Beaux Frères

As our day in Oregon wine rolls on, we share one of the most illustrious Oregon estates located in the Ribbon Ridge AVA, Beaux Frères was founded by Michael Etzel more than twenty years ago. While on vacation in 1986 Michael came across an 88 acre pig farm and after some consideration he decided to purchase the land with his brother in law, Robert Parker — and the rest became Oregon wine history. Michael focused on his job as vineyard manager by planting Pinot Noir in the Ribbon Ridge AVA and while planting his vineyard he interned at Ponzi Winery. It was all the way back in 1990, that Michael harvested his first estate fruit and sold the grapes winemakers Ken Wright and Dick Ponzi. Michael decided there was something special with his vineyard and began making focused, mineral-driven Pinot Noirs from this special site. The wines were subsequently reviewed with incredible acclaim.

Over the years I have had the chance to sample these beautiful wines and have been incredibly impressed with their overall quality and purity of red fruit character. There is also a continuous vein of pretty red floral character that runs through these wines. Beaux Frères is also the only winery in Oregon that does not send me wine to review, as they prefer to meet in person at their winery. This new release was captured and shared by a friend. The 2021 Beaux Frères ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) brilliantly showcases this warm vintage. Ripe red fruits parade with a seamless texture and wonderful depth and elegance. This is a knockout wine. Learn more about this famed winery at beauxfreres.com and here is my review of the new 2021 Beaux Freres Pinot Noir

2021 Beaux Frères ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The elegant, seamless and captivating 2021 ‘Willmette Valley’ Pinot Noir is another stunning edition of this wine by Beaux Freres. Once on the nose the class red rose petal character shines through alongside cigar box, red currants and shades of orange peel. Lithe and polished, with a silky mouthfeel, this shows a great combination of nerve and weight. This is quite primary on the palate right now but will gain considerably complexity while this ages gracefully over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2023-2038- 95

Stoller, Chehalem and Chemistry

Today we continue our journey of Oregon wine. Bill Stoller is an Oregon wine visionary. His namesake winery, Stoller, dates back to 1993 when Bill Stoller acquired a family property from his cousin. Immediately Stoller saw potential to grow world class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Two years after the acquisition he planted 10 acres each of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and fast forward to today the vineyard is now the largest contiguous vineyard in Oregon's Dundee Hills. The property spans 400 acres, with 225 acres focused on growing vines at elevations ranging from 220 to 640 feet. Ten varietals are planted in this vineyard, including Viognier, Pinot Meunier and even Aligote. 

Chehalem winemaker Katie Santora has created another beautiful Rose as well. I adored the 2022 Chehalem Rose (OB, 91) which very fresh and shows tart red fruit flavors. Learn more about this outstanding Oregon winery at https://www.stollerfamilyestate.com and chehalemwines.com and here are my reviews of the the beautiful new wines by Stoller, Chehalem and Chemistry.

2022 Chemistry Sauvignon Blanc- This Columbia Valley offering shows Japanese pear, green papaya, gooseberry and stony minerals on the palate, with a smooth texture. Enjoy this outstanding value now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2026- 90

2022 Chemistry ‘Oregon’ Pinot Gris- Very approachable once on the mouth, the 2022 Chemistry Pinot Gris shows straightforward starfruit and pear notes with plenty of bright acidity to back things up. Drink 2023-2026- 89

2022 Chehalem Pinot Gris- The 2022 Pinot Gris by Chehalem is smooth on the mouth with white peach, green apple and copious minerals on the palate. Enjoy this excellent value now. Drink 2023-2027- 90

2022 Chehalem ‘Inox’ Chardonnay- The 2022 ‘Inox’ was stored in stainless steel before bottling. It displays loads of bright acidity with vanilla cream, pear and pink grapefruit flavors alongside the good level of tension on the palate. Finishing long with copious minerals, enjoy now and over the next several years. This is a great foil for fresh oysters. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2022 Stoller Chardonnay- The outstanding 2022 Stoller Chardonnay shows a soft mouthfeel and is brimming with bright acidity. Layers of Pink Lady apple, brioche and shades of kumquat all come together nicely on the palate. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2022 Stoller Rose- Really good from this slightly cooler vintage, the 2022 Stoller Rose shows gobs of finesse with citrus rind, gooseberry and melon flavors alongside hints of wild strawberry. Nicely textured, this is great, mouth-watering Rose to enjoy now. Drink 2023-2027- 91

2022 Chehalem Rose- Made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes, the 2022 Chehalem Rose offers a soft texture with very juicy guava, red currant and salmonberry flavors on the palate. Fresh and vibrant, with plenty of finesse, enjoy now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2027- 91

Toil Oregon

As part of our only Oregon event today we share one of the great newcomers to the Willamette Valley. Easily one of the finest producers of Rose wines in Oregon, Toil Oregon is the brainchild of famed Leonetti winemaker Chris Figgins who planted his vineyard in the Willamette Valley nearly a decade ago. Toil Oregon started with a production of 200 cases then in 2016 Chris planted his estate vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. His first wine fully from his estate vineyard was the 2019 Rose.

These wines have gotten better and better with time. Chris’s Rose wines are very serious. They are very brightly colored but also show incredible flavor density and nuance in flavor, reminiscent of the greats from Provence like Domaine Ott and Domaine Tempier. He is able to capture fantastic fruit and non-fruit tones as well as vibrant acidity.

I was completely enamored with his 2022 Toil Oregon Rose (OB, 93) which is one of the top Rose wines that I have tasted in the past year. Do not miss out on the 2021 Toil Oregon ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is very dense and has some fantastic aging potential.  Learn more about this great winery at toiloregon.com Here are the brilliant new wines by Toil Oregon. 

2021 Toil Oregon Chardonnay- The 2021 Toil Oregon Chardonnay comes from the Toil Estate Vineyard and was stored in only 18% new French oak barrels before bottling. It is very ripe and showing a luxurious texture with serious weight. Buttercream and rich melons combine with shades of lemon rind and flinty and salty accents on the palate. Very complex and also very delicious, this warm vintage Chardonnay is already drinking marvelously now at the two year mark. Enjoy now and over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2021 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir- Very dark in the glass compared to other vintages, the 2021 Toil Pinot Noir is a delicious warm vintage wine that was stored in only 15% new French oak before bottling. It comes off very pure with ripe cranberry, pomegranate seed and Yakima cherry flavors alongside freshly tilled soils and a light dusting of salinity. Very fresh and fragrant, this is delicious wine in its vibrant youth and one that will be gratifying for more than a decade to come. Drink 2023-2037- 93

2021 Toil Oregon ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir- This is a new wine made by winemaker Chris Figgins, as the 2021 ‘Reserve’ shows off an even darker color than the 2021 Pinot Noir. Rich loganberry and cranberry flavors meld together with volcanic soils, ripe Satsuma orange and suggestions of black tea on the palate. This shows seriously good length with lots of weight and bright acidity holding things together. Enjoy this over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2022 Toil Oregon Rose- This 100% Pinot Noir Rose was stored in stainless steel before bottling. A bright pink color once in the glass, this offers serious range on the nose from wild mushroom and ripe strawberry and red raspberry tones that combine with stony minerals and suggestions of fresh cantaloupe. The palate is soft and very gratifying on the mouth, with a soft mouthfeel. Finishing long with serious length, this is gorgeous, highly nuanced new Rose that has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2030- 93

Hyland Estates

Today as part of our only Oregon event we share one of the great older sites in the Willamette Valley. A historic vineyard, Hyland Estates was first planted in 1971 by four families working together (the Kreimeyers, Markleys, Welches, and Trenhailes). A very large site in the McMinnville AVA, the vineyard spans over 200 acres with roughly 185 acres under vine; making it one of Oregon's oldest and largest vineyards.

The site is located at roughly 600-800 feet and is located on a south facing bench which benefits from cool breezes. The soil type is volcanic Jory soil holding which somewhat mirrors the red dirt of the Dundee Hills AVA. Pinot Noir vines planted are  old, self-rooted Pommard, Wädenswil, and Coury Pinot Noir vines together with newer plantings in 1989 to Dijon 115.

I loved the wines from this site which were consistently great across the board. Look to the outstanding 2021 Hyland Estates ‘Wadenswil’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which is rich and viscous showing serious flavor range. Learn more about this outstanding winery at https://www.hylandestateswinery.com and here are my reviews of the new Hyland Estates wines.

2021 Hyland Estates ‘Single Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2021 ‘Single Vineyard’ Chardonnay was stored in 20% new French oak before bottling. Juicy pear, kiwi and starfruit flavors combine with minerals and a light dusting of cream on the finish. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2021 Hyland Estates ‘Single Clone Dijon 115’ Pinot Noir- The Dijon 115 Pinot Noir by Hyland Estates comes from vines set in mostly Jory soils. Ripe red currants combine with salmonberry, garrigue and freshly tilled soil notes on the nose. Very juicy and fruity on the palate, this makes you wonder if this had a touch of carbonic maceration. Enjoy this very Beajo v. Oregon wine now! Drink 2023-2029- 91

2021 Hyland Estates ‘Old Vine’ Pinot Noir- This is sourced from their estate vineyard first planted back in 1971. Tart cranberry, damp soils and teaberry notes all combine on the nose. Fresh and fragrant, enjoy this forward and juicy Pinot Noir over the next few years. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2021 Hyland Estates ‘Petit Estate’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Petit Estate’ is a collection of their younger vines. This comes off a touch lean and linear with lighter-bodied red fruits with orange peel and suggestions of salty soils. Drink 2023-2029- 90

2021 Hyland Estates ‘Wadenswil’ Pinot Noir- This single clone 2021 Pinot Noir shows bergamot tones on the nose with Mandarin orange zest, white rose petals and suggestions of red cherry compote. Coming off a touch linear, this shows really good underlying finesse that brings everything together marvelously. White truffle crudo, cigar box and tart red fruits greet you on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2021 Hyland Estates ‘Coury’ Pinot Noir- The single clone ‘Coury’ comes from the oldest blocks in the Hyland Estates Vineyard. This comes off very earthy and Burgundian on the nose with tilled soils and peat moss notes alongside shades of pomegranate seed. The palate is very fresh and shows good underlying finesse. Very geeky in its citrus and sour cherry notes, with copious minerals, this is delicious now and will live on for at least another ten years. Drink 2023-2035- 93

2021 Hyland Estates ‘Pommard’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 Hyland Estates ‘Pommard’ Pinot Noir offers shades of black truffle on the nose with volcanic soils, and wild blackberry tones. The palate is soft and refined with good elegance and underlying acidity. Finishing long with black fruits and minerals, this is delicious wine to savor now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2035- 93

2021 Hyland Estates ‘Dijon 115’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 Hyland Estates ‘Dijon 115’ Pinot Noir offers cranberry and mulberry notes on the nose with cloves and dusty soils. The palate is soft and refined, with plenty of great mouth-watering acidity. Finishing long, this is gorgeous stuff to consume in its vibrant youth. Drink 2023-2033- 92

2021 Hyland Estates ‘Founders Selection’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 “Founders Selection’ is the finest wine of this lineup which is a selection of four barrels from this vintage. This is very soft and seamless on the mouth, with guava, cran-cherry and red raspberry flavors with plenty of stony minerals. Enjoy now and over the next twelve plus years. Drink 2023-2035- 93

Adelsheim

Today is filled with only Oregon features. We share one of the oldest estates in Oregon, dating back to 1971. Adelsheim’s roots began in the north of the Willamette Valley in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. Visionary David Adelsheim had previously worked in Beaune as well as The Eyrie Vineyards before starting his own winery in Oregon. Having spent time in Burgundy, he saw the potential for producing Pinot Noir in Oregon. Today Adelsheim now owns nearly 200 acres of land, with 180 acres of vineyards as they produce a brilliant range of wines — from Rose to stony Pinot Noir. Vineyard sites range from high elevation to low elevation, as well as volcanic and sedimentary soils.

I’ve met with their talented head winemaker, Gina Hennen, several times who has been at Adelsheim for more than a decade. Gina previously worked as semiconductor engineer for seven years in both Oregon and Dublin, Ireland. A former graduate of Reed College, Gina knew that her roots were in the Pacific Northwest and found her calling in winemaking.

Her new wines were brilliant across the board. I was very impressed with her 2020 Adelsheim ‘Staking Claim’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is a beautiful wine made from a tough vintage. Even better is the incredible I was really impressed by her 2021 Adelsheim ‘Ribbon Springs Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which is incredibly salty and shows a gorgeous core of very pure red fruits. Learn more about these beautiful new releases at http://www.adelsheim.com Here are the excellent new release wines by Adelsheim. 

2022 Adelsheim Rose- Made entirely from Willamette Valley Pinot Noir grapes, this 2022 Rose offers red raspberry and red cherry alongside kiwi notes on the palate. Drink now while the brightness remains intact. Drink 2023-2028- 90

2021 Adelsheim ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay-  A nice warm vintage value, the 2021 ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay offers baked pear and apple flavors alongside bright acidity on the palate. Medium-bodied, and neatly textured, with cardamom and salty accents, enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2020 Adelsheim ‘Staking Claim’ Chardonnay- A great wine made in a tough vintage, the 2020 ‘Staking Claim’ Chardonnay was entirely sourced from the Chehalem Mountain AVA.  Beautifully textured, this comes off very clean with fresh cut lime, vanilla cream, buttered French bread and shades of banana on the palate. Don’t serve too cold to take in the outstanding range of flavors. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2021 Adelsheim ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir delivers plenty of juicy ripe pomegranate and guava fruits from this warm vintage. Layers of citrus rind and tobacco leaf add to the intrigue, as this beautiful wine is best enjoyed now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2021 Adelsheim ‘Breaking Ground’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Breaking Ground’ is a tribute to the Chehalem Mountain AVA where David Adelshiem first planted back in 1978. This is a lively and delicious 2021 Pinot Noir, loaded with tart cranberry and black raspberry flavors alongside stony undertones, with hints of black truffle. Delicious and showing good range both on the nose and mouth, enjoy this beauty now and over the next ten years to come. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2021 Adelsheim ‘Ribbon Springs Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The Ribbon Springs Vineyard is the largest of the Adelsheim estate vineyards and is set on marine sedimentary soils. This scintillating 2021 Pinot Noir comes off very pretty and wonderfully salty on the palate, yielding tart pomegranate seed and salmonberry flavors that combine with ripe strawberry and blood orange zest notes. Beautifully textured, this deep and concentrated Pinot Noir is an absolutely gorgeous effort from this warm vintage. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2021 Adelsheim ‘Laurel Leaf Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The Laurel Leaf Vineyard is neighboring Bald Peak which is the highest point in the Willamette Valley. Set on Laurelwood soils, this beautiful 2021 Pinot Noir displays plenty of stony tension once on the mouth. Sandalwood and crunchy red fruit flavors greet you alongside shades of wet stone and pink grapefruit zest on the palate. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2021 Adelsheim ‘Boulder Bluff Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 ‘Boulder Bluff’ Pinot Noir comes from this site that is set on a steep, southern aspect in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. This shows stony tones on the palate, with rich huckleberry and wild blackberry tones alongside shades of wet gravel. Highly enjoyable now, this will live on for another decade or more. Drink 2023-2038- 94

Cobb Wines

Sitting across from famed and very jet-lagged winemaker Ross Cobb, he mentioned the challenges that he encountered in the dreaded 2020 vintage. “We didn’t make any Pinot Noir in 2020” said Ross Cobb. “We had two days of intense smoke and that was enough to make it so we could not make any Pinot sadly” he said. 2020 was a disaster for many Sonoma County producers. “We made white wines but no red wines. The whites were really good” Ross explained. He is very bullish on 2021 and 2022, with 2022 showing some massive potential in terms of power and weight.

For those who are less familiar with this brand, Cobb Wines focuses on the incredible salty terroir of the Sonoma Coast AVA. Cobb Wines was founded by Ross’s father, David Cobb, in 2001. Their story has a long history beginning in 1989 when David Cobb began cultivating Pinot Noir vines at his small Coastlands Vineyard, perched literally right overlooking the Sonoma coast. Cobb Wines combines the wine-growing prowess of David Cobb—one of the first big players in Pinot Noir viticulture on the far Sonoma Coast—with the winemaking talents of his son, Ross. Ross has a long resume, including previous stints at famed producers Ferrari-Carano, and Williams Selyem, where he served as viticulturist and enologist.

Only 130 cases of Cobb Wines were made with their first 2001 vintage. Now their production has increased considerably. I love the wines from the 2019 vintage. The salty terroir that he is able to extract makes these truly one of a kind. Look to the 2019 Cobb Wines ‘Coastlands Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 96) is one of the finest wines that you will taste from the Sonoma Coast AVA, showing insanely good tension and nerve, with fantastic texture and flavor range.  Learn more about these brilliant Pinot Noirs at http://cobbwines.com Here are the outstanding  new releases from Cobb.

2021 Cobb Wines Riesling- Sourced from a site in Anderson Valley, this is beautifully textured stuff with serious weight. Layers of gooseberry, green apple and beeswax notes combine on the palate. This is serious stuff that will cellar well for another eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Cobb Wines ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir- This is the first vintage with the new label, as this is also a new wine that is a blend of all of Ross Cobb’s vineyard designates. Very perfumed with red rose petals and candied red fruits, this shows nice earthy undertones as well. The palate shows gobs of crunchy red fruits with citrus water and shades of salty earth. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2019 Cobb ‘Kiser Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This site utilizes Dijon clone 114 and 115, as this underwent 35% whole cluster fermentation. The wine shows intense damp soil character with stony undertones and a beautiful core of red fruits. Incredibly complex, with serious finesse, this is beautiful wine that is already nicely evolved. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2019 Cobb ‘Wendling Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This is located right across the street from the Kizer Vineyard, as this had 35% whole cluster fermentation. Purple rose petals combine with a dusting of white pepper, red currants and tobacco leaf with silty soils emerge on the nose. The palate has incredible verve and underlying weight. Heady, salty red and dark fruits combine with the prominent wet soil aspects on the palate. Marvelous now, this will cellar well for another fifteen years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2019 Cobb ‘Swan and Calera Clone Doc’s Ranch Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 Cobb ‘Swan and Calera Clone Doc’s Ranch Vineyard’ Pinot Noir comes from vines planted back in 1998 and 2011. This tightly spaced spot is very close to the Pacific Ocean. This clonal selections wine has very pretty rose petal notes on the nose alongside blood orange zest and salty soils. The palate is lithe and polished with exotic spices, copious minerals and pomegranate seed flavors with shades of crushed wet rock. Very serious and nervy, this beauty will cellar well for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 96

2019 Cobb ‘Coastlands Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This 50% whole cluster Pinot Noir comes from this site near the Pacific Ocean which was planted back in 1998. This has Pommard, Mt. Eden and Wadenswil clonal selections as well as Martini selection. Very salty and savory on the nose, this takes on pretty guava fruits alongside wild strawberry, potpourri and fresh sage. The palate is incredibly fresh and vibrant with marvelous tension. The purity of salty red fruits on the palate really impress here, as this beautiful wine will cellar well for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 96

2019 Cobb ‘Old Firs Coastlands Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Old Firs’ is named for the Douglass Firs that remain at this property. This underwent 60% whole cluster fermentation. There are cedar notes from the closeness to the trees on the nose, with red currants, red cherry candy, and kumquat zest notes, with freshly tilled salty soils. The palate is plush and soft with serious finesse and length. Very pretty in its guava fruit profile on the palate, this finishes long with copious minerals. Drink 2023-2038- 96

2019 Cobb ‘Diane Cobb Coastlands Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The really good 2019 Cobb ‘Diane Cobb Coastlands Vineyard’ Pinot Noir comes from this site, planted back in 1989, which has a wide range of Pinot Noir clones. The Pinot Noir was 60% whole cluster fermented and it comes off very polished and seamless on the palate, loaded with bright red fruits, kumquat zest, sandy soils and copious baking spices. Finishing long, this is beautiful Pinot Noir that will cellar well for decades to come. Drink 2023-2038- 96

Massalto

I am a sucker for the unabashedly bold wines of Washington State. Just as the name suggests, Massalto is a bigger style of Washington wine that is crafted by Matias Kusulas. Michael Ruhland, and winemaker Kusulas have founded this project that is now has been running for several years. The first wines were not as good as what is currently released — these have improved considerably since the winery’s inception.

Matias sources from some top sites in the Royal Slope AVA, including the Thunderstone and Stoneridge Vineyards. The wines are unabashedly large but also show wonderful minerality to back things up.

Matias was very excited about the new wines when I tasted with him. I absolutely adored the new 2020 Massalto ‘Facade’ White Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is very subtle and nuanced, showing amazing flavor range. Don’t miss out on the 2020 Massalto ‘Side Effect’ Syrah (OB, 95) which is wonderfully stony and shows insanely good texture and flavor range, coming from the famed Stoneridge Vineyard. Learn more about these beautiful new wines at massalto.com and here are my reviews of the new Massalto wines.

2020 Massalto ‘Facade’ White Pinot Noir- Coming from the Solaksen Vineyard in the Royal Slope AVA, this spent 22 months in 30% new French oak before bottling. Macadamia nut, kiwi and juicy pear on the nose. The palate is big and bold with serious flavor density, showing gorgeous nutty and earthy character alongside melon fruits. Drink 2023-2030- 94

2021 Massalto ‘Extravaganza’ Cinsault- This 2021 comes from the Thunderstone Vineyard which is neighboring the Stoneridge Vineyard. Whole cluster fermented, this shows creosote, red currants and sandalwood notes on the nose. The palate shows good weight with lovely underlying finesse. Rich and displaying a gorgeous core of red fruits, this is juicy and delicious stuff that will cellar well for another seven plus years. Drink 2023-2029- 93

2020 Massalto ‘Artisan’ Malbec- Coming from the Scarline and Stoneridge Vineyard, this 100% Malbec was stored in 30% new French oak before bottling. The nose is smoky and deep with creosote and violets that combine with dark chocolate shavings and espresso grounds. The palate is very fresh with wonderful concentration and verve, showing some nice stony and salty nuance. Beautiful volume and weight, this is showing great right now. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2020 Massalto ‘Interstellar’ Mourvedre- This 2020 Mourvèdre comes from the Thunderstone Vineyard and saw 40% whole cluster fermentation. Iodine, white pepper dusted bacon and black plum notes all evolve on the nose. The texture from the 30% new French oak shows beautifully. Concentrated and very geeky with serious flavor and aromatic range, this is beautiful wine that is drinking great right now. Drink 2023-2029- 93

2020 Massalto ‘The Point of No Return’ Grenache- This was aged for 22 months in 30% new French oak, this 2022 Grenache from the Thunderstone Vineyard shows off great richness and texture. Layers of pretty red fruits with creosote, wet stone, and cardamom all greet you alongside blood orange zest, giving you a beautiful sensation of sweet and sour. Drink 2023-2030- 94

2020 Massalto ‘Side Effect’ Syrah- Coming from the famed Stoneridge Vineyard in the Royal Slope AVA, this 2020 Syrah was aged in 30% new French oak before bottling. The nose shows insanely good range with beef drippings, white pepper and suggestions of baking spices laced with Hoisin sauce. The palate is deep and concentrated with insanely good flavor range and serious underlying tension. This is serious stuff that is already beautifully evolved. Drink 2023-2030- 95

TOR

It is more than apparent that Tor Kenward knows Napa Chardonnay. As one of the architects of Beringer’s famed ‘Private Reserve’ Chardonnay, I had the great chance to chat about him during my Instagram Live with him a few years back (https://www.instagram.com/tv/CLsZUPbld8M/) about his hand in the ‘Private Reserve’ program while he was at the helm for Beringer Vineyards. Tor has a new book out that is a truly outstanding read for any lover of Napa Valley wine. While he might be most famous for Cabernet Sauvignon, Tor has been making some incredible Chardonnay for many years now. Winemaker Jeff Ames deftly crafts these big Chardonnay bottlings from some of the finest area sources including the old vine‘Beresini’ and ‘Hyde’ Vineyards.

Tor has crafted some of the finest Chardonnays in North America here. I absolutely loved the 2021 TOR ‘Cuvee Torchiana’ Chardonnay (OB, 96) which is one of the finest new world Chardonnay bottlings I have enjoyed over the past year. This is highly eminiscent of a top Mersault. Silky smooth throughout the drinking experience with insanely good texture, finesse and range, this beautiful wine will cellar well for at least another decade. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://torwines.com Here are the exceptional spring 2023 releases by TOR.

2021 TOR ‘Cuvee Torchiana’ Chardonnay- The incredible new ‘Cuvee Torchiana’ comes from the three-acre Beresini Vineyard which was planted roughly 30 years ago. The wine was stored in Saury and Damy medium-toast oak barrels prior to bottling. This is an incredible golden hue on the glass, offering toasted hazelnut on the nose alongside banana, grilled pineapple, and shades of lemon rind dusted brioche bread. The palate is absolutely seamless throughout the drinking experience. Melon and citrus fruits combine with vanilla creme brûlée, baking spices and an opulent texture on the palate. Wait for the minute-long finish! Drink 2023-2033- 96

2021 TOR ‘Cuvee Susan’ Chardonnay- The 2021 ‘Cuvee Susan’ comes from the famed Hyde Vineyard which was planted by Larry Hyde three decades ago. Stored in 20% new French oak, this offers incredible aromatic range from white grapefruit blossom, pastry crust, ripe peach and salty undercurrents. The palate is dense and showing beautiful underlying finesse with a silky texture. Rich Japanese pear, juicy starfruit and salted Macadamia nut flavors combine with cardamom spiked sourdough bread on the palate. This is a complete stunner that has both the stuffing and finesse to show well for at least another decade. Drink 2023-2033- 96

2021 TOR ‘Oakville’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The sensational ‘Oakville’ comes from some famed sites in the Oakville AVA including the Tench Vineyard. Very brooding in the glass, this displays incredible aromatics with black tea, exotic spices, blackberries, anise, red bell pepper and shades of freshly tilled loamy soils. The palate is concentrated and comes off very seamless with incredible elegance throughout the drinking experience. This is amongst the finest entry level Napa Cabernets that you will find in the valley as it will easily cellar for another fifteen years but will also reward early drinking. Drink 2023-2040- 95

The Missoula Flood

Today we share one of the most exciting new sparkling wine brands you will find on the west coast. Andrew Reichers was Matthias Pippig’s first employee at Sanguis, one of Santa Barbara’s storied producers. Reichers has since gone on to create beautiful wines for his own winery. Pippig was inspired by the Columbia Gorge and the wines from this windy region. He saw a great potential for making sparkling wines from this region with its potential for tension. “After studying the geology I think this has altitude and diverse soils that is a bit like Santa Ynez. I don’t want to duplicate Sanguis and the wines that IS really liked from this region were the sparkling wines that seemed to punch above their weight. We were in Portand and had a few bottles of champagne. We realized that we needed to do that in the Gorge.” After visiting ten vineyards, Matthias decided to choose two sites in the Gorge.

At the time Andrew was at Lingua Franca and they sought to make their wines there prior to the winery being sold. The vintage that I tasted was made at Argyle with winemaker Nate Klostermann. “We were not a good fit in terms of size and these were like 50 case production wines. We were done putting wines into bottle in two hours” he said.

All wines come from the 2020 vintage. He stated “That was intentional and in the future the follow up releases will be wines that are a combination of 2021 and some 2020.” All of the wines are extra brut as dosage trials “Was not based on dogma and it is chic to do zero dosage and neither Andrew nor I believe in that. We want to make wines that have personality.”

He stated “Dosage trials were interesting and we went back to a half gram of sugar addition for Hummingbird, a light polishing. Just taking the edge off. Still Waters is all the way up to 6 grams and settled on 3. For Kaleidoscope since we don’t have a rule book, we did a still wine edition, 2% from a perpetual Chardonnay barrel that we have in house. 1% was skin-fermented Roussanne. We tried some other things to see what happens and that combination was knockout. This does add some sweetness but lends a generosity and these were all bottled at lower than six atmospheres.” Roughly 50% of his crop was lost in 2020. He stated “We had no experience with smoke taint and we submitted samples but results weren’t ready in time.”

There will be more wines to come in the future, including a Blanc de Noirs. For now, don’t miss out on the incredible 2020 The Missoula Flood ‘Kaleidoscope’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 95) and as the name suggests, the flavor range is absolutely incredible from red fruits to tart green fruits, nutty undertones and everything in between. Learn more about this outstanding new wine project at https://themissoulaflood.com/ and here are my exclusive reviews of the new wines by The Missoula Flood.

2020 The Missoula Flood ‘Hummingbird’ Sparkling Wine- This wine was picked at only 17 brix and was given half a gram of dosage. Lees were stirred frequently for the texture as this wine is mostly coming from a vineyard formerly known as Acadia, the ‘Hummingbird’ shows brilliant nerve on the palate with loads of lemon rind, sourdough bread, peach sour patch kids candy and shades of peat moss. This is just an incredible sushi wine. Drink 2023-2035- 94

2020 The Missoula Flood ‘Kaleidoscope’ Sparkling Wine- The 2020 ‘Kaleidoscope’ comes from the Columbia Gorge AVA and is nearly all Chardonnay from three blocks in the Celilo Vineyard with 2% Chardonnay from Santa Barbara County and 1% Roussanne from the same region blended in. Mango, red raspberry, crushed wet gravel and Gravenstein apple flavors combine with salted nutty undertones on the palate. Showing excellent length, this beauty is absolutely humming now. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2020 The Missoula Flood ‘Still Waters’ Sparkling Wine- The 2020 ‘Still Waters’ comes from block 9 in the Celilo Vineyard and is 100% Chardonnay.  This shows rich buttered French bread notes on the nose with Marcona almond and shades of green papaya. This shows bright kumquat zest and green apple flavors on the palate alongside stony and nutty undertones. Showing good length and a soft mousse this is seriously good, refined bubbles. Drink 2023-2035- 94

Castiglion del Bosco

A famed property in Brunello, Castiglion del Bosco is named after the bosco,(wood), surrounding the Castiglion (walled castle), is the domain of deer, boars, pheasants and vineyards planted with Sangiovese that is set on gravel and clay soils. The property boasts a hotel and golf club as well with a scenic backdrop that is as good as it gets for Tuscany.

The new wines that I tasted were the entry level Brunello as well as their ‘Campo del Drago’ which is their cru wine from the Capanna area, spanning 1.5 hectares at a high elevation site. 2018 was not the easiest vintage to navigate with cool weather and rains at early summer which was followed by a hot and dry later summer. Wines were stored for 24 months in French oak and I was very impressed with both new bottlings. My feeling is that both wines need several hours of air before consuming at the moment. The 2018 Castiglion del Bosco ‘Campo del Drago’ Brunello (OB, 95) which is heady and intense but also shows incredible nuance and a silky texture. Learn more about this amazing Tuscan property at https://wine.castigliondelbosco.com/ and here are my reviews of the incredible new wines by Castiglion del Bosco.

2018 Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino- The outstanding 2018 Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino comes from this vintage that saw a very warm end to summer. Dark truffle shavings combine with dried herbs, white pepper and shades of Nori on the nose. The palate is soft and inviting with silky tannins that frame a beautiful core of red fruits, orange rind and truffle shavings. This is seriously good stuff for the price that is already providing plenty of drinking enjoyment. Drink 2023-2037- 94

2018 Castiglion del Bosco ‘Campo del Drago’ Brunello di Montalcino- The 2018 Castiglion del Bosco ‘Campo del Drago’ Brunello di Montalcino is a stunning new bottling that is already showing great now at the five year mark. Once on the nose this shows off beautiful red rose petal notes alongside potpourri, allspice, blood orange zest and shades of Linzer torte. The palate is concentrated and wonderfully earthy with refined tannins and great concentration. The combination of weight, verve and flavor range is amazing. Seriously good to consume now, this will cellar well for another fifteen to twenty years to come. Drink 2023-2040- 95

Browne Family Vineyards

Browne Family wines is inspired by the story of William Bitner Browne, the late grandfather of proprietor Andrew Browne. The winery had its first vintage in 2015 focusing on high quality red wines from great sites across Washington. Browne has tasting rooms sprinkled across the state,  including one in SoDo in Seattle that I have visited. It is a great location to visit before a Seahawks or Mariners game.

Winemaker John Freeman crafts many of the Browne red wines to spend 23-30 months in French oak. The resultant wines have a soft texture and mouthfeel from the oak treatment. Joh has a diverse background spending seven years at Franciscan Vineyards and an additional five spent as the Cellar Master at Miner Family. John decided to move to Washington in 2002 and has been Browne winemaker since 2015.

They have a very diverse lineup of wines. I really enjoyed the 2022 Browne Family Vineyards ‘Bitter Estate’ Rose (OB, 90) which shows really good flavor range. Just as good is the 2020 Browne Family Vineyards ‘Bitner Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 90) which is soft and generous with a smooth mouthfeel and plenty of herbal tones. Learn more about this great lineup at https://brownefamilyvineyards.com Here are my reviews of the new Browne Family Vineyards wines

2022 Browne Family Vineyards ‘Willow White Blend’ White Wine- The ‘Willow White Blend’ combines freshness and texture, showing melon and starfruit flavors alongside shades of gooseberry and minerals on the palate. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2027- 89

2020 Browne Family Vineyards ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- This shows a bitter edge with red currants and red cherry flavors alongside shades of tar and menthol. Drink 2023-2027- 87

2020 Browne Family Vineyards‘Forest Project’ Red Wine- This Columbia Valley red shows a bit lean with sweet tea, black currants and herbal tones on the palate. Drink 2023-2026- 86

2020 Browne Family Vineyards ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 Browne Cabernet Sauvignon is well-balanced but a bit too linear mid-palate with light herbal and blackberry notes. Drink 2023-2026- 86

2020 Browne Family Vineyards ‘Forest Project Paso Robles’ Cabernet Sauvignon- For each bottle sold of this wine, Browne will plant a tree. A bit lean in color, this offers jammy red fruit flavors with light tilled soil and salty accents on the palate. Drink now. Drink 2023-2027- 88

2020 Browne Family Vineyards ‘Tribute Bitner Estate’ Red Wine- Coming from this challenging vintage in the Columbia Valley, the 2020 Browne ‘Tribute Bitner Estate’ Red Wine offers black currants and dark chocolate shavings on the palate with a smooth mouthfeel. Medium-bodied and well-balanced, enjoy now and over the next five to seven years. Drink 2023-2028- 90

2022 Browne Family Vineyards Viognier- Sourced from the Columbia Valley, this 2022 Viognier offers jasmine and juicy peach on the nose alongside shades of wet stone. The palate is soft and refined with good richness and salty undertones alongside a bright beam of tension. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2022 Browne Family Vineyards ‘Cabernet Franc’ Rose- A limited production bottling from the Columbia Valley, the 2022 Browne Family Wines ‘Cabernet Franc’ Rose shows a smooth texture with ripe teaberry and red raspberry on the palate alongside shades of juicy kumquat. Drink 2023-2027- 89

2022 Browne Family Vineyards ‘Bitter Estate’ Rose- Made from Grenache, the 2022 ‘Bitner Estate’ Rose shows off a smooth mouthfeel on the palate. Bright pear and guava notes combine with salty and stony soil accents on the palate. Nicely nuanced, this is really good stuff for a hot summer day. Drink 2023-2028- 90

2022 Browne Family Vineyards ‘Willow White Blend’ White Wine- The ‘Willow White Blend’ combines freshness and texture, showing melon and starfruit flavors alongside shades of gooseberry and minerals on the palate. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2027- 89

2020 Browne Family Vineyards ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- This shows a bitter edge with red currants and red cherry flavors alongside shades of tar and menthol. Drink 2023-2027- 87

2020 Browne Family Vineyards ‘Forest Project’ Red Wine- This Columbia Valley red shows a bit lean with sweet tea, black currants and herbal tones on the palate. Drink 2023-2026- 86

2020 Browne Family Vineyards ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 Browne Cabernet Sauvignon is well-balanced but a bit too linear mid-palate with light herbal and blackberry notes. Drink 2023-2026- 86

2020 Browne Family Vineyards ‘Forest Project Paso Robles’ Cabernet Sauvignon- For each bottle sold of this wine, Browne will plant a tree. A bit lean in color, this offers jammy red fruit flavors with light tilled soil and salty accents on the palate. Drink now. Drink 2023-2027- 88

2020 Browne Family Vineyards ‘Tribute Bitner Estate’ Red Wine- Coming from this challenging vintage in the Columbia Valley, the 2020 Browne ‘Tribute Bitner Estate’ Red Wine offers black currants and dark chocolate shavings on the palate with a smooth mouthfeel. Medium-bodied and well-balanced, enjoy now and over the next five to seven years. Drink 2023-2028- 90

2020 Browne Family Vineyards ‘Bitter Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Inky in the glass, the 2020 ‘Bitner Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon offers black cherry, tar and black raspberry flavors alongside bitter chocolate notes on the palate. Well-structured, this is very nice considering the challenges of the vintage. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 90

2020 Browne Family Vineyards‘The Homecoming’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming rom the Walla Walla Valley, the 2020 ‘The Homecoming’ shows medium-bodied wild blackberry, tobacco and graphite notes on the palate with good poise and a touch of bitterness towards the back end. Drink 2023-2027- 89

2020 Browne Family Vineyards‘The Continent’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This wine comes from the Williamson block on the Browne Walla Walla Estate Vineyard. Sour black cherry and black raspberry notes combine with dried herbs and tar notes on the palate. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2027- 89

2020 Browne Family Vineyards ‘Liberation of Paris’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 ‘Liberation of Paris’ is source from the Wittenberg Block of their estate vineyard in Walla Walla. This displays medium bodied black currants that mingle well with minerals and a smoky edge on the palate. Drink 2023-2027- 89

2020 Browne Family Vineyards ‘The Farm’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming from the Dottie Block of their Walla Walla Estate Vineyard, this offers medium bodied coffee ground and blackberry notes alongside light minerals and a touch of bitter chocolate on the palate. Drink 2023-2027- 89

Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese Vertical Tasting

I have a soft spot for Leonetti Sangiovese. Easily one of the finest examples of new world Sangio, there are really only a few wineries that can produce this varietal at this level. In Washington there are no other wineries that come close to producing this level of Sangiovese in terms of depth, concentration and flavor/aromatic range. These wines can age so gracefully as I found as I tasted through a range of their 2013-2018 vintages.

Leonetti Sangiovese needs a few years after it is released to fully mature. In its youth the wine is typically too tannic and the acidity also needs a bit more time to soften. Trust me, after several years of bottle age, you will be well-rewarded. Tasting through the vintages of Leonetti Sanigo, I had little surprises. I adored the 2012 Leonetti Sangiovese (OB, 95) which is really peaking now at the ten year mark and is wonderfully round, soft and generous. 2013 is an overlooked vintage but the vintage for reds has turned out to be every bit as good as 2012 — if not better! I adore where the 2014 Leonetti Sangiovese (OB, 96) is drinking. This beauty has 5% Aglianico blended in and is very well-structured, having a long way to go now. I would consider drinking the excellent 2015 Leonetti Sangiovese (OB, 94) which is an awesome wine made in a tough vintage. Learn more about these beautiful wines at leonetticellar.com and here are my reviews of the incredible Leonetti Sangiovese vertical tasting.

2013 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese- The recent wines tasted from the 2013 remind me that this year is every bit as good as the heralded 2012 vintage. The 2013 Leonetti Sangiovese is a beautiful example of this warm vintage. It is texturally seamless and polished with refined tannins that frame a brilliant core of red fruits, menthol and espresso grounds. No need to cellar this any longer as this outstanding Sangiovese will be best enjoyed now and over the next five to seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 95

2014 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese- Ripe and plump, the 2014 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese has 5% Aglianico blended in. Store for 22 months in once filled French oak and neutral oval botti, this displays a fantastic bouquet with purple rose petals, black tea, exotic spices and dark raspberry notes. The palate is fresh and smooth with great viscosity. Layers of rich black and red fruits parade with chocolate and shades of black licorice on the palate. Seriously good now, this will easily go for another ten years. Drink 2023-2033- 96

2015 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese- The 2015 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese comes from this challenging vintage for red wines that saw a record early harvest. This edition has a high percentage (13%) of Aglianico blended in. It is very soft and round on the mouth, with good concentration and underlying acidity considering the heat of the vintage. Roasted dates, ripe fig and milk chocolate flavors with dusty tannins all combine on the palate. Enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2023-2031- 94

2016 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese- This 100% varietal 2016 Sangiovese was stored for 22 months in new and once-filled French oak barrels and neutral French oak barrels, puncheons, and oval botti before bottling. The nose comes off outrageously good. Black plum, cardamom, freshly tilled soils and shades of red rose petals all combine on the nose. The palate is very seamless with fantastic underlying tension. Deep and concentrated, with salty and stony undertones, this is gorgeous wine that is really peaking right now. Enjoy this beauty over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 96

2017 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese- This is now the second time in a year that I’ve had to visit this beautifully-structured wine. The downright delicious 2017 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese shows beautifully after about 30 minutes of air. Dark plum, pipe tobacco, and milk chocolate flavors all combine with copious minerals, refined tannins and excellent viscosity. Medium to full-bodied, this thing is really singing now at six years of age. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2018 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese- The utterly fabulous 2018 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese was sourced from the Holy Roller, Seven Hills and Loess vineyards. It is still very youthful and fresh once on the mouth and really needs about an hour of air before consuming. Ripe red currants, wet stone and shades of black licorice with tobacco leaf notes all combine on the palate. Showing brilliantly, this is going to be the most cellar-worthy wine of the tasting set. Enjoy now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 96

Meerlust

Today we venture down to South Africa and share one of the jewels of Stellenbosch. Meerlust fine wines on the Meerlust Estate have spanned the Myburgh family for eight generations, starting back in 1756. A tour of the estate has a historic manor house, with a classical style wine cellar, rose gardens, family cemetery, dovecote and bird sanctuary. This property was first owned by a German immigrant, Henning Huising, who settled there in 1693. He named his new-found home Meerlust, meaning pleasure of the sea, as the manor house sits on a granite outcrop only 5 km from False Bay, and in the warm summer months the vineyards are refreshed by ocean breezes and evening mists which roll in from the coast.

I was really impressed with their new wine which is a Bordeaux style blend that was first produced back in 1980. The 2018 Meerlust ‘Rubicon’ Red Wine (OB, 93) is all about balance, with good richness and outstanding flavor range. It is a beautiful effort by Meerlust. Learn more about this great winery at https://www.mmdltd.com/producers/meerlust-estate/ and here is my review of the outstanding new Meerlust ‘Rubicon’ Red Wine.

2018 Meerlust ‘Rubicon’ Red Wine- The 2018 Meerlust ‘Rubicon’ combines mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (67%) with smaller portions Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It is an awesome effort by former winemaker Chris Williams. Rich and decadent, this shows great flavor range from fresh sage and anise to flavors of dark currants, tobacco leaf and coffee grounds. Complex and delicious, enjoy now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 93

Seven Hills

Today it is my pleasure to share one of the outstanding historic wineries in the Walla Walla Valley. Seven Hills was started all the way back in 1988, and is a Walla Walla mainstay that makes consistently great Rose and well-balanced red wines. I’ve visited this winery many times and have always been impressed with the consistency of their lineup.

At the helm is winemaker Bobby Richards whom I visited with this spring. Richards  is a Pacific Northwest native, originally from Albany, Oregon. It was back in 2009 when he worked a harvest at Benton Lane that he fell in love with both his current wife and the wine industry. Richards worked a harvest at Tranche Cellars before joining Seven Hills as a harvest intern in 2013 and after working his way up — today serving as Winemaker.

I love the new 2022 Seven Hills ‘Columbia Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 91) which is a classy effort that has great flavor range and minerality. Even better is the 2020 Seven Hills ‘Pentad’ Red Wine (OB, 94) which is dense and chewy with loads of dark fruit flavors. Learn more about this historic winery at https://www.sevenhillswinery.com and here are my reviews of the new wines by Seven Hills.

2022 Seven Hills ‘Columbia Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc- White peach, kiwi and gooseberry mark the nose on this 2021 Sauvignon Blanc. The palate is soft with copious minerals and lovely melon and citrus fruits backing things up. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2022 Seven Hills Rose- One of the consistently great value Rose wines that I have tasted over the past decade, the 2022 Seven Hills Rose offers white peach and stony mineral notes alongside ripe red raspberry on the palate. With a soft texture, enjoy now and over the next five years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2020 Seven Hills ‘SHW Founding Vineyard’ Merlot- This comes from their founding vineyard which was plated in the early 1980s. This is smooth with ripe red cherry, freshly tilled soil and blackberry flavors. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2021 Seven Hills ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Merlot- Coming from this warm vintage, the 2021 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Merlot  offers black raspberry and chocolate notes alongside salty soils and plenty of mouth-watering acidity. Enjoy now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2020 Seven Hills ‘Founding Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 Seven Hills ‘Founding Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows a smooth texture with black tea an exotic spices on the palate, with a brilliant core of black fruits and pipe tobacco flavors. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2029- 92

2021 Seven Hills ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- For years this has offered great value, as the 2021 edition shows savory herbs alongside a brilliant core of black cherry, blackberry and copious minerals with espresso ground accents. Drink 2023-2033- 92

2020 Seven Hills ‘Pentad’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Pentad’ blends all five Bordeaux varietals. Despite the obvious challenges of the vintage, the 2020 ‘Pentad’ is shining brightly with bold black tea and mountain huckleberry flavors that mingle well with freshly tilled salty soils and Turkish coffee notes on the palate. Full-bodied, enjoy now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2023-2030- 94

Interview with Ryan Pennington, COO of L'Ecole No. 41

On Monday there was some huge news out of the Walla Walla Valley as it was announced that Ryan Pennington was named COO of L’Ecole No. 41. Pennington has a wealth of experience in the Washington wine industry as I have known him for a decade. Pennington joins L’Ecole No 41 after ten years at Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, most recently serving as Vice President, Communications & Corporate Affairs. Prior to Ste. Michelle, Pennington served for five years as Communications Director for the Washington Wine Commission. Speaking today with Pennington he is exceedingly excited for this new challenge. Here is my interview with Ryan Pennington, COO of L’Ecole No. 41 Winery. 

OB: How did you decide to join L’Ecole?

RP: It came up fairly quickly. and I wasn’t necessarily looking to leave Ste. Michelle, and it was a hard decision, but this was an opportunity I just simply couldn’t pass up. About five or six years ago, when Debbie Frol retired, Marty Clubb was looking for a replacement and he approached me about the job. At the time my kids were much younger and relocation to Walla Walla wasn’t an option. When it came up again, the process went quickly, and I think this is the right move for me at the right time. I am going to be based in Walla Walla and I will do a lot of back and forth to Seattle this year, which gives us time to figure out a permanent arrangement. I have always had such respect for Marty and for L’Ecole. There are so few brands in Washington that have this pedigree but also this platform to build from, and I really believe that this brand can be a real flagship for Walla Walla and Washington — and we can raise the bar even more.

OB: Can you talk about your experience at Ste. Michelle and the value that brings value to L’Ecole? 

RP: I had the great fortune of being involved in a lot of aspects of the Ste. Michelle business. On the brand side and all across the portfolio from the behemoth of Chateau Ste. Michelle to the boutique of Col Solare, and even on the import side. And then functionally in marketing, PR, brand strategy, and trade relations. I like to think that I earned my MBA in Washington wine from the University of Ste. Michelle. With L’Ecole’s portfolio, they have everything from 20 dollar Chenin Blanc to 70 dollar Ferguson Vineyard Red Wine. I am familiar with managing a broad portfolio, and L’Ecole is already in 49 states and 11 different countries.

OB: How do you get L’Ecole more involved in international markets?

RP: Being in 11 international markets now is a good achievement, but it is a big world and we have great opportunity. I think what we need to do is focus on Washington, Walla Walla, and L’Ecole at that ultra- premium level and putting our best wines out there on the world stage and competing on quality and character and not competing on price. Around the world there are a lot of good wines from Spain, Italy and France that we can’t compete with on with price. But nobody can compete with our terroir and the quality that we can express from that terroir. I think we can complete with the best wines in the world. Now it is just a matter of getting out there and making the effort to work these markets and sell both the region and the brand.

OB: Can you share some seminal moments that you have had with L’Ecole?

RP: I feel so thrilled at the potential from Ferguson Vineyard. I think that wine is one of the most distinctive wines from Washington and I think that it already is and yet still can be an even greater benchmark for what’s possible from Washington. I am excited about leading the brand from the top, and this wine has such intense fractured basalt character and beautiful minerality. I love Merlot and I think that the quality of Merlot from L’Ecole matches the great wines of Bordeaux and Bolgheri. I have had the chance to taste some of the older wines from the L’Ecole library which showed such longevity and were just outstanding.

OB: L’Ecole has been synonymous with value just as many of the wines that you worked with at Chateau Ste. Michelle. Can you talk about working with one of the great value brands on the west coast, the entry level wines by L’Ecole? 

RP: L’Ecole is able to deliver some of the best wines at great prices. Marty is looking at vineyard sourcing for those wines and we want to get the best fruit to express Washington at that introductory level. We will continue to focus on the quality and the expression of those wines even at that entry level. The broad sourcing and scale allows us to maintain the approachable price point. Ste. Michelle does this, as well, but I want to put a finer point on it at L’Ecole, building the winery at the top of the portfolio. The top wines are always going to be limited in quantity, but thinking about Ferguson, Apogee, and Perigee, I want to help make sure that those are absolutely the best that they can be each year. That will reinforce the quality that we are able to reinforce for our Columbia Valley wines, as well. I never want to be distracted by chasing volume on the Columbia Valley wines. And I am so fortunate that L’Ecole has a 40 year history of producing amazing wines.

Seghesio

One of the historic producers of outstanding Zinfandel, Seghesio family has been involved in wine for more than 120 years. In 1895 Italian immigrant and winemaker Edoardo Seghesio planted his first Zinfandel vineyard in what is now Seghesio’s Home Ranch Vineyard in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley. Edoardo and his wife Angela survived Prohibition as one of roughly100 wineries to survive that era. Following prohibition, Seghesio sold bulk wine and it was only under 4th generation owner, Ted Seghesio when a focus on premium wines evolved. In a short period of time in the 1990s, Seghesio became synonymous with some of the highest quality Zinfandel available on the retail market. Their success led to the 2011 sale of Seghesio Family Vineyards to Crimson Wine Group. 

Today their wines are as good as ever. I love the new 2021 Seghesio ‘Home Ranch’ Barbera (OB, 92) which is very juicy and delicious with its core of blue fruits. Even better is the fantastic 2021 Seghesio ‘Rockpile’ Zinfandel (OB, 93) which shows great tension and flavor density. Learn more about these outstanding Zinfandel wines at seghesio.com and here are the beautiful new wines by Seghesio.

2021 Seghesio ‘Home Ranch Vineyard’ Barbera- Coming from the Alexander Valley, this unique Barbera bottling displays concentrated blueberry fruit flavors on the palate, with tobacco leaf and milk chocolate notes. Seriously good, with lovely viscosity and texture, enjoy this over the next five to seven years. Drink 2023-2029- 92

2021 Seghesio ‘Rockpile’ Zinfandel- This 2021 bottling comes from the Rockpile AVA where low yielding vines are set against the mountain. Neatly textured, this displays ripe boysenberry preserves, black tea and Yakima cherry flavors alongside good tension. The stony undertones intense, as this is really enjoyable Zinfandel to consume now. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2021 Seghesio ‘Keyhole Ranch Vineyard’ Zinfandel- This 2021 Zinfandel comes from the Keyhole Ranch with is located in the Russian River Valley. Fresh and soft on the mouth, this shows dill and bramble notes alongside red raspberry and red cherry flavors. Soft and generous, this is beautiful wine to enjoy over the next eight plus years. Drink 2023-2031- 92

Babs Wine Company

A new brand out of Santa Barbara, Babs Wine Company which is a partnership between Adam Lee and Santa Barbara County vineyard owner John Wagner. The brand is a torwback to a time before there was wine tourism in this area. It was all the way back in the early 1990s when Adam Lee started his Siduri brand (later sold to Jackson Family in 2015).

After the sale Lee consulted for three years for Jackson Family and then decided to make wine with Wagner who is one of the largest landowners in the Santa Rita Hills. Wines come from the famed John Sebastiano Vineyard as well as the Peake Ranch Vineyard and the Sierra Madre Vineyard. The wines are made with a good amount of whole cluster fermentation and are absolutely delicious — and downright killer values. Learn more about this exciting project at claricewinecompany.com and here are my reviews of the new wines by Babs Wine Company.

2021 Babs Wine Company ‘Dial Tone’ Pinot Noir- Rich and heady, with great vibrant acidity, the 2021 Babs Wine Company ‘Dial Tone’ Pinot Noir is a knockout bottling that is already showing brilliantly. The wine is loaded with tart red fruits that collide with copious minerals and salty soil flavors. Quite literally bursting with flavor, no reason to cellar this stellar 2021 Pinot Noir. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Babs Wine Company ‘Busy Signal’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 ‘Busy Signal’ Pinot Noir is another insanely good value by Babs Wine Company. Unlike the ‘Dial Tone’ this shows more of a black fruit profile on the palate with wild blackberry and black cherry notes alongside shades of sassafras, dried herbs and plenty of mouth-watering acidity. Really good now, enjoy over the next eight plus years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

Interview with Sidney Rice, Co-Founder of Dossier

Today we share a really incredible interview with former NFL all-pro Sidney Rice. Sidney is part of the Super Bowl winning team from 2013. He also made a Pro Bowl and he talks about his career as well as his inspirations in the wine industry. He has recently started one of the most exciting wine brands of the Pacific Northwest, Dossier, with his business partner Tim Lenihan. Without further adieu, here is my exclusive interview with NFL legend Sidney Rice.

OB: What were some of your seminal moments as a member of the Seattle Seahawks?

SR: I definitely would have a top 2, winning the first Super Bowl for the City of Seattle and the parade afterwards. That experience was absolutely amazing and I get chills thinking of that parade. Every single angle you looked down those streets you saw people screaming and yelling. I show videos of people with their faces painted and these six or seven year olds with their shirts off and it is freezing cold. That was something.

Number two has to be the game winning catch against the Patriots. I think that was our turning point as a team to make us realize that we can compete with any team in the NFL. We were a young team at the time and it was Russ’s first year as quarterback and that game was our major turning point. The play was a double move, about 55 yards, and I had him beat and I am like I am not dropping that ball. It was raining hard outside so it was extra tough. I still have the photo where I am holding the ball as tight as ever falling to the ground.

OB: How did you first get interested in wine? Did you enjoy wine with your teammates?

SR: I think that it was definitely post-football where I am more interested. I was hanging around and tasting more with my buddies. During my career I was not that interested in wine. Tequila was my go-to but in 2018 me and a friend decided to visit the Napa Valley and taste some wines. The next year we did that again. Chris Cab signed with Pharrell when he was really young and he is one of my really good friends. We had visited his place in the Bahamas and he calls his dad and they had this amazing wine that we were impressed with. His dad said that he can open whatever he wants and Chris starts pulling out these crazy wines. Pulls out this 2003 Chateau Margaux and I am thinking that this is amazing stuff.

Our Napa trip was two months later and we had a great time — enjoyed diners at the restaurant at Meadowood and we were popping some crazy wines. The following year we did the same thing and went to French Laundry. Covid hit and that is when people started drinking a bit more and my choice of drink became wine. I was into more wines and started posting some of the wines that I was drinking and all of these random people started reaching out. I wanted to really learn and over the year and a half I tasted over 300 different wines. I was learning, you go down a rabbit hole and it is so fun and interesting. Different regions of the world and at that point Tim Leniham was seeing my posts and he said that I had to start drinking some Washington wines. He was bringing the Washington wines over. We would hang out at my house and his house. I mentioned one day wanting to start a label and he just lit up. He said that all of his friends are in the wine industry and has always wanted to do that. I said that I would love to partner with him and about five more times hanging out then we had to do this. I learned his passion for wine and that is how Dossier came about.

OB: Who are some of your most inspired people who have made their careers in the NFL and now the wine industry?

SR: You have to go with Charles Woodson, he is a legend in the wine industry and what he has accomplished in the NFL. I knew what Drew Bledsoe was doing with his Doubleback label and doing so well. What he has built and continues to build has been awesome. Charles has done an amazing job and that was one of the things that when Tim and I started to start Dossier. We were thinking of names and my main thing was I didn’t want to slap my name on a label and say that this is my wine. I didn’t want to have anything to do with the football career for what I did on the field. I wanted to create something special and let the wines speak for themselves. Tim and I feel like Washington is on the map but it is not getting the notoriety that it deserves. Last night I was at an event and someone was talking about the French wines and Italian wines and they said that Washington was their second favorite region. I think we will be hearing a lot more about that in the future. I want to continue to push that forward.

The terroir in Washington is amazing and the goal is continue to move that needle forward and help gain more notoriety to our region. One of my favorite things about the industry is the willingness for other people in the state who have done wine, the pioneers in the industry, they are inclusive. Most of the time in industries there is competitions but I have been impressed by the willingness for others to help in the industry. These guys who have been in it for a long time, and it is not like ‘he is new and I am not going to help him’ but literally Drew, Mark McNeely, Chris Figgins, Chris Upchurch, Gilles Nicault, they are like ‘if you never need help, give me a call’ and they are resources and it is so cool to have that community here and people willing to support each other.

OB: Talk about Billo Naravane, an incredibly talented guy. What do you like about the wines that he makes?

SR: I love the style of wines that he makes. But the thing that had us hooked was tasting through the wines, there was the consistency of all of his wines that he tasted. We were amazed how good that the wines were and they were completely different from the others that we interviewed. The wines are well-rounded from start to finish. I was like ‘this is it’ and I was thinking that this guy is really special. At the time I didn’t realize that he was a Master of Wine and it definitely shows in the bottle.

OB: People are curious to know what your cellar is like? Do you have some special bottles? What have you been enjoying now?

SR: When I started getting more and more into wine I immediately went on a huge Napa run and then jumped into France — fell in love with a lot of the first growths. Chateau Margaux and Chateau Latour. I have a few 2000 Chateau Margaux in the cellar and I have a bunch of 2010 Chateau Margaux. I have a 1990 Latour and 1982 Petrus and ’90 Petrus. I have some older champagnes. I am recently been down a champagne hole and I am in love with Jaques Selosse, been drinking Rose and Initial and fortunately I have some good friends who have been impactful of myth wine journey as well. These guys are like over the moon with these wines. I recently got lucky to get like 12 bottles of ’07 Cristal for a great price. I have some Burgundy as well, some DRC La Tache from the 90s and also DRC Richebourg from the 90s.

Clarice Wine Company

Adam Lee has his hands in many projects. The former founder of Siduri, Adam has made wines for 25 years from Oregon to the Santa Rita Hills. A unique winery project, Clarice Wine Company has a membership of over 600 people. As part of their community members have the chance to interact with each other, sharing wine opinions and wine list guidance, as well as recommendations for wine travel, restaurants, hotels, events and more.

Lee got his start in Texas and was working in wine sales in the 1990s. In 1993 he and his wife, moved to California and, while working in direct sales at various wineries. It was 1994 when they started Siduri which became one of the state’s top producers of Pinot Noir. Their brand grew from 107 cases in 1994 to 25,000 cases in 2015 when they sold to Jackson Family Wines.

Clarice Wine Company is named after Lee’s grandmother who was his closest friend growing up. The wines are sourced from the Santa Rita Hills and come from some of the state’s great vineyards. I adored the new 2021 Clarice Wine Company Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is beautifully textured and shows fantastic underlying finesse. Learn more about this exciting newer winery project at https://claricewinecompany.com/ and here is my review of the new 2021 Pinot Noir by Clarice and winemaker Adam Lee.

2021 Clarice Wine Company Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2021 Clarice Wine Company Pinot Noir comes from the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA (Rosella’s and Gary’s Vineyards). Stored in 30% new French oak, this is rich and layered Pinot Noir that is already drinking beautifully. Tart pomegranate seed flavors combine with wet stone, crushed mint, cloves and shades of satsuma orange zest. This is quite simply delicious juice that will cellar well for another decade or more. Drink 2023-2035- 94

Louis Roederer 'Cristal' Champagne

It was a cool January afternoon as I pulled up to Champagne Louis Roederer. Louis Roederer only produces their ‘Cristal’ Champagne in specific vintages that work for their style and I was very excited to taste the latest edition. The first ‘Cristal’ Champagne was created back in 1876 to satisfy the demanding tastes of Tsar Alexander II. The emperor asked Louis Roederer to reserve the House’s best cuvée for him every year as he was fond of Louis Roederer’s style. This Champagne was initially distinguished by being presented in a flat-bottomed, transparent lead-crystal bottle. The ‘Cristal’ brand was named after the lead-crystal bottle, which is particularly transparent and luminous. 

‘Cristal’ Champagne blending is typically around 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir, although that varies on the vintage. Cristal is aged for 6 years in Louis Roederer’s cellars and then left for a further 8 months after disgorgement. The ‘Cristal’ Rose Champagne is always composed of estate fruit and the wine is primarily fermented and aged in steel, but roughly 15-20% of the blend is aged in oak. Dosage in this wine has slowly gone down.

I had the chance to taste the new edition, the 2015, against the stunning 2014. The 2014 is amongst the finest wines from the vintage and I have little doubt that the 2015 will also be one of the wines of the vintage. 2015 saw a lot of warmth but the wine maintains an incredible tension throughout the drinking experience. The marvelous 2015 ‘Cristal’ (OB, 97) is dense and fleshy just as the 2014 is. This style reminds me more of the 2009 vintage which was a remarkable achievement in a hot year. Both the 2014 and 2015 considerably benefit from 20-30 minutes in the decanter Learn more about this great Champagne at http://www.louis-roederer.com/en/wine/cristal

2014 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Champagne- This is now the third opportunity I have had to taste the thrilling 2014 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Champagne which remains a much headier, riper style of this wine somewhat akin to the incredible 2009. On the nose this shows off stony minerals that collide with wet stones, kumquat zest, pastry crust and shades of salted cantaloupe. The palate is very dense and hearty with serious tension that holds everything together neatly. Massive in terms of richness and quite literally fat on the mouth, this delivers impeccable mouth-watering acidity that combines with the heady ore of citrus zest and brioche flavors. A joy to drink now, this really needs 30-40 minutes of air to fully evolve. Don’t drink this beauty too cold!  Drink 2023–2040- 97

2015 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Champagne- The scintillating new 2015 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Champagne is a stunning blend of 60% Pinot Noir with the remainder Chardonnay. Coming from this hot vintage, this edition has Pinot Noir wines sourced from Ay, Verzenay, Verzy, Beaumont-sur-Veslewhile, while Chardonnay comes from Avize, Mesnil as well as Cramant. Harvest for this wine began in early September, as the 2015 ‘Cristal’ was given 7G/L dosage. A massive amount of Pink Grapefruit zest greets you alongside the refined mousse, with diatomaceous and chalky soils, jasmine and wafts of Gravenstein apple. The palate is big and burly, with outstanding flavor density, and comes off extremely tightly wound at first. After 30 minutes of air this really sings with its Meyer lemon oil and salty core, showing toasted hazelnut undertones. This is a stunning achievement in a hot vintage and just as the 2014, this will cellar well over the next fifteen to twenty years to come. Drink 2023-2040- 97