• Home
  • Blog
  • About
  • Resources
Menu

Owen Bargreen

  • Home
  • Blog
  • About
  • Resources
Cathy Corison produces some legendary wines at her namesake winery in Napa.

Cathy Corison produces some legendary wines at her namesake winery in Napa.

Corison

April 30, 2019

One of the great Napa boutique wineries, Corison is the brainchild of Cathy Corison, first founded in 1987. At that time Cathy Corison started purchasing Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from prime vineyards between Rutherford and St. Helena. Her first wines were made at other spaces that she rented out. She purchased the Kronos Vineyard in 1995 which was a historic property that had been a farm for over a century and she finally built her estate vineyard as well as the spot for her winery. She later purchased the Sunbasket Vineyard in 2015 which is located near the winer location.

I have long been enchanted by these wines as Cathy is one of the legendary faces of Napa. She is a master’s degree graduate of the Enology program at UC Davis and has previously served as Chappellet winemaker prior to starting her own winery. Corison is known for her classic style of creating a Bordelaise, more restrained style to Napa wines. If you have never had the opportunity to try these beautiful wines, you will find them to be highly elegant and a wonderful contrast to wines that simply focus on power or concentration. Her wines are highly ageworthy as the winery even has a program that releases their older wines and I have found these wines to age exceptionally well. Her new release Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2015 Corison ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) shows the classic Cathy Corison elegance while maintaining a silky mouthfeel and serious range. This is one for the cellar. Learn more about these beautiful and elegant Napa wines at https://corison.com/ Here is my review of her new 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Corison Logo.jpg


2015 Corison ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2015 ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon by Corison is a spectacular effort in this warm vintage. Sourced from the Saint Helena AVA, the nose shows wonderful range from coffee grounds to creme de cassis to black olive and crushed mint. Lighter smoky tones round out the compelling aromatics. Once in the mouth, the wine has a wonderful sense of place. The silky mouthfeel provides spectacular balance here. Cassis, anise, black tea, and lighter blueberry compote tones with cigar ash flavors complete this spectacular wine. While it is showing marvelously right now, this will continue to evolve gracefully for decades. Drink 2020-2040- 95

Comment
Brent Stone is the talented winemaker behind all King Estate wines.

Brent Stone is the talented winemaker behind all King Estate wines.

King Estate

April 30, 2019

One of the great spots for Pinot Gris in the Willamette Valley, King Estate is one of the few wineries in North America (potentially the only one) where more vines of Pinot Gris are grown than any other varietal. There is a reason for this — year after year King Estate delivers two of the best Pinot Gris bottling in the state, with their entry level wine and their top of the line ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris. I have had every ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris back to 2011 and I have been pretty overwhelmed with the quality in this bottling which shows amazing texture and range. These also age marvelously as I did a retrospective on these wines a few years back and found them to be standout wines in even hot vintages.

If you have never visited this beautiful winery you are in for a treat, as King Estate boasts one of the most scenic views in the state from their patio. Brent Stone has been with King Estate since 2011 and has become a sensational winemaker, crafting beautiful Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir wines. He has crafted an outstanding new wine with his 2017 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris (WWB, 92) which is up there with the best Pinot Gris in the state. This wine has a wonderful seamless quality that impresses with the great sense of minerality. This is one to pick up by the case. Learn more about this famed Oregon estate at https://www.kingestate.com


2018 King Estate Rose- The 2018 King Estate Rose, made from Pinot Noir grapes, starts off with a bouquet of rose water with red cherry candy and guava that fill the nose. The palate is lithe with beautiful astringency. Red currant, red cherry and guava with a touch of citrus rind connect with the beautiful sense of minerality on the palate. Enjoy this outstanding new Rose with sushi. Drink 2019-2023- 90

King Estate 2017 Domaine Pinot Gris.jpg


2017 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris- The ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris is another outstanding wine made by the talented Brent Stone. On the nose this takes on bright pear and starfruit aromatics that mingle with nutmeg and wet stone undertones. The palate is lithe and mineral-driven with bright pear infused brioche, nutmeg and a creamy finish. The texture here is marvelous and completes this beautiful new wine by King Estate. Drink 2019-2025- 92

Comment
Great photo here of Tendril’s talented owner and winemaker, Tony Rynders.

Great photo here of Tendril’s talented owner and winemaker, Tony Rynders.

Tendril

April 25, 2019

Friends, hope you all are having a great week. As we near another exciting Oregon Wine Month we bring you one of the top producers of Oregon Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Tendril is the brainchild of famed winemaker, Tony Rynders, who had a host of esteemed stops along his career before settling in Oregon. He has now made Oregon Pinot Noir for more than twenty years. A graduate of the esteemed master’s degree in Enology and Viticulture from UC Davis, Rynders served as former head winemaker for Domaine Serene Winery/Rockblock Cellars before starting Tendril. During his ten years as head head winemaker for Domaine Serene as head winemaker, Rynders obtained more 90+ point scores from the Wine Spectator magazine than any other winemaker during this period of time.

Tony is a super knowledgable, down to earth guy that brings his talents to a host of other wineries including Open Claim and Panther Creek. His knowledge for making wines in the Willamette Valley rings true in his new release wines which were absolutely outstanding across the board. These are rich and beautifully layered Pinot Noir releases. The stunning 2015 Tendril ‘Extrovert’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) has an incredible mouthfeel and vibrant acidity, as this delicious wine is showing really good range right now. Even better is the 2015 Tendril ‘Tightrope’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 94) which has amazing depth and richness from this warm vintage in the Willamette Valley. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.tendrilwines.com Here are the seriously good new wines by Tony Rynders and Tendril.


2015 Tendril ‘Extrovert’ Pinot Noir- The 2015 ‘Extrovert’ Pinot Noir is largely comprised of fruit sourced from the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. The nose shows pretty red fruit aromatics with exotic spices and earthy undertones that all connect in the glass. The palate is plush, revealing a silky mouthfeel and seamless texture. Bing cherry, Mandarin orange zest, peat moss and shades of white truffle all combine on the palate. Delicious now, this will cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 93


2015 Tendril ‘C Note’ Pinot Noir- This exciting new Pinot Noir underwent 100% whole cluster fermentation and was aged in 100% new French oak prior to bottling. The wine opens with a beautiful bouquet of red and dark fruits with blood orange, a dusting of white pepper and earthy accents that round out the great range of aromatics. A bright salinity cuts through the red fruits on the palate, as the silky mouthfeel entices here. Round and generous, while you can enjoy this fantastic bottling in its youth it will cellar well over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2019-2033- 93


2015 Tendril ‘Saffron Fields Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Saffron Fields Vineyard’ is a lower elevation site planted to Pinot Noir vines set on marine sedimentary soils. Not surprising is the whiff of salted meats on the nose that combine with cran-pomegranate, orange rind and wild blackberry that all combine on the nose. The palate is silky smooth. Black fruits, peat moss and a touch of milk chocolate all combine on the palate. While delicious in its youth, this will cellar well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 93

Tendril 2015 Tightrope Pinot Noir.jpg


2015 Tendril ‘Tightrope’ Pinot Noir- The 2015 Tendril ‘Tightrope’ Pinot Noir is a spectacular effort by the talented Tony Rynders. This limited production bottling which was aged for eighteen months in 50% new French oak prior to bottling. On the nose this takes on beautiful aromatic range from red and dark fruits to hints of cloves and black truffle shavings. The mouthfeel is downright seductive as layers of dark and red berries connect with earthy undertones and the toasty oak. While this has excellent mid-palate weight, there is also a seamless quality to the wine. The extremely long finish completes this gorgeous new wine. Delightful in its youth, this will continue to cellar well for the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink. 2019-2035- 94

Comment
Great photo of iconic Oregon winemaker, Rollin Soles.

Great photo of iconic Oregon winemaker, Rollin Soles.

Interview with Rollin Soles, Owner and Head Winemaker of ROCO Wines

April 24, 2019

One of the iconic names in Oregon wine, Rollin Soles is one of North America’s most heralded winemakers, particularly for his revolutionary sparkling wines. I have long enjoyed his Argyle wines from my personal collection as he helped build Argyle into one of the famed world wineries for sparkling wines. Rollin is originally from Texas and he traveled the world to find the right winemaking location where he would make some of the best sparkling wines in North America. Rollin has now been making sparkling wines for over 30 years and his new release sparkling wines by ROCO were simply fabulous. Rollin talks about those wines as well as his history in the wine industry and a few champagne inspirations. I think you will really enjoy hearing his story in wine. Here is my interview with Rollin Soles, head winemaker and owner of ROCO Wines. 


WWB: What were your first initial inspirations in wine? How did you decide to found Argyle in 1987?


RS: My Texas A&M biochemistry prof set me up with a cousin’s Pinot Noir vineyard in Canton Thurgau, Switzerland. Hans Uli Kesselring was farming sustainably back in the mid-70’s.   After some time I decided to help start Argyle as a result of a visit to Willamette Valley in 1979. I fell in love with this region and Argyle was also the first foreign investment (Australia) into Oregon. 


WWB: How did you decide to create a sparkling wine program at Argyle? Did you really that you would nearly singlehandedly help create one of the iconic spiraling wine producers in North America?


RS: With viticulture as it was, sparkling wines represented best opportunity to produce high quality wines vintage after vintage. The Willamette Valley really is the new world’s best region for high quality sparkling (traditional method) wines. We can’t consistently ripen warmer climate varieties like Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc. At our above 45 degree latitude, we have opportunity to grow fruit that has ripe fruit flavors without losing high natural acidity. I actually thought that there would be well known sparkling wine producers here by now. I have been enjoying the new interest in producing sparkling wines by our existing producers! I’ve been now making Oregon sparkling wines for over 30 years and continue to discover layers of complexity and definitions of balance. Making sparkling wines has made me a better winemaker, and certainly has made me a more fun one. 


WWB: Can you talk about the challenges with starting ROCO? Are you happy with how your winery has developed?

RS: I believe ROCO is has steadily been gaining brand recognition across the United States.  Production has progressed in opposite fashion to Argyle, by introducing red wine first, Chardonnay 5 years later, and now introducing my sparkling wines. Working with Corby has inspired me to a higher level of creativity. 


WWB: One of the great wines that I have sampled out of Oregon in the past year, your 2016 ROCO ‘RMS Rose’ Sparkling Wine is a simply magical new release wine. Can you talk about this absolutely irresistible new bottling? 


RS: It was interesting that it turned out the way it did as the growing season was one of the warmer ones. The “window” for picking sparkling wine grapes at peak flavor is extremely narrow. It becomes even narrower for a vintage like 2016. I think we were lucky to nail the harvest. Then, the craft of working out the best dosage is a lifelong pursuit of mine. With this 2016, I think we found a lovely solution. I’m still gobsmacked when I try this wine in a finished state, considering the many hurdles that we had to jump through to create this.


WWB: What are some of your favorite champagnes of the world that you have sampled? How do you see Oregon sparkling wines being different than Champagne wines?


RS: Yikes! Naming names……. I’ve been helped along and inspired by large to small producers in Champagne. Everyone has been so very generous with their time, and they’ve not been afraid to open a lot of beautiful wines that should have been enjoyed by a roomful of buyers! During my early days: Bollinger by far and continuing, Billecart Salmon, Roederer, and Dom Perignon Today:  Vilmart, Pierre Peters, Geoffroy, Goutourbe, Jean Milan, Pehu Simonet and so many more.

It seems that sparkling wines made at higher latitudes have a common theme of ripe fruit base wines with high natural acidity. The possess lovely apples, pears, plums, citrus while showing spice and flowers after second ferment.  We look like cousins to our French friends in many cases. It becomes challenging to point out the true differences when the Willamette Valley because it is barely a generation into its sparkling history. There are so many more places to explore in the Willamette Valley, and so many more cuvees to make before we can truly define the Willamette Valley for sparkling wines.  Time will tell. I hope we see our “cousins” come over here and discover the Willamette together like we seem to be doing with Pinot noir and Chardonnay!

Like with Willamette Pinot Noir, the wine buyer will begin to seek out our better Methode Champenoise wines, and also know that they are expensive to make here, and worth the price. The demographic for American wine drinkers has NEVER been broader.  Additionally, Americans are catching up with the Europeans, British, Australians, etc. for sparkling wine appreciation. This will certainly drive folks to the Willamette Valley for their fizz!

Comment
Ken and Grace Evenstad celebrate 30 years of their iconic Oregon winery, Domaine Serene.

Ken and Grace Evenstad celebrate 30 years of their iconic Oregon winery, Domaine Serene.

Domaine Serene

April 23, 2019

As we edge towards another celebration of Oregon Wine Month we bring you the latest wines from one of the great wineries in North America, Domaine Serene. Initially founded thirty years ago in 1989 by Grace and Ken Evenstad, Domaine Serene is perched atop the Dundee Hills, with absolutely stunning views of the valley. Domaine Serene is an absolute must visit for any Oregon wine lover. I fondly recall my first visit to Domaine Serene in 2002 and was absolutely blown away not only with the sweeping views of the Willamette Valley but the stunning wines. 

Winemaker Michael Fay has a great pedigree, having previously served as head winemaker at Goldeneye. He crafted some absolutely stunning Sonoma Pinot Noir down there and has brought his talents to Domaine Serene. 

Michael Fay’s new Domaine Serene releases are incredible, coming from another warm vintage, the 2016 vintage. One of the best wines that they make, year after year, the new 2016 ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) does not disappoint. Celebrating the 30th anniversary of this wine, the ‘Evenstad Reserve’ has beautiful layers of red and dark fruits with an incredible, silky texture. This is a true heavyhitter of a wine. I was blown away wit the 2016 Domaine Serene ‘Cote Sud’ Chardonnay (WWB, 94) which has an incredible mouthfeel and a seamless quality with intense citrus rind flavors and earthy character. Needless to say, Domaine Serene is on top of their game. Learn more about this famed Oregon estate at http://domaineserene.com/ Here are the beautiful new release wines by Domaine Serene.


2016 Domaine Serene ‘Etoile Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This fantastic new Chardonnay bottling is sourced from the ‘Etoile Vineyard’ in the Dundee Hills and was aged for fourteen months in 43% new French oak prior to bottling. Bright on the nose, the wine delivers wild mushroom, ripe pear and cardamon with damp earth and flinty undertones. The palate is lithe, showing a wonderful sense of tension in this Chardonnay. Bright citrus oil, and Pink Lady apple flavors mingle with minerals and peat moss accents. A delight to savor in its youth, this will have at least a decade left in the cellar. Drink 2019-2033- 94


2016 Domaine Serene ‘Cote Sud’ Chardonnay- The 2016 ‘Cote Sud’ Chardonnay was sourced from the south facing slope of the Evenstad Vineyard which ranges from 510 to 790 feet in elevation. The wine was aged for fifteen months in 40% new French oak prior to bottling. This gorgeous Chardonnay has beautiful orchard fruits woven into minerals and vanilla cream aromatics that all mingle in the glass. The palate has bright melon, citrus rind and wet stone with earthy undertones that all excite. The silky texture really entices here. Enjoy this brilliant new wine over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2019-2033- 94


2016 Domaine Serene ‘Yamhill Cuvee’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 ‘Yamhill Cuvee’ Pinot Noir is annoteer fantastic bottling from this famed Oregon winery. Aged for fourteen months in 44% new French oak, the nose evokes bright red fruits with toasty oak and light peat moss accents that connect aromatically. The palate has a good sense of poise, weight and astringency with dark and red fruit flavors with orange rind and forest floor undertones. This is about as good as you can find for an entry level Oregon Pinot Noir. Enjoy this expressive effort over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 92

Domaine Serene 2016 Evenstad Pinot Noir.jpeg


2016 Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Pinot Noir- This is the 30th anniversary of this iconic Pinot Noir bottling. This particular edition was aged for sixteen months in 65% new French oak prior to bottling. The nose here is simply sensational ranging from cardamon accents to peat moss and black truffle shavings to bright red fruits and citrus zest that all amalgamate marvelously. The texture is beautiful as this silky wine effortlessly dances across the mid-palate. The seamlessness of this wine really entices. Dense dark and red fruits pack this incredible new release. I realize that I have written this before but this 2016 ‘Evenstad’ is up there with the best of its kind ever produced. If enjoying in its youth I beseech you to afford at least a two hour decant prior to enjoying this seductive, hedonistic Oregon Pinot Noir. Drink 2020-2040- 95


2016 Domaine Serene ‘Abbey Oaks Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Abbey Oaks Vineyard’ is set on marine sedimentary soils, as vines have southern exposure. This Yamhill-Carlton AVA wine was aged for seventeen months in 55% new French oak prior to bottling. On the nose this brings out ripe red and dark fruits that mingle with the earthy undertones in the glass. The palate shows good weight and astringency with an exceedingly long, mineral and dark fruit driven finish. Exceedingly good now, this will continue to cellar well over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 93


2016 Domaine Serene ‘Cote Sud Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 Domaine Serene ‘Cote Sud Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is sourced from this southern facing part of the Evenstand estate as this wine was aged for fifteen months in 56% new French oak prior to bottling. The resultant wine is a downright stunner, unveiling bright red fruits that dance with dark raspberry cordial, cigar ash and suggestions of black tea that all combine on this expressive nose. The palate is plush and layered, creating a seamless experience once in the mouth. Layers of red and dark fruits with wonderful sage and peat moss undertones complete this marvelous new bottling. While delicious and seductive in its youth, this really will benefit from two or three more years of age. Drink 2020-2035- 94


2016 Domaine Serene ‘Triple S’ Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- New to the Domaine Serene lineup of Pinot Noirs, the ‘Triple S Vineyard’ is farmed by Sue and Steve Schneider and is a four acre parcel located in the Dundee Hills. This wine begins with aromas of teaberry with bay leaf, pomegranate seed and wild blackberry. The palate shows good weight and astringency with copious dark fruits that mingle with Asian spices and wonderful peat moss earthy tones. Highly complex and novel, and showing a great combination of weight and tension, this stellar bottling will have a very long life in the cellar. Drink 2020-2035- 94


2016 Domaine Serene ‘Two Barns’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 ‘Two Barns’ is another gorgeous wine by the superstar winemaking team of Domaine Serene. On the nose there is really good range from deep dark fruits to forest floor and shades of dark truffle that all connect in the glass. The palate shows really good weight with a sumptuous mouthfeel. Black tea, blackberry cobbler and earthy tones with light citrus rind accents all collide on the palate. A long-ager, this beautiful wine will cellar well over the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2020-2040- 94

Comment
Superstar winemaker, Russell Bevan, crafts some scintillating new wines for PerUs.

Superstar winemaker, Russell Bevan, crafts some scintillating new wines for PerUs.

PerUs

April 22, 2019

When Russell Bevan is at the winemaking helm, good things happen. PerUs is an ultra-premium producer of red wines out of Napa, sourcing from some great vineyards including Sugarloaf Mountain and Edcora Vineyard (high elevation site). PerUs was founded by Anmol Bhandari who was born and raised in New Delhi, immigrated to the United States and built a successful career in finance – initially at Goldman Sachs and later co-founding Cians Analytics based in New York – a company that provides research and analytical support to international financial institutions. Anmol was introduced to Dustin Wilson, Master Sommelier, and they both would travel to the Napa Valley to research both vineyards and winemakers. Dustin introduced Ammol to Russell Bevan, one of the world’s great winemakers. PerUs only made 30 cases in their first vintage, 2013.

I recently had the chance to try the new PerUS wines and was completely blown away with the quality of wines in the glass. The 2015 PerUs ‘Alessio’ Red Wine (WWB, 97) is a spellbinding, silky blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. My colleague, Dr. Jae Hong, and I were completely mesmerized by this incredible new wine. Learn more about this famed boutique winery at https://www.peruswine.com/pages/home.php Here are the stunning new releases by PerUs.

PerUs 2019 Releases.jpg


2015 PerUs ‘Alessio’ Red Wine- The 2015 ‘Alessio’ is a compelling blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Cabernet Franc made by superstar winemaker Russell Bevan. Needing a one hour decant to fully arouse, the wine dances in the glass with decadent Earl Grey tea, roasted dates, Turkish coffee and creme de cassis aromatics that offer amazing depth. This gorgeous red blend has a seamless quality that glides through the mid-palate and coats the mouth. Velvety tannins line copious dark fruit and chocolate flavors, with herbal undertones. Silky smooth and rather intoxicating in its youth, this delightful wine will cellar well over the next two decades. Drink 2019-2040- 97


2016 PerUs ‘Janeen’ Red Wine- The ‘Janeen’ is a seductive amalgamation of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from Atlas Peak with 10% Cabernet Franc from Sugar Loaf Mountain. The wine opens with an intense bouquet of tar, mocha, anise and creme de cassis aromatics that all combine marvelously in the glass. The mouthfeel is silky smooth as this wine shows remarkable precision and balance, as well as mid-palate weight. The texture here is downright ethereal. Dense blackberry cobbler, creosote, sweet pipe tobacco and red cherry cordial flavors all connect on the palate. A long-ager, while the wine is showing brilliantly now following a one hour decant, it can be enjoyed over the next two decades. Drink 2019-2040- 96

Comment
Great photo here of the talented Josh Bergström

Great photo here of the talented Josh Bergström

Bergström Wines

April 22, 2019

BerOne of the premier boutique wineries in Oregon, Bergström Wines was founded by John and Karen Bergström as they planted their Bergström Vineyard on a 13-acre, south-facing slope overlooking the Willamette Valley. In 1999,  One of their sons Josh Bergström, moved back to reign after completing a postgraduate program in Viticulture and Enology in Burgundy in 1999. That fall Bergström Wines harvested their first vintage of Pinot Noir from purchased fruit and the rest has been history. Josh serves as general manager, winemaker and vineyard manager at Bergström Wines, and has been rather quietly producing some of the top wines in Oregon.

I actually spoke to Josh last summer about the 2017 vintage and he mentioned that he was highly optimistic about the degree of bright acidity and weight in his wines. HIs new wines clearly follow that theme of having great elegance and Burgundian subtlety yet possess good weight and concentration. 

I was hugely impressed with the new set of releases from Bergström as these are some of the best I have ever tasted from this storied estate. One of the great Chardonnays made in the Willamette Valley, the 2017 Bergström ‘Sigrid’ Chardonnay (WWB, 94) has lovely layers of fruits and non-fruits with a silky texture and incredible acidity. This is a must buy for Oregon Chardonnay lovers. One of the top wines I have sampled in the past year from Oregon, the 2017 Bergström ‘Bergström Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) is simply dazzling in the glass with its incredible mouthfeel and its wonderful stony terroir. Learn more about these sensational wines at https://www.bergstromwines.com Here are the beautiful new wine releases by Bergström.


2017 Bergström ‘Sigrid’ Chardonnay- Shining brightly in the glass, the 2017 ‘Sigrid’ Chardonnay is another sensational wine made from the talented hands of Josh Bergström. The nose is seriously good, ranging from tangerine blossom to wet stone to wild mushroom and forest floor accents that all connect marvelously in the glass. The textural elements are simply marvelous as the mouthfeel entices. Loads of richness and mouth-watering acidity line the palate with bright peach, Pink Lady apple and vanilla cream flavors. A sensational effort, this Chardonnay will cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 94

Bergstrom 2017 Silice Pinot Noir.jpg


2017 Bergström ‘Silice’ Pinot Noir- An outstanding showing, the 2017 ‘Silice’ Pinot Noir opens with an inviting nose of copious red and dark fruits that mingle with peat moss, and wild mushroom tones on the expressive nose. The palate reveals a marvelous texture and beautifully coats the mid-palate. Bright red fruits dance with citrus rind and volcanic earth undertones on the palate. While exceedingly delicious in its youth, this stunning new bottling will have decades ahead of it. Drink 2019-2035- 94


2017 Bergström ‘Le Pre Du Col Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Le Pre Du Col Vineyard’ is located in the Ribbon Ridge AVA and is a 16-acre parcel set on marine sedimentary soils. There is a surprising whiff of volcanic earth on the nose alongside a brilliant degree of saline soaked red fruits and citrus fruits on the nose. Round and generous on the mouth, this unveils pomegranate seed, cran-cherry, blood orange zest and earthy undertones. Delightful now, this will evolve well for decades. Drink 2019-2033- 93


2017 Bergström ‘Winery Block’ Pinot Noir- This brilliant new Pinot Noir by superstar winemaker Josh Bergstrom starts off with a bouquet of volcanic earth, cigar ash, peat moss and dark fruits that line this expressive nose. Lithe and inviting, the freshness to this wine is really exquisite, as is the wonderful salinity that evokes mouth-watering acidity. Bright citrus fruits and red fruits dance with minerals on the palate. While this is seriously good in its youth it will continue to evolve well for the next two decades. Drink 2019-2035- 94


2017 Bergström ‘Bergstrom Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Bergström Vineyard’ was first planted in 1999 and is set on a broken basalt hillside. On the nose this evokes a strong volcanic earth influence alongside red and dark fruits with lemon zest undertones. Sinfully good, the wine has a silky texture that effortlessly glides through the mid-palate. Black cherry cordial, wild blackberry preserves, peat moss and forest floor flavors all come together beautifully. While marvelous in the glass now, try to resist this stunning new wine for at least another year. If enjoying in its youth, be sure to give this at least a one hour decant. Drink 2020-2040- 95

Comment
It was a marvelous visit to one of the great second growth estates in Bordeaux, Chateau Léoville-Barton.

It was a marvelous visit to one of the great second growth estates in Bordeaux, Chateau Léoville-Barton.

Chateau Léoville-Barton

April 19, 2019

I fondly recall my first bottle of Chateau Léoville-Barton when I was in college. At this stage, I knew very little about Bordeaux wines but I can fondly remember the harmony of this 1990 bottling. Sitting with one of my mentors in wine, he talked about how well these wines age, even in challenging vintages. I have purchased many wines from this storied estate for that exact reason. A few weeks back I had the chance to visit this famed chateau and take in a lesson in history of this winery. Founded by Thomas Barton in 1722, wine produced from this chateau was classified as one of fifteen Deuxièmes Crus (Second Growths) in the original 1855 Bordeaux classification. It is truly one of my favorite of those fifteen ‘super seconds.’ Léoville-Barton has a sister winery, Langoa-Barton, as these two St. Julien properties have the longest continuous duration of ownership by the same family of any of the other current proprietors in Bordeaux. The estate of Léoville-Barton spans 116 acres (47 ha) of vineyard is located in the central part of the appellation along the Gironde river. The soil composition is largely gravel with a subsoil of clay. The plantings are 72% Cabernet Sauvignon with 20% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, with the vines averaging 30 years of age.

While I did not try the new release from this estate, I was absolutely blown away with the 2010 Chateau Léoville-Barton (WWB, 95) which has evolved beautifully since I first tried the wine. This wine has a a wonderful richness and intensity to it, as it really needs another year or two in the bottle to fully evolve. A few weeks ago I had the opportunity to try the 1982 Chateau Léoville-Barton (WWB, 95) which is a truly amazing showing. 1982 was one of the great vintages for Bordeauxs and this wine showed absolutely marvelously — and has a long life left!  Learn more about this famed second growth property at https://www.leoville-barton.com/en/ Here are my notes for the wines I have recently sampled from Chateau Léoville-Barton.

Chateau Leoville-Barton 1982 bottle.jpg


1982 Chateau Léoville-Barton- The 1982 Chateau Léoville-Barton red wine is a stunning bottling from this famed vintage in Bordeaux. Generously shared by some friends, and needing very little time in the decanter to evolve, the 1982 Léoville-Barton opens with a captivating nose of sour red cherry, cigar box with shades of white truffle and a striking herbaceousness. There is a wonderful, seamless quality to this wine that evokes a harmonious balance on the mid-palate. A bright saline streak dashes through this incredible wine. Showing a wonderfully soft mouthfeel, the wine slowly unveils layers of sour red fruits, exotic spices, red bell pepper, anise and hints of wild blackberry that all marvelously combine with the toasty oak. While absolutely delightful now, this stunning wine will has more than a decade of life left. Drink 2019-2035- 95


2004 Chateau Léoville-Barton- The 2004 Chateau Léoville-Barton is a resounding success in this challenging cool vintage in Bordeaux. Needing roughy a one hour decant to open, the wine slowly yields aromas of dark currant with leather, coffee grounds and damp earth. The palate shows good freshness with medium-bodied dark fruit and red fruit flavors that combine with the strong earthy components. Showing good verve and richness considering its age, as well as the challenges that presented themselves in this vintage, I think the wine is right at its peak and will provide drinking enjoyment over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 92


2010 Chateau Léoville-Barton- The 2010 Léoville-Barton is a magical effort that is drinking exceedingly well in its youth. On the nose this takes on a highly perfumed display of red currant with dusty earth and blackberry cobbler, with underlying suggestions of espresso bean. The palate is vibrant and full of energy. Showing a good level of minerality the wine is displaying some serious mid-palate weight with black fruits dominating the flavor profile. The long, dark fruit-driven finish combines marvelously with the minerals to create a intriguingly refreshing effect. Be sure to give this at least a two hour decant if enjoying it now. This beautiful wine will cellar well for the next two to three decades. Drink 2020-2040- 95

Comment
It was an absolutely fabulous visit to one of the great historic wineries of the world, Chateau Haut-Brion.

It was an absolutely fabulous visit to one of the great historic wineries of the world, Chateau Haut-Brion.

Chateau Haut-Brion

April 18, 2019

One of the highlights of my visit to Bordeaux, Chateau Haut-Brion is one of the world’s great historic wineries of France, and is one of five to achieve the Premier Grand Cru Classé  (First Growth). Located in Pessac, right outside the town of Bordeaux, the winery itself is right outside the city, which is rather intriguing as this is the only first growth from the Pessac-Leognan appellation.

There is historical records of the cultivation of this property dating back to 1423. The property was bought by Jean de Ségur in 1509, and in 1525 was owned by Admiral Philippe de Chabot. The estate Château Haut-Brion dates back to April 1525 when Jean de Pontac married Jeanne de Bellon, and in 1533 the Admiral bought the title to the domain of Haut-Brion, while construction actual chateau commenced in 1549. Remarkably there are first records of Chateau Haut-Brion wine found in the wine cellar ledger of the English King Charles II in 1660. In 1787, former United States President, Thomas Jefferson, visited Chateau Haut-Brion and his notes ranked Chateau Haut-Brion among the four estates of first quality in Bordeaux. It is well-known that Jefferson had a great deal of Chateau Haut-Brion in his personal collection.

Fast forward to the twentieth-century, following a series of unsuccessful owners during difficult times, the American banker Clarence Dillon purchased Chteau Haut-Brion in 1935 for roughly 2 million Francs. Dillon quickly turned around the quality of the wines, investing heavily into the property. Chateau Haut-Brion devotes nearly 120 acres to the production of their red wines, while a mere 7.1 acres are planted to white varietals (Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon).

Walking along the vineyards, you are just amazed with how close to town everything is. There are even condos that have been recently built that overlook the vineyards. Hopefully one is for sale! The iconic chateau lies in the center of the property and it literally gave me the chills thinking about the history of all that have graced this famed property. 

At the end of my tour I was able to try an older vintage of Chateau Haut-Brion, coming from a less than heralded vintage. The 2011 Chateau Haut-Brion Bordeaux (WWB, 94) is a seriously good wine from this vintage — one of the top 2011 wines I have sampled. The wine is quite young and tannic but has tremendous verve and a dazzling minerality. I was impressed also with the wonderful mouthfeel. Learn more about this famed chateau at https://www.haut-brion.com Here is my review of the 2011 Chateau Haut-Brion. 

Chateau Haut-Brion 2011 bottle.jpg


2011 Chateau Haut-Brion Bordeaux- The 2011 Chateau Haut-Brion is one of the best wines made from this challenging vintage in Bordeaux. Showing off its dark hue, on the nose this Haut-Brion opens with wonderful damp earth aromas with wild mushroom and peat moss that combine with the dark fruits and milk chocolate undertones. The palate shows incredible freshness and tension with red bell pepper, red cherry, anise and cassis accents. I admire the strong salinity that weaves through the mid-palate. This finishes strong with bright minerals that connect with the dark fruits. While not exceedingly rich, this is a wonderful wine from what was a challenging vintage in Bordeaux. This is classic Bordeaux with great elegance and finesse. Drink 2020-2040- 94

Comment
Here I am pictured at one of the famed wineries of the world, Chateau Margaux.

Here I am pictured at one of the famed wineries of the world, Chateau Margaux.

Chateau Margaux

April 17, 2019

Friends, a few weeks back I had the wonderful opportunity to visit one of the storied wineries of the world, located on the left bank of Bordeaux, Chateau Margaux. Dating all the way back to the 12th century, Margaux was called “La Mothe de Margaux” (the Margaux mound)  and at the time there were no vines planted at the property. During the 12th century this region was taken over by England and at the time the Bordeaux “claret” was adopted as a table wine by Richard the Lion Heart, King of England in the XII century.

Pierre de Lestonnac then took over the land from 1572 to 1582, and took over the vineyard and anticipated the general evolution of the Médoc that had started to abandon cereal growing in favor of planting vines for making ‘claret.’ Towards the beginning of the 18th century, Château Margaux had amassed 265 hectares which was property that would never be divided again. Roughly one third of the estate had vines planted.

Famed United States president, Thomas Jefferson, served as United States Ambassador to France, and fell in love with the wines of Château Margaux as records having him placing an order for Margaux 1784 on which he wrote “There couldn’t be a better Bordeaux bottle.” Then in 1855 Empereur Napoléon III created the ‘Second Universal Exhibition.’ It divided about sixty Médoc growths, and a property in the Graves, into five quality levels. Four growths were classified “Premier Grand Cru Classé”; only Margaux was marked twenty out of twenty. Fast forward to the twentieth century, Chateau Margaux has gained nearly unparalleled success with their wines from wine critics and wine collectors alike.

Visiting the property I cherished the few minutes I had to take in the incredible history of the property. My tasting was located in a new, more modern wing of the chateau. Somewhat spartan, this simple room was thoughtfully designed to only focus on the wines. Needless to say I was absolutely blown away with the new releases. One of the best Bordeaux Blanc wines I have tasted in many years, the 2016 Chateau Margaux ‘Pavilion’ Blanc (WWB, 97) is an incredible white wine that not only has a seamless texture but an incredible richness and salinity. This is a complete, head-turning white wine that will enjoy many decades in the cellar, only picking up tertiary notes. I found the 2016 Chateau Margaux Red Wine (WWB, 100) to be nothing short of perfection in the bottle. This was the best bottling that I sampled during my visit to Bordeaux. Simply put, this wine has it all —from tension to viscosity — to earthy character and impeccable blending. Learn more about this famed chateau at https://www.chateau-margaux.com Here are the brilliant new release wines by Chateau Margaux. 


2016 Chateau Margaux Pavilion Blanc- You are absolutely blown away initially with this beautiful nose that ranges from honeysuckle to apricot to ripe pear and green apple with suggestions of nutmeg.  The texture to this wine is simply stunning as the wine delivers gobs of mouth-watering acidity. Gravenstein apple, ripe lychee and pineapple flavors connect with an incredible salinity. This is Bordeaux blanc at its best. Drink 2022-2045- 97


2016 Chateau Margaux Pavilion Rouge- This second wine has been made since the late 1970s but Chateau Margaux has made a second wine for many years prior to that. This wine takes on a classic Bordelaise nose with red bell pepper, anise, creme de cassis, and green peppercorn with blackberry cordial. The palate takes on wonderful freshness with good intensity and wonderful freshness. Coffee grounds, green bell pepper, anise and creme de cassis flavors all collide on the palate. The texture is seriously good considering this is a second wine. This stunning wine is nowhere near ready right now and will have an exceedingly long life in the cellar. The Bordelaise character really shines here. Drink 2025-2045- 95

Chateau Margaux 2016 Red Wine.jpg


2016 Chateau Margaux Red Wine- The 2016 Chateau Margaux is pure perfection in the bottle. Silky, elegant and round, this wine has it all. The assemblage was quite rigorous in this vintage (94% Cabernet Sauvignon with small parts Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot). This wine only represented 26 percent of their harvest. Quite astounding amounts of wine was either blended into their third wine or was sold in bulk, On the nose this takes on a huge range of aromatics from blueberry compote, to tar, to mocha and anise as this is already shining brightly aromatically. The palate has an exceedingly deep core with creme de cassis, mocha, anise, red bell pepper and blueberry compote. Massive and intense, this gorgeous wine is merely an infant now and needs at least ten years in the cellar. This will be a hugely long lived wine. Drink 2029-2059- 100

Comment
Chateau Pichon Baron is a simply majestic property that produces some absolutely stunning wines that are not to be missed.

Chateau Pichon Baron is a simply majestic property that produces some absolutely stunning wines that are not to be missed.

Chateau Pichon Baron

April 16, 2019

We shift our focus to some of the storied houses of Bordeaux this week on Washington Wine Blog. A few weeks back I visited Chateau Pichon Baron, one of the famed properties on the left bank of Bordeaux. Château Pichon Longueville Baron was classified as one of fifteen Deuxièmes Crus (Second Growths) in the original 1855 Bordeaux wine classification. Pichon Baron was once part of a larger estate, owned by Pierre de Rauzan and alongside Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. The estate was then divided in 1850 into the two current Pichon estates. While quality remained not as strong as its neighbor, a big change came in 1987 when the estate was bought by a French insurance company AXA which transformed the quality of the wines. Jean-Michel Causes of Chateau Lynch-Bages became the winery administrator which greatly improved quality of this historic estate. Pichon Baron is currently managed by Englishman Christian Seely. 

The winery has 73 hectares which are largely planted to Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot (40%) with smaller portions Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot with average vine age at 30 years. The vineyard is situated at the southern end of the commune of Pauillac near border with the Saint-Julien-Beychevelle appellation. Current winemaker, Alexandra Lebossé, joined Château Pichon Baron in 1999. Assistant technical director and then cellar master since 2007, she became winemaker in 2017. 

I have been enchanted by these wines, particularly those from the mid-90s and on. I fondly remember a bottle of 2001 Chateau Pichon Baron that I enjoyed in Los Angeles a few years back. The wine was truly one of the great wines from that challenging vintage. While visiting Pichon Baron I had the great opportunity to try several wines and I was blown away with the new release of Chateau Pichon Baron, their 2016 (WWB, 95) which is backwards and austere now but shows loads of potential with an incredible core and earthy tones. These wines age brilliantly and I had the chance to revisit the 2010 Chateau Pichon Baron (WWB, 96) which is a massive wine from this incredible vintage in Bordeaux. The wine was starting to hit its stride with dense dark fruits and incredible complexity. Learn more about this famed chateau at https://www.pichonbaron.com Here are my reviews of the recently Chateau Pichon Baron wines. 

Chateau Pichon Baron March 2019 wines.jpg


2016 Chateau Pichon Baron ‘Les Tourelles de Longueville’ Red Wine- The wine is Pichon Baron’s second wine where they have bene producing since 1987. This primarily Merlot (58%) with smaller portions Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon and a touch of Petit Verdot. The wine begins with aromas of red currant jelly blackberry cobbler and mocha. The palate shows good freshness with mocha, anise and creme de cassis flavors. This shows really good density considering the vintage. The freshness and salinity to the wine is outstanding. Drink 2019-2035- 91


2016 Chateau Pichon Baron ‘Les Griffons de Pichon Baron’ Red Wine- This wine has only been produced since 2012. The wine is 52% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Merlot. The nose is seductive with blackberry cobbler, coffee grounds and anise. This has really good dark fruit flavors and grip and acidity as it has a ling way to go in the cellar. Try to resist this great wine for the next two years. Drink 2021-2040- 92


2016 Chateau Pichon Baron- This was 85% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Merlot. A gorgeous Bordelaise nose greets you with green bell pepper, anise, creme de cassis and graphite. The palate is smooth and seductive, with racy acidity. This has a huge core with copious dark fruit flavors with coffee grounds and anise and exotic spice undertones. Rich and layered, this gorgeous wine needs a lot of time as it comes of slightly austere right now. Dense and highly tannic, your patience will be rewarded. Drink 2025-2045- 95


2015 Chateau Pichon Baron- This wine was comprised of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Merlot. The wine was aged in 80% new French oak prior to bottling. The nose is highly seductive with gorgeous blackberry liquor, mocha, graphite and creme de cassis with hints of tar on the nose. The mouth-watering acidity and salty to the wine is simply outstanding. Mocha, anise, cedar and mocha flavors all come together beautifully. Modern and plush, with incredible acidity, and firm tannins, this will be an exceedingly long lived wine. Drink 2025-2050- 96


2010 Chateau Pichon Baron- This wine has marvelously evolved at the nine year mark. On the nose this hits you with green bell pepper, anise and graphite tones that awaken the senses. The texture to this wine is simply astounding. With beautiful acidity, the wine shows incredible balance and roundness. The palate shows amazing freshness with rich dark fruit flavors with exotic spice and firm tannins rounding out this beautiful wine. Complex and delicious now, this beautiful wine will continue to evolve for two to three more decades. Drink 2021-2050- 96

Comment
Here I am pictured with a few of the brilliant wines from the 2006 vintage in Sauternes that is absolutely worth a revisit.

Here I am pictured with a few of the brilliant wines from the 2006 vintage in Sauternes that is absolutely worth a revisit.

2006 Sauternes Retrospective

April 12, 2019

Today we offer a glimpse into the past and revisit what was not considered by critics to be the best of vintages in Sauternes. The 2006 vintage was generally challenging throughout Bordeaux. I have recently sampled some 2006 Bordeaux red wines from great producers and I have generally been disappointed with the wines. Sauternes and Barsac were seen to produce some of the top wines of the vintage which saw some ripe fruit based on the heat encountered in July and early September as well as good freshness from a relatively cool August. However the vintage saw a fair amount of grapes with ‘aigre’ (bad rot) was due to heavy rains during mid-September. Sémillon suffered a great deal of spoilage while Sauvignon Blanc tended to fare slightly better as a varietal.

I recently had the great opportunity to revisit this vintage which was challenging but produced some excellent wines. All wines shared a common thread of good freshness at this stage in their development. While this will not be a long-lived vintage, it is energetic and vibrant at this stage — and exceedingly hard to resist. While this vintage in Sauternes may live in the shadow of 2005, the great wines from 2006 are absolutely worth revisiting and remain an exceedingly good value.


2006 Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey Sauternes- A deep, golden hue, the 2006 Laufaurie-Peyraguey opens with a bouquet of honey, vanilla creme brulee, roasted pineapple and candy apricot with ginger undertones. The mouthfeel is soft and delights the palate. Showing beautiful balance, this beautiful wine shows pineapple upside down cake, vanilla cream, butterscotch and suggestions of nutmeg. There is a seamless quality to this wine that is truly beautiful. Drinking marvelously now, this will show well over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2033- 92


2006 Chateau Coutet Barsac- The nose here shines with persimmon and apricot jelly with creme brûlée tones. Showing off an unctuous character the wine has a good freshness that runs through with not the richness of other vintages of Coutet but solid concentration. Vanilla creme brulee, marzipan, beeswax and ripe pineapple flavors all come together nicely in the glass. While not my favorite vintage of this wine, this is showing nicely right now and will cellar well for another decade. Drink 2019-2026- 92


2006 Chateau Guiraud Sauternes- The 2006 Chateau Guiraud is a stunning bottling that has aged gracefully at this juncture. On the nose this shows some really spicy notes with cinnamon alongside rope pineapple and creme brûlée on the nose. The palate shows a good deal of freshness but moderate intensity with vanilla creme brulee, ginger, nutmeg and ripe pineapple flavors. Bright and balanced, this is an excellent showing that is best enjoyed over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2006 Sautrnes Retrospective Rieussec.jpg


2006 Chateau Rieussec Sauternes- Initially reticent and needing 30 minutes of air to fully express itself aromatically, the 2006 Chateau Rieussec opens with a lighter bouquet of butterscotch, buttered popcorn, mango and ginger undertones. The palate shows really good freshness and intensity with a good sense of minerality. Pineapple creme brulee, poached pear, bananas foster and nutmeg flavors complete this beautiful wine. The exceedingly long, finish lingers and rounds out this complete wine. What this doesn’t possess on the nose, exceeds expectations on the palate and finish, as this elegant wine is one of the great wines of this vintage. Enjoy this wonderful wine over the next two decades. Drink 2019-2035- 94


2006 Chateau Climens Barsac- The nose is quite captivating with vanilla creme brulee, apricot, nutmeg and bananas foster. The palate shows wonderful tension and freshness with bananas foster, vanilla cream and apricot flavors. Downright delicious now, this still has a long life ahead of it. The balance and poise here is seriously good. Drink 2019-2035- 93

Comment
Mark Beringer has crafted some absolutely gorgeous new wines for his family winery, Beringer Vineyards.

Mark Beringer has crafted some absolutely gorgeous new wines for his family winery, Beringer Vineyards.

Beringer

April 11, 2019

One of the great stops in Napa with a serious history, Beringer Vineyards dates all the way back to the 1860s. They had enjoyed a storied history at the winery with famed winemaker after another. I was very fond of the wines made by their former winemaker, Laurie Hooke, who crafted some of the best Chardonnay in Napa Valley. Their new winemaker, Mark Beringer, is the great-great-grandson of Beringer Vineyards’ founding brother Jacob Beringer. Mark is highly talented and has shown his great skill set with his last few sets of releases. Mark graduated from California State University in Fresno with an Enology degree in 1990. He then spent a year in the cellars at Benziger in Sonoma and then joined Duckhorn in 1992. Mark began as Enologist and worked his way up to Vice President of Winemaking at Duckhorn. In 2009 Mark joined Artesa as Vice President and Winemaker. In 2015, Mark Beringer came 'home' to Beringer Vineyards, joining as Chief Winemaker. It is quite amazing that they can produce so much high quality wine and keep their pricing extremely reasonable. That makes this lineup of wines some of the best values available out of Napa.

Look to the gorgeous new 2016 Beringer ‘Private Reserve’ Chardonnay (WWB, 94) which is up there with any top American Chardonnay for the price. I was absolutely blown away with the 2015 Beringer ‘Private Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) which exudes class with its beautiful typicality and mouthfeel as well as dense dark fruit flavors. Learn more about these awesome wines at beringer.com Here are the awesome new premium wines by Beringer Vineyards. 


2016 Beringer ‘Napa Valley’ Chardonnay- The 2016 ‘Napa Valley’ Chardonnay opens with brioche, roasted hazelnut and vanilla cream aromas that build in the glass. The palate shows good viscosity with a ripe texture. Marzipan, Meyer lemon cream and toasty oak all combine and lead the a long, cream and mineral-driven finish. Drink 2019-2025- 89


2016 Beringer ‘Luminous’ Chardonnay- The 2016 Beringer ‘Luminous’ Chardonnay is an outstanding effort from this warm vintage in the Napa Valley. Sourced from the Oak Knoll District, on the nose this starts off with an intense bouquet of creme brulee, white peach and bright starfruit that all nicely combine. The texture here is gorgeous as the seamless wine glides across the mid-palate. Vanilla cream, kumquat and creme brûlée flavors all impress on the palate. Seamless and downright delicious, this gorgeous effort will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 92

Beringer 2016 Private Reserve Chardonnay.jpg


2016 Beringer ‘Private Reserve’ Chardonnay- The 2016 ‘Private Reserve’ Chardonnay by Beringer is a stunning wine by superstar winemaker Mark Beringer. Sourced from the Gamble Ranch Vineyard in the Oakville AVA, this wine starts off with beautiful aromas of apricot creme brulee, vanilla cream and kumquat with macadamia nut. The palate is plush and shows a seductive mouthfeel as the wine unveils vanilla cream, buttered popcorn, white peach, butterscotch and roasted pineapple flavors. Seductive and rich, yet beautifully balanced and layered, this is a complete wine by Beringer that will cellar marvelously for the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 94


2016 Beringer ‘Knight’ Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This ‘Knights Valley’ starts off with copious dark fruits with chocolate and roasted figs on the nose. The palate is plush, showing off a silky mouthfeel. Black cherry liquor, mocha and creme de cassis flavors all collide on the palate. With a good sense of place and a lithe minerlality, this wine will cellar well for the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 90


2016 Beringer ‘Knights Valley Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Knights Valley Reserve’ is a barrel selection wine from the best Knights Valley lots. This rendition is an awesome new wine by the talented Mark Beringer. Asian spices and dark chocolate shavings with black fruits fill the nose and provide an exotic edge. The palate is both rich and elegant, as the wine shows some seriously good decadence and poise. Black tea, creme de cassis, mocha and anise flavors all impress. Downright delicious now, this gorgeous wine will continue to evolve over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2019-2033- 93


2016 Beringer ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an awesome new value Cabernet by Beringer. The nose shows really good Napa character with dusty terroir with creme de cassis and anise aromas that all come together well once in the glass. The palate shows a soft texture with dark fruits and chocolate alongside lighter herbal tones that all blend beautifully. This excellent effort needs a juicy burger. Drink 2019-2025- 89


2015 Beringer ‘Quantum’ Red Wine- Sourced from Howell Mountain, this wine is primarily Cabernet Sauvignon (69%) with lesser portions Malbec, Merlot and Petite Sirah. The wine opens with intense aromatics reminiscent of tar, anise, creme de cassis and black cherry compote. The palate is plush and decadent with coffee ground, dark chocolate shavings, roasted figs and hints of crushed mint. Round and generous, this excellent effort will cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 92 


2015 Beringer ‘Private Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2015 ‘Private Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon by Beringer excites with its serious richness and range. This sensational wine shows off a remarkable bouquet with blueberry compote, ripe huckleberry, Arabica coffee bean and blackberry compote.  The palate shows serious viscosity and richness showing beautiful mocha, anise and creme de cassis that build as the wine breathes. Intense and showing an exceedingly long life this beautiful wine needs quite a bit of air to show the most prominently. If enjoying in its youth, be sure to give this at least a two hour decant. Drink 2022-2045- 95

Comment
Here I am pictured with some of the nicest people in Oregon wine, Lange Estate founders Wendy and Don Lange.

Here I am pictured with some of the nicest people in Oregon wine, Lange Estate founders Wendy and Don Lange.

Lange Estate Pinot Noir Retrospective

April 10, 2019

A few months back I had the chance to visit one of the great older houses in Oregon, Lange Estate, which was started by Wendy and Don Lange in 1987. Their son, Jesse has a longstanding history in the wine industry and began helping his parents as a small child. Jesse’s formal winemaking training occurred at New Zealand’s Lincoln University while on a student exchange scholarship from Oregon State in 1999. Jesse then spent two years as cellar rat for winemaker Bruce McGuire at Santa Barbara Winery prior to coming back to his family winery. He joined the winemaking team in 2004 and now serves on the board of the Willamette Valley Wineries Association. Last year Lange opened their new tasting room and I had the chance to visit this beautiful spot, hosted by Wendy and Don. The facility has sweeping views of the Willamette Valley and is a beautiful, highly modern space. For those who have not visited this beautiful new tasting room it is a must-see.

While visiting Lange I had the chance to revisit several older wines and check back with the vintages that I enjoyed when I was first tasting wines from the Willamette Valley. A few things about the vintages that I tried. 2001 was a solid, albeit not spectacular vintage in Oregon. The growing season was excellent and there was very little rain at harvest with weather overall being slightly cool. 2002, on the other hand, is one of my all-time favorite vintages in Oregon as I fondly recall some of the absolutely epic wines that came from this vintage. In 2002 there was a warm and dry growing season and moderate temperatures during harvest produced wines that were not only rich but were full of acidity.

I was blown away with the two older wines shared with me by the Lange family. Both wines were completely different, but in a good way. The 2001 Lange Estate ‘Three Hills Cuvee’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 91) had lost much of the acid backbone but showed insanely good range on the palate with marvelous richness. This wine still has several years left. The show-stopper was the 2002 Lange Estate ‘Three Hills Cuvee’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) which has another decade left and shows an amazing texture and level of complexity. This revisit is a reminder of how I need many more of these older wines in my cellar. Learn more about this storied Oregon estate at 

 https://www.langewinery.com/ Here are my reviews of the older Pinot Noir wines from Lange Estate.

Lange Estate 2001 and 2002 Pinots.jpg


2001 Lange Estate ‘Three Hills Cuvee’ Pinot Noir-This Lange Estate wine was first made in 1997. The nose is quite rich with black tea, wild blackberry with wild mushroom aromas. The palate shows a good minerality with black truffle shavings, peat moss, black tea and black cherry flavors. citrus rind. Complex and delicious, this is showing marvelously and still has a few years left so enjoy this while you can. Drink 2019-2022- 91


2002 Lange Estate ‘Three Hills Cuvee’ Pinot Noir- The 2002 vintage saw near perfect growing conditions. The wine is showing marvelously right now. The palate is plush and dense, showing wonderful range and tension. Black fruits, citrus rind, pomegranate seed and black truffle. Complex and delicious, this is right in its sweet spot. The wine shows good mid-palate richness and is nowhere near finished as this will cellar well for the next decade. Drink 2019-2028- 93



Comment
Here I am pictured with one of the great winemakers in Oregon, Brian Marcy (L) of Big Table Farm.

Here I am pictured with one of the great winemakers in Oregon, Brian Marcy (L) of Big Table Farm.

Big Table Farm

April 9, 2019

One of the great wineries in Oregon, Big Table Farm is led by the team of Clare Carver and Brian Marcy. Big Table Farm crafts some of the best wines in the Willamette Valley. I first started writing about this winery roughly five years ago and they have been gaining more and more national attention — and rightly so. They have now ventured their wine projects into the Walla Walla Rocks District AVA and have crafted a stunning new stony and savory Syrah. Clare is a hugely talented artist, as her beautiful artwork appears on each bottle. She makes each bottle into a work of art, importing special paper from Italy and then hand-labelling each piece.

Brian Marcy has been steadily making a name for himself as one of the top winemakers in Oregon. Having previously worked at famed California wineries, Marcassan and Neyers, Brian is a soft-spoken, wonderful mind in wine. Be on the lookout for their new entry level Pinot Noir, the 2017 Big Table Farm ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 94) which sources from a host of great vineyards and is a stunning new bottling that will cellar well for a decade or more. Their new Syrah, the 2016 Big Table Farm ‘The Funk Estate’ Syrah (WWB, 95) has a light, stony character and has insane range both aromatically and on the palate. This is a wine that is not to be missed for all serious Pacific Northwest wine collectors. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.bigtablefarm.com/ Here are the fantastic new release wines by Big Table Farm.

Big Table Farm March 2019 lineuo.jpg


2017 Big Table Farm ‘The Wild Bee’ Chardonnay- This Willamette Valley Chardonnay was sourced from six different sites across the valley. Better aromatically once warmed up a bit, this opens with sourdough bread, vanilla cream, and hints of ripe pineapple. The palate reveals a silky texture with a wonderful combination of ripeness and minerality. Bright nectarine, lemon zest, and pineapple upside down cake flavors all collide once in the mouth. Beautiful now, this great release by superstar winemaker Brian Marcy will continue to develop well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 93


2017 Big Table Farm ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- Stunning and better than most winery’s top bottlings, the 2017 ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir is another sensational wine made by one of the most underrated winemakers in North America, Brian Marcy. The nose is seductive and highly perfumed with rose petals, guava puree, cigar ash and suggestions of peat moss that all build in the glass. The wine shows off a downright sexy texture, showing a great combination of weight and minerality. Guava puree, red raspberry cordial, blood orange zest and white truffle flavors all dance on the palate. A seriously good wine, this will continue to cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 94


2017 Big Table Farm ‘Pelos Sandberg Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The Pelos Sandberg Vineyard is carefully managed by Don Sandberg, as I have been captivated with this bottling since Brian Marcy first made this wine. The nose is beautifully perfumed, showing serious aromatic range from peat moss and smoke undertones to ripe strawberry to guava and pomegranate puree with citrus rind accents. These delightful scents bring you back to the glass for more. Showing a silky texture, this beautiful wine glides across the mid-palate. Elegant, yet jam-packed full of red fruit, citrus zest and earthy flavors, this Pinot Noir by Big Table Farm simply has it all. Irresistible now, this will cellar well for the next two decades. Drink 2019-2033- 95


2016 Big Table Farm ‘The Funk Vineyard’ Syrah- Years ago I spoke with Clare Carver and Brian Marcy about their interest in crafting a wine from the Walla Walla Rocks District. They have sourced their fruit for this wine from one of the great vineyards in this region, owned by Richard Funk of Saviah Cellars. This wine needs a one hour decant to really open aromatically. Once aroused, this awakens to black olive tapenade, bacon fat, umami, and blackberry pie. The palate shows a really good freshness and weight. There is a seamless quality to this elegant Walla Walla Rocks AVA wine. Asian spices, green olive, orange zest, cran-cherry and a dusting of cocoa powder complete this completely sensational new wine. Delicious now, enjoy this great bottling over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 95

Comment
Kim Kramer crafts some beautiful wines for her family winery, Kramer Vineyards.

Kim Kramer crafts some beautiful wines for her family winery, Kramer Vineyards.

Kramer Vineyards

April 8, 2019

A great historic Oregon winery, Kramer Vineyards was founded in 1983 when Trudy and Keith Kramer acquired their 60 acre property in the Yamhill-Carlton appellation. They eventually planted 22 acres of vines for their estate vineyard and have a wide range of varietals planted including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Müller-Thurgau, Carmine, Muscat, Pinot Meunier and Grüner Veltliner. The Kramer’s daughter, Kim Kramer, serves as winemaker and has been making wine for more than a decade. She has a wealth of experience in the industry, with previous stints in Burgundy as well as St. Innocent. 

Kim makes some beautiful sparkling wines that are astringent and mineral-driven. Look to the beautiful new 2016 Kramer Vineyards ‘Brut Rose’ (WWB, 91) which comes from a warm vintage and has really beautiful range. The 2016 Kramer Vineyards ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 91) is a downright killer value at $34.00 and has a wonderful mouthfeel and black fruit flavors. Learn more about this great winery at https://www.kramervineyards.com Here are the great new wines by Kramer Vineyards.


2017 Kramer Vineyards Sparkling Muller Thurgau- This is a highly unusual varietal for a sparkling wine and has highly perfumed nose with honeysuckle alongside ripe pear and nectarine aromas. The palate is downright delicious with a touch of sweetness alongside pear, honeydew melon and starfruit flavors. This novel wine is simply terrific as it has both freshness and refinement. Drink 2019-2025- 90


2016 Kramer Vineyards ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine- The 2016 Kramer Vineyards ‘Blanc de Blancs’ opens with aromas of hay, ripe pear and Challah bread. There is a good astringency here as the wine reveals green apple, green papaya and a touch of ginger. Refreshing and razor sharp, this is going to entice the somms — and it is delightful on its own or paired with fresh Kumamoto oysters. I imagine this will pick up wonderful tertiary tones as it ages over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 91


2016 Kramer Vineyards ‘Brut’ Sparkling Wine- A blend of 50% Pinot Noir with 31% Chardonnay and 19% Pinot Meunier, this was disgorged in September 2018. On the nose there is good range from citrus rind to wild mushroom to sourdough bread. The palate is lithe and shows a great astringency. I am most impressed with the long finish that accentuates the beautiful sense of tension and balance in the wine. Highly refreshing, this is another great effort by Kramer Vineyards. Drink 2019-2029- 91


2016 Kramer Vineyards ‘Brut Rose’ Sparkling Wine- Showing off a brilliant salmon color, this Rose is primarily Pinot Noir (72%). The nose is quite earthy with peat moss and forest floor that connect with the red fruits. Bright and refreshing, there is a great sense of minerality with bright cran-cherry, blood orange and wild mushroom flavors. Delicious now, this will evolve well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 91


2017 Kramer Vineyards Gruner Veltliner- Quite the unusual bottling for this AVA, the 2017 Kramer Vineyards Gruner Veltliner continues to be one of the more impressive wines of its type in the Pacific Northwest. On the nose this takes on green apple, kumquat and sourdough bread aromas. The palate is lithe and astringent with green apple and kiwi flavors that sit with copious minerals. This will pair marvelously with sushi. Drink 2019-2022- 90


2017 Kramer Vineyards Muller-Thurgau- This bright estate bottling opens with a bouquet of star jasmine with white peach and cantaloupe elements coming on aromatically. The palate is lithe and has a kiss of sweetness with ginger, nectarine and Japanese pear flavors. This is just a fantastic effort by the talented Kim Kramer. Drink 2019-2022- 90


2017 Kramer Vineyards White Pinot Noir- The nose is distinctly earthy with forest floor as well as bright melon and kiwi aromas that connect with citrus blossom undertones. The texture to this wine truly sings. Nectarine, cantaloupe and lychee flavors all connect with the good sense of minerality on the palate. This is another seriously good wine by Kramer Vineyards. Drink 2019-2024- 90


2017 Kramer Vineyard ‘Stainless’ Chardonnay- The ‘Stainless’ Chardonnay is sourced from the Kramer Estate Vineyard, first planted in 1984. Honeydew melon, Challah bread and ripe pear aromas all entice. The palate shows good lip-smacking acidity with bright melon and baked apple flavors that connect with the tension in the wine. This is a terrific wine for a range of shellfish. The long citrus and mineral-driven finish impresses. Drink 2019-2024- 90

Kramer Vineyards 2016 Pinot Noir.png


2016 Kramer Vineyards ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir is a terrific entry level effort from this storied family winery. On the nose this shows good range from cranberry to cola to suggestions of black tea and peat moss. The palate is very elegant and shows a silky mouthfeel. Black tea, blackberry cobbler and citrus rind with wet stone flavors all collide on the palate. A seriously good wine, enjoy this over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 91


2016 Kramer Vineyards ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from their estate vineyard which is now more than thirty years of age, this opens with a bouquet of white pepper, red currant jelly and suggestions of baking spices with pomegranate seed. Showing a refreshing edge, there is a vibrant minerality to this wine as it unveils lighter red fruit flavors that connect with citrus rind and earthy accents. Lithe and light on its feet, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 91


2016 Kramer Vineyards ‘Heritage’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Heritage’ Pinot Noir is another outstanding wine made by the talented Kim Kramer. This opens with an enticing bouquet of red fruits with citrus rind and a touch of cola on the nose. There is a delicate, soft texture while the wine maintains a sterling acidity. Red currant, pomegranate seed, peat moss and wild blackberry cordial flavors all collide on the palate. Delicious now, this will evolve well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 92


2016 Kramer Vineyards Syrah- Sourced from the Columbia Valley, this opens with bright red and dark fruits with chocolate undertones on the nose. The palate shows good freshness with medium bodied dark and red fruits that mingle with minerals. Drink 2019-2025- 89



Comment
Great photo here of Toil Oregon founder, Chis Figgins.

Great photo here of Toil Oregon founder, Chis Figgins.

Toil Oregon

April 5, 2019

One of the great Oregon wine projects, Toil Oregon is masterminded by superstar winemaker, Chris Figgins, who was enchanted by Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. A man needing no introduction, Chris has been crafting some of the best wines in Washington for decades at his family winery, Leonetti Cellar. Originally launched in 2012, Toil Oregon started with a production of 200 cases and it has grown considerably since then. The wines are sourced from a host of vineyards in the Willamette Valley and in 2016 Chris planted his estate vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. I eagerly await wines from that vineyard, 

One thing I have noticed in the past several years is that the quality of the wines has increased as well. My guess is that Chris is becoming more and more familiar with making wines with the sometimes fickle Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grape. I have recently tried an older bottle of Toil Pinot Noir and I found the quality to be excellent but not the upper echelon level that is found in their current release. The 2017 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir (WWB, 94) is a simply dazzling new release. Simply put, this Pinot Noir has it all — from beautiful red fruits and citrus notes — to incredible elegance and vibrant minerality. All serious Pacific Northwest collectors should take notice to this gorgeous new release. I was also blown away with the quality of their 2018 Toil Oregon Rose (WWB, 93) which is one of the best Rose wines in North America that I have sampled in the past year. This beautiful wine has an incredible texture and beautiful acidity. It is a gorgeous, stand alone wine that deserves serious attention. Learn more about this great winery at toiloregon.com Here are the brilliant new wines by Toil Oregon.

Toil Oregon 2019 wines.jpg


2018 Toil Oregon Rose- The nose is quite compelling once in the glass, as this beautiful Pinot Noir Rose awakens to unveil pink grapefruit blossom, rose water and red cherry candy aromatics that all mingle in the glass. The palate shows a beautiful texture and weight as this silky, stand along Rose shows a flair of Provence. Blood orange, guava puree and Meyer lemon zest flavors with lighter suggestions of peat moss combine with lip smacking acidity on the palate. The finish lasts for nearly a minute. Exceedingly good, highly poised and satisfying, this classy effort will be enjoyed over the next eight years, picking up tertiary notes as it ages. Drink 2019-2025- 93


2017 Toil Oregon Chardonnay- The 2017 Toil Oregon Chardonnay is a classy effort by superstar winemaker Chris Figgins. Needing an hour decant to be fully aroused, the wine slowly opens with wild mushroom, salted macadamia nut and lemon zest aromas that entice. On the mouth, this shows of a smooth texture with bright lemon rind, wet stone and earthy undertones. The exceedingly long, mineral and lemon zest-driven finish excites. Seriously good now, this will continue to develop over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 92


2017 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir- The 2017 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir is a simply stunning new wine by this exciting project by Chris Figgins. This great new wine was largely stored in used French oak prior to bottling (31% new). The wine needs roughly a one hour decant to fully develop. Slowly awakening in the glass, the Pinot Noir opens with very pretty aromatics of ripe strawberry, guava puree, red cherry candy and orange rind that all connect on the nose. Silky smooth on the palate, the wine unveils a beautiful mouthfeel that entices. Ripe red fruits dance with wet stone, kumquat and black truffle shaving flavors. There is a seamless quality to this elegant wine. While delicious now, the 2017 Toil Pinot Noir will continue to evolve over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 9

Comment
Here we have the talented Chris Williams who has crafted a beautiful set of new releases for Brooks.

Here we have the talented Chris Williams who has crafted a beautiful set of new releases for Brooks.

Brooks

April 4, 2019

One of the finest producers of Riesling in Oregon, Brooks was founded by Jimi Brooks, a Portland native who came to wine through his passion for history and philosophy. Jimi previously worked in Beaujolais, and eventually returned to Oregon to focus on crafting great Riesling and Pinot Noir. Brooks farms twenty acres in the Eola-Amity Hills, a sub-region of the Willamette Valley characterized by higher altitudes and the ocean winds that blow through the Van Duzer Corridor. Head winemaker Chris Williams has previous stops at Maysara and WillaKenzie prior to becoming Brooks head winemaker in 2005. He has become one of the great winemakers for Riesling in North America.

Chris has crafted a seriously good sparkling wine, his 2015 Brooks Sparkling Riesling (WWB, 91) which has just a touch of sweetness and shows really bright acidity. While his overall lineup of Rieslings were stellar across the board, I was particularly blown away with the 2016 Brooks ‘Bois Joli’ Riesling (WWB, 94) which is one of the best Riesling wine I have ever sampled from the Willamette Valley. This wine shows incredible terroir and a gorgeous sense of minerality. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://www.brookswine.com/ Here are the outstanding new wines by Brooks. 


2015 Brooks Sparkling Riesling- The 2015 Sparkling Riesling is one of the best wines of its kind that I have sampled.  This warm vintage wine was sourced from largely the Hyland Vineyard (60%) as well as the Yamhill (38%) and Orchard Fold Vineyard (2%). The bouquet is quite nice with honeysuckle and lemon zest aromas that build in the glass. A kiss of sweetness hits you with a good astringency considering the heat of the vintage. I can see this unique wine cellaring well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 91


2017 Brooks ‘Ara’ Riesling- The 2017 Brooks ‘Ara’ Riesling is another outstanding effort from Brooks. Made in the ‘Trocken’ style, this shows good tension and astringency on the palate with bright pear and green apple flavors, and earthy undertones, finishing with a great sense of minerality. Drinking marvelously nowm, this will continue to evolve well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2026- 92


2016 Brooks ‘Monk’s Gate Vineyard’ Riesling- Located in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, this great Riesling shows petrol with green apple and white flowers that persist on the nose. The palate shows wonderful textbook Brooks freshness with a vibrant minerality. Melon and green apple with wet stone flavors all marvelously combine. Refreshing and drinking marvelously now, this will continue to evolve over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 93


2016 Brooks ‘LaChenaie Vineyard’ Riesling- The ‘LaChenaie Vineyard’ Riesling is another spectacular effort from this estate. Orange blossom and green apple with wet stone accents mark the nose. Slightly sweet, with good astringency, the palate reveals Pink Lady apple, honeydew melon and candied ginger favors with lighter petrol accents. Brilliant now, this will continue to cellar well for a decade. Drink 2019-2029- 92


2016 Brooks ‘Orchard Fold Vineyard’ Riesling- The 2016 ‘Orchard Fold Vineyard’ Riesling by Brooks is a spectacular effort from this warm vintage in the Willamette Valley.The nose shows good green apple and stony character with suggestions of wild mushroom and kiwi that connect. Made in the ‘Trocken’ style, with just a hint of sweetness, the palate reveals really good energy and verve with lighter citrus rind and green apple flavors with hints of ginger. Drink 2019-2029- 93


2016 Brooks ‘Meyer Vineyard’ Riesling- Located in the Dundee Hills AVA, the ‘Meyer Vineyard’ is set at 800 feet elevation. You can get a touch of sweetness on the nose with the candied ginger and baked apple aromas that connect with lighter earthy tones. The palate is highly refreshing and gratifying, showing very limited sweetness with Granny Smith apple, kiwi and unripe cantaloupe flavors.  This would be a marvelous pairing for sushi. Drink 2019-2029- 93


2016 Brooks ‘Bois Joli Vineyard’ Riesling- This absolutely terrific Eola-Amity Hills AVA vineyard wine shows bright pear and green papaya aromas that connect with lighter stony character on the nose. The palate is highly refreshing and delivers gobs of mouth-watering acidity with bright pear, Granny Smith apple, kumquat and cantaloupe with wet stone flavors. A delight to savor, this will continue to evolve well fort the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 94


2016 Brooks ‘Muska Vineyard’ Riesling- Located in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, the Muska Vineyard is farmed by Carl Muska and is set at roughly 500 feet. The nose shows brilliant wet stone and peat moss character alongside melon and green apple aromatics. With the slightest bit of sweetness, the wine revals bright kiwi and pear flavors that connect with the wet stone and earthy accents on the palate. Drink 2019-2029- 93


2016 Brooks ‘Cahiers’ Riesling- Sourced from a host of Willamette Valley vineyards, the ‘Cahiers’ is an awesome new Riesling by Chris WIlliams. On the nose this shows green apple with petrol and sweetened melon aromas that build in the glass. The palate reveals a Kabinett style of sweetness with candied ginger, melon and bright pear flavors with a touch of wet stone. Bright and downright delicious now, this beautiful wine will continue to evolve over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 93


2016 Brooks ‘Sweet P’ Riesling- The ‘Sweet P’ as it suggests, shows some moderate sweetness on the nose with honey and bright pear aromas that impress. The palate is bright and shows some Spatlase level sweetness with sweetened pear, melon and bright starfruit flavors with a good sense of tension. This is an excellent effort by Brooks. Drink 2019-2029- 92


2017 Brooks ‘Brooks Estate Vineyard’ Riesling- Set in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, the ‘Brooks Estate Vineyard’ is perched at 650 feet. The nose shows really good range from ginger to exotic spice to baked apple and lighter stony character that carry this beautiful Riesling. With a hint of sweetness, the palate reveals really good freshness with bright kiwi, ginger, starfruit and wet stone flavors. Mineral-driven and showing really good tension, this bright effort will continue to evolve over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2032- 93

Brooks Totality Riesling.png


2017 Brooks ‘Totality’ Riesling- Named after the 2017 full eclipse, the 2017 ‘Totality’ is a stunning new wine by Brooks. Intensely perfumed, this offers fragrant white peach, candied ginger and bright Japanese pear aromatics that build in the glass. The palate offers dazzling minerality with bright pear, wild mushroom, green apple and kiwi flavors that all marvelously combine. Intense and layered, this beautiful wine will continue to evolve over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2032- 93

Comment
Great photo here of the Perrin family, who run one of the great houses in the southern Rhone, Chateau de Beaucastel.

Great photo here of the Perrin family, who run one of the great houses in the southern Rhone, Chateau de Beaucastel.

Chateau de Beaucastel

April 3, 2019

A famed house the southern Rhone region of France, Chateau de Beaucastel produces some of the finest Chateauneuf du Pape in the world. Everyone who has tried this wine can think back to their first bottle of Chateau de Beaucastel. I recall my first one while I was in college, enjoying the absolutely epic 1998 Chateau de Beaucastel. I remember the stunning combination of weight and tension in the bottle — one that literally begs you to enjoy more. The region of Chateauneuf du Pape has an incredible history and was was first mentioned in 11th century historical records. The town of Avignon in this region was the previous site of the papacy, following a Roman invasion. Bertrand de Got, archbishop of Bordeaux, was elected pope in 1305, and took the name of Clement V as he transferred the papacy from Rome to Avignon in 1309. The register of pontifical letters reveals that Clement V visited Châteauneuf on several occasions, sometimes for long periods of time.

It is quite clear that wine had some influence in this region before the arrival of the papacy but there are no actual historical records of wine or vineyards prior to this time. We do know that most of the wine grown in this region prior to the 18th century was drunk within a year, which was true to the cultural times. It wasn’t until 1923 when local wine producers led the way to have their wines classified as Châteauneuf-du-Pape Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) was formed.

Chateau de Beaucastel has a longstanding history in Chateauneuf du Pape. The winery is named after the Beaucastel family which lived in this region in the 16th century. Records show a Pierre de Beaucastel buying a barn and some associated land at Coudoulet in 1549, and this land is still part of Château de Beaucastel's holdings. In the 19th century, when the Phylloxera epidemic struck the region, the owner decided not to replant the vineyards but rather to sell the property. In 1909, it was bought by Pierre Tramier, and the vineyards were rebuilt under his ownership. After him, his son-in-law Pierre Perrin took over management and expanded Château de Beaucastel's vineyard holdings considerably. The property has stayed in the Perrin family since.

In the past I have had the great fortune to sample some very old bottlings of this estate, back to 1990. These wines are extremely complex, acid driven and age-worthy. Chateau de Beaucastel is one of the few wineries that uses 13 different Rhone varietals in its Châteauneuf du Pape, and typically uses a high proportion of Mourvèdre. I was very impressed with the vertical tasting, as these wines show as well as any other estate in Chateauneuf du Pape. They also produce a highly sought after white wine which is largely a blend of 80% Roussanne (80%) as well as 5% Grenache Blanc with the remaining 5% coming from an assemblage of Clairette, Bourboulenc and Picardan. 

I was absolutely blown away with their new release Blanc, the 2016 Chateau de Beaucastel Blanc (WWB, 96) which has a hedonistic texture and is incredibly layered. This is one for the cellar. I have had a chance to revisit some of the more recent releases of Chateau de Beaucastel and have been absolutely delighted to see how they are showing. The 2014 Chateau de Beaucastel (WWB, 96), is a wine of incredible terroir, power and finesse. Quite simply, this is Beaucastel at its best with its incredible range of green peppercorns, Provencale herbs and dark fruits. This massive wine will evolve gracefully for decades. Learn more about Chateau de Beaucastel at http://www.beaucastel.com/en/ Here are the beautiful new releases wines and older vintages of Chateau de Beaucastel. 


2016 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc- The 2016 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a stunning new wine from this famed estate in Chateauneuf du Pape. Needing more than an hour decant to fully develop, this pear colored wine starts off with beeswax, brandy soaked pear, nutmeg, and ripe banana that impress on the nose. The intoxicating bouquet brings you back to the glass for more delight. Once in the mouth, the unctuous mouthfeel entices the senses. Silky smooth gliding through the palate, flavors reminiscent of baked pear, marzipan, banana bread and honeydew melon move through, leading to an exceeding long and satisfying finish. The salinity and light stony character of the wine further pushes this into the upper echelon of this prestigious region in the Rhone Valley. Enjoyable now, this wine will cellar well for decades. Drink 2019-2038- 96


2015 Chateau de Beacastel Chateauneuf du Pape- The 2015 Chateau de Beaucastel is a stunning wine which has utilized all 13 varietals that are allowed in Chateauneuf du Pape. The wine needs roughy a one hour decant to fully show its potential. The Beaucastel shows off a stunning nose of coffee grounds, green peppercorn, blackberry jam, herbs de provence, with bacon fat with underlying suggestions of wet stone. Firm and focused, the wine delivers delicious blackberry cordial, black olive tapenade, Umami and crushed wet stone flavors. The combination of richness and freshness here makes this wine simply irresistible. While this is marvelous now, the wine has many decades ahead of it. Drink 2019-2040- 96

Chateau Beaucastel 2014 Beaucastel.jpg


2014 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape- The 2014 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape has evolved considerably since its release roughly two years ago and is utterly delicious at this point in its evolution. The wine shows best following a one hour decant. Once aroused this beautiful wine opens with a bright bouquet of Provencale herbs, green peppercorns, cigar box and copious dark fruits that all marvelously mingle together in the glass. Deep and seductive, the wine has a gloriously rich texture and a silky smooth mouthfeel as it gracefully glides across the mid-palate. The wine unveils intense flavors of green olive tapenade, red currant, bacon fat, blackberry cobbler and green peppercorn with herbal and peat moss undertones that build on the palate. The combination of weight and minerality is stunning here. Highly pleasurable now, the wine will have an exceedingly long life in the cellar. Drink 2019-2040- 96

Comment
Dr. Laura Catena is one of the icons in world wine.

Dr. Laura Catena is one of the icons in world wine.

Bodega Catena Zapata

April 2, 2019

One of the iconic houses out of Argentina, Bodega Catena Zapata can be traced back more than a century to Nicola Catena, an Italian immigrant, who planted his first vineyard in Mendoza, Argentina in 1902. Owned today by Nicolás Catena and his daughter Dr. Laura, Bodega Catena Zapata produces some of the finest wines out of Argentina. A trained economist, Nicolás began working hard to improve wine quality at his estate in the 1980s as these wines became highly acclaimed by wine critics near and far. 

One of the major reasons for the increase in quality was Nicolas’s bold decision to plant both Chardonnay and Malbec at a 5,000 feet elevation. This was an unusual vineyard practice at the time but the risk paid off. Soon Nicolas was crafting incredible wines from these vines. In 2001 Nicolas' daughter Dr. Laura Catena took over the Research & Development program at Bodega Catena Zapata. An Emergency Room physician, with degrees from Harvard and Stanford, Dr. Laura Catena brought a very strong science background to the family winery's R&D project. She immediately set about working with the high altitude Malbec that her father had planted and has achieved incredible success at the winery since taking over.

The new releases from Catena and their talented winemaker, Alejandro Vigil, were gorgeous across the board. One of the great Chardonnays that I have tasted from Argentina, the 2016 Bodega Catena Zapata ‘White Stones Adrianna Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 94) has incredible texture and freshness with a Chablis-like character.  I was totally blown away with the 2014 Bodega Catena Zapata ’Nicolas Catena’ Red Wine (WWB, 95) which shows a seriously good combination of elegance and weight. This massive wine will cellar well for two decades. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.catenawines.com Here are the gorgeous new releases from Catena


2016 Bodega Catena Zapata ‘White Stones Adrianna Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The ‘White Stones’ Chardonnay by Bodega Catena Zapata is a stunning new wine that was sourced from select 27 rows within Block 1 of the Adrianna Vineyard. The wine was aged for 12 months in French oak puncheons prior to bottling. On the nose this shows gorgeous salinity with wet stone and bright Meyer lemon zest aromas that build in the glass. The palate shows incredible freshness and intensity with lemon rind, vanilla creme brûlée and gorgeous stony character. A complete wine, this impressive effort would pass for a top Chablis. Enjoyable now, this will continue to cellar well over the next decade as this is a stunning new wine by the talented Alejandro Vigil. Drink 2019-2029- 94


2016 Bodega Catena Zapata  Cabernet Sauvignon- The Catena Cabernet Sauvignon begins with aromas of mocha, anise, sandalwood and suggestions of baking spices that all impress. The palate shows good richness and intensity with excellent poise. Good terroir and dark fruits fill the palate, with a chocolate edge. Delicious now, this will cellar well for the next eight to ten years. Drink 2019-2026- 90


2016 Bodega Catena Zapata  Malbec- The 2016 Catena Malbec shows really beautiful typicity at this time. Smoky undertones with white pepper and dark chocolate aromas all connect in the glass. The palate shows good richness with blueberry compote, mocha, anise and creme de cassis flavors. Delicious now, this will cellar well for the next decade. Drink 2019-2028- 91


2016 Bodega Catena Zapata ‘Alta’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 ‘Alta’ Cabernet Sauvignon by Catena starts off with dark fruits on the nose with chocolate fudge and a whiff of smoke. The soft texture really entices, as does the blackberry jam, coffee ground and anise flavors with a touch of fennel. A delight to enjoy right now, this will continue to cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2031- 92


2016 Bodega Catena Zapata ‘Alta’ Malbec- Sourced from the Angélica, La Pirámide, Nicasia and Adrianna vineyards, the 2016 ‘Alta’ Malbec by Catena is a stunning new wine that beautifully showcases this special terroir. On the nose the wine slowly unveils espresso bean, anise, dark chocolate shavings and shades of blueberry pie that all fill the glass. The texture to this wine is exceedingly good, delivering a nice sense of decadence. Mocha, blueberry compote, cassis and sandalwood flavors all marvelously amalgamate. Rich and layered, this is drinking well in its youth but will continue to develop over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2019-2032- 93


2015 Bodega Catena Zapata ‘D.V. Catena Tinto Historico’ Red Wine- The ‘D.V. Catena Tinto Historico’ is a gorgeous blend of largely Malbec (72%) with smaller portions Bonarda (21%) and Petit Verdot (7%). Showing off its inky core, the wine awakens to green peppercorn, milk chocolate and blueberry compote aromas that impress. The palate has a good degree of freshness and richness. Milk chocolate malt balls, blueberry pie, anise and green bell pepper flavors all impress. Enjoyable now, this will continue to evolve over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2019-2032- 92

Catena 2014 Nicolas Catena Zapata .jpg


2014 Bodega Catena Zapata ‘Nicolas Catena Zapata’ Red Wine- The 2014 ‘Nicolas Catena Zapata’ is a gorgeous blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Malbec, as this wine was first made with the 1997 vintage. Sourced from the La Pirámide Vineyard (3,117 ft) as well as the Nicasia Vineyard (3,593 feet) and the Adrianna Vineyard (4,747 feet) the wine starts off with a gorgeous bouquet of dark currant, blackberry pie, mocha and spicecake that all marvelously combine in the glass. The dazzling minerality and texture to the wine really creates a seductive edge to this beautiful wine. Blueberry pie, black tea, Asian spices and dark chocolate shaving flavors all come together as the long, mineral and dark fruit driven finish delivers a lasting effect. Delicious now, be sure to give this a two hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2020-2040- 95


2014 Bodega Catena Zapata ‘Adrianna Vineyard Fortuna Terrae’ Malbec- Fortuna Terrae is translated as ‘luck of the land’ in Latin, and those who sample this wine can also consider themselves lucky. This gorgeous effort shows an intense bouquet of nutmeg, milk chocolate and blubbery pie with hints of dark currants. The sense of refinement and silky texture to this wine is truly outstanding. Dark and blue fruits line this wine with a milk chocolate edge. The finish is exceedingly long and gratifying.  This is truly Argentinian Malbec at its best by superstar winemaker Alejandro Vigil. Try to resist this stunning wine for another year at least. Drink 2020-2040- 96


2015 Bodega Catena Zapata ‘Argentino’ Malbec- The ‘Argentino’ Malbec is a stunning wine by the talented Alejandro Vigil that was sourced from the Catena Zapata Family Vineyards, Nicasia and Angélica Vineyards. This inky colored Malbec was aged in French oak for 18 months prior to bottling. The wine opens with an intense bouquet of Asian spice, mocha, blueberry pie and suggestions of graphite. The texture and mouthfeel to this wine is sumptuous. Black tea, blackberry cobbler, crushed mint and mocha with ripe blueberry flavors all marvelously come together. Seductive and showing good poise, this excellent wine will continue to cellar well for twenty years. Drink 2019-2040- 95



2 Comments
← Newer Posts Older Posts →
 

Latest Posts

Featured
Dec 18, 2025
The 10 Best Wines That I Tasted in 2025
Dec 18, 2025
Dec 18, 2025
Dec 16, 2025
Owen Bargreen Top 100 of 2025
Dec 16, 2025
Dec 16, 2025
Dec 15, 2025
Castello di Amorosa
Dec 15, 2025
Dec 15, 2025
Dec 15, 2025
Chateau Montelena
Dec 15, 2025
Dec 15, 2025
Dec 14, 2025
ROCO
Dec 14, 2025
Dec 14, 2025
Dec 12, 2025
Dutton Goldfield
Dec 12, 2025
Dec 12, 2025
Dec 12, 2025
Frank Family Vineyards
Dec 12, 2025
Dec 12, 2025
Dec 12, 2025
Granville Wine Co.
Dec 12, 2025
Dec 12, 2025
Dec 12, 2025
Dossier
Dec 12, 2025
Dec 12, 2025
Dec 11, 2025
Davis Bynum
Dec 11, 2025
Dec 11, 2025
Dec 8, 2025
Chosen Family Wines
Dec 8, 2025
Dec 8, 2025
Dec 8, 2025
J. Lohr
Dec 8, 2025
Dec 8, 2025
Dec 6, 2025
Maison Jussiaume
Dec 6, 2025
Dec 6, 2025
Dec 5, 2025
Quilceda Creek
Dec 5, 2025
Dec 5, 2025
Dec 4, 2025
Cellar Selection: 2017 FIGGINS Red Wine
Dec 4, 2025
Dec 4, 2025
Dec 4, 2025
Grapes of Spain
Dec 4, 2025
Dec 4, 2025
Dec 3, 2025
Spottswoode
Dec 3, 2025
Dec 3, 2025
Dec 3, 2025
Sea Smoke
Dec 3, 2025
Dec 3, 2025
Dec 3, 2025
Latta
Dec 3, 2025
Dec 3, 2025
Dec 3, 2025
Delmas
Dec 3, 2025
Dec 3, 2025