Rex Hill

Today we share the story of Rex Hill that dates back to1992 and continues to share their legacy today. Winemaker Michael Davies has a longstanding history making Pinot Noir. Originally from a small town in New Zealand, Michael completed a Bachelor of Arts in Economics, Scandinavian Studies and Political Science at the University of Auckland leading to some unusual jobs, before returning to Lincoln University for a post-graduate diploma in Viticulture & Enology. Prior to joining Rex Hill and A to Z, he served as Vineyard Manager and Assistant Winemaker for 6 years at Chehalem, as well as in Burgundy, California, the Hunter Valley of Australia and numerous regions of New Zealand. 

I really enjoy the new Rex Hill ‘Seven Soils’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which brilliantly speaks to the vintage with its good richness and great sense of texture. This is a sure bet for any serious lover of Oregon Chardonnay. Learn more about these great wines at rexhill.com

2022 Rex Hill ‘Seven Soils’ Chardonnay- The 2022 ‘Seven Soils’ was stored in mainly neutral oak barrels before bottling. This comes from a range of locations throughout the willamette valley. It is nicely textured stuff with clove laced pastry crust, banana, salty soils and shades of juicy peach on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2025-2031- 92

2022 Rex Hill ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2022 Rex Hill ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir delivers lighter bodied red fruits with fresh sage and satsuma orange zest on the palate. Enjoy now. Drink 2025-2030- 90

Willamette Valley Vineyards

It is my pleasure to bring you one of the great historic wineries in Oregon. Willamette Valley Vineyards founder, Jim Bernau, bought the estate back in 1983 and planted Pinot Noir (Pommard and Wadenswil clones), Chardonnay (Dijon and Espiguette) as well as Pinot Gris. Bernau took winemaking classes at UC Davis and finally started the winery full time in 1989. Willamette Valley Vineyards has grown considerably in the past 20 years, as they merged with Bill Fuller of Tualatin Vineyards (established in 1973), the O'Briens for Elton Vineyard (established in 1983) and Loeza Vineyard (planted in 2015). They make a fabulous range of wines.

I love the new 2023 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Bernau Block’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which is a dense and delicious bottling with some great aging potential. Here are the new releases from Willamette Valley Vineyards and learn more at http://wvv.com

2023 Willamette Valley Vineyards White Pinot Noir- A really great bottling, the 2023 White Pinot Noir offers nutty and baking spice nuances on the palate, with white peach and hints of star jasmine water. Complex and earthy, enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2025-2030- 91

2023 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Whole Cluster’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Whole Cluster’ Pinot Noir shows bright and delicious strawberry, Bing cherry and cranberry fruit flavors on the palate, alongside dusty soils. Salty and savory, enjoy now and over the next seven plus years. Drink 2025-2032- 92

2023 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Bernau Block’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 ‘Bernau Block’ comes from the first 15 acres of Pinot Noir planted by Jim Bernau back in 1983. It is lively and tasty, bursting with bright red fruits, with hints of peach, baking spices and suggestions of fresh thyme, alongside orange zest nuances. Complex and delicious, enjoy over the next ten plus years. Drink 2025-2035- 93

Passing Time

Evening friends! Tonight we share one of the outstanding producers of red wines in Washington State. But did you know that they also make a world-class Chardonnay? Passing Time was founded by NFL legends Dan Marino and Damon Huard, utilizing the talents of famed winemaker Chris Peterson. This is clearly one of the state’s most electric wine brands. The wines have been amazing since their first 2012 vintage with Chris Peterson at the helm. Peterson was the first graduate of the Walla Walla Community College’s Enology and Viticulture program and working at DeLille for eight years under legendary winemaker Chris Upchurch. He makes some incredible wines for Passing Time.

I love the new 2024 Passing Time ‘Columbia Valley’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) which is dense, viscous and filled with concentration. Learn more about this fantastic  boutique winery at http://www.passingtime.com Here is my reviews of the new Passing Time wines. And GO DAWGS!

2024 Passing Time ‘Columbia Valley’ Chardonnay- The 2024 ‘Columbia Valley’ by Passing Time comes from the Weinbau and Connor Lee as well as the Spanish Castle, Boushey and Frenchman Hills Vineyards. Stored in 60% new French oak, this comes off unctuous and round on the mouth, with a silky mouthfeel. The palate is dense and viscous with lemon rind dusted shortbread, banana, mango and suggestions of Japanese pear on the palate. Showing gobs of salty minerals, with glorious length and verve, this beauty will sure live on for another eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2033- 95

REVIEW: American Airlines First Class LAX to Seattle, A Very Meh Flight

America Airlines is currently the largest world airline and a member of the onward alliance. There are nearly 1K aircraft in its fleet, as I flew on an American Eagle plane which is a regional carrier for American. This flight left from a tiny commuter terminal at LAX which was really hard to find and a long way from Terminal 4, the main hub for American Airlines.

Seat: As you can see there is not a lot of leg room in First Class. My knees were nearly hitting the end. There was no acknowledgment of my oneworld Emerald Status on check-in or during the flight. I also had no access to the American Airlines lounge despite my Emerald status, being that I am an Alaska Airlines status holder.

The seat is a similar seat to the rest of the coach class on this small plane. First class is a 1-2 configuration so I was sitting by myself in 1A. I had originally booked a seat in 4A but there was really no difference in room between the two seats. There are seat chargers on the seat but they did not work properly.

First Class Vs. Coach: First class has a meal compared to coach where you have to pay for drinks and meals. I found the meal quality to be incredible poor despite this, as was the drinks list which you will see. American Airlines advertises more legroom and room than the coach cabin but you don’t really see this as a passenger.

I decided to look through the in flight entertainment which was only provided by the American Airlines app. If you do not have the app then obviously you have zero entertainment.

I was impressed how poor the American Airlines drink list was. The wine options were horrible. They did have some basic spirits selection but not having a basic, palatable wine selection is really poor. Flying the same day in Alaska Airlines First Class there was at least some better wine choices. I would have liked to enjoy a glass of afternoon wine but that quite simply was not an option.

As I admired the very basic seat I saw that I was surrounded in filth. The seat itself was incredibly unclean and needed a deep cleaning desperately. Food was trapped all over the corners of the seat.

Service: Service was very slow. Some of the staff were trying to make the customers happy while others seemed like they could care less about providing service. This was consistent with what passengers experience in other US carriers. It was absolutely no surprise to me.

They did disappear for a long time in the galley and were chatting for much of the trip. It took a long time for my water glass to be refilled. Overall, I would give the service a D+, slightly ahead of Spirit Airlines.

Food: Food quality was incredibly poor. The wrap they had was essentially inedible and dry. I had a bite and then decided against any further torment. The bean salad pictured was mushy and also inedible. The plastic cutlery was poor and they just dropped the box on my lap.

I did not expect a great meal, but a hot meal on a 3 hour flight would be a nice idea. I was impressed how poor the overall food quality was in that nicely-wrapped box. It was like receiving a gift-wrapped box of half-eaten dog food for Christmas.

Bottom Line: Overall, this was a really unimpressive flight. I was somewhat looking forward to trying First Class on an American Airlines domestic flight, but the experience fell short in essentially every category. Some of the flight attendants were nice and seemed to be somewhat trying, while others sat in the galley and chatted the entire time. Food quality was incredibly poor. There was filth surrounding me everywhere on the seat. Unfortunately, these experiences seem to be endemic to essentially all US airline carriers were attitude, training, preparation and overall quality misses the mark by a landslide.

Saviah Cellars

I love the wines of Saviah — a Walla Walla mainstay that was founded back in 2000, starting with only 300 cases produced. Saviah has been made famous particularly from their wines sourced from their two estate vineyards in the Walla Walla Rocks District. Saviah was started by winemaker Richard Funk and his wife, Anita, who are both natives of Montana who moved to Walla Walla in 1991 and later planted their first vineyard in 2001. Saviah is a family name from Anita’s great-grandmother, a schoolteacher, artist and author, who settled in western Montana in the early 1900s. 

Several times I’ve toured their two great estate vineyards, ‘The Stones Speak’ and ‘The Funk Estate’ vineyards. With a foundation  in microbiology, Richard previously worked as the Environmental Health Specialist with the Walla Walla County Health Department and is a self-taught winemaker. Richard has assisted several wineries with their start-up processes and served as the winemaker for Watermill Winery from 2006-2009, àMaurice winery from 2005-2006 and also has served as a consulting winemaker for several new wineries.

Richard’s son, Jared, has been helping make the wines for several years now, training under his father. He shows some serious promise. I adored the 2023 Saviah ‘The Funk Estate’ Syrah (OB, 96) which is rich, complex and viscous with great stony essence. Learn more about this outstanding winery at https://www.saviahcellars.com/ Here are the outstanding new wines by Saviah.

2024 Saviah Chenin Blanc- Coming from the Three Mile Vineyard in the Columbia Gorge AVA, shows loads of texture and tension on the mouth. Layers of kiwi and gooseberry combine with suggestions of juicy white peach on the palate. Drink 2025-2031- 92

2024 Saviah Chardonnay- The outstanding 2024 Saviah Chardonnay was sourced from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard in the Royal Slope AVA. This is neatly-textured stuff with terrific finesse and loads of salty minerals. Pastry crust and shades of lemon cream combine with honeydew melon and baking spices on the palate. Drink 2025-2032- 93

2024 Saviah Viognier- Coming from the Saviah Estate Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley, the 2024 Viognier delivers wet stone and melon fruits alongside shades of honeysuckle water and Japanese pear notes on the palate. Fresh and vibrant with a refined mouthfeel, enjoy now and over the next six plus years. Drink 2025-2031- 93

2023 Saviah ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah- The really good 2023 Saviah ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah delivers black olives and black tea alongside shades of boysenberry compote on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2025-2032- 92

2023 Saviah ‘G.S.M.’ Red Wine- The 2023 ‘G.S.M.’ offers blood orange zest and wet stone on the nose with bright red fruits and beef brisket. The palate is juicy and silky with soft tannins and vibrant acidity, with a smooth mouthfeel. Drink 2025-2032- 93

2023 Saviah ‘Une Vallee’ Red Wine- The 2023 ‘Une Vallee’ combines mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) with smaller parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Black tea and exotic spice notes collide with red bell pepper and beef drippings on the nose. The palate is fresh and refined with a silky mouthfeel. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2023 Saviah ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2023 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows up soft on the mouth, with soft tannins. Black currant, tar and tobacco leaf flavors mingle well with a graphite edge on the palate. Fresh and fragrant, showing black florals, this is already neatly defined stuff that will last for at least eight more years. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2023 Saviah ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Malbec- The 2023 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Malbec offers Asian spices and huckleberry compote on the nose with gorgeous violet rose petals. The palate is plush and loaded with freshness, showing outstanding flavor density and excellent length. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2033- 94

2022 Saviah ‘Hallowed Stones Vineyard’ Grenache- The 2022 ‘Hallowed Stones Vineyard’ Grenache  shows smoked pork shoulder with juicy red raspberry, charcuterie and hints of green olives on the nose, with pretty red florals. The palate is neatly textured with serious depth and concentration. A gorgeous wine that is already showing beautifully, enjoy over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2033- 94

2022 Saviah ‘Hunt & Gather’ Red Wine- The 2022 ‘Hunt & Gather’ combines 60% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Syrah from the Funk Estate Vineyard. This shows great tension and texture, loaded with bright red and dark fruits, alongside shades of oyster sauce and stony accents on the palate. Drink 2025-2033- 94

2022 Saviah ‘The Stones Speak’ Tempranillo- The 2022 ‘The Stones Speak’ Tempranillo has a small amount of Syrah blended in. Hoisin sauce and smoked brisket flavors combine with bright red fruits and Satsuma orange zest on the palate. This is fresh and delicious stuff that is best enjoyed over the next eight plus years. Drink 2025-2033- 94

2022 Saviah ‘The Stones Speak’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The amazing 2022 ‘The Stones Speak’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from this cobblestone-laden vineyard in the Rocks District. It is soft and juicy, loaded with stony character alongside oyster sauce, boysenberry compote and shades of red currants on the palate. Fresh and also dense, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2025-2033- 94

2023 Saviah ‘Reserve’ Syrah- The 2023 ‘Reseve’ was sourced from The Stones Speak and Funk Estate and Waterstone Estate Vineyards. The palate is dense and delicious, with a seamless mouthfeel and amazing flavor range. Smoked meats, soy sauce, white pepper dusted bacon and shades of blackberry compote all combine on the palate. Drink 2025-2033- 95

2022 Saviah ‘The Stones Speak Vineyard’ Syrah- Fresh and vibrant, the outstanding  2022  Saviah ‘The Stones Speak Vineyard’ Syrah offers green herbal tones alongside beef drippings, black currants and shades of black olive tapenade on the nose. The palate is dense and delicious with terrific tension and mouthfeel. Drink 2025-2033— 95

2023 Saviah ‘The Funk Estate Vineyard’ Syrah- Just like the ’22 edition, the 2023 Saviah ‘The Funk Estate Vineyard’ Syrah has 4% Viognier blended in. Inky in the glass, this shows off honeysuckle, coppa ham and suggestions of bulls blood with crushed wet rock, Umami and seaweed notes on the nose. The palate is fresh and beautifully-textured with concentrated black fruits, alongside serious tension and stony essence. Drink 2025-2033- 96

Kobayashi

Today we share one of the electric wine brands of the Pacific Northwest. Tasting with winemaker Travis Allen, he shared his 2024 and 2023 wines with me. “I really enjoy these vintages” he said. “’24 in particular was really good for whites” he explained.

I was spellbound by the shocking good 2024 Kobayashi Viognier (OB, 97) which is arguably the finest wine of its kind in Washington. This one is definitely upper echelon Vio.

As good as the ’24 Viognier was, the stunning ‘Minzunara’ bottling from 2023 was another perfect wine for me. “You’ll notice the barrel impact is considerably less” explained Allen. I found that sandalwood and cedar tones to really caress the beautiful floral and black fruit character of the Cabernet Franc. I think this is easily one of the best, if not the best Cabernet Franc made in the United States — really rivaling anything out of Napa or Sonoma right now. Elegant, seamless and full of tension and viscosity, try to get your hands on the scintillating 2023 ‘Mizunara’ Cabernet Franc. Learn more at https://kobayashiwinery.com and here are my reviews of the sensational new wines by Kobayashi winery. 

NV Kobayashi ‘Nikko’ Sparkling Wine- Coming from the Celilo Vineyard, this is 100% Blanc de Noirs sparkling wine that was planted back in 1973. Beautiful red fruits grace the nose alongside sourdough bread and shades of yellow plum. Zero dosage, this is concentrated and rich with terrific flavor density and great saline and nutty accents. Drink 2025-2033- 94

2024 Kobayashi Viognier- This 2024 Viognier was sourced from entirely the WeatherEye Vineyard.This was stored in a range of vessels including amphorae, stainless steel and even a glass orb (wine globe). Golden in the glass, this delivers yarrow and wild herbs that combine with yellow plum and marzipan notes. The palate is rich and viscous with serious tension and loads of wet stone character. Viscous and tense, very nervy, enjoy over the next ten years to come. Drink 2025-2037- 97

2024 Kobayashi ‘Sans Soufre’ Cabernet Franc- The 2024 ‘Sans Soufre’ comes from old vines at the Red Willow Vineyard as this location is organically farmed. Stored and fermented in nearly all concrete, this offers violets and tar notes on the nose alongside bacon fat, and suggestions of wild blackberry pie. The palate is rich and concentrated with serious depth and finesse. A stunning wine made from this warm vintage, watch this evolve over the next six plus years. Only 300 bottles made. Drink 2025-2033- 97

2023 Kobayashi Cabernet Franc- Sourced from the Blue Mountain Vineyard, this 2023 Cabernet Franc opens with concentrated black fruits with Middle Eastern spices, orange bell pepper and shades of crushed mint. The palate is deep, viscous and unbelievably good with serious texture and shows great salty/stony nuance. Drink 2025-2042- 97

2023 Kobayashi ‘Mizunara’ Cabernet Franc- The 2023 ‘Mizunara’ comes from old plantings at the Red Willow Vineyard. This wine was made in the third use barrel. Sandalwood notes combine with potpourri, anise and creme de cassis notes. The palate is plush and smooth with a seamless texture and sensational viscosity. This is unbelievable wine that has so much life ahead of it. Only 500 bottles made. Drink 2025-2050- 100

2023 Kobayashi Syrah- Entirely coming from the WeatherEye Vineyard, this has a touch of Viognier blended in. Stored in roughly 25% new French oak, this delivers bacon fat and green olive on the palate alongside salty nuances and crushed wet rocky notes. Concentrated, with loads of finesse, enjoy now and over the next decade. Drink 2025-2035- 96

Cellar Selection: 2016 Chateau D'Issan

Today we share an outstanding house in Margaux. Chateau D’Issan remarkably dates back to a property fortress in the seigneury of La Mothe-Cantenac. This 12th century building was demolished five hundred years later by Baron d’Essenault when he inherited the estate. The Baron had the present property built, which today still has some beautiful medieval features, such as its imposing gateway, its towers and its moat, relics of its former defenses. A wall built in 1644 still surrounds the vineyard. The chateau is lived in today, having undergone several phases of renovation. In 1970, after the Cruse family undertook refurbishment work, the chateau was included on the French complementary list of historical buildings. The chateau name dates back to the Essenault family, who ended up renaming it, contracting their name to “Issan” and thus Château d’Issan was born. The property has been a 3rd Grand Cru Classe since the 1855 classification. During the period between the two World Wars, the estate was unfortunately left to deteriorate, but was reawakened by the Cruse family, owners since 1945. Under the management of Lionel Cruse, the chateau has been restored, the installations modified and the vineyard replanted. Since 1998 Lionel’s son Emmanuel Cruse has been making significant investments in the vines and cellars.

The property spans 67 total hectares including 52 hectares (109 acres) in Margaux, 5 hectares (7.5 acres) in Haut-Médoc and 10 hectares (24.5 acres) in Bordeaux Supérieur. Soils are well-draining gravel and 15-metre (50-foot) high alluvial hills, rounded by erosion.

I love the 2016 Chateau D’Issan (OB, 94) which is really stunning at the nine year mark. It shows the richness of this great vintage.  If enjoying now, give this a two to three hour decant. Here are my notes of the incredible 2016 from Chateau D’Issan.

2016 Chateau D’Issan Bordeaux- The 2016 D’Issan is a stunning blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon and 36% Merlot. It was aged in 50% new and 50% one-year-old French oak for 18 months prior to bottling. Once on the nose this takes on layers of baking spices, anise, creme de cassis and wet gravel accents. The palate is medium to full-bodied with gorgeous dark fruits and dark florals that meld well with sandalwood and rocky accents. This should easily go for another twenty years to come. Drink 2025-2045- 95

Valette

Welcome to November, friends. Today we share one of the electric newer wine brands on the West Coast. Chef Dustin Valette not only runs his namesake restaurant (https://www.valettehealdsburg.com/  4.7 on Google!) but also curates a limited-production wine brand with bottlings made by some of the greatest talents in California wine: Jesse Katz, David Ramey and Tom Rochioli.

I have tasted several rounds of his wines. They are truly outstanding. Do not miss out on the 2010 Valette ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Champagne (OB, 94) which is dense and rich, as this spent a whopping 14 years en tirage. I love the 2023 Valette ‘Russian River Valley’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which is a stunning Chardonnay by David Ramey. Here are my reviews of the new releases by Valette. Learn more at https://www.valettewines.com/

2010 Valette ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Champagne- A world-class Pinot Noir champagne from the 2010 vintage, the amazing ‘Blanc de Noirs’ comes from a 14-hectare parcel in Arrentières in the Aube department of Champagne. This beauty was aged on the lees lees from tirage in May 2011 until disgorgement in April 2025. It is golden in the glass, loaded with salty minerals and coming up fat, round and generous. Green apple and custard flavors combine with persimmon and ginger on the palate. This is just a joy to consume right now. Drink 2025-2033- 94

2023 Valette ‘Russian River Valley’ Chardonnay- A gorgeous wine made by famed winemaker David Ramey, the 2023 ‘Russian River Valley’ was stored in mostly neutral oak barrels before bottling. This comes off soft, mineral-laden and highly approachable. Crushed wet rock tones combine with yellow plum, juicy nectarine and kiwi flavors alongside hints of buttered French bread on the palate. A gorgeous rendition of Russian River Chardonnay, enjoy now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2025-2033- 94

2023 Valette ‘Rochioli Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Made by eminent vintner Tom Rochioli, this 2023 Chardonnay comes from the River Block section of the Rochioli Estate vineyard in the center of the Russian River Valley. The wine was whole cluster pressed, and then aged in mainly neutral French oak barrels before bottling. This is rich and intense stuff, with heady orchard and citrus fruits, that combine with stony minerals and glorious length on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2025-2035- 95

2023 Valette ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir- This brilliant 2023 Pinot Noir comes from the talented hands of winemaker Michael Browne. The nose is dense and heady, with cola, cranberry and sassafras notes alongside shades of cherries jubilee.Plush and soft on the mouth, this is gorgeous texturally, with outstanding weight and length. Enjoy over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2025-2040- 95

Rare Champagne

Today we share one of the great Champagne houses in the world. Flashback to 2016 and Rare Champagne became its own brand, formerly being the top wine of Piper-Hedseick, owned by the EPI group. Rare Champagne is made in select vintages, and this is the latest edition from 2012 with the last Rare Champagne being produced with the challenging 2013 vintage. That said, the 2013 Rare was clearly one of the great wines made that vintage.

These Champagnes are aged at least ten years on the lees before disgorgement. Cuvée Rare was first created by Piper-Heidsieck back in 1976. Rare Champagne has only declared 14 vintages, which is one of the most demanding producers in Champagne.  Rare is always a Chardonnay dominant prestige champagne, and utilizes grapes from Trépail and Villers-Marmery in the Montagne de Reims to play first fiddle in the blend instead of classic Côte des Blancs grands crus origins. The new wine was extraordinarily good and has a long life ahead of it.
Chef de caves Emilien Boutillat has crafted a stunning 2012 Rare (OB, 97) which really needs a lot of air before consuming. It is concentrated, rich and layered with a scintillating mouthfeel and mousse. Learn more about this incredible wine at https://www.foliowine.com/wine/rare-millesime-brut/ and here is my review of the 2012 Rare Champagne.

2012 Rare Champagne- The 2012 Rare Champagne is a world-class follow up to the stunning 2013 edition. outstanding ’08 edition. Aged for more than a decade on the less, this is composed of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir (sourced from Verzy, Verzenay, Aÿ, Ambonnay, and Villedommange). It is marvelously leesy on the nose with buttered brioche notes alongside shades of banana, cardamom dusted walnut and ginger accents. The palate has amazing volume and texture, as the silky and refined mousse deftly greets you. The length is downright glorious here, as this is a big, broad-shouldered edition of Rare that is just starting to hit its stride. Be sure to give this at least 20 minutes of air before consuming. Drink 2025-2052- 97

Groth

One of the great family wineries in Napa, Groth Vineyards was founded in 1982 by Judy and Dennis Groth. Before founding their winery they found financial success while working for Ernst and Young in the South Bay. Dennis became chief financial officer at Atari and in 1981 they both purchased a large 121 acre parcel of land in Oakville back in 1982. These vineyards are on the floor of Napa, right in the prime area for growing beautiful Chardonnay, and Bordeaux varietals. It is a gorgeous spot to taste wine.

Today, second-generation family member Suzanne Groth leads the business. Winemaker Ted Henry has an impressive resume which includes former stints at jJarvis Estate and Clos du Val. He is making some really beautiful wines. I was so impressed with the 2020 wines and the wines made in 2022 are delicious. I loved the 2024 Groth ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 93) which has great texture and poise, as well as flavor range.  I love the 2022 Groth ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) which is a remarkable wine made in a tough vintage. Learn more about this great historic winery at https://www.grothwines.com Here are the fantastic new bottling by Groth. 

2024 Groth ‘Napa Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc- Soft, round and delicious, the 2024 Groth ‘Napa Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc offers kiwi and white grapefruit flavors that parade with green melon and nutty accents on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, with good viscosity, enjoy now and over the next six to eight years. Drink 2025-2031- 92

2024 Groth ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2023 ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc is an outstanding wine now in its second edition. It has a touch of Semillon blended in, as this was stored in neutral French oak before bottling. It has deep melon fruits that parade with shades of passion fruit, white peach, salted Macadamia nut and copious minerals on the palate. This is complex stuff, as the Semillon really adds to the equation here. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2023 Groth ‘Estate’ Chardonnay- This is now known as the Groth ‘Estate’ Chardonnay as for years it was called the ‘Hillview Vineyard’ — although it does come from this location in the Napa Valley. This 2023 edition opens with pie crust and custard notes alongside ripe pineapple and Japanese pear. The palate is lush and viscous with terrific viscosity and tension. A joy to drink right now, this will easily go for another eight years. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2022 Groth ‘Oakcross’ Red Wine- The 2022 ‘Oakcross’ is named after Groth’s Oakville Estate which was first planted back in 1973. This is a lush and rich wine to consume now. Dense black cherry and black raspberry notes combine with milk chocolate, sage and loamy soils on the palate. This is really nicely done considering the challenges at harvest. Drink 2025-2032- 92

2022 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2022 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon is another wine in this collection that defies the challenges of the vintage. It comes off well-structured, dense and delicious and is already beautifully evolved. Mocha, tar and anise combine with heady dark fruits on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2025-2033- 92

2022 Groth ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2022 ‘Reserve’ is a remarkable new bottling by winemaker Ted Henry. Once on the nose this takes on heady black and blue fruits that combine with loamy soils and caused wet rock notes. The palate is fat, rich and deep with great poise and concentration. A remarkable achievement in this hot vintage, savor this beauty now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2025-2035- 95

Cimento

A brilliant brand from the Rocks District, today we share the amazing wines of Cimento. A Latin word with a historical meaning, Cimento refers to a mixture used by goldsmiths to purify precious metals, usually by fire. In the seventeenth century, the term gained broader meaning and referred to testing or experimenting: ‘to try’ or ‘to experiment.’ The name is meant to lend itself to a philosophy of experimentation.

These wines come from Cimento’s land holdings in the Walla Walla Rocks District. Cimento is owned by the Walla Walla Land Company — the largest land holders in the Rocks District. The last set of wines were amazing and these were just as good.

Check out the stunning 2023 Cimento ‘Orselli Estate’ Syrah (OB, 97) which is a stunning wine with amazing flavor range. Learn more at https://www.cimentowines.com/ and here are my reviews of the new Cimento red wine releases.

2023 Cimento ‘Orselli Estate Vineyard’ Grenache- A stunning edition of this wine, the 2023 Cimento ‘Orselli Estate Vineyard’ Grenache is deep, rich and beautifully-textured stuff. Guava puree, charcuterie, Mandarin orange zest and wet stone all mingle together on the palate, with excellent verve. Very pretty and electric, no reason to cellar this beauty. Enjoy now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2025-2033- 96

2023 Cimento ‘Orselli Estate Vineyard’ Syrah- Inky in the glass, the 2023 Cimento ‘Orselli Estate Vineyard’ Syrah is a stunning new wine that has marvelous stony character. Beef drippings, Hoisin sauce and iodine all mark the palate alongside dense dark fruits, and creosote notes. Heady and intense, enjoy now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2025-2033- 97

Walla Walla Vintners

Today we share the brilliant wines of Walla Walla Vintners. Proprietors Scott and Nici Haladay, have been doing an incredible job revamping this program. Having spent time with Scott, he is passionate, dedicated and very clever — he knows exactly what to do in the wine industry. He had a great hire from Long Shadows several years ago to make his wines.Derrek Vipond is a is a native Washingtonian who started his career at Walla Walla Community College in the Enology and Viticulture program. After completing his education with a degree from Oregon State University in Fermentation Science, Derrek worked several harvests across the globe before eventually moving back to Walla Walla and joining Walla Walla Vintners in January 2019. He trained under Gilles Nicault and his wines are very structurally sound, with a beginning, middle and end.

These wines have continued to improve in overall quality. I can’t say enough about the 25 dollar 2023 ‘Woven Fields’ Red Wine (OB, 92) which is a stunning wine at this price. It is concentrated, delicious and would be an impressive showing at any blind tasting. Learn more about these great new releases at https://wallawallavintners.com Here are my reviews of the new wines by Walla Walla Vintners. 

2023 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Woven Fields’ Red Wine- The 2023 ‘Woven Fields’ combines mostly Merlot (40%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) with the remainder Cabernet Franc and Malbec. This comes off dense, chewy, round and generous on the mouth with a silky texture. Rich red and dark fruits parade with sagebrush and chocolate fudge notes. This is a super wine at only 25 bucks. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2025-2033- 92

2023 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Another wine that totally overdelivers for the price, the 2023 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows off black tea and exotic spice notes on the nose with menthol and blackberry compote. The palate is round and generous with a terrific mouthfeel and flavor density. Enjoy now and over the next several years. Drink 2025-2033- 92

2022 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Cut Bank Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from this high elevation spot in the Walla Walla valley, the 2022 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Cut Bank Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon delivers a round and generous mouthfeel, as this is already drinking beautifully, showing good freshness. A great melange of black and blue fruits greet you on the palate, with pencil lead, eucalyptus and suggestions of Black Forest cake. Powerful and showing good richness considering the coolness of the vintage, enjoy now and over the next fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2025-2040- 94

2022 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Vottavo’ Red Wine- The amazing 2022 ‘Votavo’ is nearly all Sangiovese with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and a dash of Syrah. It is chewy and rich on the palate, showing outstanding flavor range. Black cherry compote, red currants and blood orange zest flavors all combine with dusty soils and shades of anise. Full-bodied, well-structured and neatly-textured, enjoy now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2025-2037- 93

2023 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Estate’ Syrah- The 2023 ‘Estate’ Syrah comes from the Cut Bank Estate which is a cooler location in the foothills of the Blue Mountains. Inky in the glass, this offers wafts of mocha, tar and black rose petals, with wet stony accents. The palate is dense and vultuopus making this particularly impossible to resist now. Enjoy this beauty by Derrek Vipond over the next ten plus years. Drink 2025-2036- 94

2023 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Silt & Stone’ Cabernet Franc- 100% varietal, the 2023 ‘Silt & Stone’ comes from a densely planted spot in the Seven Hills Vineyard. It offers alluring red florals alongside cigar box, orange bell pepper and tomato leaf notes with black raspberry. The palate is plush and elegant with serious texture, weight and verve. A stunning new wine to savor now, watch this evolve over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2025-2040- 94

Abeja

It is my pleasure to share one of the greats of Walla Walla. I have long enjoyed visiting this scenic site in the foothills of the Blue Mountains. Abeja is one of the most beautiful sites you will see in the Walla Walla Valley. They have a brand new facility there that is spacious and squeaky clean. Abeja wines were first made by illustrious winemaker John Abbott as this location boasts eight luxury cottages, with a large farmhouse, creeks, and gardens on the 38 acre property. Abeja relies on the winemaking talents of Dan Wampfler and Amy Alvarez-Wampfler who have now been there for a decade. Both Dan and Amy have more than 30 years of combined winemaking experience. They work closely together on the wines and craft truly one of the great overall lineups of wine. There is little doubt that the Abeja Chardonnay has been one of the benchmarks for Washington State.

Co-winemaker Dan Wampfler with his wife, Amy, create some of the most quintessential Washington Chardonnay. They use limited new oak as well as concrete tanks. “I like oak as a tool, rather than a weapon” Dan explains. He stated “Texture with the concrete tank and it provides significant more mouthfeel, texturally this gives you depth.” The Skysill Chardonnay has now become of the finest Chardonnays made in the Pacific Northwest. “We do three different picks for this wine to get those layers” he explained.

I love the new 2024 Abeja ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which is a stunning bottling that comes from several Columbia Valley sites. Another year and another perfect wine for the Wampflers. The 2021 ‘Skysill’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 100) is no cheap treat at over 200 bucks. But it is absolutely worth the splurge. It is pillowy, soft, opulent and dense — everything that you want in a world-class Cabernet. Only 186 cases made of this special wine. Learn more about this outstanding winery at http://www.abeja.net/ Here are the great new wines by Abeja.

2024 Abeja ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay- Another beautiful edition of this wine, the 2024 ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay was sourced from top sites such as Celilo and Skysill as well as Kenny Hill. Like the ’23 edition, this is dense and fat on the tongue, with terrific viscosity and loads of underlying minimality. White peach and baking spice laced French bread alongside vanilla bean and custard notes all combine on the palate. Finishing long, this is complex, elegant Chardonnay that is best consumed now and over the next decade. Drink 2025-2035- 94

2023 Abeja ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Chardonnay- The 2023 Abeja ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Chardonnay was also stored in a limited amount of new French oak before bottling. All of the estate Chardonnay is planted above 1300 feet which leads to serious tension in the wine. Stony minerals combine with beautiful weight and a pretty core of melon and citrus fruits on the palate. Showing a terrific mouthfeel and great stony character, with outstanding length, this is best consumed over the next decade. Drink 2025-2035- 94

2024 Abeja ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Viognier- Another flat-out stunning rendition of Viognier from the Walla Walla Valley, the 2024 Abeja Viognier was stored in neutral French oak before bottling. Honeysuckle water and juicy nectarine and pear tones fill the palate alongside pie crust and shades of yellow plum. Like the ’23, this comes off delightfully fat and round on the tongue. Salty and mineral-laden, with a great viscosity, enjoy this beauty now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2033- 94

2023 Abeja Syrah- The 2023 Abeja Syrah comes from this low-yielding estate vineyard on Mill Creek road. This site is now ripped up and will eventually be replanted. The nose is wonderfully herbal wit kirsch and shades of anise with purple flowers. The palate is dense and rich with great chocolate and dark fig flavors alongside suggestions of garrigue. Intense and beautifully-textured, this is really well-done stuff that will cellar well for another ten plus years. Drink 2025-2034- 94

2023 Abeja ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot- Like the 100% varietal ’22, the ’23 Abeja ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot comes from outstanding sites such as Skysill, Ciel du Cheval, as well as old plantings at Bacchus and Dionysus Vineyards. Dark currants and tar mark the nose alongside shades of anise and graphite. This is dense, well-structured stuff with loads of heady dark fruits and chocolate. Soft and supple on the tongue, with great underlying verve, enjoy this beauty now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2025-2040- 95

2022 Abeja ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2022 Abeja ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from the Wahluke Slope, Walla Walla Valley, White Bluffs AVAs. It has 9% Merlot 8% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot blended in and was stored in 40% new French oak barrels for 20 months before bottling in August 2024. This is loaded with dense dark fruits, with Arabica bean, red bell pepper and sagebrush accents on the palate. Considering the vintage, this has terrific flavor density. Drink 2025-2042- 95

2023 Abeja ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Franc- The 100% varietal 2023 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Franc comes from both the Heather Hill and Skysill Vineyards. It was stored in mainly neutral French oak for 20 months before bottling, offering heady aromatics of red bell pepper and green herbs alongside suggestions of pencil lead and blackberry compote. This comes off with a terrific mouthfeel, with great flavor density, showing the heat of the vintage. Dense yet still showing an herbal streak, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2025-2042- 95

2022 Abeja ‘Heather Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2022 ‘Heather Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a world-class following up to the stunning ’21. All varietal, this was stored in 40% new French oak before bottling. On the nose this takes on black florals, dried herbs with shades of espresso and Black Forest Cake. The palate shows good freshness and a light saline streak with refined tannins and a massive wall of black fruits. This is a total stunner that will live on for decades. Drink 2025-2043- 96

2023 Abeja ‘Skysill’ Chardonnay- The thrilling 2023 ‘Skysill’ Chardonnay comes from this high-elevation location roughly one mile from Abeja’s Mill Creek winery. This is a breezy location with dramatic diurnal shifts, as the Chardonnay was aged in French oak for nine months before bottling. It shows the outstanding viscosity produced from this warmer vintage. The wine is a blend of three clones and was stored in mostly new French oak (light toast levels) before bottling. This is extremely weightless throughout the drinking experience. Marzipan and orange blossom water combine with shades of toasted brioche, roasted mango and shades of white peach all collide with copious minerals on the palate. The length of this wine is astonishingly good. This might have a touch more weight than the ’22. This is quite simply a must-try for any West Coast Chardonnay lover. Drink 2025-2037- 97

2021 Abeja ‘Skysill’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Once again made 100% varietal, the otherworldly 2021 Abeja ‘Skysill Estate Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon originates from this high-elevation, highly windy site in the Walla Walla Valley. Stored in mainly new French oak before bottling this has crazy good weight, length. and seamless character throughout the drinking experience.  Loaded with power, this bursts out of the glass with heady loganberry compote, creme de violette, Turkish coffee, graphite and Middle-Eastern spices. The mid-palate is highly concentrated and intense, with refined tannins, as this comes off opulent and refined, loaded with black and blue fruits, with cocoa powder, iodine and graphite accents. Pillowy, soft and decadent, this is a perfect wine made in a great vintage. Only 184 cases made. Tasted over two days with consistent notes. Drink 2026-2050- 100

2022 Abeja ‘Skysill’ Merlot- The 100% varietal 2022 Abeja ‘Skysill’ Merlot comes from one block in the vineyard, planted back in 2016 at the top of the property. This location creates very small berries as the wine is then fermented and stored in new French oak for 20 months before bottling in July 2024. Fresh sage marks the nose alongside suggestions of blackberry compote, kirsch cordial and suggestions of dark chocolate shavings. The palate is incredibly weightless, with great flavor density, salinity and loads of fresh herbs. This is pillowy, soft, highly novel Merlot that is truly one of a kind in Washington State. Drink 2025-2045- 98

TOR

A world-class wine lineup, for many years I have admired the wines of TOR. Tor Kenward is one of the great talents in the Napa Valley and spent 26 years building Beringer Vineyards. As their vice president he was instrumental in helping develop the brand into national prominence before retiring in 2001. For years the Beringer Reserve wines were truly some of the finest in Napa and Tor played a major role in that project. Beringer actually paid for Tor to study viticulture and enology following his retirement, as Tor built his brand as an ultra-premium producer single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons, sourcing from the top blocks within premium sites throughout Napa Valley. This electric lineup sources from famed sites such as Beckstoffer To Kalon, Vine Hill Ranch and Tierra Roja in Oakville, and Melanson on Pritchard Hill.

TOR has rather quietly been making some of the finest Chardonnay in the Napa Valley and I am totally blown away with the 2023 TOR ‘Cuvee Torchiana’ Chardonnay (OB, 97) which is amongst the finest Chardonnays from California that I have tasted this year. An otherworldly wine, the perfect 2023 TOR ‘Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 100) leaves no question that this is Napa Cabernet perfected. Learn more about these dazzling wines at https://torwines.com Here are the gorgeous new wines by TOR. 

2023 TOR ‘Cuvee Torchiana’ Chardonnay- A world-class Napa Chardonnay, the 2023 TOR ‘Cuvee Torchiana’ comes from old vine plantings. It is deeply colored and impeccably perfumed in the glass. Honeysuckle water and shades of sweet peach combine with salted Macadamia nut and vanilla creme brûlée on the nose. The palate is dense , opulent and seamless as this glides throughout the drinking experience. It is loaded with rich melon and tropical fruits, that meld well with tis seamless texture and salty nuances. This is amongst the finest editions of this wine that I have ever tasted. Drink 2025-2038- 97

2023 TOR ‘Oakville’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2023 ‘Oakville’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes the Double H Ranch (Harter) Vineyard, and Renteria 360 Vineyards in the Oakville AVA. Wines from this sites were were fermented apart but then blended back together during numerous blending trials spanning 15 months. Allspice, clove and cardamom dusted black fruits mark the nose alongside shades of violets, tar and black licorice. The palate is pure and fresh with terrific tension and great loamy/rocky soil character, with iron and beef dripping accents. Complex, delicious and also wonderfully nervy, this has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2025-2040- 95

2023 TOR ‘Vaca Ridge Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The Vaca Ridge Vineyard is a higher elevation site in Napa that is set on rocky soils, as this scenic location has grand views of the valley floor. This 3-acre hillside vineyard neighbors both Screaming Eagle and Dalle Valle. Red clay, creme de violette, and creosote notes mark the nose alongside dense blackberry compote. The palate is soft, heady and intense, with marvelously freshness that runs through its veins. It comes off weightless, as a gorgeous melange of black and blue fruit flavors caress you with graphite, crushed wet gravel and dark chocolate shaving accents. Wonderfully stony and bright, enjoy this highly complex bottling now and over the next twenty plus years to come. Drink 2025-2040- 98

2023 TOR ‘Vine Hill Ranch’ Cabernet Sauvignon-  An utter joy to consume right now, the ethereal 2023 TOR ‘Vine Hill Ranch’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from this Oakville location first planted back in 1978. It is now farmed by Bruce Phillips, as TOR sources from two blocks of Cabernet Sauvignon at this historic location. It is ultra-dark in the glass, offering loamy soils and pencil lead that collide with Black Forest cake, anise, and suggestions of Asian spices. The palate is utterly pillowy and seamless throughout the drinking experience. This is powerful, very eye-catching stuff that has a finish that won’t stop. Rocky, and loaded with dense dark and blue fruits, with savory herbal accents on the palate, do not miss out on this total stunner. It is an unforgettable wine that has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2025-2050- 100

2023 TOR ‘Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The otherworldly 2023 TOR ‘Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is easily one of the best wines I have tasted out of thousands this year. It is extremely dark in the glass, showing off sweet pipe tobacco and dark currant cordial notes alongside loamy soils, violet rose petals and suggestions of Middle-Eastern spices. The palate is silky smooth and opulent with tremendous viscosity and underlying finesse. A head-turning wine from a great vintage, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next twenty five plus years to come. This is quite simply perfection in a glass. Drink 2025-2050- 100

Ambar

One of the electric new Oregon wineries, Ambar Estate was recently founded by Pam Turner and Robert Townsend. This couple have diverse backgrounds, Turner being an author and Townsend a corporate attorney and entrepreneur. The couple bought land on Northeast Worden Hill Road in 2017 and planted their estate mostly to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It was quite a job removing the scrub oak and blackberries there. The land is farmed by the Results Partners.

For years I have admired the wines by Bryan Weil. Weil did incredibly well at Alexana for many years, cultivating their wine program and making one of the best range of wines in all of Oregon. He has degree in Enology and Viticulture with a minor in Chemistry from Oregon State University. He has worked at some of the world’s top wineries including Domaine Serene, Tyee Wine Cellars, Rain Dance Vineyards, Hogue Cellars, and Kim Crawford. These wines were sensational. I love the 2023 Ambar ‘Lustral’ Chardonnay (OB, 96) which is intense and voluptuous with terrific volume. Learn more at https://www.ambarestate.com/ and here are my reviews of the new Ambar Estate wines.

2023 Ambar ‘Dundee Hills’ Chardonnay- Another outstanding edition of this wine, the 2023 Ambar ‘Dundee Hills’ Chardonnay offers sea salt dusted pear, juicy peaches and shades of buttered French bread on the palate. Smooth and viscous, enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2025-2035- 93

2022 Ambar ‘Lustral’ Chardonnay- The 2023 ‘Lustral’ is a barrel selection Chardonnay that was stored in 35% new French oak before bottling. This comes off dense, rich and fat on the mouth with a terrific mouthfeel and gobs of minerality. This comes off seamless throughout the drinking experience. Salty minerals combine with rich citrus and orchard fruits on the palate. This is somehow even better than the ’22 edition. Enjoy now and over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2025-2035- 96

2023 Ambar ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir has a stellar nose. Strawberry and guava puree mark the aromatics alongside red rose petals, crushed wet rock and shades of Mandarin orange rind. This is seriously good, as the palate delivers a gorgeous melange of red and dark fruits, with rocky undercurrents. Lush and round at the mouth, this totally over-delivers for the price. Drink 2025-2038- 94

2023 Ambar ‘Sacra Terra’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 ‘Sacra Terra’ is a stunning wine coming entirely from the Dundee Hills AVA. Stored in mainly new French oak, the oak impact here is very minimal — but adds to the lush texture. This has depth and richness without being overly tannic. The rocky soil character really shines here as lush dark fruits combine with kumquat zest, and shades of bergamot. Drink 2025-2040- 95

Amulet Estate

Today we share the electric wines of Amulet Estate. Amulet Estate relies on the winemaking talent of Shawn Johnson who studied under eminent winemaker Phillipe Melka. The estate is a 20 acre property located in the northern Napa Valley in what historically was known as Dego Valley (now Italian Valley).Years ago the Dancing Hare wines were produced here. The former owner, Robert Brooks, spent many years in the software industry.  Brooks built the winery and cave which was completed in 2009.

I love the new wines. Check out the outstanding 2024 Amulet White Wine (OB, 94) is dense, weightless and beautiful Sauvignon Blanc that will go for another decade or more. Learn more at amuletestate.com  and here is my review of the new Amulet wines.

2024 Amulet Estate Sauvignon Blanc- The 2024 Amulet Estate Sauvignon Blanc comes from a small block at the estate vineyard. It shows beautiful cantaloupe and white peach aromatics that combine with freshly cut limes and shades of Challah bread on the nose. The palate is dense and rich with a terrific mouthfeel and beautiful underlying freshness. Heady and delicious, enjoy now and over the next decade. Drink 2025-2035- 94

2021 Amulet Estate ‘AE’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The brilliant 2021 Amulet Estate ‘AE Cabernet Sauvignon comes from the Yountville AVA, at this location that is sustainably farmed by the Bettinelli Family. It comes off medium-bodied with good freshness. Roasted figs and Arabica bean flavors collide with loamy and rocky soils on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next decade. Drink 2025-2035- 94

2019 Amulet Estate ‘Napa Valley’ Red Wine- A powerful, barrel selection proprietary blend from locations in St. Helena, Stags Leap, Oakville and Rutherford, the 2019 Amulet Estate ‘Napa Valley’ Red Wine is a dense and decadent bottling, offering damp loamy soils alongside espresso bean, black forest cake, cigar box and shades of black licorice on the palate. Full-bodied, with good underlying finesse, enjoy this beauty now and over the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2025-2042- 96

Cellar Selection: 2017 Chateau Pontet-Canet

Cellar Selection: 2017 Chateau Pontet-Canet

Today we are sharing one of the greats from the Left Bank of Bordeaux. Château Pontet-Canet is a Pauillac estate that dates back to the18th Century. It is originally named after former owner, Jean Francois de Pontet, who expanded the vineyard holdings by purchasing new property around the estate.  His descendants continued to purchase plots of land including some in the Canet area and thus, it was aptly named Château Pontet-Canet. This house because one of the biggest estates in the Médoc. 

While today this is a bit oudated, Château Pontet-Canet was classified as a Fifth Growth in 1855 and acquired by the Cruse family who owned the estate for 110 years.  The house saw a lot of changes in the 20th century and by1975, the vineyards had fallen into a state of disrepair.  The Cruse family sold it to the Tesseron family, a well-known name in the Bordeaux. While he does not see himself as a winemaker he has forced on making the best fruit possible in the vineyard, using biodynamic methods. He has partnered with Jean Michel Comme to do this as all viticulture is done by hand at Château Pontet Canet — and even no electricity is used during picking or sorting at harvest.

The wine I tasted most recently was from 2017. This was stuck between two powerhouse vintages — 2016 and 2018. These are elegant wines from this vintage and very much made in the older world style of Bordeaux. Alcohol levels are lower and the wines are more earthy than ’16 or ’18. I really love the way that this vintage has turned out and many of these wines are drinking marvelously now at the eight year mark. This 2017 Pontet-Canet (OB, 96) is silky, refined and elegant stuff, with plenty of depth and power. It needs several hours of air if consuming now. Learn more about this acclaimed house at https://www.pontet-canet.com/en/ and here is my review of the 2017 Chateau Pontet-Canet.

2017 Chateau Pontet-Canet- This is now the third time that I have tasted the fabulous 2017 Pontet-Canet — a world-class wine refined, elegant and also dense on the mouth. A blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, with smaller parts Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this shows off mocha, tar, allspice dusted blackberry and dark currants all combine on the palate, with espresso grounds and wet gravel notes. Medium to full-bodied, enjoy this outstanding wine now and over the next twenty years. Drink 2025-2044- 96

Sleight of Hand

One of my favorite spots to taste in Seattle, with locations in Walla Walla but also SoDo, Sleight of Hand has a consistently great lineup of reds and whites. Founded back in 2007 by Trey Busch and Jerry and Sandy Solomon they have focused on top vineyard spots like StoneyVine and Upland as well as WeatherEye and Lewis Vineyards. Keith Johnson has been with the team since 2011 and oversees wine production on a daily basis. Keith also makes some amazing wines under his Devium label that are incredible in their own right.

The wines were seriously good across the board. I love the new 2023 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah (OB, 96) which is more dense and chewy than its ’22 edition. It is texturally ethereal with fabulous flavor range. Learn more about this outstanding winery at http://www.sofhcellars.com Here are the awesome new release wines from Sleight of Hand.

2024 Sleight of Hand ‘The Magician’ Riesling- The 2024 ‘The Magician’ Riesling comes from the Evergreen Vineyard which is a cooler location in the Ancient Lakes AVA. This edition is bone-dry, made in the halb-trocken style, showing kerosene aromatic accents. Green herbs and sour yellow plum flavors mark the palate, alongside Gravenstein apple and a fat mouthfeel. This is going to pair with a dizzying array of foods. Drink 2025-2031- 92

2024 Sleight of Hand ‘The Enchantress’ Chardonnay- The 2024 ‘The Enchantress’ was sourced from some of the oldest Chardonnay vines in Washington State, from the French Creek Vineyard. Stored in mainly neutral oak barrels, this shows off nectarine, hazelnut and shades of sweetened gooseberry on the nose, with toasty brioche accents. The palate is dense and also very fresh, creating a mouth-watering acidity and excellent sense of length. Glorious now, watch this evolve over the next eight plus years. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2023 Sleight of Hand ‘The Sorceress Reserve’ Grenache- The 2023 ‘The Sorceress Reserve’ comes from some of the great sites in the state including the famed WeatherEye Vineyard as well as Upland and Les Collines Vineyards. Stored in just a touch of new French oak, this was mainly whole-cluster fermented. It is dense and viscous on the mouth with terrific volume and underlying tension. A pretty melange of red currants, pomegranate seed, red cherry compote and wild strawberry greet you on the palate, with blood orange zest, wet stone and menthol accents. Complex and highly delicious, this is best enjoyed over the next ten years — and is totally irresistible in its heady youth. Drink 2025-2035- 95

2023 Sleight of Hand ‘Levitation Reserve’ Syrah- The 2023 Sleight of Hand ‘Levitation Reserve’ Syrah is an ebullient bottling coming entirely from the famed Lewis Vineyard — a Columbia Valley site planted to a range of varietals, from Syrah and Chardonnay, set at 1270 feet. This bottling was aged in a combination of concrete tanks, neutral French oak and a touch of new French oak before bottling. It stands inky in the glass, showing its very classic purple flower character on the nose, with black Sharpie pen, smoked beef brisket, iodine and tar accents, alongside blackberry preserves. The palate is dense and heady, with no rough edges and lovely freshness. Enjoy this outstanding new Syrah over the next ten plus years. Drink 2025-2035- 94

2022 Sleight of Hand ‘Off He Goes’ Syrah- The 2022 ‘Off He Goes’ is a tribute to Walla Walla winemaker Erik Dunham, sourced from the Les Collines Vineyard which is set in the foothills of the Blue Mountains. The nose is utterly fabulous with crushed wet rock, Provencale herbs, white pepper dusted bacon and shades of creosote that all take shape in the glass. The palate is dense, viscous and heady with a silky texture and great sense of weight and finesse. Gorgeous to consume now, enjoy this brilliant, cooler vintage wine now and over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2025-2040- 96

2022 Sleight of Hand ‘The Illusionist Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2022 Sleight of Hand ‘The Illusionist’ Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from several locations in the Columbia Valley and was stored in 55% new French oak barrels for 20 months prior to bottling. This is delightfully smooth, polished and viscous on the mouth with plenty of power and concentration. Black tea and exotic spices march on with blueberry compote and suggestions of espresso grounds on the palate. A joy to consume now, this has at least another fifteen years in front of it. Drink 2025-2040- 94

2022 Sleight of Hand ‘The Archimage Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2022 ‘The Archimage Reserve’ is inspired by the wines of the Right Bank, utilizing near equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Wafts of red bell pepper combine with loamy soils, red currant jelly and suggestions of dark currants all mark the nose. The palate is lush and polished with a terrific mouthfeel and lovely salty nuances. Delicious now, enjoy over the next fifteen years. Drink 2025-2040- 94

2023 Sleight of Hand ‘Badlands’ Syrah- The 2023 ‘Badlands’ Syrah is a limited production bottling that is now in its second edition and was sourced from this location in the cobblestone laden soils outside Milton-Freewater. Aged in all neutral oak for 20 months, this shows incredible aromatics of oyster sauce and Arabica bean alongside black raspberry, charcuterie and suggestions of Satsuma orange zest. The palate is lush and beautifully textured, with serious texture and great verve. Enjoy this outstanding wine now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2025-2033- 95

2023 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- Another classy edition of this wine, the 2023 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah was sourced from the famed Stoney Vine Vineyard in the Walla Walla Rocks District. Stored for 16 months in natural oak, this opens with red raspberry and green olives alongside shades of white truffle shavings and wild herbs. The palate is both fresh and viscous with a fabulous texture and loads of mouth-watering acidity. This is made more akin to the ’22 bottling in terms of underlying finesse. Watch this beauty evolve over the next eight plus years. Drink 2025-2033- 96

2023 Sleight of Hand ‘Spiders From Mars Ziggy Stardust Block’ Syrah- A stunning edition of this wine, the ‘Spiders From Mars’ comes from the ‘Ziggy Stardust Block’ which is a stony site set on broken basalt at the Elevation Vineyard. Stored in neutral oak barrels for 20 months, this exudes class with amazing aromatic range from smoked pork shoulder and pink peppercorn notes alongside red cherry starburst candy, kumquat zest and suggestions of potpourri. The palate is wonderfully fresh and stony, with bright acidity and a smooth mouthfeel. Generous and vibrant, its core of red and dark fruits with herbal and stony elements, enjoy now and over the next ten years to come. Drink 2025-2035- 95

2023 Sleight of Hand ‘The Funkadelic’ Syrah- A stunning wine from this warmer vintage, the 2023 ‘The Funkadelic’ Syrah comes from ‘The Funk Vineyard’ in the Rocks District and was stored in neutral oak for 20 months prior to bottling. This shows outstanding flavor density and brilliant stony character. Hoisin sauce and violets mark the palate alongside chocolate cake, and shades of black licorice, with crushed wet rock. A glorious wine to consume now, enjoy over the next eight to ten years. But why wait? Drink 2025-2033- 96

Van Duzer

It was back in 1998 that Carl and Marilynn Thoma chose to settle on a windy knoll 2 miles down a dirt road in Dallas, Oregon. This 82 acre site was the location for their future winery. The Thomas had great success prior to starting Van Duzer. Carl grew up on his family’s cattle ranch in Oklahoma and learned about agriculture at an early age. He became intrigued by the fledgling California wine industry during his graduate school days. During the 1990’s, Carl began building a portfolio of premier California vineyards and gradually settled on the Willamette Valley as the site for a family estate winery. Carl is the Founder and Managing Partner at renowned private equity firm, Thoma Bravo.

Marilynn was key in designing the branding and has brand management experience at Quaker Oats and Cellular Network. Together they rely on winemaker Eric Misiewicz  who was originally raised in New Hampshire where he spent his summers working on local vegetable farms. This inspired a love for the land, leading him to Cornell University, where he received a degree in Viticulture and Enology.

The new wines were very good. I really enjoyed the 2023 Van Duzer ‘Estate’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which is dense and shows good length. Learn more about these wines at https://vanduzervineyards.com and here are my reviews of the new Van Duzer wines.

2023 Van Duzer ‘Estate’ Chardonnay- The 2023 Van Duzer ‘Estate’ Chardonnay comes off soft and generous with poached pear and brioche tones on the palate, with Meyer lemon zest and nutty underpinnings. Offering good length, enjoy now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2025-2033- 92

2023 Van Duzer ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 ‘Estate’ comes off a touch lean considering the richness of the vintage. Salted pomegranate and red cherry candy parade with orange peel on the palate. Drink 2025-2030— 90

2023 Van Duzer ‘Flagpole Block’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 ‘Flagpole Block’ Pinot Noir comes rom a steep, eastern block on the estate vineyard. Wet rock and cranberry flavors combine with shades of wild strawberry and salty minerals on the palate. Medium-bodied, enjoy now. Drink 2025-2031- 91

2022 Van Duzer ‘Homestead Block’ Pinot Noir- This barrel selection 2022 ‘Homestead Block’ Pinot Noir is already nicely evolved at the two year mark. Wild mushroom and suggestions of bergamot combine with wild blackberry and red currants on the palate. Drink 2025-2033- 92

J Vineyards

I long remember visiting J Vineyards many years back as it was one of the great spots to taste bubbles in California. They had a remarkably fun wine tasting atmosphere — more of visiting an ultra lounge than a wine tasting room. J Vineyards was founded in 1986, set in the Russian River Valley. In 2015 Gallo purchased the winery.

I have found that their ‘Cuvee 20’ has been one of the more consistent wines of its kind in California — one that delivers really good value for the price. Winemaker Nicole Hitchcock crafts a brilliant range of wines and she has been at the helm for ten years now. She has been named 2022 winemaker of the year for Wine Enthusiast magazine.

Check out her new lineup which is remarkably consistent. I adored the 2015 J ‘Russian River Valley Late Disgorged’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 95) which is very intense, heady and vibrant from this warm vintage. Learn more about these outstanding wines at jwine.com. Here are my reviews of the new wines from J Vineyards.

NV J ‘Cuvee 20’ Sparking Wine- Composed with a 2017 base this is ripe and round stuff showing off salted brioche and tangerine notes alongside suggestions of ginger and cardamom on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next several years Drink 2025 to 2025- 90

2021 J ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Sparking Wine- The rich and viscous 2021 J ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Sparking Wine opens with guava and ripe mandarin orange on the nose with pastry crust accents. This is dense and delicious stuff that is best enjoyed over the next eight years. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2015 J ‘Russian River Valley Late Disgorged’ Sparkling Wine- The dazzling 2015 ‘Late Disgorged’ is a stunning ten year old wine sourced from the Russian River Valley. This opens with a silky, moose and refined texture with a great saline edge. Fresh pastry alongside candied, lemon and suggestions of Japanese pear all mark the nose. The palate is dense and delicious with a terrific mouthfeel and great sense of tension. Toasted almond with Bosque pear mingles whale with pink grapefruit blossom and shades of wild mushroom on the palate.This is quite complex showing off the heat of the vintage with its richness in viscosity. It is indulgent to enjoy now and will be best savored over the next eight plus years. Drink 2025-2033- 95

2023 J ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Gris- A unique wine for this region, the 2023 J ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Gris delivers gooseberry and peach notes on the nose alongside suggestions of starfruit and baking spices. The palate is soft and elegant. Rich melon fruits combine with shades of cinnamon and cloves on the pallet. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2025- 2030- 90

2023 J ‘Russian River Valey’ Pinot Noir- The really good 2023 J ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir delivers kirsch and strawberry noted on the nose with smooth mouthfeel. This is loaded with juicy red fruits on the palate. Drink 2025-2031- 91

2023 J ‘Bow Tie Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2023 J ‘Bow Tie Vineyard’ Pinot Noir offers, black tea and exotic spices on the nose, alongside, black cherry, compote, and shades of black raspberry. The mouthfeel is soft and inviting with an enduring texture and excellent viscosity. This is already drinking beautifully now at the two year mark. Drink 2025-2035- 93