Leonetti Cellar

I’ll never forget my first Leonetti Merlot. It was a bottle of 2000 that I sampled when I was in graduate school more than 20 years ago. For years Leonetti has been producing world class red wines from the Walla Walla Valley.

Leonetti has always been a highly traditional winery, making several wines each year and not branching out to new projects.  For the past few years they are producing an amazing single vineyard project is a great chance for owner and winemaker Chris Figgins to show how different terroirs are reflected in his Cabernet Sauvignon. He makes the finest Aglianico you will taste in the Pacific Northwest.

I love the new 2020 Leonetti Cellar Aglianico (OB, 94) which is amazing considering the vintage.  I think that you will be completely enamored by the 2023 Leonetti Cellar ‘Reserve’ Red Wine (OB, 100) which is a perfect wine by them. This is the finest edition of the ‘Reserve’ that I have ever tasted. Learn more about these stunning new wines at http://leonetticellar.com/ Here are my reviews of the beautiful new Leonetti Cellar wines. 

2022 Leonetti Sangiovese- Always 100% varietal and needing an hour in the decanter to fully develop the astonishingly good 2023 Leonetti Sangiovese was stored for 22 months in new and once-filled French oak barrels and neutral oval Botti before bottling. Intriguingly, the last three editions of this wine all come from the Holy Roller, Loess, Seven Hills and Mill Creek Upland Vineyards. It shows off its deep core in the glass, delivering alluring sandalwood and potpourri aromatics alongside wintergreen, tart red fruits and orange peel notes. The palate is rich and viscous — unlike anything you will find in the Pacific Northwest. This has both the weight and finesse to cellar well for at least another fifteen years. Try to resist this beauty for one more year. Drink 2027-2042- 95

2024 Leonetti Merlot- The 2024 Leonetti Merlot also needs considerable time in the decanter if enjoying in its heady youth. Also 100% varietal, this comes from the Loess, Mill Creek Upland and Leonetti Old Block Vineyards. It is loaded with chocolate and Arabica bean flavors that combine with damp earth, cedar, rich dark fruits and gobs of finesse. Like the ’23 Sangiovese, this really does need another year in the bottle — but you can see the incredible potential here. If opening now, consider popping the cork the night before and leaving it in the bottle. Drink 2028-2045- 96

2023 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon- A stunning wine from this warmer vintage, the 2023 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon has a small portion of Petit Verdot and Malbec blended in. It comes from the Mill Creek Upland, Serra Pedace, Loess, Seven Hills and Holy Roller vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley. It stands very inky in the glass, offering intense aromatics of scorched earth, sagebrush and shades of creme de cassis, alongside shades of violets and pencil lead. The palate is extremely gratifying and deep with sensational tension, texture and weight. A total stunner, this just might be the finest edition of this wine that I have tasted. Opulent, broad-shouldered and extremely gratifying to consume, give it at least another year in the bottle to fully evolve. Drink 2027-2050- 98

2023 Leonetti ‘Reserve’ Red Wine- A mesmerizing wine, the 2023 Leonetti ‘Reserve’ melds 83% Cabernet Sauvignon with 14% Malbec and the reminder Petit Verdot. It begins with purple rose petals, tar, Turkish coffee and green herbs from the PV alongside opulent black and blue fruits. The palate is plush and seamless throughout the downright ethereal drinking experience, as this effortlessly glides, showing both sensational weight and poise. You can see each varietal working here with clockwork efficiency. This is the best I have yet tried from Leonetti and eminent winemaker Chris Figgins. Give this remarkable wine at least another year in the bottle. Drink 2028-2055- 100

2020 Leonetti Aglianico- A great wine from a tough vintage, the 2020 Leonnetti Aglianico was stored for 44 months in terracotta amphorae, as well as new and neutral French oak barrels prior to bottling. It is tannic, rich and bold with shades of tar and blueberry compote alongside rocky soils and shades of black licorice on the palate. Considering the vintage this is a resounding success. Drink now. Drink 2026-2030- 94

Pasxa

One of the electric wine brands of the Pacific Northwest, Pasxa focuses on producing wines sourced from the vineyards of The Rocks District of Milton- Freewater. The Pášxa wines were a huge hit right out of the gate, and back in their inaugural 2018 vintage they focused on River Rock Vineyard fruit. They now have an estate program with the 2020 purchase of ‘Rockgarden Vineyard.’ This is a huge development for this program. The wines have been consistently great.

I really love the 2024 Pasxa ‘White Blend’ White Wine (OB, 95) which is very stony and beautifully-textured. Check out the 2023 Pasxa ‘Rockgarden Estate’ Syrah (OB, 95) which has amazing Umami character. Learn more about this truly thrilling new project at pasxa.com Here are the downright

killer new wines by Pášxa.

2024 Pasxa ‘White Blend’ White Wine- The 2024 ‘White Blend’ is a compelling blend of Marsanne and Roussanne. This has terrific viscosity and verve with rich tropical and melon fruits alongside shortbread notes, laden with stony mineralogy. Gorgeous now, enjoy over the next eight plus years. Drink 2026-2034- 95

2023 Pasxa ‘Rockgarden Estate’ Grenache- Another sensational edition of this wine, the 2023 Pasxa ‘Rockgarden Estate’ Grenache opens with cardamom laced ripe strawberry and wet rock with a green herbal edge on the nose. This comes off fresh and viscous with a terrific texture and good sense of weight. Drink 2026-2034- 94

2023 Pasxa ‘River Rock Vineyard’ Grenache- The 2023 ‘River Rock Vineyard’ Grenache opens up with red florals on the nose alongside bright red fruits and citrus rind accents. The palate is fresh and viscous with ultra-pure red fruits with rocky nuances and shades of orange peel. This is already nicely evolved stuff, with a Umami edge. Drink 2026-2032- 94

2023 Pasxa ‘Rockgarden Estate’ Syrah- The downright delicious 2023 Pasxa ‘Rockgarden Estate’ Syrah opens with Hoisin sauce, seaweed and shades of black currants on the nose, with black florals. The palate is fresh and lithe with a polished texture and terrific sense of weight and length. Enjoy this earthy and savory beauty now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2026-2034- 95

The Walls

It is my pleasure to share the great wines of The Walls. The winery is located in Walla Walla and has a beautiful interior and great backyard space. It is an amazing spot for a glass of wine.

WinemakerSally Johnson Blum and Associate Winemaker Suzie Harryman joined the team a few yeas back. Johnson Blum has a massive amount of experience, formerly being at St. Francis and Pride in Sonoma County. She also has served as winemaking consultant at Mullan Road under Dennis Cakebread. She is a great person who also makes a world-class Rose from Napa.

I love the 2023 The Walls ‘Wonderful Nightmare’ (OB, 93) which is a dense and chewy wine made form Tempranillo grapes. I adore the 2023 ‘Curiositas’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 96) which is just as good as last year’s wine, with serious flavor density. Learn more about these outstanding new wines at https://www.thewallsvineyards.com Here are the great new releases from The Walls. 

2023 The Walls ‘The Ramparts’ Red Wine- Sourced from the Yakima Valley is a blend of mainly Grenache and Mourvèdre. Smoked meats, red currants and dried herbs all fill the nose. The palate is soft and elegant with a great core of red fruits alongside meaty and herbal accents. This is very well-done. Drink 2026-2034- 94

2023 The Walls ‘Mahana’ Red Wine- Their Syrah-based wine from The Rocks District, this is a gorgeous, beautifully-textured bottling that is drinking great now. Soy sauce, bacon fat and shades of Umami all fill the nose with suggestions of loganberry compote. The palate is elegant and concentrated with a great core of black fruits with Nori and compote accents. Drink 2026-2034- 94

2023 The Walls ‘Wonderful Nightmare’ Red Wine- The 2023 ‘Wonderful Nightmare’ is a stunning Tempranillo wine from the Walla Walla Valley. This is deep and heady with good stony minerality. Roasted dates, dark cherry and blackberry compote. Neatly textured, with good concentration and length, this is already drinking beautifully. Drink 2025-2031- 93

2022 The Walls ‘Bellamy’ Red Wine- The 2023 The Walls ‘Bellamy’ is all Cabernet Sauvignon from the Walla Walla Valley. This is soft and refined on the mouth. Deep dark fruits parade with wintergreen and milk chocolate notes. Concentrated and showing a smooth mouthfeel, enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2026-2034- 94

2023 The Walls ‘Curiositas’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The stunning 2023 The Walls ‘Curiositas’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from Red Mountain. Concentrated and powerful, this delivers sagebrush, scorched earth and creme de violette on the nose. The palate is complex and powerful with serious finesse and power. Drink 2026-2042- 96

Aubaine

One of the excellent producers of Oregon Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Aubaine focuses on single vineyard and estate only wines  Founder Andy Lytle has a love of Burgundy and Champagne, as he is half of Lytle-Barnett. An iconic winemaker, Isabelle Meunier, has made a range of wines for producers across the Willamette Valley.  Meunier is native of Quebec, and she studied winemaking and viticulture at the University of Dijon in Burgundy, as well as in New Zealand at Lincoln University. Following her eduction she worked at famed producers Felton Road in New Zealand, as well as Dominique Lafon of Domaine des Comtes Lafon.

Isabelle moved to the Willamette Valley in 2007 to work with Evening Land and had incredible success with that program. She later started her own winery venture, LAVINEA, an artisan production of distinctive single-vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. 

I love the 2023 Aubaine ‘Joie’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which is very pretty and shows great viscosity and a core of tart red fruits. Learn more about this outstanding producer at aubainewine.com and here are my reviews of the new Aubaine wines.

2023 Aubaine ‘Anhata Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Lush and delightful, the 2023 ‘Anhata Vineyard’ is loaded with pear and starfruit flavors alongside a soft mouthfeel on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2026-2031- 91

2023 Aubaine ‘Athas’ Chardonnay- A delicious new bottling, the 2023 ‘Athas’ is a single-block wine from the Anhata Vineyard made by famed winemaker Isabelle Meunier. It is rich and viscous with rocky soils alongside rich melon and citrus fruits on the palate. The richness and tension with serious focus indicates this will easily cellar for another ten years. Drink 2026-2036- 93

2023 Aubaine ‘Vreugde’ Chardonnay- The 2023 Aubaine ‘Vreugde’ Chardonnay is also a single block bottling from this warm vintage. This comes off fat and round on the mouth with loads of minerality. Rich cashew nut and melon tones collide with wet stone, crushed white flowers and a lengthy finish. A joy to consume now, enjoy over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2026-2038- 94

2023 Aubaine ‘Anhata Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- A great wine to enjoy now, the 2023 Pinot Noir shows a good melange of black and red fruits on the palate alongside rocky soils and wild mushroom notes. Medium-bodied and fresh, enjoy over the next few years. Drink 2026-2031- 91

2023 Aubaine ‘Joie’ Pinot Noir-Sourced from the Anahata Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills, this 2023 Pinot Noir opens with red flowers and cardamom on the nose alongside red raspberry tones. The palate is soft and delicious as tart red fruits parade with citrus rind and baking spice notes on the palate. Showing a lengthy finish, enjoy this beauty over the next ten years. Drink 2026-2036- 93

TOIL Oregon

It is my pleasure to share the beautiful wines of TOIL and winemaker Chris Figgins. We move onto Oregon today and a winery that has been on the rise. TOIL was founded by Leonetti winemaker Chris Figgins who planted his vineyard in the Willamette Valley roughly a decade ago. Toil Oregon started with a production of 200 cases then in 2016 Chris planted his estate vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. His first wine fully from his estate vineyard was the 2019 Rose.

I love the consistency of these wines. I adored the 2024 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir (OB, 95) which is a dense and concentrated style, with a black and red fruit core, with amazing texture and verve. This is not purely a fruit-bomb but has loads of nuance and finesse. It will surely appeal to those who adore the bigger side of Oregon wine. Learn more about this great winery at toiloregon.com Here are the brilliant new wines by Toil Oregon. 

2024 TOIL Chardonnay- An amazing edition of this wine, the 2024 TOIL Chardonnay was stored in a small portion of new French oak before bottling. It comes off fresh, heady and dense. Yellow plum, gardenia flowers and shades of buttered and baking spice laced sourdough bread all combine on this complex nose. The palate is elegant and seamless throughout the drinking experience, as the terrific flavor density plays with the mouth-watering acidity and glorious length. This is big, bold and delicious Oregon Chardonnay that has a long life ahead of it. Give it about 30 minute sin the decanter if enjoying now. Drink 2026-2038- 95

2024 TOIL Pinot Noir- The 2024 TOIL Pinot Noir is a top-notch effort that was stored in a small amount of new French oak prior to bottling. Black truffle shavings and black raspberry notes fill the nose alongside peat moss and shades of rocky soils. The palate is fresh, viscous and polished as this glides on the mid-palate. Plenty of lip-smacking freshness greets you alongside the concentrated red and dark fruits with earthy accents. A gorgeous bottling in its youth, be sure to give this an hour or two in the decanter if savoring now. Drink 2026-2046- 95

FIGGINS

Today I share one of the great Washington State wines. While A wine like no other, the  FIGGINS ‘Figlia’ is a world-class blend of Merlot and Petit Verdot from the high elevation FIGGINS estate vineyard. For my palate this is the finest PV being made in the state right now. It is wonderfully herbal, inky and concentrated, jam-packed with blue fruits.

I was amazed what Chris Figgins and his team did with the 2022 bottling. Despite the coolness of the vintage, the ’22 was not lacking at all in flavor density. The new 2023 edition comes from a warmer vintage that had few challenges. Easily one of the best ‘Figlia’ wines made, the 2023 ‘Figlia’ (OB, 97) really needs an hour or two in the decanter at this stage. But once aroused it is everything but reticent as it takes you through a spellbinding journey of black and blue fruits with serious depth and weight. Learn more about these fantastic wines at figginswine.com. Here are my reviews of the new 2023 FIGGINS ‘Figlia’ wine.

2023 FIGGINS ‘Figlia’ Red Wine- A world-class follow-up to the gorgeous ’22, the 2023 ‘Figlia’ combines equal parts Merlot and Petit Verdot. I’ve now said for years that the Petit Verdot sourced from the Figgins Estate is the best you will find in Washington State. This really needs about an hour in the decanter before enjoying as it comes off slightly more fleshy and round than the ’22 edition. Once aroused this shows off tar, sweet pipe tobacco and green bell pepper aromatics that combine with pencil lead and chocolate fudge. The palate is impeccably textured, with serious freshness and concentration. Powerful black and blue fruits parade with espresso bean and graphite notes on the palate. With great length and poise, this beauty will easily be a 20 year wine. Drink 2026-2046- 97

Koehler

Today we share the great Koehler wines, one of the really enticing producers of Santa Barbara County. Koehler farms a 40-acre property that includes 50-year-old estate vines. Many serving their viticultural team have been with Koehler Winery for decades. Derek Koehler grew up on the estate and spent a semester in France studying international practices within the wine industry. Today he is in charge of the operations of the family winery.

Wines are made by Trace Brueske and were seriously good across the board. Check out the fabulous 2024 Koehler ‘Santa Barbara County’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which exudes class and value. This is an amazing rendition of good value Santa Barbara Pinot with its salty core of red fruits and is one to buy by the case. Learn more about this outstanding house at https://www.koehlerwinery.com and here are my reviews of the new wines by Koehler Family Wines.

2024 Koehler ‘Santa Barbara County’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the ‘Maria Vista Vineyard’ this 2024 Pinot Noir opens with tart red fruits and sandalwood tones alongside salty soil nuances on the nose. The palate is soft and juicy, brimming with vibrant red fruits alongside damp soil accents. This is already beautifully evolved stuff that is drinking great its heady youth. Buy this by the case! Drink 2026-2032- 93

2023 Koehler ‘Peake Ranch’ Pinot Noir- Another outstanding edition of this wine, the 2023 Koehler ‘Peake Ranch’ Pinot Noir is beautifully-textured and shows great finesse. Bright Bing cherry and red raspberry flavors parade with lavender and salty soils on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next six plus years. Drink 2026-2032- 93

2023 Koehler ‘Peake Ranch’ Grenache- The 2023 Koehler ‘Peake Ranch’ Grenache shows off pretty potpourri tones on the nose with Mandarin orange rind, pomegranate seed and tobacco leaf accents. The palate shows nice finesse and a soft texture on the mouth, brimming with bright and sweet red fruits. Drink 2026-2032- 92

2023 Koehler ‘Ballard Abodes Vineyard’ Grenache- Soft and approachable, the 2023 Koehler ‘Ballard Abodes Vineyard’ Grenache offers forward and juicy red fruits with citrus zest and damp soil notes on the palate, with stony accents. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2026-2031- 91

2023 Koehler ‘Santa Ynez Valley’ Sangiovese- Light tannic, the 2023 Koehler ‘Santa Ynez Valley’ Sangiovese offers sea salt dusted Yakima cherry and loganberry flavors that combine with rocky accents on the palate. Light to medium-bodied, with a soft mouthfeel, enjoy this really well-made Sangio now and over the next few years. Drink 2026-2032- 92

2023 Koehler ‘Sycamore Ranch’ Sangiovese- The 2023 ‘Sycamore Ranch’ Sangiovese shows up translucent in the glass, offering red florals with red lociroce and salty soil notes on the nose. The palate is soft and inviting with a smooth mouthfeel. Drink 2026-2031- 91

2023 Koehler ‘Estate Grown’ Mourvedre- Sourced from old vines at their estate vineyard, this 2023 Mourvèdre was stored in neutral oak for 16 months prior to bottling. Totally translucent in the glass, this delivers good meaty character alongside pretty red fruits on the palate, with excellent freshness and length. Salty and savory, enjoy now and over the next six to eight years. Drink 2026-2032- 93

2023 Koehler ‘Nolan Ranch’ Mencia- Sourced from the ‘Nolan Ranch’ the 2023 Koehler Mencia was stored for 16 months in neutral oak before bottling. Iodine, tar, black cherry and salty nuances all fill the palate. Fresh, vibrant and neatly-textured, enjoy now and over the next six to eight years. Drink 2026-2032- 92

2023 Koehler ‘Ballard Canyon’ Syrah- Quite different than its ‘Whole Cluster’ cousin, the 2023 Koehler ‘Ballard Canyon’ Syrah is more approachable now. A great core of red fruits greets you alongside diatom, wet gravel, charcuterie and red licorice notes on the palate. Complex and delicious, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2026-2034- 93

2023 Koehler ‘Whole-Cluster’ Syrah- Coming from the Ballard Adobes Vineyard, this 100% whole-cluster fermented Syrah delivers concentrated dark fruits on the palate, with tar, green peppercorns, bulls blood and iodine notes alongside salty soil nuances. Full-bodied and intense, give this another year in the bottle to fully develop. Drink 2027-2037- 94

2023 Koehler ‘Happy Canyon’ Cabernet Franc- This 2023 ‘Happy Canyon’ Cabernet Franc is wonderfully herbal on the nose with green bell pepper, exotic spices and dense dark fruits. The palate has a nice graphite edge, with soft tannins that frame a generous core of red and dark fruits, with salty and loamy soil nuances. Drink 2026-2034- 92

2022 Koehler ‘Santa Ynez Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2022 Koehler ‘Santa Ynez Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon delivers medium-bodied dark fruits that mingle with chocolate and anise seed flavors. Enjoy now. Drink 2026-2031- 90

Centennial Mountain

Centennial Mountain Vineyard (formerly known as Æris) is an extraordinary project from the Rhys Vineyards team. The Rhys team has embarked on a new journey bringing Italian grape varieties to California. This is the first vineyard outside of Italy to plant Carricante, a noble white grape from Sicily’s Mt. Etna. Located on a rugged ridgetop in Northern Sonoma County at the borders of Rockpile and Dry Creek Valley, this site has cool nights and a major wind influence.

The new wines were really good across the board. I love the 2022 Centennial Mountain Nebbiolo (OB, 93) which has tons of body and texture with refined tannins. Learn more at https://cmvineyard.com/ and here are my reviews of the new Centennial Mountain wines.

2022 Centennial Mountain Carricante- This 2022 Carricante comes from vines set on shallow schist soils. It opens up with aromatics of green apple, lemon grass, and kiwi. The palate is fresh and neatly textured with plenty of mouthwatering acidity despite the heat of the vintage. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next five plus years. Trying to make it a shiny as possible yeah stand up national television don’t deserve to be Drink 2026-2032- 92

2022 Centennial Mountain Nebbiolo- translucent in the glass this 2022 Nebiolo offer sour cherry and red raspberry aromatic alongside red rose petals. The pallet is soft, inviting with a smooth texture and grey tannins that frame of core of bright red fruits with Bergamont tones. Drink 2026-2036- 93

2022 Centennial Mountain Nerello Mascalese- The really good 2022 Centennial Mountain Nerello Mascalese opens with potpourri, white pepper and sour cranberry notes on the nose. The palate is inviting, rich and beautifully textured, as this glides throughout the drinking experience. Drink 2026-2036- 93

Kerr Cellars

Today we share the beautiful wines of Kerr Cellars, founded back in 2013 by professional golfing icon and sommelier Cristie Kerr. Cristie first fell in love with wine on a visit to Napa Valley in 2000. She was seduced by the tranquil hills, rustic old-world charm, and extraordinary ‘Old World’ wines. Seven years later, Cristie joined forces with Suzanne Pride Bryan of Pride Mountain Vineyards to create Curvature Wines. Curvature is a range of boutique wines whose profits support breast cancer research. Showered with praise upon release, Curvature Wines found immediate industry acclaim. The wines were featured on the lists at distinguished restaurants, clubs, cellars, and even served at the White House. Building on Curvature’s success, Cristie launched Kerr Cellars in 2013 with partner Erik Stevens and highly acclaimed winemaker Helen Keplinger.

The new wines were fantastic across the board. I adored the 2023 Kerr ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which shows amazing salty character from this region that neighbors the Pacific Ocean. Check out the stunning 2023 Kerr ‘Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 99) which flirts with perfection and has amazing tension and flavor density from this slightly cooler vintage in Napa. Learn more about these great wines at kerrcellars.com and here are my reviews of the new wines by Kerr.

2024 Kerr ‘Napa Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2023 Kerr Sauvignon Blanc offers freshly cut grass and Key lime on the nose alongside damp wet rock. The palate is neatly textured and shows excellent length and terrific flavor density. Don’t serve too warm! Drink 2026-2031- 92

2023 Kerr ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay- The outstanding 2023 ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay is a brilliant new wine by winemaker Helen Keplinger. Stored for 12 months in 33% new French oak before bottling, this opens with a bright bouquet of ripe peach and pastry crust alongside shades of orange blossom. The palate is neatly textured and rich with great melon and citrus fruit flavors at its core. Delicious now, enjoy over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2026-2033- 93

2023 Kerr ‘5 Wells Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from the Sonoma Coast AVA, the 5 Wells Vineyard was started back in 2015 by Crawford and Jane Selina Kwon Wells of Sebastopol. Baking spices and mango notes mark the nose alongside suggestions of salted french bread. The palate is soft and inviting, as this opens with serious tension and texture — coming up seamless throughout the drinking experience. Enjoy this brilliant new 2023 Chardonnay now and over the next ten years. Drink 2026-2035- 94

2023 Kerr ‘Rued Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The acclaimed Rued Vineyard is located in the Sonoma Coast AVA. Stored in mainly natural French oak for 16 months, this shows off a silky mouthfeel throughout the drinking experience. A beam of finesse follows the entry alongside passionfruit, guava and rich honeydew melon flavors, with salted macadamia nut nuances. Stony and salty, with terrific freshness, enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2026-2035- 94

2023 Kerr ‘Silver Eagle Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Originally planted by famed Sonoma grower Ulises Valdez, the Silver Eagle Vineyard is a Sonoma Coast location that is set on a unique combination of Goldridge mix with red shale soils. Showing off its dark core in the glass, you are greeted to a great melange of black and red fruits on the nose with cola and fresh sage accents. The palate is rich and viscous with amazing tension and salty nuance. Highly enjoyable now in its heady youth, watch this evolve over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2026-2040- 95

2023 Curvature Red Wine- A really great glass of wine for the price, the 2023 Curvature Red Wine is dark in the glass, offering black tea and middle eastern spice aromatics that pair well with a rich core of dark fruits and dark chocolate shavings. The palate is rich and viscous with a silky mouthfeel and terrific sense of tension. Terrific now, enjoy this beautiful red blend now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2026-2034- 93

2023 Kerr Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2023 Kerr Cabernet Sauvignon opens with chocolate cake, tar, anise and loamy soils on the nose. The palate is fresh and inviting with a smooth mouthfeel. Terrific now, enjoy over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2026-2033- 92

2023 Kerr ‘Wappo Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2023 ‘Wappo Vineyard’ stands very dark in the glass, delivering heady aromatics of sandalwood, anise, black currant jelly and violets that all take shape in the glass. The palate is rich and silky with a refined texture and great sense of weight and finesse. This has some serious aging potential. Gorgeous now, caressed by refined tannins, enjoy over the next twenty years to come. Drink 2026-2046- 96

2023 Kerr ‘Mast Ranch Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Mast Ranch Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from a slightly cooler location that is set on silt loamy soils with some alluvial rock that is highly influenced by the San Pablo Bay. Scorched earth and Black Forest Cake notes combine with menthol accents on the nose. The palate is powerful and concentrated with a fabulous melange of black and blue fruits, with great volcanic soil character. Generous and broad-shouldered, with terrific depth and underlying tension, watch this evolve over the next two decades to come. Drink 2026-2046- 97

2023 Kerr ‘Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A sensational wine from this famed location, the 2023 Kerr ‘Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from this Oakville vineyard set on loamy soils. This comes off super seamless throughout the drinking experience. Damp soils combine with creme de cassis, sweet pipe tobacco, dark chocolate shavings, Asian spices and pencil lead notes on the palate. The Oakville character really shines through here. Nothing short of a world-class bottling, this is the finest that I have tasted from Kerr yet. Enjoy now and over the next two decades. Drink 2026-2046- 99

2023 Kerr ‘Beckstoffer Bourn Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The dazzling 2023 ‘Beckstoffer Bourn Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from this St. Helena location and was stored in 16 Months in all new French oak prior to bottling. Well-structured and viscous, with serious tension, this is just a joy to consume now. Graphite, creme de violette and Turkish coffee flavors all emerge alongside great loamy soil character. Full-bodied and intense, enjoy over the next several decades to come. Drink 2026-2046- 98

2023 Kerr ‘Heilcon Sage Ridge Vineyard’ Red Wine- The 2023 ‘Helicon’ combines 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 20% Cabernet Franc, 18% Merlot, and a splash of Petit Verdot from the acclaimed Sage Ridge Vineyard. It is beautifully balanced stuff, with fresh herbs that combine with damp rocky soils, tar, menthol and heady black and blue fruits. Showing beautifully now, enjoy over the next ten to fifteen years to come. Drink 2026-2041- 96

Sagemoor

Today we share the wines of Sagemoor. Kent Waliser, is the face of Sagemoor Vineyards who has a longstanding history in the wine industry. Today he relies on general manager Danny Gordon who had a 24-year history with Tamarack Cellars. Speaking with Gordon, he described the wines and vintages. Speaking with Danny and Kent, they shared their thoughts about the new wines. “These are wines that are drinking nicely and it is really fun because you have vineyards blended, separated, and three vineyards from the White Bluffs. And they are all different” said Danny. “The winemaking is consistent across the wines but it brings out the unique properties” said Kent. Aryn Morrell makes the wines “And does everything in the winery.” He has served as winemaker since 2021. “We are working on the DTC program to intrigue people with the Cabernet from the different sites and that was put in place before Danny came on board.”

The 2022 wines had excellent flavor density despite the coolness of the vintage. To achieve this Kent noted “We didn’t do as much with Southwind. ’22 was a big crop and the last big crop in Washington. In the case of Weinbau it really started in the vineyard because Miguel Rodriguez who has been there for 30 years, he recognized that he had way more clusters than what he was going to need and he did something and had to get these clusters off before fruit set. And I am going to take my chances not getting the fruit set. When he was shoot thinning he was also cluster thinning and he got the crop down early.” He continued “We did fruit removal at bloom because when I saw this we had to do this everywhere. We were taking unfertilized clusters off which told the plant that we had less fruit to begin with.”Kent noted that “other wineries who got fruit from Weinbau in ’22 would have had the same treatment, got the vines thinned just like we did.”

The wines show good balance and poise which is something very intentional by GM Danny Gordon for the wine program. He explained “Flavors are great, it is about getting the mouthfeel, texture and balance of the wine right. I think that is a big focus of what we are doing there, we are letting the flavors naturally occur and then in the winemaking we are trying for that same richness and mouthfeel across the wines.”

The new releases are Cabernet wines from across Washington State, including several from their estate. Check out the delicious 2022 Sagemoor ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 93) which is mainly old vine Cabernet and is beautiful to enjoy now. Learn more about these great wines at https://sagemoorestates.com and here are my notes on the new wines by Sagemoor. 

2022 Sagemoor ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The delicious 2022 ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ comes mostly from Block 3 and Block 4a, as this opens with dark florals, kirsch and Arabica bean notes. The palate is elegant and refined with a smooth mouthfeel and loads of dense dark fruits with chocolate and espresso grounds. Drink 2026-2042- 93

2022 Sagemoor ‘Gamache Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced mainly from Block 3 in the vineyard, the 2022 ‘Gamache Vineyard’ offers violets and tar on the nose alongside shades of black tea and exotic spice. The palate is soft and elegant with a smooth viscosity and mouthfeel. Drink 2026-2042- 93

2022 Sagemoor ‘Dionysus Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from these old vine Cabernet plantings in the White Bluffs AVA, the 2022 ‘Dionysus Vineyard’ shows concentrated black and blue fruits on the palate, with tar and sweet pope tobacco. Great to enjoy now, watch this evolve over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2026-2042- 94

2021 Sagemoor ‘Weinbau Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from this location in the Wahluke Slope AVA, this mainly comes from Weinbau W.63 in the vineyard. This comes off soft and elegant with medium-bodied red cherry and black raspberry notes alongside dusty soils on the palate. Drink 2026-2040- 93

2021 Sagemoor ‘Bacchus/Dionysus Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming from both these sites in the White Bluffs AVA, this 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon opens with dried herbs and cassis notes on the nose with chocolate and sandalwood accents. The palate is well-balanced and soft with medium-bodied red and dark fruits with hints of chocolate fudge. Drink 2026-2040- 92

2021 Sagemoor ‘Southwind Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘Southwind Vineyard’ comes from this location in the Walla Walla Valley. This is soft and medium-bodied with ripe red and dark fruits alongside chocolate and coffee grounds. Drink 2026-2042- 93

Champagne Henriot

It is my pleasure to share an ancient Champagne house that dates all the way back to 1808. Champagne Henriot starts its story with Apolline Henriot, a young widow of Nicolas Henriot, who founded Maison Henriot as she was a vineyard owner who had a great love for the region. Then fast forward to 1880, Apolline Henriot’s great grandson, Paul Henriot, married a young woman from the Côte des Blancs, Marie Marguet. This marriage gave way to a real transition of the Maison Henriot’s vineyards. Initially composed exclusively of three crus from the Montagne de Reims planted with Pinot Noir, three crus planted with Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs were added: Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, and Chouilly.

Located in Reims, Henriot is currently run by the 8th generation of the family. Gilles de Larouzière Henriot, succeeded his uncle Joseph in 2015 and became President of Maisons & Domaines Henriot. The Henriot family also owns Bouchard Pere & Fils, William Vevre and Chateau de Poncie. The new wines were seriously good. I love the new 2015 Champagne Henriot ‘Brut’ Champagne (OB, 94) which is a delight to savor now. Learn more about this famed champagne house at https://www.champagne-henriot.com and here are the beautiful new releases by Champagne Henriot.

NV Champagne Henriot Brut Souverain- The really enjoyable NV ‘Brut Souverain’ offers a soft mousse with marzipan, green apple and cashew nut nuances on the palate, alongside stony minerals. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2026-2032- 91

NV Champagne Henriot ‘Brut Rose’ Champagne- A great edition of this wine, the NV Champagne Henriot ‘Brut Rose’ Champagne is wonderfully earthy on the palate. Shiitake mushroom and damp soil tones combine with tart red fruits and citrus rind accents on the palate. Enjoy this outstanding Rose now and over the next seven plus years to come. Drink 2026-2033- 92

2015 Champagne Henriot ‘Brut’ Champagne- A gorgeous new vintage Champagne, the 2015 ‘Brut’ is near equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir coming from only premier cru and grand cru sites. This saw more than eight years on the lees prior to disgorgement, opening with honeysuckle, toasted almond and shades of baking spice laced shortbread on the nose. The palate is round and generous with terrific freshness, texture and overall balance. Delightful now, enjoy over the next decade. Drink 2026-2036- 94

Barefoot Wines Takes Over NFL Stadiums: Bad News For Consumers

I don’t drink beer nor do I particularly enjoy beer. If I attend an NFL game, I don’t want a beer — I want a glass of decent wine. I’m not even looking for Opus One in the stadium, but merely a palatable wine choice. In their home at Oracle Park the San Francisco Giants pay a Master Sommelier to curate wine for their concessions. Most people are not searching for master somm’s help but merely desire decent glass of wine that is not deplorable to drink. Barefoot Bubbly, a cheap sparking wine at roughly 10 bucks SRP, costs more than 40 bucks in Seahawks Stadium. I find it to be an essentially undrinkable sparkling wine. Let’s just say that I wouldn’t make a mimosa with this wine. Tapped & Corked, the Seahawks Stadium ‘Wine Bar’ (in Sections 119, 139) only serves Barefoot Wines. This leaves the consumer with no adequate wine at all games if you are not paying extra for club level seats.
For those who are wine lovers and attending NFL games, this is a pretty grim time. I remember going to games more than ten years ago and having no decent wine at the games. The current situation in 2026 is completely anachronistic. NFL stadiums are being inundated with Gallo’s Barefoot Wines brand. In 2022 Barefoot Wines became the official wine brand of the NFL and Barefoot has a US volume of more than 18 million cases annually. This is a lot of financial power and they have slowly been kicking out other wine brands from the stadium, creating essentially a monopoly. Gone from Seahawks Stadium are local wines from Dunham Cellars, Andrew Januik, Januik, Sparkman and L’Ecole No 41. You won't find local wines from Napa and Sonoma at 49ers games either unless you're in a suite. Barefoot utilizes celebrity voices such as Donna Kelce and Simone Biles in their advertisements. I don’t understand this stadium Barefoot monopoly other than being purely driven by cash. As an example, the NFL has an official beer but the beer does not have a monopoly on the stadium.
Washington has a vibrant wine culture and is one of the United State’s top regions for high quality wines at a good price. Despite this, Seahawks Stadium has chosen to not have any Washington wine for patrons not seated at Club Level. While you can’t get decent wine for normal seats at Seahawks Stadium, according to L’Ecole No. 41 COO Ryan Pennington, L’Ecole wines remain in the club level at Seahawks stadium. Pennington agrees with my sentiments that you don’t want to see “people forced to drink Gallo in Washington wine country.” Suites at LA’s SoFi stadium have some top wines . But you don’t see these wines at their concessions for non-suite patrons. The same is true at San Francisco’s Levi’s Stadium that serve Wine Spritzers and they don’t have any decent wine options if you are not seated at the suite level. California Wine Country must be disgusted by 49ers fans not seated in the suite levels actually having only one wine choice -- Barefoot Wines out of a milk carton!
The Barefoot Wines takeover is not only an issue in West Coast stadiums but other parts of the United States suffer this same fate. Gone from New Orleans Saints games are the fun and chic Veuve Clicquot vendors with matching stemware. This has been replaced with wine racks filled with Barefoot Wines! I used to adore the wine experience at the Superdome in New Orleans where they always had a really nice range of wines that was consistent with their enophile culture.
Mel Evans and Jon Celino, Saints fans and New Orleans natives have seen this Barefoot takeover first hand. Evans explained “You spent the extra money to be in the club section and you only can have Barefoot. This is why we buy the club seats, to have nice wine options, and this year the only wine was Barefoot. This was across the board in the entire Superdome.” Evens mentioned “The Superdome hired a new company this year and a lot of major changes were made, including no New Orleans foods anymore. Gone are Gumbo and Jambalaya.” She and Celino enjoy wine at home and like most people expect to receive a premium product for a premium price when they buy their club level seats. Evans explained “we paid to come to the game and you feel ripped off. I refused to drink Barefoot I really only drink wine so not having wine as an option makes the experience at the game less enjoyable.” Last year the Superdome had a much better range of offerings for wine “And now they only had Barefoot” she noted.
Evans and Celino find this against the culture of New Orleans to serve cheap wine. “And we are a huge food and wine city. I shared this issue [Barefoot Wines issue] on Facebook with the Saints and called out the Superdome and a person actually reached out to me and said that they have changed companies and this is all they will get [with no clear explanation]. The rest of the season nothing changed, only Barefoot wines.” She explained “The NFL has an official beer but you don’t take away all beer options at the stadium. This situation is definitely not worth the price, you don’t get what you pay for with the club tickets. Premium ticket and given a bottom shelf choice. I don’t want to leave the game with a headache.”
Met Life Stadium, home of the NFL’s Jets and Giants in New Jersey also has been dealing with the Barefoot stadium takeover. Unless you are at the club or suite level, Met Life Stadium doesn’t even have a wine bar (https://www.metlifestadium.com/plan-your-visit/dining-options-locations). This obviously goes against New York being one of the world’s epicenters for wine.

In truth, companies do things for money and sometimes the consumer doesn’t get the better end of the deal. Such is the case with the Barefoot Wines takeover in NFL stadiums, leaving the consumer without any decent wine options for those paying hundreds upon hundreds of dollars for their game tickets.

Opus One

Today we share one of Napa’s most famous wineries.  A famed partnership between Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Opus One crafted their first vintage in 1979. At the time Opus One was the first ultra-premium California wine to be sold in France and Internationally.  Opus One produces only one wine and a second wine (Overture) – both of which are typically a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Opus One sources from four estate vineyards. This includes two sites comprising roughly 100 acres within the famed ‘To Kalon Vineyard’ and their ‘Ballestra’ and ‘River’ parcels comprising 70 acres which envelop the winery.  

I recently had an Opus One from the 1980s that was still showing brilliantly. These wines cellar 20 years or more easily. I was blown away with the new 2022 Opus One (OB, 97) which is one of the most impressive wines from this vintage that I have tasted. This beauty is already showing so well. During the tasting I had the chance to taste the scintillating 2012 Opus One (OB, 99) which flirts with perfection and is really coming into its own. Learn more about Opus One at http://www.opusonewinery.com/ Here are my notes of the gorgeous releases by Opus One.

2012 Opus One Red Wine- The 2012 Opus One is a stunning rendition of this wine that is glorious now at the thirteen year mark. This is delightfully Bordelaise on the nose with red bell pepper, green peppercorns and shades of red currants. This is seamless wine throughout the drinking experience. Soft, with loads of tension, richness and salty nuance, this is a totally head-turning wine that will continue to live on for at least another ten to fifteen years. Drink 2025-2040- 99

2019 Opus One Red Wine- The 2019 Opus One is really coming into its own right now. This is marvelously herbal offering bay leaf tones on the nose with orange bell pepper, tar, anise and tobacco leaf. The palate is lush and round with a refined texture and great sense of tension. Creme de cassis and violets mark the palate alongside mocha and a graphite edge. Drink 2025-2045- 98

2022 Opus One Red Wine- The sensational 2022 Opus One is a brilliant wine from a challenging vintage. Kirsch, red florals and dark currants combine with damp loamy soils and red bell pepper notes on the nose. The palate is plush and polished with serious texture with serous poise and body. A sensational achievement in 2022, this has to be one of the great wines from the vintage. This is remarkably good to enjoy now. Drink 2025-2040- 97

2022 Opus One ‘Overture’ Red Wine- The 2022 ‘Overture’ is now the second year that they have made this as a vintage wine. It is well-textured and fresh wine with loads of dark fruits and espresso ground flavors alongside good verve. Drinking beautifully now, enjoy now and over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2025-2035- 94

Upchurch Vineyard

Today we share the outstanding wines of one of Red Mountain’s greats.  This is also one of the most gorgeous spots to taste in the Pacific Northwest, with sweeping views of the Columbia Valley. Chris Upchurch is a legendary winemaker, having crafted an incredible range of wines for DeLille Cellars before starting his first outpost more than a decade ago. He now has an outpost in Woodinvlle that is right in the town center, near the new Somm Hotel.

He is now making a gorgeous Cheinin Blanc from the Yakima Valley. I love the 2024 Upchurch Vineyard Chenin Blanc (OB, 93) which is rich and viscous with good verve. I was blown away with the thrilling 2023 Upchurch Vineyard ‘Hero Twins’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 99) which flirts with perfection and has such a long way to go in the cellar. Learn more about this fantastic winery at https://upchurchvineyard.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Upchurch Vineyard.

2024 Upchurch Vineyard Chenin Blanc- Sourced from a location near the Boushey Vineyard, the 2024 Chenin Blanc offers nutty nuances with green papaya and mango notes on the palate. The textural elements from the partial malolactic fermentation are really nice. This is dense and refreshing stuff that is best enjoyed over the next six years. Drink 2026-2032- 93

2023 Upchurch Vineyard ‘Hero Twins’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2023 ‘Hero Twins’ is all Clone 2 estate Cabernet Sauvignon from the Upchurch Vineyard. Stored in all new French oak (Taransaud and Icon), this comes together beautifully on the nose with gorgeous red and dark florals alongside cedar, Asian spices and suggestions of dark chocolate shavings. The palate is utterly stunning as this glides throughout the drinking experience with loads of mouth-watering acidity and fabulous flavor density. This will easily be a 20 year wine. Drink 2026-2046- 99

Beringer

It was 2002 and my first visit to Beringer Vineyards. I was enamored by the history of the property and how consistently good the wines were — even at the entry level. 23 years later I once again visited this famed property that is one of the oldest wineries in California, dating all the way back to the 1860s.

It was such a pleasure tasting with winemaker Margo Van Staaveren. She actually began her winemaking career at Beringer and has more than 45 harvests of experience. She made some incredible wines for Chateau St. Jean for years.

The new wines were dense, rich and full of finesse. I love the 2023 ‘Private Reserve’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) which is dense and heady stuff with a lengthy finish. Don’t miss out on the stunning 2021 Beringer ‘Private Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 97) which is amongst the finest editions of this wine that I have tasted. Learn more about these awesome wines at beringer.com Here are the awesome new premium wines by Beringer Vineyards.

2023 Beringer “Private Reserve’ Chardonnay- A stunning, more nervy edition of this wine, the 2023 ‘Private Reserve’ offers dense brioche and pineapple flavors alongside yellow plum and great freshness on the palate. Drink 2025-2032- 95

2023 Beringer ‘Borrow Pit Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from the Oakville AVA, the 2023 ‘Borrow Pit’ comes from younger vines set on gravel and loam that is right across the fence from Screaming Eagle. The first harvest from this site was back in 2015. Once on the nose this shows dark currants alongside tar, bay leaf and shades of black licorice. The palate has great loamy soil character alongside blackberry compote and graphite with good elegance. Drink 2025-2040- 95

2021 Beringer ‘Ste. Helena Home Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 Beringer ‘Ste. Helena Home Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from a slightly warmer site that is at the winery and across the street from the winery. This has fennel and black raspberry notes on the palate, with terrific finesse and great damp soil character. Lifted and bright with loads of tension and mouth-watering acidity, enjoy now and over the next fifteen years. Drink 2025-2040- 95

2021 Beringer ‘Chabot Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A beautiful expression of Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2021 ‘Chabot Vineyard’ delivers bright acidity and a seamless mouthfeel throughout the drinking experience. Desne dark fruits collide with dark chocolate shavings and Arabica bean with loamy soils on the palate. A joy to enjoy now, savor this beauty over the next fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2025-2040- 95

2021 Beringer ‘Bancroft Ranch’ Cabernet Sauvignon - Coming from this high elevation location on Howell Mountain set on volcanic soils, the 2021 ‘Bancroft Ranch’ are now older, 30 plus year old vines. This is seamless upon entry with a silky mouthfeel. Green herbs, orange bell pepper and blackberry compote flavors mingle well with gravel with great tension. Drink 2025-2040- 95

2021 Beringer ‘Private Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 201 ‘Private Reserve’ is a stunning wine that shows loads of aging potential. This is deep, concentrated and intense wine that has loads of cellaring potential. Once on the nose this shows off sandalwood notes alongside anise and creme de cassis notes. The palate is intense and downright delicious with firm tannins that frame a dizzying array of black fruits with espresso grounds and gravel soils. Drink 2025-2045- 97

Hertelendy

Today we share the incredible journey of Ralph Hertelendy. Originally from Hungary, Hertelendy settled down in the San Francisco Bay Area. Born to be an enophile, he was 15 when he created his first beer and then made his first wine in a basement at age 25. After getting his business degree from the University of San Francisco, Ralph became a sommelier and worked for several wineries in the Napa Valley as a Winemaker’s Assistant and in sales.

Phillip Titus, one of Napa’s great winemakers, crafts these wines to be big, dense and loaded with flavor complexity. A graduated of the famed UC Davis Enology and Viticulture program, Titus began his focus on viticulture and wine at the age of 12 when he began helping his father in the family vineyard.

Hertelendy made amazing wines in 2022. The 2023 wines are even better. I adore the 2023 Hertelendy ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Franc (OB, 96) which is already drinking so beautifully and has loads of texture and flavor range. The best Chardonnay I have tasted from this house, their 2023 ‘Woolsey Road’ (OB, 95) is concentrated, performed and exudes class. Learn more about this famed Napa house at https://hertelendy.com/ and here are the outstanding new wines by Hertelendy.

2023 Hertelendy ‘Woolsey Road Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Better and more finesse-driven than the ’22, the 2023 ‘Woolsey Road Vineyard’ comes from this esteemed location in Russian River Valley. Golden in the glass, this comes off dense and delicious with a seamless mouthfeel and glorious length. Rich pineapple and mango parade with saline drenched peach, baking spice laced pastry crust and shades of Macadamia nut on the palate. Downright delicious to enjoy now, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next eight plus years. Drink 2026-2034- 95

2023 Hertelendy ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2023 ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir was aged in both new and neutral oak barrels prior to bottling. Juicy raspberry and Yakima cherry combine on the nose with salted walnut tones. The palate is elegant and shows gorgeous soil character, alongside bright cranberry and guava fruits, with cola accents. Complex and neatly-textured, enjoy over the next ten years. Drink 2026-2036- 95

2022 Hertelendy ‘Audere’ Red Wine- The 2023 ‘Audere’ combines Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot and Malbec, all sourced from the Napa Valley. Inky in the glass, this shows off black tea, Middle Eastern spices and dark rose petals on the nose. The palate is powerful and well-structured with terrific weight and refined tannins. Loads of chocolate and espresso bean flavors collide with dense dark fruits. Juicy and delicious, enjoy over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2026-2036- 94

2023 Hertelendy ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Franc- A delightful bottling, the 2023 Hertelendy ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Franc has a portion of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. This is decadent and delicious stuff that is already drinking beautifully. Arabica bean and huckleberry compote flavors meld well with graphite, Provencale herbs and refined tannins on the palate. Full-bodied and filled with salty minerality, enjoy now and over the next fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2026-2042- 96

2023 Hertelendy ‘Signature Mountain Red Blend’ Red Wine- The incredible 2023 Hertelendy ‘Signature Mountain Red Blend’ Red Wine is a sensational combination of Merlot and Cabernet Franc that was stored in nearly all new French oak before bottling. Alluring right away, this offers cedar and potpourri aromatics alongside wet gravel and shades of sweet pipe tobacco. The palate is harmonious and rich with refined tannins and great viscosity as this Right Bank-inspired blend is already drinking beautifully. Enjoy now and over the next fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2026-2042- 96

2023 Hertelendy ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Another world-class edition of this wine, the 2023 Hertelendy ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon was stored in a combination of manly new French and Hungarian Oak barrels prior to bottling. This is beautifully-expressive in its heady youth. Red and dark florals parade with Turkish coffee, cardamom dusted black fruits and dark chocolate shavings on the nose. The palate is silky and soft on the approach as this glides throughout the drinking experience. Voluptuous, sturdy and dense, enjoy this outstanding bottling now and over the next fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2026-2042- 96

2023 Hertelendy ‘Napa Valley’ Malbec- Admittedly, this is the first edition of this wine I have tasted. The 2023 ‘Napa Valley’ Malbec is beautifully-perfumed stuff with loads of pencil lead, blue fruits and violets on the nose. The palate is powerful and poised with serious tension and salty/stony minerality. Intense blackberry and huckleberry flavors combine with Turkish coffee and exotic spices on the palate. A joy to consume now, enjoy over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2026-2042- 96

2023 Hertelendy ‘Legend’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A gorgeous edition of this wine, the 2023 Hertelendy ‘Legend’ is world-class Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine that was stored in nearly all new French and Hungarian oak. Very inky in the glass, this is opulent and decadent stuff on the mid-palate. Dark currants and creme de violette combine with tar and wet loamy soils on the palate. A delight to savor in its heady youth, watch this evolve over the next two decades. Drink 2026-2046- 97

Interview of Court Wyckoff, CEO of Wyckoff Farms

Court Wyckoff was one of the friendliest people I met at Whitman College. I had a great time getting to know Court and his brother, Tygh during my four years at Whitman. Tygh was also a tennis player and we had a lot in common. Court and Tygh’s family business, Wyckoff Farms has recently purchased Washington’s largest winery, Chateau Ste. Michelle. It is quite a full-circle feeling being able to interview Court.

Court and his family have deep roots in the Washington wine industry, selling grapes to Ste. Michelle for decades and planting their own vineyard in the late 1970s. For years Ste. Michelle also made a single vineyard Chardonnay from the Wyckoff Vineyard. It is very exciting that this winery is once again family owned by a Washington family. Court is a great guy to interview as he talks wine with me. I think you will very much enjoy hearing his story in wine. Here is my exclusive interview with Court Wyckoff, CEO of Wykoff Farms.

OB: Can you talk about your first involvement in Washington wine?

CW: I’ve been connected to the Washington wine industry from a very young age. My father planted his first wine grapes in 1978, just a year after I was born, and started making wine in the early 1980s. Growing up, I spent many summers working in our vineyards, doing just about every job you can imagine during the summer season. I also had the privilege of meeting and learning from many great winemakers who worked with Coventry Vale.

I have fond memories of traveling with my father to Chateau Ste. Michelle for meetings with Allen Shoup and later Ted Baseler. I have been fortunate to have been involved in the Washington wine industry all of my life.

OB: How does your background as a lawyer help you with running Washington’s largest winery?

CW: Thanks for the question.  As a fellow Whitman alumni, we were both fortunate to attend a smaller liberal arts undergraduate college that taught us to think critically and expansively. My going to law school at Seattle University was a natural extension of this undergraduate experience.  Certainly the skill sets gained from a legal education are particularly helpful in many facets of business, but as it pertains to the practice of law I leave that to the great legal professionals whom I have had the privilege of working with, including Scott MacCormick, Managing Partner of Holland & Knight, who represented us on our purchase of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.

OB: What has it been like working with Chateau Ste. Michelle over the years?

CW: While the last several years have been challenging for Ste. Michelle and the communities that it supports, including growers, I think it is important to remember the decades of success we all experienced with Ste. Michelle and the bright future ahead.  Many families, including mine, have benefited from a tremendously positive relationship with Ste. Michelle and we look forward to a promising future being a part of the largest and most iconic winery in Washington and the Pacific Northwest.  Ste. Michelle has an impressive executive and leadership team and we are committed to supporting the growth initiatives that are in place.

OB: I was in the Qatar First Lounge in Doha and saw the 2015 Chateau Ste. Michelle ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon on their wine list. It was amazing to see Washington wine on an international scale. Do you think Chateau Ste. Michelle has great potential for global expansion?

CW: Absolutely. Ste. Michelle is already well-known nationally and internationally as one of the leading wineries in the U.S., offering exceptional quality and value. Our goal is to build on that reputation and elevate the brand’s prestige with innovative brand strategies like the recent refresh of the Chateau Ste. Michelle label, as well as focusing on enhancing the luxury portfolio. At the same time, we’re doubling down on the Chateau experience itself, investing in campaigns to raise awareness of the winery, and capitalizing on plans to make the amazing property an even greater destination.

OB: What is your cellar like, and what are some of your favorite wines in the world?

CW: I’m a passionate supporter of Washington wines. While I enjoy a luxury bottle of Washington Cabernet now and then, my everyday go-to is Chateau Ste. Michelle Chardonnay and Cabernet from the Columbia Valley. The combination of exceptional quality and price is hard to beat.

Fidelitas

It is my pleasure to share one of the great houses on Red Mountain. Fidelitas began with legendary Washington winemaker Charlie Hoppes and his vision to focus on making red wines from this famed AVA. Hoppes formerly served as former head winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle. Prior to working at Chateau Ste. Michelle, he attended the world renowned Viticulture and Enology program at the University of California, Davis and in 1988 he graduated with a degree in Agricultural Science and Management with a special emphasis in Viticulture and Enology. He had a short stint in Walla Walla in 1990 at Waterbrook Winery, he began working with Mike Januik as a member of the winemaking team at Ste. Michelle in Woodinville. In 1993, he became the Head Red Winemaker and managed Ste. Michelle’s newest facility at the time, Canoe Ridge near Paterson, Washington. Hoppes had the pleasure of making the first vintages of Col Solare, from 1995-1998. Hoppes finally decided to purchase some land on Red Mountain, founding Fidelitas in 2000 -- and has produced fantastic reds and whites since that time. Fidelitas is known for their red and white Bordeaux blends, as well as their rich Cabernets. 

He has a deft touch with his white wines and I love the new 2024 ‘Optu’ White Wine (OB, 94) which is generous and has fabulous flavor range. Don’t miss out on the 2023 ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Malbec (OB, 95) which is pound for pound one of the finest Malbecs made in this state. Learn more about the great Fidelitas lineup at http://www.fidelitaswines.com/ Here are the great new wine releases from Fidelitas.

2024 Fidelitas ‘Optu White’ White Wine- The 2024 ‘Optu White’ combines Sauvignon Blanc (66%) with the remainder Semillon, mainly sourced from the Artz Vineyard. Stored in 22% new French oak, this shows toasted hazelnut notes on the nose alongside papaya, white peach and shades of lemon cream. The palate is soft and elegant with a terrific mouthfeel and good sense of weight and length. This is delicious, elegant Bordeaux-inspired white wine that has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2026-2033- 94

2023 Optu Red Wine- The 2023 Optu Red Wine combines 0% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 8% Petit Verdot. This is the first edition of this wine that is entirely sourced from their estate vineyard. This was stored in a small amount of new American oak before bottling as well as 50% new French oak barrels. Tobacco and wintergreen notes mark the nose alongside dark currants, tar and graphite. The palate is fresh and viscous with a great sense of mouthfeel and texture, as each varietal works in clockwork unison. Drink 2025-2035- 94

2023 Fidelitas ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2023 ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon this was stored in all new French oak before bottling. The nose is perfumed with violets, scorched earth, anise and black raspberry cordial. The palate is rich and refined with a silky texture and glorious weight and finesse. A generous, broad-shouldered bottling, with refined tannins, that has a long way to go in the cellar, enjoy now and over the next fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2026-2042- 95

2023 Fidelitas ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Malbec- The brilliant 2023 Fidelitas ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Malbec is a glass-staining purple. 100% varietal, Dark chocolate shavings, anise, black currants and tar nets all combine on the nose. The palate is velvety and smooth with a silky texture and wonderful opulence. Dense and decadent, with great structure, enjoy now and  over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2026-2042- 95

2023 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Cabernet Franc- This is the only Cabernet Franc that Fideitas makes from Red Mountain. 100% varietal, this was stored for 22 months in all neutral French oak before bottling. Potpourri and loganberry notes collide with orange bell pepper on the nose. The palate is complex, dense and delicious with a seamless mouthfeel and glorious length. Stony and salty nuances round out this stunning Cabernet Franc. Drink 2026-2045- 95

2023 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2023 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Cabernet Sauvignon was stored in mainly new French oak (74%) and comes from four blocks in the vineyard. Fidelitas has made Cabernet from this location since 2006. Flinty tones combine with sagebrush, mocha and tar notes. The palate is deep and concentrated with serious finesse and a great tannic backbone. Drink 2026-2045- 95

2023 Fidelities ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Merlot- The 2023 ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Merlot comes from this acclaimed location on Red Mountain. This comes off juicy and refined with loads of dried herbs, scorched earth, tar and pipe tobacco alongside rich red fruits. Delicious and showing beautifully right now, enjoy over the next fifteen years. Drink 2026-2041- 94

Rivaura

People don’t know that Idaho has the potential to make great wines. Such is the case with Rivaura, one of the jewels of Idaho wine. This is an otherworldly riverfront location just outside of Lewiston, Idaho, on the Clearwater River. Back in 2014 that Rivaura founders Ron Hewett, Sr., along with his sons Ron, Jr., and Reece Hewett, founded this winery. For more than 60 years, this family has grown up along the banks of the Clearwater River in the Lewis-Clark Valley, just a tad east of Lewiston, Idaho at Arrow near Juliaetta, Idaho. Prior to stating their winery the Hewetts talked to Kevin Pogue, PhD, RG, of VinTerra Consulting who confirmed that their site was perfect for grape growing.

The wines are now made by the Hewett family. The lineup was really consistently great. I love the new 2024 Rivaura Viognier (OB, 92) which has excellent flavor density and weight. Check out the beautiful 2023 Rivaura Merlot (OB, 92) which has good depth and varietal character. These are really well-priced wines and all are under 60 bucks. Learn more about this really exciting new Idaho wine project at rivaura.com and here are my reviews of the new Rivaura wines. 

2024 Rivaura ‘Estate’ Viognier- The 2024 Rivaura Viognier offers honeysuckle aromatics alongside honeydew melon, cashew nut and shades of white peach. The palate is fat and generous with a silky texture and great sense of weight. Drink 2025-2031- 92

2023 Rivaura ‘GSM’ Red Wine- The 2023 ‘GSM’ combines Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre fro the Rivaura Estate Vineyard. This is neatly balanced stuff with rich red and dark fruits with tar and herbal accents. Drink 2025-2031- 91

2023 Rivaura ‘Estate’ Syrah- The 2023 ‘Estate’ Syrah shows smoked brisket and blackberry compote alongside menthol notes on the palate. Medium-bodied with a soft mouthfeel, enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2025-2031- 92

2023 Rivaura ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2023 ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon is soft and approachable on the mid-palate. Flavors of blackberry and black cherry compote combine with loamy soils and shades of black licorice on the palate. Drink 2025-2032- 92

2023 Rivaura ‘Estate’ Merlot- The 2023 ‘Estate’ Merlot offers a soft mouthfeel with molten chocolate, Bing cherry and black raspberry flavors alongside damp soils. Delicious now, enjoy over the next eight plus years. Drink 2025-2033- 92

2023 Rivaura ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Franc- The 2023 Rivaura ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Franc is neatly-textured stuff that has some good aging potential. Dense dark fruits collide with chocolate, mulling spice and pipe tobacco on the palate. Enjoy this beauty over the next decade. Drink 2025-2035- 93

2023 Rivaura ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The really good 2023 Rivaura ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon exudes class in this warmer vintage. On the nose this ‘Reserve’ takes on kirsch cordial and mocha notes alongside green herbal accents. The palate is rich and concentrated with a refined mouthfeel and good sense of weight and finesse. Drink 2025-2035- 93

2023 Rivaura ‘Insomniac’ Red Wine- The 2023 ‘Insomniac’ is a Bordeaux-inspired blend named after the Rivaura founder. It is well-structured with a refined mouthfeel. Crushed green herbs and exotic spices mingle well with heady dark fruits and a graphite edge on the palate. Drink 2025-2037- 93

Reali

Today we share a brand new winery out of Walla Walla. Reali is the vision of Ken and Kristin Reali who in 2021 settled in the Walla Walla Valley. They planted their 15-acre estate vineyard in spring 2023, focusing on both classic French varieties and select Italian varieties. They have hired Serge Laville to be their winemaker.Serge Laville has long made wines in Walla Walla. I loved the wines he made for many years at Spring Valley. He has received multiple recognitions in the Wine Spectator top 100. Serge follows a minimalist approach to winemaking that ensures high quality wines focusing on the characteristics of each variety. The new wines were really good. I love the 2023 Reali Grenache (OB, 94) which has insanely good flavor range and texture. Learn more at https://www.realifamilyvineyard.com

2024 Reali Rose- Sourced from the Reali Estate Vineyard, this 2024 Rose is made from Cabernet Franc grapes. This is soft and juicy with vibrant acidity on the palate. Delicate red fruits mingle well with marvelous damp earth tones on the palate. Drink 2025-2031- 91

2024 Reali Sauvignon Blanc- This 2024 Sauvignon Blanc comes from the Columbia Gorge AVA. It is fresh neatly textured stuff with gooseberry and melon flavors alongside shades of kiwi  on the palate. Drink 2025-2031- 91

2023 Reali Grenache- The 2023 Reali Grenache comes from the Walla Walla Valley. Wet rock and orange peel combine with pretty red fruits and red florals on the nose. The palate has brilliant tension and stony character, with gravel, red currants and charcuterie notes. Lithe and polished, this is by far the finest I have tasted yet from this estate — and no reason to cellar this beauty. Drink 2025-2031- 94

2023 Reali Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2023 Reali Cabernet Sauvignon is soft and round on the mouth with a generous mouthfeel. Dense red and dark fruits parade with chocolate and a graphite edge on the palate. This is seriously good with its silky texture and good sense of length. Enjoy now and over the next six to eight years. Drink 2025-2033- 93