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Rick Small and Darcey Fugman-Small founded Woodward Canyon back in 1981.

Rick Small and Darcey Fugman-Small founded Woodward Canyon back in 1981.

Woodward Canyon

December 12, 2018

One of the most prestigious Washington wineries, Woodward Canyon is one of the state’s historic wineries, first founded in 1981.  Leading the charge has been owner and founder, Rick Small, who is one of the state’s great winemakers. I can recall epic older vintage wines that I have tried from them including great Chardonnays from the early 1990s as well as awesome ‘Aritist Series’ Cabernet Sauvignons from the early 2000s. Rick is humble despite all his successes and is a downright awesome guy to chat wine with. Myt first visit to Woodward Canyon came in 2002 while I was completing my undergraduate studies at Whitman College. With its laidback atmosphere and cozy, country cottage feel, it is one of the great tasting rooms in Washington.

I am always impressed with Woodward Canyon Chardonnay. Their new bottling, the 2017 Woodward Canyon ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay (WWB, 93) shows a wonderful viscosity and tension. At this price this is one to purchase by the case, as the wine will continue to evolve nicely over the next decade. Contrary to some other wine reviewers, I think that the 2015 Woodward Canyon ‘Artist Series’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 92) is a downright gorgeous bottling with its silky mouthfeel, light tannic backbone and copious dark fruits. The best wine that I tried was the 2015 Woodward Canyon ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 94) which is a decadent treat that is meant for the cellar. Learn more about these outstanding wines at woodwardcanyon.com Here are the great new wines by Woodward Canyon.

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2017 Woodward Canyon ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay- Woodward Canyon has gained a national reputation for producing high quality Chardonnay. This great new release, the 2017 Woodward Canyon ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay, is sourced from a host of great vineyards across the state. The wine was aged in a small percentage of new French oak prior to bottling. Ironically the wine was bottled on my birthday in May, 2018. The nose takes on a ton of appeal with roasted pineapple, toasty oak, Pink Lady apple and brioche aromatics. The palate shows a wonderful tension, astringency and richness. Gravenstein apple, brioche, and Meyer lemon creme brûlée flavors all strut their stuff in the glass. This is a gorgeous wine that has some good cellaring potential. Drink 2018-2028- 93


2015 Woodward Canyon ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot- Founded in 1981, Woodward Canyon has produced a Merlot wine for more than 20 years. Showing really good dark and red fruits on the nose, the toasty oak nicely wraps around this wine. Black cherry, blackberry pie and mocha flavors all nicely combine on the palate, showing good richness and minerality. Drink 2018-2028- 91


2015 Woodward Canyon ‘Artist Series’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Woodward Canyon has produced an ‘Artist Series’ Cabernet Sauvignon since 1992. I can recall some of my favorite ‘Artist Series’ bottling over the years, including the stunning 2001, the under the radar 2004 and the opulent 2005 wines. Forward, with toasty oak on the nose, this 2015 ‘Artist Series’ shows cassis, mocha and anise aromatics. The palate shows good viscosity and tension with creme de cassis, anise, coffee ground and blueberry compote flavors that impress. Showing good mid-palate weight and tension., this will cellar well over the next decade. This may not be the most long-lived Artist Series, but it is downright delicious right now. Drink 2018-2028- 92


2015 Woodward Canyon ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2015 ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from a host of great vineyards in the Columbia and Walla Valleys including their estate vineyard as well as the Sagemoor and Champoux Vineyards. Inky once in the glass, the wine shows creme de cassis, anise, sweet pipe tobacco and tar aromatics that fill the nose. The palate is plush, rich and downright seductive. Mocha, anise, sagebrush and blueberry compote flavors entice. While this is drinking marvelously right now, this will cellar well for the next two plus decades. If enjoying in its youth, be sure to give this beauty at least a two hour decant. Drink 2018-2035- 94

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Sean Boyd has been crafting some outstanding wines at Rotie Cellars since 2007.

Sean Boyd has been crafting some outstanding wines at Rotie Cellars since 2007.

Rotie Cellars

December 11, 2018

Since 2007, Rotie Cellars and owner/winemaker Sean Boyd has focused on crafting outstanding Rhône style wines from great Washington vineyards. Boyd makes a host of wines including his Northern and Southern red and white blends. Each are a homage to the respective regions of the Rhone. Rotie Cellars has tasting rooms both in Walla Walla and in the SoDo District of Seattle.

I really enjoy spending time with Sean Boyd and talking wine. Sean is one of the wonderful people in Washington wine who is both highly knowledgable and highly humble despite his obvious talents. Originally from Tacoma, Sean got his start at Waters Winery in 2004. Sean finally made the decision to open his own winery 2007, focusing solely on Rhone varietals. He has planted an exciting vineyard in the Walla Walla Rocks region. He is a great winemaking talent and I was very impressed with his latest release red and white wines. His 2016 Rotie Cellars ‘Northern Blend’ Red Wine (WWB, 94) is an insanely good red blend sourced from Walla Walla Rocks region that shows really good range and wonderful mid-palate richness. This is one for the cellar. Nearly as good was the 2016 Rotie Cellars ‘Southern Blend’ Red Wine (WWB, 93) which impresses with its red fruit character and brilliant stony character. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://www.rotiecellars.com Here are the outstanding new release wines by Rotie Cellars.

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2017 Rotie Cellars Rose- This pale colored Rose is a blend of 85% Mourvedre with the remainder Syrah. The brightness of the wine shines with melon and delicate red fruits, that connect with touch of sweetness on the palate. Refreshing and forward, enjoy this in the short-term. Drink 2018-2022- 90


2017 Rotie Cellars ’Northern White’ White Wine- The 2017 ‘Northern White’ is a silky blend of 70% Marsanne and 30% Roussanne, this great wine shows a sumptuous nose of honeysuckle and gardenia with candied white peach. The palate has an old-world feel, with lychee, lemongrass and Pink Lady apple flavors shining brightly. Drink 2018-2022- 91


2017 Rotie Cellars Grenache Blanc- The 2017 Grenache Blanc by Rotie Cellars is one of the best of its kind in Washington. This wine begins with very delicate aromas of gooseberry and green apple slowly build in the glass. Serious astringency marks the palate, as mouth-watering acidity provides a wonderful experience. Enjoy this in its youth while the striking and intense minerality remains. Drink 2018-2022- 92


2016 Rotie Cellars ‘Southern Blend’ Red Wine-  The 2016 ‘Southern Blend’ by the talented hands of Sean Boyd is compelling blend of 70% Grenache with the remainder Mourvedre and Syrah. This wine shows a marvelous stony character on the nose with blood orange and red currant jelly singing as well. The palate shows a marvelous texture and tension The range on the palate and mouth-watering acidity makes this nearly impossible to resist right now. This will continue to evolve in the cellar over the next decade. Be sure to give this a one hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2018-2028- 93


2016 Rotie Cellars ‘Northern Blend’ Red Wine- The 2015 ‘Northern Blend’ by superstar winemaker Sean Boyd shows a plethora of aromatics including Asian spice, cigar box, lychee and damp earth with lighter wet stone tones. The hedonistic character on the nose brings you back to the glass for more. The palate is both lithe and rich, showing a marvelous texture that coats the mid-palate. Umami, Hoisin sauce, cigar ash and blackberry cobbler flavors beautifully mingle in the glass. Seductive, with marvelous tension, this is a stunning wine by Rotie Cellars. Drink 2018-2028- 94


2015 Rotie Cellars ‘Swordfight’ Red Wine- Made with 50% Mourvedre sourced from the Wallula Vineyard and 50% Syrah sourced from the Phinney Hill Vineyard, this inky colored wine begins with aromas of smoke, wet stone and blood orange with a touch of milk chocolate that build in the glass. The palate shows a wonderful freshness with dried herbs, cigar box, blackberry pie and red currant. The acidity and tension drives this excellent wine. Drink 2018-2028- 92

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Great photo here of Giles Descotes who has served as cellar master at Champagne Bollinger since 2003.

Great photo here of Giles Descotes who has served as cellar master at Champagne Bollinger since 2003.

Champagne Bollinger

December 11, 2018

One of the great historic houses in Champagne, Bollinger remains independently owned and operated. This Champagne house has an exceedingly rich history. Family-managed since 1889, Bollinger maintains more than 150 hectares of vineyards. They produce several labels of their Champagne, including the Vieilles Vignes Françaises, Grande Année and R.D. as well as the non-vintage Special Cuvée. Initially founded in 1829 by Hennequin de Villermont, Paul Renaudin and Jacques Bollinger, the champagne house has roots dating back to 1585 when the Hennequins, one of the Bollinger founding families, owned land in Cramant. In 1803 Jacques Joseph Placide Bollinger was born in Ellwangen, in the kingdom of Wurttemberg, in modern day western Germany. In1822, he moved to the Champagne region and began work at the Champagne house of Muller Ruinart, which today no longer exists. 

The Champagne house Renaudin Bollinger was founded on February 6, 1829 in Aÿ by Hennequin de Villermont, Paul Levieux Renaudin and Jacques Bollinger. Founder Jacques Joseph Bollinger married Charlotte de Villermont and their two sons Joseph and Georges would later take over Bollinger and began expanding the family estate by purchasing vineyards in nearby villages. The sons also developed the image of the brand, and the British began to take notice of these Champagnes — such as when Bollinger received a Royal Warrant in 1884 from Queen Victoria.

In 1918 Jacques Bollinger, the son of Georges, took over Bollinger. Jacques married Lily, who later took over Bollinger in 1941. Lily expanded production through the purchase of more vineyards, but is best known for traveling the world to promote the brand. Bollinger was modernized under the direction of Claude d'Hautefeuille, who acquired additional vineyards and developed the brand internationally. Since 1994, Ghislain de Mongolfier has managed Bollinger. A great-grandson of the founder, Mongolfier has also served as president of the Association Viticole Champenoise since 2004, after heading the Commission of Champagne for 10 years. Brilliantly, Bollinger has been well-marketed in numerous James Bond films including some of my favorites like Live and Let Die and a bottle of Bollinger appears following an epic car race in Goldeneye.

I recently had a chance to review two Bollinger wines. I was absolutely blown away with their new release non-vintage wine, the NV Champagne Bollinger ‘Special Cuvee’ Brut Champagne (WWB, 92). This shows a wonderful musty character with great richness and texture. I think it is one of the great Champagnes at this price point. Considerably more expensive but even better was the 2004 Champagne Bollinger ‘La Grand Annee’ Brut Champagne (WWB, 94) which showed even more earthy and musty terroir and great citrus and tree fruit flavors. Learn more about this special Champagne house at Here are the great Champagnes of Bollinger.

NV Champagne Bollinger ‘Special Cuvee’ Brut Champagne- The nose shows wonderful mustiness with damp earth and wet stone that connects with lemon zest and sourdough bread.The palate reveals a wonderful combination of weight and freshness with kumquat, Chalah bread, and Granny Smith apple marvelously woven together. Refreshing yet showing good mid-palate weight this outstanding effort will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2018-2028- 92

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2004 Champagne Bollinger ‘La Grand Annee’ Brut Champagne- This golden-hued Champagne is a compelling blend of primarily Pinot Noir (66%) with lesser amounts Chardonnay (34%). This wine shows a wonderful range of aromatics from white truffle to citrus zest and baked apple, as well as hints of marzipan and nutmeg. The balance and mid-palate weight is wonderful here with white tea, honeydew melon, Pink Lady apple and candied lemon. Showing great poise and tension, this great wine is simply marvelous now but will cellar well for the next two decades. Drink 2018-2038- 94

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Great photo here of Beaux Freres head winemaker, Mike Etzel.

Great photo here of Beaux Freres head winemaker, Mike Etzel.

Beaux Freres

December 6, 2018

A famed Oregon estate located in the Ribbon Ridge AVA, Beaux Freres was founded by Michael Etzel more than twenty years ago. While on vacation in 1986 Michael came across an 88 acre pig farm. After some consideration he decided to purchase the land with his brother in law, Robert Parker, and the rest became history. Michael focused on his job as vineyard manager by planting Pinot Noir in the Ribbon Ridge AVA and while planting his vineyard, he interned at Ponzi Winery. In 1990, Michael harvested his first crop and sold the grapes winemakers Ken Wright and Dick Ponzi. Michael decided there was something special with his vineyard and began making focused, mineral-driven Pinot Noirs from this special site. The wines were reviewed with incredible acclaim. These wines from 2002 and 2005 in particular stand out to me as truly some of the great wines ever made in Oregon. Recently his son, Mike Etzel, has taken over as head winemaker. While the winemaking style has slightly changed, the wines remain highly poised and show tremendous texture and finesse.

Mike’s new release Pinot Noirs come from the warm 2016 vintage in Oregon. They were all tremendous across the board. I was amazed by the 2016 Beaux Freres ‘Gran Moraine’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) which is one of the best Oregon wines that I have sampled in the last year. The wine shows insanely good range and minerality. While it is delicious now it has a long life left in the cellar. Look to the 2016 Beaux Freres ‘The Beaux Freres Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) which is just as good and showcases its marvelous silky texture and bright minerality. It is a seriously sexy new Pinot Noir. Learn more about this great historic Oregon estate at https://www.beauxfreres.com/ Here are the fantastic new release wines by Beaux Freres.


2016 Beaux Frères ‘Gran Moraine’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 Beaux Freres ‘Gran Moraine’ Pinot Noir is a stunning new wine. The wine is sourced from the Yamhill Carlton AVA and starts with bright strawberry puree, red currant jelly and peat moss that fill the nose. The palate shows wonderful freshness and good tension with Earl Grey tea, white pepper, red currant and red cherry candy. The range and texture is wonderful. Enjoy this over the next ten to fifteen years Drink 2018-2030- 95


2016 Beaux Frères ‘Zena Crown’ Pinot Noir- The esteemed Zena Crown vineyard is located in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA and is set on volcanic soils. The nose shows wonderful volcanic terroir with dark currant and black tea with nutmeg aromas. The mouthfeel is fantastic here which shows great richness and tension. Black tea, wild blackberry, Mandarin orange rind and peat moss flavors all impress. This is a simply stunning effort by Beaux Freres. Drink 2018-2033- 95


2016 Beaux Frères ‘Guadalupe’ Pinot Noir- This great Pinot Noir by Beaux Freres is sourced from the Guadalupe Vineyard, planted by Ken Wright in the 1980s. The nose shows earthy terroir with wild mushroom, peat moss and red cherry preserves. The palate is fresh and lithe showing red currant, orange zest and peat moss flavors. Earthy and lithe, this is a wonderful effort that shows great terroir and poise from this warm vintage. Drink 2018-2030- 94

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2016 Beaux Frères ‘The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 Beaux Freres ‘The Beaux Freres Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a simply marvelous new effort from this storied estate. The Ribbon Ridge AVA wine shows wonderful earthy terroir on the nose. This shows a wonderful combination of red and dark fruits on the nose with Asian spice and forest floor aromatics. The palate shows good richness and tension with red currant, red cherry candy, strawberry puree and orange rind flavors with a touch of peat moss. Rich and focused, this will cellar well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2018-2033- 95


2015 Sequitur ‘Ribbon Ridge AVA’ Pinot Noir- This is a project winery by Beaux Freres founder Michael Etzel. The wine is entirely sourced from the Sequiter Vineyard, located in the Ribbon Ridge AVA and planted to 17 different clones of Pinot Noir. The wine shows bright strawberyr, red currant jelly and red cherry candy with earthy terroir on the nose. The palate shows wonderful freshness with a strong citrus rind component complementing the red fruits. The near minute long finish lingers. Drink 2018-2033- 94




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Rebekah Wineburg is the talented winemaker behind the gorgeous new 2015 Quintessa Red Wine.

Rebekah Wineburg is the talented winemaker behind the gorgeous new 2015 Quintessa Red Wine.

Quintessa

December 5, 2018

QuFormed back in 1989, Agustin and Valeria Huneeus found an enticing property in the Rutherford AVA spanning 280 acres of rolling hills and small valleys. What was initially a rather slow growing project, the Quintessa now has 160 acres planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Carménère on 26 vineyard blocks. Having visited the property on several occasions you are awestruck with the hills and valleys of the land. The modern style winery is pushed against the hillside, and has sweeping views of the beautiful property. It is a great property to visit when in Napa. 

Their proprietary red wine, Quintessa, Quintessa may include some or all of the five Bordeaux varietals. Wine from each plot is aged separately for two years in French oak and then blended. Rebekah Wineburg has a long-standing history in the wine industry previously working at famed Italian property Tenuta dell’Ornellaia. Returning to the U.S., she served as enologist for the Staglin Family Vineyard in Napa Valley and then moved to Rudd Winery in Napa, serving assistant winemaker and working with famed enological consultant Michel Rolland. In 2015 she was promoted to head winemaker at Quintessa. Her new release was a stunning wine that has a marvelous sense of place. The terroir in the wine is truly remarkable as is the blending. The 2015 Quintessa Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) is a proprietary blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,  Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Carmenere. It is a seriously good wine that is absolutely delicious in its youth but will continue to gain complexity with five to ten years in the bottle. Simply put, this is one of the best from the Rutherford AVA. Learn more about this famed Napa winery at https://www.quintessa.com/ Here is my review of the 2015 Quintessa Red Wine.

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2015 Quintessa Red Wine- The 2015 Quintessa Red Wine is shows good richness and wonderful poise from this great vintage in Napa Valley. The wine is a silky proprietary blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,  Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Carmenere. The wine starts off with an ultra dark fruit profile with mocha, tar, sweet pipe tobacco and creme de cassis. The palate reveals an incredible mouthfeel and texture. Beautifully balanced, this shows ripe Turkish coffee, black tea, rich tobacco leaf and black cherry compote flavors. This is a stunner that will age for decades. If enjoying young give this a three plus hour decant. Drink 2018-2040- 95

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Here is the talented cellarmaster of Champagne Collet, Sébastien Walasiak.

Here is the talented cellarmaster of Champagne Collet, Sébastien Walasiak.

Champagne Collet

December 5, 2018

We are in the midst of the holiday season, one to raise our glasses and drink marvelous sparkling wines and Champagnes. It is intriguing that Champagne was not always the popular celebratory choice. Champagne did not gain in prominence until well into the 20th century. It was the founding of the COGEVI (cooperative general winemakers of champagne delimited) that played a major role in the founding history of the Champagne appellation. The group’s founders Victor Philibert, Elie Blée and Roland Dupont, had the business plan to create and commercialize their own brands, including Champagne Raoul Collet. Five years after its inception, the cooperative already had over two hundred members. The cooperative was present at many exhibitions, where their Champagnes received many accolades and became a major player in the Champagne market in less than a decade. Expansion continued for Champagne in the roaring 30s. With some brilliant marketing Champagne became the drink of choice for the rich and famous. 

Champagne Collet is Located in Aÿ, at the heart of the Champagne region. Collet′s vineyards are largely sourced from 650 hectares of Premier and Grand Cru estate vineyards across Champagne. Sébastien Walasiak has served as cellarmaster at Champagne Collet for many years. Born in Epernay in 1966, Sébastien grew up in Champagne had a stint at Champagne Delamotte before working for Champagne Pommery in 1988. There, he worked as a cellar operator until 1993. In 1994, Walasiak joined the COGEVI, which remains the oldest cooperative in the region, becoming cellar manager for the co-op’s flagship brand, Champagne Collet. I recently had the chance to review some of the most recent vintage offerings from Champagne Collet, including the 2004, 2006 and 2008 vintages. A bit now on these exciting vintages.

2004 was a high-yielding vintage that was the largest harvest in history. Grapes were healthy and achieved good phenolic ripeness as the growing season was near picture-perfect. A slight step down in overall quality, 2006 was marked by some rain and humidity through August but the quality of the fruit was generally ripe and balanced since to large diurnal shifts in Autumn. Not having any of the challenges of 2006, 2008 is considered to be one of the best vintages in Champagne in recent memory, up there with the epic 2000 vintage. The releases by Champagne Collet were striking across the board. Learn more about this fantastic Champagne house at http://www.champagne-collet.com Here are the beautiful vintage Champagne releases by Champagne Collet.

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2008 Champagne Collet ‘Collection Privee’ Brut- The 2008 ‘Collection Privee’ Brut by Champagne Collet is showing marvelously at this time and has a long life ahead of it. Green apple, lemon rind and biscuit aromas fill the nose. The palate shows wonderful tension and richness with a nice salinity. Chalky terroir impresses here alongside flavors of green apple, green papaya and Meyer lemon zest flavors that all impress. The balance and tension despite its age is gorgeous here. Drink 2018-2030- 93

2006 Champagne Collet ‘Collection Privee’ Brut- An excellent effort from a somewhat challenging vintage, the 2006 Champagne Collet Brut shows great poise and range. The nose comes off wonderfully earthy, yielding wild mushroom, damp soil biscuit, and Gala apple aromas. The beautiful texture coats the mid palate. Green apple, white peach, freshly baked Challah bead, and kumquat flavors all impress. Drink 2018-2028- 92

2004 Champagne Collet ‘Collection Privee’ Brut- The 2004 Brut Champagne by Champagne Collet is a stunning wine by cellarmaster Sébastien Walasiak that has an exceedingly long life ahead of it. Crafted from roughly 75% Chardonnay grapes, this compelling Champagne yields the most prominent of citrus tones of the bunch both aromatically and on the mouth. The citrus zest, Challah bread and Gravensteins apple aromas impress and build with more air. The palate is plush showing wonderful weight and a great saline streak. Green apple, sourdough bread, kumquat and wild mushroom flavors all come together marvelously. This is a long aged. Drink 2018-2033- 93 

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Marcus Notaro crafts some fantastic new release Cabernet Sauvignons for Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars.

Marcus Notaro crafts some fantastic new release Cabernet Sauvignons for Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars.

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars

December 4, 2018

One of Napa’s great historic wineries, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars is probably best known for producing the Cabernet Sauvignon that won the 1976 Judgment of Paris. Founded in 1970, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars began with the founder purchasing a 44 acre property which was a prune orchard and replanted it to Cabernet Sauvignon and a touch of Merlot. Three years later Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars produced a S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon. In 2007 the winery was purchased by Chateau Ste. Michelle and the Antinori family. 

Marcus Notaro has been at the winemaking helm since 2013. For the former winemaker at Col Solare, Marcus took this prime Napa position and has been crafting some excellent wines ever since. While at Col Solare he crafted some of the best wines that have come from that property. The new releases by Stag’s Leap were seriously good. The best wine that I have ever had from this property, the 2015 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ’S.L.V.’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) has a wonderful elegance alongside the incredible dense fruits. Nearly as good was the 2015 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘FAY’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 94) which is dense, layered and downright delicious. Learn more about this fantastic historic estate at https://www.cask23.com/ Here are the great new releases by Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars.


2015 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘Artemis’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Artemis’ shows good Cabernet character both aromatically and on the palate. Mocha, anise and creme de cassis aromas delight in the glass. This takes on a soft texture as the wine has already evolved quite nicely. Medium to full bodied flavors of mocha, blackberry jam, sage and cassis all impress on the palate. Enjoy this excellent wine over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 91

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2015 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ’S.L.V.’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2015 ‘SLV’ by Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars is an incredible new release that is amongst the best that I’ve had from this storied estate. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine was aged in 95% French oak for 21 months prior to bottling. Upon arousal the seductive nose shows beautiful sandalwood, mocha, anise and creme de cassis aromas. The mouthfeel and texture to this wine is simply fabulous. Flavors of blueberry compote, blackberry cobbler,  mocha and anise impress. Delicious now this is Cabernet Sauvignon that will have a long life. Drink 2018-2033- 95


2015 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘FAY’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2015 ‘FAY’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a seductive and dense bottling by the talented Marcus Notaro. This Cabernet was aged for 22 months in 89% new French oak prior to bottling. The wine opens with dense aromas of mocha anise amd black tea and mocha the palate shows. Really good elegance with creme de cassis mocha and Turkish coffee. This is delicious Cabernet Sauvignon that will have a long life in the cellar. Try to resist this beauty for at least another year. Drink 2019-2040- 94

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Todd Alexander is one of Washington’s great young winemakers. He has crafted a stunning new set of releases for Force Majeure Vineyards.

Todd Alexander is one of Washington’s great young winemakers. He has crafted a stunning new set of releases for Force Majeure Vineyards.

Force Majeure Vineyards

December 4, 2018

It has been quite some time since I have visited the releases by Force Majeure Vineyards. Located on the steep upper slopes of Red Mountain, the Force Majeure Vineyard is set at 960 to 1,230 feet and is plated to Syrah and Grenache as well as Bordeaux varietals. It is a gorgeous setting with expansive views of the Columbia Valley. Recently Force Majeure purchased a small vineyard in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA to round out their collection of wines. They’ve even managed to secure land at the North Fork of the Walla Walla river and will soon plant at that very special, steep-sloped site set on broken basalt. 

In 2014 Todd Alexander came to partner with proprietors Paul and Susan McBride which was a game-changer for this winery. The wines have increased considerably in quality since that time. Todd formerly served as winemaker for famed Bryant Family Vineyard in the Napa Valley. At Bryant, he worked with famed vineyard manager David Abreu as well as consultant extraordinary, Michel Rolland. Todd is a downright awesome guy to chat wine with and he is making some seriously stunning wines that deserve national attention. Todd’s winemaking style is rich and beautifully textured. He is able to craft wines that beautifully showcase this warm site but also maintain good acidity and show wonderful decadence and a rich mouthfeel.

Be on the lookout for Parabellum releases by Force Majeure which show good value, especially their 2015 Parabellum ‘Alluvio’ Red Wine (WWB, 92) which I highly recommend for its really good richness and dark fruit flavors. One of the great Syrahs that I have tried this year, the 2015 Force Majeure Syrah (WWB, 95) is the best Syrah I have tried from this AVA and shows gobs of dark fruit, serious fruit weight and a wonderful minerality. The texture of this wine is insanely good. The Bordeaux style wines from Force Majeure were hugely impressive as I highly recommend that you look into purchasing each of them. The 2015 Force Majeure Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) is a decadent treat with a wonderful viscosity and tension. This wine is drinking marvelously right now. One of the great Tempranillo bottlings in Washington, the 2015 Force Majeure Tempranillo (WWB, 95) shows wonderful richness and complexity and an incredible mouthfeel. Kudos to superstar winemaker, Todd Alexander, for his latest set of stunning releases out of Red Mountain. Learn more about these special wines at https://forcemajeurevineyards.com Here are the fantastic new wines by Force Majeure. 


2015 Parabellum ‘Coulee’ Red Wine- The ‘Coulee’ is a blend of 56% Syrah and 44% Mourvedre. Showing off an inky color, this wine begins with an intense bouquet of black tea, chocolate covered dark cherry and Hoisin sauce. Ripe and showing a lovely rich mouthfeel, the wine shows off deep dark fruit flavors with chocolate and roasted dates. This decadent wine is best enjoyed in the short-term. Drink 2018-2024- 91


2015 Parabellum ‘Alluvio’ Red Wine- The 2015 Parabellum ‘Alluvio’ Red Wine is a silky blend of 54% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot. The nose shows good complexity and richness with anise, creme de cassis, coffee grounds and earthy terroir. Once in the mouth there is a feeling of decadence as the wine unveils its rich texture. Black Forest cake, mocha and cigar box flavors all nicely combine and build with more air. Inviting and delicious, this great effort can be enjoyed over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 92

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2015 Force Majeure ‘Parvata’ Red Wine- The ‘Parvata’ is a fantastic blend of 46% Mourvedre, 34% Syrah and 20% Grenache all sourced from the Force Majeure Vineyard on Red Mountain. I love the deep aromatics to this wine, ranging from smoked duck to roasted date to chocolate torte. The palate is exceedingly plush and decadent, showing a touch of opulence. Asian spice, pipe tobacco, blackberry cordial and milk chocolate fudge flavors all combine marvelously and build in the glass. Despite the serious weight of the wine there is a good minerality that provides ample backbone. Generous and downright delicious, enjoy this fantastic red blend over the next decade or so. Drink 2018-2028- 94


2015 Force Majeure Syrah- The 2015 Force Majeure Syrah is a stunning new release by the talented Todd Alexander.Grown on the top of the mountain hillside vineyard, this great wine was aged for 18 months in used French oak prior to bottling. At this juncture the wine has evolved marvelously. Gobs of blue and dark fruits greet you on the nose with lighter damp earth and citrus rind undertones that aromatically provide some nice complexity. The palate is not only decadent but shows a good degree of elegance despite its obvious fruit weight. Blueberry compote, mocha, creme de cassis and sandalwood flavors all marvelously combine. A massive Syrah, this is built for aging a decade or more. Give this an hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2018-2028- 95


2015 Force Majeure Tempranillo- A unique bottling for the AVA, the 2015 Force Majeure Tempranillo is a stunning new wine made by Todd Alexander. Showing off a deep hue, this Tempranillo shows wonderful earthy terroir with smoked brisket and black fruits the fill the nose. The palate shows of a marvelous texture and a silky mouthfeel that delights. Creme de cassis. Turkish coffee, cigar ash and Earl Grey tea flavors all marvelously combine on the palate. Decadent and rich considering the varietal, this is a spectacular and novel bottling that will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2018-2035- 95


2015 Force Majeure ‘Epinette’ Red Wine- The 2015 ‘Epinette’ is a silly blend of 50% Merlot with 30% Cabernet Franc and the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot all sourced from the Force Majeure Vineyard. This wine really needs a two hour decant to be fully aroused aromatically. The wine shows brilliant aromatics of brandy soaked cherry, sagebrush, creme de cassis and coffee grounds. The mouthfeel is rich and seductive, showing mocha, anise, creme de cassis and black cherry compote flavors. Rich, polished and layered, this is a simply spectacular showing by Force Majerue. Drink 2018-2038- 95


2015 Force Majeure Cabernet Sauvignon- A massive and decadent Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2015 Force Majeure shows off its inky color in the glass. Needing two hours to breathe in the decanter, the wine slowly starts to unveil ultra-rich aromas of sweet pipe tobacco, creme de cassis, graphite and blackberry cobbler with dark chocolate shavings. The mouthfeel is highly viscous and smooth, delighting the senses. Creme de cassis, loganberry cordial, black forest cake and cigar box flavors all combine with mouth-watering acidity. A complete wine, this decadent treat will cellar well for decades but is completely irresistible right now. Drink 2018-2040- 95

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Great photo here of Sleight of Hand co-founder, Trey Busch, in his Ziggy Stardust Block of the Elevation Vineyard.

Great photo here of Sleight of Hand co-founder, Trey Busch, in his Ziggy Stardust Block of the Elevation Vineyard.

Sleight of Hand

December 3, 2018

One of the great lineups of Washington wine, Sleight of Hand was founded in 2007 by Trey Busch and Jerry and Sandy Solomon. The winery focuses on both estate and non-estate fruit and has slowly been increasing production since the winery’s inception. Trey (a fellow Pearl Jam fan) is a downright awesome, down to earth guy that has attained great success in a relatively short amount of time. Their production winemaker, Keith Johnson, is highly talented and he also produces great wine under his Devium label.

Look for the 2016 Sleight of Hand ‘The Enchantress’ Chardonnay (WWB, 93) which has a great combination of range on the palate. It is a delicious Chardonnay that has some nice aging potential. I was absolutely blown away with the 20167 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah (WWB, 95) sourced from the esteemed Stoney Vine Vineyard. The wine is the best ‘The Psychadelic’ release that I have sampled and it shows insane range and a marvelous texture. This is a stony, terroir driven Syrah that is not to be missed. Learn more about this outstanding winery at http://www.sofhcellars.com Here are the awesome new release wines from Sleight of Hand.


2016 Sleight of Hand ‘The Enchantress’ Chardonnay- This beautiful wine shows a bright aromatic profile of toasty brioche, poached pear, and Meyer lemon cream. The palate shows a wonderful mouthfeel and texture. I absolutely love the viscosity here. Vanilla creme brulee, green apple and nutmeg flavors all beautifully combine. The freshness and energy here is seriously good especially considering the obvious heat of the vintage. A complete wine, this will cellar well for a decade. Drink 2018-2026- 93


2016 Sleight of Hand ‘The Sorceress’ Grenache- This enticing Grenache was sourced from three different sites: The Upland, French Creek and Ziggy Stardust Vineyards. The nose delivers some wonderful wet stone character with rose petal and red cherry candy aromatics connecting nicely. The palate is downright sexy, showing delicate red fruits with a silky mouthfeel. Delicious and nicely poised, considering the heat of the vintage, this wine will be best enjoyed over the next six plus years. Drink 2018-2026- 93


2016 Sleight of Hand ‘The Spellbinder’ Red Wine- The ‘Spellbinder’ is largely comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot all sourced from the Columbia Valley. The nose is forward, delivering copious dark fruits and chocolate aromatics. The mouthfeel is soft as toasty oak wraps around dark fruits and mocha flavors. This is delicious in its youth. Drink 2018-2024- 90


2015 Sleight of Hand ‘The Illusionist’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A terrific new release, ‘The Illusionist’ is a silky blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 5%Petit Verdot. The wine spent 20 months in 65% new French oak prior to bottling. On the nose this reveals nice herbal tones from the Cabernet Franc, while black fruits dance with milk chocolate. The palate has a silky mouthfeel, unveiling coffee grounds, blackberry cobbler and sagebrush with cigar ash flavors. Drink 2018-2026- 91


2016 Sleight of Hand ‘The Conjurer’ Red Wine- This wine is a compelling blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot with a touch of Petit Verdot. The nose shows some toasty oak with black fruits and lighter green herbal tones. The mouthfeel is soft as the wine shows a good combination of mid-palate weight and tension. Blackberry cobbler, crushed mint, spice box and anise flavors all mingle nicely together. Drink 2018-2026- 91


2015 Sleight of Hand ‘The Archimage’ Red Wine- The Sleight of Hand winemaking team has sourced this wine from a host of AVAs, as this is a left bank style blend of 57% Cabernet Franc and 43% Merlot. The nose shows lighter herbal tones with red and dark fruits playing in the foreground. The wine shows wonderful varietal character and tons of mouth-watering acidity. Seriously good, the wine is best enjoyed over the next six to eight years while this wonderful tension remains. Drink 2018-2026- 92

2016 Sleight of Hand ‘Levitation’ Syrah- The ‘Levitation’ Syrah was largely sourced from the Lewis Vineyard as well as smaller portions from the Les Collines and Ziggy Stardust Vineyards. The nose is sensational, showing wonderful range from dark fruits to creosote to lighter citrus and herbal tones. The palate is plush and shows off a gorgeous and round mouthfeel. Copious dark fruits mingle with chocolate and earthy terroir flavors on the palate. A stunning wine, this will cellar well for the next eight plus years. Drink 2018-2026- 93

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2016 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- The best wine in the new outstanding Sleight of Hand lineup, ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah is a head-turning wine sourced from the esteemed Stoney Vine Vineyard in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA. The Syrah was aged in 25% new French oak for 16 months prior to bottling. The terroir on the nose is evident, ranging from wild blackberry to orange zest and green olive tapenade to smoked brisket and wet stone. The silky mouthfeel invites you to take the next delicious sip. There is a wonderful energy and tension to this wine as well that impresses. Blackberry pie, cigar ash, wet stone, Mandarin orange rind and Hoisin sauce all combine marvelously on the palate. Given an hour of air the flavors become even more impressive as the texture evolves to be wonderfully mouth-coating.  While this is delicious now, the wine will continue to evolve over the next decade — but it is nearly impossible to resist right now. Drink 2018-2026- 95

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The 2013 MTR Productions ‘Memory Found’ Syrah is a head-turning wine that shows wonderful poise, salinity and stony terroir.

The 2013 MTR Productions ‘Memory Found’ Syrah is a head-turning wine that shows wonderful poise, salinity and stony terroir.

MTR Productions

December 3, 2018

The highly anticipated second edition of MTR Productions was just released by Matt and Lauren Reynvaan. MTR Productions is the exciting new venture created by Matt and Lauren Reynvaan. The wine shows marvelously what an aged wine from the Walla Walla Rocks AVA can do in the right hands. To my knowledge this is the first wine from this AVA that has seen such extensive barrel and bottle aging. 

The 2013 ‘Memory Found’ is comprised of 100% Syrah from the warm 2013 vintage. Only 150 cases are made of this special wine. The wine saw extensive aging in neutral French oak and 600L oak puncheons and then saw 36 months of bottle age. Just like their previous wine, I absolutely adore this new wine by one of the great talents in Washington wine, Matt Reynvaan. The Syrah shows insanely good texture, range, salinity and stony terroir. The stony aspect in the wine is more subtle as the savory notes and citrus components evoke wonderful mouth-watering acidity. Simply put, this is a stunning new release that is not to be missed. Learn more about this exciting project at http://www.mtr-productions.com Here is my review of the 2013 MTR Productions 'Memory Found' Syrah. 


2013 MTR Productions ‘Memory Found’ Syrah- The 2013 ‘Memory Found’ by superstar winemaker, Matt Reynvaan, is a head-turning and seductive new release Syrah. On the nose this shows massive range from Hoisin sauce to peat moss to wet stone and citrus rind to brandied dark cherry. Despite its age and obvious heat of the vintage, the palate is lithe and youthful, showing a wonderful tension and purity of fruit. Pipe tobacco, chocolate covered dark cherry, roasted fig, wet stone and blood orange zest with Umami flavors all marvelously combine. The salinity of the wine also adds to the discussion. Lithe, rich and showing insanely good range, this is a stunner that is best enjoyed within the next five to ten years. Drink 2018-2028- 96

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Brooke Robertson is the talented director of viticulture for Delmas (photo by Richard Duval)

Brooke Robertson is the talented director of viticulture for Delmas (photo by Richard Duval)

Interview with Brooke Robertson, Delmas Director of Viticulture

November 29, 2018

One of the great Washington wines, the Delmas Syrah, originates from the SJR Vineyard located in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA of Milton-Freewater. If you haven’t had this wine yet, it is a must buy for not only Syrah lovers but those seeking excellent typicity of this exciting region. The SJR Vineyard is a majestic sight and is overseen by Brooke Robertson who serves as the vineyard’s director of viticulture. Having visited the vineyard on several occasions, it is a very special site with vines set on huge cobblestones. Brooke is a wonderful personality. Full of knowledge and humble, she has created a very special mini-head trained system at her vineyard. I think you will enjoy hearing more about her story in wine. Here is my interview with Brooke Robertson, Delmas Director of Viticulture. 

WWB: How did you decide to study winemaking and viticulture? 

BR: Life has a funny way of delivering you right where you need to be, when you need to be there…Even though you may not be able to see it at the time... It all ends up being for a reason. Being a kid in the Napa Valley, running amuck through the head trained Zinfandel vines at Hayne Vineyard, and then having the ability to play a role in the management of those same vines as an adult; was the moment for me when I thought, Yup… I’m going to play in vine rows my whole life. It’s fantastic. My undergrad is in Philosophy (OSU), and when I declared, I read through a list of possible careers for that particular degree. “Winemaker” was the first. After SJR’s inception, and while my father was leading The Rocks District AVA approval, I went back to school at WWCC for an AAAS in Enology and Viticulture. After which, I headed to Napa Valley for, what was supposed to be a 3-month internship working for Barbour Vineyard Management.

Five years later, after working harvest in Australia for Torbreck, working for other truly great Vineyard Management companies in the Napa Valley, and studying for a Master’s degree in Viticulture at Cal Poly (San Luis Obispo); I returned to Walla Walla. What I love about this business, is that there is always some uncertainty in it. By that I mean, there is no black or white... you live in the grey areas. Mother nature can change on a dime, and you’ve got to roll with her. You never feel as though you’ve mastered the vineyard because the mark is always moving. There is always something new to learn, and I love that.

WWB: What was it like serving as Viticulturist for The Napa Valley Reserve?

BR: t was like reaching Mecca. I developed a long-running dialogue with Mark Griffin (Vineyard Manager; TNVR) years prior to receiving a job offer. Every so often I would check in with Mark and see how the current season was going… Always, ending the conversation with “If you ever need an extra hand, let me know!” They gave me a shot, and it was by far one of the best experiences of my life. I was entrusted with considerable responsibility and was provided the tools to deliver on the highest level of expectations. Whether that was in the rows, or in the winery. Having the opportunity to operate under the terms of a “200 Year Plan” similar to that of my own family, was priceless.

WWB: Can you talk about how you have been developing one of the Pacific Northwest’s great vineyards, the SJR Vineyard?

BR: At SJR Vineyard, we are fortunate to be able to think in terms of longevity. Our goal for Delmas has always been world-class, distinctive wines that showcase “place”. Viticulture in the cobbles of The Rocks District demands specialized farming practices. Creativity, investment and critical adaptation(s) of current farming practices are essential for SJR. One example of that level of creativity is the MHT system of vine training. This Mini-Head- Trained system is basically a goblet vine with a trellis; a very low, single trunk vine structure with an open head. It allows for us to more evenly regulate crop load, and most importantly, to be able to bury the entire vine post-harvest over the winter. This allows for ultimate protection against killing freezes, as well as creating a perennial wood structure. No more burial canes!

Previously, our burial cane experience at SJR resulted in cutting the entire vineyard to the ground (due to killing freezes), three times in the last decade. For us, this method was not sustainable. Hence the development and implementation of the MHT; an entirely new training form arriving out of necessity, given the specific climatic/geological realities experienced within this region. With the MHT, someday we will have old, craggily vine structures, just like those old-world eccentric vines that look so majestic… I can’t wait until the vineyard hits 50 years old!

WWB: The 2016 Delmas Syrah (WWB, 96) is one of the best wines from Washington that I have sampled all year. Can you talk about how this amazing wine is made and the 2016 vintage?

WWB: Thank you Owen! The 2016 (10th leaf for SJR) was a wonderful vintage, and a fairly even growing season. We harvested mid-September, and the fruit spent six (6) days in a cold soak. Ferments for Delmas run fairly smooth given the, higher than average, YAN that comes off of SJR Vineyard. Our Syrah style targets roughly 8% Viognier in the co-ferment.

Depending on the year, (and how lignified the stems are at harvest) we adjust the percentage of whole cluster fermentation (33% for 2016). The balance of Syrah, and all of the Viognier is destemmed. Our oak profile is more aggressive than most Syrah producers given SJR’s unique ability to seamlessly absorb oak tannins: 60% new and 40% one-fill barrels. 14 months in barrel and bottled in December. The terroir of SJR directs our Delmas winemaking expectations. Soils are finer at SJR due to the location of the Vineyard on the edge of the SW corner of the AVA. This is where all the energy (and Rocks) from the Walla Walla River fell out. These fine soils help to provide the distinctive aromatic range of Delmas. As well as the wines textural qualities and length on the palate.

WWB: You have recently concluded harvest at the SJR Vineyard. Can you talk about the growing season and the fruit that was harvested? What will we expect from the 2018 Delmas Syrah?

BR: 2018 was a truly fascinating season. We experienced just about all aspects of extreme weather! The winter was more temperate than 2016/17, which was nice given the first full winter for the MHT! Even then, however, we had some hail and lingering snow in February. Spring, while a bit more wet than normal, arrived with a bang, and the vineyard rushed through bud-break and bloom fairly quickly. Fruit set was even, and the crop was bountiful. The MHT did a fantastic job, balancing canopy/cover of the fruit zone and providing just the right amount of dappled light and air flow.

Summer was extremely hot, with 16 days in a row over 100 degrees. The smoke that settled in early August, prevented UV light from penetrating, and slowed phenological ripening. We ran our overheads quite frequently during this time to cool things down. By the end of the month, however, the heat subsided, and the day/night temperature shifts helped to preserve acid and develop flavor. September was ideal for Harvest, no rain all month, and brilliant days of 70-80 degrees with nights in the 50s. We harvested on September 10th. New winemaking protocol this year! We did our first barrel fermentations and used puncheons to barrel ferment 1/3 rd of the fruit. Already the wine is showing even more complexity and seamless integration. In a string of solid vintages, this one was truly exceptional, with loads of aging potential. 2018 is also the first year Delmas will be producing a varietal Viognier, and it is currently resting in puncheons after completing ML. We are very excited about producing this new wine. Condrieu is the inspiration. Keep an eye out for Delmas Viognier in 2020!

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Without a doubt, the Riedel Vinum Burgundy glass is the proper stemware for Washington Grenache.

Without a doubt, the Riedel Vinum Burgundy glass is the proper stemware for Washington Grenache.

Proper Stemware for Washington Grenache

November 28, 2018

Washington Grenache enchants me. I love the range of flavors and aromatics that the varietal can yield and the quality of Washington Grenache wines will only continue to build. It is now the highest priced Washington varietal to purchase and more and more Rose wines are being made with Grenache, as top wineries like Cayuse Vineyards, Gramercy Cellars, and DeLille Cellars are utilizing the varietal in their silky, stand alone Rose wines. 

The Washington Wine Blog number one wine from both 2016 and 2017 has been the Cayuse Vineyards ‘God Only Knows’ Red Wine, which is predominantly Grenache. I am surprised that this wine does not receive the same attention that we give it. Simply put, there is nothing quite like it in the world. Last August I had the opportunity to visit Cayuse and visit with Christophe Baron and his talented assistant vigneronne, Elizabeth Bourcier. I’ll admit that I am a serious about using varietal specific stemware when I taste wines and we all started chatting about what they consider to be the proper stemware for their incredible Grenache wines. ‘Without a doubt,’ Christophe mentioned ‘the Burgundy glass is the proper glass for these [Grenache] wines.’ I had been experimenting quite a bit with wines from my collection at home, often vacillating between the Riedel Vinum Syrah glass and the Riedel Vinum Burgundy glasses. I looked at Elizabeth and she echoed the same sentiments, noting that the Riedel Vinum Burgundy glass is what she recommends for her gorgeous La Rata wines. We all tried experimenting together, from Grenache in the Riedel Burgundy glass to the wine in a Zalto Burgundy or other glasses and we were all amazed how much better their Grenache wines showed in the Riedel Burgundy glass.

I had to do more experimenting on my own. On a subsequent trip to Napa I had the chance to try the 2012 Cayuse Vineyards ‘God Only Knows’ Red Wine up against the 2012 Rasa Vineyards ‘Primus Inter Pares’ Grenache, both some of the top Grenache made in Washington and both from stony terroir. I tried these wines in four different stemware choices — Riedel and non-Riedel glasses made for Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. I was overwhelmed how much better the Grenache wines tasted out of the Riedel Vinum Burgundy glass. It also showed considerably better in the Riedel than the Zalto Burgundy glass as it had at Cayuse as well.

But what about Grenache from the Yakima Valley? Surely those wines could yield a different result? When I arrived home I was on a mission to resolve this query and I did the same thing with two different Grenache wines made from Grenache sourced from the Boushey Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. The results were very similar, the wines initially showed considerably better in the Riedel Vinum Pinot Noir glass. After more air and decanting the differences between the flavors and aromatics of Grenache in the Pinot Noir glass became even more resounding.

I have attended two Riedel Tasting Seminars before and have been blown away by the results. As a caveat, I have never been paid by Riedel or comped any stemware or any seminar from them. I would encourage all of you to attend this class to see how varietal specific stemware enhances the flavors and aromatics of wine. I am astounded how differently Washington Grenache tastes with a Riedel Vinum Burgundy glass and I would encourage all of you who love Washington Grenache to experiment with using this stemware at home to see the tangible difference. 



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Superstar winemaker, Aryn Morell, and his wife, Edith, craft some gorgeous new wines for their namesake winery, Morell-Pena.

Superstar winemaker, Aryn Morell, and his wife, Edith, craft some gorgeous new wines for their namesake winery, Morell-Pena.

Morell-Pena

November 27, 2018

One of the great project wineries you may have not heard of yet out of Walla Walla, Morell-Pena is the brainchild of talented Washington winemaker, Aryn Morell and his wife, Edith, first started in 2014. The idea was to focus on limited production Chardonnay and Pinot Noir — a wonderfully unique concept in the state. As many of you know, Aryn Morell has become one of the state’s most prolific winemakers, making wine for Matthews, Ardor, Tenor and his own label, Alleromb. Aryn and Edith have thoughtfully chosen to name their Chardonnay bottlings after their daughters, Gemma, Ysabella and Camylla and crafting each wine after their own individual personalities. 

Up there with the best sparkling wine out of Washington that I have sampled this year, the 2017 Morell-Pena ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 91) shows racy acidity and bright citrus tones. This is a striking effort that showcases the Morell’s impressive arsenal of of winemaking. I really enjoyed all of his new Chardonnay releases, rating all at 92 points or exceptional, all of which were true to the style of wine that Aryn was attempting to create.  The best wine I tried was whimsically named the 2015 Morell-Pena ‘The Royal Bull$#!+) Syrah (WWB, 93) which shows wonderful range and earthy terroir that is delicious now but will age well for a decade. Learn more about this fantastic winery at https://www.morell-pena.com Here are the great new wines by Morell-Pena.

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2017 Morell-Pena ‘Blanc de Blanc’ Sparkling Wine- This was aged for three months in concrete prior to bottling, as this is a zero dosage bottling. The wine shows lovely citrus tones on the nose with kumquat and lemon rind shining brightly. This has wonderful astringency and is wonderfully refreshing. White flower, kumquat and wonderful acidity shines. This is up there with the best in the state. Drink 2018-2022- 91


2017 Morell-Pena ‘Blanc de Noir’ Sparkling Wine- The 2017 Morell-Pena ‘Blanc De Noir’ Sparkling Wine shows a powerful nose with intense citrus and melon coming in. The wine shows a wonderful astringency and texture with really good weight. Wild strawberry, melon and citrus rind flavors come to mind. This is a serious Sparkling. Drink 2018-2022- 91


2017 Morell-Pena Chardonnay- Crafted in a fresher style, this Chardonnay begins with aromas of honeydew melon, poached pear and creme brûlée on the nose. The texture to the wine is truly outstanding with wonderful brightness and a long, lingering cream and citrus driven finish. This is seriously good for the price. Drink 2018-2024- 91


2015 Morell-Pena ‘Gemma Camaryn’ Chardonnay- This Chardonnay shows a deeper hue with aromas of vanilla cream, nutmeg and creme brûlée. The weight and balance to this wine is truly outstanding. Wonderfully rich, this natural wine shows a really good opulence and mouthfeel on the palate. Drink 2018-2026- 92


2016 Morell-Pena ‘Ysabella Bjork’ Chardonnay- This nose has wonderful vanilla cream, honeydew melon and citrus rind aromatics that build in the glass. The mouthfeel and balance to this wine is fantastic with vanilla cream, Meyer lemon zest and nutmeg. This has wonderful fruit weight on the mid-palate that entices. Drink 2018-2026- 92


2016 Morell-Pena ‘Camylla Loren’ Chardonnay- Showing a beautiful dark hue, this begins with aromas of wild mushroom and light earthy tones with wet stone and vanilla cream. This shows good intensity and minerality with a wonderful mouthfeel and excellent weight. This finishes strong with vanilla cream. Drink 2018-2026- 92


2016 Morell-Pena ‘Gemma Camaryn’ Chardonnay- This shows vanilla cream and Meyer lemon zest on the nose. The palate shows a really good minerality and mouthfeel with god intensity. This has a wonderfully rich finish. Drink 2018-2026- 92


2017 Morell-Pena Rose- Made from Pinot Noir grapes, this great Rose begins with aromas of rose petals, red cherry and guava on the nose. The palate shows good richness and intensity with wonderful richness and texture. Drink 2018-2022- 91


2015 The Royal Bull ‘Royal Bull($#!+)- The wine is sourced from the Lawrence and Stoneridge Vineyards, a blend of Tempranillo and Grenache. The 2015 Syrah starts with aromas of black tea, smoked brisket, black olive tapenade and wet rock. The palate shows a sexy mouthfeel and wonderful richness with red fruits and citrus rind shining through with earthy and smoky tones. Only 201 cases made of this great wine. Drink 2018-2028- 93

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Rob Campisi crafts some outstanding new wines for Dunham Cellars.

Rob Campisi crafts some outstanding new wines for Dunham Cellars.

Dunham Cellars

November 26, 2018

One of the great stops in Walla Walla, Dunham Cellars was first founded in 1995, and is located in the Airport District. Dunham produces one of the great lineups in Washington, ranging from their Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Trutina (Bordeaux style blend), Three Legged Red (red table wine) and the "Shirley Mays" Chardonnay, a dedication to Eric Dunham’s grandmother. With their friendly and knowledgable staff and laid back atmosphere Dunham has been a favorite stop of mine for more than fifteen years. 

Rob Campisi resides over the winemaking at Dunham. He has been at the winery for many years and has crafted a really good new lineup. Look to the 2015 Dunham Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 92), which is downright delicious and delivers serious dark fruits. Dunham has gained a national reputation for their Riesling wines and the 2015 Dunham ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Riesling (WWB, 91), shows a wonderful bouquet and tension. This is a serious wine that will pair marvelously with shellfish and sushi. The best wine that I sampled in this great lineup was the 2016 Dunham Cellars ‘Late Harvest’ Riesling (WWB, 95) which is insanely good and is one of the best Washington dessert wines that I have tried in a year. Learn more about this great winery at dunhamcellars.com. Here are the wonderful new release wines from Dunham Cellars.


2015 Dunham Cellars ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Riesling- This shows nice freshness and tension, as tree and citrus fruits dominate with a touch of Meyer lemon rind. This shows really good persistence and will cellar well over the next five to seven years. Drink 2018-2024- 91


2016 Dunham Cellars Late Harvest Riesling- A limited case production this outstanding Riesling (27.3 RS) sourced from the Lewis Vineyard. The wine shows a golden hue and takes on apricot jelly, bananas foster and Meyer lemon oil. The palate brings so much intensity and purity of fruit. Candied pineapple, mango, apricot jelly and Meyer lemon oil flavors all marvelously come together in the glass. Drink 2018-2028- 95 


2016 Dunham Cellars ‘Shirley Mays’ Chardonnay- Sourced from the Kenny Hill Vineyard, as well as the Lewis Vineyard, this begins with wonderful aromas of banana, poached pear and brioche;. The wine shows a seamless mouthfeel as it glides through the mid-palate. Brioche, vanilla creme brulee, and bananas foster all come together beautifully in the glass. Drink 2018-2026- 92


2016 Dunham Cellars ‘Three Legged Red’ Red Wine- This begins with aromas of smoke, black olive tapenade and black tea and a touch of milk chocolate. The palate shows good richness and tension with black tea, blackberry cobbler and mocha flavors. Drink 2018-2024- 89


2015 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- The wine shows 54% Cabernet with also a smaller percentage of Merlot (34%) with lesser parts Malbec and Cabernet Franc that was aged in 30% new oak prior to bottling. This wine begins with aromas of black tea, Asian spice, sagebrush and blackberry cobbler. This shows a good combination of richness and tension from this warm vinatage. Drink 2018-2026- 91

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2015 Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2015 Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon is a fantastic effort from this warm vintage. The wine shows toasty oak that wraps around blackberry cordial and smoked meats with sagebrush undertones on the nose. The palate is soft, delivering a silky mouthfeel. Light tannins connect with copious dark fruits and chocolate flavors. This is downright delicious now. Enjoy this in the next eight plus years. Drink 2018-2028- 92


2015 Dunham Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah- The 2015 Dunham Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah was largely aged in puncheon (40% new) as it is sourced from the Lewis, Phinney Hill Vineyards as well as the Kenny Hill Vineyard. This starts off with smoked pork shoulder, blueberry compote and cocoa powder. This is truly outstanding Syrah that is drinking beautifully now but will continue to evolve well over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 93


2014 Dunham Cellars ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Syrah- The ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Syrah by Dunham Cellars was aged in French oak puncheons. The wine is Phelps clone Syrah that was planted in the late 1990s. This shows a wonderful purity of fruit with black fruits being dominant and chocolate edge as well. Drink 2018-2030- 93

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Here I am pictured with Erica Orr (L) and Lisa Baer (middle) at Baer Winery, one of Woodinville’s great wineries.

Here I am pictured with Erica Orr (L) and Lisa Baer (middle) at Baer Winery, one of Woodinville’s great wineries.

Baer Winery

November 21, 2018

One of Washington’s great boutique wineries, Baer was founded in 2000 by Lance Baer. Lance was known for crafting exceptional red wines as many of his wines were met with critical acclaim. Since the tragic passing of Lance, now more than ten years ago, Erica Orr has taken over as winemaker. Erica Orr got her start in the wine industry back in 1998, working her first harvest with eminent winemaker Cathy Corison in the Napa Valley. She immediately caught the wine bug and enrolled in the enology master’s degree program at UC Davis where she completed her master’s degree in 2003. Erica also has a bachelor’s degree in biochemistry from UC Berkeley and three years of research experience as a biochemistry lab technician for 2009 Nobel Laureate Dr. Elizabeth Blackburn at UC San Francisco. 

Her background in chemistry gives her a very precise, scientific winemaking style that I have been impressed by over the years. She has become one of the great winemakers in the state with her highly focused, Bordelaise style, carefully crating red wines from the famed Stillwater Creek Vineyard, that are built to age. Located in the Woodinville Warehouse District, While Baer focuses on crafting red blends they also make a downright killer Chardonnay. Their 2017 Baer ‘Shard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 92) is the best release of this wine that I have sampled since they have made the wine. It is wonderfully astringent and shows really good weight and range. This wine is a superb value. The red wines were just as good, if not better. Look to the 2015 Baer ‘Star’ Merlot (WWB, 93) which is absolutely fantastic now but will continue to age gracefully for a decade or more. I highly recommend that you seek out the great new lineup of Baer wines. Learn more about this great Woodinville winery at at baerwinery.com Here are the great new releases by Baer

Baer Winery Logo.png


2017 Baer ‘Shard’ Chardonnay- The 2017 ‘Shard’ by superstar winemaker Erica Orr shows really good aromatic range from sourdough bread to kiwi to vanilla creme brulee. The palate shows really good brightness and richness with vanilla cream, Pazzaz apple and kiwi with nutmeg accents. This is seriously good and shows wonderful intensity. Enjoy this in the short-term while the bright minerality remains. Drink 2018-2024- 92


2015 Baer ‘Star’ Merlot- Entirely sourced from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard, located on the Royal Slope of the Columbia Valley, this outstanding bottling shows a really good purity of fruit on the nose with red cherry, boysenberry liquor and sagebrush accents. The palate shows some good mid-palate weight as red currant jelly, red cherry pie, and suggestions of chocolate pie flavors wonderfully combine in the glass. Bright, showing good acidity considering the heat of the vintage, this excellent wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 93


2015 Baer ‘Callisto’ Red Wine- The ‘Callisto’ is a compelling blend of primarily Cabernet Sauvignon (57%) with the remainder Syrah (27%), Petit Verdot (15%) and a hint of Merlot (1%). The Cabernet is quite prominent on the nose with creme de cassis and graphite aromas connecting with lighter sagebrush and chocolate tones in the glass. Silky and compelling in the mouth, anise, cassis and black cherry cake flavors all impress. Showing good richness and minerality this is an outstanding effort by superstar winemaker Erica Orr. Drink 2018-2028- 93


2015 Baer ‘Arctos’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard, the ‘Arctos’ is a spectacular bottling by Baer. The wine shows true Cabernet character with red bell pepper, cigar ash, blackberry cobbler and milk chocolate the fills the nose. The palate shows good mid-palate weight and intensity, with dark fruits that connect with mocha and sagebrush tones. Downright delicious, this beautiful wine will age well for a decade or more. Drink 2018-2028- 93


2015 Baer Malbec- Showing off deepest hue of the great new Baer lineup, the 2015 Baer Malbec begins with a good combination of blue and dark fruits that fill the nose. The palate is decadent, mineral-driven and exceedingly delicious. The palate essentially mimics the nose with blueberry compote, milk chocolate and blackberry preserves. Truly one of the best bottlings in the state, with wonderful viscosity and tension, the 2015 Baer Malbec will have a long life in the cellar. Drink 2018-2030- 93

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Here we have a few of many beautiful wines that would sit marvelously at your Thanksgiving table.

Here we have a few of many beautiful wines that would sit marvelously at your Thanksgiving table.

Pacific Northwest Wines for Thanksgiving

November 20, 2018

Pacific Northwest Wines For Thanksgiving


As Thanksgiving nears I wanted to share some great wines from our Pacific Northwest region that I would recommend to pair with turkey. I’ve had the chance to review more than a thousand wines from the Pacific Northwest so far this year and with my sommelier background I have some enticing pairings in store for you. Pairing Northwest wines with turkey is actually quite easy. Since people choose a cornucopia of side dishes at their Thanksgiving table, I thought it would be most helpful for the turkey pairing recommendation and explaining why it works well.


Sparkling Wines


2015 Argyle ‘Brut’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 92)- This is viscous and lithe at the same time with marvelous tree fruit flavors and a buttery finish that will complement nicely both turkey and rich sides. 


2015 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Brut’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 91)- What I love most about this pairing is not only the weight and tension but lovely saline streak that pairs well with salted side dishes.

2014 ROCO Wines ‘RMS’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 94)- Winemaker Rollin Soles is a master of crafting marvelous sparkling wine. This one is truly one of the best in North America, with serious weight and verve that will stand up to any rich bird.


Rose Wines


2017 Big Table Farm Rose (WWB, 93)- This works well with the beautiful red fruits and weight of the wine that comes from the barrel aging that they do. The light red fruits also will marvelously complement cranberry sauce.


2017 DeLille Cellars Rose (WWB, 93)- This wine was the joint top-scoring wine from my 2018 Rose Report. It is rich, showing a wonderful texture. That will stand up to turkey really well. 


2017 Gramercy Cellars Rose (WWB, 92)- Again, the textural elements of the scintillating Rose match well with turkey. I love the weight and minerality of this gorgeous wine.


White Wines


2017 Cristom Pinot Gris (WWB, 92)- This is one of the great Pinot Gris wines that I have sampled in the past year, with tremendous weight and beautiful tree fruit flavors that stand up well to any bird.


2016 Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Chardonnay (WWB, 95)- This downright stunner of a Chardonnay has a marvelous mouthfeel and complements any buttery side dish (rich stuffing, mashed potatoes etc.).


2016 Kerloo Cellars ‘Celilo Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 91)- Winemaker Ryan Crane makes some of the best Chardonnay in the state. This effort is earthy and Burgundian but finishes with some nice butter and cream. It is well-poised and works well with cutting through any buttery side dishes. 


Pinot Noir Wines


2016 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 94)- This is one of the best Nuthouse Pinots I have sampled in the past fifteen years. It is earthy, fruity and has marvelous texture, as this versatile Pinot will match not only the weight of the bird but the acidity will cut through any creamy side.


2016 Knudsen Vineyards Pinot Noir (WWB, 92)- I love the earthy aspects of this great Pinot Noir but this, too, has the weight to stand up to turkey.


2016 Megan Anne Cellars ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 92)- Megan Anne Cellars is an Oregon winery founded by famed Washington winemaker, Mark Ryan McNeilly. This new edition is jam packed with rich dark fruits and earthy terroir. The combination of weight and earthy tones matches this marvelously with not only the turkey but earth-driven mushroom dishes.

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Jean-Francois Pellet is the superstar winemaker behind the great new lineup of Pepper Bridge wines.

Jean-Francois Pellet is the superstar winemaker behind the great new lineup of Pepper Bridge wines.

Pepper Bridge

November 20, 2018

One of the most beautiful sites in the Walla Walla Valley, Pepper Bridge is perched on a hill with stunning views of the estate vineyards —Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills and Les Collines, some of the famed vineyards in Washington. It is a gorgeous spot to taste wines, especially in the summer, with its sweeping views of the valley. Pepper Bridge is known for its restrained, Bordelaise style of winemaking, led by their talented head winemaker Jean-François Pellet. A third generation wine grower, Pellet’s wines have received considerable acclaim and he continues to produce seriously good wines for both Pepper Bridge and their sister winery, Amavi Cellars. 

Highly engaging and charismatic, Pellet has degrees in both enology and viticulture and has previously interned in Germany, Switzerland and the Napa Valley. After graduating, he managed vineyards and made wine in Switzerland and Spain. Pellet then worked for Heitz Cellars for four years until he was recruited to work at Pepper Bridge. The new wines by Pellet were outstanding across the board, although I would give a slight edge to the 2014 wines which had a touch more mid-palate stuffing. The wines by Pepper Bridge show good ripeness, great varietal typicity and wonderful tension. Look to the downright delicious 2014 Pepper Bridge ‘Trine’ Red Wine (WWB, 93) which has wonderful weight and tension. Just as good was the amazing 2014 Pepper Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 93) which is one foe the cellar with marvelous tension and great Washington Cabernet character. Learn more about this fantastic Walla Walla winery at www.pepperbridge.com. Here are the great new release wines from Pepper Bridge winery.

Pepper Bridge 2018 red wines.jpg


2014 Pepper Bridge ‘Trine’ Red Wine- The 2014 ‘Trine’ by Pepper Bridge is a compelling blend of 37% Cabernet Franc, and 34% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder lesser parts Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The wine has been bottled since March 2016 and starts off with red currant jelly, cigar ash and blackberry pie aromas. The palate shows wonderful poise and balance. Delicious red and dark fruit flavors mingle with chocolate and sagebrush undertones. Inviting and downright delicious now, this gorgeous wine will cellar well over the next decade or more. Drink 2018-2030- 93


2015 Pepper Bridge ‘Trine’ Red Wine- Comprised of mainly Cabernet Franc (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (28%) and Merlot (18%), with smaller portions Malbec and Petit Verdot, this wine was aged in 100% French oak (39% new) for 17 months prior to bottling in March 2017. The ‘Trine’ shows an aromatic range of smoke, green belll pepper and copious dark fruits that fill the nose. The palate reveals a silky texture and a lithe acidity. Roasted fig, blackberry jam, cigar box and milk chocolate covered dark cherry flavors all mingle nicely. This will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2018-2030- 92


2015 Pepper Bridge Merlot- The 2015 Pepper Bridge Merlot is an excellent bottling which was sourced from the Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge and Octave Vineyards.The Merlot has 14% Cabernet Franc and 7% Malbec blended in. This shows perfumed red fruits and toasty oak on the nose. The palate has a smooth texture and lovely mouthfeel. Lip-smacking acidity connects with red cherry cordial, black tea, and blackberry pie flavors. While this is rich this shows Bordelaise tension. Enjoy this delicious effort over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 92


2014 Pepper Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon by Pepper Bridge is a gorgeous wine. The wine was sourced from the Seven Hills, Octave, Pepper Bridge and Waliser Vineyards and was aged in 47% new French oak for 20 months prior to bottling. The Cabernet Sauvignon opens with a bright bouquet of loganberry preserves, black tea and Asian spices with smoky undertones. Firm and dense, with good weight, the wine has nice dark fruit and chocolate tones that connect with sagebrush and crushed mint herbaceousness. Downright delicious now, give this beautiful wine a one hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2018-2030- 93


2015 Pepper Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon-  Sourced from largely the Seven Hills and Octave Vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley, this great wine is a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller parts Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The Cabernet Sauvignon shows herbal tones on the nose with anise and blackberry cobbler. Soft and round on the mouth, this shows black fruits that mingle with earthy and milk chocolate undertones. Enjoy this fantastic effort over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 92

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Dr. Kit Singh crafts some outstanding wines at Lauren Ashton Cellars.

Dr. Kit Singh crafts some outstanding wines at Lauren Ashton Cellars.

Lauren Ashton Cellars

November 19, 2018

One of the great spots in Woodinville, Lauren Ashton was founded around ten years ago by highly talented winemaker and dentist Dr. Kit Singh. Dr. Singh’s impressive winemaking continues to evolve nicely with each vintage. He crafts wines that are technically very well-made, with wonderful texture and mouthfeel. While he continues to manage his dental practice, Dr. Singh studied viticulture and enology education at South Seattle Community College and also took classes at University of California at Davis enology program before spending two years interning at famed DeLille Cellars in Woodinville. He thoughtfully named this great winery after his children, Ashley Lauren and Ashton Troy as the self-described ‘control freak’ has marvelous attention to detail with each wine release.

Dr. Singh sources from a range of fruit from Columbia Valley to Red Mountain. These are some of the best vineyards in the state including Quintessence, Weinbau, Sagemoor, Ambassador and Dineen vineyards. He crafted a stunning new Rose, the 2017 Lauren Ashton Rose (WWB, 91) which is an amazing stand alone wine that has wonderful texture and tension. I loved his new release 2014 Lauren Ashton Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 92) which is showing marvelously now but will have a long life in the cellar. Learn more about the winery at http://laurenashtoncellars.com/


2017 Lauren Ashton Rose- 2017 Lauren Ashton Rose- The 2017 Lauren Ashton Rose is a fantastic wine that shows some sterling minerality. Lighter rose petal and watermelon aromatics fill the nose. The palate has a nice texture with red cherry, red raspberry and guava flavors. This crisp wine is a gorgeous effort by superstar winemaker Kit Singh. Drink 2018-2022- 91


2017 Lauren Ashton Riesling- This bright colored Riesling starts off with a bouquet of white grapefruit, Granny Smith apple and cut grass with a touch of wet stone. Tree and citrus fruit flavors fill the palate. The texture to this wine is silky smooth, as is the finish that rounds out this wine marvelously. This is just an exceptional effort by superstar winemaker Dr. Kit Singh. Drink 2018-2024- 92


2016 Lauren Ashton Roussanne- This starts off with aromatics of ripe cantalope, green papaya and a touch of honey. Bright and light on its feet, the wine shows off a wonderful astringency. Gravenstein apple, unripe mango and brioche accents complete this lovely Roussanne by the talented Kit Singh. Drink 2018-2024- 92

Lauren Ashton Cellars 2014 'Cuvee Arlette'.jpg


2014 Lauren Ashton ‘Cuvee Arlette’ Red Wine- The ‘Cuvee Arlette’ is a compelling blend of mostly Merlot with Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The wine starts off with bright aromas of black raspberry fudge, with a touch of coffee grounds and baking spices. The mouthfeel here is generous and downright voluptuous as the wine shows off dark cherry, cigar shavings, milk chocolate and Asian spice flavors that connect with nice tension. A long ager, this can be enjoyed over the next fifteen years but is nearly impossible to resist right now. Drink 2018-2030- 92

2014 Lauren Ashton ‘Cuvee Estelle’ Red Wine- The 2014 ‘Cuvee Estelle’ is a blend of largely Merlot with lesser parts Cabernet Sauvignon and the faintest hints of Petit Verdot and Malbec. Dark and brooding in the glass, this shows a highly perfumed aromatic profile of black tea, Asian spices, cigar shavings and mocha with lighter dark fruit tones currently secondary. The palate shows a marvelous texture, as Dr. Kit Singh has captured a wonderful mouthfeel here that beautifully compliments the Merlot character. Milk chocolate covered cherry, spicebox, tar and blueberry compote flavors come to mind. A complete wine, this is nearly impossible to resist right now but the ‘Cuvee Estelle’ will cellar marvelously for a decade or more. Drink 2018-2030- 93


2014 Lauren Ashton ‘Upland Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2014 ‘Upland Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon by Dr. Kit Singh is a fantastic new wine. The nose is gorgeous with rose water, creme de cassis, Turkish coffee and blackberry cobbler aromatics. The palate shows good tension and structure with boysenberry cordial, black forest cake and black olive tapenade. Seductive and gorgeous, this has a long life in the cellar. Needless to say,  this is another stunning wine made by Dr. Singh. Drink 2018-2030- 92

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Darel Allwine is the superstar winemaker at famed Red Mountain winery, Col Solare.

Darel Allwine is the superstar winemaker at famed Red Mountain winery, Col Solare.

Interview with Darel Allwine, Head Winemaker of Col Solare

November 19, 2018

One of the state’s great winemakers and an even better guy, Darel Allwine is the superstar winemaker at Col Solare. Darel had an illustrious career serving our country in the Air Force. Upon retirement, he wasn’t entirely sure what career he would choose. He began learning about winemaking while living in the Tri Cities area and got his start working under famed winemaker Ray Einburger at Columbia Crest. Darel has been with Chateau Ste. Michelle now for 23 years and has been the winemaker at Col Solare since 2013. I recently had the chance to sit down with Darel and chat about his wines as well as his incredible career. I think you will enjoy hearing more about his story. Here is my interview with Darel Allwine, Head Winemaker of Col Solare.


WWB: How did you decide to join the Air Force? Can you talk about some memorable experience while serving our country?


DA: I spent 20 years n the air force and I retired in 1995. I had two different tours in Germany and that was a great experience what I had to do over there during the Cold War. My last experience was in Okinawa, Japan fir six years and did extensive traveling as well. I was also in the Gulf War for a year. There have been some astounding experiences that I had while serving my country but getting into the wine business has happily been the highlight of my life.


WWB: At what point did you realize that you would like to pursue a career in wine?


DA: Getting interested in wine hadn’t even crossed my mind when I moved back to the Tri Cities area. I also worked as a research scientist. There was an ad for a cellar worker at Columbia Crest and I sent them my resume. I had five interviews and my last interview was with Ray Einburger the winemaker there, I started two weeks later. Once I got into it I never looked back. It is astounding what goes into a bottle of wine. The fermentation and vineyards to the aging and blending. I learned a lot from him and also did some online Course work from UC Davis. Washington State University has their program so I did both the enology and viticultural certificate. It has been a good journey. I have been with the Ste. Michelle company for 23 years now. It has been a great journey and wine is such as fascinating aspect of how it is made and there are so many varietals that happen. It is so different and each winemaker has their own nuances for the same kind of wine.


WWB: What was it like working alongside Marcus Notaro? What were some of the challenges with taking over the Col Solare program?


DA: Having worked with Marcus at Columbia Crest, he started there in 1995 as a lab person and then became the enologist for the red wine. I was there as a cellar master for the reserve program. We had worked together extensively for many years. The Col Solare project we both started working there in 2003. When we build the facility here in 2006 we would work together. He taught me a lot of good ideas especially when training my palate and understanding the vineyards and the sources that would dictate the style of wine that we wanted to make. Then he had the opportunity to move down to Napa to make wine for Stags Leap Wine Cellars in early 2013 and after that they were looking for the winemaker position and I interviewed for that and talked with them. They decided to go with me which was a very happy to start. Working with Renzo Cotenella works directly with us as well to help develop the blends and the style as far as we do things. Working with him since the beginning in 2003 has been great. Working with him has been a wonderful part. Red Mountain here can be challenging because of the heat and the vines can struggle. Fruit can be very concentrated and tannic so understanding that through the vineyards and the fermentation process can be a challenge.


WWB:: I am highly impressed with your ‘Component Collection’ bottlings. How did you decide to start that project? Can you talk about your 2015 releases?


DA: The Component Collection wines were first started in 2009. This is exclusive to the winery and is not available on the market. We did a Cabernet in 2009 as well as a Syrah. That was very limited. We didn’t do a 2010 and then did it again in 2011, we had three different varietals that year. WE have continued that from then on. That highlights the vineyard and how it is orientated and controlling the aspect of what we can do with each vine. The Cabernet we ferment each clone in different aspects, from stainless steel to barrels and we can go through and taste each barrel after it is processed and decide to make that selection for the component wines. Typically the rest of the wine in the clone goes into the main blend of Col Solare. It is a barrel selection for the Component wines and then the balance goes into the blend of Col Solare. The 2015 Col Solare Red Wine is as 100% Cabernet Sauvignon so we didn’t have any other varietals blended. The 2015 vintage was hot here and it was sometimes hard to manage the vineyard and keep it healthy when it was so hot in July and also June. Berries were small and very concentrated from the 2015 vintage.


WWB: Harvest has just concluded in 2018. What do we have to expect from this exciting new vintage? Was heat an issue for Red Mountain fruit in 2018?


DA: I think that the 2018 vintage started later in terms of bud break. We were two weeks behind normal, so we had a cooler spring here. This year actually warmed up quite a bit in May and June and moved the physiology of the vine ahead. We were actually ahead of schedule and had bloom and fruit set is typically 14 plus days but this year we had 5-6 days between bloom and fruit set. I think that highlighted how set was put in. We had nice and even clusters. There were really good looking clusters and then the rest of the season we had some 100 degree days but that wasn’t very extensive. We didn’t have many extreme temperatures where we had 14 days in 2015 of 100 degree temperatures. We had a haze of smoke over the vineyards in early August to mid-August but there weren’t any issues from what I could see. That tended to filter out the sun a bit. Late August had perfect temperature and in September with the temperatures in the mid to high 80s was really good, especially the cooling effect at night. We had good ripening and good flavor development. The tannin profile also helped a great deal, not being harsh or bitter. Overall this is going to be an exceptionally good vintage. I started bringing in estate Merlot on September 6th and Cabernet followed. We finished all of our fruit on the 10th of October. It was somewhat condensed but developed really nicely. 

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Genevieve Janssens is the superstar winemaker behind these amazing Robert Mondavi Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon bottlings.

Genevieve Janssens is the superstar winemaker behind these amazing Robert Mondavi Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon bottlings.

Robert Mondavi Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon Vertical Tasting

November 14, 2018

A trip to Napa would not be complete without a trip to the Robert Mondavi Winery Reserve Tasting Room. One of the great places to taste these beautiful aged wines, I have been fortunate enough to sample some incredible aged reserve wines there, including the absolutely epic 1996 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon as well as a 1979 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. The Reserve tasting room is unique in Napa as few places afford one to have this special opportunity. For those less familiar with this iconic winery, Robert Mondavi Winery was founded in 1966 and the To Kalon Vineyard, planted at that time, has been renowned for producing some of the finest Cabernet Sauvignon in the world. 

It is hard to describe the beauty of this winery with its gorgeous vineyards in the background. I had the great opportunity to partake in a Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Vertical tasting upon my last visit. I was very impressed with the 2011 Robert Mondavi Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet (WWB, 93) which showed remarkably well, coming from a challenging vintage in Napa Valley. A total show stopper was the 2012 Robert Mondavi Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 96) which came from a near perfect growing season and shows an insanely good range and tension.  I was amazed that the 2014 Robert Mondavi Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 97) was showing even better. It had an extra layer of density and weight, with a serious core and gobs of minerality. Needless to say, this was a sensational tasting at one of the United State’s great historic wineries. Learn more about Robert Mondavi Winery at http://www.robertmondaviwinery.com/ Here are the fantastic new release wines that I recently sampled at Robert Mondavi Winery.

Robert Mondavi Winery 'Reserve' Vertical Tasting.jpg


2011 Robert Mondavi ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2011 ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon by Robert Mondai Winery begins with intense aromas of mocha, sandalwood, milk chocolate, and green bell pepper showing a slightly herbal edge. The weight of this wine is simply amazing considering the obvious heat issues during the vintage. Creme de cassis, mocha, green bell pepper and blueberry compote flavors all nicely combine in the glass. This is drinking marvelously right now and can cellar for another decade or more. Drink 2018-2030- 93


2012 Robert Mondavi ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2012 ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows intense and hedonistic aromas of graphite, rose petals, creme de cassis, black tea and Asian spice. The heady aromas bring you back to the glass for more decadence. The palate shows remarkable balance and poise with ripe blackberry pie, mocha, anise and sandalwood flavors that marvelously come together. The combination of fruit weight and tension is simply marvelous here. This decadent wine will cellar incredibly well for the next two plus decades. While the cellaring potential is obviously there, why wait? Drink 2018-2040- 96


2013 Robert Mondavi ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2013 Robert Mondavi Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning example of the varietal. Somewhat tightly wound aromatically right now, there is a very dark and dense core of fruits on the nose followed by woody accents and milk chocolate coming through. The palate shows wonderful weight and intensity with medium tannins lining the mouth. There are rich dark fruit flavors that mingle with sage and dark chocolate shavings. While this can be enjoyed following a long decant, this really needs another year or two of bottle age before enjoying. Drink 2019-2040- 95


2014 Robert Mondavi ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2014 ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon by Robert Mondavi Winery is a stunning wine that has a ton of cellaring potential. The wine shows incredible range of aromatics on the nose from ripe plum to spice cake to blackberry cobbler and mocha. The palate dazzles with the incredible combustion of weight, minerality and texture as the wine reveals a silky mouthfeel. The feeling of balance is amazing here as this glides through the mid-palate. Mildly tannic, this is surprisingly approachable right now. Enjoy this stunning wine one the next two plus decades. Drink 2018-2040- 97

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