Some vintages might not be flashy but still catch your eye. I am always reminded of the great Bordeaux wines made in 2001 — a vintage initially panned which followed the stunning 2000 year. The same is true with 2014, sandwiched between the downright awful 2013 vintage and the stunning 2015 vintage. 2017 weather-wise did not start out well in Bordeaux. Frost set in, negatively impacting a relatively warm winter. Spring saw some warmer temperatures leading to an early bud-break but a later April frost led to some crop damage. Then in May and June it warmed up for some hot weather while things later cooled off in July and August leading to some damp weather in September. This led to an early pick for many producers.
2017s have lower alcohols than the 2016s and 2018s which are known around the wine world to be deeply concentrated vintages. The 2017 wines are generally more classic, although they generally show plenty of stuffing and mid-palate depth and ripeness. For my palate 2017 stands clearly in front of 2013, 2012 and 2011 in terms of overall quality. I think the wines are a step behind 2016 and 2018 — but not by a large margin. The wines are beautiful in terms of florals and nuance. I love the 2018 Bordeaux wines but they are sometimes not as aromatically expressive as the 2017s. 2017 wines have great cellaring potential, only slightly behind those made in ’16 and ’18.
In 2017 the top houses made great wines. Both the 2017 Chateau Latour (OB, 99) and the 2017 Mouton-Rothschild (OB, 99) flirt with perfection for different reasons. They are stunning wines that are well-priced compared to other vintages. I found a few wines where I thought that the house should have performed a bit better. I was amazed by the 2017 Chateau Palmer (OB, 97) and the 2017 Cos d’Estournel (OB, 97) which were slight steps behind the first growths, but absolutely not far removed. Certainly these do not embody the power of ’18 but there is really good depth of flavor and beautiful finesse. 2017s are elegant wines right now that are slowly coming into their own. While 2017 remains in the shadows of 2016 and ’18, there are many wines from this vintage that should not be overlooked. Here are my reviews of the brilliant left bank wines from 2017.
2017 Chateau Latour- A stunning wine from this vintage, the 2017 Chateau Latour is one of the great wines made this year. Needing more than a five hour decant, this is an elegant Latour, much more reminiscent of the 2010 than the 2009. The gorgeous red florals greet you immediately alongside wet gravel and rich dark fruits. The palate yields red bell pepper and creme de cassis notes that combine with shades of pencil lead as well as huckleberry compote. Impeccably balanced and still somewhat backwards, with refined tannins, give this a few more years of cellaring before enjoying. Drink 2026-2056- 99
2017 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild- A total knockout from the vintage, the 2017 Chateau Mouton-Rothcshild flirts with perfection, needing more than five hours in the decanter to get going. Once aroused this offers violets and scorched earth alongside red bell pepper, anise and creme de cassis notes. The palate is soft and seamless with a glorious texture and great sense of underlying tension. Full-bodied and rich, enjoy now and over the next twenty five plus years. Drink 2025-2050- 99
2017 Chateau Palmer- A glorious wine, the 2017 Chateau Palmer is a heavyhitter that has a long way to go in the cellar. Dense creme de violette, anise, dark chocolate shavings and dark cherry flavors combine with silky tannins and copious stony minerals. This is seamless throughout the drinking experience. Enjoy now and over the next twenty plus years. Drink 2024-2044- 97
2017 Chateau Cos d’ Estournel- The remarkable 2017 Cos d’ Estournel is a stunning combination of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Merlot with a dash of both Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Stored in 60% new French oak right away this allures with beautiful violet rose petals, Turkish coffee, and Cuban cigar with wet gravel on the nose alongside a pretty core of black fruits. Full-bodied and beautifully balanced, enjoy this seamless bottling now and over the next twenty years to come. Drink 2024-2044- 97
2017 Chateau Pontet-Canet- The 2017 Pontet-Canet is a world-class wine that is seamless, well-balanced and silky on the mouth. A blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, with smaller parts Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this shows off mocha, tar, allspice dusted blackberry and dark currants all combine on the palate, with espresso grounds and wet gravel notes. Medium to full-bodied, enjoy this outstanding wine now and over the next twenty years. Drink 2024-2044- 96
2017 Chateau Leoville-Barton- The 2017 Leoville-Barton is a silky and delicious new bottling that is showing really well at the seven year mark. Medium-bodied and soft, with silky tannins, this shows off blackberry compote and Arabica bean and dark chocolate shavings. Generous and very fresh, enjoy this refined bottling now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2024-2040- 95
2017 Chateau Giscours- The 2017 Giscours combines 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. This rendition is a delicious wine that is showing brilliantly now. Cassis, tar, mocha and pencil shavings all mark the nose. The palate is plush with good depth and concentration. Alluring with its exotic spice notes, enjoy now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2024-2040- 95
2017 Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion- The 2017 Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion is a gorgeous combination of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Right away this delivers sagebrush and red bell pepper on the nose alongside graphite and shades of boysenberry compote. The palate is plush and deeply concentrated with seriously good weight and tension. Refined tannins line this beautiful wine that is showing brilliantly now. Drink 2024-2040- 94
2017 Chateau Phelan Segur- Very heady and dense in the glass, the 2017 Phelan-Segur really needs a three hour decant if consumed now. Pencil lead and anise mingle well with creme de cassis notes on the nose. The palate is medium to full-bodied and loaded with tension, gravel soils and dense dark fruits. Texturally very beautiful now, and still quite primary, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 94
2017 Chateau Rauzan-Segla- This 2017 Rauzan-Segla is a great showing in this vintage. Fresh herbs and green bell pepper mark the nose alongside coffee grounds and shades of black licorice. The palate is medium-bodied and fresh, with beautiful black florals and a great core of black fruits, nestled alongside beautiful freshness producing mouth-watering acidity. Drink 2024-2040- 94
2017 Domaine de Chevalier- An inky core, the 2017 Domaine de Chevalier is round and generous on the mouth with a silky mouthfeel and refined tannins. Walnut and black currants combine with espresso grounds and shades of cassis on the palate. Drink 2024-2040- 94