Interview with Mark Ryan McNeilly, Owner of Mark Ryan Winery

Interview with Mark Ryan McNeilly, Owner of Mark Ryan Winery

One of the truly iconic names in Washington wine, Mark Ryan McNeilly is a largely self-taught winemaker who founded Mark Ryan winery in 1999. Mark focused on constant study and learning from some of the best winemakers in the state.The first few vintages were actually made in garages and it wasn’t until 2003 that Mark Ryan settled in Woodinville. Mark sources from some of the best vineyards in the state and has gained a nationwide reputation for rich, voluptuous reds. He also makes some killer white wines and great Pinot Noir from Oregon in his Megan Anne Cellars project. I think you will really enjoy learning his story in wine. Here is my feature on Mark Ryan 

WWB: How did you first become interested in wine?

MR: Well, basically I flunked out of college and was waiting tables and bartending. I was very interested in wine, and being a curious person by nature, I did a ton of research. I completely immersed myself and learned all I could about the entire wine making process. Then I started selling wine wholesale where I got great sales experience, deepened my knowledge of wine, and developed my palate. I was hooked, and decided to turn my hobby into a business. The first few vintages I produced out of garages of friends. I was selling wine for Unique by day, waiting tables at Yarrow Bay Grill in the evenings, and making wine every chance I got. This was 1999 and there weren’t the great local wine education programs like we have now. I did take a few courses down at UC Davis, and devoured books, but a lot of my education came from conversations with established winemakers and growers. I spent about 18 months as the national sales rep for Matthew Cellars, and was constantly chatting up their winemaker, Mike Januik. Chris Upchurch of DeLille Cellars was also very generous with sharing information and his time. Jim Holmes who owned Ciel du Cheval Vineyards was making wine for Kiona, and was my go-to for winemaking theory and any problems I was having during fermentation. Having access to these guys was amazing, and a truly one-of-a-kind education.

WWB: Can you talk about your decision to start Megan Anne Cellars? Talk about your new release wine, the 2016 Megan Anne Cellars Pinot Noir?

MR: In 2006 we started making a Pinot Noir for Mark Ryan with grapes were sourced from Lachini Vineyards in the Chehalem Mountains. My wife, Megan, and I love the area and spend it a lot of time there on wine business and for fun, we even got married in the Willamette Valley! In 2014 we were introduced to Isabelle Meunier who was leaving Evening Land and hired her as a winemaker—and Megan Anne Cellars was born. Isabelle makes the wines and Megan and I are involved as much as we can be from Washington. Isabelle is great at interpreting our stylistic vision and is fully in charge of the nuts and bolts of winemaking in Oregon. My full attention is on Mark Ryan and Board Track Racer. I am all about creating talented teams and forming partnerships. Mike MacMorran, formerly of DeLille Cellars, has been a part of the Mark Ryan wine program for years. Mike’s winemaking team and our vineyard partners work really hard to see that we have access to the best fruit. We have great winemaking teams and everything we do at Mark Ryan, Board Track Racer, and Megan Anne Cellars is a team effort.

WWB: What can we expect from your new brand, Board Track Racer?

MR: The first Board Track Racer vintage was actually in 2008, but we did open a Board Track Racer tasting room this year! Making ultra-premium wines for Mark Ryan it was important to me to have a declassifying program too. I wanted to make some wines that were a bit less serious. I wanted BTR to be more fun. I love motorcycles and I don’t know if wine and motorcycles necessarily go together but it works for me. We started out making The Vincent Red and we now have five wines all based on vintage motorcycles. Now it’s not really a declassified program but more a purposeful program. We are able to offer wines to a wide range of consumer. I come from a wine sales background and sold everything from $4 wines to $300 wines. I understand that a $60 Cabernet from Mark Ryan is not for everyone. But I love the opportunity to engage everyone at all pricepoints, and BTR is a great introduction to our brand. These are wines that are fun to be around and sometimes more approachable upon release.

WWB: A lot of your acclaim has been with the red wines like the 'Dead Horse' Cabernet Sauvignon but your white wines have been exceptional. Can you talk about the new 2017 Viognier?

MR: We have a lot of space in our new production facility in Walla Walla. Our approach was very similar with the 2017, but we were better able to achieve greatness with our larger space and the talented labor pool in Walla Walla. The 2017 Viognier was made with grapes from Olsen Vineyard in the Yakima Valley, where previous vintages used fruit from Red Mountain. Olsen is a great vineyard and the grapes are from a cooler site. This wine now combines Olsen with Red Willow Vineyards. We want to honor the fruit, texture, and aromatics but we went to have great acid and minerality too. I am not a fan of overripe Viognier— I like to walk that fine line between minerality and rich, peach and melon aromatics and flavors. As far as production goes, we are about 20% concrete and 50% natural French oak and then a touch of new barrels and stainless.

WWB: Can you talk about your wine cellar and some of your favorite wines of the world? 

MR: Both Megan and I are big fans of Oregon Pinot Noir. For me they are the perfect wine for enjoying with good friend. They are fruit forward wines with a nod to the structure found in Old World wines. Some of my favorite Oregon producers are Shea, Lavinea, from Isabelle Meunier, and Beaux Frères, which are expensive, but are really good! We also love white Burgundy. If I’m not drinking Washington wines, I love a good Meursault. I love great Chablis and Raveneau is a favorite producer. I have a few bottles of that in the fridge now. Dauvissat is fantastic too. I can hedge my bets when it comes to white Burgundy. The village of Cornas in the Rhône valley holds a special place in my heart. The reds being produced in Cornas and St. Joseph are fantastic.

Interview with Ryan Raber, Winemaker at Tertulia Cellars

A self-described hedonist, Ryan Raber describes his winemaking as “art.” He notes that while science is imperative in the wines, intuition, experience and trusting one’s palate is paramount in winemaking. Ryan crafts his Tertulia Cellars wines from three exciting and unique vineyard sites. I have recently visited Tertulia, as well as area vineyards, and was really impressed with the new lineup and how each wine showcases the unique terroir of each vineyard. Ryan has crafted a very strong lineup of new releases that impress from stony Marsanne to bright Rose to rich Syrah. If you haven’t had a chance to check out their new wines, the range of vineyards and terroir is absolutely worth seeking out. Thoughtful and easy to approach, Ryan has a great story in wine. He also shares my love for Domaine Tempier. Here is my interview with Ryan Raber, winemaker at Tertulia Cellars. 

WWB: How did you first get interested in winemaking? Who were your initial inspirations?

RR: I was 23 years old when I first became interested in winemaking. It was the artisan/creative aspects that interested me. I come from a family of chefs and artists on my mother’s side of the family plus my father was always building something in his woodshop. I would say it was my family that inspired me. Creating something tangible and pleasing to the senses made me think originally I would be a fine artist. I was also interested in food. I would taste something and try to recreate it. What was interesting about winemaking is you can never recreate the same wine twice. It is more like sculpting, chipping away at the pieces till the marble begins to take on a life of its own.

WWB: How do you describe your winemaking style? 

RR: I tend to make wines lower in alcohol, more old world acids and tannins. I am trying to make wines that are an expression of the land and varietals. My co-worker and friend Kristine says it best “we make elegantly approachable wines for the sophisticated palate”. We accomplish this by using tried and true old world winemaking techniques.

WWB: You produces a gorgeous 2017 Tertulia Cellars Rose (WWB, 90) that showed nice astringency and purity of fruit. Can you talk about the winemaking behind this gorgeous, stand-alone Rose?

RR: For our Rose we pick the grapes between 18-21 brixs depending on how they taste each year. I believe that is lower than most domestic Roses. This makes for bright acids and low alcohol wines. Since making our first Rose in 2007 we have cut down on the skin contact. Now we crush the grapes and go directly to press. I think having a little Tempranillo in our blend adds a little bit of astringency. Heck maybe this next vintage we will try pressing one lot with whole clusters to get a little lighter color. It’s always fun to try new things as long as it’s in moderation.

WWB: What are the challenges with making wine from three very different estate vineyards?

RR: Every vintage offers its own challenges. Having the three vineyards in different terroir means you have to really be dialed in on what is going on at each site. One vineyard may have some issues with winter damage while another might be over vigorous. Having Ryan Driver and his team is a blessing. He really knows what we want out of the vines each year and how to coax the best out of them. Each year both of us gain a little more experience and hone our craft to make better wines. My favorite things is when I taste the grapes and say, hey this block is ready can you pick tomorrow and Driver says, we can pick today if you want. Timing is everything. We are getting the grapes in at the perfect ripeness for our style of wines each vintage. We are also really lucky blocks seem to come in about every three days so we can give each lot of wine all the love they need in the cellar.

WWB: What are some of your favorite producers of wines from the Pacific Northwest and wines of the world?

RR: I really love Woodward Canyon. They make wonderful wines and have had years of experience working with the same fruit. Not to mention they are very gracious people. I was once asked early in my career, how do you get to be like Leonetti or Woodward Canyon. I said ask me again in 30 years after making great wines and having a wonderful relationship with customers just like they have. Fingers crossed I am on that path. My favorite producers in France would be Domaine Tempier in Bandol as I have found those Bandol wines to be rustic and beautiful. I also love producers in Saint Emilion. I once visited Cheval Blanc and got to taste their wine. It was a once in a life time opportunity. I felt like I was on holy ground! I may have snuck an extra taste when no one was looking.

Child's Play

Tony Rynders has his deft hand all over the Oregon wine industry. Originally modeled after drawings made from his two children, Child’s Play is an exciting side project winery by Tony Rynders that carries incredible quality for an uber-low price. Tony was former winemaker at Panther Creek and Domaine Serene, before starting his own winery, Tendril. He currently consults for roughly ten Oregon wineries. I have noticed a marked difference in quality in the lineups of several wine programs which he has taken over. His distinctive winemaking style focuses on richness, texture and elegance. 

Look to his outstanding new 2017 Child’s Play Rose (WWB, 91) which has outstanding minerality and tension with the red fruit flavors. Tony has formerly made wine in Washington state for many years and he has sourced his outstanding new Zinfandel from the Columbia Valley. The 2015 Child’s Play Zinfandel (WWB, 90) is forward, with beautiful astringency and richness. This downright delicious wine is a killer value. Learn more about this outstanding offshoot winery at https://tendrilwines.com/wines/childs-play/ Here are the great new wines by Child’s Play.

2017 Child’s Play Rose- Made from Pinot Noir grapes, this outstanding wine shows off red currant, red cherry and guava puree aromatics. Beautifully balanced and slightly sweet, this shows a dazzling minerality with bright red fruit flavors and a touch of orange rind towards the back end. Superstar winemaker Tony Rynders has absolutely nailed this Rose. Grab this by the case while you can. Drink 2018-2022- 91

2017 Child’s Play Pinot Chardonnay- A blend of 70% Pinot Noir with the remainder Chardonnay, this is a highly unique bottling by Tony Rynders. In the glass this takes shape with a combination of pear, and starfruit aromatics with a touch of baking spice. Highly refreshing and satisfying, this shows a good combination of weight and tension. Baked apple, starfruit and bright citrus rind flavors mingle nicely with the minerality. This is a seriously good value. Drink 2018-2024- 91

2015 Child's Play Zinfandel- Sourced from the Columbia Valley, the wine starts out with some lighter jammy character with red fruits and bramble following. The mouthfeel is very smooth as the wine shows some nice polish. Red cherry, red currant jelly and Hoisin sauce finish off this outstanding Zinfandel that rivals some of the great ones out of Sonoma County. Drink 2018-2024- 90

Upchurch Vineyard

Chris and Thea Upchurch are truly two of the great people in Washington wine. Their winery, Upchurch Vineyard, is a sight to be seen on Red Mountain. Modern and chic, the winery is connected to their house that looks out across the valley. I can’t think of a more gorgeous spot to taste wine in the state. Chris Upchurch is the founding winemaker and partner of DeLille Cellars. He and his wife, Thea, finally got the urge to start their own winery project which was completed in 2016. The vineyard, itself, was planted in 2007. Walking through the vineyard, I couldn’t help but notice how meticulously farmed each row was. Dick Boushey oversees the vineyard management and the vineyard looks incredible healthy and downright pristine. 

I recently visited this stunning winery and chatted with the Chris and Thea about their new wines. They have now released a knockout white wine, the 2016 Upchurch Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 93) which is truly one of the best of its kind. The texture, mouthfeel and range of this wine is truly spellbinding, as Chris has absolutely nailed this white wine which walks the tight rope between refreshing and unctuous. Learn more about this outstanding winery at https://upchurchvineyard.com Here are the outstanding new releases by Upchurch Vineyard.

2015 Upchurch Vineyards ‘Counterpart’ Red Wine- A compelling blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine was entirely sourced from the Upchurch Estate Vineyard in Red Mountain. The hedonistic nose starts this wine off with creme de cassis, leather, red currant and mocha. The combination of poise and balance is really lovely here. Black tea, mocha, creme de cassis and sagebrush flavors connect with a nice tension. This is an impressive effort by superstar winemaker Chris Upchurch. Drink 2018-2028- 93

2016 Upchurch Vineyard ‘Southwest Facing’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2016 Upchurch Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc is truly one of the best of its kind in Washington. On the nose, the wine brings out an exotic edge with poached pear, apricot and lighter grassy tones. The palate has an oily texture and a wonderfully rich mouthfeel. Kumquat, cut grass, kiwi and bright Gravenstein apple flavors come to mind. Layered and downright delicious, be sure to enjoy this at a slightly warmer temperature where the wine shows its gorgeous range in its entirety. Drink 2018-2028- 93

Interview with Drew Bledsoe, Owner of Doubleback Winery

A man requiring no introduction, NFL legend, Drew Bledsoe, took his success on the playing field into fielding his own winery. Since starting Doubleback roughly a decade ago he has taken the Washington wine scene by storm. A few days ago I had the chance to visit his gorgeous new winery in Walla Walla. Drew is a fun-loving, down to earth guy that is an absolute blast to chat wine with. Originally from Walla Walla, Drew ‘doubled back’ following his successful career as an NFL quarterback and started his winery, Doubleback. With superstar winemaker, Josh McDaniels, at the winemaking helm, he has achieved some remarkable success as all of his wines sell out extremely quickly. I think you will really enjoy hearing more about Drew’s story in wine. Here is my exclusive interview with Drew Bledsoe, NFL legend and owner of Doubleback winery. 

WWB: How did you first get into wine?

DB: I got into wine the way that most pepole do. Once we had saved some money my teammates and I started going to dinner and realizing how interesting wine was. The more I learned about wine the more interesting it became. I started collecting wine from all over the world. I got very intrigued by Italian wines and also Australian wines. My interests spanned the globe. Then I had a phase where I was really interested in Napa wines.  After time I looked for wines that displayed more balance and were not super extracted. That brought us back to wines from Walla Walla. We had a great group of teammates when I was playing for New England that were all getting into wine. Damon Huard, Mike Vrabel, Ted Johnson and Teddy Bruschi all loved wines and wanted to learn about wines of the world. We started regularly opening wines from all over the world and blinding them. I would have a lot of teammates coming over and we would do blind tasting Cabernets from California vs Washington and wine from Washington would always win. That is where the seed was planted as I started thinking that that maybe after football is done I would go back to Walla Walla and make wine a carer. 

WWB: How did you get to know Josh McDaniels?

DB: Chris Figgins of Leonetti Cellar was our consulting winemaker at Doubleback for several years. At Leonetti Josh McDaniels was working for Chris. As time went on I knew that Chris was going to move on and pursue his own projects. We had slowly started the process in place for Josh to take over as lead winemaker. Pretty soon it became apparent that Josh was able to take over the whole thing himself. The time came and we made the chance and it has been off to the races since then. I had tried Leonetti for many years and Josh was involved in every vintage of Doubleback. Once we moved out to the wine studio at Leonetti Josh was intimately involved in all the wines so it was not a big step for him to take over all the winemaking. 

WWB: How does your NFL success translate into success in the wine industry?

DB: There are a few things that made it important to me that our business and story was not about the football guy. We wanted the focus to be about a small town kid that came back home and had some success. Doubleback is an authentic, real project. The winery is not a passing interest or hobby for me but it is something we are really serious about. We didn’t want to place Bledsoe on the bottle. That is where the name Doubleback comes from, doubling back and coming home. In terms of translating football into business it has been amazing to me how similar football and wine can be. The wine education that I have received since I have been in the business, particularly from Chris Figgins, Greg Harrington, Josh McDaniels and these people that have helped me have been vital. The day to day operations of the wine business shares a lot of similarities with footballl, Themes like teamwork, perseverance, adaptation, and a competitive spirit all provide important influences in both football and wine. Drive and competition really never leaves you once you leave the NFL. The wine business competition is a different kind of competition. Obviously the wine industry doesn’t require that we beat someone so it benefits us if we are helping our neighbor and trying to be great. We are always marketing all of Walla Walla when we are marketing our wines. We aren’t knocking the other guy down we are simply helping share and influence how great Walla Walla wines can be.

WWB: What are some of the most memorable wines that you have tried across your lifetime?

DB: There are a few wine experiences that jump out for me. One of them, surprisingly, was a Napa wine, the 1998 Viader Red Wine which was cool for a few reasons. 1998 was a hard vintage in Napa from critics but I have noticed something that has held true for a long time that the so called bad vintages have great wine from great producers. That was the case with this wine. A lot of Cab Franc was in the wine and that is one of the Bordeaux varietals that was really memorable. One of the epiphany wines that I had unfortunately I wasn’t able to find out what was in the glass. I was in a restaurant in Buffalo, New York, and enjoying myself. There was a guy having dinner in the restaurant who knew that I liked wine and he handed me a glass of something, dropped it off, and then was gone. The wine was a great Burgundy and it was ethereal and proved to be an unbelievable experience. It was almost like you were drinking air how silky smooth this wine was and I was absolutely blown away. Another memorable wine that I enjoyed took place during a dinner with the Golitzins from Quilceda Creek and Alex brought a bottle of 1998 Chateau Lafitte-Rothchild. This was a wine that was really that good, amazing wine and actually lived up to the price of the wine. The 1961 Barolo, Coterno, probably holds the title of the best wine that I have had. It is really hard to describe this wine but I noticed that there was just so much going as everything was in perfect harmony. Too me that was what defines a great wine. There was tremendous complexity and balance. That is what Josh has going here, wines that have great balance but complexity at the same time.

Interview with Joe D'Angelo, Executive Editor of International Wine Report

Continuing our Interview Week coverage here at WWB, many of you know that I write for International Wine Report, covering Washington, Oregon and portions of California. I first met Joe D’Angelo, founder of International Wine Report, in 2015. Joe’s history in wine goes way back to his childhood, growing up in an Italian-American family. His wine education continued into young adulthood and in 2004 the New Jersey native launched TheWine-Insider.com.  With the success of this publication, Joe found the need to expand in order to a cover a larger audience — which marked beginning of what is now known as the International Wine Report.  In 2009, Joe began his new platform designed to meet the demands of an international audience, writing independent reviews and covering wines from all regions around the world, mainly focusing on the wines of Italy, United States, France as well as Germany and South Africa. Joe also continues to travel to Italy, France and California to taste and discover new wines. I think you will really enjoying hearing Joe’s story in wine. Follow him on Instagram.  Here is my interview with Joe D’Angelo, executive editor of International Wine Report.

WWB: How did you first become interested in wine?

JD: I wish I could just give you a specific date, but I’ve had an interest in wine for as long as I can recall. I can remember times at family gatherings, before I was even the legal age to consume alcohol, watching my relatives drinking and talking about wine around the table, I would be sitting there in awe, just wishing I could take part. Finally, when I became old enough to drink, I was able take part in these discussions. I can recall drinking some older Italian wines, Barolo and Amarone and an ’82 Leoville Las Cases which stands out. At the time I didn’t really know much about it, other than it was Bordeaux, expensive and pretty damn good. This was one of the earliest specific wines I can recall and it really began to peak my interest on the subject. However, it didn’t last long, I was still young, was more interested in having fun socially with friends, rather than discovering the newest vintage of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Nonetheless, I would still find time to enjoy wine at dinners etc, but it wast until a few years later that I settled down and the wine bug took over.   

As time passed, I continued to taste wines from all over the world and the more I tasted these different wines the more interested I became. I would travel, read magazines, books and anything else I could do to learn a thing or two. I began to write all my tasting notes down in a notebook, but quickly realized I need a better place to document all this. Long story short, with a background in IT, I came up with a platform to store my documentation on all the wines I was tasting, and this was essentially the beginning of the International Wine Report. 

WWB: How did you decide to start International Wine Report?

JD: Honestly, IWR was not something I intentionally started. As mentioned earlier, I need a place to document the wines I was drinking, and with a background in IT, I came up with a website to document all my tasting notes and called it “The Wine-Insider”.  Slowly but surely this this started to gain recognition and through analytics etc, I noticed people visiting the site and reading the reviews. I realized I had something quite interesting happening, and decided I could do even more with this. Around 2010, I developed a totally new plan, this time with an audience in mind which needed a more robust platform, and I called it The International Wine Report. 

WWB: You provide some extensive coverage of some of the sought after regions of Italy, including Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino. Can you talk about what you look for in a great Barolo and Brunello and how you typically come to your conclusions when reviewing those great regions?

JD: Growing up in an Italian household I’ve always had a love for all things Italian, wine being one. I’ve been tasting Barolo and Brunello for quite some time now, and the wines are some of my favorite to taste as well as collect. Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, although completely different, can share some similarities between the two. Many have even confused the two in blind tastings, I can't deny myself being one. That being said, a lot of the characteristics I look for in a young Nebbiolo or Sangiovese are pretty similar. When tasting the wines young upon release you can typically get a better picture from young Brunello, since it is a bit more evolved, being that wine requires a minimum of 5 years age and  6 years for the Riserva’s before release, you don’t get that luxury when tasting Barolo. A young Barolo can be released sooner after harvest and the wines can be more restraint at this early stage. While there are different qualities I look for between the two wines, the core components are pretty basic, quality of fruit, structure and acidity. I believe these are the essential components of a well-made, age worthy wine. 

WWB: You’ve been working hard on your Napa Report covering the 2015 Vintage. What are some of the producers that we should watch out for?

JD: I have, and will continue to spend a great deal of time on this Napa report. Starting with the 2015 vintage I plan on putting much more focus on Napa Valley, and this report will be the most comprehensive IWR has ever released on Napa. I have been tasting some incredible wines from the vintage and there is no shortage of great wines, most all which are already drinking remarkably well. That being said, I still have quite a few wines waiting to be tasted, but there are so many producers making great wines from the vintage, and generally speaking, the wines have been pretty stellar across the board. I think they will be great for drinking early while waiting for the 2016’s. I look forward to releasing the full report on the 2015’s this Fall.

WWB: What are some of your epiphany wines and what is your wine cellar like?

JD: As far as my cellar, over the years I worked on building a pretty diverse collection, which is now somewhere around 2-3K bottles give or take. My collection is a litter younger than most other collections out there, that being because all the wines I had purchased earlier in life, which would now be 15-20+ years in age, were all used to develop my palate. Although, I certainly wish I still had them, the benefit of tasting them and developing a strong palate for all varietals was priceless and without doing so IWR would likely not exist today.

I enjoy drinking wines from anywhere in the world and my cellar reflects that, you can find just about anything in there if you did deep enough. My favorite wines to drink older are Bordeaux, Burgundy, Napa, Barolo and Rhône, so that is what I have been focusing on collecting lately. As far as an epiphany wine... Of course, there is the '82 Las Cases which I can remember like yesterday, and at the time completely changed the way I looked at wine. However, my fondest memories involving wine were the experiences I had; who I was with, where I was at, the specific moments in my life, and the people I met along the way. For me that is what wine is really all about. 

Interview with Mary Derby, Founder and Winemaker of DAMA Wines

Continuing our journey through Interview Week here at WWB we bring you one of the pioneer woman winemakers in Washington. Mary Derby has nearly two decades of experience in the Washington wine industry. Mary has endured everything from incredible business success to personal tragedy, losing her husband many years ago. Her winery, DAMA, located in downtown Walla Walla, crafts a very serious lineup of wines, from Rose to Merlot. Mary is an outstanding winemaker and a downright awesome person to chat wine with. I think you will enjoy hearing more about her history in the wine industry. Here is my interview with Mary Derby, Winemaker and Owner of DAMA Wines.  

WWB: You have a longstanding history in the Washington wine industry, starting Spring Valley Vineyards (SVV) in 2000 and later DAMA years later. How have you seen the Washington wine industry evolve over the past 18 years?

MD: Lordy, did you really have to put a number to my Walla Walla years? Yes, you are correct .. it will be 18 years this Fall and I only know that since my son Simon is turning 18 in September and we had moved here when he was a month old!  Though, I do remember that day like it was yesterday. And that certainly is the case for those first four years of our time here in Walla Walla. How have I seen the industry change? Well I can't speak about the change unless I speak of what it was like back in the early days between 2000-2004 (my SVV time with Devin) all I can really say is that it was very special. Those first years were very special and are very near and dear to my heart.  I look back and it is hard to imagine that we were so young ..not necessarily in age but within our ideals, within our naivete' in understanding the business of it all. I'm not sure any of us understood the grand possibilities that were heading our way. I guess Christophe & Charles knew what was to come. You have to understand that at that time there was no Walla Walla Enology Progam and so many of us just learned along the way — through the school of hard knocks. But what we did do is lean on each other, so we shared whatever information & knowledge and passed on our intimate passions on how we believed in our wines, in our valley and our brands. Though we were not the true pioneers of WWV we were the new generation with different ideas of what we thought we could create here. 

During those first few years between 2000-2008 there really was not too many women winemakers...I can only think of a handful. So looking around today I see so many more women going through the program and working in the production side to becoming full on winemakers. A couple of years ago, I began the process of creating the Walla Walla Women in Wine Calendar and it was so wonderful to see that we could fill up 12 months! It's an exciting time in this industry for all of us!  But then again it is still a quiet challenge for us women in the industry. We do not portray ourselves as the public  "rock star" winemaker that many of our male colleague do and if we ever did go that direction I do believe we would get nailed for it...so the double standards have been there but perhaps they are not as prevalent today. And perhaps that is a whole other topic that could be discussed with a group of women who are in the industry. 

WWB: What changes have you seen in the Walla Walla Valley? 

MD: My generation of winemakers have all grown up and with that growth there comes an inherent knowledge that we can no longer be what we once were. We have made it through the lean years, the freeze years, wondering why I planted what I did. There were many years where I missed the hell out of my husband, Devin, and there have been many years where I have missed my friend, Eric Dunham. Those first years starting SVV (Spring Valley Vineyards) were beautiful early days. But now I love what the Walla Walla Valley has become which is a major wine force in the wine industry. I finally no longer hear ‘What side of the Potomac are you on’? It is just crazy how long I would hear that. I am so very proud of where we are and so very excited to for the growth to come. There is such a wonderful strength & unity to the Walla Walla Valley that has shined on through the years and will continue to do so. 

WWB: How do you see Walla Walla evolving in the future?

MD: Change…you really never want it to happen but it is constantly happening all around you! Our little sleepy village in 2000 is now a very active prospering one! There is so much growth and big money coming in that at times I do worry about what will happen to the overall feel of the town. Are we really ready for the changes that seem to be in our future? Who knows? But I do think Walla Walla will always maintain it's small town atmosphere where life's pace is just a bit slower and we who have been here for a while embrace that to no end! 

WWB: Your DAMA lineup is fantastic across the board, including a bright, dazzling 2017 Rose that has both poise, weight and range. What is your philosophy when crafting your Rose wine?

MD: Thank you for acknowledging my wines. It's been a long and arduous road of fine-tuning the wines and vineyards that we deal with and as well as re-working the brand/logo. In regard to my Rose' I feel extremely proud and am very passionate on trying to create a wine that can be taken seriously. Years ago when Devin and I were traveling in the Loire Valley I feel in love with Cab Franc and especially the Roses. . I loved the richness and the acidity that were a part of these wines. So now 20 years later I have found CF through the Chelle den Millie Vineyard that I believe creates a non nonsense wine. The CF from these particular rows have been trained and cropped to allow longer hang time which in turn creates amazing flavors and characteristics. Believe me, it is always a moment or two of questioning the hang time duration but I have found more success in being patient. We usually always schedule a predawn picking time ( machine harvested) and it's lightly crushed at this time. It takes about 2 hours to get back to Artifex where we will let it cold soak for another hour or so and then it gets pressed and in tank. I have experimented with a couple of yeasts that help bring out the floral aspects of the wine and I really think this year we hit the mark! 

WWB: As a winemaker you have a strong handle on a great red wine portfolio. These wines have wonderful richness and tension in the glass. When creating Bordeaux style reds, how do you describe your winemaking style?

MD: I guess when I start to analyze my idea of what I ultimately want in my bottle as a DAMA Wines. I try to stay as true to the varietal as possible without having to manipulate too much along the way. My relationship with the vineyards & managers have only improved over the last couple of years so hopefully my wines have reflected that hard work that is done during the growing season. Personally, I love to keep a "soft" touch if you will on my wines and that means a few different things...not overly & aggressively pressing the grapes to using less new oak at times to making sure they are in good balance. Perhaps, my style all stems from my years of training as an opera singer. You learn to pay attention to the nuances, the subtleties, the highs and the lows to ultimately keep the vibration of the voice moving even after you have stopped singing...in Italian it's called scquillo...and that is what I want in my wines. 

WWB: What are some of your favorite wines of the world and some recent wines that you have enjoyed:

MD: I am so bad with remembering what I drank the other day let alone last week or month!  But my summer love right now is JF's sauvignon blanc! It's reminiscent of the late Didier Dagineau's wines....

Interview with Chris Zarcadoolas, Head Sommelier at Stripsteak in Miami

Friends, today marks the beginning of Interview Week here at Washington Wine Blog as we will focus on some very exciting new wine industry interviews. A few weeks back I had the great opportunity to try some of the great Michael Mina restaurants, Stripsteak and Pizza & Burger in Miami. Set at the vibrant Fountainbleu hotel, the restaurant has a house DJ and Vegas style atmosphere. Stripsteak, like the name suggests, focuses on fantastic aged beef and also boasts a very deep wine cellar, manned by Chris Zarcadoolas. Chris has an advanced sommelier certification from the Court of Master Sommeliers and is currently working towards his Master Somm. He had the chance to pour me some truly outstanding wines including a 2006 Veuve Cliquot ‘La Grand Dame’ Champagne and the epic 2007 Chave Hermitage. I recently sat down with him and talked wine. I think you are going to very much enjoy hearing about his story. Here is my interview with Chris Zarcadoolas, Head Sommelier at Stripsteak, Miami.

WWB: How did you decide to become a sommelier?

CZ: Deciding to become a sommelier was fairly organic. I worked as a bartender in college. I became restless and moved to San Francisco in my early 20s. I was terrified at the prospect of learning wine, but found a nurturing environment in the Bay Area. I slowly gained confidence and alternated between operating my own business and working in hospitality as a server and bartender. Even when I was self-employed, I found myself sourcing and shipping some of the more popular California wines over to business associates in Japan. Gradually as I grew in the hospitality industry, my passion for geology, meteorology, history, and food truly made wine a fated occupation.  

WWB: Who were your first inspirations in wine?

CZ: There are two gentlemen who really recognized some kind of fire in me and helped give me that nudge. I met them both working in Atlanta. Sam Governale, who I believe has a restaurant in his hometown of Houston, and Skip Williams, who last I heard had a wine and crystal shop in Atlanta. I have not spoken to them in years, but remain grateful. I am fortunate enough to have had some amazing mentors/bosses throughout the years; Barb Werley MS at Pappas Bros Dallas (whom I adore), David Mokha (former boss and general wine gangster in Miami), and beverage director of Wolfgang Puck Tim Wilson (one of the all-time best).

WWB: You have achieved the coveted advanced sommelier certification through the Court of Master Sommeliers. Can you talk about the most challenging part of passing the exam for you?

CZ: I’ve always found the most challenging part of the Court exams the “conquering of self”. It seems like all of the garbage that we are holding onto, all of our insecurities, and personality defects come bubbling to the surface as we prepare and test for these already challenging exams. I think once we conquer that aspect, we are ready to know our shortcomings and prepare adequately.

WWB: How difficult was the tasting portion of the exam for you?

CZ: The first time I took the Advanced, my tasting was a disaster. I simply was not in command of the grid enough to flow through the process. The deductive tasting grid  is a proven method for discerning wine. We need to be “all-in” with the process for it to work. Once I understood that, I focused on two things; mastering the grid, and theory. If we know the theory, and we are comfortable with the grid, the wine will speak to us.

WWB: As the lead sommelier at one of Miami’s hottest restaurants, Michael Mina’s Stripsteak, you have carefully crafted a fantastic glass pour selection, including several top selections on Coravin. What are some of your favorite top wines and value selections on your list?

CZ: It’s hard to choose, but as far as top wines, I love the 2013 de Montille Vosne Romanee aux Malconsorts Christiane. Christiane is a block that is literally embraced by La Tache. It is transcendent and has a special history within my own life. If I had to choose just one more, it would be the 2006 Conterno Monfortino. I love 06 Barolo, and I love them when everyone else says that they are too young. Give me austere and tannic wine, and I am happy. As far as value wine, I could stay in Iberia. I have a 2002 Bierzo from Alejandro Luna which sees new French oak and is just mind bendingly beautiful. It has freshness, old world sensibility, and a cleanliness that just shines. It is $205, but for a wine with that age and rarity, I consider it a value. We also have a Ribera del Duero from Arrocal for $50. It is everything you want from a Ribera; power, fruit, oak, acid and tannis, but at that price. The family that produces it is amazing as well. A wine I sold in the past that I currently do not have, merits a place on the list; Quinta dos Roques Touriga Nacional 2003 from the Dao in Portugal. A true stunner for approximately $75.

WWB: Do you have any atypical pairings that you like for cuts of steak?

CZ: Absolutely, I think “steak whites” are lost on a lot of consumers. I have sold a Soave Classico with 10 years of age with a Filet Oscar and it sung. A Chateaunuef du Pape Blanc with age and a hearty amount of Grenache Blanc and/or Roussane can take on the likes of Ribeye or even A5, due to the alcohol and glycerol levels. For Red, give me a young Xinomavro with a strip and I’m good.

WWB: What are some of your favorite new wines of the world that you’ve enjoyed in 2018?

CZ: The wines from Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico are wines that both inspire my intellect and awaken my inner child. They are so curious, yet make so much sense. When you look at a bottle, and the blend is 50% Nebbiolo and 50% Tempranillo, your inner child can’t help but dance with curiosity. When you experience the wine, it makes absolute sense why it is fantastic.

International Pinot Noir Celebration 2018

Friends, as we bid a fond farewell to another fantastic Oregon Wine Month, I wanted to share one of the highlights of the Pacific Northwest wine scene. This summer the International Pinot Noir Celebration (IPNC) comes to Linfield College from Friday July 27th to Sunday June 29th. Over 70 world class Pinot Noir producers will be participating, from Austria to Alsace to Oregon. Some of the top Oregon Pinot Noir producers that I have reviewed for Washington Wine Blog and International Wine Report will be there pouring their great Pinot Noir releases. This not to be missed event includes a very special presentation called the Grand Seminar which is an Oregon Pinot Noir vineyard comparison. 

This year’s presentation is a great face-off between an Eola-Amity Hills Vineyard and a Dundee Hills Vineyard and the great winemakers that work with these special vineyards. Famed wineries such as Bergstom, Water Scott, Belle Pente, and Penner Ash will present their 2016 Pinot Noirs, sourced either from the Eola-Amity Hills AVA based Temperance Hill Vineyard  or the Dundee Hills AVA based Bella Vida Vineyard. 

Comparing these terroir from a great vintage will be a great opportunity to see into the new vintage and how different the wines can be. I have personally long loved this Oregon Pinot Noir comparison, which typically outlines a more feminine profile of Eola-Amity Hills wines with the darker, unmistakably more masculine profile of wines from the Dundee Hills. The panel provide a fabulous comparison of the wines, moderated by famed wine writer Elaine Brown, and includes panelists Josh Bergstrom (Bergstrom), Julia Cattrall (Lumos Wine Co. ), Brian O’Donnell (Belle Pente), Ken Pahlow (Walter Scott), Lynn Penner-Ash (Penner-Ash) and Patrick Reuter (Domino IV) who will present their exciting new Pinot Noirs. 

The winemakers are very excited for this special event, as talented Bergstrom winemaker, Josh Bergstrom, explained “I am very excited for the IPNC grand seminar as it touches on the exploration of community and terroir in the Willamette Valley.” Josh continued “Temperance Hill is one of the first vineyard designated Pinot Noirs that I ever tasted as a 21 year old working as a line chef at Tina’s Restaurant in Dundee, Oregon. Now 22 years later to be able to be a producer of wine from this heritage site is a full circle moment for me and I am proud to sit on stage with some of Oregon’s finest farmers and winemakers.”

Similar excitement comes from eminent Belle Pente winemaker, Brian O’ Donnell, who mentioned “The grand seminar is one of the classic matches — land vs the hand of the winemaker. It is a truly great platform to have discussions about so many different aspects of Oregon Pinot Noir. You really have a chance to understand the context of the wine from the site, the vintage and the winemaker.” The weekend closes with a big tasting event, the Passport to Pinot, Oregon’s largest international tasting of Pinot Noir. This event includes 35 featured winemakers and special food selections crafted by 15 Pacific Northwest chefs. Do not miss this special summer wine event. 

Chehalem

Focused on high quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the Ribbon Ridge AVA in the Willamette Valley, Chehalem is one of the pioneering wineries of Oregon, first planting their Ridgecrest Vineyard in 1980 by Chehalem Founder Harry Peterson-Nedry. March forward a decade later, their first Pinot Noir was created. Three years later Bill Stoller joined Harry in the winery operation and later planted a vineyard on his family farmlands at the southern end of the Dundee Hills. Two years later Chehalem purchased Corral Creek, the vineyard surrounding the winery, in 1995. It became the third estate vineyard sourced for Chehalem wines.

Earlier this year Bill Stoller purchased Harry’s stake in Chehalem. The new wines by Chehalem had marvelous finesse and tension. One of the top Rose wines out of Oregon, the 2017 Chehalem ‘Three Vineyard’ Rose (WWB, 90) sources from all three estate vineyards. This delightful wine is a serious, stand alone Rose that displays a dazzling minerality.  Even better was the 2015 Chehalem ‘Three Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 91) which shows wonderful earthy and citrus notes and is downright delicious in the glass. Learn more about this great historic Oregon winery at chehalemwines.com Here are the great new release wines by Chehalem. 

2017 Chehalem ‘Three Vineyard’ Rose- This outstanding wine shows a feminine streak. Red cherry, red currant and watermelon flavors beautifully mingle with bright acidity. The mouthfeel is excellent here. Drink 2018-2022- 90

2016 Chehalem ‘Inox’ Chardonnay- This light colored Chardonnay starts off with brioche, pear and starfruit on the nose. This shows fantastic length, richness and minerality. Roasted pineapple, vanilla cream and poached pear flavors impress. Drink 2018-2024- 91

2015 Chehalem ‘Three Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This deep colored Pinot Noir begins with bright aromas of red currant, sandalwood and forest floor with a touch of blood orange. The palate his deep and lithe, showing a nice range of red fruits with citrus overtones. Delicious, with good acidity, this will cellar well into the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 91

Alloro Vineyard

A gorgeous property set in the Chehalem Mountains, Alloro Vineyard was first planted in 1999. The vineyard itself is a 34-acre parcel planted to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, and Muscat set on a west-to-east southern aspect on deep, wind-blown loess topsoil over decomposed basalt at 450 –700 feet. The wines from this site are terroir driven and have wonderful earthy character. David Nemarnik serves as vineyard manager and Alloro CEO while Tom Fitzpatrick serves as winemaker. Tom has an master’s degree in enology and viticulture degree from the esteemed UC Davis and has worked winemaking positions across the globe, from California and New Zealand, to Burgundy and Oregon. 

HIs new release wines were seriously good across the board. Look to their 2014 Alloro Vineyard ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 92) which shows remarkable depth and concentration while maintaining a silky texture. This outstanding offering and very good value Pinot Noir will cellar well for a decade or more. Alloro is open year-round from Thursday to Monday. Learn more about this great winery at https://www.allorovineyard.com Here are the great new wines by Alloro Vineyard. 

2015 Alloro Vineyard Chardonnay- Nutmeg and hazelnut flavors connect with peach on the nose. There is good weight and minerality to this wine. Pazzaz apple, starfruit and creme brûlée flavors impress. Enjoy this over the next five to ten years. Drink 2018-2028- 90

2014 Alloro Vineyard ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Chehalem Mountain AVA, the wine starts off with aromas of wet rock, peat moss and wild blackberry. The mouthfeel here is really excellent. Black tea, blackberry pie and forest floor flavors connect with a lovey weight and tension. Enjoy this outstanding wine over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 92

2014 Alloro Vineyard ‘Riservata’ Pinot Noir- This barrel select Pinot Noir begins with aromatics reminiscent of cinnamon stick, forest floor, black tea and loganberry. The wine has a marvelous mouthfeel, revealing black tea, peat moss and orange rind flavors, showing some really good range. This is an outstanding release by Alloro Vineyard.  Drink 2018-2028- 92

Gran Moraine

Happy Memorial Day to you all. This is a great time to reflect on the brave men and women that have served our country and to remember all of those who have come and gone throughout our lives. 

Nearing the end of Oregon Wine Month we bring you one of the stars of the Willamette Valley. Gran Moraine is named after the cataclysmic floods that occurred in the northern Willamette Valley of Oregon during the last ice age. As the flood waters receded, they impacted the region, leaving small indentations or mini valleys (moraines), similar to those in the the Côte ’Or in Burgundy. Located in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, Gran Moraine has 220 acres planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Winemaker Shane Moore is an Idaho native and crafts some outstanding rereleases for Gran Moraine. He has a bachelor of science in enology and viticulture from Washington State University and previously spent three years gaining international winemaking experience in Canada, Western Australia and Israel’s Golan Heights. In 2011 Shane began working for Jackson Family Wines winemaking team as an enologist, crafting cool climate California Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Shane helped build the Gran Moraine winemaking team and was named winemaker in 2016. HIs new releases were truly outstanding across the board. One of the best Rose wines out of Oregon in my 2018 Rose Report, the 2017 Gran Moraine Rose (WWB, 92) is a stunner, showing an amazing range of flavors and aromatics, displaying a wonderful mouthfeel and long finish. This is a wine not to be missed. Even better is their new Pinot Noir release, the 2015 Gran Moraine ‘Yamhill-Carlton’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) which has everything you want in a great Oregon Pinot Noir, which incredible depth and acidity. Learn more about this fantastic winery at https://www.granmoraine.com Here are the great new releases by Gran Moraine. 

2017 Gran Moraine Rose- This limited release Rose is a striking effort from this estate. Made from Pinot Noir grapes, this starts off with wild mushroom, red cherry and guava on the nose. The palate reveals a silky texture, leading to ripe strawberry, guava and cran-raspberry flavors. Crisp and delightful for a hot summer day, this outstanding effort shows both lovely poise, elegance and weight from this exciting vintage in the Willamette Valley. Drink 2018-2024- 92

2015 Gran Moraine ‘Yamhill-Carlton’ Chardonnay- The nutty character on the nose mingles nicely with Challah bread and lemon cream. The palate shows a lean, mineral driven edge, with good structure and lighter cantaloupe and Pink Lady apple flavors. This elegant wine finishes long with vanilla cream. Drink 2018-2026- 91

2015 Gran Moraine ‘Yamhill-Carlton’ Pinot Noir- The deeply seductive nose entices with forest floor, fennel, red cherry preserves and teaberry aromatics. The palate shows wonderful weight, tension and minerality. The mouth-watering acidity brings you back to the glass for more. Elegant, yet showing the warmth of the vintage, this is a simply outstanding wine that will cellar well for the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2018-2033- 93

Raptor Ridge

Continuing our great journey through Oregon Wine Month, we bring you one of the historic Oregon wineries. Raptor Ridge was founded in 1995 and almost immediately gained national acclaim for their Pinot Noirs. Founder and co-winemaker, Scott Shull, first started making terroir driven wines in 1995. Originally from Missouri, Scott is a self-taught winemaker, having learned by doing, reading, and attending extension service courses on viticulture and enology offered by U.C. Davis and Oregon State University.

Shannon Gustafson, combines with Scott Shull to make a great team. Shannon has been making wine out of her hometown of Paso Robles, CA for the past fourteen years. Having previously worked harvests in McLaren Vale, Shannon worked as winemaker for Hawks View winery in Oregon prior to coming to Raptor Ridge. The new releases were gorgeous across the board. One of the great Oregon Rose wines that I sampled in my 2018 Rose Report, the 2017 Raptor Ridge Rose (WWB, 90) shows really good poise and range. This is a downright delicious Rose that is impossible to resist. Even better is the stunning 2015 Raptor Ridge ‘Shea Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 92) which has everything you want from a great Shea Vineyard bottling. Deep and dark, yet earthy, this is a gorgeous wine that will cellar at least for another decade. Learn more about this fantastic historic Oregon winery at http://www.raptorridgewinery.com Here are the great new releases by Raptor Ridge. 

2017 Raptor Ridge Rose- This Rose was actually barrel fermented for a short time. The nose has cantaloupe with wild mushroom and red fruits. Really good acidity marks the mid-palate as the silky smooth mouthfeel impresses. Candied raspberry, guava and red cherry flavors persist. This is an outstanding effort by Raptor Ridge. Drink 2018-2022- 90

2016 Raptor Ridge ‘Gran Moraine Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from one of the great vineyards in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, the wine begins with intense aromas of brioche and creme brûlée with lemon zest. The palate is rich as the wine improves when enjoyed at a warmer temperature. Vanilla creme brulee, Meyer lemon meringue and poached pear mark this delicious effort. Drink 2018-2024- 91

2015 Raptor Ridge ‘Shea Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This deep colored wine starts off with smoke, black truffle and black cherry compote on the nose. The weight and minerlality to this wine is outstanding. Black tea, black cherry and wild blackberry cobbler flavors impress. There is almost a dash of milk chocolate on the finish. Burly, considering the AVA, this wine impresses in a hot vintage. Drink 2018-2028- 92

Stag Hollow

Highlighting a wonderful boutique winery in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, Stag Hollow was founded by Mark Huff and Jill Zarnowitz. I have long been an admirer of these great wines, sourced from their estate vineyard. These are truly some great people in Oregon wine. Mark Huff serves as winemaker and vineyard manager, while Jill takes care of the rest of the winery. The 34 acre vineyard is planted on a steep, southwest facing slope. There are currently, nine clones (cultivars) of Pinot Noir planted as well as Chardonnay, Muscat Ottonel, Early Muscat, and Dolcetto. I have had many older wines by Stag Hollow, including an epic 2002 ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir and have found their wines to be incredible age-worthy. Winemaker Mark Huff originally started as a home brewer and then was drawn to making wine. In the mid-1980s Mark began bringing in grapes from California and was experimenting with making wines from his home.  After some time Mark and his partner, Jill Zarnowitz, purchased the property next to Wahle Vineyard, and began planting their vineyard in 1990, releasing their first commercial wine from the 1994 vintage.

Their 2014 Stag Hollow Dolcetto (WWB, 91) landed on my WWB Top 100 of 2017 and is a downright steal at only $22.00. This wine has incredible depth, terroir and range that is a can’t miss bottling. A killer new release that is also an unusual planting for the AVA is their 2015 Stag Hollow Tempranillo (WWB, 91). This outstanding wine has a wonderful combination of earthy tones and rich dark fruit flavors. One of the great wines that I have tried from the 2014 vintage in Oregon, the 2014 Stag Hollow ‘Reserve 777/114’ Pinot Noir is a limited release wine that is not typically made each year. This great wine has an incredible mouthfeel and maintains wonderful elegance and intensity, beautifully reflecting this warm, near-perfect vintage in Oregon. Learn more about this great historic Oregon winery at https://www.staghollow.com/ Here are the outstanding new wines by Stag Hollow. 

Great looking label on all Stag Hollow wines.

2015 Stag Hollow Tempranillo- A mere 93 cases  of this warm vintage wine were produced. This begins with earthy aromatics of damp soil, cigar shavings and blackberry. The mouthfeel is seductive, as the wine reveals dark and red fruit flavors with good minerality. Tannic and delicious, this one of a kind wine is seriously awesome. Drink 2018-2026- 91

2014 Stag Hollow ‘Yamhill-Carlton’ Pinot Noir- The 2014 ‘Yamhill-Carlton’ Pinot Noir by Stag Hollow begins with aromas of bllack tea, forest floor and peat moss. The mouthfeel is gorgeous, as the silky wine glides across the mid-palate. Blackberry cobbler, forest floor and black cherry preserve flavors impress. Hedonistic, yet elegant, this is an outstanding effort by the talented hands of Mark Huff. Drink 2018-2026- 91

2014 Stag Hollow Dolcetto- The 2014 Stag Hollow Dolcetto is another gorgeous release from this longstanding Oregon estate. This rarely found Italian varietal opens with aromatics of red currant, red cherry, sweet tobacco and nutmeg. There are flavors of red cherry, red raspberry, cram-orange, teaberry and suggestions of white pepper. This shows impressive range and rich red fruits, while maintaining a strong mineral backbone. Overall this is a lovely example of the varietal outside of Italy. Drink 2018-2028- 91

2014 Stag Hollow ‘Reserve 777/114’ Pinot Noir- The 'Reserve 777/114' Pinot Noir is only made in years where the winemaker finds exceptional elegance. The resultant wine begins with aromas of candied red cherry, red raspberry, teaberry, cigar box, orange blossom and forest floor as the wine shows considerable range. The mouthfeel of this feminine style wine is absolutely gorgeous. There is a seamless quality to this wine that is rarely found. Like the other 2014 'Reserve' bottling, this has the structure and elegance to cellar for over a decade. Drink 2018-2030- 94

2014 Stag Hollow ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir- The 2014 Reserve Pinot Noir is a blend of 8 different clones. This displays a slightly orange hued color and begins with gorgeous aromatics of red cherries, black truffle, white pepper, orange rind and suggestions of pipe tobacco. The earthy elements of this hot vintage wine are evident before folding in flavors of red fruits, orange zest and forest floor which carry on through the lingering finish. This gorgeous wine has just started its journey, but should cellar well past 10 years. Drink 2017-2029- 92

2014 Stag Hollow ‘Vendage Selection’ Pinot Noir- The 2014 'Vendange Selection' Pinot Noir by Stag Hollow is a blend of Pommard and Colmar 538 clones. This wine begins with bright aromatics of forest floor, black truffle oil, black cherry, wild blackberry and suggestions of cranberry. On the palate the flavors of dark fruits, black truffle, orange rind, guava puree and slight hints of cola beautifully weave together as this wine has considerable range. The minerality, light tannins and mid-palate weight suggests this is another age-worthy wine from this exceptional producer of Pinot Noir. Only 93 cases made. Drink 2018-2030- 93

Nicolas-Jay

As part of our Oregon Wine Month features, we bring you a great boutique winery out of Oregon, Nicolas-Jay, a project winery founded by eminent Burgundian winemaker Jean-Nicolas Meo and music entrepreneur Jay Boberg. Jean-Nicolas Meo has experience working with grand crus of Burgundy and has translated that into understanding Oregon terroir. Jean-Nicolas has truly produced wines from some of the finest vineyards in Burgundy such as the Richebourg, Clos de Vougeot, Corton Clos Rognet and Echezeaux vineyards. Jay Boberg serves as cellar rat and aids assistant winemaker Tracy Kendall. The winery sources from their estate Bishop Creek Vineyard on in the Yamhill-Carlton appellation, as well as grapes from other outstanding Willamette Valley vineyards, including Nysa, Momtazi, Hyland and La Colina. The resultant wine is a wonderful blend of terroir and red fruits. 

The new releasee, their 2015 Nicolas-Jay ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 91) shows really good range and earthy tones. Beautifully balanced, this is a wine that will cellar well for a decade or more. Nicolas-Jay also produces single vineyard bottlings that are mailing list only. Learn more about this great Oregon winery at https://www.nicolas-jay.com Here is the great new Pinot Noir release by Nicolas-Jay

2015 Nicolas-Jay ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- This translucent hued Pinot Noir starts off with heady aromatics of cran-pomegranate, forest floor and suggestions of cigar ash. The palate shows a nice acidity and brightness with guava, red cherry candy and raspberry preserve flavors that sit with the astringency. With a touch of citrus rind towards the back end, this outstanding feminine style Pinot Noir wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 91

Interview with new Dunham Cellars Head Winemaker, Rob Campisi

There has been some exciting news from Dunham Cellars in the past few weeks as they have promoted their assistant winemaker, to head winemaker. Rob Campisi has been working in the wine industry since 2007. Studying from one of Washington’s great winemakers, Dan Wampfler, Rob now has the opportunity to take over one of the outstanding lineups in Washington wine. I recently had the opportunity to sit down with him and chat about his recent promotion. These are very exciting times at Dunham and I am eager to see Rob’s deft touch in the wines. I think you will enjoy hearing more about Rob Campisi, the new head winemaker at Dunham Cellars.

WWB: How were you first interested in winemaking?

RC: Honestly, I had no idea about winemaking when I was younger. I became good friends with Dan Wampfler when he was at Columbia Crest, doing a lot of work on the west side. We got along really well and eventually became best friends. It was wild to see that he was the winemaker there because we were doing very different things. I was in the financial industry doing portfolio manager at entry level position there. The work was not really exciting. This was back in 2007 and the timing was a little depressing being a part of that industry. As soon as Dan took the position in the beginning of 2008 Dunham was half the size of what it currently is. They were a lot smaller back then so Dan hired his brother and myself, it was the three of us in the beginning. Dan promised the position taking me under his wing and show me the technical side of winemaking - beyond just tasting the wine. I literally started as a cellar rat just dragging hoses and cleaning tanks but used every opportunity I had to learn. I wanted to understand the importance of every bit of the process. I got more responsibility and then was promoted to Assistant Winemaker. A huge part of my experience was having some overlap with Eric Dunham and tasting wines with him. He was one of my best friends but as far as taking me under his wing and the style that he started, Eric had a great influence on me. 

WWB: What was it like learning from Dan Wampfler? What are some of the challenges of taking over after such acclaimed winemakers?

RC: Learning the technical side of winemaking from Dan was major part of building my foundation.  He not only introduced me to winemaking as a career but also something that becomes a lifestyle.  It can be a tough job, especially during harvest, with long hours.  If the passion isn’t there then this can a grueling job.

I don’t see a particular challenge from necessarily taking over after Dan but I think the biggest thing is the Dunham name itself. What Dan and Eric accomplished was really great. It’s an honor to have this opportunity but these are some really large shoes to fill.  We are nationally distributed and have experienced great reviews and accolades. The expectations are high and it will always be that way. The challenge that any winemaker has to keep in mind is that you don’t want too get comfortable. We have to use every vintage as an opportunity to do it over again and being better than the last time with careful examination from the last one. It demands creativity and the ability to constantly adapt to changes.  

WWB: Dunham has one of the best overall lineups in Washington wine. What are the biggest challenges in making everything from top Riesling to Chardonnay to Syrah?

RC: When you are making all these wines it is a real challenge. It demands a lot of time to figure out the wines and revisiting them. You want to be proactive about tasting. You might want to reach out to other winemakers. I like to hear other ideas and be open for discussion. I think that Riesling has its fair challenges. There is a simplicity of the varietal but stylistically you can bring it so many places. Like most white wines there is little room for error and anything off is obvious. There are not a ton of options with it, it is all stainless, no barrels. It’s all about maintaining aromatics but also balancing acid and sugar. Plus we are only working with one source.

Another challenging wine would be our Three Legged Red, Red Blend. There are so many wines and blending options to make this every year. This take some serious time to dial in and it’s usually our largest produced wine.  Everything else has a longer barrel maturation plan so you can pencil the plans out.  This red blend will only see a few months and you really want to deliver serious value for a $19 bottle.  

WWB: When you are not enjoying Dunham wines, what are some of your favorite wines and wineries from the Pacific Northwest?

RC: I love wines of the world. I hate to be cliche but I love great Cabernet. With the local wines I love going tasting. Trey and Keith make great wine over at Sleight of Hand, Sean Boyd at Rotie, there’s Tamarack, Dusted Valley,  I can go on and on. Then there are the wineries that have been there for a long time. Pepper Bridge for instance, Jean-Francois is an amazing winemaker. With Abeja, Dan Wampfler is up there and I have a lot of respect for that guy and his wines. Their Chardonnay is amazing. Amy, Dan's wife and partner in winemaking, has one of the sharpest palates out there. 

2018 Pacific Northwest Rose Report

Rose all day is not just a fad. Rose wines have hit a trend with not only popularity in the tasting room but quality in the bottle. The new Rose releases in the Pacific Northwest have a much greater focus on quality, whether striving for weight, tension or range in the bottle. For the past fifteen plus years I have tasted Rose wines from the Northeast that did not draw much excitement. Many were simply an afterthought, a simple saignee and thrown in the bottle. I am amazed by the transformation of Rose wines in the Pacific Northwest. Many new wines are not only delightful in the glass but are serious, stand alone bottlings that can sit with any of the best Rose wines in North America. I have to disagree with some of my colleagues on Rose — Rose is not a simple wine if it is made correctly. It can be complex, show marvelous range and also pairs remarkably with a broad spectrum of foods. It appears that good Pacific Northwest Rose is now here to stay.

Over the past few months I have had the pleasure of sampling nearly 100 Rose wines from Washington and Oregon. I have chosen my favorites for the report, categorizing them into good value Rose wines and top scoring Rose wines. I believe this to be the first comprehensive Pacific Northwest Rose report by any wine writer and I’ll do my best to sum up what I have sampled.

Out of Washington, in terms of value, there are great Rose wines by Chateau St. Michelle, as both the 2017 14 Hands Rose (WWB, 89) and 2017 Chateau St. Michelle Rose (WWB, 89) get high marks, particularly at their price points. Also check out the 2017 Maryhill Rose (WWB, 89) and the 2017 Charles and Charles Rose (WWB, 88) which overdeliver considering their price. Seven Hills continues to make some of the best value Rose and their 2017 Seven Hills Rose (WWB, 90) is no exception, showing wonderful astringency and elegance. Amongst the top scoring Rose wines, standing tall is the stunning 2017 DeLille Cellars Rose (WWB, 93) which is truly one of the great Rose wines made in North America. This has tremendous weight, tension and range — and is nearly impossible to resist right now. Cayuse Vineyards (WWB, 93) makes a world-class Rose that shows absolutely gorgeous range, texture and complexity. Gramercy Cellars has gained a nationwide reputation for their Rose and the 2017 Gramercy Cellars Rose (WWB, 92) is up there with their best Rose wines produced. This new edition is blending at its finest, a Rhone style Rose sourced from the esteemed Olsen Vineyard. Long Shadows has a similarly great reputation for Rose and the 2017 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazze’ Rose (WWB, 92) is a downright stunning bottling that has incredible texture and ‘dazzling’ acidity that is not to be missed.

Some excellent value Rose wines hail from Oregon, particularly the 2017 Erath Rose (WWB, 88) and the 2017 Portlandia Wine Company Rose (WWB, 89). There were a host of Rose wines from Oregon that scored over 90 points. Top of its class was the 2017 Toil Rose (WWB, 93) made by superstar winemaker, Chris Figgins. This wine has gobs of mouthwatering acidity and is nearly impossible to resist right now. Just as good and truly one of the top Rose wines in North America is the 2017 Big Table Farm Rose (WWB, 93) which is rich, displaying a tremendous mouthfeel and tension. Also do not miss top Rose wines by Stoller, Child’s Play, Willakenzie Estate and Gran Moraine. Cheers to a fantastic summer of Rose from all of us at Washington Wine Blog. 

Washington

Value Rose: 

2017 14 Hands Rose- This deep colored wine starts off with aromas of candied red cherry with raspberry cordial aromatics and a touch of white rose. The palate shows nice weight and minerality. Red fruits mingle with floral undertones. This is an outstanding effort that impresses for the price. Drink 2018-2022- 89

2017 Chateau St. Michelle Rose- The label implies a crisp Rose and that’s what you are delivered. Light red fruit aromatics connect with a zingy acidity that sits through the drinking experience. Seriously good, pair this awesome new Rose release with Kushi oysters. Drink 2018-2022- 89

2017 Charles and Charles Rose- Largely comprised of Syrah, on the nose the wine starts off with a touch of lilac and pomegranate, while notes of rhubarb and a hint of cut grass show through on the palate.  This ends on a strong note with a lingering cherry driven finish. The 12.3% alcohol makes for a refreshing summer beverage. Drink 2018-2020- 88 (S.L.)

2017 Revelry Vintners Rose- The winery has gained a sterling reputation for great value Rose and this wine is no exception. Made from Cabernet Franc and Grenache, this reveals light red fruit flavors with a backing of bright acidity and citrus notes. Drink 2018-2020 -88

2017 Board Track Racer Rose- A compelling value, this pale colored Rosé starts off with light watermelon and red cherry candy on the nose. The palate shows nice minerality and mouthfeel, showing off guava, ripe strawberry and orange zest flavors. A touch sweet, nonetheless delicious. Drink 2018-2022- 89

2017 Underground Wine Project ‘And Why I’m Mr. Pink’ Rose- A Sangiovese based Rose, the wine takes on a very delicate flavor profile of red fruits with a touch of orange zest towards the back end. Nicely astringent, this really needs food to shine. Drink 2018-2020- 88

2017 Isenhower Rose- The nose is reminiscent of watermelon and guava. Very delicate, but showing good minerality, this showcases red fruits with a touch of citrus rind towards the back end. Drink 2018-2020- 88

2017 Barnard Griffin Rose- Light and soft, this delivers good acidity and lighter red fruit flavors. Enjoy this refreshing style Sangiovese Rose while the acidity remains intense. Drink 2018-2020- 87

2017 Vino La Monarcha Rose- This starts off with rose petals and watermelon on the nose. The palate shows good tension with light red fruit flavors. Refreshing and light, this is a really nice effort. Drink 2018-2022- 89

2017 Maryhill Rose- The vivid pink color catches one's eye right away.  Clocks in at 12.5% alcohol. From the Tudor Hills Vineyard, this rose offers cranberries, raspberries and a small dose of minerality. Drink 2018-2020- 89 (S.L.)

Top Rose Wines: 

2017 Gramercy Cellars Rose-The 2017 Gramercy Cellars Rosé is a blend of 44% Cinsault, 31% Grenache and 25% Syrah, all sourced from the Olsen Vineyard. This pale colored Rose begins with a bouquet of white peach, red cherry candy and watermelon with a slightly smoky edge. The minerality is fantastic, as is the gorgeous mouthfeel. Balanced, showing good weight, the Rose unveils red cherry, cran-orange and rose water flavors. This is another outstanding wine made by the talented winemaking team of Greg Harrington and Brandon Moss. Drink 2018-2022- 92

2017 Côte Bonneville Rose- This Cabernet Franc Rose is the follow up to the absolutely outstanding 2016 bottling. The nose is highly perfumed with red rose and guava puree with bright strawberry. Lithe and rich on the palate, this shows off lovely watermelon, strawberry and a touch of citrus rind flavors. Delicious and highly poised, this is a stunning new wine by superstar winemaker Kerry Shiels. Drink 2018-2022- 92

2017 Lauren Ashton Rose- The 2017 Lauren Ashton Rose is a wine with sterling minerality. Lighter rose petal and watermelon aromatics fill  the nose. The palate has a nice texture with red cherry, red raspberry and guava flavors. This crisp wine is a gorgeous effort by superstar winemaker Kit Singh. Drink 2018-2022- 91

2017 Lagana Cellars Rose- Sourced from the Breezy Slope Vineyard, this 100% Pinot Noir Rose starts off with lighter red fruits on the nose, with a citrus edge. I like the combination of astringency and structure here as the wine showcases light guava, watermelon and lemon rind flavors. This is very refreshing. Drink 2018-2022- 89

2017 Seven Hills Rose-Made from Cabernet Franc grapes, winemaker Casey McClellan has blended in smaller parts of Malbec and Petit Verdot in this Rose. Pale in color and weighing in at 12.6% alcohol, this has pear, honeydew melon and guava on the nose. You have to love the texture here as the wine reveals light red cherry and guava flavors that connect with the good tension. This is another outstanding Rose by Seven Hills. Drink 2018-2022- 90

2017 Saviah Rose-Sourced from the Dugger Creek Vineyard this shows very pretty rose petals and red fruit on the nose. The weight and minerality is there with lovely citrus undertones. Drink 2018-2022- 90

2017 Syncline Rose- One of the great new release Rose wines, this starts off with sexy rose petals on nose with smoky accents on the mid-palate and red cherry. Delicious and lithe, this has a dense mouthfeel and is nearly impossible to resist right nowl. Drink 2018-2022- 91

2017 Bledsoe Family Wines Rose- The minerality and richness to this wine really stands out as lighter red fruit flavors of guava and strawberry puree build on the mouth. Gorgeous and downright delicious, this displays the signature texture of superstar winemaker Josh McDaniels. Drink 2018-2022- 91

2017 DAMA Wines Rose- Made from Cabernet Franc, this wine starts off with white rose, cranberry and red cherry candy on the nose. The silky texture and rich mouthfeel combines to create a wonderful experience on the tongue. Ripe strawberry puree, guava and cran-cherry flavors come to mind. Finishing strong with cherry cream and minerals, this is a downright awesome Rose by DAMA. Drink 2018-2022- 91

2017 L’Ecole No. 41 Rose- Sourced from Grenache vines in the Horse Heaven Hills, this begins with aromatics of orange blossom, red cherry and rose water. The palate echoes the nose, with beautiful minerality, as these grapes were obviously picked early. I can’t help thinking how this refreshing Rose will beautifully compliment chilled shellfish. Drink 2018-2022- 90

2017 Pursued By Bear ‘Blushing Bear’ Rose- A blend of 50% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache and 20% Cinsault, this Rose starts off with green papaya, orange zest and red cherry candy on the nose. Creamy, with a lovely texture, this is very old-world, displaying delicate red fruit flavors with a touch of citrus rind. There is a seamless quality here that drives the wine. Drink 2018-2022- 90

2017 Tranche Rose- Lightly colored, this was aged in concrete prior to bottling. Cran-orange and a touch of wild strawberry hits the nose. Delicate, with a lithe minerality, this shows off light red fruit flavors with a touch of citrus rind towards the back end. Drink 2017-2020- 90

2017 DeLille Cellars Rose- This Rose wine is an outstanding pre-release by DeLille Cellars. Bottled in March 2018, the wine is a blend of 53% Grenache with the rest Mourvedre and Cinsault. This pale colored Rose wine starts off with aromas of rose water, watermelon, guava puree and citrus blossom. The pretty nose brings you back to the glass for more. The palate is lithe and the texture is marvelous here. Red cherry, orange peel, red raspberry puree mark the palate. The richness to this wine and acidity shines through. This is a marvelous effort by DeLille that is truly one of the best in the state. Drink 2018-2024- 93

2017 EFESTE Rose- This is a blend of Mourvedre and Grenache sourced from the Boushey Vineyard. Wonderful floral aromatics mark the nose with red fruits. This shows good astringency with a rich mouthfeel. Red cherry, cran-orange and rose water flavors impress. Drink 2018-2022- 91

2017 Time & Direction Rose- Sourced from Grenache vines, this pale colored Rose begins with aromas of guava, strawberry and rose petals. The palate is bright, showing mouth-watering acidity. This hard to resist Rose finishes clean with light red fruits, minerals and a touch of tangerine rind. An outstanding debut, enjoy this wonderful Rose over the next few years. Drink 2018-2022- 90

2017 Eternal Wines Rose- Sourced from Grenache vines planted in the French Creek Vineyard, this limited production, pale colored Rose starts off with light lemon zest and guava aromatics. The effervescence and astringency is lively, showcasing very delicate orange peel and red currant with watermelon flavors. Drink 2018-2022- 88

2017 The Walls ‘Cruel Summer’ Rose- Citrus rind, teaberry and red cherry line the delicate nose. This has a Provencale feel, with a lively acidity. The texture here is really outstanding. Light citrus and red fruit flavors mingle with minerals. This is an outstanding effort that is really needing a hot summer day. Drink 2018-2022- 90

2017 W. T. Vintners ‘Parasol’ Rose- This Pinot Noir Rose is Sourced from Underwood Mountain. Very delicates red fruit and rose petal aromatics grip you. There is nice weight and acidity as the mid-palate texture is marvelous showing off bright red fruit flavors with lighter citrus undertones. Great as a stand-alone Rose, this would also pair nicely with sushi. Drink 2018-2022- 91

2015 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Edith’ Rose- The ‘Edith’ Rosé comes from the Armada Vineyard, utilizing Grenache, the fruit is picked at a very low brix, crushed and then set into maceration for 24 hours followed by a gentle press. The wine is then partly stored in concrete eggs and stainless steel. The result is a wonderful fresh, precise Rosé, with aromatics of sliced strawberry, guava, white peach and wild mushroom nuances. The texture and minerality gorgeous driven by ripe strawberries, teaberry, orange rind and suggestions of baking spices, all underlined by a lovely saline streak. The texture is wonderful, as it leads to an exceedingly long finish. This is one of the finest examples of Rosé from Walla Walla. Only 119 cases made. Drink 2018-2024- 93

2017 Dunham Cellars Rose- This shows wonderful pretty aromatics with rose petals and watermelon. The astringency is really nice as the wine shows off guava, watermelon and red cherry flavors. Delicate and poised, this is an outstanding effort by Dunham. Drink 2018-2022- 91

2017 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose- Sourced from The Benches Vineyard in the Columbia Valley, this wine is another spectacular effort by superstar winemaker Giles Nicault. The nose is highly perfumed with rose petals, guava puree and red cherry candy. The palate is both lush and lithe, showing off exotic rose water, cran-cherry, and blood orange flavors. The tension is vibrant, as this is nearly impossible to resist right now. Enjoy this beautiful Rose young while it keeps its verve. Drink 2018-2022- 92

Oregon

Value Rose: 

2017 Erath Rose- this great value starts with aromas of orange zest with red cherry and red raspberry. Lean and linear, the wine has good structure and light red fruit flavors that connect with the tension. This needs some killer shellfish. Drink 2018-2022- 88

2017 Portlandia Wine Company Rose- A rose from the Rose City, the label is fitting in its being printed on recycled kraft paper.  This simple yet elegant Rose starts off with white flowers and strawberries on the nose, followed by watermelon and cranberries on the palate with a brisk minerality. Drink 2018-2022- 89 (S.L.)

2017 Walnut City Rose- Very delicate on the nose, there are flavors of red fruits that entice. The minerality and light citrus finish makes this a winner. Drink 2018-2022- 88

2017 Wine By Joe Rose- Very delicate on the nose, the wine unveils some nice bright strawberry and guava flavors with crisp acidity. Light on its feet, this great value is perfect for a hot sumner day. Drink 2018-2020- 88

Top Rose Wines: 

2017 Big Table Farm ‘Laughing Pig’ Rose- This beautifully textured wine was pressed and then stored in neutral oak prior to bottling. Unfined and unfiltered, this is one of the best of its kind by superstar winemaker Brian Marcy of Big Table Farm. Richly colored, there is a wonderful vibrance and verve to this wine made of Pinot Noir grapes. Ripe strawberry and guava puree fills the nose. The palate is nearly irresistible with cran-cherry and orange zest undertones. Not for the weary, this is a rich and highly refreshing effort that is truly one of the best in North America. Drink 2018-2024- 93

NV Domaine Serene ‘X’ Rose- Beautifully astringent and refreshing, the tenth edition of this wine yields some nice sour cherry, guava and cran-orange flavors connected with minerals. Drink 2018-2022- 90

2016 Brandborg ‘Fleur de Lis’ Rose- Made from Pinot Noir grapes sourced from the Ferris Wheel Estate Vineyard, this begins with aromas of guava and teaberry. Smooth and delicate, the wine shows off light red fruit flavors with rose petal and a touch of wild mushroom. Drink 2018-2022- 88

2017 Sokol Blosser Rose- Made from Pinot Noir, this starts off with a lighter nose of rose petals and watermelon. Bright, with good acidity, the wine unveils a nice array of red fruits with a touch of citrus. Drink 2018-2022- 89

2017 Fullerton ‘Three Otters’ Rose- A blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Pinot Gris, this opens with a bouquet of rose petals, ripe red cherry and strawberry. Wonderfully balanced and poised, with strong acidity, the wine showcases guava puree, strawberry and rose water flavors. This is a serious Rose by Fullerton. Drink 2018-2022- 90

2017 Yamhill Valley ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- This wine begins with guava and strawberry aromas, leading to a lively acidity and smooth mouthfeel. Light red cherry and red raspberry flavors complete this refreshing wine that is in need of a hot summer day. Drink 2018-2022- 89

2017 Airlie Rose- This deep coloreds Rose starts off with rose petals and wild mushroom on the nose. Highly poised and downright delicious, the wine delivers red cherry candy, watermelon and gran-raspberry flavors. Bright and intense, this is an outstanding effort. Drink 2018-2022- 90

2017 Child’s Play Rose- Made from Pinot Noir grapes, this outstanding wine shows off red currant, red cherry and guava puree aromatics. Beautifully balanced and slightly sweet, this shows a dazzling minerality with bright red fruit flavors and a touch of orange rind towards the back end. Superstar winemaker Tony Rynders has absolutely nailed this Rose. Grab this impossible to resist Rose by the case while you can. Drink 2018-2022- 91

2017 Goodfellow Rose- Pale in color, with an orange hue, the wine shows off pretty tangerine and guava aromatics. Bright, with a good astringency, the wine shows off lemon zest, kumquat and bright watermelon flavors. Drink 2018-2022- 89

2017 Gran Moraine Rose- This limited release Rose is a striking effort from this estate. Made from Pinot Noir grapes, this starts off with wild mushroom, red cherry and guava on the nose. The palate reveals a silky texture, leading to ripe strawberry, guava and cran-raspberry flavors. Crisp and delightful for a hot summer day, this outstanding effort shows both lovely poise, elegance and weight from this exciting vintage in the Willamette Valley. Drink 2018-2024- 92

2017 Toil Rose- Coming off the sterling 2016 Rose, the 2017 Toil Rose is another spectacular effort by superstar winemaker Chris Figgins. This shows off a beautiful orange-pink hue with rose petal, blood orange rind and a touch of honeysuckle on the nose. The mouthfeel is simply gorgeous, as the wine reveals wonderful rose water, red cherry puree, guava and cran-orange flavors. Delicate, refreshing, and downright delicious, this is up there with the best Rose wines in the northwest and is nearly impossibly to resist right now. Drink 2018-2024- 93

2017 Raptor Ridge Rose- This Rose was actually barrel fermented for a short time. The nose has cantaloupe with wild mushroom and red fruits. Really good acidity marks the mid-palate as the silky smooth mouthfeel impresses. Candied raspberry, guava and red cherry flavors persist. This is an outstanding effort by Raptor Ridge. Drink 2018-2022- 90

2017 Chehalem ‘Three Vineyard’ Rose- This outstanding wine shows a feminine streak. Red cherry, red currant and watermelon flavors beautifully mingle with bright acidity. The mouthfeel is excellent here. Drink 2018-2022- 90

2017 William Marie Rose- This deep colored wine begins with aromas of red cherry with red currant and citrus rind. The minerality here is really good, as is the balance, as red fruits dance with minerals. Slightly sweet, this is an excellent effort by William Marie. Drink 2018-2022- 89

2017 Stoller Rose- This beautiful pale colored Rose starts off with a wonderful bouquet of rose petals, red cherry and orange rind. Bight acidity marks this outspending wine with red cherry and cran-orange flavors and a touch of guava. Bright and intense, this is an outstanding new wine by Stoller. Drink 2018-2022- 91

2017 Willakenzie Estate Rose- Winemaker Erik Kramer has crafted this great new Pinot Noir Rose. Pretty lighter red fruit aromatics fill the glass. The plush texture really shines here. Red currant jelly, red cherry and pomegranate with a kiss of citrus rind complete this fantastic new wine. Drink 2018-2022- 91

Domaine Serene

In the heart of Oregon Wine Month now, we bring you the latest releases from one of the top wineries in Oregon, Domaine Serene. One of the top estates in Oregon, Domaine Serene has earned a national reputation for incredible Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. Founded in 1989 by Grace and Ken Evenstad, Domaine Serene is perched atop the Dundee Hills, with absolutely stunning views of the valley. If you have never visited Domaine Serene, it is a must visit. As good as the views are, the wines are even better. The Evenstads have recently been in the news as they gave the largest donation for wine education in Oregon wine history, helping create the Grace and Ken Evenstad Center for Wine Education at Linfield College (https://www.linfield.edu/linfield-news/grace-and-ken-evenstad-pledge-to-revolutionize-wine-education-with-6-million-gift-to-linfield-college/). Since starting Domaine Serene the Evenstads have revolutionized Oregon wine. 

The new Domaine Serene releases were simply stunning, coming from the warm 2015 vintage. A blockbuster new wine, the gorgeous 2015 ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) is Oregon Pinot at its best. I have not had a better release of this wine over the past fifteen years. This is truly one for the cellar. Nearly as good was the 2014 Domaine Serene ‘Cote Sud’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 94) as the wine shows incredible earthy tones and wonderful range. These guys are really on top of their game right now. Learn more this top Oregon winery, Domaine Serene, at http://domaineserene.com/ Here are the incredible new wines from Domaine Serene.

NV Domaine Serene ‘X’ Rose- Beautifully astringent and refreshing, the tenth edition of this wine yields some nice sour cherry, guava and cran-orange flavors connected with minerals. Drink 2018-2022- 90

2015 Domaine Serene ‘Etoile Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2015 Domaine Serene ‘Etoile Vineyard’ Chardonnay is another highly compelling release by one of Oregon’s top producers of Chardonnay. Toasty brioche and Meyer lemon oil aromatics immediately entice with bourbon pear rounding out the nose. Powerful, yet elegant, this has a silky texture and wonderful weight. Meyer lemon creme brûlée, roasted hazelnut and poached pear flavors impress. The long, near minute long, lemon cream finish completes this awesome Chardonnay. Enjoy this great bottling over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 94

2015 Domaine Serene ‘Cote Sud Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Needing roughly an hour in the Decanter to develop, this great wine starts off with bright starfruit, vanilla creme brûlée and lime zest aromatics. Round and rich on the mid-palate, this shows off roasted pineapple, Meyer lemon meringue and butterscotch flavors, currently displaying an exotic edge. The minerality and salinity is gorgeous here. Drink 2018-2028- 93

2015 Domaine Serene ‘Yamhill Cuvee’ Pinot Noir- Domaine Serene’s entry level bottling that impresses in this hot vintage. Very pretty red fruit aromatics mark the nose with ripe guava, cran-pomegranate, red cherry candy and a touch of blood orange rind. The palate shows really nice poise, with red cherry, red raspberry and teaberry flavors showing beautifully. Poised, with good weight, this is a spectacular effort by Serene. Having tried the past fifteen plus bottlings of this wine, this is absolutely the best example of the Yamhill Cuvée that I’ve reviewed. Drink 2018-2028- 92

2015 Domaine Serene ‘Two Barns Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The Two Barns Vineyard is set at a low elevation in the Dundee Hills and is set on Willakenzie sedimentary soils. This wine was aged in 48% new French oak for 18 months prior to bottling. This begins with red fruits and a touch of citrus rind on the nose, with light oak undertones. Delicate, with a silky mouthfeel, the wine showcases guava puree, strawberry and cran-orange flavors that connect with a lovely tension. A long ager, this feminine style Pinot Noir will cellar well over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2018-2030- 93

2015 Domaine Serene ‘Cote Sud’ Vineyard Pinot Noir- This wine saw considerable new French oak (58% new) for 17 months prior to botting. The resultant Pinot Noir opens with a bright bouquet of raspberry cordial, wild blackberry and forest floor aromatics. The weight and acidity of this wine shines, as does the delicious dark fruits that mingle with peat moss on the mid-palate. This finishes exceedingly long with a wonderful combination of damp earth and dark cherry pie. Drink 2018-2030- 94

2015 Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Pinot Noir- This deep colored Pinot Noir follows up the spectacular 2014 bottling. The nose has absolutely everything you want in great warm vintage Oregon Pinot Noir. Earthy tones connect with black cherry liquor and black truffle oil on the nose. Robust, with a stunning texture, this entices without even addressing flavor. Black Forest cake, cigar ash, loganberry jam and a touch of milk chocolate and blood orange round out this absolutely incredible wine. This is the best Evenstad Pinot Noir I’ve reviewed in the past fifteen years. Drink 2018-2035- 95

Interview with Trevor Durling, Head Winemaker of Beaulieu Vineyard

Taking over for a legendary winemaker at a legendary winery is a tall order. In March of 2017 Trevor Durling was named General Manager and Chief Winemaker for Beaulieu Vineyard, only the fifth winemaker for the famed Napa Valley winery founded in 1900. Durling has previously served at some famed houses and was previously winemaker at Provenance and Hewitt prior to coming to BV. He is also a graduate of the famed UC Davis viticulture and enology program. Serving under Tom Rinaldi at Hewitt, he has learned from some of the famed names in wine. I think you will enjoy learning more about Trevor Durling, the talented winemaker at BV Vineyards.

WWB: How did you decide to attend the famed viticulture and enology program at UC Davis? What were some of your greatest inspirations from internships and faculty while you were attending school there?

TD: When I enrolled in UC Davis, my intention was to join the ROTC program and eventually become an officer in the US Air Force, following in my grandfather’s footsteps. He was a 37-year veteran, and I idolized him. However, I also knew that UC Davis was renowned for its exceptional winemaking program and I was interested in exploring this opportunity as a student at the university. When I intentionally enrolled in an introductory class to winemaking, this awakened my love of agriculture and science so not long after, I transferred to the university’s Viticulture and Enology program and this cemented my career in winemaking.

One of the most influential experiences I had while I was a student was working at Sonoma Cutrer as an intern. I was fortunate to work under Terry Adams, who took me under his wing and showed me how amazing winemaking truly was. During my internship, I had the chance to wear many different hats so-to- speak so I learned a lot about what goes into making great wines. My typical day-to day job was helping with grape sampling, being out in the vineyards, and then returning to the lab later to run the chemistry on the samples I’d collected. Then, I stuck around later into the end of the day and into the evenings to help in the cellar and get my hands dirty by inoculating tanks and even participating in tasting trials with Terry and his team. This hands-on experience was a tremendous opportunity for me to learn a lot about all aspects of winemaking and I remember the immense pride that everybody on the team had for the wines we were crafting. This resonated strongly with me and solidified my career choice of wanting to become a winemaker. While at Davis, I was very inspired and influenced by the tremendous faculty that taught us about winemaking. This group of teachers were some of the most passionate and brilliant people I’ve encountered – they truly lived and breathed wine. Studying under Dr. Roger Boulton, Linda Bisson, and Andy Walker, among others was incredibly inspiring to me as a young, enthusiastic winemaker.

WWB: Talk about your experience crafting red wines at Provenance and Hewitt - How were you able to help build their programs?

TD: I joined Provenance Vineyards and Hewitt Vineyard in March 2010 as assistant winemaker. Working under Tom Rinaldi, I helped craft wines from the Napa Valley and some of the best vineyards in Rutherford. That first year was a crazy time: some of my first work at Hewitt contributed to the fantastic 2010 vintage of Hewitt Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, which earned the title of Wine Spectator’s #1 Cabernet Sauvignon in 2013, and the #4 spot on Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year list. It was an exhilarating and humbling experience, and Tom helped me put everything into perspective. Influenced by his example, I found a way to express myself more and to share with others why I really love what I get to do. When Tom retired in 2015, I was appointed Chief Winemaker at Provenance and Hewitt. But even working with Jeffrey Stambor and Joel Aiken as colleagues at Beaulieu while I was the Provenance Vineyards winemaker working across the highway has influenced me over the years. I think the more you spend time doing something, you learn to focus on what really matters, and I now recognize what’s going to move the needle and make a big impact. Asking questions, prioritizing and focusing on the right things is my new guiding mantra. I also put a lot more value now on the importance of spending time in the vineyards and working closely with my vineyard managers, ensuring the fruit is of the highest quality. I believe it shows in the glass during my tenure at Provenance and continues to guide me on the Hewitt and Beaulieu Vineyard wines.

WWB: What are some of the challenges of taking over the BV wine program after Jeffrey Stambor?

TD: First and foremost, the legacy of Beaulieu Vineyard, established in 1900, and the longevity of the Georges de Latour Private Reserve (which can easily be considered Napa Valley’s first cult cabernet) is unparalleled within Napa Valley. The wine has been made consistently since 1936, so this year we’ll be celebrating the 79th vintage with the release of the 2015 vintage. It’s one of the longest standing wines still made today with incredible heritage and I’m only the fifth winemaker in the history of Beaulieu to craft this wine. It is an amazing representation of an iconic Cabernet grown in the Napa Valley, based in Rutherford, and has been the standard of quality for decades and decades, so it’s my job not to mess that up. It’s certainly a cherished legacy to live up to and I’m making a significant effort to honor and highlight the past, while innovating for the future. I love to create and build things, but the older I get, the more I realize that nothing of quality is made by one person alone. It takes a team, even if my name happens to be the one on the bottle. You can be the best winemaker in the world but if you don’t have a supportive team, you won’t succeed. I’m a big believer that it’s important to inspire a team and to work together at all levels. The biggest challenge is always the unpredictability of Mother Nature, which will alter the vintages from year to year (which we certainly learned in 2017). But if everyone is fully engaged, working together in the winemaking process towards one goal, and feels a sense of ownership at each step, this will be reflected in the quality of the wines and will tell our story for future generations.

Of course, we want to continue to maintain our position as one of the oldest, most historical wineries that has set the standard for Napa Valley wines, namely Cabernet Sauvignons. However, we’re always looking to raise the bar and improve our wines when possible, and our winery and vineyards. I’ve joined the team at an exciting and pivotal time for Beaulieu. We have some exciting developments planned for the future of our visitor center, how we’re innovating in winemaking techniques, and improving the quality of our vineyards, which will ultimately enhance the caliber of our wines.

WWB: Your 2014 Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) is a stunning wine, showing incredible terroir and wonderful tension. Can you talk about this gorgeous Cabernet wine and what we have in store for the 2015 Georges de Latour?

TD: Our Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon has been widely recognized as the benchmark Cabernet Sauvignon from Rutherford since its inaugural vintage in 1936. The 2014 vintage is a superb example of this iconic wine showing a beautiful fresh fruit character and rich, full-bodied structure. Muscular tannins support the plush, expansive palate, while its acidity is balanced and adds to the wine’s overall vibrancy. We fermented this wine in a combination of 55 percent new French oak barrels to provide early integration of fruit and oak character into the blend and enhance the dense, rich texture.

The balance of the must is fermented in stainless steel and upright wood fermenters which preserves the freshness of the fruit. We blend a small amount of Petit Verdot and Merlot with the Cabernet Sauvignon to further enhance the wine’s aroma and flavor profile.To create this stunning vintage, we hand-selected grapes from the western bench of the Rutherford AVA in our iconic BV Ranches No. 1 and No. 2, originally planted by Georges de Latour in the early 1900s. We focused on clonal selections (6, 4, 169, 5197 and 7), which yield small berries with high skin-to-juice ratio needed to make intense wines with long lifespans. I recommend aging this one at least 5 years, although it can surely age longer if cellared correctly.

I think the 2015 vintage will be recognized for excellent quality, although low in quantity. The drought conditions created small, concentrated berries that produced very concentrated, expressive wines with a ripe tannin profile. We’re just starting to release a few of our 15’s now and they’re tasting beautifully. They’re surprisingly very approachable early but with an intense flavor profile and they also have the depth and structure to age for some time. For example, our 2015 Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet (although not releasing until late summer/early fall) has been delightfully surprising because of how approachable it is drinking currently. It is concentrated, powerful, very expressive and incredibly approachable now – but with great aging potential.

WWB: When you are not enjoying the great wines of Napa Valley what are some wines that you gravitate towards? Any favorite wine regions of the world to explore?

TD: I love Burgundy – the wines, the people and the region are very inspirational for me. I had the pleasure of spending two weeks there in 2016 and had the chance to visit some incredibly famous vineyards and wineries, even having a chance to do a vertical tasting of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti on my birthday, which left an indelible impression. Overall, I was struck by the amount of passion from each of the vintners I met, and how each vintner was also the person farming the land, making the wine, selling the wine, and in some cases, they were even the 10th generation of their family to do so. There is also incredible history in Burgundy, which as a bit of a history buff myself, I was completely drawn to like the old buildings and the stories behind them. This was an incredible experience for me and what I enjoy reliving while I enjoy the wines at home.

I also love drinking Bordeaux and Champagne. Additionally, Mendoza, Argentina was another location that I was able to visit that left a lasting impression. Mendoza is newer than the historical French winemaking regions, but the culture and passion of the people, mixing with amazing wines left a huge impression, like tasting some of the best Malbec in the world. Domestically, I also really enjoy Oregon and Washington wines, which I find fun to taste, explore and learn more about.Favorites included:

- Hospices de Beaune – being in the building and tasting here – incredible

- Bruno Colin in Burgundy - we tasted in the caves here which was extraordinary

- Catena Zapata – incredible Malbec in Mendoza but also one of the most beautiful wineries to visit

- Achaval- Ferrer - Argentina

- Decero - Argentina

- Domaine Serene - Oregon

Big Table Farm

I’ve been writing about one of the standout wineries in Oregon, Big Table Farm, for several years now. Last year they made the New York Times  — and honestly I feel that the national attention on them is long overdue. Led by the stellar team of Clare Carver and Brian Marcy, Big Table Farm crafts limited production wines, sourcing from some great smaller sites in the Willamette Valley. This year they have branched out and even produced a fantastic Syrah from the Rogue Valley in Southern Oregon. Visiting Big Table Farm is a unique, not to be missed tasting experience. The expansive working farm centers Clare and Brian’s house. Clare is an uber-talented artist, as her beautiful artwork appears on each bottle. Each bottle is truly a work of art.

Superstar winemaker, Brian Marcy, has previous stints at esteemed wineries including Marcassan and Neyers.  Humble and soft-spoken, Brian is a downright awesome guy to chat wine with and crafts one of the top wine lineups in Oregon. For the third year in a row, the top Rose wine that I have sampled in the past year from Oregon is the 2017 Big Table Farm ‘The Laughing Pig’ Rose (WWB, 93). This stand-alone wine combines weight, beautiful texture and a bright tension that I have not seen in Oregon Rose wines. It is a stunning wine that should be bought by the case. One of the best Pinot Noir bottlings that I have sampled in the past year out of Oregon is the 2016 Big Table Farm ‘Earth’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95). Poised, seductive and ‘earthy’ this incredible wine is one for the cellar. Learn more about this fantastic boutique winery at http://www.bigtablefarm.com/ Here are the fantastic new release wines by Big Table Farm.

2017 Big Table Farm ‘Laughing Pig’ Rose- This beautifully textured wine was pressed and then stored in neutral oak prior to bottling. Unfined and unfiltered, this is one of the best of its kind by superstar winemaker Brian Marcy of Big Table Farm. Richly colored, there is a wonderful vibrance and verve to this wine made of Pinot Noir grapes. Ripe strawberry and guava puree fills the nose. The palate is nearly irresistible with cran-cherry and orange zest undertones. Not for the weary, this is a rich and highly refreshing effort that is truly one of the best in North America. Drink 2018-2024- 93

2016 Big Table Farm ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- This deep colored wine is distinctly earthy on the nose with forest floor and black truffle oil overtones that marvelously connect with dark fruit. The hallmark minerality that is unveiled in this wine by superstar winemaker Brian Marcy connects with the solid weight and dark cherry, boysenberry cordial and wild mushroom flavors. With a touch of lavender towards the back end and ultra-light tannins, this beautiful wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2018-2028- 93

2016 Big Table Farm ‘Pelos Sandberg Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Each year, the Big Table Farm ‘Pelos Sandberg Vineyard’ Pinot Noir impresses particularly considering its price and this year’s vintage is no different. Ripe loganberry jelly, white truffle shavings, blood orange and cigar box aromatics fill the glass. This shows very pretty red fruits and citrus components on the palate, with dazzling minerality. Downright delicious now, this sensational effort by Big Table can be enjoyed for the next fifteen years. Drink 2018-2030- 94

2014 Big Table Farm ‘Rogue Valley’ Syrah- Deep, dark and brooding in the glass, the 2014 ‘Rogue Valley’ Syrah entices with its bulls blood, orange rind, and chocolate fudge aromatics. The weight and tension in the wine is apparent, as black raspberry cordial, blackberry jam, coffee ground and peat moss flavors excite. Balanced and full of life, this outstanding wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 92

The inspiration here behind this gorgeous label for their 2016 Big Table Farm 'Willamette Valley' Chardonnay. 

2016 Big Table Farm 'Willamette Valley' Chardonnay- Big Table Farm pulls off another stunning Willamette Valley Chardonnay bottling. A bit reticent on the nose, and needing an hour decant, once evolved this unveils beeswax, creme brûlée and poached pear aromas. The mouthfeel and silky smooth texture really drives this gorgeous wine. Marzipan, vanilla creme brûlée and Meyer lemon zest flavors impress. This could pass for a top class Montrachet. Drink 2018-2030- 93

2016 Big Table Farm ‘The Elusive Queen’ Chardonnay- The 2016 ‘The Elusive Queen’ by Big Table Farm is another stunning bottling from this outstanding winery. The moderate oak influence on the nose amalgamates with hints of citrus rind and baking spice aromatics. Intense and inviting, with a wonderful plush texture, the wine showcases Meyer lemon oil, vanilla whipping cream and Pink Lady apple flavors. Burly, yet elegant, this gorgeous wine needs a two hour decant if enjoying young. I can imagine this drinking well for fifteen years. Drink 2018-2030- 94

2016 Big Table Farm ‘Earth’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Earth’ Pinot Noir is a barrel selection that superstar winemaker Brian Marcy deems to be the best. Translucent in color, this starts off with beautiful aromatics of smoked brisket, white pepper, forest floor and cigar box with a smattering of dark fruits.  There is a wonderful elegance and restraint to this silky bottling. Blood orange zest, red cherry Starburst candy, peat moss and cigar ash flavors mark this exceptional wine. Rich and inviting, this one of a kind Pinot is one of the best of its kind. There is a remarkable sense of place and purity to this wine. Try to give this at least an hour decant before savoring. Only 105 cases made of this stunning Pinot Noir. Drink 2018-2033- 95