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Owen Bargreen

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Here are the great new releases by Gainey.

Gainey

April 14, 2024

Dan and Diane Gainey have a strong family history in the Santa Ynez Valley. Their story began more than 60 years ago when Dan’s grandfather and father, Dan J. Gainey, acquired 1,800 acres of undeveloped land. He called the landl the ;Home Ranch’ and ran cattle and horses while growing 600 acres of fruit, vegetables, flowers and hay. In 1984, Dan’s father converted 50 acres to grapevines and Gainey Vineyard was born.

Gainey Vineyard is now in its fourth generation. The wines were very good across the board. I love the 2022 Evan’s Ranch ‘Morgan’s’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which is rich and viscous with lovely salty soil character. Learn more about this great Santa Barbara County house at https://gaineyvineyard.com and here are my reviews of the new wines by Gainey

2022 Gainey Sauvignon Blanc- Coming from the Santa Ynez Valley, this 2022 Sauvignon Blanc offers loads of peach and pink grapefruit flavors alongside good tension and weight. Delicious now, enjoy over the next few years. Drink 2024-2029- 91

2021 Gainey Chardonnay- This beautifully salty 2021 Chardonnay offers saline drenched pears and apples alongside lemon zest on the palate. Smooth and silky, with a soft mouthfeel, enjoy now and over the next five to seven years. Drink 2024-2030- 92

2022 Evan’s Ranch ‘Caitlin’s’ Chardonnay- Coming from this site set on sandy soils, the 2022 Evan’s Ranch ‘Caitlin’s’ Chardonnay delivers ripe Pink Lady apple and vanilla cream flavors on the palate with good richness and verve. Full-bodied and opulent, enjoy now and over the next seven years. Drink 2024-2031- 93

2021 Gainey Pinot Noir- The 2021 Gainey Pinot Noir comes from a range of sites throughout the Santa Rita Hills. This shows ripe red currants that collide with orange rind, tobacco and salty minerals on the palate. Lithe and beautifully textured, this is really good stuff to enjoy now, and over the next ten years. Drink 2024-2034- 92

2022 Evan’s Ranch ‘Morgan’s’ Pinot Noir- The 2022 ‘Morgan’s’ Pinot Noir is a beautiful new wine by Gainey. Once on the nose this takes on layers of dark roses alongside red raspberry and orange blossom. The palate is soft and refined with a smooth mouthfeel, showing great flavor density. This has some really good aging potential. Drink 2024-2038- 93

2019 Gainey Merlot- Plush and juicy, this 2019 Merlot delivers black currants and allspice dusted black cherry on the palate alongside good verve. Medium to full-bodied, enjoy now and over the next seven plus years to come. Drink 2024-2031- 91

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Here I am pictured with the incredible range of new wines by L’Ecole No. 41.

L'Ecole No. 41

April 11, 2024

One of the great wineries to visit in the Walla Walla Valley, I first tasted at L’Ecole No. 41 more than 20 years ago. After walking through their big double doors I fondly recall settling in to my tasting there and thinking how remarkably consistent the lineup was. For several years now winemaker Marcus Rafanelli has been crafting a beautiful range of wines. Last year I had a chance to visit with him and GM Marty Clubb, as we tasted some older releases. The new L’Ecole wines come from a knockout vintage. For consistency’s sake, these are some of the most consistently great set of wines from Rose to Cabernet.

Another killer value at only 27 USD retail, the 2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah (OB, 92) is dense and chewy, loaded with black fruit flavors. I adored the highly refined 2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Ferguson Vineyard’ Red Wine (OB, 96) which is even better than the 2020 edition. This beauty will easily be a 20 year wine. Learn more about this outstanding winery at http://lecole.com/ Here are the great new wines by L’Ecole No. 41.

2023 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Alder Ridge Vineyard’ Rose- This 100% Grenache wine comes from this site that is. set on a steep, south-facing ridge in the southern end of the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. This comes off juicy and delicious with a smooth texture. Layers of pretty watermelon and pomegranate seed flavors combine with orange peel notes and copious minerals on the palate. A truly outstanding value at 20 dollars, this is one to purchase by the case. Drink 2024-2030- 92

2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘GSM’ Red Wine- The really good 2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘GSM’ Red Wine comes from the Seven Hills Vineyard in the Walla Walla AVA. A blend of equal parts Mourvèdre, Syrah and Grenache, this shows a deep color with red currants, smoked brisket and white pepper alongside suggestions of damp soils. The palate is soft, refined and very juicy, offering a delicious core of red and dark fruits alongside chocolate, scorched earth and smoky notes. Drink 2024-2034- 93

2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah- This 2021 Syrah comes from a range of sites including Stone Tree, Bacchus and Candy Mountain Vineyards. Rich dark raspberry parade with chocolate, roasted figs and blackberry cobbler. Delicious and showing good weight and underlying freshness, enjoy in the next eight years to come. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Syrah- Inky in the glass, this 2021 ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Syrah comes from this site in the foothills of the Blue Mountains and was stored in 25% new French oak before bottling. Tar, dark chocolate shavings and pipe tobacco notes all combine with shades of sagebrush on the nose. The palate is dense and chewy with a fantastic sense of verve and finesse. Chalky minerals combine with a brilliant core of black fruit flavors, alongside fennel and tar notes. Drink 2024-2038- 94

2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Candy Mountain Vineyard’ Red Wine- The brilliant 2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Candy Mountain Vineyard’ Red Wine is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (70%) with the remainder Merlot. Fresh sage and thyme mark the nose alongside scorched earth and black currants. The palate is soft and refined with smooth tannins and medium to full bodied dark fruits with shades of Black Forest Cake. While this is beautifully structured I would prefer a touch more richness considering the vintage. Drink 2024-2036- 92

2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot- A great wine under 30 dollars, the 2021 ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot has 12% Cabernet Franc blended in with a touch of Malbec and Petit Verdot. Dark chocolate covered cherry and roasted date with anise notes all fill the nose. The palate is soft and delicious with a refined texture. This is a killer value. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Estate’ Merlot- Coming from the Seven Hills and Ferguson Vineyards, the wine has 14% Cabernet Franc blended in as well as 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. Chocolate cake and dark currants alongside sagebrush and blackberry notes all fill the nose. The palate is soft and refined with a great sense of richness and verve. Incredibly balanced, this is a total knockout at under 50 bucks. Drink 2024-2038- 94

2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Cabernet Franc-Merlot’ Red Wine- The really good 2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Cabernet Franc-Merlot’ Red Wine was stored in only 15% new French oak before bottling. Equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc form the Seven Hills Vineyard, this delivers red bell pepper. Milk chocolate, tar, and dried herbs on the palate. Drink 2024-2038- 93

2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- 100% varietal the 2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from a range of site throughout the Columbia Valley. Dark in the glass, this offers rich figs and milk chocolate notes alongside blackberry and tobacco on the nose. The palate is soft and refined with a silky texture and good sense of weight. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘50th Leaf Bacchus Vineyard Block 3’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon coming form the Bacchus Vineyard is remarkably in its 50th leaf, coming from one of the oldest sites in the Columbia Valley. The wine shows beautiful fresh herbs on the nose alongside dark cherry and wild blackberry notes. The palate is soft and refined with a great sense of verve. Finishing long with tobacco leaf and milk chocolate this is a refined, elegant Cabernet Sauvignon that has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2024-2039- 94

2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This 100% varietal wine was sourced from the Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills, Summit View, Eritage and Yellow Jacket as well as Wailer Vineyards. Stored in 25% new French oak barrels before bottling, this delivers black currants and dark rose petals that combine with wet stone and black raspberry notes. The palate is soft and layered with good refinement and underlying texture. A killer wine from a killer vintage, savor this beauty now and over the next fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2024-2038- 94

2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Perigee’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Perigee’ comes for the Seven Hills Vineyard and combines 50% Cabernet Sauvignon with 24% Merlot and the remainder Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Stored in 40% new French oak before bottling, this is a full-bodied joyride of a wine that is sumptuous and delicious to consume now. Creme de cassis, anise, loganberry cordial, pencil lead and copious garrigue notes all combine on the palate. This is seriously good wine for the price. Give this at least an hour of air if consuming now. Drink 2024-2044- 96

2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Apogee’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Apogee’ is a knockout wine that has bene made since the 1993 vintage. A blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Stored for 22 months in 40% new French oak, this offers dark currants and stony accents on the nose alongside sagebrush, dark chocolate shavings and tar. The palate is soft and refined with good richness and copious minerals. Really good now, this needs about a year or two in the cellar for everything to come together. Drink 2025-2044- 95

2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Ferguson Vineyard’ Red Wine- A stunning wine from this warm vintage, the 2021 ‘Ferguson Vineyard’ comes from this unique site that is set on fractured basal with a thin layer of windswept loess. This 2021 edition combines 56% Cabernet Sauvignon with 18% Merlot with the remainder Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Wet rock and graphite tones that combine with sandalwood, dark chocolate shavings, black florals and suggestions of menthol on the nose. The palate is rich and layered with a gorgeous sense of verve and great flavor density. Very stony, showing serious tension and terroir, this is a stunning new bottling that will live for another twenty plus years to come. Drink 2024-2045- 96

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Here are the beautiful new releases by Elentone.

Elentone

April 11, 2024

Today we share one of the electric sparkling wine producers on the west coast. A small production winery out of Washington, Elentone is the brainchild of winemaker Chris Sherry. Sherry hails from Brighton in southern England, which is somewhat of a stone’s throw from England’s premier sparkling wine country. Sherry is an avid Brighton football supporter and shares the same passion for sparkling wines. He has formerly trained under Morgan Lee at Two Vintners.
Each wine is crafted in the traditional Champagne method and are given a limited dosage (2G/L in both wines I tasted). Just as the last releases by Elentone, these are very fresh and show fantastic underlying acidity with a soft mousse. Most wines stand en tirage for more than three years. Both 2020 and 2021 were warm vintages that Sherry is bullish on. Sherry said that in 2021 “Everything was thick and fast. I was at Two Vintners at the time and we were picking Zinfandel at 28 brix in August. We picked these wines at the right time and the acid had not dropped off. It was still very acidic.”
I love the wines coming from the Rainmaker Vineyard in the Columbia Gorge AVA. This site produces wines with serious nerve and lovely salty character. I love the new 2020 Elentone ‘Brut Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 93) which shows good richness from this warm vintage and also beautiful melon and nutty tones. Learn more about these beautiful wines at elentone.com and here are the outstanding new wines by Elentone.

2021 Elentone ‘Willow Blanc de Noirs’ Sparkling Wine- This Pinot Noir sparkling wine come from the Clos Cheval Vineyard in the Lake Chelan AVA. Given 2G/L dosage this was harvested early in August. Guava and ripe melon tones combine with ripe strawberry on the nose. Showing a soft mouthfeel, this offers good richness and a refined mousse. The palate has very delicate and red fruit tones. Beautifully balanced, showing good weight and freshness, enjoy now and over the next eight plus years to come. Drink 2024-2032- 93

2020 Elentone ‘Brut Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine- Coming from the Rainmaker Vineyard, this was given zero dosage. Barrel fermented, this was aged on the lees for three years prior to disgorgement in March 2024. All Chardonnay, this was picked considerably before the smoke event in September. This comes off very rich with honeyed almonds, toasty buttered brioche, Japanese pear and suggestions of honeydew melon on the palate. Drink 2024-2034- 93

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Robert Brittan crafts some of the finest Pinot Noir in the Willamette Valley.

Brittan Vineyards

April 10, 2024

I have long admired the wines by Robert Brittan, former winemaker at Stags’ Leap Winery in Napa. Brittan is a former graduate of the UC Davis Viticulture and Enology program and founded Brittan Vineyards in 2004, acquiring a 128-acre hillside property with soils that are a mixture of glacial deposits and volcanic material, with a predominant presence of broken basalt. There is nothing quite like this rustic, stony property in the Willamette Valley — only a few others have vines set like this.

The stony nuance in the wines is just mesmerizing. The Brittan Estate Vineyard has Pinot Noir planted as well as 4 acres of Chardonnay and 1.5 acres of Syrah have been planted. In addition to his own wines, Brittan serves as the winemaker for several other brands.

The new Cru wines come from the 2021 vintage, one that was warm and exceptionally good throughout the Willamette Valley. I adore the new 2021 Brittan Vineyards ‘Basalt Block’ Pinot Noir  (OB, 96) which is wonderfully stony and is amongst the finest of these wines made. Learn more about the great wines of Brittan Vineyards at http://www.brittanvineyards.com Here are the brilliant releases by Brittan Vineyards.  

2022 Brittan Vineyards ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- The 2022 Brittan Vineyards ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir offers ash and stony essence on the nose alongside red rose petals, orange peel and suggestions of menthol. The palate is fresh and concentrated with vibrant underlying acidity. Showing good weight and length, this beauty has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2024-2036- 93

2021 Brittan Vineyards ‘Basalt Block’ Pinot Noir- A stunning wine, the 2022 ‘Basalt Block’ is comes from estate Pommard and Dijon clone 667, 777, 115 and Swan clonal selection Pinot Noir vines. Stored for 12 months in only 15% new French oak, this is very inky in the glass. Boysenberry and iodine tones combine with smoldering stones, forest floor and shades of cardamom laced orange zest. The heady aromatics bring you back to the glass for more enjoyment. The palate is fresh and polished with a fantastic sense of verve and richness. Thrilling with its stony profile and bright underlying acidity with a seamless texture, enjoy this beauty now and over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 96

2021 Brittan Vineyards ‘Cygnus Block’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 ‘Cygnus Block’ comes from this southeast facing edge in the Brittan Estate Vineyard that was planted in 2008 to Swan selection. Once on the nose this exudes class with white pepper dusted huckleberry, marionberry, peat moss and suggestions of wet stone. The palate is soft and refined throughout the drinking experience. Showing no rough edges with a brilliant core of black fruits and stony minerals, this is a downright classy Pinot Noir that has a long life ahead of it. Enjoy this medium to full-bodied beauty now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2024-2040- 96

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Here are the incredible future 2021 Syrah releases by Cayuse Vineyards.

Cayuse Vineyards

April 9, 2024

Today we share some of the finest wines in North America. Famed Cayuse Vineyards is a story about singular terroir. Christophe Baron was raised in Champagne and was was the youngest heir of the famed Champagne house, Baron Albert. His ancestors had worked the land at Baron Albert since 1677. As a young boy Christophe worked harvests and eventually studied viticulture in Burgundy and Champagne. After some travels he was drawn to the Willamette Valley, and was set on making great Pinot Noir. One day he was outside of Walla Walla and saw terroir inspired by the stony galets of Chateauneuf du Pape. We are all thankful that he decided to plant his vineyard back in 1997 and the rest has been history. Christophe has had unparalleled success in the Walla Walla Valley since that time, crafting stony wines that show an incredible combination of tension, range and terroir.

While I regularly sit with Christophe and Bionic Wines director of winemaking, Elizabeth Bourcier, to taste their wines, this year I took my time with the wines in my home over many hours. 2021 is turning out to be a beautiful vintage for red wines. Elizabeth Bourcier makes some of the finest Rose you will taste in the New World. I was blown away with the 2022 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Edith’ Rose (OB, 95) which is texturally elegant and very layered with serious nuance. Don’t miss out on the perfect 2021 Cayuse Vineyards ‘God Only Knows’ Red Wine (OB, 100) which is very Chateau Rayas in its mouthfeel, silky texture and pure red fruits. Equally good is the 2021 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Bionic Frog’ Syrah (OB, 100) which is a total masterclass, with gobs of stuffing and mouth-watering acidity. Learn more about these incredible future release wines at https://cayusevineyards.com Here are the incredible wines by Cayuse Vineyards (release fall 2024).

2022 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Cailloux Vineyard’ Viognier- This stunning 100% Viognier was soured from the stony Cailloux Vineyard, planted in 1997 and set outside the town of Milton-Freewater, Oregon. The 2022 Viognier was aged in both concrete eggs and stainless steel prior to bottling. The wine is aromatically stunning with star jasmine and honeysuckle tones that combine with Macadamia nut and wet rocks. The palate is silky smooth throughout the drinking experience, with impeccable balance in terms of weight, verve and texture. It is best consumed on the warmer side. Rich honeydew melon, starfruit and shades of mango, with copious stony minerals all combine on the palate. A wow-factor white wine from this story terroir, consume this beauty now and over the next seven plus years. Drink 2024-2031- 96

2022 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Edith’ Rose- Another knockout Rose release, the 2022 ‘Edith’ was sourced from the Armada Vineyard and is 100% Grenache that was aged for10 months in a combination of stainless steel and concrete. A gorgeous pink hue, this opens with wet stone, juicy nectarine and bright red fruits, with light red rose petal and white grapefruit blossom tones. The palate is remarkably smooth and textured, with fabulous underlying finesse. Very pretty strawberry and guava fruit flavors combine with pomegranate, tangerine zest, with stony essence. This may just be the finest edition of this wine made as this is arguably the finest Rose from the Pacific Northwest that I have ever tasted. Only 149 cases made. Drink 2024-2032- 95

2021 Cayuse Vineyards ‘God Only Knows’ Red Wine- Showing a deeper core than the 2020 bottling, the stunning 2021 ‘God Only Knows’ Red Wine has a small amount of Syrah blended in. Coming from the stony Armada Vineyard , planted in 2001, the Grenache was stored for 21 months. Once on the nose this exudes class with its dizzying array of aromatics, ranging from red currants, wet stone and Hoisin sauce to black truffle shavings, Nori and shades of tangerine zest. The palate is deep and concentrated, as well as exceedingly stony. Not for the weary, this produces a silky texture and has serious weight yet reminds very light on its feet. Very fresh, showing great underlying finesse, this is generous in its core of downright sexy red fruit flavors, with copious minerals. Reminiscent of the 2018, this is nothing short of perfection in a bottle. You could buy Chateau Rayas and pay five times the price of this bottle. Save your money and purchase this stunner while you can. Only 538 cases made. Drink 2024-2034- 100

2021 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Flying Pig’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Flying Pig’ is a stunning blend of mostly Cabernet Franc (59%) with the remainder Merlot and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is marvelously stony, as it was aged in 30% new French oak before bottling. Garrigue and wet stone parade around chocolate, allspice dusted black currants and bacon fat tones on the palate. Gorgeous and full of life, with bright underlying tension, enjoy this beauty now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2024-2036- 96

2021 Cayuse Vineyards ‘The Lovers’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘The Lovers’ has a touch more Cabernet Sauvignon (90%) than the previous 2020 bottling. Thyme and crushed mint flavors mingle well with bright Bing cherry, wet stone, anise and shades of steak tartare on the palate. Refined and generous with its broad mouthfeel, richness and length, this is a fabulous effort that is drinking marvelous now and will continue to produce enjoyment for another ten years. Drink 2024-2034- 95

2021 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Camaspelo’ Red Wine- The brilliant new 2021 ‘Camaspelo’ is a silky combination of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller portions Cabernet Franc and Merlot that was aged for 19 months in 30% new French oak. The wine shows off oyster sauce notes on the palate alongside scorched earth, coffee grounds and Umami notes on the palate, alongside pure red fruit flavors. The mouth-watering acidity is really impressive as this beautiful wine will show well for another decade. Drink 2024-2034- 96

2021 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Widowmaker En Chamberlin Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- One of the great Cabernet Sauvignon wines from this region, the 100% varietal ‘Widowmaker’ was stored for 18 months in 30% new French oak before bottling. Initially alluring with violets and black tea as well as tar and kirsch with sandalwood accents all line the noes. The palate is deep and rich, loaded with rich black fruits, stony essence, orange peel and exotic spices. A stunner in this warm vintage, as the seamless texture makes this beauty glide, enjoy this fantastic Cabernet Sauvignon bottling now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2024-2038— 96

2020 Cayuse ‘Cailloux Vineyard’ Syrah- A world-class wine from the stones, the 2021 ‘Cailloux Vineyard’ has only 3% Viognier blended in. Stored for 18 months in large format oak barrels (15% new) this site was first planted all the way back in 1997. An inky color, this opens with a gorgeous bouquet of Mandarin orange blossom, gunpowder, smoked brisket and seaweed notes. The palate is fresh and refined with a silky texture and great sense of underlying tension and weight. Showing some serous stony character, this is a beautiful wine that will cellar well over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2024-2034- 98

2020 Cayuse Vineyards ‘En Cerise Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2021’En Cerise Vineyard’ Syrah comes from this location that was formerly a cherry farm that was planted to Syrah by vigneron Christophe Baron back in 1998. Stored for 18 months in 15% new French oak, this opens with wet stone and Nori notes that combine with pretty pink grapefruit blossom and shades of bulls blood, garrigue and charcuterie. The palate is vibrant and deep with a silky texture, showing no rough edges. A joy to consume now in its fresh and full-throttle youth, savor this beauty over the next decade. What a wine! Drink 2024-2034- 99

2021 Cayuse Vineyards ‘En Chamberlin Vineyard’ Syrah- The incredible 2021 Cayuse ‘En Chamberlin was first planted to phyloxera resistant rootstock in 2000 as this ten acre site is set on ancient cobblestones. The nose is beautifully fragrant with pink florals that combine with smoke, Herbs de Provence, white pepper dusted bacon and shades of green olive tapenade. The palate is seamless and wonderfully stony, as this flirts with perfection showing a very pure black and red fruit profile, loaded with stony and Umami nuance. Everything is in marvelous balance here in terms of weight, texture and underlying freshness. Drink 2024-2034- 99

2021 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Bionic Frog’ Syrah- A total stunner, the 2021 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Bionic Frog’ is a bigger, bolder edition than the outstanding 2020. Aged in 20% new large format French oak before bottling, the heady aromatics hit you with roasted dates, black currants, Nori, smoldering stones, iodine and shades of menthol that all meld in the glass. The palate is plush, round and generous with an opulent texture and great sense of underlying tension. The push-pull between richness and verve is perfection and pure silk to consume. A sensational wine to indulge in now, this has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2024-2036- 100

2021 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Armada Vineyard’ Syrah- The intoxicating 2021 ‘Armada Vineyard’ Syrah is an otherworldly effort from this warm vintage. Planted at roughly 1800 vines per acre, this 7-acre vineyard, created in 2001 was the highest density planting in the Walla Walla Valley until 2008. Weighing in at 14.1% alcohol, this opens with an intense bouquet of iodine, chorizo and red rose petals that combine with orange blossom, tar and sweet pipe tobacco. The palate is viscous and smooth with a marvelous sense of mouthfeel, weight and finesse. This bottling is considerably better than the outstanding 2020, as this is utter perfection in the glass with its oyster sauce and rocky soil accents on the palate. Loaded with mouth-watering acidity and weight, what a pleasure this is to consume now. Drink 2024-2034- 100

2021 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Wallah Wallah Special #15 Syrah (1.5L)- This ebullient, magnum-only ‘Wallah Walla Special #15’ Syrah is sourced from a range of Christophe Baron’s vineyards which he and director of winemaking Elizabeth Bourcier have chosen to make this blend. This may be the finest edition of this wine to date. Stored in roughly 15% new French oak for 18 months, the wine is highly refined and a stunning combination of savory, stony and black fruits. Tar and tobacco leaf mingle well with Umami and charcuterie notes on the palate, as this is beautifully textured and flirts with perfection. An incredible wine made in a great vintage, enjoy this beauty now and over the next fifteen years. But why wait? Drink 2024-2038- 99

2021 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Impulsive’ Tempranillo- Coming from the En Chamberlin Vineyard, the 2021 ‘Impulsivo’ is a hedonistic, beautiful wine from this outstanding vintage. On the nose this takes on layers of hoisin sauce and bacon fat that parade with wet stone, dark currants, crushed wet stones, huckleberry compote and beautiful black florals. The palate is soft and refined with a silky texture and beautiful sense of elegance. Finishing long with stony, chocolate and herbal accents, this is a stunning new wine that has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2024-2038- 98

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Great photo of Beth Weber Novak (L) and her mother Mary Weber Novak (R), of Spottswoode.

Interview with Beth Weber Novak, President and CEO of Spottswoode

April 8, 2024

Today we share the remarkable story of Beth Weber Novak. Novak has been Spottswoode President and CEO now for many years, and has managed a key role in establishing Spottswoode as one of the world’s most highly regarded winegrowing sites, and as one of Napa Valley’s most iconic and respected wineries. The wines are truly some of the most beautiful in the valley, as she shares her experiences being the first woman president of the Napa Valley Vintners as well as how certified organic translates into world-class wines. I think you will really enjoy my exclusive interview with Napa Valley icon, Beth Weber Novak.

OB: How important has it been for Spottswoode to be farmed certified organic since 1992?

BN: Having our organic certification for the past 32 years has been incredibly important (we have actually farmed organically since 1985). In many ways, our longstanding commitment to organic farming established the foundation for how we envision and approach our relationship with the environment, and our overall belief in the idea of stewardship. At heart, making wine is an agricultural-based endeavor, and if we want to ensure our success and vitality as an industry for generations to come, we need to be making meaningful changes now. For Spottswoode, farming organically was an absolutely pivotal early step, but there have been many more since.

OB: Can you talk about your experience being the youngest member ever to be president of Napa Valley Vintners back in 1998? How did your experience help impact Napa Valley tourism?

BN: It was both exciting, and an honor, to be the youngest ever president of the NVV. I was also the first woman president. I very much enjoyed working alongside Linda Reiff, NVV’s Executive Director. I feel we made an impact, and we both learned a lot from one another. This experience did not, in my view, impact Napa Valley tourism in any way.

OB: You produce what I consider to be two benchmark wines, your Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. By farming your estate organically, how does this help translate to top notch fruit quality and world-class wine in the bottle?

BN: I am excited by the fact that if you look around the world, you find that many of the greatest wine estates now farm organically, biodynamically, regenerative organically, or all three (we are certified in all). Often these are multigenerational family-run estates who understand that their vineyards are their most precious resource, so they farm with a very long view of quality, and of the health of their land. As more and more of the world’s greatest wineries adopt, or return to, these practices it is showing the world that embracing a more holistic, environmentally aware approach results in extraordinary wines. We see this in our own Estate Vineyard—it is a healthy and thriving organism that is full of microbial life, which in turn makes it more resilient to the effects of climate change and more capable of producing wines with a profound and distinctive sense of place.

OB: Wine ecotourism has become more and more prominent worldwide. What can the Napa Valley do to promote these practices and what are some basic changes that can be done by wineries to make them more environmentally friendly or sustainable?

BN: Ultimately, I would like to see Napa Valley become one of the world’s most environmentally forward-thinking wine regions. For a region of our quality and stature, I think it is incumbent upon us to be leaders, and to think long-term about the preservation of the environment and climate that has been the wellspring of our success. This requires working collectively whenever possible, which is why I helped to found the Napa Valley Vintners’ Environmental Stewardship Committee, and why we at Spottswoode work with our grower partners to help them transition to organic farming. In terms of basic changes wineries can make, especially for those just starting to embrace a more environmentally sound approach, there is almost always a lot of low hanging fruit. Start small.

Begin with the easy changes and then once you’ve started to develop a culture of stewardship that values the environment, scale up and think bigger. Another key to success is to quantify everything—how much water are you using, how much energy? Once you establish baselines it will help to guide the changes you need to make. Napa Green Vineyard is a great place to start. They have the resources to help with this.

OB: I have long admired Spottswoode Estate Cabernet as a wine that ages so gracefully for decades. I fondly recall enjoying a bottle of the 1991 with friends a few years back. Do you have any favorite vintages that you have been enjoying? How have some of the more challenging years like 1998 and 2000 been showing?

BN: It is nearly impossible for me to select favorite vintages – each has meaning to me, unique memories, and defining characteristics, whether it be through the weather we experienced in those years, the birth of a child, the death of one’s mother, so many milestones over many decades. As to the 1988, 1998, 2000, 2011 and 2017, all considered challenging vintages for different reasons, to be honest, each is showing beautifully right now.

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Here are the incredible new wines by From The Sky Down and winemaker Todd Alexander.

From The Sky Down

April 8, 2024

Today we share an iconic new project — a collaboration between Matthews owner Bryan Otis and famed winemaker Todd Alexander. Avallé today announced this new project  which is an exploration of single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from elite sites across the Columbia Valley AVA. The initial release includes three wines from the 2021 vintage, each a single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from Conner Lee (Columbia Valley), Solaksen (Royal Slope), and Heart of the Hill (Red Mountain). “Avallé is focused on empowering remarkable winemakers with select vineyards to showcase the dynamic range of what the Columbia Valley has to offer,” said Bryan Otis, Proprietor of Avallé. “Our region is only as great as our vineyards, and the winemakers who craft wine from them. I am thrilled to partner with Todd Alexander on From the Sky Down. Todd is a true talent who can coax out the unique characteristics of each vineyard and maximize its potential. Our region is lucky to have him here.” The wines will be exclusively poured at Atelier Freewater which is an exclusive tasting room owned by Carrie and Todd Alexander.

The family behind Matthews Winery recently created Avallé (pronounced “Ah-va-lay”) to combine its growing portfolio of wines (Matthews, Tenor, Jaine, Blackboard, and Single Barrel) into one collection. The name, From the Sky Down, which implies terroir, encompasses all the elements that impact each site and vintage. The new wines were extraordinary. I love the new 2021 From The Sky Down ‘Connor Lee Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 99) which flirts with perfection and is deep and concentrated wine that has a long way to go in the cellar.

2021 From The Sky Down ‘Connor Lee Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming from plantings from 1987 and 1992 plantings, with 5% Merlot added, the 2021 From The Sky Down ‘Connor Lee Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon offers rich kirsch cordial and creme de cassis notes alongside sagebrush and sweet pipe tobacco notes on the nose. The palate is soft and plush with a refined texture and serious sense of weight. Salty soils, ultra-refined tannins and a lengthy finish complete this beautiful wine that is drinking marvelously right now. Drink 2024-2040- 99

2021 From The Sky Down ‘Solaksen Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This beautiful wine comes from Block 5 in the vineyard, with mainly Clone 337 Cabernet Sauvignon which is the most widely planted clone in the Napa Valley. Once on the nose this shows walnut tones on the nose alongside cassis, anise and exotic spices. There is a brilliant fruit spectrum on the palate, ranging from red to dark fruit alongside espresso grounds, graphite and scorched earthy tones. Drink 2024-2040- 97

2021 From The Sky Down ‘Heart of The Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2021 From The Sky Down ‘Heart of The Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from this brilliant site on Red Mountain. This wine comes from a single block in the vineyard (Clone 2) as this was stored in 75% new French oak before bottling. Turkish coffee  and Asian spices mark the nose alongside black tea, blackberry compote and violet rose petals. The heady aromatics bring you back to the glass for more enjoyment. The palate is intense and very dense with refined texture and serious verve. A total stunner, this is going to be a head-turning wine for decades to come. Drink 2024-2045- 99

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Here is the gorgeous 2017 Leonetti Cabernet.

Cellar Selection: 2017 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon

April 5, 2024

It was a festive day of getting ready for a big Arsenal soccer match in London. I relaxed with friends at my hotel in eager anticipating of the match later that evening. Winemaker Chris Figgins is a massive Arsenal supporter like myself so I decided to bring with me on the trip, the 2017 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon.

For my palate, 2017 was a really nice vintage for red wine. It might not have the massive flavor density or structure of the 2018s but it certainly was a more impressive vintage for reds than 2019. In some cases 2017 had some issues with wildfires but most 2017 reds I have tasted did not have any smoke impact.

Now about the wine, the 2017 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon really needed about an hour of air to get fully going. That being said, do not be afraid to open this wine if you have it resting in your cellar. It is a hedonistic gem and is drinking marvelously now at the seven year mark. Here is my review of the cellar selection, the 2017 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon and learn more at leonetticellar.com

2017 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon- A beautiful wine to enjoy now, the 2017 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon really needs about an hour of air before consuming. Once aroused, this is beautifully structured stuff with refined tannins that greet you. Sweet pipe tobacco, mocha, tar and dark currant notes all collide on the palate. Full-bodied and dense, with espresso ground , sagebrush and chocolate accents, this is a total stunner that will live on for at least another ten years. Drink 2024-2038- 96

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Elizabeth Keyser crafts some beautiful wines for Rocky Pond.

Rocky Pond

April 5, 2024

There have been some serious moves being made at Rocky Pond. They started by hiring John Ware several years back as president. John had a masterful hand in helping Quilceda Creek become the powerhouse that it is today in American wine. John has been doing a beautiful job at Rocky Pond, hiring Elizabeth Keyser from HALL. Keyser helped make what for my palate is some of the finest wine you will taste in the Napa Valley.

Rocky Pond was started by David and Michelle Dufenhorst. Over the past four years they have added the masterful touch of Steve Levesque to serve as consulting winemaker, former HALL winemaker. The quality of the wines are getting better and better. Tasting with Elizabeth Keyser I was very impressed with what is coming down the pipeline. The best wine I tried was the 2022 Rocky Pond ‘Statastone’ Red Wine (OB, 93) which is rich and beautifully textured stuff with meaty character.  Learn more about this winery at https://rockypondwinery.com Here are the new release wines by Rocky Pond.

2023 Rocky Pond ‘Clos CheValle’ Riesling (BARREL SAMPLE)- The 2023 Rocky Pond ‘Clos CheValle’ Riesling is made in the Trocken style. Petrol, peach and green apple mark the nose. The palate shows good texture and mouthfeel with good richness and bright underlying acidity. Drink 2024-2030- 91

2023 Rocky Pond ‘Clos CheValle’ Gewurtztraminer (BARREL SAMPLE)- The 2023 Rocky Pond ‘Clos CheValle’ Gewurtztraminer offers rich nectarine and star jasmine on the nose alongside sweetened gooseberry notes. Just a kiss of sweetness greets you alongside a smooth texture and fantastic length. This is seriously good stuff. Drink 2024-2030- 92

2022 Rocky Pond ‘Stratastone’ Red Wine (BARREL SAMPLE)- This 2022 ‘Stratastone’ is near equal parts Grenache, Syrah and Mourvdere as the Grenache was 35% whole cluster fermented. This was staged in roughly 30% new French oak before bottling. Sage and dark currants mingle well with salty soils on the nose. The palate is soft and refined with silky tannins that frame a core of smoked meats, black currants and shades of loganberry preserves alongside bright freshness. This is really well-done. Drink 2024-2034- 93

2022 Rocky Pond ‘Estate’ Syrah- The ‘Estate’ comes mainly from the Double D Vineyard. Stored in 30% new French oak before bottling. Creosote and white pepper dusted BBQ ribs combine with suggestions of coffee grounds, blackberries and green olives on the nose. The palate shows good finesse with a soft texture. Rich and viscous, this is showing beautifully right now. Drink 2024-2034- 93

2022 Rocky Pond ‘Studio’ Syrah- This is a new wine to the Rocky Pond lineup, as the 2022 ‘Studio’ offers whole cluster Viognier and Syrah which comes from a block from the Clos CheValle Vineyard. White pepper and bacon fat combine with honeysuckle notes and dark currants on the nose. The palate is beautifully textured with good length and salty mineral accents. Very floral and complex, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next eight years. Drink 2024-2032- 93

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You have to love the Selosse-inspired glass in these serious sparkling wines by Corollary.

Corollary

April 5, 2024

One of the beautiful sparkling producers of the Pacific Northwest, Corollary Wines seeks to explore Oregon terroir in their brilliant program of bubbles. The owners began more and more focusing on grower producers of champagne and then started making traditional-method sparkling cider in their garage. Then in 2017 they produced their first Oregon vintage and are now making roughly 2000 cases annually. In 2022, they acquired 57 acres of land in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA they are one of Oregon's privately-owned property dedicated exclusively to sparkling wines.

The wines were seriously nervy and well-made. The have excellent value. I love the refined mousse and very nuanced flavors in each bottling — these are wines of intension. I adore the 2019 Corollary ‘X-Omni Vineyard Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 94) which has gobs of citrus character and wonderful tension. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://corollarywines.com/ and here are my reviews of the new wines by Corollary.

2019 Corollary ‘X-Omni Vineyard Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine- The brilliant 2019 Corollary ‘X-Omni Vineyard Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine shows rich lemon rind and green apple tones on the nose alongside bright peach notes. The palate has beautiful tension and finesse, with gobs of mouth-watering acidity. This is refined BDB that has some serious lift and verve, with a silky mousse. Drink 2024-2034- 94

2019 Corollary ‘Namaste Vineyard’ Sparkling Wine- This 100% Chardonnay comes from the Namaste Vineyard, with some of the oldest Chardonnay vines planted in the Van Duzer Corridor. Crushed seashells and lime zest collide with hints of rind zest on the palate. A beautiful mousse greets you upon entry, as this has brilliant weight and length. This is seriously good and get it while you can — only 81 cases made. Drink 2024-2034-  94

2019 Corollary ‘Winter’s Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Blanc- Inspired by the wines of the Alsace region, this Pinot Blanc sparkling wine was sourced from this Dundee Hills outpost set on volcanic soils. Rich and fat on the tongue, this shows wonderful nutty accents that combine with rich cantaloupe fruit flavors alongside poached pear and toasty French bread. This has to be the finest wine of its kind made in the New World. Drink 2024-2032- 93

2020 Corollary ‘Cuvee One Brut’ Sparkling Wine- The outstanding 2020 Corollary ‘Cuvee One Brut’ Sparkling Wine is their entry level wine that really impresses for the price. A unique blend comprised of 39% Namaste Vineyard Chardonnay, 22% Winter's Hill Vineyard Pinot Blanc, 20% X-Omni Chardonnay, with the remainder Lonesome Rock and Cattrall Brothers Pinot Noir, the wine was given nearly 10G/L dosage. This is big and generous from the Pinot Noir, with ripe raspberry and honeydew melon flavors that combine with wet stone and salted mixed nuts. A killer wine at 45 dollars, grab this while you can. Drink 2024-2034- 93

2020 Corollary ‘Momtazi Vineyard Extra Brut’ Rose Sparkling Wine- Coming from this esteemed steep hill with both volcanic and marine sedimentary soils, the 2020 Corollary ‘Momtazi Vineyard Extra Brut’ Sparkling Wine was disgorged in December 2023. A gorgeous pink hue, this opens with beautiful pomegranate and red raspberry tones on the nose with salty minerals. This is very focused and refined bubbles, loaded with tart red fruit flavors alongside copious minerals, kumquat zest, green melon and wet stone. Really good with a refined mousse, enjoy this focused sparkling wine now and over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2024-2034- 94

2020 Corollary ‘Cuvee One Extra Brut’ Rose Sparkling Wine- Also very pretty in the glass, the ‘Cuvee One Extra Brut’ Rose Sparkling Wine is sourced from five sites throughout the Willamette Valley. Smooth upon entry, tart pomegranate and Yakima cherry fruits mingle well with green apple and shades of cardamom on the palate. Soft and refined, with a great mousse, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Only 161 cases made. Drink 2024-2032- 93

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Here are the beautiful new wines by Lavinea.

Lavinea

April 5, 2024

A winery making top class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Lavinea was founded by Greg Ralston and Isabelle Meunier. From 1988 to 2009 Greg worked closely with Jim Barrett at Chateau Montelena Winery, the last ten years as Managing Director. He then took on a role as Sr. VP of Strategic Initiatives with Wilson Daniels, collaborating with Jack Daniels and renowned Estates such as Castello di Volpaia and Ceretto from Italy, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti and Domaine Leflaive from Burgundy, Schramsberg from Napa Valley among others. Recruited to become President & CEO of Evening Land Vineyards in 2012, Greg oversaw related wineries in California, Burgundy and Oregon.

Lavinea relies on the winemaking talents of Isabelle Meunier, who formerly worked for Dominique Lafon to oversee winemaking at his then-new Oregon consulting project, Evening Land, in 2007. Isabelle quickly became one of Oregon’s most acclaimed winemakers. Isabelle has degrees in winemaking and viticulture from the University of Dijon in Burgundy, and in New Zealand at Lincoln University. Her new wines were spectacular. I adored the 2021 Lavinea ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) which is fresh and vibrant with serious tension and nuance. Learn more about these top class wines at lavinea.com and here are my reviews of the new wines by Lavinea.

2022 Lavinea ‘Eola-Amity Hills’ Chardonnay- Fresh and polished, the 2021 ‘Eola-Amity Hills’ Vineyard offers plenty of stony minerals on the palate, offering smoke, white pepper, green melon and shades of Japanese pear. Fresh and vibrant, with a Chablisesque sense of salty and diatomaceous soil essence, this is very refined Chardonnay that is already nicely evolved. Drink 2024-2032- 93

2021 Lavinea ‘Elton Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Even better than the ‘Eola-Amity Hills’ bottling the 2021 ‘Elton Vineyard’ comes form this site that was first planted in 1983 and later expanded in 2013. This is vibrant, fresh and beautifully textured Chardonnay. Loads of mouth-watering acidity greet you on the palate, with poached pear, kumquat zest, and salty soils. Very elegant and sleek, enjoy this beauty now and over the next ten years. Drink 2024-2034- 94

2022 Lavinea ‘Eola-Amity Hills’ Pinot Noir- Very fresh and fragrant, the 2022 ‘Eola-Amity Hills’ Pinot Noir offers plenty of crunchy red raspberry and pomegranate flavors that mingle well with tilled soils and suggestions of baking spices with Mandarin orange rind. This is going to age gracefully over the next decade. Drink 2024-2032- 93

2021 Lavinea ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2021 Lavinea ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a stunning new bottling from this warm vintage. Once on the nose this shows off layers of salty soils that collide with red currants, tobacco leaf and shades of Linzer torte. The palate is refined and very fresh with a silky texture and beautiful core of red fruit flavors. Well-balanced, with no rough edges, and a sprinkling of white pepper, this is a sensational new bottling that has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2024-2038- 95

2021 Lavinea ‘Elton Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 ‘Elton Vineyard’ comes from this site in the Eola-Amity Hills with vines planted back to the 1980s. This comes off rich and generous with a refined texture and smooth mouthfeel. Layers of black raspberry and freshly tilled salty soils combine with shades of bergamot and kumquat rind on the palate. Great to savor now in its heady youth, enjoy now and over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 94

2021 Lavinea ‘Tualatin Estate’ Pinot Noir- The beautiful and refined 2021 Lavinea ‘Tualatin Estate’ Pinot Noir is a fantastic new bottling from this vintage. Aromatically perfumed and intense, this offers potpourri and bright red fruits that collide with orange blossom and shades of enoki mushroom. The palate is pure with a gorgeous core of red fruits, with serious freshness, texture and resolve. Finishing very long, this is a beautiful new bottling that has some great cellaring potential. Drink 2024-2040- 94

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Here are the stunning new spring 2024 releases by Avennia.

Avennia

April 4, 2024

This is now the second post on Avennia in the past four months that I have done right after tasting. I do this because the wines are just so good. A premier producers of Rhone and Bordeaux varietals, Avennia is a joint venture between former Microsoft exec Marty Taucher and winemaker Chris Peterson. These wines are incredibly consistent and extremely well-made.

At the helm is former DeLille Cellars Winemaker Chris Peterson. He is one of the greats in the state for crafting wines with balance, poise and richness. While he makes some sensational red wines, he has an affinity for making some of the state’s finest whites. Case in point the 2022 Avennia ‘La Perle’ White Wine (OB, 95) is the finest edition of this wine yet. Big and bold with serious richness and flavor density this is a must-try wine. I adore the 2021 Avennia ‘Valery’ Red Wine (OB, 96) which is a total knockout Merlot.  Learn more about these special wines at avennia.com Here are my reviews of the new Avennia wines. 

2022 Avennia ‘Oliane’ Sauvignon Blanc- This beautiful 2022 Sauvignon Blanc was sourced from the Boushey (62%) and Red Willow (38%) vineyards in the Yakima Valley. On the nose this takes on layers of kiwi, sourdough bread and green melon notes that all take shape in the glass. The palate is beautifully textured with serious underlying verve. Soft, round and generous on the mouth, don’t serve this beautiful wine too warm. Drink 2024-2032- 93

2022 Avennia ‘La Perle’ White Wine- The 2022 ‘La Perle’ is a seductive blend of mainly 78% Roussanne with the remainder Marsanne coming from the Columbia Valley. Macadamia nut and beeswax tones combine on the nose with shades of banana and ripe mango, giving this a very tropical feel. The palate is deep, concentrated and beautifully textured, as this has to be the finest edition of this wine yet made — a total heavyhitter by winemaker Chris Peterson. Drink 2024-2033- 95

2023 Avennia ‘L’Egerie’ Rosę- The 2023 ‘L’Egerie’ or ‘The Muse’ Rose is mainly Grenache (70%) with the remainder Mourvèdre. A beautiful pale salmon color, this offers serious freshness with copious minerals that mingle well with cran-orange, wild mushroom, ripe red raspberry and suggestions of cantaloupe. Very refined and sleek, enjoy this delicious, highly-nuanced wine at a slightly warmer temperature. Drink 2024-2032- 93

2021 Frank The Tank Red Wine- The 2021 Frank The Tank is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller portions Merlot and Cabernet Franc. This comes off very soft and elegant on the mouth, with beautiful finesse and concentration from this warm vintage. A soft texture greets you as layers of chocolate covered dark currant and tobacco leaf meld well together in the glass. Enjoy now. Drink 2024-2029- 91

2021 Avennia ‘Valery’ Red Wine- The 2021 Avennia ‘Valery’ is a Right Bank inspired blend of 84% Merlot with the remainder Cabernet Franc from the Boushey and Champox Vineyards. On the nose this takes on beautiful violet rose petal tones that combine with freshly tilled loamy soils, cigar box, anise and shades of coffee grounds with dense dark fruits. The palate is soft and seamless as this deftly glides throughout the drinking experience. Full-bodied, with elegant tannins, this is a totally stunning Merlot that is one of the finest you will taste in Washington State. Drink 2023-2040- 96

2021 Avennia ‘Sestina’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Sestina’ is a gorgeous blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Needing about 30 minutes in the decanter to fully unwind, this yields beautiful black florals that mingle well with wet stone, Black Forest Cake and suggestions of huckleberry with garrigue notes. The palate is soft and refined with a silky texture and beautiful sense of elegance and weight. This is seamless throughout the drinking experience, loaded with black fruit flavors with dark chocolate shavings and suggestions of underbrush. Refined tannins frame this stunning heavyhitter of a Cabernet that is already drinking beautifully now at the three year mark. Savor this beauty now and over the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2024-2040- 96

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Here I am holding my birth year (1980) bottling of Chateau Coutet.

Chateau Coutet

April 4, 2024

Today we share one of the great dessert wine houses of the world. Chateau Coutet is one of two premier cru class estates in Barsac. Shortly after graduating from college I first sampled their 1998 Chateau Coutet — a wine that was simply magical considering the challenges of the vintage. This was an epiphany wine for me as I had never tasted anything quite like it.

Chateau Coutet is known for making great wines despite the challenges of the vintage — just like the 1998. They are led today by Aline Baly who is the third of her generation to join the family business as she serves as co-owner of Chateau Coutet. Her family has run the business since 1977. The quality of wines have become quite evident since Aline has joined the frame. Aline has an MBA from the Kellogg School of Management in Chicago and has brought her marketing and business talents to managing Coutet. She joined the business in 2018.

Chateau Coutet wines age incredibly well, as I have had several of these bottling back to the 1980s. There is a certain elegance to these wines that impresses me. Great vintages such as 2007 and 2011 show a wonderful degree of opulence as well alongside the bright minerality. If you have never tried any older Chateau Coutet, I implore you to seek these wines out.

I recently had the chance to revisit the 2014 Chateau Coutet (OB, 95) which is a beautiful wine now at ten years of age. This outstanding bottling will easily go for another ten to fifteen years. Learn more about this famed house at https://www.chateaucoutet.com/en/ and here is my review of the 2014 Chateau Coutet.

2014 Chateau Coutet Barsac- The 2014 Chateau Coutet is really starting to make its charge and is really quite an infant in the bottle now. This is only the second time that I have tasted this wine in the past five years. The nose is alluring with creme brulee, cardamom and roasted pineapple tones alongside shades of toasted hazelnuts. The palate is plush and soft with a generous mouthfeel. This is a slightly stronger showing since last tasted in 2020. While this might not be the most unctuous Coutet, the balance and finesse, alongside stony and salty minerals really makes this shine. Finishing long this really has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2024-2040- 95

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Here are the marvelous spring releases by Tablas Creek.

Tablas Creek

April 4, 2024

One of the great wine collaborations in North America, the fabled tale of Tablas Creek began when Jean-Pierre and François Perrin and Robert Haas purchased a former alfalfa farm that is set on limestone soils in the Adelaida Hills. From the beginning they focused on Rhône-style wines made organically. The first plantings took place in 1994 and the first Tablas Creek Vineyard wines produced in 1997. The winery has been an incredible success since that time, reaching worldwide acclaim particularly for their Rhone style red and white blends. I was first introduced to these wines in the early 2000s. I was amazed by their consistency and their very old-world style considering the region.

A few weeks back I had a great conversation with Jason Haas, Tablas Creek proprietor, talking about recent vintages as well as stellar wines from my recent Paso Robles Report. I had to chat about one of the outstanding wines of its kind, the 2022 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit Blanc de Tablas’ White Wine (OB, 96) which is the finest white wine that I tasted in my Paso Robles Report. Deeply concentrated and rich, from the extremely warm harvest weather, yet showing good underlying finesse and fabulous flavor range, this is a stunning wine that will sure to please any lover of Rhone-inspired white wines. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://tablascreek.com Here are the outstanding new wines by Tablas Creek. 

2023 Tablas Creek ‘Patelin de Tablas’ Rose The 2023 ‘Patelin de Tablas’ Rose is nearly all Grenache (70%) with the remainder 20% Mourvèdre and small parts Vermentino and Counoise. This is bright and beautiful Rose with a sleek sense of tension and soft mouthfeel. Pretty red cherry, pomegranate seed and rich melon flavors combine with hints of green apple on the palate. Enjoy in its vibrant, nervy youth. Drink 2024-2028- 91

2023 Tablas Creek ‘Dianthus’ Rose- Perpetually one of the finest Rose bottlings you will taste on the West Coast, this 2023 edition comes from this very cool vintage that saw harvest go into November. A blend of 51% Mourvèdre with 38% Grenache and small portions Cinsault and Counoise, this bottling saw extended skin contact before aging in stainless steel. Rich watermelon and wild mushroom tones combine with cantaloupe and shades of red rose water on the palate. Beautifully textured, with bright underlying acidity, this is a stunning example of new world Rose that will age gracefully for the next eight plus years to come. Drink 2024-2032- 94

2023 Tablas Creek Vermentino- One of the great new world examples of this varietal, this 2023 Vermintino was aged in stainless steel before bottling. Japanese pear and lemongrass notes combine with shades of walnut and salty minerals all offer serious complexity on the palate. Enjoy now in its vibrant youth. Drink 2024-2029- 92

2022 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit Blanc de Tablas’ White Wine- This combines 33% Roussanne, with 32% Grenache Blanc and smaller portions Picpoul, Clairette, Picardin, Boutboulene. This is the smallest amount of Roussanne ever blended into this wine, as this varietal was farmed at less than a ton an acre. The nose is hugely complex. Macadamia nut, honeydew melon, bright kiwi and shades of nectarine with stony minerals all mark the nose. The body is voluptuous despite being only 12.5% alcohol. Silky smooth throughout the drinking experience, showing no rough edges, and loads of mouth-watering acidity. Wait for the exceedingly long finish that lingers on the tongue. This will cellar so beautifully. Drink 2024-2039- 96

2022 Tablas Creek Grenache- The 2022 Tablas Creek Grenache comes from this warm vintage that was known for extreme heat at harvest. Super translucent in the glass, this delivers  rich strawberry and Bing cherry notes alongside dusty soils on the palate. Smooth and polished, this is already really nicely evolved stuff. Drink 2024-2030- 92

2022 Tablas Creek ‘Cotes de Tablas’ Red Wine- The 2022 Tablas Creek ‘Cotes de Tablas’ Red Wine is comprised of mainly Grenache and Syrah with the remainder small portions Counoise and Mourvèdre. This comes off soft, chewy and highly drinkable in its pretty core of red fruits with orange rind, cardamom and tobacco leaf with stony mineral flavors. Delicious and juicy, enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2024-2030- 91

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Here are the brilliant new wines by Big Table Farm.

Big Table Farm

April 4, 2024

Today we share the stellar spring release wines by Big Table Farm. A pillar of consistency in the Willamette Valley, Big Table Farm was founded by Clare Carver and Brian Marcy — two of the nicest people you will meet in the industry. Marcy has a longstanding history in the wine industry, formerly serving as winemaker for Neyers prior to moving north and settling in the Willamette Valley.These are wines that age brilliantly and are known for great texture and beautiful pure red and dark fruits, with loads of nuance. They have estate plantings that are going to be an exciting development for the future.

The new releases come from largely the 2022 vintage and they did a glorious job managing this warm vintage. I love the new 2022 Big Table Farm ‘Willamete Valley’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which is rich and chewy with beautiful verve and concentration. This is a killer value, as is the sensational 2022 Big Table Farm ‘The Wild Bee’ Chardonnay (OB, 93). Learn more about Big Table Farm at http://www.bigtablefarm.com/ Here are the fantastic new release wines by Big Table Farm.

2022 Big Table Farm ‘The Wild Bee’ Chardonnay- A fantastic new release at a highly reasonable price, the 2022 Big Table Farm ‘The Wild Bee’ Chardonnay was sourced from a range of vineyards that span the Willamette Valley. The nose shows toasted hazelnut tones alongside bright pear, buttered sourdough bread and green melon accents. Fresh and lively, with good tension and weight, with a lengthy finish, this is classy Oregon Chardonnay that is a serious value. Drink 2024-2032- 93

2022 Big Table Farm ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2022 ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir totally over-delivers for the price. This was 100% whole cluster fermented and was stored in mainly neutral oak for ten months before bottling. This is very pretty aroaticsally with red rose petals that parade with dusty soils, red currants and menthol notes. The palate is fresh and layered with a smooth texture and bright underlying sense of verve. A glorious core of red fruits greets you, with orange peel and Christmas spices on the palate. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2024-2032- 93

2022 Big Table Farm ‘Pelos-Sandberg Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The brilliant 2022 Big Table Farm ‘Pelos-Sandberg Vineyard’ Pinot Noir comes from this small vineyard set in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. White truffle shavings and Mandarin orange zest combine with pomegranate seed and shades of freshly tiled loamy soils all mark the nose. The palate is silky and refined with good elegance, length, weight and verve. Seamless throughout the drinking experience, this is every bit as good as the incredible 2021 bottling. Drink 2024-2035- 95

2021 Big Table Farm ‘The Funk Estate Vineyard’ Syrah- A stunning wine from this famed location in the Walla Walla Rocks District, managed by Rich Funk, the 2021 ‘The Funk Estate’ Syrah is Rocks Syrah personified. Once on the nose this exudes class with its smoldering stone profile on the nose, alongside compost, beef drippings and shades of wild blackberry. The palate is fresh and viscous, with good weight and a silky texture. Very stony and savory, this is a stunning example of ‘Funk Vineyard’ Syrah that will cellar well over the next eight plus years. But why wait? Drink 2024-2032- 96

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TOIL Oregon is crafting some of the state’s finest Pinot Noir.

TOIL Oregon

April 3, 2024

Today we share the beautiful wines of TOIL and winemaker Chris Figgins. For my palate of the finest producers of Rose wines in Oregon, Toil Oregon is the brainchild of famed Leonetti winemaker Chris Figgins who planted his vineyard in the Willamette Valley nearly a decade ago. Toil Oregon started with a production of 200 cases then in 2016 Chris planted his estate vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. His first wine fully from his estate vineyard was the 2019 Rose.

These wines are getting better and better. Chris’s Rose wine is serious and beautifully textured with fantastic flavor range. I adored the new 2023 Toil Oregon Rose (OB, 93) which is one of the top Rose wines that I have tasted in the past year. Do not miss out on the 2022 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir (OB, 95) which I think is the finest edition of this wine to date. It is dense, chewy and is very concentrated with beautiful florals and underlying finesse. Learn more about this great winery at toiloregon.com Here are the brilliant new wines by Toil Oregon. 

2023 TOIL Rose- The 100% Pinot Noir 2023 TOIL Rose was aged in stainless steel before bottling. A brilliant pink hue greets you, showing peat moss and bright guava fruit aromas alongside shades of pear and peach. The palate is bright and rich with copious minerals and a silky texture. The weight surprises you as this did not have any barrel contact. Rich red fruits parade with stony and earthy tones on the palate. A total stunner, don’t serve this too cold!  Drink 2024-2030- 93

2022 TOIL Chardonnay- The incredible 2022 TOIL Chardonnay was stored in only 17% new French oak before bottling. It is very fresh, fragrant and viscous now at the two year mark. On the nose this takes on layers of honeysuckle, baking spice drenched pear and sourdough bread. The palate is very soft and refined, as this effortlessly glides throughout the drinking experience. Salty and savory with plenty of melon and citrus fruit flavors, this is a deep, concentrated and generous effort that is best consumed on the warmer side. This is the finest TOIL Chardonnay yet produced. Drink 2024-2035- 95

2022 TOIL Pinot Noir- The 2022 TOIL Pinot Noir was stored in only 7% new French oak barrels before bottling. Winemaker Chris Figgins calls this the ‘miracle vintage’ due to the lack of heat and damp conditions during the growing season which led to a beautiful September and October. This may be the finest Pinot Noir that Chris Figgins has yet produced. The color is a Syrah-like black. Very dark fruit-driven and brooding in its wild blackberry and black raspberry flavor profile, the stony and earthy tones, as well as smooth texture, give this a sense of opulence. Totally stunning, enjoy this heavyhitter of a wine now and over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2024-2038- 95

2022 FIGGINS Riesling- A dry, outstanding Riesling from the Walla Walla Valley, the 2023 FIGGINS Riesling was sourced from the high elevation FIGGINS Estate Vineyard.  Weighing in at under 10 G/L (5.3), this delivers a fleshy texture with a fabulous sense of weight. White peach, star jasmine water and ripe cantaloupe flavors parade with copious minerals on the palate. A total joy to drink, don’t serve this too young to take in the beautiful sense of weight and verve. Drink 2024-2034- 94

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Great photo of Willamette Valley Vineyards Director of Winemaking Terry Culton.

Willamette Valley Vineyards

April 1, 2024

Today we share one of the oldest wineries in Oregon. Willamette Valley Vineyards founder, Jim Bernau, purchased the winery’s estate back in 1983 and  planted Pinot Noir (Pommard and Wadenswil clones), Chardonnay (Dijon and Espiguette) as well as Pinot Gris. Bernau took winemaking classes at UC Davis and finally started the winery full time in 1989. Willamette Valley Vineyards has grown considerably in the past 20 years, as they merged with Bill Fuller of Tualatin Vineyards (established in 1973), the O'Briens for Elton Vineyard (established in 1983) and Loeza Vineyard (planted in 2015). The winery now sources all of its Pinot Noir from its nearly 500 estate-grown vineyards.

I loved the new wines by Willamette Valley Vineyards as this has been some of the more consistent set of wines you find year after year. These wines are also easy to find in many wine shops and supermarkets. Look to the outstanding and rich new 2022 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Tualitin Estate’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which is beautifully textured stuff that is smooth on the mouth. Here are the new releases from Willamette Valley Vineyards and learn more at http://wvv.com

2020 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Domaine Brut Rose’ Sparkling Wine- A treat to consume now, the bright and beautiful ‘Domaine Brut Rose’ offers tart red fruits with orange peel and plenty of finesse on the palate. Smooth and refined in its mousse, enjoy now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2022 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Dry’ Gewurtztraminer- You don’t see too many Gewurtztraminer bottlings in the Willamette Valley, as this one comes from the Tualatin Estate Vineyard which was planted back in 1973 by Bill Fuller. This is smooth on the mouth, with the faintest kiss of sweetness. Salted yellow plum and green apple flavors mingle well with juicy peach and minerals on the palate. Surprisingly this is 14.4% alcohol yet doesn’t come off at all heavy. Drink 2024-2030- 91

2022 Wiliamette Valley Vineyards Auxerrois- This unusual varietal is also planted at the Tualatin Estate Vineyard, set on Larelwood soils. The wine has a good weight with a smooth texture, displaying juicy pear and Macadamia nut flavors that mingle well with white tea flavors on the palate. Nicely textured, this is great to savor now and over the next few years. Drink 2024-2030- 91

2022 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Dry’ Riesling- Nicely textured, the 2022 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Dry’ Riesling delivers petrol notes on the nose with juicy pear and peach alongside salty soils. The palate is soft and inviting in its mouthfeel and bright underlying acidity. Drink 2024-2030- 91

2022 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Tualatin Estate’ Chardonnay- The outstanding 2022 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Tualatin Estate’ Chardonnay comes from this site set on Laurelwood soils. Stored in 25% new French oak for ten months, this delivers brioche and baking spice notes on the palate, alongside a silky texture and bright sense of verve. Medium-bodied, enjoy this delicious effort now and over the next eight years. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2021 Metis Red Wine- All coming from the Walla Walla Valley, the 2021 Metis Red Wine is smooth on the mouth with layers of rich loganberry and red cherry fruit flavors with plenty of stony minerals. Medium boded with a silky texture, enjoy now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2024-2032- 92

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Todd Alexander has crafted an otherworldly range of wines for Force Majeure.

Force Majeure

April 1, 2024

This is no April fools! Todd Alexander has completely transformed Pacific Northwest wine. Coming from Bryant Family in Napa, Alexander crafts some of the finest range of wines that you will taste in the new world. Set on Red Mountain, the Force Majeure Vineyard is one of the most impressive sites for a dizzying array of wines from Viognier to Cabernet. Years back Alexander worked under vineyard manager David Abreu as well as consultant extraordinaire, Michel Rolland.Todd’s wines have amazing richness, depth and texture.

The new wines coming from the 2021 vintage are the finest that I have tasted so far from Force Majeure. Don’t miss out on the 2021 Force Majeure ‘Red Mountain’ Syrah (OB, 99) which flirts with perfection and is arguably the finest Red Mountain Syrah I have tasted. A perfect wine made from this warm vintage, the 2021 Force Majeure ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah (OB, 100) leaves no doubt of its perfection. The flavor range and texture are mesmerizing.  Equally otherworldly, the 2021 Force Majeure ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 100) is one of the great Cabernet wines I have tasted from this vintage. This beauty will easily cellar for another twenty years. Learn more about these great wines at  https://forcemajeurevineyards.com Here are the fantastic new wines by Force Majeure. 

2021 Force Majeure ‘Estate’ Grenache- This 2021 Grenache is sourced from a center portion of the vineyard, as the vines are head trained. Stored in concrete for 18 months, this shows beautiful red rose petals alongside pomegranate seed notes and concentrated loganberry notes. The palate is plush and loaded with richness with serious underlying verve. Stunning and savory, this is drinking so well even in its heady youth. Drink 2024-2038- 97

2021 Force Majeure ‘Parvata’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Parvata’ combines 46% Syrah with 39% Mourvèdre and the remainder Grenache. Stored in 15% new French oak, this is up there with the finest Parvata that I have tasted. Heady dark fruits combine with chocolate, garrigue, coffee grounds and smoked meats on the palate. Deep and rich, this is a stunning bottling that is already nicely evolved. Drink 2024-2038- 97

2021 Force Majeure ‘Red Mountain’ Syrah- This 2021 Red Mountain Syrah comes from 11 acre hillside set on fractured basalt that is tightly spaced. The wine was given 15% whole cluster fermentation and has a touch of Viognier blended in. The palate is soft and seamless with serious verve and concentration. Weightless and loaded with dense black and blue fruit flavors, with creme de violette, Turkish coffee accents, this is quite simply the finest Syrah you will find on Red Mountain. What a stunner! Drink 2024-2040- 99

2021 Force Majeure ‘Walla Walla Estate’ Syrah- The outstanding 2021 Force Majeure ‘Walla Walla Estate’ Syrah was stored for 18 months in used large format French oak before bottling. The nose comes off fragrant and very stony with wet gravel notes that combine with huckleberry, dried herbs and shades of milk chocolate. The palate is soft and seamless, with serious verve and a pillowy mouthfeel. Rich and layered, this is a gorgeous wine from this estate vineyard that is showing some serious promise. Drink 2024-2038- 98

2021 Force Majeure ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah- The really good 2021 Force Majeure ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah is a stunning wine that is showing marvelously now at the three year mark. Once on the nose this offers hoisin sauce alongside huckleberry and black currant notes with wet stone. The palate is soft and refined with serious richness and underlying tension. Utterly seamless, very stony and terroir-laden, this is the finest rendition of this bottling yet — perfection in a bottle. This will easily go for ten plus years, but why wait? Drink 2024-2036- 100

2021 Force Majeure ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Franc- This 2021 Cabernet Franc comes form their estate vineyard on Red Mountain as there were only 75 cases made of this wine. Beautiful red and dark florals combine with shades of garrigue, freshly tilled soils and shades of milk chocolate. The palate is refined and plush with serious texture, finesse and a polished texture. Truly refined and elegant, with loads of mouth-watering acidity, this is stunning wine that flirts with perfection. Drink 2024-2044- 99

2021 Force Majeure ‘Epinette’ Red Wine- The 2021 Force Majeure ‘Epinette’ Red Wine is a beautifully floral bottling that is showing marvelously now at the three year mark. The palate is plush with serious weight and texture. Deep and concentrated in its black forest cake and loganberry notes, with espresso grounds and graphite, this is a stunning blend of Cabernet Savingnon and Merlot that is going to live on for a really long time to come. Drink 2024-2045- 99

2021 Force Majeure ‘Walla Walla Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 Force Majeure ‘Walla Walla Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon has 5% Merlot blended in. Stored in 75% new French oak for 22 months, this offers wet stone and violets that combine with shades of loganberry and freshly tilled soils on the palate. Herbal and savory, this is the finest edition of this wine that I have tasted yet. Drink 2024-2040- 98

2021 Force Majeure ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 Force Majeure ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning wine that has otherworldly potential. This is a bit backwards right now but you can see the potential in this head-turning Cabernet. Loaded with dense blackberry, huckleberry sandalwood and sagebrush notes, with Turkish coffee, this is a massive, brooding Cabernet Sauvignon that will satisfy for decades to come. Give this another year or two in the bottle and this is going to blow your mind. Drink 2025-2050- 100

2021 Force Majeure Tempranillo- The 2021 Force Majeure Tempranillo comes from a single block on this Red Mountain estate vineyard. Black licorice and allspice dusted black plum combine with dark chocolate shavings and loamy soils on the nose. The palate is absolutely incredible with heady dark fruit flavors, alongside creme de violette, tar and damp soils. A hedonistic, highly pleasurable wine that was stored in all new French oak, this is one of the great new world wines of its kind. Only 49 cases made. Drink 2024-2040- 98

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Here is the beautiful 2017 Larrivet Haut-Brion.

Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion

March 28, 2024

Today we share one of the fantastic houses from Pessac-Leognan. This location sits gravel-based soils and won a particularly intriguing legal battle. It was back in 1929 when this house won a legal battle against First Growth Haut-Brion to keep its name, the only stipulation was that it be reversed so that Haut-Brion had less prominence, and so it was changed to Larrivet Haut-Brion. In fact, the addition of Brion refers to the local gravel, rather than the First Growth, which lies much further north. In 1987, the Gervoson family have been at the helm as the family also runs Bonne Maman jams. I have noticed that the wine quality at this house has increased particularly over the past two years. Larrivet Haut-Brion sits on the same gravelly ridge as Haut-Bailly and the 75 hectares of vines grow both red and white varieties. Unusually for the Left Bank, Merlot is mostly planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon planted there.

The wine I tasted comes from the 2017 vintage which is turning out to be a fabulous year, wedged in between two epic vintages of 2016 and 2018. The 2017 Larrivet Haut-Brion (OB, 94) is charming with a beautifully rich core of dark fruits that mingle well with plenty of nuance. Learn more about this house at https://www.ugcb.net/en/chateau-larrivet-haut-brion and here is my review of the 2017 Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion.

2017 Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion- The 2017 Larrivet Haut-Brion is a stunning example of this vintage in its good depth and flavor complexity. Wet rock and garrigue notes combine with dark currants and pencil lead on the nose. The palate is deep and concentrated with a brilliant core of boysenberry and cassis tones that mingle well with the stony accents. Medium to full-bodied and filled with tension, enjoy this beauty now and over the next fifteen plus years to come. Give this an hour in the decanter if consuming now. Drink 2024-2041- 94

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Federica Boffa is now the 5th generation at Pio Cesare. She has visited over 50 countries!

Pio Cesare

March 28, 2024

One of the great historic wineries in Piedmonte, Pio Cesare remarkably continues to work and operate in the same building that he bought in 1881. Now in its 5th generation, Federica Rosy Boffa runs her family's winery along with her cousin Cesare Benvenuto. Born in 1997—an iconic vintage in Piemonte— she is the only child of Pio Boffa. After completing her studies in Business Administration at the University of Turin, Federica decided to join the family business “full-time” and has since traveled regularly to more than 50 countries around the world. I recently met with her in Bellevue and tasted through her beautiful new Cru wines from the 2020 vintage.

She stated “It can be difficult working in the old town center and all of the other wineries have moved on the hillside. We have decided to remain because you can breathe a particular atmosphere and the winery was built on the ancient Roman walls as this town was built by the romans many years ago. There are many traces of the Romans in our winery. We are protecting the historical heritage of our winery and we are the only winery that is allowed to use the crest of the city of Alba on the label.” The historical significance of the brand is apparent, as Boffa notes “Of course we are very proud to carry the crest of the city on our labels but it is a huge responsibility when presenting the wines we are representing the city and need to be at our best to represent our city in a good way.”

Boffa too maintains a large responsibility, noting that as the brand’s 5th generation  I represent that together with my cousin. I am leading the winery after my father passed away three years ago. He was an important person for our family that marked a new moment for our wine and to be projected into the future. Thanks to him we started the process of acquiring vineyards and we moved from a negotiant to growing 150 acres on the hills of Barolo and Barbaresco. And thanks to him we started to make single vineyards. The three wines we taste today were created by him.”

Her father also was the first to start growing Chardonnay in the region “And today we are working on following his steps and trying to carry the tradition but also innovating a bit. We started many projects in the past few years including building a new portion of the winery. That will be dedicated for logistics and the bottling line and then we will dedicate to white wine. Now it is 25% of our production, with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc and Cortese.” They are now making two different Chardonnay bottlings, one that is barrel-fermented which is produced in a limited amount. Another wine is a Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc blend which is non-traditional.

The wines I tasted were from the 2020 vintage, as well as one poured from the restaurant, a 2018. The 2020 wines were all fabulous. I love the 2020 entry level Barolo (OB, 95) and Barbaresco (OB, 95) which are both very fleshy and ripe, with some fantastic aging potential. I can’t wait to see where these are in 10 plus years. A wine that quite simply flirts with perfection is the stunning 2020 Pio Cesare ‘Mosconi’ Barolo (OB, 99) which takes on a sensational range of flavors and aromatics. It is a total stunner of a wine. Learn more about this famed house at piocesare.com and here are my reviews of the new Pio Cesare wines.

2018 Pio Cesare Barolo- Coming rom a slightly cooler vintage, the 2018 Pio Cesare comes from five different villages in the region. Right areaway this shows beautiful red rose petals, tar and tobacco leaf with shades of exotic spices and pretty red fruits. The palate is soft and refined with elegant tannins and a smooth mouthfeel. Kumquat rind and red raspberry tones combine with tart cranberry and dusty soils on the palate. Drink 2024-2045- 95

2020 Pio Cesare Barolo- Generous and broad-shouldered, the 2020 Pio Cesare is going to cellar magically for twenty plus years. Once on the nose the classic rose petals and dusty soil tones offer beauty, alongside citrus zest and shades of bergamot. The palate is soft and refined with firm tannins that frame a gorgeous core of red fruits that mingle well with rocky soils and good length. Give this beauty an hour or two in the decanter if consuming now. Drink 2025-2045- 95

2020 Pio Cesare Barbaresco- A fabulous Barbaresco from this vintage, the 2020 shows immediately gratifying refined tannins that connect with blood orange zest, copious minerals and damp earth notes. With more air this becomes even more gratifying to consume with very pretty red fruits that parade with the bright sense of underlying tension. Finishing long with generous red fruits, this edition seems to be drinking even better than the 2019. Like the 2020 Barolo, give this some air if consuming in its heady youth. Drink 2025-2042- 95

2020 Pio Cesare ‘Il Bricco’ Barbaresco- This 2020 Barbaresco comes from one of the highest point in the Barbaresco region. This site has large diurnal shifts, as old Nebbiolo vines are planted at this steep site. Damp earth and wet volcanic stones combine with shades of cardamom laced red currants and pomegranate seed. The palate is very lithe and beautifully textured with fantastic weight and underlying finesse. A pure core of red fruits greet you on the palate, alongside pipe tobacco and leather notes. A total stunner, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next twenty years. Drink 2025-2050- 96

2020 Pio Cesare ‘Ornato’ Barolo- The stunning new 2020 ‘Ornato’ comes from this single vineyard in the southern portion of Barolo. This is a slightly warmer site that has long sun exposure, with south and southeastern exposure. Citrus rind, pomegranate seed and suggestions of red cherry candy all mark the nose alongside garrigue and stony undertones. The palate shows a silky mouthfeel with wonderful texture and weight. The palate is plush with refined tannins and serious underlying finesse. Finishing very long with pretty red fruits and wet stone, this is a masterful, wow-factor effort that is showing beautifully right now and will live on for decades to come. Drink 2025-2055- 98

2020 Pio Cesare ‘Mosconi’ Barolo- This wine was first made in 2015 and comes from a 10 hectare site planted also to Barbera and Chardonnay. The 2020 Barolo comes from Nebbiolo vines that date all the way back to the 1940s. Balsamic vinegar and black raspberry notes combine with flinty accents and worn leather on the nose. The palate is beautifully textured, with fantastic weight and incredible elegance. Kumquat zest and pretty red fruits with violets combine with suggestions of salty soils on the palate. A total head-turner, this is already crazy good to consume now. Drink 2025-2050- 99

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