Today we journey back in time to visit some great Syrahs that were produced two decades ago. For those less familiar with Tony Rynders, he has a longstanding history in the industry. He obtained his Master’s degree in Enology and Viticulture in 1992. Rynders then worked harvests in Napa (Acacia Winery), northern Italy (Friuli), South Australia (Petaluma Winery), and Tuscany (Col d’Orcia). He held permanent winemaking positions at Argyle Winery (two years) as assistant winemaker, Hogue Cellars (3 years) as red winemaker, and Domaine Serene Winery/Rockblock Cellars (10 years) as head winemaker. During his tenure at Domaine Serene, Rynders became one of the most highly acclaimed winemakers in America. Over 10 years, Rynders developed more than 25 different products for Domaine Serene.
On a warm summer evening in Oregon I sat across Tony, tasting his impressive lineup of Tendril wines. “Remember those Rockblock wines?” I muttered, to him, thinking of this now defunct winery that was created by Tony while he was head winemaker at Domaine Serene. “Of course, I was the one who came up with the idea,” Tony expanded. “And they’re seriously good now.” I was impressed but not surprised that the Syrahs would be holding so well after all that time. “Why don’t you check them out for yourself?” Tony proclaimed. That seemed like a good idea to me.
I can recall a seminal winery experience tasting these wines on a hot summer day at Domaine Serene. It was 2003 and I was one year out of college. My friend and I had ventured down south to the Willamette Valley. The sun beat down on the lower terrace at the winery which was relatively new and modern. I started with their refreshing Rose and moved onto their fantastic Pinots. I was shocked when I saw that they were pouring Rockblock Syrahs, but I had a strong feeling that they would be excellent. They truly were.
Flash forward more than fifteen years, sitting in Tony’s Tendril tasting room, I knew I needed to revisit these wines. While the project ended after Tony left Domaine Serene, their glory lives on. The wines still have a lot of life and will continue to shine for at least another five years. I was blown away with the 2002 Rockblock ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Syrah (WWB, 93) is a blockbuster wine that has wonderful toasty oak that wraps around a great core of dark fruit and non-fruit flavors. These are really exciting wines now with their tertiary tones and the ’01 and ’02 still have a good level of acidity. It was such a pleasure retesting these wines
2000 Rockblock ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2000 ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Syrah by Rockblock and superstar winemaker Tony Rynders was sourced from this less than heralded vintage in the Walla Walla Valley. On the nose this grapples with tertiary tones of white flowers, wild mushroom and suggestions of peat moss that collide with lighter flinty and oaky tones, alongside a good core of dark fruits that all take their shape in the glass. The palate is round and generous, delivering a top shelf mouthfeel and texture. Ripe blackberry cobbler and shades of black licorice meld with the lovely earthy and sagebrush undertones. The acidity of the wine holds everything together remarkably well considering this is now hitting the twenty year mark. No need to cellar this beautiful wine if you have any left. Drink 2020-2025- 91
2001 Rockblock ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2001 Rockblock ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Syrah is a different beast than the ’01. Dark and inky in the glass, this delivers less in terms of tertiary aromas and more ripe red and dark fruits that dance with milk chocolate and anise on this expressive nose. The palate is soft and velvety, with light tannins that line a deep core of red and dark fruits. Silky and soft on the mouth, the generous mouthfeel really gratifies. Fantastic now, I can see this providing drinking enjoyment for at least another fifth to ten years. But why wait? Drink 2020-2027- 93
2002 Rockblock ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Syrah- I have long admired wines from the 2002 vintage, one that was a near perfect growing season which ironically was the same vintage that I graduated from college. The 2002 shows a dark core, with very little rim variation once in the glass. The wine shows incredible poise and viscosity with a silky texture. Suggestions of blackberry pie, mocha, tar and black currants all connect with a bright tension and light salinity that dances through the mid-palate. The toasty oak marvelously wraps around the core of fruit and non-fruit. Fantastic now, the 2002 ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Syrah will cellar well for the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 93