“We need to do a vertical” Ben Smith proclaimed to me, the last time we were visiting in the summer. “I am game” I said, chomping at the bit to revisit some of the great wines made in Washington State. Cadence was originally known for being the first Washington winery to focus exclusively on red blends. He and his partner, Gaye McNutt, started Cadence together in the late 1990s. It was a time when few people shared his business model. “You go in a wine shop back then and there was no blends section. And that was a marketing challenge when we released our wines” Ben said. “Most restaurants didn’t even have a blend section back then” he explained.
Wine was a love language for Ben and Gaye, who were both entrenched in wine when they began dating in the 90s. “One of our first dates was to pick grapes” Ben stated. “I’ll admit, it was a little weird to be picking grapes on a date” said Gaye. Over time they developed their winemaking style “And now we can taste them today because of that” Gale said. They began creating their wines from the warmest sites in the state, on Red Mountain. This helped them in cooler years such as 2011. Where most wineries struggled with depth, Gaye noted “2011 really suited our style” she said. And when asked what their favorite wines they’ve made over their history? “2011 definitely” they both explained.
It was a true pleasure going back and revisiting these wines. I’ve tasted many of these wines previously either with friends, for review or for my personal collection. The newest wines from the 2014 vintage are absolutely singing. The 2014 ‘Bel Canto’ (OB, 96) shows off heady red and dark fruits, with very pretty florals. This is a joy to drink right now. I really loved the 2012 ‘Bel Canto’ (OB, 96) which is a bit less dense and more towards texture — a touch more Bordelaise. Similarly, the 2011 ‘Bel Canto’ (OB, 94) is singing at its high octave now, a touch leaner than the aforementioned wines but still showing plenty of stuffing with a gliding drinking experience.
The older wines that Ben and Gaye poured were marvelous. I was totally enamored by the 1999 Cadence ‘Red Wine’ (OB, 93) which is silky and elegant with plenty of tertiary notes. A knockout wine from a slightly cooler vintage, the 2004 ‘Bel Canto’ (OB, 96) is one of the great wines that I have tasted from this vintage. It is plush, very refined and elegant now at nearly twenty years.
Many thanks to Ben and Gaye for graciously hosting me and other critics. Here are my reviews of the incredible collection of wines by Cadence (cadencewinery.com).
2021 Cadence Chardonnay- Coming from the Chehalem Mountains AVA, this single vineyard Chardonnay comes off very soft on the mouth with layers of creme brûlée, sweet peach and suggestions ripe Japanese pear with copious minerals. This shows a great combination of weight and length. Drink 2023-2029- 92
2014 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (86%) with the remainder Cabernet Franc, this shows off beautiful black tea and black currant aromas that combine with shades of black olives and black cherry compote. The palate is deep and concentrated with fantastic underlying finesse. This has a great acid backbone, with refined tannins and a wonderful core of dark fruits. This is absolutely singing now. Drink 2023-2040- 95
2014 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- A blend of mostly Cabernet Franc (50%) with 38% Merlot and the remainder Petit Verdot, this offers beautiful red florals that combine with shades of Asian spices, sandalwood and suggestions of boysenberry cordial. This comes off very fresh and pure, with a seamless texture. Finishing long with juicy red and dark fruits, with espresso grounds, this is truly a glorious wine to consume right now. Drink 2023-2040- 96
2012 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- From this very classic vintage, the 2012 ‘Camerata’ is an outstanding blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Cabernet Franc. This shows beautiful pruple rose petals alongside coffee grounds, wild blackberry and hints of chocolate fudge. The palate shows great richness and underlying tension, as this is aging gracefully now — and has a long way to go. Drink 2023-2040- 96
2012 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- The 2012 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ is nearly all Cabernet Franc (84%), as this displays ripe red raspberry and garrigue notes alongside exotic spices and hints of potpourri. The palate is powerful and soft with refined tannins and bright underlying acidity. Pencil lead, violets and espresso grounds combine with the deep core of red and dark fruits. Delicious to consume now, this has decades of life in front of it. Drink 2023-2040- 96
2011 Cadence ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine- Coming from the coolest site that they purchase fruit from, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, the 2011 ‘Ciel du Coeval’ shows a soft mouthfeel on the palate, with bright underlying acidity. Leaner and more herbal than the 2012s or 2014s, this has a nice core of medium-bodied dark fruits with milk chocolate notes. Very balanced, enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 92
2011 Cadence ‘Tapteil’ Red Wine- This comes from this windy, southwestern facing set on Red Mountain. This wine combines 59% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Cabernet Franc and Merlot. This shows better flavor density than the ‘Ciel du Cheval’ with ripe red raspberry and dark currant tones alongside chocolate covered Arabica bean and shades of tar. This is really good now. Drink 2023-2030- 93
2011 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- The 2011 ‘Camerata’ is 79% Cabernet Sauvignon with one barrel each Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Rose water and dark currants combine with scorched earth and sagebrush notes on the palate. This shows good depth and concentration and is really peaking right now. Drink 2023-2030- 93
2011 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- Very herbal on the nose, the 2011 ‘Bel Canto’ combines 84% Cabernet Franc with 8% Merlot and 8% Petit Verdot. Dried mint and shades of tar combine with red florals on the nose. This is very well-balanced and pretty, with good underlying finesse and concentration considering the coolness of the vintage. Drink 2023-2030- 94
2008 Cadence ‘Tapteil’ Red Wine- A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon with the reminder Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this was stored in 40% new French oak before bottling. Right away this shows off its soft mouthfeel with layers of refined tannins. Layers of ripe blackberry and black cherry notes combine with coffee grounds and scorched earth notes. Complex and delicious, with plenty of concentration, enjoy this now and over the next seven plus years to come. Drink 2023-2032- 94
2008 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- The wonderfully alluring 2008 ‘Camerata’ was poured at the White House Thanksgiving dinner in 2011. This is wonderfully herbal on the nose with garrigue notes that combine with milk chocolate and blackberry cobbler. The palate is impeccably balanced, with fantastic underlying finesse and plenty of depth. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon with 13% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot and 4% Merlot. Drink 2023-2035- 95
2006 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- It was back in 1997 that they brought the ten acre ‘Cara Mia’ property on Red Mountain and it wasn’t until 2003 that they were able to get the water rights. This was made with third leaf fruit that was planted in 2004. Black licorice and blackberry pie combine with scorched earth notes and shades of sagebrush. This has salty and savory notes with impeccable balance. Enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2023-2033- 95
2006 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- This beautiful wine has a lower percentage of Cabernet Franc (52%) than normal, with the remainder Merlot. Roasted figs, pencil lead, and red florals all combine on the nose. The palate is soft and refined tannins that frame a beautiful core of red and dark fruits, with tobacco leaf and tar notes. Fantastic now, enjoy this beauty over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 95
2005 Cadence ‘Tapteil’ Red Wine- The vintage had some frost damage to start, which lowered yields. Suggestions of creosote with dense dark fruits combine with dark chocolate shavings and pencil lead all mark the nose. The palate is deep and concentrated with fantastic underlying finesse and serious flavor density. A knockout, this will live on for at least another decade. Drink 2023-2035- 95
2005 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- Very fragrant and pretty on the nose, the 2005 ‘Bel Canto’ combines 50% Cabernet Franc with 42% Merlot and the remainder Petit Verdot. This is the last vintage blending from Klipsun, Ciel Du Cheval and Tapteil. Very supple on the mouth, with fantastic salty undertones, this exudes class with red rose water, graphite, wild blackberry, garrigue and exotic spice notes. A world-class wine that is best consumed now and over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 96
2004 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- The 2004 ‘Bel Canto’ combines 50% Cabernet Franc with 40% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. Rich dates and black tea notes combine on this knockout nose with blackberries, dark rose petals and espresso grounds. The palate is viscous with impeccable balance and great weight considering the coolness of the vintage. Finishing long with dark currants and tilled soils, this elegant wine is drinking marvelously now. Drink 2023-2033- 96
2001 Cadence ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine- A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a large portion of Petit Verdot (15%), it is hard to believe that this wine was made 22 years ago. Bandaid notes and shades of truffle combine wth red currants on the nose. The palate is seamless and soft with refined tannins that frame a pretty core of red fruits. This as some really nice viscosity and tension. Remarkably youthful, enjoy this beauty now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 94
2001 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- Notes of salty soils and white truffle combine with black currant and coffee grounds meld together on the nose. This comes off exceedingly fresh with good flavor density and length, finishing strong with dried herbs, blackberries and copious minerals. Enjoy now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 94
1999 Cadence ‘Reserve’ Red Wine- The ‘Reserve’ was a barrel selection wine that was Cabernet Sauvignon based. Espresso grounds and dark currants combine with loamy soils on the nose. The palate is soft and shows bright acidity with layers of black fruits and salty undercurrents.A blend of Spring Valley, Tapteil and Ciel du Cheval vineyards. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 92
1999 Cadence ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine- Showing a good core, the 1999 Cadence ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this is the first vineyard designate from this vineyard. Right away this displays dusty earth and graphite notes on the nose with shades of black licorice on the nose. Very soft and refined on the mouth, this shows excellent length and weight. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 93
1998 Cadence ‘Spring Valley Vineyard’ Red Wine- Made from 70% Merlot with the remainder Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc that was sourced from third leaf fruit. Very soft on the mouth, this delivers refined tannins that combine with red licorice, red cherry and raspberry notes, with freshly tilled soils. Fresh and refined, enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 92
1998 Cadence ‘Tapteil’ Red Wine- Ben Smith had been using this vineyard site since the 1994 vintage. 49% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller portions Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. This is very fresh and concentrated with a good core of dark fruits, with tobacco leaf and coffee grounds. This is really good to consume right now. Drink 2023-2028- 93
