Force Majeure

On rare occasion I find it necessary to write a feature immediately after I have tasted the wines. I really savor that concept, keeping wines fresh in your memory as if you have just tried them. Such is the case with last night as I met with superstar winemaker, Todd Alexander, at RN74 Seattle. It had been a year since I tried his Force Majeure wines and I was due for a visit. Todd has recently taken over consultant winemaking duties at The Walls, so he has been very busy of late. We traded travel stories and embarked on what was an epic journey into Washington wine. Todd formerly was winemaker at Bryant Family before coming to Washington and taking the reins at Force Majeure. I have seen a remarkable change at the winery since he has taken over the program. HIs deft Napa touch is evident in the wines as his lineup all share the common vein of great viscosity and mouthfeel, as he is able to capture texturally elegant and gratifying wines. 

Quite simply, the new Force Majeure lineup is up there with the best of Washington. I was blown away with the new 2017 Force Majeure ‘Parvata’ Red Wine (WWB, 95) which is the best bottling of this that I have sampled. This wine has electric range and a gorgeous, dense mouthfeel. Even better was the 2017 Force Majeure ‘Estate’ Syrah (WWB, 96) which is a massive, hedonistic, monster of a wine that not only carries sensational weight and viscosity but seriously good tension and acidity. This is one for the cellar. His Bordeaux style wines were just as thrilling. Do not miss out on the 2017 Force Majeure ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 97) which is up there with the best of its kind in Washington. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://forcemajeurevineyards.com Here are the sensational new release wines by Force Majeure 

2017 Force Majeure ‘Parvata’ Red Wine- Sanskrit for ‘mountain’ the ‘Parvata’ is a silky blend of 42% Mourvedre, 25% Grenache and 25% Syrah with smaller portions Cinsault and Counoise. The wine was aged for 25% new French oak, mostly in larger format oak barrels (400L to 500L), prior to bottling. The ‘Parvata’ starts off with black cherry cordial and shades of black licorice and seaweed that combine smoky and earthy undertones on this expressive nose. The palate has wonderful weight and density, as the silky mouthfeel is thrilling to savor. Showing seriously good flavor range, the wine unveils dense dark fruits with Umami, black peppered sirloin and shades of bulls blood that all march in line on this expressive palate. Thrilling now to savor, the ‘Parvata’ is a joy to consume in its youth and will provide drinking enjoyment over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 95

2017 Force Majeure ‘Les Voles’ Mourvedre- Translated as ‘The Stolen’ in French, the ‘Les Voles’ Mourvedre is a spectacular new bottling by superstar winemaker Todd Alexander. Sourced from their Force Majeure Estate Vineyard on Red Mountain, the ‘Les Voles’ opens with aromas of Black Forest cake and smoke that mingle with white pepped bacon and kirsch cordial that all mingle together in the glass. The palate has deftly combined great freshness, verve and richness, with a silky mouthfeel that delights. Black cherry cough syrup, dark licorice, smoked pork shoulder and shades of green olive tapenade with lighter earthy and flinty tones occupy the palate. Savory and smoky, with wonderful weight, yet not coming across overly heavy, the ‘Les Voules’ is a stunning, one of a kind Mourvedre that is amongst the best of its kind in the state. Drink 2020-2035- 95

2017 Force Majeure ‘Estate’ Syrah- The 2017 Force Majeure ‘Estate’ Syrah is a scintillating new bottling by the talented Todd Alexander. The aromatic range is thrilling from bacon fat to dried herbs and lavender infused black tea that collide with rich dark fruits and sagebrush undertones that take shape in the glass. The texture and mouthfeel of the wine is seriously good while the bright acidity provides a beautiful backbone. A deep core of dark fruits expansively greet you on the palate, combining with shades of Hoisin sauce, smoked brisket, coffee grounds and suggestions of blueberry compote that all create a beautiful range of flavors. Gorgeous now in its youth the 2017 Force Majeure ‘Estate' Syrah will cellar well for the next fifteen years — but is nearly impossible to resist in its youth. Drink 2020-2035- 96

2017 Force Majeure ‘Epinette’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Epinette’ Red Wine is a thrilling blend of 53% Merlot with 26% Cabernet Sauvignon and smaller portions Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Literally meaning ‘pine tree’ in French, this is a nod to Washington State and a link to the pine trees that line the right bank of Bordeaux. The deep dark and blue fruits on the nose marvelously meld with tar and mocha aromatics that are deftly woven together in the glass. The freshness and verve of the wine is outstanding, as a light salinity runs through the core of black cherry cordial, blueberry compote, blackberry compote, exotic spices, mocha, tar and black licorice with sagebrush undertones that all mingle together in the glass. Lightly tannic and rich, yet beautifully balanced, this gorgeous wine really needs a few years of bottle age to fly come into its own. No doubt the 2017 ‘Epinette’ will cellar gracefully for two plus decades. Drink 2022-2040- 96

2017 Force Majeure ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon by Force Majeure is a stunning showing from this estate vineyard high up on Red Mountain. Aged for 80% new French oak for 22 months, this opens with tar and Turkish coffee aromatics that meld with shades of blackberry pie and shades of black tea and exotic spices that all mingle together in the glass. The voluptuous mouthfeel eagerly coats the mid-palate. The wine has moderate tannins that line an intense and highly gratifying core of dark fruits that combine with black licorice, cigar box and creme de cassis flavors. Combination of elegance and rich dark fruit flavors really impress. Sensational in its youth, give this at least a two hour decant prior to enjoying. Drink 2022-2045- 97

2017 Force Majeure ‘Estate’ Tempranillo- Sourced from their one block planted in the Force Majeure Vineyard on Red Mountain, the 2017 Force Majeure ‘Estate’ Tempranillo opens with lovely earthy tones that combine with Hoisin sauce, milk chocolate and shades of wild blackberry preserves that all meld together in the glass. The textural elements to the wine are downright scintillating considering the varietal. Showing amazing weight and verve, this moderately tannic wine delivers black currants that mingle with smoked brisket and suggestions of blueberry compotes and milk chocolate flavors. This is truly one of a kind. Beautiful and every bit hedonistic, yet marvelously balanced in its youth, give this at least a two hour decant if enjoying in its nascent phase. Drink 2020-2038- 96

Washington Wine Blog Critic’s Choice of Washington 2020 Presents The Rocks District

Friends,

We have a very special section at our Feb 15th Critic’s Choice of Washington Event. Many top producers from The Rocks District will be represented at our WWB event in their own special section for our tasting. The wineries represented will be: Delmas, Reynvaan, Sleight of Hand, Doubleback, Rasa, Force Majeure, K Vintners, Betz, W.T. Vintners and Saviah. This will be a tremendous opportunity to try these producers and also 2019 Washington Wine Blog Winery of the Year Cayuse Vineyards.

We have a few tickets remaining so do not miss out on this very special opportunity. Follow link to tickets:

https://www.eventbrite.com/e/washington-wine-blog-critics-choice-of-washington-2020-tickets-86828631775

Brewer-Clifton

Last year I was at a wine event and spotted Greg Brewer from afar. We greeted each other and ironically the first thing we talked about wasn’t wine. ‘I really like that new video,’ as I brought up a high-production and resolution video that was made for promoting Brewer-Clifton wines. ‘Yeah, that was fun to do,’ Greg explained. The video depicts Greg sitting on a beach on a gorgeous summer day, as he casually talks about his wines and wines from the Santa Barbara region. I tried the wines he was pouring and walking away I realized that the video is literally the last thing I should be talking about as I was given a reminder that the wines from Brewer-Clifton are anything but casual beach wines. These are serious wines, stating with their entry level wines and across the board to their downright thrilling single vineyard Pinot Noirs.I first tried these wines during my inaugural visit to Santa Barbara Wine Country in 2004 and I continue to be really impressed with what Greg does with his wines. When you look at the consistency of his product, vintage to vintage, Greg is truly one of the great winemakers in North America. 

I recently had the chance to review all of his new release wines and they were amazing across the board. A few years back Greg launched his ‘Diatom’ project, named after the diatomaceous earth that is found throughout Santa Barbara County. The 2018 Diatom ‘Bar-M’ Chardonnay (WWB, 94) is a show-stopping effort that is marvelously textured and has magical tension and salinity that runs through the wine. Wait for the long, gratifying finish!  Even better was the 2016 Brewer-Clifton ‘Machado’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) which is a roller-coaster ride filled with brightness, range and brilliant terroir. Learn more about these special wines at https://www.brewerclifton.com Here are the great new wines by Greg Brewer and Brewer-Clifton.

2018 Diatom ‘Katherine’s’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Katherine’s’ Chardonnay shows nice salted Marcona almond and pink grapefruit tones that build together aromatically. The palate is exceedingly bright and lithe, showing off a silky texture and yielding medium-bodied lemon cream and saline drenched Challah bread flavors. The long finish is exceedingly good. This has just terrific length and elegance. Fantastic now, this will continue to build for another seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 93

2018 Diatom ‘Bar-M’ Chardonnay- Every bit as outstanding as the ‘Katherine’s’ the ‘Bar-M’ is a truly brilliant wine by superstar winemaker Greg Brewer. Ripe apricot and roasted hazelnuts meld with wild mushroom and earthy undertones on this downright intoxicating nose. The freshness and verve to the wine is outstanding, as the tension, salinity and weight truly entices. The long, buttercream and mineral-driven finish lingers for nearly a minute. Gorgeous in its youth, the ‘Bar-M’ will evolve well for another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 94

2017 Brewer-Clifton ‘Santa Rita Hills’ Chardonnay- Weighing in at 14.5% alcohol, the ‘Santa Rita Hills’ Chardonnay by the talented Greg Brewer was sourced from the 3D, Machado, Acin and Hapgood vineyards. Texturally beautiful, the wine yields great brightness and acidity, as well as weight. Baked apple and vanilla creme brûlée flavors mingle with the earthy and citrus rind undertones on this complex palate. While outstanding now, the 2017 Brewer-Clifton ‘Santa Rita Hills’ Chardonnay will provide drinking enjoyment for another decade, picking up tertiary tones as it ages. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2016 Brewer-Clifton ‘Santa Rita Hills’ Pinot Noir-  The 2016 Brewer-Clifton ‘Santa Rita Hills’ Pinot Noir is an absolutely killer value Pinot Noir by this storied estate first founded in 1996. On the nose this takes on salted Bing cherry tones that collide with shades of blood orange zest, Umami and wild strawberry that all take their shape in the glass. The freshness imparted, as well as the silky texture, really shines here. Bright red cherry preserves and pomegranate seed connect with the damp terroir tones and salted orange zest flavors. While this is outstanding now, the wine will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2016 Brewer-Clifton ‘Machado’ Pinot Noir- Even better than their entry level bottling, the 2016 Brewer-Clifton ‘Machado’ Pinot Noir is a spell-binding new wine from this storied state in the Santa Rita Hills. The ‘Machado Vineyard’ is a 15 acre site that is adjacent to Clos Pepe and immediately behind the Kessler-Haak Vineyard. Planted to Pommard, Merry Edwards, Mount Eden, and 459 clones, the Pinot Noir opens with peat moss and wild blackberry tones that connect with the seaweed and citrus rind aromatics that are all woven together brilliantly in the glass. The palate is lithe, elegant and marvelously textured. Red and dark fruit flavors collide with copious minerals and damp earth undertones, with a beam of salinity that sings through the mid-palate. A complete wine, the 2016 ‘Machado’ will provide an exceedingly long life in the cellar. Drink 2020-2040- 95

2017 Ex Post Facto Syrah- Sourced from a host of sites in the Santa Barbara County, the Syrah shows smoky undertones that mingle with white pepper, blackberry cobbler and suggestions of venison tartare that take shape in the glass. The palate shows a nice combination of verve and viscosity with straightforward black fruit and smoky flavors. Beautiful now, this will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another seven years. Drink 2020-2027- 91

Sleight of Hand Vertical Tasting

A few days ago I was invited to attend a very special Sleight of Hand Vertical Tasting, graciously hosted by Trey Busch. The tasting commemorated Trey’s 20th year of winemaking in grand fashion, as the wines that he shared dated back to the 2000 vintage when he first began his wine journey at Dunham Cellars after the legendary late Eric Dunham. Trey explained his soiree into the world of wine, starting there and moving to Basel Cellars before starting Sleight of Hand with his business partners. We had a chance to try his Sleight of Hand ‘Archimage’ bottling which is their Right Bank style wine, starting with its non-vintage blend up to an exciting barrel sample of their 2018 Archimage Red Wine.

During the tasting a few wines in particular stood out to me. Speaking to Trey, we were both floored by the 2000 Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 91) which is showing marvelously right now and still has a lot of life left. Having recently tried the 2000 Col Solare that was past its prime, the 2000 Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the better wines from this vintage that I have tried over the past several years. Aromatically complex, this shows layers of pretty red fruits with shades of tar, tobacco leaf and citrus rind with lighter stony tones. The palate continues to impress with light wet stone character combining with sour red cherry and lighter wild mushroom tertiary tones. Ironically they sourced from of this wine from Cayuse’s ‘En Cerise Vineyard’ which would account for those lighter wet stone tones.This is wonderfully elegant and should be enjoyed in the near future.

Also quite impressive was the 2001 Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 89) which shows nice Bordelaise tones but is starting to fade a bit. Dark kirsch and tobacco and bell pepper accents mingle with shades of black licorice and damp earthy tones on the palate. This is one to enjoy now.

The wines that I was not surprised by were the thrilling 2013, ‘14 and ‘16 Archimage Red Wines which were all stunning. They have brilliant richness, tension and length. They can definitely be enjoyed now. Talking with production winemaker Keith Johnson he noted that one reason that the wines have such good length was a change in the fermentation process as well as the use of oak. I really like the way that these wines show now. 

We had one somewhat major surprise of the tasting, the 2005 Basel Cellars Syrah (WWB, 92) was an impressive wine sourced mostly from the Lewis Vineyard. The smoky and savory tones really gratified as the wine carried really good weight and acidity. We were all really impressed with this special tasting which was such a treat to commemorate one of the great people in Washington wine, Trey Busch.

2017 Bordeaux

Friends, yesterday I had a chance to visit a great trade tasting put on by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux. While not every producer was able to attend, those that did put on a very strong showing. Some wine writers have already been quite bullish on the 2017 vintage. Yields were down significantly in 2017 compared to 2016 as frost had quite a major impact on crop sizes. Rain and cooler temperatures in September contributed to ripening issues for some producers. Ironically the vintage also saw considerably less rain than usual during summer months, but also less sunshine than most vintages. While things were generally going smoothly for producers, a hail storm in August made for some initial challenges before harvest, lowering yields once again. 

Still, speaking to many of the producers at the event, they were pleased with the results in the bottle. While this vintage may not gain the acclaim of the stunning 2015 and 2016 vintages, 2017 has a lot of promise from what I have tasted. Here are my notes from some of the new 2017 vintage Bordeaux wines.

Blanc: 

2017 Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte Blanc- The 2017 Smith Haut-Lafitte is a head-turning wine that is absolutely singing in its youth and will provide drinking enjoyment for decades to come. Straight out of the gate the wine is beautifully perfumed as the wine shows bright honeysuckle and mango tones giving this an exotic edge aromatically. The palate shows off its silky smooth texture, providing a stunning mouthfeel.  Once on the mouth the wine shows impressive length with an incredibly long finish. Simply put, this is a jaw-dropping Bordeaux Blanc that will cellar well for decades to come Drink 2020-2045- 97

2017 Chateau Bouscaut Blanc- Made from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, the 2017 Chateau Bouscaut Blanc is a gorgeous effort. The tension and minimality of the wine truly shines. On the palate this shows good weight and mouthfeel with bright citrus and orchard fruits flavors. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2017 Domaine De Chevalier Blanc- The 2017 Domaine De Chelvalier Blanc is a gorgeous blend of 70% Sauvignon and 30% Sémillon that was aged for sixteen months before bottling. Right out of the gate the wine feels very fresh and light with wet stone and melon tones. The wine shows vibrant acidity and a wonderful sense of balance, carrying good mid-palate weight. No doubt the 2017 Domaine De Chevalier will be long-lived and is fantastic to savor in its youth. Drink 2020-2030-93

Sauternes:

2017 Chateau Bastor-Lamontage- The 2017 Chateau Bastor-Lamontage is a beautiful showing in this vintage. Right away the wine provides an open texture and a good combination of tension and weight, with medium-bodied candied ginger, vanilla creme brullee and honey with cardamom accents. I can see this cellaring well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2020-2035- 92

2017 Chateau Coutet- The 2017 Chateau Coutet is a beautiful wine that is needing a bit more time in the bottle to gain complexity. Aromatically intense, the wine shows good range from honey and nutmeg infused creme brûlée tones that combine with lighter wet stone and brandy soaked pear aromas that take shape in the glass. Flavors of vanilla cream and butterscotch with apricot jelly accents highlight this gorgeous wine. The palate has great tension and verve, revealing a silky mouthfeel. The exceedingly long finish lingers long on the tongue. Give this beautiful wine a few years in the cellar prior to enjoying. Drink 2022-2040- 94

2017 Chateau Guiraud- The 2017 Chateau Guiraud is a stunning effort from this storied house in Sauternes. Immediately providing appeal, the wine shows good verve and tension with bright creme brûlée, orange marmalade and vanilla bean flavors.The long finish lingers.  Outstanding in its youth, this will cellar well for decades. Try to give this a few more years if you can. Drink 2022-2040- 94

Rouge:

2017 Chateau Phelan Segur- The 2017 Chateau Phelan-Segur is a fantastic effort from this vintage. The wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), and 34% Merlot with 1% Cabernet Franc. On the nose this takes on wonderful dark fruit tones with red bell pepper and accents of menthol that all mingle together in the glass. The palate has a good sense of balance and a soft mouthfeel. Light tannins line the core of dark fruits with pipe tobacco and red bell pepper tones. This is very elegant even in its youth, as there 2017 Chateau Phelan-Segur will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another fifteen years. Drink 2024-2040- 92

2017 Chateau Grand Puy-Lacoste- Chateau Grand Puy-Lacoste is one of the older houses in the Medoc.  The final wine is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Merlot which were sourced from vines that average roughly forty years of age. The wine has immediate appeal as it is dense and gratifying once in the mouth. The wine has really good weight, revealing creosote tones next to the blackberry and damp earthy accents that all mingle together in the glass. This is truly fantastic stuff even in its youth and will cellar well for the next two decades. Try to give this at last a few more years to develop. Drink 2024- 2040- 92

2017 Chateau Clerc Millon- The 2017 Chateau Clerc Millon is an awesome effort from this storied house. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot and 1% Carmenère, right away the wine shows a good combination of weight and freshness, unveiling medium to full bodied blackberry, tar, sandalwood and mocha flavors.The lovely herbal undertones with light tannins lead to a long and gratifying finish. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the enact twenty years. Drink 2024-2040- 93

2017 Chateau D'Armailhac- The 2017 Chateau D’Armailhac shows beautifully already in its youth. A compelling blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, the wine really nice herbal tones with tar and black licorice on this expressive nose. Once on the mouth the wine shows good salinity and tension with medium bodied dark fruit and tar flavors. The wine maintains a good sense of balance and a soft mouthfeel throughout. I can see this needing a bit more time to come together. Drink 2025-2040- 92

2017 Chateau Beychevelle - The 2017 Chateau Beychevelle is a stunning new wine from this storied house. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), and supplemented by Merlot (45%), Petit Verdot (4%) and Cabernet Franc (1%) This is a massive success for this storied house. The wine has a marvelously elegant nose with red bell pepper undertones that meld with cassis and blackberry cobbler. The senes of balance and weight is outstanding as the wine unveils a deep core of dark fruits and light tannins that connect with the creosote and Turkish coffee tones. The wine has marvelously length with great tension that runs through the core of the wine. This is one of the more impressive efforts from this house, as the 2017 Beychevelle will be exceedingly long-lived. Drink 2025-2050- 95

2017 Chateau Lascombes- The 2017 Chateau Lascombes is a fabulous showing in this vintage Right away the wine unveils a gorgeous nose with red rose petals that combine with copious dark fruits and chocolate, alongside herbal undertones on this intoxicatingly good bouquet. The palate is dense and fleshy revealing a great combination of weight and tension. A light salinity races through the blackberry cobbler mocha, anise and chocolate pie flavors. Fantastic now, the wine will continue to evolve for decades. If enjoying in its youth, give this a very long decant. Drink 2025- 2040- 94

2017 Chateau Giscours- The 2017 Chateau Giscours is an excellent effort in this vintage. The wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (70%) with smaller portions Merlot and Petit Verdot. The wine has good balance with medium bodied red and dark fruit flavors on the nose. A light dusting of salinity follows as the wine is moderately tannic, revealing forward blackberry cobbler and coffee ground flavors. Drink 2024- 2040- 92

2017 Chateau Gazin- The 2017 Chateau Gazin is already quite forward, as the wine shows a ripe core of dark fruits with Turkish coffee and milk chocolate accents. While this is not the most complex, the wine shows beautifully now and will continue to evolve well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2021-2036- 91

2017 Chateau Clinet- The 2017 Chateau Clinet is a simply magical effort from this storied house on the right bank. Almost entirely Merlot (92%) with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2017 Chateau Clinet opens with wonderful boysenberry preserve, mocha, tar and anise aromas that all march in harmony in the glass. Highly poised and marvelously balanced, the wine has a silky mouthfeel and unveils deep cassis, graphite and mocha flavors with lighter bell pepper undertones. The wine has a gorgeous finish with anise, minerals and a light dusting of cocoa powder. The 2017 Chateau Clinet is a marvelous effort that will evolve well for decades. Give this at least two more years of bottle age prior to enjoying. Drink 2022-2045- 94

2017 Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte- The 2017 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte is a thrilling wine that has already evolved well in its youth. The wine is a scintillating blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot, with smaller parts Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The wine shows great weight and verve, offering some immediate appeal. Rich dark fruits combine with chocolate covered espresso bean flavors and moderate tannins entice on the palate. The elegance and mouthfeel of this wine is scintillating. The wine finishes strong with black fruits and minerals, showing excellent length. Fantastic already, the 2017 Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte will cellar well for decades to come. Drink 2024-2055- 95

2017 Domaine De Chevalier- The 2017 Domaine De Chevalier is a really good effort from this vintage.A compelling blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot, the wine was aged in 35% new French oak prior to bottling. The wine has good richness and a light vein of tension that runs through the core of oak fruits and chocolate covered espresso bean flavors. While not highly nuanced, this provides some immediate appeal. The long finish entices. Drink 2024- 2040-93

Vina Almaviva

It brings me great pleasure to write about one of the great wines of the world out of Chile. In 1997, Baroness Philippine de Rothschild, Chairman of the Advisory Board of Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA, and Eduardo Guilisasti Tagle, Chairman of Viña Concha y Toro S.A., sealed a partnership agreement with a view to create an exceptional Franco-Chilean wine called Almaviva. Produced under the joint technical supervision of both partners, the first vintage had great acclaim upon its launch in 1998. The rest has been history. I have been drawn to these wines since I first tried them a decade ago. For those who have never had the cache to try Vina Almaviva, you are in for a great treat.

These wines are dense and massive, needing a lot of air prior to drinking. Like many great modern wines of the world, they are approachable in their youth after a long decant. I recently had the chance to try the two latest vintages of Vina Almaviva and was absolutely blown away with the quality of the wines. They are both massive and captivating wines with great terroir and tension. Here are my reviews of the 2016 and 2017 Vina Almaviva wines. 

2016 Vina Almaviva Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 Almaviva Cabernet Sauvignon is a seductive, dense and chewy effort from this historic project in Chile. Aromatically a bit reticent and needing some time in the decanter to unwind, this beautiful Cabernet slowly unveils exotic spice aromas that parade with suggestions of creme de cassis, green bell pepper, and huckleberry pie. The silky mouthfeel really entices and captivates the senses. While obviously rich, this has a brightness and good sense of minerality that runs through the core of intense dark fruit, milk chocolate, pipe tobacco and dried herbal flavors that all push the envelope in intensity and decadence. While a delight to enjoy at this stage in its development, the 2016 Almaviva Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for the next two decades. Drink 2020-2038- 96

2017 Vina Almaviva Caberent Sauvignon- The 2017 Almaviva is a show-stopping effort from this storied Chilean Estate. This is a compelling blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Carménère with the remainder Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. As this begins to unwind in the glass it releases captivating nuances of crème de cassis and blackberry pie which are joined by red bell pepper, green olive tapenade and Turkish coffee that all come together to provide the stunning aromatics.  On the palate this full-bodied red is possesses a gorgeous silky, seamless quality that is backed by a multi-layered texture that leaves behind flavors of ripe dark fruits, mocha, creosote and black olive that all leave a lasting impression. Elegant, yet rich and sophisticated, the 2017 Almaviva is gorgeous now and should also have a sensational future ahead of it. Drink 2020-2040- 97

MacRostie Winery

One of the great stops in the Russian River Valley, MacRostie was founded by fellow Whitman College graduate, Steve MacRostie. Speaking to Steve a few years back, I was enchanted by his vision to craft terroir-driven Chardonnay and Pinot Noir many years before most people were following that model in Sonoma. Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen has a illustrious history in the wine industry having an undergraduate degree from the University of Colorado at Boulder. She has worked in the enology laboratory of Jackson Family Wines before working at Clos du Bois, Oyster Bay as well as Sonoma-Cutrer. She has a really good set of new release wines.

MacRostie sources from some great vineyards including Dutton Ranch, Sangiacomo, Martinelli and Bacigalupi, and from Steve’s Wildcat Mountain Vineyard which he purchased decades back. I have always enjoyed wines from the ‘Wildcat Mountain Vineyard’ and this year’s rendition the 2016 MacRostie ‘Wildcat Mountain’ Chardonnay (WWB, 93) has marvelous range and a silky texture. This is one for the cellar. I was totally blown away with the 2016 MacRostie ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) which shows incredible texture and plush red fruits. Learn more about this great Sonoma winery at https://macrostiewinery.com/ Here are the great new wines by MacRostie.

2017 MacRostie ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay - The 2017 ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay is a seriously good new wine by MacRostie. On the nose this yields bright lemon cream with Pink Lady apple and shades of wild mushroom that round out the aromatics. The palate shows good freshness and weight, with bright lemon oil, Mandarin orange zest and a seriously good saline steak that runs through the wine. Finishing strong with citrus cream and minerals, this excellent effort is best savored over the next seven years. Drink 2019-2025- 91 

2018 MacRostie ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay- Right away you are allured by the bright lemon zest aromas that meld with shades of white raisin and nectarine that take shape in the glass. Soft and round, with a generous mouthfeel, this shows an enticing texture, as the wine unveils green apple, honeydew melon and lemon cream flavors that mingle with minerals on the palate. Fresh, lively and very good in its youth, the 2017 ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay will cellar well over the next seven plus years. Drink 2019-2026- 91

2016 MacRostie ‘Wildcat Mountain’ Chardonnay- The 2016 ‘Wildcat Mountain’ Chardonnay by MacRostie. Golden in the glass, the wine opens with saline drenched roasted hazelnuts with lemon oil and vanilla cream that all mingle nicely in the glass. The palate combines great weight and freshness with hugely satisfying lemon creme brûlée flavors with green apple accents and wild mushroom. The mid-palate range, salinity and minerality really satisfies. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2016 MacRostie ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir- A seriously good value, the ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir by MacRostie screams class with its bright red fruit and cola with citrus rind aromatics that all impress. The palate is plush, delivering both a silky texture and a lithe mouthfeel. Plush and dense red fruits dance with blood orange and kumquat flavors with a kiss of cola. Delicious now, enjoy this over the next eight plus years. Drink 2019-2025- 93

2017 MacRostie ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 MacRostie ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir opens with bright strawberry and cran-pomegranate with cola accents on this expressive nose. The palate has good freshness and a lovely dose of minerality that sits alongside the rather forward red fruit flavors. The plush texture really entices. Drink 2019-2025- 91

2016 MacRostie ‘Thale’s Vineyard’ PInot Noir- The ‘Thale’s Vineyard’ is located in the Russian River Valley AVA. The wine shows good ripeness on the nose with bright bing cherry and raspberry cordial aromatics that connect with a hint of cola. The palate is plush, delivering medium-bodied red fruit and citrus rind flavors. Forward and delicious now, this will continue to evolve well over the next seven plus years. Drink 2019-2026- 91

Lagana Cellars

Some really good talents have come out of Walla Walla Community College’s enology and viticulture program. The list of talents continues to rise as Jason Fox is one of them that started his own Lagana Cellars in 2013. Lagana sources from some great vineyards including Sagemoor and Seven Hills vineyards. Jason is earnest, frank and highly knowledgable as I have enjoyed my time chatting with him at his downtown Walla Walla tasting room. Jason partners with Todd Bernave in Lagana Cellars winemaking as Todd had a career in fine art for fifteen years prior to getting into winemaking.

They both have done a really good job with crafting mineral-driven white wines and I thoroughly enjoyed the 2018 Lagana Cellars ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 90) which has really good freshness and a long finish. Even better was his 2017 Nox Perpetua Carmenere (WWB, 91) which shows great varietal typicity and downright delicious chocolate tones. Learn more about these wines at http://www.laganacellars.com Here are the new wine releases by Lagana Cellars. 

2018 Lagana Cellars ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Needing a bit of air to get started, the 2018 ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Chardonnay shows off bright lemon zest with vanilla cream on the nose. The palate has good freshness and tension that runs through the core of the wine, but the real treat is the long finish that lingers on the tongue. While this is on the lighter side, the sense of balance is excellent. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2017 Lagana Cellars ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah- Showing off its inky core, the ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah opens with layers of black fruits woven together with tar, anise and shades of smoked pork shoulder on this expressive nose. The palate has good freshness revealing medium-bodied black fruit and black tea flavors. What this doesn’t possess in body it makes up for it in verve. Drink this finesse-driven Syrah over the next seven years. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2017 Lagana Cellars ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc- The 2017 ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc is admittedly the first of its kind that I have sampled from this newly planted vineyard. The herbal tones entice aromatically with Christmas spice cake and shades of black licorice that collide with the core of dark fruits that all take shape in the glass. The palate shows a bright beam of acidity that connects with the medium-bodied dark fruit, tar and sour cherry flavors. Novel and showing good brightness, this lightly tannic, somm-friendly effort will cellar well over the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 90

2017 Lagana Cellars ‘J&S Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Located in the Walla Walla Valley, the J&S Vineyard is a 4 acre parcel not far from the Washington/Oregon border. The nose is very pretty with red rose petals that are lined with shades of boysenberry cordial and dried sage that all meld in the glass. The mouthfeel and bright acidity is excellent as the wine unveils medium-bodied dark fruit flavors with herbal undertones. Drink 2020-2027- 90

2017 Nox Perpetua Carmenere- Sourced from the J&S Vineyard, the wine has 15% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. You have to admire the bright red bell pepper, and red fruits that the wine delivers. The silky texture is outstanding as a deep core of blackberry compote and black licorice meld with dark chocolate covered espresso bean flavors. This is really good stuff. Drink 2020-2030- 91

The Walls

One relatively new wine project out of Walla Walla, The Walls was founded by former software executive, Mike Martin. Mike has been an exceedingly busy man of late, as he recently purchased the Rockgarden Estate Vineyard from Buty Winery to add to his portfolio. The Walls is actually named after a Walla Walla nickname for the local Washington State Penitentiary, The Walls imparts aptly playful names for their wines, like the ‘Concrete Mama’ referring to both the storage of the wine along with the housing for penitentiary inmates. It was recently announced that superstar winemaker, Todd Alexander, will be the new consulting winemaker for The Walls who also recently opened a new winery on Pine St. in downtown Walla Walla.  Todd brings a wealth of experience to The Walls and I am very excited to see what he does with this program as he has been crafting some stunning, one of a kind, new wines for Force Majeure.

The new 2017 The Walls ‘MacAndrew’ Chardonnay (WWB, 91) has terrific poise and balance, as this cool site wine would be great for a warm summer day. I really enjoyed the 2017 The Walls ‘Concrete Mama’ Syrah (WWB, 92) which has good freshness and lift, with a plush texture and lovely stony undertones. Learn more about these great wines at https://www.thewallsvineyards.com Here are the new releases by The Walls.

2017 The Walls ‘Les Jeunes Vignes’ Chardonnay- Showing off a bright color, the Les Jeunes Vignes’ opens with light white peach and damp stone aromas that take shape in the glass. The polished mouthfeel and soft texture really entices here as ripe orchard fruits and lighter wet stone and melon tones come together beautifully on the palate. This is really well-done. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2018 The Walls ‘Martin’s Gold’ Chardonnay- Sourced from the French Creek Vineyard in the Yakima Valley, the ‘Martin’s Gold’ opens with pretty honeysuckle with honeydew melon and baked apple aromas that take shape in the glass. The palate is soft, delivering a wonderful freshness and texture. Bright lemon cream and vanilla creme brûlée flavors collide with minerals and ripe melon undertones. This is fantastic stuff now that will evolve well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2017 The Walls ‘MacAndrew’ Chardonnay- The 2017 ‘MacAndrew’ Chardonnay is sourced from the White Salmon Vineyard in the Columbia Gorge. Lithe and showing good minerality, the wine reveals bright green apple, starfruit and vanilla cream flavors. Enjoy this in the short-term while the brightness remains. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2017 The Walls ‘River Rock Vineyard’ Grenache- Sourced from the ‘River Rock Vineyard’ in The Rocks of Milton-Freewater AVA, this Grenache combines smoky and lighter wet stone tones with bright red fruits that march in line in the glass. The freshness is very nice as medium-bodied red fruit flavors mingle with orange rind and a hint of Umami on the palate. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2017 The Walls ‘Concrete Mama’ Syrah- Sourced from the ‘River Rock Vineyard’ this shows good aromatic range form bacon fat to tar and umami that collide with the dense core of dark fruits that take shape in the glass. The palate is plush, giving off a silky texture and bright, mouth-watering acidity. Blackberry jelly with creosote and seaweed flavors mingle with the lighter stony undertones on the palate. Enjoy this over the next decade. Drink 2020-2029- 92

2017 The Walls ‘The Ramparts’ Red Wine- A blend of 40% Grenache, and 40% Mourvedre with small portions Counoise and Viognier, ‘The Ramparts’ shows nice scorched earth and herbal tones that collide with a good core of dark fruits on the nose. The palate shows a silky texture and plush mouthfeel with straightforward dark fruit and cocoa powder flavors. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2017 The Walls ‘Stanley Groovy’ Red Wine- A kitchen sink blend of six Red Mountain sourced varietals, including 28% Touriga Nacional, the inky colored ‘Stanley Groovy’ opens with a bouquet of tar and smoky tones that meld with the rich black fruit on the nose. The palate is dense and unveils a soft mouthfeel. Black Forest cake and shades of tar with smoked brisket all combine marvelously on the palate. Fantastic now, this highly novel Washington red wine will cellar well for the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2017 The Walls ‘Curiositas’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Deeply perfumed, the ‘Curiositas’ shows blackberry compote and smoky tones that meld with chocolate cake aromatics that play together in the glass. Soft and generous on the mouth, the wine delivers medium to full-bodied dark fruit flavors with violet, sagebrush and smoky undertones. Enjoy this excellent Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon over the next decade.  Drink 2020-2030- 91

Fullerton Wines

Fullerton Wines was founded in 2012 by Eric and Susanne Fullerton. Head winemaker Alex Fullerton heads the 4500 case production winery, crafting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Alex has previously worked as Penner-Ash, as well as Drylands in New Zealand. He began making his own wine out of his garage in 2011. The tasting room is located in Beaverton, only about 40 minutes from Portland.

I recently had the chance to sample the range of new wines by Fullerton and they were very good across the board. The 2017 Fullerton ‘Luxe’ Chardonnay (WWB, 92) has great tension and a lovely mouthfeel. This is one for the cellar. 2014 Fullerton ‘Fir Crest Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 92) has wonderful range and freshness, as this has great cellaring potential as well. Learn more about these wines at http://www.fullertonwines.com Here are the great new releases from Fullerton Wines:

2017 Fullerton ‘Five Faces’ Chardonnay- The ‘Five Faces’ Chardonnay is a beautiful bottling by Fullerton. Ripe banana and brioche fill the nose. The freshness imparted its marvelous, as is soft mouthfeel and bright acidity that all leads to the exceedingly long finish. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2017 Fullerton Wines ‘Lux’ Chardonnay- The ‘Lux’ Chardonnay is a barrel selection wine made by Fullerton comprised of Wente, Davis 108, Dijon 76, 95 and 96 clones. The wine opens with suggestions of lemon zest with Challah bread and ripe pear that all mingle on the nose. The soft texture is enticing as ripe orchard fruits mingle with minerals, vanilla cream and shades of baked apple on the palate. While this is beautiful now, the ‘Lux’ will continue to evolve over the next decade or more, picking up tertiary notes. Drink 2020-2029- 92

2017 Fullerton ‘Three Otters’ Pinot Noir- This translucent colored Pinot Noir shows lighter guava and citrus rind tones with shades of red cherry candy on this enticing nose. The freshness here is excellent as light to medium bodied red fruits collide with minerals on the palate. This is really a good value. Drink 2020-2023- 89

2017 Fullerton ‘Bjornson Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Bjornson Vineyard’ is located in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, as the vineyard is dramatically set with views of Mt. Hood in the background. Ripe red and dark fruits mingle with shades of clove and cinnamon on the nose. The freshness and sense of balance is wonderful as citrus rind and red fruits mingle with the bright sense of minerality. I can see this cellaring well for another decade. Drink 2020-2029- 91

2017 Fullerton ‘Momtazi Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Oregon wine pioneer Moe Momtazi planted his vineyard in the steeply sloped region that has great influence from the Van Duzer Corridor, as the vineyard is intriguingly set on both marine sedimentary soils and volcanic soils. The stony tones from the volcanic earth really entice on the nose alongside the lighter black fruit tones. While the palate comes off a bit lean, the sense of tension in the wine is really nice, as light red and dark fruits mingle with minerals, saline drenched damp earth and a dusting of volcanic stone. Drink 2020-2029- 91

2017 Fullerton ‘Fir Crest Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Located in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, the ‘Fir Crest Vineyard’ is set on sedimentary Willakenzie soils that the AVA has become quite famous for. The light saline tones are beautiful and mingle with the bright red fruits and citrus blossom tones on the nose. The palate has really nice fleshy red fruits that dance with the lovely peat moss and damp terroir tones. This is fantastic stuff now but will continue to evolve for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2029- 92

2017 Fullerton ‘Bella Vida Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Bella Vida Vineyard,’ set on volcanic soils, is located in the Dundee Hills AVA and is plated to Pinot Noir Dijon clones 113, 667 and 777. The earthy tones really excite with forest floor and volcanic earth that mingle with the lighter wild blackberry tones that all mingle nicely in the glass. On the palate this shows excellent verve, with light to medium bodied dark cherry, wild blackberry and damp earth flavors. Drink 2020-2029- 91

2017 Fullerton ‘Lichtenwalter VIneyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Lichtenwalter Vineyard’ is set in the Ribbon Ridge AVA as this wine is planted to Pinot Noir Dijon clone 777. You are drawn to the damp earth and peat moss tones aromatically that mingle with suggestions of cran-pomegrnate on the expressive nose. The balance and poise is really nice, as the creamy, ripe texture connects with the ripe red fruits on the palate. This is excellent now but this beautiful wine will continue to evolve well for the next decade. Drink 2020-2029- 92

2017 Fullerton ‘Alderbrook Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Chehalem Mountains AVA, this limited production single vineyard bottling opens with delicate red fruits that collide with the earthy tones on the nose. The palate comes off a bit lean and linear with a bright sense of minerality. Drink 2020-2025- 89

The Walls Vineyards Acquires The Rockgarden Estate Vineyard

There is some big news out of Walla Walla today that we want to share. Since 2000 the Rockgarden Estate Vineyard has been an integral part of Buty Winery’s wine program. Today Mike Martin of The Walls has officially acquired this 10-acre Rockgarden Vineyard located in in The Rocks District of Milton Freewater AVA.

Owner Mike Martin states, “The addition of an estate vineyard, and having Todd consulting on all of our winemaking and viticultural practices, gives us an opportunity to build on the great work we've done and take our winemaking to a whole new level. It has always been our goal to craft wines that are indicative of the place where they are grown, and owning our own vineyards allows us to further this objective.” In addition to the Rockgarden vineyard, Mike also owns 20 acres of unplanted Rocks District AVA land, which he plans to begin planting in 2021. The Walls will continue to produce a small selection of wines from some ultra-premium Rocks District vineyards with whom it has partnered since 2016.

The press release also officially notes some exciting news that I have kept quiet for a few months -- that superstar winemaker, Todd Alexander, has become The Walls consulting winemaker. This will be a very exciting prospect to see how Todd Alexander makes his mark on these wines in years to come.

2017 Vintage Port

The latest vintage Port releases suggest that there is a lot for collectors to look forward to. Some are stating that 2017 could shape up to be a legendary vintage. 2017 follows up the exciting 2016 releases and intriguingly this is the first time since the 1880s that Port producers have done back to back vintages. Many are saying that the wines are quite different than those produced in 2016 and the growing seasons were extremely divergent.

2017 was quite arid compared to 2016 and the consistent heat led to an extremely early harvest. In fact, by the time that producers were done in 2017, they had just started in 2016. After some hot weather in June which affected some of the clusters, July cooled down and August was also quite moderate in temperature. Harvest was extremely early in 2017 which ironically negated some of the growers’ summer holiday travels. 

The new Port release I tried were sensational. The 2017 Ferreira ‘Quinta do Porto’ Vintage Port (WWB, 96) is dense and shows incredible poise and class. This is one of the best I have ever had from this house. Even better is the scintillating 2017 Dow Vintage Port (WWB, 98) which is primarily Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, showing impeccable balance and purity. This beautiful wine is nowhere near ready but will be singing in five plus years. Here are my tasting notes from the new vintage Port releases that I sampled.

2017 Ferreira ‘Quinta do Porto’ Vintage Port-The 2017 Ferreira ‘Quinta do Porto’ is a single quinta vintage port, made from this historic house that dates back to 1771. Ferreira has created magical new wine sourced from their 24 hectare estate, this inky colored vintage Port show dense wild blackberry coulis and milk chocolate aromas that meld with shades of black licorice, lavender and exotic spices that all take shape in the glass. Viscous and intense, the wine shows an incredible power and concentration yet is highly poised and balanced. Gorgeous layers of deep black and red fruits mingle with shades of cinnamon and clove, Asian spices, tar  and Black Forest cake on this outstanding palate. Full-bodied and full of depth, this is a mere infant now and will require some patience for several years. Drink 2026-2050- 96

2017 Croft Vintage Port- The 2017 Croft Vintage Port was aged for 20 months in French oak before bottling, as it weighs in at 97 g/l residual sugar. Largely sourced from the south-facing Quinta da Roêda estate, the wine begins with deep tar, leather, lavender and exotic spices that mingle with the intense black fruits on this expressive bouquet. The balance and silky texture really entices. While not massive, this offers rich dark fruits on the palate, with Christmas spicecake, Turkish coffee and molasses flavors that all sing in harmony on the palate. Give this beautiful wine at least five years before uncorking. Drink 2025-2050- 95

2017 Dow’s Vintage Port- The 2017 Dow’s Vintage Port is crafted from largely Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca (80%) grapes with a fair portion of Alicante Bouchet (8%) blended in. The nose is intoxicating with its blueberry cobbler, mocha, tar, lavender and anise aromas that all meld together in the glass. The stunning bouquet brings you back to the glass for more hedonistic delight. The sense of balance and purity of fruit is truly amazing, as this pushes perfection with its dark chocolate shaving, blueberry liquor, espresso bean and shades of lavender puree. Exotic, and simply captivating, the wine has a seamless quality and a supple texture that truly shines. While a delight to savor now, this beautiful wine really needs at least five more years in the cellar to come into its own. Drink 2026-2060- 98

Ambassador Wines of Washington

Founded in 2004, Ambassador sources from their estate vineyard on Red Mountain. Under the expert eye of Dick Boushey, the Ambassador Vineyard is a warm site planted to a host of varietals, from Grenache to Cabernet Sauvignon. Ambassador has a tasting room in the Woodinville Warehouse District which is a wonderful spot to try their awesome range of wines. 

Ambassador makes a killer Rose and I absolutely loved their 2018 Ambassador Rose (WWB, 91) shows off a fleshy texture and wonderful vibrant feel. This is a beautiful wine to enjoy now. I loved the 2016 Ambassador ‘Estate’ Grenache (WWB, 91) which also is marvelously textured and has really pretty red fruits with earthy undertones. The wine is delicious now and will cellar well for at least another six years. Learn more about this great lineup of wines at http://www.ambassadorwinery.com Here are the new wines by Ambassador Wines of Washington

2018 Ambassador Wines of Washington Rose- Made from estate fruit, the 2018 Rose by Ambassador shows a pretty salmon hue and opens with a bouquet of red currant with ripe strawberry and citrus rind accents that fill the nose. Bright, showing a wonderful texture and sense of minerality, the wine unveils a great combination of weight and tension once in the mouth. Seriously delicious with its red fruits, citrus tones and salinity, the 2018 Ambassador Rose is exceedingly difficult to put down in its youth. Drink 2019-2023- 91

2018 Ambassador Wines of Washington ‘Boushey Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc- sourced from this esteemed vineyard in the Yakima Valley, this starts off with intense gooseberry with shades of kiwi and green apple aromatics that all collide in the glass. The palate shows a good brightness, with lovely minerals that mingle with lighter Gravenstein apple and underripe melon flavors. Enjoy this in its youth. Drink 2019-2023- 89

2016 Ambassador Wines of Washington Grenache- Just a hint of Petit Verdot (4%) is blended in as this opens with pretty cranberry, red cherry and orange rind aromas that all mingle in the glass. The silky texture is beautiful as the wine unveils ripe red cherry, and guava puree with suggestions of sweet pipe tobacco. This is delicious stuff that will cellar well over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2019-2026- 91

2016 Ambassador Wines of Washington Merlot- This beautiful new wine begins with aromas of black cherry cordial and baking spices that mingle with shades of chocolate on this expressive nose. The silky texture entices as silky smooth red and dark fruit flavors collide with cocoa powder and minerals. This is seriously good stuff. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2016 Ambassador Wines of Washington ‘Diplomat’ Red Wine- The ‘Diplomat’ is a silky blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon with equal parts Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. You can catch a glimpse of the Syrah on the nose with red and dark fruits mingling with sagebrush and chocolate tones. Soft and generous on the palate, there is good freshness and richness with minerals as the wine delivers blackberry pie and chocolate flavors that collide with minerals and black tea flavors. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2016 Ambassador Wines of Washington ‘Envoy’ Red Wine- The ‘Envoy’ is a great blend of Merlot (76%) with smaller portions Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Red bell pepper and red cherry mingle with baking spices on the nose. Soft and generous on the mouth, the wine delivers bright red and dark fruit flavors with chocolate and sagebrush tones on the palate. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2016 Ambassador Wines of Washington Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 Ambassador Wines of Washington Cabernet Sauvignon begins with ripe dark fruits with baking spices and shades of blackberry jam that all mingle together on the nose. The palate has good balance and freshness, delivering a silky texture and copious dark fruits that collide with chocolate and sagebrush flavors. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2016 Ambassador Wines of Washington ‘Plentipotentiary’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 Ambassador Wines of Washington ‘Plentipotentiary’ Cabernet Sauvignon has a relatively high percentage of Petit Verdot (17%) blended in. The green tones from that varietal nicely complement the dark fruits and chocolate aromatics which all come together nicely in the glass. The dense palate really entices, as does the soft mouthfeel. A delight to savor now, this beautiful wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2016 Ambassador Wines of Washington Malbec- This 100% varietal bottling begins with gorgeous violets and black tea aromas that mingle with shades of blueberry compote on this expressive nose. The palate is dense and plush, delivering a soft and gratifying mouthfeel. Black tea, exotic spices and blueberry pie flavors all flourish together. Enjoy this fantastic wine over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2016 Ambassador Wines of Washington Syrah- Intriguingly this Syrah has 8% Malbec and 8% Cabernet Franc blended in with a hint of Petit Verdot as well. I can catch just a hint of Malbec on the nose with the lighter violets that mingle with copious dark fruits and chocolate on the nose. The palate is quite forward, delivering a nice mouthfeel and intense chocolate and blackberry pie flavors. Drink 2019-2026- 90

2016 Ambassador Wines of Washington ‘Plentipotentiary’ Syrah- Really a Provence style red wine, this has 25% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. Shades of Black Forest Cake and cigar ash fill the nose. The palate is delightful and soft, unveiling ripe black tea, Asian spices and mocha flavors. Drink 2019-2026- 90

Washington Wine Blog Critic’s Choice of Washington 2020

Friends,

We have nothing short of a massive announcement today. On Saturday I spoke with Christophe Baron about our Washington Wine Blog Critic’s Choice of Washington experience. While Christophe cannot physically be at our event, we are incredibly honored to be sharing the wines of Cayuse Vineyards for our very special Washington wine experience. Cayuse Vineyards is our 2019 Washington Wine Blog Winery of the Year and we are absolutely thrilled to share these incredible wines with our patrons. We can’t wait to see you all at our event in February!

If you haven’t purchased your tickets to the event, please follow the link: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/washington-wine-blog-critics-choice-of-washington-2020-tickets-86828631775

Sojourn Cellars

Sojourn CeOn a dark December afternoon I migrated downtown Seattle to visit with one of Sonoma’s outstanding winemakers, Eric Bradley. For about an hour we traded industry stories and he particularly amused me with his work under Sonoma legend Dick Arrowood. We both traded stories about the best wines the we tried all year. Eric mentioned that the best wine he had all year was the 1973 Monte Real Rioja. “That blew my mind. Older Rioja wines have the acidity to give them tension that holds. They can be difficult to drink when they are young but once the tannins are in balance with the acidity it is like a symphony.” I love older Rioja as well and described some of my favorite older Tondonia bottles.

Sojourn Cellars was founded in 2001 as a partnership between two tennis buddies who discovered a mutual passion for great wine. At Sojourn Craig and Ellen Haserot work together with winemaker Erich Bradley, the former winemaker at Arrowood Winery in Sonoma. A native of Palo Alto, California, Erich has a degree in bio-chemistry from the esteemed University of Chicago and a degree in Philosophy and Modern European Intellectual History from the University of California at Irvine. Eric has crafted some consistently good Pinot Noir and Chardonnay over the past several years.

Erich has been mentored by eminent winemakers Arrowood and David Ramey and sources his wines from some fantastic California vineyards, including Gap’s Crown Vineyard and the Durell Vineyard. The new releases by Sojourn were beautiful across the board. Look to the 2018 Sojourn ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 93) which has great terroir and range from this exciting new vintage in the Sonoma Coast. I really enjoyed the 2017 Sojourn Cellars ‘Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 93) which has wonderful black fruits with chocolate tones and a good level of acidity to hold the wine. This beautiful wine will cellar well for at least another fifteen years. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.sojourncellars.com Here are the great new wines by Sojourn Cellars.

2018 Sojourn Cellars ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay was aged in 30% new French oak before bottling. The texture is gorgeous here as the wine leads with bright creme brûlée and full-bodied orchard fruit flavors with Challah bread and baking spice undertones. This is fantastic stuff to enjoy in its youth and will develop well for another decade. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2018 Sojourn Cellars ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Chardonnay is another gorgeous release by Sojourn Cellars,. The wine utilizes Clone 95 and Went Clones as the wine was aged in 30% new French oak before bottling. The wine begins with aromas of sourdough bread and shades of kumquat zest and clove which find their way in the glass. The palate has marvelous texture and mouthfeel, leading to full-bodied apple and lemon cream flavors. The long finish lingers, as this shows some marvelous length. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2018 Sojourn Cellars ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 Sojourn Cellars ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir was aged in 50% new French oak before bottling. The wine is declassified fruit from a host of great Sonoma Coast Vineyards. The wine has a soft texture with medium-bpdied and bright red fruits, cola and citrus rind accents on the palate. Delightful now, this will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2018 Sojourn Cellars ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was aged for 50% new French oak before bottling. Cran-pomegranate and citrus rind come together with baking spices on the nose. A bright beam of salinity races through the mid-palate, creating gobs of mouth-watering acidity. Gorgeous now, this will evolve well for at least fifteen years. Drink 2020-2035- 94

2018 Sojourn Cellars ‘Rodgers Creek Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Rodgers Creek Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a beautiful new wine. The aromatics show lovely cola and a dusting of white pepper with shades of black truffle. The freshness and verve on the mid-palate is wonderful as there is a light salinity that connects with blood orange zest, wild mushroom and ripe red fruits. Drink 2019-2035- 93

2018 Sojourn Cellars ‘Walala Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Walala Vineyard’ which is just inland from the Pacific Ocean, the wine shows off salted red cherry with shades of pomengranate seed and cola which take shape in the glass. The palate is plush, showing a lovely texture and intense red fruit flavors with a long finish. The mouth-watering acidity and brightness of the wine is really good. Drink 2019-2035- 93

2018 Sojourn Cellars ‘Gap’s Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from clone 115, 667 and 828, this wine was first made in 2007. The nose is seductive with intense red and black fruits with cola accents in this expressive nose. Soft, round and generous this shows fantastic length, acidity and richness on the palate. The range on the mid-palate is gorgeous ranging from wild mushroom, to salted meats and bright red fruits that connect with cola and citrus zest. This is a complete Pinot Noir. Drink 2019-2038- 94

2017 Sojourn Cellars ‘Home Ranch Cuvee’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Home Ranch Cuvee’ Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in 60% new French oak before bottling. A dense core of dark fruits greet you with shades of tar, graphite and dark chocolate shavings that all come together in the glass. The soft texture greets you with with good freshness and bright acidity that compliments the intense blackberry pie, black tea, exotic spice and chocolate fudge flavors. Give this another year in the bottle before enjoying. Drink 2020-2035- 92

2017 Sojourn Cellars ‘Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a outstanding new wine from the talented Eric Bradley. On the nose this shows off deep creme de cassis, mocha and tar aromas that take shape in the glass. The palate is plush showing off its silky texture and marvelous mouthfeel. Toasty oak wraps around a deep core of dark fruits with a chocolate and espresso bean edge. Fantastic now, this will cellar well for at least another fifteen years. Drink 2020-2035- 93

Columbia Crest ‘Walter Clore Private Reserve’ Red Wine Vertical Tasting

One of the great value wine bottlings in Washington, Columbia Crest named their top red wine blend after eminent Washington wine pioneer, Walter Clore. Born in 1911, Walter Clore moved to Washington, attending Washington State University (WSU) to study horticulture. He and his wife Irene, arrived in Pullman with only $5 in their pockets. In 1937, he was hired as the fourth faculty member to staff the WSU Irrigated Agriculture Research Extension Center in Prosser, WA and began work with small fruits and vegetables, including grapes. Dr. Clore would stay there for another forty years, studying how to best cultivate wine varietals. 

Over the years I can remember some special times with the ‘Walter Clore Private Reserve.’ There was a great dinner I had in Palm Springs back in 2007 when I ordered a bottle of the 2004 ‘Walter Clore Reserve’ that was absolutely singing. More recently I have had the opportunity to revisit these wines and see how they are showing at an older age. The wines are typically aged in barrel for 19 or more months. Older renditions of the ‘Walter Clore’ show more new oak tones than more recent vintages. 

One thing is clear from this retrospective — these wines all age gracefully, regardless of vintage. The 2006 Columbia Crest ‘Walter Clore Private Reserve’ Red Wine (WWB, 91) is really good right now and still has a few years of life left. The downright classy texture really adds to the drinking enjoyment. I absolutely adored there 2012 Columbia Crest ‘Walter Clore Private Reserve’ Red Wine (WWB, 92) which has wonderful richness and layers of toasty oak that mingle with the chocolate tones. This vicious wine is truly singing right now. Here are my tasting notes from my Columbia Crest ‘Walter Clore Private Reserve’ Red Wine vertical tasting. 

2006 Columbia Crest ‘Walter Clore Private Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2006 Columbia Crest ‘ ‘Walter Clore Private Reserve’ Red Wine is showing marvelously from this warm vintage in Washington State. Aromatically this is highly perfumed right out of the gate with its forward dark fruits, graphite and mocha aromas that meld in the glass. The texture of the wine is downright classy, as deep kirsch, espresso bean, and tar flavors come together. Enjoy this beauty now. Drink 2019-2023- 91

2008 Columbia Crest ‘Walter Clore Private Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2008 ‘Walter Close Private Reserve’ is fantastic at now the eleven year mark. Not needing a decant, the wine shows off medium to full-bodied blackberry pie and baking spice flavors with sagebrush and milk chocolate undertones. Generous and showing good length, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next seven plus years. Drink 2019-2026- 91

2012 Columbia Crest ‘Walter Clore Private Reserve’ Red Wine- Taken from a very classic vintage in Washington with moderate temperatures and a long growing season, the 2012 Columbia Crest ‘Walter Clore Private Reserve’ Red Wine is in a fantastic place right now. A blend of 80% Merlot with 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc and 6% Malbec, the wine really needs an hour decant to be fully expressive. Once aroused this begins with a bouquet of chocolate covered cherry with shades of baking spices and mocha that all meld in the glass. The soft texture and wonderful mouthfeel brings you back to the glass for more. A deep core of dark fruits and espresso bean collide with toasty oak and chocolate covered coconut. While fantastic now, this still has many years to go. This is a seriously good effort from former winemaker Juan Munoz Oca. Drink 2019-2027- 92

2013 Columbia Crest ‘Walter Clore Private Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2013 Columbia Crest ‘Walter Clore Private Reserve’ Red Wine was taken from a warm growing season that was a significant departure from the previous three vintages. The wine is a blend of mainly Merlot (64%) with 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and small portions Malbec and Cabernet Franc. The dense aromatics excite with tar and graphite colliding with espresso bean and blackberry pie. Lightly tannic, the mouthfeel and texture of the wine wonderfully dances with the bright sense of minerality. Mocha, tar, anise, creme de cassis and blackberry cordial flavors all sing in unison. Fantastic now, this dense treat will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2014 Columbia Crest ‘Walter Clore Private Reserve’ Red Wine- Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (46%) and Merlot (36%) the 2014 Columbia Crest ‘Walter Clore Private Reserve’ Red Wine is a gorgeous wine that is showing marvelously at five years of age. Coming from an exceedingly warm vintage in Washington, the spicy tones and deep core of dark fruit aromas mingle nicely in the glass. Generous and showing a plush texture, this has wonderful length with blackberry pie, cigar box, anise, Turkish coffee and shades of blueberry compote. The long finish lingers. Spectacular now, this beautiful wine will cellar well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 93

Smith-Madrone

One of the great older houses out of Napa that you may have never heard of, Smith-Madrone has gained a national reputation not only for their typical varietal wines, but for their Riesling wines. Smith-Madrone wines are sourced from the winery's dry-farmed estate vineyards surrounding the winery on top of Spring Mountain in the Napa Valley. Stuart Smith chose specific slopes with different exposures for specific varietals when planting the vineyards: eastern exposure for Riesling, southern and western exposures across flat stretches for the Cabernet Sauvignon and the coolest north-facing slopes for the Chardonnay. The soil is mostly deep-red Aiken Stony Clay loam, and is primarily volcanic-based, well-drained and deep for mountain soils. The estate is a 200 acre ranch, partly planted as vineyard over a century ago. California black bears and other wildlife once thrived here as did 120-year-old Picholine olive trees which frame a path and view down to the floor of the Napa Valley. 

I recently had the chance to review the wines from this historic estate in Napa and was hugely impressed with the quality of wines from the warm vintages of 2015 and 2016. Their 2015 Smith-Madrone Cabernet (WWB, 92) is marvelous with its balance and poise, with deep darker fruit flavors. The 2016 Smith-Madrone Riesling (WWB, 91) is amongst the best Rieslings made in this region. Fantastic now, the wine will cellar well at least for another five years. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://www.smithmadrone.com Here are the great new releases from Smith-Madrone

2016 Smith-Madrone Riesling- A whiff of petrol and white flowers immediately takes you to the old world rather than Napa. Beautifully textured and lithe, showing good poise, the wine delivers ripe green apple, wet stone and shades of kumquat zest that mingle together on the palate. This is truly one the best I have had from Napa. Drink 2019-2025- 91

2016 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay- Aromas of buttered popcorn and roasted hazelnuts offer intrigue on the nose. The freshness and power of the wine is fantastic as ripe vanilla cream and butterscotch flavors mingle with nutty and earthy undertones. The texture really impresses here as this beautiful wine will cellar well for the next decade, picking up tertiary characters as it ages. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2015 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2015 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon is another exciting release from this storied Napa estate. The dusty terroir is really impressive, as it collides with bight red fruits and shades of cassis on the nose. Showing really good restraint and balance, the wine leads with ripe red cherry, tobacco leaf, leather and dusty terroir on the palate. With wonderful verve and freshness, this expressive effort will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 92

Pepper Bridge

Jean-François Pellet t is one talented man. As I sat with him over dinner we talked about his approaching his wines. “I like wines with good structure and minerality but ones that are also full-bodied.” That made a lot of sense to me. ‘Isn’t that exactly how Washington wines should show’ I thought to myself. Highly engaging and charismatic, Pellet has degrees in both enology and viticulture and has previously interned in Germany, Switzerland and the Napa Valley. After graduating, he managed vineyards and made wine in Switzerland and Spain. Pellet then worked for Heitz Cellars for four years until he was recruited to work at Pepper Bridge.

If you have never visited Pepper Bridge, you are in for a visual treat. The winery boasts simply gorgeous views of the Walla Walla Valley and has a deck that is perfect for a warm summer day. Over several decades,  Jean-François Pellet  has employed a highly Bordelaise style of winemaking. He is a third generation wine grower,  and Pellet’s wines have received considerable acclaim and he continues to produce seriously good wines for both Pepper Bridge and their sister winery, Amavi Cellars. 

I absolutely love these new wines across the board. The 2018 Pepper Bridge Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 92) rivals the best of the varietal in the state. The wine has a touch of Semillon that provides the creamy texture that sits alongside the wonderful core of bright citrus and apple fruits. This is a gorgeous wine for the price. Even better was his 2016 Pepper Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 94) which is amongst the best wine that I have ever had from this estate. A complete wine, this shows not only wonderful tension and verve but great varietal typicity and a deep core of dark fruits. This is one for the cellar! Learn more about Pepper Bridge at www.pepperbridge.com. Here are the great new release wines from Pepper Bridge winery.

2018 Pepper Bridge Sauvignon Blanc- The 2018 Sauvignon Blanc by Pepper Bridge is a beautiful new wine by the talented Jean-Francios Pellet. A blend of 93% Sauvignon blanc with the remainder Semillon, the wine opens with aromas of white flowers with lovely citrus blossom and shades of green papaya that take shape in the glass. The texture to the wine is truly outstanding as a bright err of minerality cuts through the core of the citrus and green apple flavors. While outstanding to savor in its youth, this beautiful wine will cellar well over the next five plus years. Drink 2019-2025- 92

2016 Pepper Bridge Merlot- The 2016 Pepper Bridge Merlot was largely sourced from the Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge Vineyards as well as the Octave Vineyard. Aged in 58% new French oak before bottling, this opens with ripe red fruits that dance with shades of clove, and milk chocolate that all mingle in the glass. The palate has good freshness and density with plush red and dark fruits that mingle with the bright sense of minerality. Delightful now and showing good restraint considering the heat of the vintage, the 2016 Pepper Bridge Merlot will cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2035- 92

2016 Pepper Bridge ‘Trine’ Red Wine- The 2016 ‘Trine’ is a beautiful blend of 35% Cabernet Franc with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot and smaller portions Petit Verdot and Malbec. This begins with aromas of red bell pepper with red cherry, blackberry cobbler and shades of black licorice that all come together on the nose. The palate has a wonderful sense of balance, as this elegant wine has a seamless quality that runs through the core of red and dark fruits with chocolate undertones. Fantastic now, be sure to give this a long, two hour decant, if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2020-2035- 93

2016 Pepper Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 Pepper Bridge cabernet Sauvignon was aged in 45% new French oak before bottling and has smaller portions of Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc blended in. The nose is dense and offers intense black fruits that meld with Black Forest Cake and tar aromas that meld in the glass. The palate has wonderful freshness and elegance, with a silky texture. Black tea, exotic spices, blackberry cordial and shades of Turkish coffee all come together magically in the glass. Hedonistic and dense, yet beautifully balanced, this is a masterpiece that will have a long life in the cellar. Drink 2020-2040- 94

2016 Pepper Bridge ‘Pepper Bridge Vineyard’ Red Wine- A blend of 46% Merlot with 31% Malbec and 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, the wine was aged in 39% new French oak before bottling. The intense aromas captivate you with lavender and dense dark fruits that meld with shades of creosote and espresso bean that all mingle in the glass. The palate has great balance and effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Deep mocha, tar, leather and shades of blackberry coils all take their shape on the palate. A stunning wine in its youth, the ‘Pepper Bridge’ Red Wine will cellar well for at least another fifteen years. Drink 2020-2040- 94

2016 Pepper Bridge ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Red Wine- A blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon with 22% Cabernet Franc, 18% Merlot and small portions Malbec and Petit Verdot, the 2016 2016 Pepper Bridge ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Red Wine is a gorgeous new wine by this storied Walla Walla estate. Beautifully perfumed once in the glass, this slowly unveils ripe blackberry with anise, creme de cassis and shades of dark chocolate cake that meld in the glass. The palate has a lovely sense of minerality showing good richness and a silky texture. Light tannins line a deep core of dark fruits with creosote and espresso bean tones on the palate. Gorgeous to enjoy in its youth, this outstanding wine will have a. Long life in the cellar. Drink 2019-2035- 93

Chateau d'Yquem

One of the monumental moments in my wine education was the first time that I tried Chateau d’Yquem. Granted, I was a bit of a youngster, but I will never forget my first sip of the 1979 Chateau d’Yquem, poured by a former mentor of mine, Claude Faure. “This is different,” I thought to myself. While it takes a lot of time to typically appreciate the wines of Sauternes, I have found that the gravity of wines from this house appeal to pretty much every palate that try the wines.

I have been highly passionate about Sauternes for decades and started buying Sauternes when I was in graduate school fifteen years ago. While I might not possess a top shelf range of d’YQuem wines like some of my colleagues, I have a few that are best consumed for special occasions. The storied Sauternes estate was the only Sauternes property to be given the the Premier Cru Superior designation from the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855. The world wine community recognizes this estate as producing the best wines from Sauternes. The site itself is perfectly situated for achieving a high degree of botrytis in even the most challenging of vintages. 

This fall I had the chance to open one of my bottles of the absolutely epic 2005 Chateau d’YQuem which was seen by most critics as one of the top wines of the vintage. I did a 2005 vintage retrospective this past summer and found that wines from 2005 typically showed good levels of botrytis but also possessed a good sense of balance (http://www.washingtonwineblog.com/blog/2019/8/26/2005-sauternes-retrospective). I was absolutely blown away with the 2005 Chateau d’YQuem (WWB, 100) which is perfection in the bottle. My colleague and I simply stared at each other while sipping this majestic bottle. We didn’t need any words to describe how good this wine was.

Earlier in the year I tried the absolutely mind-blowing 1989 Chateau D’Yquem (WWB, 99) which came from a thrilling year in Sauternes. The wine now has a captivating blend of bananas foster and pineapple creme brûlée flavors that give the wine plenty of exotic appeal.

Learn more about the storied estate at http://yquem.fr/int-en/ Here is my review of the Sauternes wines from Chateau D’YQuem.

1989 Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes- The 1989 Chateau d’Yquem is a stunning showing at more than 30 years of age. While this is obviously showing some signs of age, the bright acidity of the wine shows that this still has many years to go. Nutmeg, butterscotch, Meyer lemon creme brûlée and toffee aromas fill the glass and entice the senses. The palate shows serious weight and tension leading to toffee infused bananas foster, kumquat zest and roasted pineapple creme brûlée that meld together in harmony. Complex and insanely delicious this wine is near perfection in the bottle. The finish to this wine is truly astounding and lasts for more than one minute. While it is gorgeous now, this will continue to evolve for the next decade or more. Drink 2020-2035- 99

2005 Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes- The 2005 Chateau d’Yquem is a scintillating wine that is just starting to hit its prime drinking window. The nose has a great exotic appeal with ripe pineapple and ginger tones that mingle with shades of butterscotch, and brandy soaked white raisin that all marvelously march in harmony in the glass. The scintillating aromatics bring you back to the glass for more delight. Stunning on the mid-palate, the silky texture truly entices. The range is insanely good from cardamom infused honey to candied ginger and lemon creme brûlée flavors. This is a complete wine that not only has tremendous viscosity but a marvelous balance and sense of place. Finishing strong with minerals, candied tropical fruits and butterscotch, the wine lingers incredibly long on the tongue. Ethereal and quite youthful now, do not hesitate to open this beautiful wine. Drink 2020-2050- 100

Chateau Climens

One of the great Sauternes houses in the world, Chateau Climens is located on the left bank of the Garonne, in Graves region in the south-west of Bordeaux, The Grands Crus from Sauternes and Barsac were classified in 1855 at the same time as the Grands Crus from Médoc. Château Climens belongs to the First Classed Growths of 1855.

In Sauternes appellation, the small village of Barsac is primarily set on limestone soils which yields a wonderful freshness and balance to the wines.  Having visited Chateau Climens last spring, I couldn’t help but notice the limestone deposits scattered all across the vineyard and some of them were quite large. Chateau Clemens estate is a 30 hectares property situated on the appellation’s highest land and Bérénice Lurton has been at the helm there since 1992. Berenice has a magical way with her wines to create a stunning sense of balance and terroir, regardless of vintage. I have found this to be true even in warmer vintages with higher levels of botrytis. Bérénice is one of the great winemakers of the world.

Last year I had a chance to do a long vertical tasting of her wines and was absolutely blown away with the consistency even in the most challenging of vintages. Her new wine from the 2016 vintage (WWB, 98) is a profoundly elegant wine. While this may not have the viscosity and richness that other vintages have, the elegance, tension and marvelous range really entices. This beauty really needs a lot of cellaring to fulfill its potential. It is a head-turning Sauternes that will be exceedingly long lived — most likely past my lifetime.  Learn about this compelling estate in the Bordeaux region at http://www.chateau-climens.fr/en/

2016 Chateau Climens Sauternes- The 2016 Chateau Climens is a head-turning blend made by the talented Bérénice Lurton, who has managed this property since 1992. 100% Semillon, this golden hued wine shows an exotic aromatic display, offering apricot jelly, pineapple upside down cake, butterscotch and shades of toasted hazelnut the all mingle together on the nose. Showing a glorious combination of tension and viscosity, the 2016 Climens shows incredible length and elegance despite its obvious power. Rich lemon creme brulee, vanilla cream, and orange marmalade flavors combine with a bright sense of minerality and a light salinity. The seamless quality of the wine is remarkable. Simply glorious now in its youth, this scintillating new release will have an exceedingly long life in the cellar. Drink 2026-2050- 98