Andrew Januik Retrospective

Happy Washington Wine Month to you all! Many years ago I was at Januik and Novelty Hill having an informal tasting with friends. Out of the corner of my eye I spotted Andrew Januik, whom I knew was become more and more involved in his family winery. I was able to snag him for several minutes as he casually mentioned ‘I’m thinking of doing my own wine’ to all of our delights. When queried more he shared that he wanted to do a Red Mountain project. 

In all fairness, Andrew didn’t choose an easy vintage to make his first Andrew Januik wine. But what he has crafted since its inception has been seriously good stuff. I’ve been really impressed with these wines that now include his ‘Southern Sojourn’ wine from Argentina. His ‘Stone Cairn’ is a Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon that is inky and intense, with beautiful texture and a good core of finesse. The wine is sourced from a host of Red Mountain AVA vineyards including Shaw, Obelisco, Quintessence, and Ciel du Cheval vineyards. Oak treatment is moderate, usually around 55% for roughly twenty months. 

Last Friday I had the great opportunity to visit Andrew and taste through a vertical of his ‘Stone Cairn’ Cabernet Sauvignon. There certainly was a common theme of richness, great acidity and tons of non-fruit tones that are a classic marker for Red Mountain. I found the 2011 ‘Stone Cairn’ (OB, 91) to be nicely evolved and peaking now, which is an awesome wine and shows plenty of richness despite the coolness of the vintage. Both the 2012 and 2013 bottling were great for different reasons. The 2012 has killer finesse and verve, coming off slightly more nuanced, while the 2013 is rich, dense and still has great freshness. Both have awesome aging potential. I was blown away with the new release, the 2018 Andrew Januik ‘Stone Cairn’ (OB, 94) which is fresh and vibrant but has a seamless texture and gorgeous aromatic and flavor range. This is one for the cellar. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://www.noveltyhilljanuik.com/wines/andrew-januik/ Here are my tasting notes from my Andrew Januik ‘Stone Cairn’ Retrospective tasting. 

2011 Andrew Januik ‘Stone Cairn’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The bell pepper and tobacco leaf tones mingle with wild blackberry on the nose. The palate shows good stuffing with a nice core of dark fruits with sweet pipe tobacco and anise tones. This is showing beautifully as the wine should be enjoyed over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2026- 91

2012 Andrew Januik ‘Stone Cairn’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2012 ‘Stone Cairn’ is a fabulous showing from this outstanding vintage. On the nose this takes on lighter herbal tones alongside blackberry, milk chocolate and tobacco leaf. The palate shows a great air of elegance with rich dark fruits that mingle with espresso grounds and shades of blueberry compote. The bright acidity and great core of fruits and lighter saline tones make me think this has long way to go. Drink 2021-2032- 93

2013 Andrew Januik ‘Stone Cairn’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2013 ‘Stone Cairn’ is a fantastic wine that shows plenty of exotic appeal. Tar and black licorice tones march on with espresso bean and blueberry cordial on the palate. This still has a great core of freshness. This is sensational wine that has at least another decade to go. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2014 Andrew Januik ‘Stone Cairn’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2014 ‘Stone Cairn’ shows off intense exotic spices with shades of creosote, black currants and black cherry cordial on the nose. The palate has incredible freshness and verve, with a great dusting off salinity. A wonderful; wall of dark fruits greet you with fantastic length. Enjoyable now, this will cellar well over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2021-2035- 93

2015 Andrew Januik ‘Stone Cairn’ Cabernet Sauvignon- I love where the 2015 ‘Stone Cairn’ is at the six year mark. Creosote tones alongside mocha and blackberry compote flavors mingle with smoky undertones on the palate. This is already quite nicely evolved and probably is best consumed over the next five years. Drink 2021-2026- 92

2018 Andrew Januik ‘Stone Cairn’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘Stone Cairn’ by Andrew Januik is quite possibly the finest wine I have tasted from this talented young winemaker. The wine is dense and chewy now at the three year mark. The nose has really great range from tar and pipe tobacco to blueberry compote, mocha and loganberry preserves. The wine shows incredible decadence and a seamless texture. Once on the mouth this effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. This is big but has a great sense of elegance, as this beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for another decade or more. Drink 2021-2034- 94

Force Majeure

Roughly five years ago I came by the former Woodinville location for Force Majeure during harvest. Winemaker Todd Alexander graciously shared his harvest updates as he has with me each year and I went on my way, thanking him for his time. Todd has always been gracious at sharing his thoughts from a winemaking perspective since I first met him when he moved up from California and was lured from the Napa Valley to craft wines from Red Mountain, the Force Majeure Vineyard. I can understand why he was interested in this partnership.

Set at 960 to 1,230 feet, this special vineyard is planted to mainly Rhone and Bordeaux varietals and the fruit off this vineyard has been nothing short of incredible. It was Todd’s deft hand that have crafted world class wines for Force Majeure, putting them on the map with other Washington top producers. Todd formerly made wine at famed Bryant Family Vineyard in the Napa Valley where he worked with vineyard manager David Abreu as well as consultant extraordinaire, Michel Rolland. Since that partnership has started, I have been blown away with what Todd has produced across the board. His wines are seamless and show a wonderful combination of acidity, mouthfeel and dense fruit flavors. 

To say that Todd arrived on the Washington wine scene with a thunderous thud would be an understatement. It was quite literally a proverbial earthquake that he has created with transforming this wine program. I love what he has done with his 2018 wines. These wines have great depth and concentration, yet there is a weightless feeling across the board. I was blown away with their Rhone style blend, the 2018 Force Majeure ‘Paravata’ Red Wine (OB, 96) which has insanely good range. One of the best wines of its kind made in Washington, the 2018 Force Majeure Tempranillo (OB, 97) is really singing with its massive concentration of dark fruits, with plenty of finesse and smoky tones. Finally, the coup de gras of the collection, the 2018 Force Majeure ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 99) is a wine that simply flirts with perfection. This is a Cabernet for any serious collector of Washington wine. Huge congrats to Todd and the team in crafting one of the great wine lineups in Washington State. Learn more about these great wines at  https://forcemajeurevineyards.com Here are the fantastic new wines by Force Majeure. 

2019 Force Majeure Viognier- Sourced from the Force Majeure Estate Vineyard on Red Mountain, this gorgeous wine shows ripe star jasmine and honeysuckle tones on the nose alongside nectarine and kiwi tones that all meld in the glass. The palate is beautifully textured and elegant, showing great freshness and finesse. Lemon curd and nutmeg infused Challah bread mingle with minerals and smoky undertones on the palate. The terroir here is really intriguing as the gratifying finish lingers. This might not possess quite the weight of the ’18 but has plenty of finesse. Drink 2021-2027- 94

2018 Force Majeure ‘Paravata’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Paravata’ might be the finest rendition of this wine that I have tasted since Todd Alexander took over this program. A scintillating blend of 57% Mourvedre with 25% Syrah and 18% Grenache and a glass-staining purple, this reveals violets with potpourri and shades of white pepper and meat drippings that all take shape in the glass aromatically. The palate has a soft and elegant texture and shows great weight and verve. Lighter garrigue tones combine with smoked brisket, creme de violette and a massive core of dark fruits. The length really adds to the enjoyment as this beautiful wine is sinfully good in its youth and will continue to evolve well over the next decade. Drink 2021-2035- 96

2018 Force Majreure ‘Estate’ Syrah- The 2018 Force Majeure ‘Estate’ Syrah is a massive, dense and hedonistic monstrous wine that is a remarkable achievement from this outstanding vintage on Red Mountain. The aromatics are simply captivating with smoked brisket alongside violets and lavender with white pepper, wild huckleberry compote and violets. The palate is deeply concentrated and shows a great core of acidity with firm tannins holding everything in place. Shades of blood orange zest alongside black olive tapenade, blackberry pie, mocha, fresh blueberries, and tar with Black Forest Cake all impress. The length provides the resounding crecendo, as this beautiful wine will be best enjoyed over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2021-2025 97

2018 Force Majeure ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2018 ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah was aged in 25% new French oak and was fermented in concrete and open top stainless steel before bottling. For my palate, this is the best bottling of its kind yet. This Syrah shows the insanely good range imparted by ‘SJR Vineyard’ fruit. The freshness of this wine is seriously good, as horse manure, black tea, and gobs of stony character. With more air, citrus rind and black floral tones begin to emerge. The silky texture is insanely good here. Vibrant and intense, with incredible tension, this weightless Syrah is incredible now and will provide drinking enjoyment over the next decade. Drink 2021-2030-98

2018 Force Majeure Tempranillo- The 2018 Force Majeure Tempranillo is a massive wine that rivals anything of its kind in the state. A glass-staining purple, this shows smoky aromatics right away, alongside chocolate, coffee grounds and huckleberry coulis tones that all sing in unison. The palate is deep and downright voluptuous, showing off its seamless texture. Layers of rich dark fruits collide with minerals, smoked brisket, anise and cassis tones, giving this plenty of exotic appeal considering the varietal. Gorgeous now, give this at least two hours of air if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2022-2038- 97

2018 Force Majeure ‘Epinette’ Red Wine- A magnetic follow-up to their 2017 bottling, the 2018 ‘Epinette’ is a sinfully good effort by superstar winemaker Todd Alexander. A blend of primarily Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with smaller portions Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, the wine was aged for 22 months in nearly all new French oak prior to bottling. Asian spices and violet aromatics are woven together with creme de cassis, tar and Turkish coffee tones that all entice on the nose. The palate is soft, round and elegant, coming off as a top Pomerol from 2009 or perhaps 2003. A deep core of dark fruits greet you, but the weightless texture mid-palate makes this really glide through the drinking experience. The 2018 ‘Epinette’ is truly a one of a kind bottling that is downright killer in its youth and will provide drinking enjoyment over the next two decades. Drink 2020-2040- 97

2018 Force Majeure ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- 2018 marks the debut vintage of this wine, entirely sourced from the Force Majeure Estate Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley. Inky and brooding once in the glass, this Cabernet Sauvignon shows graphite and smoke aromas, woven together with dark currant cordial and shades of dark chocolate covered espresso bean that all meld in the glass. The heady aromatics bring you back to the glass for more enjoyment. The palate is rich and concentrated, showing not only good depth but a soft sense of mouthfeel and wonderful length. Sensational to savor now at the three year mark, this generous and expressive Cabernet Sauvignon will only improve with some cellaring. Be sure to give this at least a two hour decant if enjoying now. Drink 2022-2040- 96

2018 Force Majeure ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon by Force Majeure is a simply magical bottling that flirts with perfection.  Comprised of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, with small parts Merlot and Petit Verdot, this saw 80% new French oak prior to bottling. The nose ism downright intoxicating with creme de cassis, anise, blueberry compote and sandalwood tones that all meld in the glass. The palate is rich and seductive, with not only beautiful concentration but a seamless texture and downright brilliant length. Rich creme de violette, sagebrush, blackberry cordial and mocha tones give this plenty of exotic appeal. Seductive and intense in its youth, this outrageously good wine will cellar well for many decades to come. Drink 2022-2045- 99

Vincent Dauvissat

Ever had a world-class Chablis? They can be mind-bending. One of the famed producers of Chablis, Vincent Dauvissat is one of my person favorite producers from the region. This brand has also become insanely popular of late in the United States, as the wine pairs so marvelously with a massive range of foods. A Dauvissat with age is a truly profound wine drinking experience. A family operation, Vincent Dauvissat was born to a family of winemakers. In 1979 Vincent Dauvissat started working with his father, René, at the family Domaine established by his grandfather. When René retired in 1989, Vincent took over the responsibility of running the family-owned Domaine, and has been at the helm ever since. In 2002, Vincent oversaw the implementation of biodynamic farming methods. Today, Vincent is joined by the fourth generation of Dauvissats, his son, Ghislain, and daughter, Etiennette. While both Ghislain and Etienette assist Vincent with vinification, Etiennette focuses on administrative duties and Ghislain maintains the vineyards.

I recently had the chance to try one of his wines with some age, the 2013 Vincent Dauvissat ‘La Forest’ Chablis (OB, 94) which was a profound experience as the wine is slowly moving into the tertiary realm of nutty and damp earth tones. It was a delight to savor. Learn more about this famed brand at Here are my tasting notes of this special 2013 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis. 

2013 Vincent Dauvissat ‘La Forest’ Chablis- The 2013 Vincent Dauvissat ‘La Forest’ Chablis  is a stunning bottling that is showing marvelously now at eight years of age. Once on the nose this takes on marvelous wild mushroom and peat moss tones woven together with nectarine and lemon oil, with flinty and diatomaceous earth undertones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is lithe and fresh with vibrant minerality. Layers of crushed seashells and green apple, alongside Meyer lemon zest, smoky minerals and a dusting of white truffle all seamlessly sing in unison. A delight to savor at this juncture, the glorious 2013 ‘La Forest’ still has a very long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2033- 94

Raptor Ridge

Long before I was reviewing wines professionally I had admired those made at Raptor Ridge. A massive amount of winemaking talent has moved through those doors, including their outstanding winemaker Shannon Gustafson. Raptor Ridge is a historic Oregon house that is crafting some seriously good wines. Founded back in 1995, Raptor Ridge almost immediately gained national acclaim for their Pinot Noirs. Founder and co-winemaker, Scott Shull, first started making terroir driven wines in 1995. Originally from Missouri, Scott is a self-taught winemaker, having learned by doing, reading, and attending extension service courses on viticulture and enology offered by U.C. Davis and Oregon State University.

Shannon Gustafson, combines with Scott Shull to make a great team. Shannon previously made wine out of Paso Robles, CA before working harvests in McLaren Vale and then coming on as winemaker for Hawks View winery in Oregon. She has served as Raptor Ridge winemaker for several years now. I adored her new wines which include a killer new bubbles, the 2016 Raptor Ridge ‘Brut Rose’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 92) which is linear and shows a soft texture with pretty red fruits. I adored the 2018 Raptor Ridge ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Gris (OB, 92) which shows remarkable range for the varietal. Even better is the gorgeous 2017 Raptor Ridge ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which has fantastic salty terroir. Learn more about this outstanding Oregon winery at http://www.raptorridgewinery.com Here are the great new releases by Raptor Ridge. 

2016 Raptor Ridge ‘Brut Rose’ Sparkling Wine-  The 2016 ‘Brut Rose’ saw some extended tirage time before being released. The biscuit tones mingle with sour red fruits and shades of pomengrate seed that all take shape in the glass. The seamless texture is really nice as bright red fruits collide with earthy and orange rind tones. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2018 Raptor Ridge ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Gris- The 2018 Raptor Ridge Pinot Gris shows off pretty honeysuckle tones alongside white peach and pink grapefruit blossom. The palate is fresh, vibrant and impeccably textured. Layers of pretty orchard fruits mingle with kumquat and shades of baking spices on the palate. This is seriously good stuff that has some good aging potential. Drink 2021-2026- 92

2015 Raptor Ridge ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- A considerably later release wine, the 2015 ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir shows soft red fruits that dance with a touch of cola and orange zest. With more air the earthy undertones and gentle texture add to the enjoyment. Really in a good spot now, enjoy over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2026- 91

2017 Raptor Ridge ‘Tuscowallame Estate’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Tuscowaallame Estate’ is an indigenous term named after the place where owls reside. Blood orange rind and red cherry candy tones mingle with shades of peat moss on the nose. The soft texture entices as rich red fruits dance with minerals, smoke and shades of wild mushroom on the palate. With good length this outstanding wine is singing now at the four year mark and will provide drinking enjoyment over the next decade. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2017 Raptor Ridge ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’Pinot Noir- The ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ is a storied, higher elevation site in the Eola-Amity Hills, farmed by Dal Crisp. Once on the nose this takes on layers of tart pomegranate seed and orange rind alongside damp earthy undertones. The palate is fresh and marvelously terroir-driven with its salty undertones. The freshness and rich red fruit profile impresses here with lighter suggestions of white truffle shavings that all meld together. With beautiful length, this outstanding new Eola-Amity Hills. Bottling will enjoy a long life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2018 Raptor Ridge ‘Barrel Select’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 Raptor Ridge ‘Barrel Select’ Pinot Noir is an outstanding new release wine that is showing brilliantly now at the three year mark. Sourced from their estate vineyard as well as several other sites across the Willamette Valley, this shows rich red and dark fruits alongside Mandarin orange zest and baking spices on the palate. Already quite evolved now, enjoy this great value over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2026- 91

Secret Squirrel

I have a penchant for finding great values in Pacific Northwest wine. Secret Squirrel, an offshoot of Corliss Winery, one of the great producers of red wine in Washington. Not everyone can afford $100 Cabernet and Secret Squirrel gives you a great bottle of wine that underwent both aging and high end oak treatment for a great price. 

Wines are sourced from great properties amongst Red Mountain, Walla Walla Valley and Yakima Valley AVAs and then fermented by native yeast with extended aging in concrete and French oak. 

This winery project has been definitely keeping a low profile but it is my job to highlight them. I adored the new 2016 Secret Squirrel Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 92) which offers gobs of rich dark fruits with a plush texture. Just as good is the fantastic 2016 Secret Squirrel ‘Columbia Valley’ Red Wine (OB, 92) which is their GSM style wine. Similarly dense and beautifully textured, these wines are both steals at a mere $25.00. Learn more about these wines at http://www.secretsquirrel.com and here are my reviews of the fantastic new Secret Squirrel wines. 

2016 Secret Squirrel Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 Secret Squirrel Cabernet Sauvignon is a downright awesome value by Corliss. Rich cassis and blackberry compote mark the nose with graphite and sagebrush undertones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is plush, showing a silky mouthfeel and great veil of tension. Copious dark fruits collide with minerals, smoke and underbrush tones on the palate. The gratifying length adds to the enjoyment.  Fantastic in its youth, this beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon has at least another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2030- 92

2016 Secret Squirrel ‘Columbia Valley ’ Red Wine- A blend of mostly Syrah (55%) with smaller parts Mourvedre and Grenache, this delivers roasted figs, garrigue and shades of creosote on the nose, with sagebrush undertones. The palate is soft and nicely textured with toasty oak that wraps around layers of rich red and dark fruits, chocolate and coffee ground tones. Seriously good now, this outstanding Rhone style Washington wine will deliver drinking enjoyment for the next eight years. Drink 2021-2028- 92

Washington Report for Decanter

Friends,

It is a great honor to be chosen to produce the first comprehensive Washington Report for Decanter, Europe’s leading wine magazine. The report will highlight the 2018 vintage for red wines, and I’m thrilled to participate 🍷

Brilliant Mistake

An exciting new Napa project founded by John & Stacy Reinert, Brilliant Mistake Wines utilizes each coming from different backgrounds to be proprietors of their new business. While dating both would frequent the Napa Valley and were inspired by the wines made by Thomas Rivers Brown and Juan Mercado amongst others. 

At the helm is winemaker Maayan Koschitzky, formerly working for cult projects such as Screaming Eagle, Dalle Valle, and director of winemaking at Atelier Melka. Their first vintage was in 2013, as this project has been a great success. Wines are very limited production and source from esteemed sites including the famed ‘Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III.’ They also make a 100 case production Sauvignon Blanc which I didn’t taste. These wines have a very old-world feel, yet displaying plenty of ripe fruits and Napa character. These come off a bit akin to the Mayacamus and Corison style of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. 

The 2018 Brilliant Mistake ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) is impeccably balanced, with a seamless texture and really good range. Even better is the sinfully good 2018 Brilliant Mistake ‘G3’Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 97) which is deep, rich and wonderfully concentrated, yet shows restraint and a wonderful veil of tension. Learn more at brilliantmistakewines.com Here are the outstanding new 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon releases by Brilliant Mistake. 

2018 Brilliant Mistake ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Inky dark once in the glass, the 2018 Brilliant Mistake Cabernet Sauvignon shows dark currants and sandalwood tones on the nose, woven together with scorched earth and creme de cassis with red bell pepper undertones that all march in unison. The palate is seamless, showing a silky texture and wonderful sense of elegance, yet possessing good weight. A kaleidoscope of dark and red berries greet you, with tar, anise and exotic spices on the palate. The freshness imparted is outstanding, as this generously textured wine will provide drinking enjoyment for another fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2021-2038- 95

2018 Brilliant Mistake ‘G3’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from the famed ‘Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III’ this 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon is a magical effort from famed winemaker Maayan Koschitky. On the nose this takes on deep creme de violette and Turkish coffee tones alongside tar, tobacco leaf and blackberry compote that all take shape in the glass. The palate is plush, soft and seamless, showing a downright pillowy texture. Layers of creme de cassis, anise and baking spices are woven together with creosote and dark chocolate shaving tones on the palate. Full-bodied, yet showing a great mineral edge, the gorgeous 2018 ‘G3’ is already evolving beautifully at the three year mark, as this was decades of life ahead of it.  Drink 2022-2040- 97

Billecart-Salmon

A Champagne house with a great history, Champagne Billecart-Salmon controls estate of 100 hectares, obtaining grapes from an area totalling 300 hectares across 40 crus of the Champagne region. The majority of the grapes used for vinification come from a radius of 20km around Epernay, where the Grand Crus of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay co-exist, in the vineyards of the Montagne de Reims, the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs. Now a journey spanning seven generations, the house was formed with the marriage of 1818 when Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon in 1818. This remains a family winery since the beginning with Louis Salmon, brother of Elisabeth and a passionate oenologist, getting involved in the creation of the wines.

In 1964 their tete de cuvee, ‘Cuvee Nicolas Francois’ was crafted to serve as an homage to their founder. The house has received considerable critical acclaim over the years, not only for their top wines, including the Clos Saint-Hilaire cuvée, first created with the 1995 vintage, but their Rose and vintage champagnes in particular. On the west coast of the United States, their Rose champagne is particularly one of the most popular champagnes that you will find in bars and restaurants.

Last year I interviewed their export manager and I recently had the chance to try the beautiful new wines by Billecart-Salmon and was very impressed by the level of freshness, poise and mouthfeel with each of the wines. Simply marvelous right now, coming from a warm vintage the 2009 Billecart-Salmon ‘Extra Brut’ Champagne (OB, 93) is vibrant and dense with a gorgeous sense of mousse and texture. Even better and completely different in style, coming from a much cooler vintage, the 2007 Billecart-Salmon ‘Cuvee Nicolas Francois’ Champagne (OB, 95) quite simply exudes class with its finesse and flavor range. This beautiful wine is truly one of the great wines made this vintage. Learn more about this inspired champagne house at https://www.champagne-billecart.fr Here are the beautiful new Champagnes by Billecart-Salmon. 

NV Billecart-Salmon ‘Brut Nature’ Champagne- This zero dosage bottling shows sourdough bread with Japanese pear, walnut and shades of marzipan on the nose. The freshness and finesse here is seriously good. Minerals and wet stone collide with starfruit, Gravenstein apple and lemon zest tones. Gorgeous in its youth, this will provide drinking enjoyment over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2009 Billecart-Salmon ‘Extra Brut’ Champagne- The 2009 Billecart-Salmon ‘Extra Brut’ Champagne is a beautiful blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay and 27% Pinot Meunier. Showing off its golden hue this shows off rich nectarine with buttered bread and Macadamia nut on the nose. The palate is plush, showing a seamless texture and wonderful length. Layers of orchard fruits mingle with lemon curd, vanilla bean and white ginger on the palate. Fresh and vibrant, with a rich texture, this warm vintage Champagne is drinking beautifully now and has at least another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2035- 93

2007 Billecart-Salmon ‘Cuvee Nicholas Francois’ Brut Champagne- Taken from a cooler vintage in Chamapgne, this very late release Champagne is one of the best that I have tasted from this vintage. At the fourteen year mark this wine is remarkably youthful. Aged on the lees for ten years and given 6G/L dosage, this is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay sourced from mainly grand cru vineyards.  Toasty brioche tones meld with kumquat zest, baking spices and Marcona almond with white florals that all meld in the glass. The palate is fresh and shows racy acidity, with a seamless texture. Layers of Japanese pear, lemon zest and shades of Meyer lemon oil and toasted almond dusted biscuit all come together marvelously. This is seriously good stuff that has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2038- 95

Gorman Winery

A longstanding Woodinville winery, Gorman is founded by Chris Gorman who began his winery shortly after graduating from college in 1991. Before starting he spent 3 years working for a small Italian importer which carefully trained his palate. During that time Chris traveled extensively in the wine areas of Italy, Spain and Germany and finally started his winery in 2002. The winery has been a small operation, crafting consistently good wines from the Columbia Valley. Currently producing roughly 8,000 cases a year Chris focuses on the terroir from Red Mountain and works with great vineyards such as Kiona, Shaw and many others. They also make an excellent Chardonnay called their ‘Big Sissy.’

It has been several years since I had tasted the new Gorman lineup and I was really impressed across the board. The wines came from warm vintages, 2017 and 2018. I love the 2020 Gorman ‘The Devil Wears Pink’ Rose (OB, 91) which is fresh and nicely textured, just needing a warm summer day. I adored the 2019 Gorman ‘Big Sissy’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is seamless, and showing a sinfully good mouthfeel, with great length. This Chardonnay really has some good cellaring potential. Learn more about these fantastic new wines at gormanwinery.com. Here are the great new wines by Chris Gorman and his Gorman Winery. 

2020 Gorman Winery ‘The Devil Wears Pink’ Rose- Sourced from the ‘Boushey Vineyard’ this Rose shows crisp and vibrant green apple and green papaya tones with just a touch of sweetness. The soft texture and good length add to the enjoyment here. Drink 2021-2024- 91

2020 Gorman Winery ‘Luanne’ White Wine- This proprietary white blend was sourced from the ‘Boushey Vineyard’ in the Yakima Valley. Fragrant and wonderfully textured, this beautiful wine shows ripe peach and kiwi flavors alongside wet stone and shades of cantaloupe. Rich and layered, showing a vibrant acidity, this is an awesome new wine by the talented Chris Gorman that is best enjoyed over the next several years. Drink 2021-2026- 92

2019 Gorman Winery ‘Big Sissy’ Chardonnay- This Columbia Valley bottling catches your eye with the seamless texture and great sense of freshness. Meyer lemon and pineapple upside down cake mingle with minerals, smoke, and shades of butterscotch on the palate. This is just sinfully good stuff even at the two year mark, as the 2019  ‘Big Sissy’ Chardonnay has some great cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2029- 93

2018 Gorman Winery ‘Sleeping Giant’ Syrah- The 2018 ‘Sleeping Giant’ was sourced from the esteemed ‘Boushey Vineyard’ and shows really good aromatic range from dark currants to bacon fat and cigar ash tones that all meld in the glass. The palate is soft and very pretty with its core of red and dark fruits. The soft texture entices as this beautiful wine has another decade or more to go. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2018 Gorman Winery ‘Pixie’ Syrah- Sourced from Red Mountain, this Syrah opens with kirsch  cordial and scorched earth tones alongside shades of black tea and exotic spices that all take shape in the glass. The palate is dense and hugely inviting with a massive core of red and dark fruits alongside chocolate, pipe tobacco and coffee ground flavors. This is seriously good now and will cellar well at least for another ten years. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2018 Gorman Winery ‘Bully’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This Red Mountain AVA bottling shows off a great sense balance and texture. Silky smooth throughout, this unveils layers of ripe blackberries and dark currants ,mingle with smoke, minerals and scorched earth tones on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, showing great balance and poise, this outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon will enjoy another fifteen plus years ahead of it. Drink 2021-2035- 92

Willamette Valley Vineyards

Oregon is blessed with some incredible historic wineries. Willamette Valley Vineyards was originally founded in 1983 by Oregon wine pioneer, Jim Bernau. Jim cleared away an old pioneer plum orchard in the Salem Hills to start his first vineyard. Over time Willamette Valley Vineyards has considerably increased their estate vineyards through partnerships like the merger with Oregon wine industry pioneer, Bill Fuller of Tualatin Vineyards (established in 1973), the O'Briens for Elton Vineyard (established in 1983) and Loeza Vineyard (planted in 2015). Willamette Valley Vineyards sources all of its Pinot Noir from their nearly 500 acres of estate vineyards.

I have really enjoyed these wines over the past several years. A year ago I had the chance to interview their talented winemaker Joe Ibrahim, who is originally from New York and started his wine journey in Vermont. He has held several high end wine positions prior to coming to Willamette Valley Vineyards, including working for Ste. Michelle Wine Estate in Washington State, as well as Gallo Family in California where he learned about brandy distillation as a Spirits Maker and sparkling wine production as the Senior Winemaker in charge of the sparkling wine program. 

His new wines were really good across the board. I loved his 2016 Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Blanc (OB, 91) which is nicely textured and shows great freshness from this warm vintage. which has marvelous richness and a downright sexy texture.  I really enjoyed the 2018 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Founders Reserve’ Pinot Noir (OB, 92) which is dense and chewy with a great core of acidity and red and dark fruits. Learn more about this famed Oregon winery at willamettevalleyvineyards.com. Here are the great new wines by Willamette Valley Vineyards.

2018 Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Blanc- The 2018 Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Blanc shows a soft texture and great veil of salinity. Hazelnut and Bosc pear tones mingle with shades of green papaya and buttercream accents on the palate. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next five years. Drink 2021-2025- 91

2017 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Bernau Block’ Chardonnay- This great Chardonnay is sourced from old Chardonnay vines dating back to 1993 which utilizes Dijon clone 76 and 96. Fresh and vibrant, this shows good verve and a soft texture. Bright orchard fruits mingle with melon and salty tones on the palate. Drink 2021-2028- 91

2017 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Tualitin Estate’ Chardonnay- The ‘Tualitin Estate’ is a Draper clone based Chardonnay wine that saw 30% new French oak for ten months before bottling. Rich brioche tones mingle with lemon zest, starfruit and shades of Pink Lady apple. Nicely textured, this has good length and balance, with a long and gratifying  finish. Drink 2021-2028- 92

2019 Willamette Valley Vineyards White Pinot Noir- This shows melon and salted Macadamia nut tones on the nose with baked apple. Honeydew melon and cashew flavors mingle with Japanese pear and Challah bread on the palate. Fresh and nicely textured, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next seven plus years. Drink 2021-2028- 91

2017 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Appellation Cuvee’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Appelation Cuvee’ is a later released wine that is sourced from several AVAs in the Willamette Valley. Cran-orange and shades of peat moss combine with a core of dark kirsch aromatic tones on the nose. The palate shows a soft texture with layers of bright red fruits, with forest floor accents and a soft texture. Drink 2021-2026- 90

2019 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Whole Cluster’ Pinot Noir- Big, juicy and bright, the 2019 ‘Whole Cluster’ Pinot Noir offers ripe Mandarin orange zest with Bing cherry, and forest floor accents on the nose. The palate is vibrant with gobs of juicy red fruits that mingle with lighter damp earth and tangerine water flavors. Enjoy over the next five to seven years while the great core of fruit and brightness remains. Drink 2021-2026- 91

2018 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Founder’s Reserve’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Founder’s Reserve’ Pinot Noir is a rich and well-balanced effort from this exciting vintage in Oregon. The  nose takes on a great core of red and dark fruits with tobacco leaf, peat moss and orange zest that all take shape in the glass. The palate has a smooth texture with a great sense of mouthfeel. Ripe red and dark cherry mingle with orange rind, peat moss and shades of white pepper. Drink 2021-2028- 92

2018 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir by Willamette Valley Vineyards utilizes a host of clones and soil types. The wine was aged for ten months in 17% new French oak before bottling. The palate is fresh and vibrant with lovely acidity. Layers of sour kirsch, pomegranate seed and orange zest mingle with the earthy undertones. Beautiful in its youth, this outstanding new Pinot Noir will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031- 92

Paraduxx

One of the unique wineries in Napa that focuses on capturing the art of blending, Paraduxx is located on the Silverado trail and was founded in 1994 by Dan and Margaret Duckhorn as the only Napa Valley winery focused exclusively to making Napa Valley blends. Their first vintage was a unique blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Merlot and Petite Sirah. Since that time there has been a surge in other blending projects, most notably the great Orin Swift wines. 

Cardiff Scott-Robinson serves as Paraduxx winemaker and was formerly the assistant winemaker at Paraduxx. I really enjoyed his wines from the 2017 vintage. The 2017 Paraduxx ‘Howell Mountain’ Red Wine (OB, 91) is a southern French style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah that has a really nice smoky edge. Even better is the 2017 Paraduxx ‘Atlas Peak’ Red Wine (OB, 92) is an awesome Sangiovese based wine that has great finesse and a soft mouthfeel. Learn more about these great wines at https://www.paraduxx.com/ Here are the great new releases by Paraduxx. 

2019 Paraduxx ‘Proprietary White’ White Wine- This comes off very Rhone style white with beeswax and cantaloupe flavors alongside good minerality and tension. The rich viscosity really adds to the experience. Drink 2021-2026- 92

2017 Paraduxx ‘Candlestick’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Candelstick’ is a great blend of Syrah (60%) and Grenache (40%) that saw 50% new French oak for eighteen months before bottling. Ripe figs and mocha tones mingle with blackberry compote and tobacco leaf tones on the palate. Full-bodied and rich, this beautiful wine will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2031- 91

2017 Paraxduxx ‘Howell Mountain’ Red Wine- A Provence inspired blend of near equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, the ‘Howell Mountain’ Red Wine shows nice smoky tones on the nose with shades of cardamom and black currants that are woven together with anise and red florals that all meld in the glass. The palate is soft and fresh with a great sense of texture and weight. Rich red and dark fruits meld with chocolate and tobacco tones on the palate. Great to enjoy in its youth, this outstanding new wine will cellar well for another decade or more. Drink 2021-2031- 91

2017 Paraduxx ‘Cork Tree Vineyard’ Red Wine- Truly a one of a kind Napa blend of 55% Malbec with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon, they 2017 ‘Cork Tree Vineyard’ Red Wine was aged in 50% new French oak for eighteen months prior to bottling. Creme de cassis and creme de violette tones mingle with dried herbs, tar and coffee ground flavors on the palate. Dense, chewy and downright fantastic in its youth, this has another fifteen years to go. Drink 2021-2035- 92

2017 Paraduxx ‘Atlas Peak’ Red Wine- A unique blend of Sangiovese (67%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (32%), this shows spicy red fruits on the nose alongside tobacco leaf, leather and blackberry pie with loamy soils that all take shape in the glass. The palate is plush showing a seamless texture and wonderful length. Gorgeous now, with firm tannins holding everything in place, this outstanding new bottling will cellar well over the next ten plus years. Drink 2021-2033= 92

2017 Parduxz ‘Rector Creek’ Red Wine- A great blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel, the wine shows rich bramble tones alongside Bing cherry, pipe tobacco and mocha tones. Medium to full-bodied, with great acidity and length, the 2017 ‘Rector Creek’ Red Wine is outstanding now at the four year mark and will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2031- 92

Leonetti Cellar

It has sadly been more than a year since I sat across famed winemaker Chris Figgins and tasted with him. One of my fondest memories that I’ve shared with my fellow Arsenal supporter was a dinner at now closed RN74 in downtown Seattle. Chris has an affinity for fine cuisine and we spent an extraordinary evening together, reveling in his new wines and chatting about fine wine, travel, dining and the team we both support.

Leonetti has always been a highly traditional winery, making several wines each year and not branching out to new projects. They now have an amazing single vineyard project is a great chance for Chris to enter another element as a winemaker and the end results is quite extraordinary. He is also making Aglianico now for several years which is one of the unique wines made in our state.

Two nights ago I opened each bottle and tasted them over several hours, watching them evolve. The wines share a common thread of weight, poise and wonderful aging potential. Truly one of the unique wines made in Washington, I adored the 2015 Leonetti Cellar Aglianico (OB, 94) which is amongst the best New World expressions of this varietal that you will find. Similarly, the 2018 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese (OB, 95) is round and generous as this beauty will cellar well for another fifteen years. The 2018 Leonetti Cellar ‘Reserve’ Red Wine (OB, 99) teeters on perfection in a bottle. Massive, dense and decadent, this hedonistic monster of a wine has a huge cellaring potential — potentially 30 plus years! This will be a great wine to revisit in five to ten years, as it needs a very long decant now. Learn more about these stunning new wines at http://leonetticellar.com/ Here are my reviews of the beautiful new Leonetti Cellar wines. 

2018 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese- Coming off the astonishingly good 2017 release, the 2018 edition is a sensational, one of a kind 100% varietal bottling that quite simply rivals any other in Sangiovese made in North America, including those I have tasted from Napa.  Aged for 22 months in a combination of new and used French oak barrels, puncheons and oval botti, this wine shows off really good aromatic range from blood orange zest to red cherry candy and tobacco leaf, alongside shades of red currant jelly that all march in unison. The palate shows bright acidity and wonderful freshness. The purity of red fruit here is brilliant as layers of pomegranate seed, red raspberry cordial, and cran-cherry flavors mingle with minerals, pipe tobacco and smoky minerals on the palate. This finishes exceedingly long. Fantastic to enjoy at the three year mark, this will deliver drinking enjoyment for two decades to come. Drink 2021-2038- 95

2019 Leonetti Cellar Merlot- The 2018 Leonetti Cellar Merlot is another utterly fabulous effort by this top notch producer of Washington Merlot and superstar winemaker Chris Figgins. This 100% Merlot was sourced from the Seven Hills, Loess, Mill. Creek Upland and Leonetti Old Block Vineyards. The wine was aged in 15 months in new and used barrels and puncheons, as well as oval botti, prior to bottling. Ripe figs and huckleberry jam with tobacco and tar tones mark the nose. The heady aromatics bring you back to the glass for more. The palate is plush and highly concentrated, yet takes on an air of elegance with its wonderful verve. Layers of deep dark fruits collide with cocoa powder dusted espresso bean and shades of scorched on the palate. Intense and glorious in its youth, this beautiful new 2019 Merlot will cellar well for many decades to come. Be sure to give this a three plus hour decant if enjoying over the next several years. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2018 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon is a scintillating new effort that checks all the right boxes for Washington Cab. A blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon with 9% Merlot and smaller parts Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec, the wine saw 22 months of barrel and oval botti age before bottling. The nose is downright beguiling. Layers of ripe dark currants and mocha mingle with Turkish coffee, blueberry compote and tar give this a feeling of decadence. The palate is fresh and dense, with a seamless texture. Creme de cassis, pipe tobacco, coffee grounds and shades of blackberry pie all come together marvelously on the palate. This deftly walks the tightrope between hedonistic and highly structured. Gorgeous even now at the three year mark after some air, the 2018 Leonetti Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon will be extremely long-aged. Drink 2024-2048- 97

2015 Leonetti Aglianico- The 2015 Leonetti Aglianico is a sensational wine from this somewhat challenging vintage for red wines. This saw a whopping 44 months in terracotta amphorae and new, as well as once filled French oak barrels before bottling. The nose is intense with roasted dates and espresso bean tones alongside boysenberry cordial, tobacco and leather tones, giving plenty of rustic appeal. Now at the six year mark, the vibrant acidity is really impressive, as is the seamless texture. Rich dark fruits and creosote tones mingle with damp earth and tobacco on the palate. Gorgeous now, this has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2038- 94

2018 Leonetti ‘Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2018 Leonetti ‘Reserve’ Red Wine by Chris Figgins might be one of the finest wines ever made by him. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon with equal parts Malbec and Petit Verdot, the wine saw 22 months in new and once used French oak barrels prior to bottling. A brooding, inky purple, this shows its flamboyant side with creosote and espresso bean alongside blueberry compote, black licorice and creme de violette aromatics  hat all take shape in the glass. The palate is plush and impressively tannic, with a seamless texture and dense mouthfeel. One sip and you’ll be sure to find this unbelievably good with its massive core of black and blue fruits. This is a legendary, massive wine that really needs some time in the cellar to tame. Try not to touch this beauty for five years. Drink 2025-2055-  99

J. Lohr

A California winery that has been synonymous with value, J. Lohr has a great history. Starting in the late 1960s, Jerry Lohr began searching for a great location plant his first vineyard. Originally raised on a South Dakota farm, Jerry had a background in agriculture and chose the Central Coast, which was an experimental region at the time. Jerry has created an amazing success story with his winery, J. Lohr. While J. Lohr has gained a nationwide reputation for rich red wines, their white wine portfolio is also has some outstanding values. 

The red wines by J. Lohr were also excellent and displayed wonderful depth and concentration. An outstanding Petite Sirah release is their 2018 J. Lohr ‘Signature’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 92) which is a dense and burly effort that is nearly impossible to resist right now. Even better was the 2016 J. Lohr ‘Cuvee St. E’ Red Wine (OB, 93) which is muscular showing blue fruits and espresso bean notes. Learn more about this outstanding lineup at https://www.jlohr.com Here are the outstanding new wines by J. Lohr. 

2019 J. Lohr Sauvignon Blanc- Bright lemon zest and gooseberry fill the nose. The palate is lithe with a boost of freshness with medium bodied green apple and lemon zest flavors. Drink 2020-2023- 88

2019 J. Lohr ‘Arroyo Seco Monterrey’ Chardonnay- Straightforward buttercream and pear flavors mingle with minerals and a soft texture. Enjoy over the next few years. Drink 2020-2023- 88

2018 J. Lohr ‘October Night’ Chardonnay- The 2018 J. Lohr ‘October Night’ shows toasty oak tones with buttered brioche and shades of lemon cream on the nose. The palate is both bright and plush with a seamless texture. The exceedingly long, lemon cream and mineral-driven finish lingers. Drink 2020-2028- 91

2018 J. Lohr ‘Arroyo Vista’ Chardonnay- Sourced from the ‘Arroyo Vista Vineyard’ which is set on gravelly soil in the Arroyo Seco AVA, this shows good freshness and a soft texture. Layers of Pink Lady apple, vanilla cream and kumquat zest all combine brilliantly on the palate. Drink 2020-2028- 91

2018 J. Lohr Cabernet Sauvignon- This offers generous sweetened red and dark fruit flavors with shades of coffee grounds and sage. Enjoy with BBQ in the short-term. Drink 2020-2023- 86 

2018 J. Lohr Merlot- The 2018 J. Lohr Merlot shows medium bodied kirsch and smoky tones on the palate. Enjoy in the short-term. Drink 2020-2024- 88

2018 J. Lohr ‘Pure Paso’ Red Wine- The ‘Pure Paso’ shows good weight and depth with rich chocolate and black currants that mingle with minerals and smoky undertones on the palate. Full-throttle, this will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another five years. Drink 2020-2025- 89

2018 J. Lohr ‘Paso Robles’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Inky and brooding in the glass, this shows rich dark currents and black raspberry tones on the palate, with shades of coffee grounds. Well-structured, this has some stuffing to cellar well over the next eight years. Drink 2020-2028- 90

2017 J.Lohr ‘Signature’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Inky once in the glass, the ‘Signature’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows a downright opulent mouthfeel. Firm tannins hold in a massive core of dark fruits alongside tobacco leaf, graphite and espresso bean tones. Gorgeous in its youth, this dense and inky effort will provide drinking enjoyment over the next decade or more. Drink 2021-2032- 92

2016 J. Lohr ‘Cuvee Pau’ Red Wine- The 2016 ‘Cuvee Pau’ shows massive tar and anise tones on the nose with a deep core of dark fruits that all take shape in the glass. The palate is dense, showing a gorgeous combination of dark chocolate covered espresso bean, blackberry cobbler and bright minerals with a silky mouthfeel. A complete wine, the 2016 ‘Cuvee Pau’ will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2016 J. Lorh ‘Cuvee St. E’ Red Wine- The 2016 ‘Cuvee St. E’ opens with blueberry compote and Arabica coffee bean aromas with loganberry preserves rounding out this expressive nose. The palate is silky smooth, showing off a soft texture and good sense of elegance. Deep dark fruits collide with shades of tar and black licorice on this beautiful palate. The combination of weight and freshness is really good here. Drink 2020-2032- 93

2016 J. Lohr ‘Cuvee Pom’ Red Wine- The 2016 ‘Cuvee Pom’ is loaded with dark fruits on the nose with espresso bean and creosote tones rounding out this expressive bouquet. The palate is plush, showing off its silky mouthfeel. Layers of cassis, anise, blueberry pie and black licorice all come together beautifully on the palate. With great weight, length and acidity, enjoy this great new wine over the next ten to twelve years. Drink 2020-2032- 93

7 Cellars

NFL legend John Elway is a tireless worker. Whether it was forming a brand of successful car dealerships, or serving as Denver Broncos General Manager and helping guide them to a Super Bowl victory as an executive, John has always been working after his NFL Hall of Fame Career. One of the most exciting days of my early life came early in 1998. As a lifelong Broncos fan I grew up idolizing John Elway and his signature comeback victories.

The Denver Broncos were heavy underdogs on that sunny day in San Diego, but they came up victorious thanks to John Elway’s careful guidance and an acrobatic back flip into the end zone for a touchdown to seal the victory. I’ll never forget that day.

John wasn’t done with his entrepreneurship. John sought to create wines that lived up to the high quality of food at his restaurants, Elway’s Steakhouses. In 2015 Elway partnered with iconic winemaker Rob Mondavi, Jr. to release the company’s first vintage of Reserve wines - 2013 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon and 2014 Carneros Chardonnay. The new Farm Collection launched in 2020 consists of three wine varietals created by 7Cellars winemaker and wine director Mari Coyle, in conjunction with renowned winemakers Rob Mondavi and Tony Coltrin.

I was particularly impressed with the 2019 7 Cellars ‘Carneros’ Chardonnay (OB, 90) which is not for the weary and has good richness and a long finish. Just as good was the 2018 7 Cellars ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 90) which is well-balanced and has plenty of poise for a juicy steak. Learn more about these great new wines at 7cellars.com and here are my reviews of the new 7 Cellars releases.

2018 7 Cellars ‘The Farm’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘The Farm’ Chardonnay shows ripe peach and toasty oak with vanilla cream flavors and baked apple tones on the palate. Enjoy this good value in the short-term. Drink 2021-2024- 88

2019 7 Cellars ‘Carneros’ Chardonnay- The 2019 ‘Carneros’ Chardonnay is a bigger style of Chardonnay than you might anticipate. Rich orchard fruits mingle with sweetened Meyer lemon, butterscotch and Macadamia nut pie on the palate. The long finish is excellent. Drink 2021-2026- 90

2018 7 Cellars ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows tobacco leaf and red bell pepper tones alongside black currants on the nose. The palate is fresh and well-balanced. Medium-bodied dark fruits mingle with menthol and milk chocolate flavors on the palaate. Drink 2021-2028- 90

Morgan

It has now been several years since I’ve had the chance to visit the Santa Lucia Highlands. Windswept and massively influenced by the Pacific Ocean, this is a gorgeous spot for wine lovers to visit. Morgan is one of the long-standing producers in the region. It is hard to believe that the brand started in 1982 by Dan Lee who studied at UC Davis and saw the potential of this region to craft cool climate California Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. 

Dan has received incredible accolades since the inception of his winery, including being San Francisco Chronicle winemaker of the year in 2003. Today the Lee family are now in their second generation, leading the winery. I was very impressed with the new release wines that I tried. Look to the 2018 Morgan ‘Double L’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which is a silky, gorgeous effort with gobs of ripe fruits and really good range. I really enjoyed the juicy 2018 Morgan ‘Twelve Clones’ Pinot Noir (OB, 90) which is great to enjoy right now and will cellar well over the next eight plus years. Learn more about this outstanding producer at https://www.morganwinery.com/ and here are my new reviews of the Morgan wines. 

2019 Morgan Albarino- This shows juicy kiwi and melon fruits alongside a good veil of tension. Enjoy in its youth while the freshness remains. Drink 2021-2024- 88

2019 Morgan ‘Metallico’ Chardonnay- Aged in stainless steel, this shows banana and baked apple tones alongside good freshness and stony minerals. The sense of weight and minerality here works great. Enjoy in its youth. Drink 2021-2024- 89

2018 Morgan ‘Double L Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The ‘Double L Vineyard’ is located in near the northern edge of the Santa Lucia Highlands and is known for the marine influence with massive fog cover both day and night, originally planted back in 1997. Aged in 30% new French oak, this shows off butterscotch and Pazzaz apple on the bouquet alongside nutty and wet earthy tones. The palate is soft and silky with good freshness. Lemon oil and Challah bread tones combine with ripe mango and minerals on the palate. This is seriously good stuff to enjoy in its youth as the beautiful 2018 ‘Double L Vineyard’ Chardonnay will cellar well over the next eight years. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2018 Morgan ‘Highland’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Highland’ Chardonnay shows lovely peat moss tones alongside green apple and bakings spices that all take shape in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant with wonderful tension and length. Vibrant, with good stuffing to back it up, this beautiful wine will cellar well over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2026- 91

2019 Morgan ‘McIntyre Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2019 Morgan ‘McIntyre Vineyard’ Chardonnay is an outstanding new and vibrant bottling that has a long road ahead of it. Once on the nose this takes on buttercream with sourdough bread and papaya tones that are all woven together in the glass. The light dusting of salinity is really nice here, as is the gratifying length and bright veil of tension. This finishes very long. Drink 2021-2028- 91

2018 Morgan ‘Twelve Clones’ Pinot Noir-  The 2018 ‘Twelve Clones’ shows good freshness with medium-bodied pomegranate seed, guava and red cherry candy flavors with earthy undertones on the palate. Showing good length and persistence, this juicy new Pinot Noir will be best enjoyed over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2026- 90

Cuvaison

I attended graduate school in San Diego from 2003-2007. As part of my wine education, I looked for wines that overdelivered for the value. I fondly recall Cuvaison Chardonnay more than fifteen years back that was just superb for the price. In 2004 I was able to visit this gorgeous property with sweeping views of the valley, set in the Carneros region. The site has a very strong wind and maritime influence, and sitting there I was struck by the calm and remoteness of the location. 

It was 1969 when this special location was chosen to craft cool climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Ten years later 400 acres of highly prized land was purchased north of San Pablo Bay in the Los Carneros district of Napa Valley were the winery current stands. Since 200 winemaker Steve Rogstad has been at the helm. I had the great chance to interview him several months back as we talked about his beautiful single vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. He has now been making sparking wine for several years and I loved his 2017 Cuvaison Rose Sparking Wine (OB, 91) which is fresh and linear with bright red fruits. Even better is the gorgeous 2018 Cuvaison ‘Spire’ Pinot Noir (OB, 92) which has amazing range and a great veil of tension, with a soft texture. Learn more about this outstanding Carneros estate at cuvaison.com Here are the fantastic new release wines by Cuvaison. 

2017 Cuvaison Rose Sparkling Wine- A pale, pretty pink, this shows off white flowers with green apple and strawberry aromatically that all take shape in the glass. The verve and delicate mousse as well as stringency really hold things together, as green apple and delicate red fruits collide with minerals on the palate. This would be marvelous with fresh Kusshi oysters. Drink 2021-2027- 91

2019 Cuvaison ‘En Cigare’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2019 ‘En Cigare’ Sauvignon Blanc shows rich baking spices with marzipan and Marcona almond tones on the nose. The palate is rich and fat on the mouth, giving off a wonderfully rich texture. Layers of beeswax and melon fruits mingle with citrus blossom accents on the palate. Great now, this will provide drinking enjoyment for five plus years. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2018 Cuvaison ‘Spire’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Spire’ Pinot Noir is a silky new bottling from Carneros. Aged for sixteen months in 50% new French oak, this takes on a lovely richness mid-palate. Bright red fruits collide with shades of Mandarin orange zest, bergamot, damp earth and black tea tones on the palate. This has terrific freshness and a long finish that rounds out this excellent new bottling. Enjoy the 2018 ‘Spire’ over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030-  92

Dutton-Goldfield

I love great wines from the Russian River Valley. One of the storied properties there, Dutton-Goldfield, dates back to 1998 when colleagues Steve Dutton and Dan Goldfield decided to start a winery together. Steve Dutton is a 5th generation farmer while Dan has a background in chemistry and later completed the illustrious UC Davis program in winemaking. Dan previously worked at Robert Mondavi Winery and even made wine in Portugal for two years before coming back to California and starting Dutton-Goldfield

For many years I have enjoyed tasting at this Russian River Valley outpost. I have been consistently impressed with what they produce for the price and have enjoyed Dutton-Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch’ Chardonnays many years. The wine consistently strikes a balance between opulence and poise. The new release wines were gorgeous. Look for their 2019 Dutton-Goldfield Riesling (OB, 92) which shows an incredible texture and really good finesse. This one of a kind bottling would be an awesome foil for sushi or fresh shellfish. I adored the  2018 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Deviate’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which showcases the Sonoma Coast AVA and its salty terroir, with a lovely red fruit and orange rind profile. Learn more about Dutton-Goldfield at http://www.duttongoldfield.com. Here are the great new releases from Dutton-Goldfield. 

2019 Dutton-Goldfield Riesling- This Chiles Valley bottling has been now made since 2011. The texture here takes your right to Alsace,with sweetened pear and apricot tones alongside kiwi and wet stone. Fresh and vibrant, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next seven years. Wait for the really gratifying finish. Drink 2021-2027- 92

2018 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Morelli Lane Vineyard’ Zinfandel- This awesome Dutton Ranch bottling shows bright acidity with a good core of rich red fruits that mingle with orange zest, and bramble tones on the palate. With a soft texture and good sense of weight, this is pretty hard to resist now and will cellar well for another seven plus years. Drink 2021-2027- 92

2018 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Van Der Kamp Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Located in the Sonoma Mountain AVA, the ‘Van Der Kamp Vineyard’ is a high elevation site known for the strong influence of fog and wind. Ripe red cherry with dill accents and shades of cran-pomegranate fill the nose. The palate is lithe, and medium-bodied with a silky texture. A great core of red fruits and citrus rind tones combine with shades of salty earth. Wonderful to enjoy now, this beautiful new 2018 Pinot Noir will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2018 Dutton- Goldfield ‘Deviate’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from two separate Sonoma Coast AVA vineyards, this shows off gorgeous salty earth tones with cranberry, teaberry and dried herbs that all take shape in the glass. The palate is fresh and viscous with a great veil of tension. Ripe strawberry and orange zest tones combine with pomegranate and salty rose water on the palate. With brilliant length, this outstanding new and terroir-driven Pinot Noir bottling will cellar well for another ten to fifteen years. But why wait? Drink 2021-2031- 93

2018 Dutton-Goldfield. ‘Redwood Ridge Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Located in the Sonoma Coast AVA, the’Redwood Ridge Vineyard’ is set at 1,000 feet and has massive maritime influences. Tart red fruits combine with salty earth and shades of baking spices on the palate. The weight and air of freshness really impresses here, as this great new Pinot Noir will provide drinking enjoyment over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2018 Dutton-Goldfield ‘McDougall Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This new 2018 Pinot Noir is sourced from the McDougall Vineyard, right near the Pacific Ocean and set at a high elevation south-facing ridge in the Fort-Ross Seaview AVA. A great whiff of salty red fruits greets you as this delivers plenty of stuffing mid-palate. Layers of pretty red fruits and salty earth combine with blood orange and shades of white truffle on the palate. Beautiful to enjoy in its youth, this has at least a decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2018 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Emerald Ridge Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Emerald Ridge Vineyard’ is located in the Dutton-Range property in the Green Valley. The wine is beautifully balanced with great length and a fantastic core of pretty red fruits, with kumquat and baking spice accents. Medium- bodied, and full of verve, this outstanding new Pinot Noir will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2031- 92

Ponzi Vineyards

It was the late 1960s when Dick and Nancy Ponzi moved their young family to the Willamette Valley on a mission to make top notch Pinot Noir. After many research trips to Burgundy and an extensive search for the ideal location, they purchased 20 acres on a small farm just southwest of Portland, Oregon. At the time there were few people growing Pinot Noir, but Dick and Nancy saw the potential for the varietal in the Northern Willamette Valley. Truly one of the historic producers of Oregon Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Ponzi Vineyards is now under their second generation with President and Director of Sales and Marketing, Anna Maria Ponzi and Winemaker Luisa Ponzi.

I have long enjoyed these wines since I began tasting in the Willamette Valley in 2002. Ponzi produces two gorgeous Chardonnay bottling that are limited production, their ‘Aurora’ and ‘Avellana’ and I scored both 2018 editions of this wine 92 Points. The 2018 ‘Aurora’ was more dense and rich, while the ‘Avellana’ has even more verve and finesse. Both are outstanding. 

I adored the 2018 Ponzi ‘Abetina 2’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is a decadent treat to savor now and has gorgeous layers off red and dark fruits with great viscosity and tension. This beauty will cellar well for decades to come. Learn more about these outstanding wines at ponzivineyards.com. Here are the great new wines by Ponzi. 

2018 Ponzi ‘Aurora’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Aurora’ Chardonnay underwent 100% malolactic fermentation and saw 20 months in barrel before bottling. Banana, nutmeg and Challah bread all take shape in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant with great tension and a wonderfully oily texture. Viscous and beautiful to enjoy now, this outstanding new effort will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2018 Ponzi ‘Avellana’ Chardonnay- The ‘Avellana’ is sourced from fifteen year old vines that are planted to Dijon clone 76. Like the ‘Aurora’ bottling, this saw 20 months in oak and plenty of battonage prior to bottling. White peach, sourdough bread and baking spices with nutty undertones all fill the nose. The palate is more high-toned than the ‘Aurora’ but every bit as good. Fresh and vibrant, with great acidity and lovely mushroom and damp earth tones, this outstanding new bottling will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another ten years. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2018 Ponzi ‘Tavola’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Tavola’ shows juicy red fruits with a good sense of mouthfeel and finesse. Enjoy in the short-term. Drink 2021-2025- 89

2017 Ponzi ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from a collection in vineyards in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, the ‘Reserve’ shows lovely peat moss with wild blackberry and huckleberry tones on the nose. The palate comes off silky smooth with good finesse and depth. Rich red and dark fruits parade with orange zest, baking spices and wild mushroom tones on the palate. Enjoyable in its youth, be sure to give this an hour or two of air if savoring right now. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2018 Ponzi ‘Avellana’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Avellana’ is sourced from vines planted in 2006, set on Laurelwood soils. Tilled earth and cranberry tones dominate the nose with orange zest and cinnamon tones. The palate is fresh with a great sense of viscosity. Ripe red fruits collide with minerals, persimmon and forest floor undertones. The long finish lingers as the sense of balance here is seriously good.  Gorgeous in its youth, this will provide drinking enjoyment for another decade or more. Drink 2021-2031-  93

2018 Ponzi ‘Abetina 2’ Pinot Noir- The finest wine out of this new Ponzi lineup that I tried, the 2018 ‘Abetina 2’, is sourced from 40 year old Pinot Noir vines and twenty separate clones of Pinot Noir. Aged in 50% new French oak for 20 months, this shows off pomegranate seed and forest floor tones alongside shades of wild blackberry and raspberry coulis with dried herbs that all take shape in the glass. The palate is silky and elegant with great freshness, viscosity and marvelous tension. Layers of very pretty red and dark fruits collide with minerals, smoke, tobacco leaf and peat moss undertones. The gratifying length adds to the enjoyment. Sinfully good in its youth, this beautiful wine will cellar well for another fifteen years — but why wait? Drink 2021-2035- 94 

Caliza

One of the outstanding producers in Paso Robles, Caliza, Spanish for "limestone", connects the name to the 20-acre Caliza vineyard. The vineyard is predominantly comprised of hillsides with south-facing slopes which leads to maximum sun exposure. Set at 900-1200 feet above sea level in Templeton Gap area, the vineyard faces strong diurnal shifts which creates some nice tension in the wines. 

Caliza is spearheaded by Carl and Pam Bowker, who planted near L’Aventure and Booker. This was clearly a smart investment. Carl Bowker graduated from Napa Valley College’s Viticulture and Enology associate program in 2004. One year later he purchased this exciting site. He continues craft wines that are big but showcase brilliant acidity and mouthfeel. I love the new 2016 Calia Roussanne (OB, 93) which saw considerable barrel age and is round and generous. Just as good is the delightful 2018 Caliza Grenache (OB, 93) which is very floral and pretty with a great sense of texture and length. Learn more about this great Paso Robles winery at https://www.calizawinery.com Here are the outstanding new wines by Caliza. 

2016 Caliza Roussanne- The 2016 Caliza Roussane saw some extended aging and shows off its golden hue in the glass. The wine is intense, with honey and beeswax flavors alongside shades of Marcona almond and apricot on the palate. Full-throttle and not for the weary, this packs a viscous punch and has the acidity to back everything up. Gorgeous to savor in its youth, this beautiful wine has another seven years to go. Drink 2021-2027- 93

2019 Caliza Viognier- The 2019 Caliza Viognier shows beautiful honeysuckle tones alongside cantaloupe, wet stone and green apple on this great bouquet. The palate shows off a rich texture with gobs of mouth-watering acidity that cascade through a core of apple, kiwi and melon fruits. This is seriously good stuff by the talented Carl Bowker that is a slice of sunshine. Drink 2021-2026- 92

2018 Caliza ‘Azimuth’ Red Wine-  A compelling blend of 50% Mourvedre with smaller parts Grenacheand Surah, this shows red rose petals with red currants and red cherry candy with orange rind tones on the nose. The palate has a great core of red and dark fruits with stony minerals and citrus rind tones. This is sensational in its youth and will cellar well for ten to fifteen years. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2018 Caliza Grenache- This 100% Grenache wine was aged in 42% concrete before bottling. Orange blossom with ripe guava and strawberry tones fill the nose. The freshness and texture of thew wine is really outstanding as brilliant and bright red fruits collide with minerals, blood orange zest and stony undertones. This has good density but also comes off as very pretty wine. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2018 Caliza Mourvedre- The nose here is smoky and downright awesome with its core of roasted figs, coffee grounds and bulls blood with white pepper tones. The palate is lithe and very light on its feet. The freshness of thew wine almost takes you back.Rich dark currants and blackberry compote mingle with smoked brisket and milk chocolate on the palate. This has really good length, finesse and richness. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2018 Caliza ‘Sympatico’ Red Wine- The ‘Sympatico’ red wine is a gorgeous new bottling made of mostly Tempranillo with a small amount of Grenache blended in. The nose is delightfully smoky and savory with bacon fat, tar, black licorice and loamy soils. The mid-palate ripeness and tension here is outstanding. The firm tannins hold the core of dark fruits and coffee grounds together. This is brilliant stuff to enjoy over the next ten plus years. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2018 Caliza Primitivo- This novel Zinfandel is truly an amazing effort from this great vintage in Paso Robles. The combination of weight and acidity here is truly amazing. Layers of ripe dark currants, tobacco leaf, roasted dates and espressos bean with blueberry tone all brilliantly meld in the glass. Fresh and vibrant with incredible tension, this beautiful wine will enjoy another ten to fifteen years ahead of it. Drink 2021-2033- 94

TOR

I have long admired the wines of Tor Kenward. Although I admit to trying them at not your typical locations. Several years back I was in London for business and I walked into one of the world’s great wine shops in Mayfair. Hedonism Wines. Downstairs they have roughly thirty wines on Enomatic, including iconic wines like Chateau D’Yquem, Sine Qua Non, etc. Under one of the machines was an aged TOR Chardonnay. Sampling that wine I was so impressed with the level of refinement, with everything just right in balance — fruit, non-fruit, earthy tones, viscosity and tension. I remember thinking to myself ‘Wow, TOR makes some incredible reds but he makes a really superlative Chardonnay.’

You might not know that Tor spent 26 years with Beringer Vineyards, becoming their vice president. Tor was an instrumental figure in building that brand into a national icon before retiring in 2001. For years the Beringer Reserve wines were truly some of the finest in Napa and Tor played a major role in that project. Beringer actually paid for Tor to study viticulture and enology following his retirement, as Tor built his brand as an ultra-premium producer single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons, sourcing from the top blocks within premium sites throughout Napa Valley. The current TOR lineup sources from esteemed sites such as Beckstoffer’s To Kalon, Vine Hill Ranch and Tierra Roja in Oakville, and Melanson on Pritchard Hill.

I was blown away with the new TOR wines. One of the outstanding Napa Chardonnays I have tried over the past year, the 2019 TOR ‘Twelve Barrels’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) is seamless, showing incredible texture, viscosity and freshness. Even better is the sinfully good 2018 TOR ‘Tierra Roja Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 97) which screams terroir with its scorched earth tones and loamy soil with espresso bean flavors. This is one for any serious collector of Napa Cabernet. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://torwines.com Here are the gorgeous new wines by TOR. 

2019 TOR ‘Twelve Barrels Carneros’ Chardonnay- The 2019 TOR ‘Twelve Barrels’ Chardonnay shows up brightly once in the glass. Heady aromatics of bananas foster and ripe nectarine combine with baking spice infused Challah bread and shades of wild mushroom on this beautiful bouquet. Once on the mouth you experience an utterly seamless effect as this beautiful wine effortless glides across the mid-palate. Layers of banana and pineapple are woven together with minerals, damp earth and sourdough bread tones. The gratifying length here adds to the enjoyment. Gorgeous to savor in its youth, this outstanding new bottling will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2035- 95

2018 TOR ‘Tierra Roja Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The utterly fantastic 2018 ‘Tierra Roja Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a wine that quite simply screams terroir. The Tierra Roda vineyard is a four-acre hillside vineyard with close proximity to Screaming Eagle and Maya. The hedonistic nose really impresses as dark currents and scorched earth tones combine with dark chocolate covered espresso bean, loamy soils and shades of creosote. The palate brilliantly showcases power and finesse. This shows good weight but comes off as silky smooth, with layers of rich dark and blue fruits that mingle with minerals, sweet pipe tobacco, creosote, dark chocolate pie and damp loamy undertones. The long finish provides the perfect crescendo, as this beautiful 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon will enjoy a very long life ahead of it. Drink 2023-2045- 97

2018 TOR ‘Melanson Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The famed ‘Melanson Vineyard’ is located on Pritchard Hill, and is adjacent to Colgin Winery.  Set on Sobrante loam soil studded with volcanic rock high-elevation site has a great influence from costal breezes. Once on the nose this evokes seriously good aromatic range from loamy soils to blackberry compote and black tea with exotic spices, as well as tar and baking spice undertones that all meld in the glass. The palate is plush and seductive with a gorgeous, round mouthfeel. Layers of black and blue fruits collide with Turkish coffee, smoke, minerals and dark chocolate tones on the palate. Like the ‘Tierra Roja’ this shows wonderful length and persistence. Just slowly settling in, the brilliant 2018 Tor ‘Melanson Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon will provide drinking enjoyment for many decades to come. Drink 2023-2045- 96