Lingua Franca

As we roll on in Oregon Wine Month we bring you a wonderful Oregon wine project many years in the making. Lingua Franca begins with their estate vineyard, located between the Lone Star, Jerusalem Hills and Seven Springs vineyards. It is a truly sensational site. Larry Stone, MS, previously managed wine portfolios for Francis Ford Coppola as well as Augustin Huneeus before founding Lingua Franca with David Honig. After rigorous negotiations, the land for Lingua Franca was finally purchased in late 2012.

In late 2014, Dominique Lafon of Evening Land Fame indicated that he would be interested in collaborating on the project and the team began work together in February of 2015. At time that Lafon protégé, Thomas Savre, also came aboard as he had a wealth experience in some of the most illustrious wineries in Burgundy. Thomas served as assistant winemaker at Evening Land before being promoted as winemaker for Lingua Franca. He has just a spectacular new lineup of wines from the more restrained 2017 vintage. In comparison to his 2016 wines, these 2017s lean slightly towards elegance — and are every bit as good as the last years releases. One of the great Oregon Chardonnays that I have tried in the past yeear, the 2017 Lingua Franca ‘Bunker Hill’ Chardonnay (WWB, 94) has incredible range and brightness. This is sure to satisfy any lover of Oregon Chardonnay. His 2017 Lingua Franca ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 94) is just as good, showing incredible red fruit and citrus tones, with earthy nuances rounding out this sensational new wine. Learn more about Lingua Franca at https://www.linguafranca.wine Here are the beautiful new releases by Lingua Franca.

2017 Lingua Franca ‘Avni’ Chardonnay- The 2017 ‘Avni’ Chardonnay opens with bright lemon zest with kiwi and melon tones that connect with the wet stone character on then nose. The palate reveals good freshness and intensity with gobs of lip-smacking acidity. Bright citrus and orchard fruits parade with minerals on the palate. Delicious now, this will evolve well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2017 Lingua Franca ‘Bunker Hill’ Chardonnay- The Bunker Hill Vineyard was planted in 1995 and is located in the Salem Hills as it has a very strong maritime influence from strong Pacific Ocean winds that move winds through the Van Duzer corridor. The 2017 Lingua Franca ‘Bunker Hill’ Chardonnay is a terrific new release wine by this talented winemaking team. The nose evokes toasty brioche with wild mushroom and green apple that all combine in the glass. The palate unveils a silky texture and a bright minerality. Kumquat, green papaya and shades of white truffle with earthy undertones round out this outstanding flavor range. This finishes exceedingly long with lemon cream and minerals. Highly Burgundian and downright thrilling now, this highly nuanced Chardonnay will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2032- 94

2017 Lingua Franca ‘Avni’ Pinot Noir-The ‘Avni’ Pinot Noir by Lingua Franca opens with toasty oak that wraps around bright red fruits with earthy and citrus rind tones, all melding together in the glass. The palate has beautiful balance, showing a smooth texture and a bright acidity. Intense red fruits collide with minerals and hints of blood orange zest with peat moss on the palate. The long, earthy and red fruit-driven finish lingers. While marvelous in its youth, this has at least a decade ahead of it. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2017 Lingua Franca ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir by Lingua Franca is an exceedingly good new wine. The nose is highly gratifying with peat moss and white truffle shavings that combine with cran-pomegranate and red cherry candy on the seductive nose. The palate has a seamless quality that shines as red and dark fruits dance with the earthy and citrus rind tones. A stunning new wine, this will cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 94

Auction of Washington Wines Presents Wine & Music Festival on Red Mountain

Auction of Washington Wines Presents Wine & Music Festival

Date: Saturday, June 1, 2019

Time: 6:00pm – 9:00pm

Friends, please join me as well as more than 20 different wineries for the Auction of Washington Wines Wine & Music Festival at Col Solare on Saturday June 1st benefitting Seattle Children’s Hospital and Washington State University’s Enology and Viticulture program. 
Join the likes of Col Solare, Fidelitas, Upchurch Vineyard and DeLille Cellars and many more. This will be a spectacular tasting event you won’t want to miss, with catering from Porter’s Real Barbecue, and Fat Olives Restaurant & Catering. 
Dress is ‘wine country casual! Sun dress or summer pants for gals. Cargo shorts and button up for guys.
For more info check out https://auctionofwawines.org/events/wine-jazz-festival/
Looking forward to seeing you all at this spectacular event on Red Mountain

Stoller Estate

Happy Memorial Day to you all. As we continue our march in Oregon Wine Month, we bring you one of the stalwart wineries of the Willamette Valley. A brilliant businessman, Stoller founder, Bill Stoller, has a degree in business and economics from Pacific University, as well as an MBA from Portland State University. In 1983, Bill co-founded Express Employment Professionals, currently the largest privately-held staffing company in the world, with more than 800 offices in three countries. Additionally, in 2001, he founded Xenium, a human resources outsource company. This business success has enabled Bill to pursue his passion of wine and to contribute to his community. Bill's most prominent civic commitment was to his alma mater, as the former chair of the Pacific University Board of Trustees.

Bill acquired his Willamette Valley family property from his cousin in 1993, and saw the potential with the terroir in place. He planted 10 acres each of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in 1995 and the winery now spans vineyard is the largest contiguous vineyard in Oregon's Dundee Hills. The property spans 400 acres, with 225 acres focused on growing vines at elevations ranging from 220 to 640 feet. Ten varietals are planted in this vineyard, including Viognier, Pinot Meunier and even Aligote. 

The new releases by Stoller were beautiful across the board. Look to their brilliant new 2018 Stoller Rose (WWB, 90) which has a wonderful mouthfeel and is crafted in the refreshing style. Even better was the 2017 Stoller Pinot Noir (WWB, 91) which shows a great sense of freshness and wonderful red and dark fruit flavors. Learn more about this outstanding Oregon winery at https://www.stollerfamilyestate.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Stoller. 

2018 Stoller Rose- Sourced from a host of Willamette Valley Vineyards, the 2018 Stoller Rose opens with very pretty aromatics of red rose petals, guava and cran-cherry, with lighter earthy undertones that all build on the nose. The palate has wonderful freshness and a lithe minerality. Light red fruits dance with citrus rind and minerals on the palate. Highly refreshing, this really needs a hot summer day, as this excellent new wine would pair marvelously with a host of foods, most notably fresh oysters. Drink 2019-2023- 90

2018 Stoller Chardonnay- The 2018 Stoller Chardonnay awakens to a bouquet of white peach, kiwi and shades of toasted hazelnut with vanilla cream accents that round out the nose. The silky texture accents the ripe orchard fruits and vanilla cream flavors that build on the palate. While this is marvelous in its youth, this has both the verve and richness to cellar well for another ten years. Drink 2019-2026- 91

2017 Stoller Pinot Noir- The 2017 Stoller Pinot Noir is another terrific effort from this storied estate. Cran-cherry cola and shades of peat moss enter the fray on the nose. The palate shows a good combination of richness and minerality, delivering red and dark fruits that dance with minerals and citrus rind undertones. This fantastic new wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 91

Baer Winery ‘Ursa’ Vertical Tasting

Boutique wineries sometimes fool me. In fairness, I’ve had many new world boutique wineries that seem to underwhelm me, while others truly shine. Baer is one of those limited production wineries that always seems to impress me, vintage after vintage. I was first turned onto this winery with their 2006 release of their ‘Ursa’ which was prior to starting WWB. This wine had incredible red fruit character, silky tannins and was downright delicious once in the glass. I bought a case of this wine and enjoyed it over several years with my friends. 

Following the tragic passing of Lance Baer, Erica Orr took the helm and helped create what I’ve found to be now one of the most consistent red wine lineups in Washington. Erica even hit a home run in the challenging 2015 vintage. I have seen her winemaking style evolve over the past decade, as her wines are less heavily tannic now and gear towards elegance but maintaining good ripeness. 

Last night I sat down with Baer winemaker Erica Orr and owner Lisa Baer for what was a very special tasting of their ‘Ursa’ Red Wine. The vertical tasting encompassed vintages ’02, ’06, ’10, ’12 and ’15. All of the wines showed marvelously. One of the highlights of the tasting was actually seeing how well the ’02 and ’06 showed considering their age. I think that the 2002 Baer ‘Ursa’ Red Wine (WWB, 93) still has several years left, as its beautiful red fruit tones were singing last night. The best wine that I tried was the stunning 2012 Baer ‘Ursa’ Red Wine (WWB, 94) which had incredible balance, as you could see each varietal moving like a fine running motor. This tasting also has shown how the Stillwater Creek Vineyard has evolved from the high toned red fruits in the 2002 vintage to the deep, dark fruits from the 2015 vintage. This is truly a very special vineyard that remains somewhat under the radar.  Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.baerwinery.com/WordPress/ Here are my reviews from a glorious Baer ‘Ursa’ Red Wine vertical tasting on May 23rd, 2019.

2015 Baer ‘Ursa’ Red Wine- The 2015 ‘Ursa’ is a blend of 38% Merlot with 38% Cabernet Franc and 22% Cabernet with just a touch of Malbec (2%). This was aged in 44% new French oak for 20 months prior to bottling. This has considerably more cabernet Sauvignon than most vintages as winemaker Erica Orr felt that the Cabernet Sauvignon was particularly excellent this vintage. The texture here is really beautiful, giving a good sense of opulence. You can see each working part here with three Bordeaux varietals wonderfully coming together with dark fruits and chocolate flavors most dominant. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2012 Baer ‘Ursa’ Red Wine- The 2012 ‘Ursa’ is a fabulous blend of 40% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc with 12% Malbec and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon all sourced from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard. The wine was aged in 53% new French oak for 20 months prior to bottling. This shows off a deep core, unveiling very pretty red fruits with red rose petals and shades of tar and black currant that all mingle in the glass. The texture is extremely polished as the wine takes on a seductive edge. Impeccably balanced, this shows off gorgeous milk chocolate covered red cherry, sagebrush, and black tea with red raspberry cordial flavors. The long finish further accentuates this simply beautiful wine. While drinking marvelously now, this will continue to evolve well for at least another ten years. Drink 2019-2029- 94

2010 Baer ‘Ursa’ Red Wine- Coming from a cooler vintage in Washington State, the 2010 ‘Ursa’ has 42% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Franc, 10% Malbec and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. This was aged in 73% new French oak for 20 months prior to bottling. The nose is quite powerful with toasty oak that mingles with black tea, milk chocolate and shades of sagebrush and red bell pepper. This is extremely elegant with good ripeness considering the coolness of the vintage with thyme and sagebrush accents connecting with the red and dark fruits. This shows good richness and freshness with a left bank Bordelaise feel and a sight salinity towards the back end. While this is peaking now, this will cellar well over the next five years. Drink 2019-2024- 92

2006 Baer ‘Ursa’ Red Wine- The 2006 ‘Ursa’ Red Wine is a silky blend of 50% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot. This was the last year that they only made this red wine in their lineup. The wine was aged in 95% new French oak for 20 months prior to bottling. The nose shows toasty oak that wraps around roasted dates, sweet pipe tobacco, and dark fruits. The palate shows good freshness with a strong salinity. Dark fruits mingle with espresso bean and rose water on the palate. The long, mineral and dusty earth-driven finish lingers. Drink 2019-2024- 92

2002 Baer ‘Ursa’ Red Wine-  The 2002 vintage in Washington was absolutely legendary, with almost perfect growing conditions. The ‘Ursa’ is a blend of 44% Merlot with 31% Cabernet Franc and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose is very plush showing roasted dark fruits with a nice savory edge and a touch of Turkish coffee. The wine is remarkably fresh on the mid-palate with wonderful red fruits that run through a nice sense of salinity. Drink 2019-2024- 93

2008 Baer ‘Maia’ Cabernet Franc- This wine is 100% Cabernet Franc sourced from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard. The wine opens with an alluring nose of rose water, green bell pepper and licorice that all combine marvelously in the glass. The wine is strangely still tannic, showing quite a lot of power. Coffee grounds, black tea, and rich dark fruits. This is drinking marvelously right now but still has a long way to go. Drink 2019-2029- 93

Seastar Restaurant & Raw Bar

One of the fantastic spots in the Seattle area for fresh seafood, Seastar Restaurant is the brainchild of both Chef John Howie and Erik Liedholm, who created this thriving restaurant more than fifteen years ago. Executive Chef John Howie, formerly of Palisade, founded this restaurant back in 2002. John combined with Erik Liedholm, who has curated an incredible array of wines from French standouts Dageuneau and Chave to Pacific Northwest favorites. The wine program is very special and even has their own Champagne, the NV ‘Cuvee John Howie’ produced by Nominé-Renard and blended by Erik each year. The current blend is largely equal parts Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier with 2012 being the anchor vintage in the blend. We began our meal with their ‘Cuvee John Howie’ which showed absolutely marvelously and had really good salinity and mid-palate richness.

Seastar’s menu is divided into three sections with the raw bar, the tastes menu and then the main courses. They offer a omakase which is a chefs selection of sushi, sashimi and nigiri.

The wine list has a plethora of great northwest wines including thoughtful Chardonnay choices out of Oregon by Lingua Franca, Roserock and Gran Moraine as well as brilliant California Chardonnay wines from Brewer- Clifton and Rochioli as well as an extensive collection of one of my all-time favorites, Kongsgaard. Pricing is very reasonable for many of the Oregon white wines.  Other great white wine choices out of Washington include the fantastic 2016 ‘Oliane’ by Avennia and the great new 2017 Viognier by Mark Ryan.

We chose to go outside the box and dive into their extensive collection of Austrian Rieslings. Nikolaihof is one of the great Gruner Veltliner producers of the world and the 2010 ‘Gelber Muskateller’ by Nikolaihof (WWB, 94) was a downright stunning showing off incredible viscosity, texture and verve. This wine is right in its sweet spot at nine years of age. 

To start we began wit the scallop ceviche which was prepared with mango, kiwi as well as chile, lime and cilantro. The dish has was very fresh and had a wonderful texture as the topping provided good sweetness. 

Even better was the tuna crudo, which was delightful with sweet onion and creamy avocado. The tuna crudo had tons of flavor with wonderful cirrus oil as the oil adds remarkably to the texture and the Nikolaihof was a perfect foil with its light flinty and pretty star jasmine tones that combined with the brightness of the dish. 

In between courses we remarked about how good the service was here and how well-orchestrated the food and wine service presented itself, like a fine running motor. Water glasses were constantly refilled and each course was served with perfect timing

The thin cut truffle fries were nothing short of insanely good — truly some of the best fries in the entire Seattle area. They were all perfectly cooked and wonderfully crisp. Our next course was one of their signature dishes, the hot and sour soup which had perfectly cooked fresh shrimp as the dish came off similarly to a great Tom Yum. Each succulent shrimp was perfectly sized for your bite. 

We were impressed with our next dish, their blue cheese salad which had crisp pears on top delivering a nice crunch while the salad dressing was deliciously creamy. I deplore salads being under-dressed but this salad had perfect amount of dressing.

For a splurge we ordered the well-priced NV Krug ‘Grand Cuvee Edn 166’ Champagne (WWB, 97) which was absolutely singing with our entrees. The wine is so impeccably balanced with an insanely complex nose and a long, lemon-oil and mineral driven finish that lingers exceedingly long. The bubbles were highly refined to this great Champagne as lower toned biscuit and peat moss tones combined with the wonderful high tones of the wine.

Delightfully playful Mexican style preparation of Halibut.

I ordered a simple but classic preparation of grilled fresh sockeye salmon which came perfectly cooked and more on the rare side which I love. Soft and melt in your mouth delicious, this paired swimmingly with the richness of the Krug. We were also impressed with their Halibut preparation that was served Mexican style with a verde sauce and a crab and shrimp tamale. The creativity of this dish was absolutely killer and the heat of the dish matched marvelously with the Krug. As we finished our meal with our glass of Krug we toasted to a remarkable food and wine experience at Seastar Restaurant. 

Dom Pérignon

Today we bring you one of the famed Champagne houses of the world and truly one of my personal favorite wines, Dom Pérignon. It takes many wine lovers by surprise that Dom Pérignon was a 18th century French Benedictine monk who is credited with inventing Champagne. What many might not know is that the Champagne region was mostly known for still wine until the mid-19th century when most houses began producing sparkling wine. Launched in 1936 by leading champagne house Moët & Chandon, Dom Pérignon was the first cuvée de prestige created for consumers. While most of the world including France in the midst of the Great Depression, this was a strange time to start a prestigious brand of a Champagne. But as both Napoleon and Winston Churchill have previously noted, Champagne is not only for good times but it is used to console as well.

I have heard that the first Dom Pérignon made from the 1921 vintage was simply amazing. I will look forward to trying this insanely good wine someday. Following in the footsteps of Dom Perignon, other producers began producing their cuvée de prestige, including Roederer, starting their ‘Cristal’ line in 1945 which was followed by Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne in 1952 and Laurent-Perrier’s Grand Siècle in 1959. For me, Dom Pérignon is one of the finest wines of the world, as I am simply mesmerized that they can produce such an incredible product given the large case production. Year after year Dom Pérignon produces one of the finest Champagnes available on the retail market. Dom Pérignon is made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes that are are grown in vineyards that received grand cru status. Each of these special occasion Champagnes showcase their vintage. I recently had the chance to revisit several vintages of Dom Pérignon and was enchanted by each release. The 2009 Dom Pérignon Champagne (WWB, 95) is exceedingly bright and youthful at this stage in its development. It is only an infant now but will have an exceedingly long life in the cellar. Quite more evolved but every bit as good, the 2006 Dom Pérignon Champagne (WWB, 96) shows wonderful biscuit and musty around as this stage in its development. The weight of this wine is seriously good right now. I was absolutely blown away with the 1996 Dom Pérignon Champagne (WWB, 98) as well as the 1998 Dom Pérignon Champagne (WWB, 97). These majestic bottling are incredible now at more than twenty years of age and still have an exceedingly long life left. Learn more about Dom Pérignon Champagne at http://www.domperignon.com/ Here we feature my reviews of previous three releases of Moët & Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’ as well as some special older vintages enjoyed in the past month.

1996 Moët & Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’ Champagne- The 1996 Dom Pérignon is a revelation at now twenty three years of age. On the nose this takes on some spectacular range from Challah bread tones to lemon zest as well as Pink Lady apple and candied ginger. Once on the attack this shows formidable weight and tension, while this seamless wine effortlessly dances across the mid-palate. Ripe Japanese pear, brioche, lemon zest and wild mushroom flavors collide with the strong salinity and minerality. A true heavyhitter, this wine has many rounds left to fight, but is simply intoxicating at this stage in its development. Drink 2019-2040- 98

1998 Moët & Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’ Champagne- I absolutely adore the 1998 Dom Pérignon at this stage in development, as this was a marvelous surprise to see how balanced and seductive this wine is now. Showing a slightly lower viscosity than the ’96, the 1998 Dom Pérignon greets you with a wonderfully nutty and musty bouquet, followed by great tension and linear progression on the mid-palate. The wonderful sense of freshness complements the nutty, wild mushroom, peat moss and orchard fruit flavors. This has a wonderful saline streak that runs through the exceedingly long finish. While marvelous now, this has at least fifteen years left. Drink 2019-2035- 97

2006 Moët & Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’ Champagne- Similar to 2005, 2006 had perfect weather at harvest, following an excellent growing season. The production team at Moët & Chandon continue to produce some of the best Champagne in the world. This new bottling of Dom Pérignon is no exception. This wine begins with aromas of brioche, porcini mushroom, gala apple and banana. This leads to flavors of red delicious apple, toasted macadamia nut, Meyer lemon rind, and Japanese pear. This is absolutely ethereal as the mousse is silky and incredibly textured. The earthy components to this blending beautifully complement the citrus fruit. An absolutely stunning Champagne that is a very small step ahead of the brilliant 2005. Drink 2019-2040- 96

2008 Moët & Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’ Champagne- The 2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne is a stunning new wine that showcases this outstanding vintage. Released after the ’09 edition, the 2008 is the last vintage releases by cave de chef Vincent Chaperon before he retired at the end of 2018. What was a very cool vintage, 2008 saw perfect conditions at harvest which led to very ripe berries. At the present the ripeness is quite evident on the nose with bright marigold flowers with kumquat and shades of nectarine rind alongside the lemon infused brioche accents that all build in the glass. The palate is round, yet tightly wound, delivering a nice sense of decadence. Bright Pink Lady apple, lemon zest and Challah bread all combine brilliantly with a good sense of salinity on the palate. While remarkable in its youth, this really needs a year or two of bottle age to fully come together. Drink 2020-2040- 97

2009 Moët & Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’ Champagne- The 2009 Dom Pérignon is a simply fabulous effort from a challenging vintage in Champagne. The musty and earthy aromatics grab you straight away followed by wild mushrooms, brioche, poached pear and toasted hazelnut aromatics that impress. Incredibly balanced and with remarkable finesse, this showcases flavors of lemon zest, baked apple and marzipan with biscuit. Today this is just a touch youthful, needing some additional time to develop. Nonetheless this is a simply gorgeous Champagne with marvelous cellaring potential. Try to hold off on this stunner for at least two years. Disgorged in June 2016. Drink 2019-2040- 95

Penfolds

An illustrious South Australia house, deeply rooted in tradition, Penfolds is one of the iconic producers of Shiraz in the world. Initially founded as a fortified wine house in 1844, Penfolds was founded by Christopher and Mary Penfold who arrived to Australia from Sussex, England and founded the 500 acre Penfolds estate in Adelaide. Upon Christopher’s tragic death, Mary began initial blending wines that were two to three years of age, moving away from fortified wines. For many years Penfolds remained the largest wine producer in South Australia. Then in the 1940s famed Penfolds winemaker Max Shubert crafted their first iconic ‘Grange Hermitage’ wine which was later simply named ‘Grange.’ In 1960s the company introduced a series of red wines: Bin 389, Bin 707, Bin 28 and Bin 128, that became the highlights of the Penfolds brand.

Visiting this famed lineup today, I was overwhelmed with the overall quality of the wines. One of the great wines that I tried was the 2016 Penfolds ‘Bin 389’ Cabernet-Shiraz (WWB, 93) which showed a wonderful mouthfeel and was already quite evolved. This wine was a serious value. The 2016 Penfolds ‘St. Henri’ Shiraz (WWB, 95) was also showing signs of beautiful evolution, with copious dark fruits and an incredible texture. What probably impressed most in this tasting was the iconic 2016 Penfolds ‘Bin 707’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 97) which showed insanely good weight and a deep core. This fabulous effort is one for the cellar. Even better, although considerably more expensive, the 2014 Penfolds ‘Grange’ Shiraz (WWB, 98) has just a tiny portion of Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. This Shiraz is silky, sexy and a downright treat to savor. Learn more about this iconic Australian producer at penfolds.com Here are the amazing new wines by Penfolds.

2018 Penfolds ‘Bin 51 Eden Valley’ Riesling- This takes on petrol, green apple and green papaya aromas. The freshness and verve to this dry Riesling is exceedingly good. Loaded with mouth-watering acidity, the Riesling shows wonderful citrus and pitted fruit flavors. Fresh and light on its feet, enjoy this in the short-term. Drink 2019-2022- 91

2017 Penfolds ‘Max’s’ Chardonnay- Sourced from the Adelaide Hills, this wine shows toasty brioche with butterscotch and Pink Lady apple aromatics that build in the glass. On the palate this shows nice acidity and weight, as citrus rind, melon and ripe apple flavors connect wit the freshness. This is seriously good for the price. Drink 2019-2022- 90

2017 Penfolds ‘Bin 311’ Chardonnay-Sourced from Tumbarumba, he 2017 ‘Bin 311’ Chardonnay shows lemon cream and kumquat with hints of wild mushroom on the nose. Highly refreshing and satisfying, this shows a beautiful astringency. White peach, lemon cream and green apple flavors all combine nicely in the glass. This takes on a very Burgundian feel with its freshness and intensity. Drink 2019-2024- 91

2016 Penfolds ‘Max’s’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 ‘Max’s’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows off an inky core. The wine shows a good degree of stewed dark fruit on the nose with coffee accents. The palate is jammy and rich but shows good acidity. Forward and rich, blackberry and cherry pie flavors with blueberry compote all combine nicely. This is extremely well-done for an entry level Shiraz. Drink 2019-2022- 90

2016 Penfolds ‘Bin 28 Kalimna’ Shiraz- The ‘Kalimna’ was first made by Penfolds in 1959 and is sourced from a warm South Australia site. This excellent value Shiraz takes on toasty oak on the nose with black tea, blackberry pie and coffee grounds. The mouthfeel is plush as the wine shows nice citrus tones that accompany copious dark fruits and coffee grounds. This is delicious now but will continue to cellar well for another decade Drink 2019-2028- 91

2016 Penfolds ‘Bin 389’ Cabernet Shiraz- The ‘Bin 389’ by Penfolds is comprised of near equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. The nose takes on wonderful blue fruit aromas with black tea and Asian spice. The mouthfeel and texture to this wine is wonderfully plush, delivering dark berry, roasted fig and coffee ground flavors. Showing good acidity and briightness, this wine is gorgeous in its youth but will cellar well for the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2030- 93

2016 Penfolds ‘Bin 407’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Bin 407’ Cabernet Sauvignon was first made in 1990. The wine is sourced from a host of AVAs including Coonawarra, McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Wrattonbully and Padthaway. The Cabernet Sauvignon was aged for 12 months in French oak prior to bottling. The nose is deliciously seductive, with blackberry cobbler, brandy soaked black cherry and cigar ash notes. There is very good freshness to this rich wine that reveals a wonderfully soft mouthfeel. The acidity combines with rich dark fruits nicely. A long-ager, this will cellar well for the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2019-2030- 92

2015 Penfolds ‘St. Henri’ Shiraz- The ‘St. Henri’ Shiraz was aged in extremely large vats prior to bottling. They have elected to blend in a tiny portion of Cabernet Sauvignon to this Shiraz. The wine starts off with deep and wonderfully perfumed aromatics reminiscent of blueberry compote, black tea, mocha, and anise. The wine takes on a seamless texture. Loganberry preserves, blueberry compote, mocha and crushed mint flavors all wonderfully combine. Decadent and layered, this is a stunning wine by Penfolds that shows both wonderful weight and tension. Enjoy this incredible Shiraz over the next two decades. Drink 2019-2035- 95

2016 Penfolds ‘RWT’ Shiraz- The “RWT’ or ‘Red Winemaking Trial’ was named after a new project wine in which Penfolds sourced fruit from the Barossa Valley. The wine was aged in French oak puncheons for 12 months prior to bottling.  The oaky undertones are a really good complement to the deep dark and blue fruits and chocolate aromatics that mingle beautifully in the glass. The texture of thew wine is sinfully good as the wine glides through the mid-palate. Black tea, blueberry compote, blackberry cobbler, cigar ash and boysenberry cordial flavors all delight the senses. While delicious now, this massive monster of a wine needs some more time to fully hit its stride. Drink 2020-2040- 96

2016 Penfolds ‘Bin 707’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Bin 707’ Cabernet Sauvignon by Penfolds is a massive beast that needs considerable time to develop. The wine saw considerable time (20 months) in new American oak prior to bottling. Following a three hour decant the wine slowly unveils toasty oak with black tea, anise, creme de cassis and cigar box aromas. The palate takes on a seamless quality as this effortlessly glides through the mid-palate. The wine is has a silky smooth texture. Moderately tannic, this gives off creosote, mocha, cigar ash and creme de cassis flavors. Rich and decadent, this great wine needs two or more years to fully express itself. Drink 2020-2045- 97

2014 Penfolds ‘Grange’ Shiraz- The 2014 Penfolds ‘Grange’ Shiraz is an absolutely stunning new wine that embodies precision, power and finesse. They have elected to blend in just a small portion of Cabernet Sauvignon (2%) into this magnificent wine. An ultra-ripe dense core, this 2014 Shiraz opens with intense tar, Turkish coffee, blueberry pie and sandalwood accents that round out this seductive nose. The palate is plush and inviting, showing off a downright sexy mouthfeel. This wine seamlessly glides across the mid-palate, delivering blackberry cordial, sweet pipe tobacco, anise and creme de cassis flavors that connect with the wonderfully refined tannins. Massive, yet showing a beautiful sense of elegance and place, this incredible new release will cellar marvelously for decades. Drink 2020-2045- 98

Kontos Cellars

Greetings to you all from a wet and rather cold Seattle. Today on Washington Wine Blog we bring you one of the outstanding boutique wineries in Walla Walla. Kontos Cellars is the project between brothers Cameron and Chris Kontos who are Walla Walla natives and have a longstanding history in not only agriculture but the wine industry. Their father, Cliff Kontos, was the founder of Fort Walla Walla Cellars, and helped mentor Cameron in his own winemaking journey. Cameron now makes a wine ‘The Boss’ in tribute to his father.

In 2002 Cameron joined Forgeron Cellars, and quickly was promoted assistant winemaker under eminent Walla Walla wine pioneer, Marie-Eve Gilla. Cameron trained under Marie and worked at Forgeron for eight years before starting Kontos with his brother.

Cameron’s winemaking style is highly structured but showcases beautiful ripeness. I have seen his progression as a winemaker and I very much enjoy the direction he is taking his wine program. Cameron makes an outstanding white wine, the 2018 Kontos Cellars ‘Gossamer’ White Wine (WWB, 91) which has an incredible texture and bright orchard and citrus fruits. The best wine I tried in this lineup was the 2016 Kontos Cellars ‘The Boss’ Red Wine (WWB, 94) which is dense, layered and decadent. This beautiful wine has the stuffing to go twenty years. Learn more about this great winery at https://kontoscellars.com Here are the great new releases by Kontos Cellars.

2018 Kontos Cellars ‘Gossamer’ White Wine-  This wine is a blend of 67% Chardonnay with 22% Roussanne and 11% Viognier. The texture here is great with bright starfruit, lemon zest and kumquat flavors that connect with the silly mouthfeel and bright sense of minerality. Drink 2019-2025- 91

2015 Kontos Cellars Merlot- This great Merlot (100%) is sourced from the Les Collines, Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills Vineyards. The wine shows ripe red cherry with oaky undertones on the nose. The palate has good richness with ripe black and red fruits that connect with the silky tannins. Bright and showing good richness and tension, this will cellar well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 92

2015 Kontos Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2015 Kontos Cabernet Sauvignon is largely sourced from the Pepper Bridge Vineyard and is a fantastic new release by Cameron Kontos. The wine starts off with blackberry jam, mocha, tar and sagebrush that all combine brightly in the glass. The palate shows good richness and mid-palate with blackberry compote, anise and creme de cause that all collide in the glass. Brilliant now, this will cellar beautifully for decades. Drink 2019-2033- 92

2015 Kontos Cellars ‘Alatus’ Red Wine- The ‘Alatus,’ is named after the winemaker’s grandfather’s sailboat. This is a fantastic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%) and Merlot (30%) with smaller portions Malbec and Syrah. The palate shows good mid-palate richness with mocha, roasted figs and suggestions of creme de cassis. The mouthfeel here is fantastic. Drink 2019-2033- 93

2016 Kontos Cellars Syrah-The 2016 Kontos Cellars Syrah is a fantastic release which was aged in 40% new oak prior to bottling. This starts off with aromas of dried herbs, red rose petals, black fruits and suggestions of mocha that come together in the glass. The acidity and viscosity of the wine shines through as the wine reveals copious dark fruits with sagebrush and dark chocolate tones that build in the glass. Fantastic now, this will evolve well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2016 Kontos Cellars ‘Tate Les Collines Vineyard’ Syrah- This limited production wine is named after the winemaker’s niece. The wine was aged for two years in 25% new oak prior to bottling. Really nice sage with black fruits mark the nose. The viscosity is great with intense dark fruits that combine with chocolate on the palate. While fantastic now, this will cellar well for another decade. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2016 Kontos Cellars Malbec- Sourced from the Seven Hills and Summit View vineyards, this opens with pretty lavender and violet aromas with mocha accents. The palate is plush, delivering rich dark fruit flavors with mocha and anise. This is fantastic stuff by the talented Cameron Kontos. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2016 Kontos ‘Baker Blend’ Malbec- This wine is a barrel selection wine sourced from the Seven Hills Vineyard. This wine begins with aromas of black tea, anise and blackberry compote. The palate has beautiful richness and restraint with blueberry cobbler, mocha, anise and black tea flavors the come together in the glass. Delightful now, this will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2033- 92

2016 Kontos ‘Dorsey’ Red Wine (Fall 2019 Release)- A tribute to the winemaker’s great great great grandfather who first came to Walla Walla in 1858, the wine is a silly blend of 31% Merlot, and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon with 25% Malbec and 19% Petit Verdot. The wine opens with a rich bouquet of fresh herbs with blackberry cobbler, mocha and  anise that all build in the glass. The palate is plush with black tea, anise, creme de cassis and fresh sage that all come together in the glass. Drinking marvelously now, this will cellar well for decades. Drink 2019-2033- 93

2016 Kontos Cellars ‘The Boss’ Red Wine- A magnum only wine, this wine is made by Cameron Kontos and his father, Cliff Kontos. It is named after Cliff who was the winemaker at Fort Walla Walla Cellars. A blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot with a small portion Cabernet Franc, this opens with a decadent nose of sagebrush, creme de cassis and Turkish coffee that collect in the glass. The mouthfeel is seriously good with mocha, anise and creme de cassis flavors that mingle brilliantly. A fantastic wine now, this will cellar well for the next twenty years. Drink 2019-2035- 94

Interview with Charles Smith, Owner and Winemaker of K Vintners and Wines of Substance

Friends, today is a special day as we bring you one of the iconic figures in Washington wine. Charles Smith brought his rock star persona on the Washington wine scene starting in 1999 and the rest has been history. A remarkable, self-made man, Charles talks about starting his winery as well as his life as a rock band manager in his previous life. I think you will very much enjoy hearing more about his story in wine. Here is my exclusive interview with Charles Smith, Owner and Winemaker of K Vintners. 

WWB: Some of the wine community may not know that you spent several years as a successful rock band manager. What was it like working with the Cardigans, one of the awesome bands of the ‘90s? What was the rock and roll road life like?

CS: I just started managing bands out of necessity. I was bartending at a little Rock-n-Roll bar in Copenhagen and started booking bands. People that eventually got their careers kinda started there. When I stopped working at the bar, I started to be their manager and that is what took me through the ‘90s. It was a lot of fun. I traveled around the world, saw a lot of great shows, met a lot of interesting people and formulated the ‘do it yourself’ attitude. Not so much attitude but the idea that I could do whatever I set myself out to do and that really related to the fact that I decided to make wine. I created something out of nothing with the music because I needed to eat. I started something out of nothing with my wine because it is what I wanted for my future and for my life.”

WWB: How did you decide to launch K Vintners in 1999 and later Charles Smith Wines?

CS: It really came back to a road trip on how I started K Vintners in 1999. I went through Walla Walla and was invited to a BBQ. I was encouraged to start making wine and was offered the opportunity to do so by the way of some free grapes. I found that this was the thing that I wanted to do for the rest of my life. One thing led to another and next thing I know I found that I was pretty good at selling and making wine, so I decided why not bring the wine to the people.  Most people can’t afford the $35-$55 bottles of wine so I started Charles Smith Wines because I think everybody should have access to good wine no matter how much money they have. So, the idea here was simply take all the skill sets that you have, the ability to communicate the language of wine to everybody because not everybody speaks wine and put out varietals that I think people will find delicious. I was somehow redefining the way and perspective that people see things. For example, some people think that Riesling equals sweet. I started Kung Fu Girl… to me Riesling equals delicious and that is how I started Charles Smith Wines.”

WWB: I have enjoyed many vintages of your absolutely stunning K Vintners ‘Royal City’ Syrah, one of the great wines made in Washington which has landed on my Top 100 on multiple occasions. What was it about the Stoneridge Vineyard that first enchanted you? What kinds of flavor and aromatic profiles do you like to get from this beautiful wine? 

CS: Agreed, Royal City Syrah is really something special. I didn’t plant the vineyard there, but I discovered it after it been never been harvested in 2005 from the 2004 vintage because the man who had it, passed away. I just felt there was something magical about the site and the soil. It was just completely isolated. The family that owned the vines worked really hard in the vineyard. I don’t know, it was just maybe some fairy dust and I was supposed to be there to make this wine. Turned out to be the first wine I produced that received 100 points. The flavors and aromatics of the wine are very much like if you took a shovel full of dirt, dug in and tossed (flipped) it over. It smells of this loamy, earthy, mineral-driven, complex, decomposing soil of things that are alive and undergrowth. It really has so much of this ‘not like anything else’ character about it. Wine is magical. It is something that you really can’t describe or quite understand and just accept that in some ways it’s a miracle and take it for what it is.

WWB: I’ve heard from several wine industry colleagues that you have an absolutely epic wine cellar. What are some of your favorite wines of the world that you have opened in the past year? 

CS: am not so sure I have an epic wine cellar but I do have a lot of delicious wine. I am not a collector; I am a drinker. You might look at some of the wines I have and think ‘are you collecting these?’ No, the idea is that all the wines in the cellar are ready to drink. And it can be everything from a somewhat inexpensive German Riesling to German Rieslings that are 40 or 50 years old. It can be fresh, ripe mineral-driven white wines but what I really have is a cellar full of absolutely delicious wines that you could basically close your eyes, put your hand out, pick a bottle and it would probably be something that you would really fancy drinking. God, wines that I have opened in the last year... I would almost be bragging by mentioning it but I think when you find delicious wines, you drink them. I just happened to have a Magnum of 1961 Chambertin at dinner about three or four months ago and the wine was very pale, but color is not everything. The wine was full, delicious and super finesse driven. I do have my favorite things that I love to drink and I do love to drink Meursault, Chablis… I love Chateauneuf du Pape with roasted meats but one of the wines that really has my heart is Chianti.  I love the idea that you put this on your table, pour it in your glass drink it with pasta, sauces or roasted meat. The thing is there is nothing else you want on your table more than this. It’s highly drinkable and you always know that there is more room in your glass for one more glass.  That is what Chianti does for me.

Reynvaan Family Vineyards

Reynvaan Family VinIt was a modestly warm spring afternoon as I pulled up to Reynvaan Family Vineyards. I was immediately greeted by Matt Reynvaan and his new assistant winemaker as we dove right into the new wines. I was told the the wines had been opened for several hours which was no surprise how remarkably well each wine showed. My 2018 Washington Wine Blog Winery of the Year, Reynvaan Family Vineyards, is a small production winery founded by Mike and Gale Reynvaan. Reynvaan Family Vineyards focuses on producing wines from their estate vineyards, both in the Walla Walla Rocks region and their ‘Foothills Vineyard’ set at roughly 1600 feet near their family home in the Bluewood Mountains. Matt Reynvaan has been consistently making some of the great wines out of Washington. Not only does he make some stunning red wines but his white wines are not only some of the top in Washington but rival the best in North America. Matt’s wines exude class with their amazing combination of terroir, viscosity, tension and range.

The new release wines come from a slightly cooler vintage, 2017. This was a vintage that was slightly cooler than vintages 2013-16, as bloom was slightly delayed and wildfires created a layer of smoke which kept sunlight down, resulting in grapes taking their time to achieve phenolic ripeness. The harvest ended up being quite late with lower temperatures in September.

I am absolutely blown away with the white wines by Reynvaan, none more so than the 2017 Reynvaan Family Vineyards ‘In The Rocks Vineyard’ Viognier (WWB, 96) which is the highest rated white wine I have ever sampled from Washington. This wine is simply magical with its incredible range and elegance as well as rich texture. Just as good is the 2017 Reynvaan Family Vineyards ‘Foothills Reserve’ Syrah (WWB, 96) which has insanely good range and depth at its early stages in development. This wine will only get better with a few years of bottle age. Learn more about about these stunning wines at https://www.reynvaanfamilyvineyards.com Here the exciting new release wines by Reynvaan Family Vineyards 

2017 Reynvaan Family Vineyards ‘In The Rocks Vineyard’ Grenache Blanc- The absolutely dazzling 2017 Reynvaan Family Vineyards ‘In The Rocks’ Grenache Blanc saw 60% new French oak prior to bottling. The wine takes on beautiful aromas of roasted hazelnuts, lychee, white peach and freshly cut white flowers that all meld together marvelously in the glass. The texture is simply marvelous as the wine takes on a silky mouthfeel that glides through the mid-palate. Bright cantaloupe, lychee, citrus zest and shades of wet stone all come together marvelously on the palate. This is the best rendition of this varietal in the state. Drink 2019-2029- 94

2017 Reynvaan Family Vineyards ‘In The Rocks Vineyard’ Viognier- The 2017 Reynvaan Family Vineyards ‘In The Rocks Vineyard’ Viognier is a dazzling new wine by superstar winemaker Matt Reynvaan. The silky mouthfeel is downright unctuous and creates a sensational, mouth-watering effect with an incredible sense of minerality. The salinity and stony character in the wine is marvelous as the wine seamlessly glides through the mid-palate. Wet stone, honeydew melon, lychee, and exotic tropical fruits all mingle together effortlessly in the glass. A show-stopping wine that is truly up there with the upper echelon in North America white wines, this tour de force Viognier is marvelous now in its youth but will evolve gracefully over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 96

2017 Reynvaan ‘In The Rocks Vineyard’ Marsanne- (95-97 barrel sample)

2016 Reynvaan Family Vineyards ‘Queens Road’ White Wine- The a blend of 55% Marsanne and 45% Viognier, the ‘Queens Road’ was aged for 22 months in 50% new French oak prior to bottling, as this was released Fall 2018. The wine takes on a hedonistic nose with banana, buttercream, green papaya and suggestions of nutmeg infused hazelnuts that all marvelously combine in the glass. Mouth-watering acidity and a sensational texture greet you alongside a strong salinity. The palate is seriously seductive, revealing layers of orchard fruits and dense tropical fruits with nutty and stony undertones that complete this sensational wine. Drink 2019-2029- 94

2017 Reynvaan Family Vineyards ‘In The Hills’ Syrah- The ‘In The Hills’ Syrah has 10% Viognier co-fermented in. The nose is hugely complex with horse manure, blood orange, bulls blood, iodine and fresh tobacco and sage that all fill the nose. The aromatic range here is simply exceptional. The palate is currently displaying gobs of mouth-watering acidity with remarkable freshness and tension. The weight of this Syrah entices as the wine seamlessly glides across the mid-palate. Suggestions of dried herbs, white truffle, blackberry jam, pipe tobacco and peat moss flavors all collide on the palate. This show-stopping Syrah is seriously good right now but will cellar well for another decade. Drink 2019-2029- 95

2017 Reynvaan Family Vineyards ‘Foothills Reserve’ Syrah- The 2017 ‘Foothills Reserve’ Syrah is a simply magical new wine by Matt Reynvaan. The nose takes on highly hedonistic tones, showing beautiful range from orange zest to Umami to bacon fat and roasted dates with fresh sage that all collide in the glass. Silky smooth on the mid-palate the wine unveils a remarkable depth and salinity. The elegance here is extraordinary with a sensational mouthfeel. Hoisin sauce, blood orange, bulls blood and Umami with wild blackberry cobbler flavors all combine marvelously in the glass. The exceedingly long finish lingers long on the palate. Drink 2019-2033- 96

Argyle

As we continue our journey through another great Oregon Wine Month, we bring you one of the great producers of sparkling wine in North America. I first visited this tasting room in 2002 and I can testify that what was one a small, unpretentious cabin used for tasting is now one of the most beautiful structures for tasting wine in Oregon.  The talented Nate Klostermann took over for eminent winemaker Rollin Soles when Rollin launched his own project. Nate has steadily been producing some absolutely stunning wines as he began his career as a harvest intern at Argyle in 2005 and has served as winemaker since 2013. He has crafted some absolutely brilliant new wines at Argyle.

Look to the incredible 2016 Argyle ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) which has beautiful range and a wonderful texture as this ‘Reserve’ is an amazing value at this price point. One of the best wines of Oregon that I have sampled in the past year, the 2008 Argyle ‘Extended Tirage’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 96) is up there with the best ‘Extended Tirage’ bottlings that I have ever sampled. With its irresistible combination of poise and richness, simply put, this wine rivals any of the top sparkling wines made in North America. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.argylewinery.com Here are the outstanding new wines by Argyle.

2014 Argyle ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine- Entirely sourced from the Spirit Hill Vineyard, this brilliant new sparkling wine opens with wonderfully musty undertones that connect with the bright citrus fruit and melon accents on the nose. The palate is highly refined, showing kumquat, lemon zest, cantaloupe and suggestions of Challah bread flavors that combine neatly in the mouth. While beautiful now, this excellent new bottling will cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2008 Argyle ‘Extended Tirage’ Sparkling Wine- The 2008 Argyle ‘Extended Tirage’ Sparkling Wine is a simply marvelous effort from this storied vintage in Oregon. Spending ten years on the lees until disgorgement in 2018, the 2008 ‘Extended Tirage’ opens with a highly complex bouquet of marzipan layered with orchard fruits and baking spices, with pear moss undertones that all take beautiful shape in the glass. The combination of weight and balance of the wine is exquisite. A beam of salinity runs through ripe pear, kumquat, Shitake mushroom and green papaya flavors. Seductive and rich from this incredible vintage in Oregon this will continue to evolve well over the next fifteen plus years. I have found that this wine tends to show more beautifully a touch on the warmer side and is even more expressive in an Oregon Pinot Glass. This is truly one of the glorious sparkling wines of North America. Drink 2019-2035- 96

2018 Argyle Rose- Showing off a brilliant Salmon hue, the 2018 Rose by Argyle opens with pretty rose water with honeydew melon, red cherry and wet stone tones that fill the nose. The wine comes together with strong citrus zest tones on the palate that collide with the delicate red fruits. Drink 2019-2023- 89

2017 Argyle Pinot Noir- Argyle’s entry level Pinot Noir shows really good aromatic range from cinnamon to red currant to citrus blossom and earthy undertones that all connect in the glass. The texture is highly refined as the wine reveals bright red fruits that connect with the citrus rind and peat moss tones on the palate. This is seriously good for the price. Drink 2019-2025- 90

2016 Argyle ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 Argyle ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir is a terrific wine for the price. On the nose this has really good range from blood orange to forest floor to black fruits and sage undertones. The silky texture really entices as black and red fruits mingle with blood orange and iodine flavors. Showing a really good savory and earthy character, this delicious ‘Reserve’ will cellar well for a decade or more.  Drink 2019-2033- 93

Adelsheim

As part of Oregon wine month we bring you a great historic Oregon winery first founded in 1971. Adelsheim’s roots began in the northern portion of the Willamette Valley in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. Visionary David Adelsheim had previously worked in Beaune as well as The Eyrie Vineyards before starting his own winery in Oregon. Having spent time in Burgundy, he saw the potential for producing Pinot Noir in Oregon. Today Adelsheim now owns nearly 200 acres of land, with 180 acres of vineyards as they produce a brilliant range of wines — from Rose to stony Pinot Noir. Vineyard sites range from high elevation to low elevation, as well as volcanic and sedimentary soils. 

Last year I visited with their head winemaker, Gina Hennen, who has been at Adelsheim for 11 years, starting in the cellar and working her way up. Gina previously worked as semiconductor engineer for seven years in both Oregon and Dublin, Ireland. A former graduate of Reed College, Gina knew that her roots were in the Pacific Northwest and found her calling in winemaking.

Her new wines were brilliant across the board. I was very impressed with her 2018 Adelsheim Rose (WWB, 90) which shows delicate red fruits and tons of brilliant acidity on the mid-palate. I was really impressed by her 2015 Adelsheim ‘Zenith Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) which has incredible terroir from this wonderful vineyard owned by St. Innocent’s Mark Vlossak. Learn more about these beautiful new releases at http://www.adelsheim.com Here are the excellent new release wines by Adelsheim. 

2018 Adelsheim Rose- The 2018 Adelshiem Rose shows off a brilliant salmon hue and opens with bright melon and wet stone tones with lighter red fruits that fill the nose. The palate takes on a ton of lip-smacking acidity, revealing bright cranberry and honeydew melon flavors that connect with the good sense of minerality. Drink 2019-2023- 90

2017 Adelsheim ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay- This opens with aromas of baked apple, citrus zest and hints of vanilla cream that all fill the nose. The texture is inviting, as is the enticing mouth-watering acidity that builds in the mouth. Delicious now, this would pair beautifully with fresh oysters. Drink 2019-2025- 90

2016 Adelsheim ‘Staking Claim’ Chardonnay- The 2016 ‘Staking Claim’ opens with wonderful toasted hazelnut, vanilla cream and banana tones that round out the seductive nose. The palate has good ripeness and texture, unveiling banana, wet stone, lemon zest and Pink Lady apple flavors. Delicious now, this will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2016 Adelsheim ‘Ribbon Springs Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from the Ribbon Springs Vineyard in the Ribbon Ridge AVA, this opens with an intense aromatic profile of lemon zest, Japanese pear and undertones of hay and wild mushroom that all connect in the glass. The palate has great intensity with orchard fruit flavors, leading to an exceedingly long and mineral driven finish. This is a seriously good effort. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2015 Adelsheim ‘Caitlin’s Reserve’ Chardonnay- The ‘Caitlin’s Reserve’ Chardonnay is a fantastic barrel-selection bottling from this storied estate. On the nose this takes on marvelous richness with nutmeg, toasty brioche, baked apple and suggestions of white truffle. The earthy tones awaken the senses as the wine has a wonderful mouthfeel and a seamless texture throughout. A stunning wine, the ‘Caitlin’s Reserve’ will have a long life ahead of it — but is marvelous in its youth. Drink 2019-2033- 93

2017 Adelsheim ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- This bottling stats off with red currant and citrus rind on the nose with lighter wet stone undertones. The palate has good freshness with medium bodied red and dark fruit flavors with hints of damp earth. Drink 2019-2023- 89

2015 Adelsheim ‘Breaking Ground’ Pinot Noir- First made in 2014, this Pinot Noir is sourced from the Chehalem Mountains and is blended from vines planted on loess, sedimentary and volcanic soils. The nose takes on nice terroir with earthy tones and wet stone character alongside some dark fruits. There is nice mid-palate poise as the mouthfeel and tension drives this wine. Red currant jelly, orange rind, and red fruit flavors come together nicely in the glass. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2015 Adelsheim ‘Boulder Bluff’ Pinot Noir- This is the youngest of the plantings that are estate owned by Adelsheim. Peat moss and smoky accents with dark fruits build in the glass aromatically. The ‘Boulder Bluff’ Pinot Noir has a silky texture and ripe mouthfeel. The wine shows off red fruits like guava and cherry that dance with the strong minerality. This is another excellent bottling by Adelsheim. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2015 Adelsheim ‘Winderlea’ Pinot Noir- The Winderlea Vineyard is a 20 acre parcel of land and Adelsheim sources from one acre which is planted to Dijon clone 667. The nose evokes dark fruit aromas with lighter earthy undertones that all collide in the glass. The silky texture entices as the wine yields bright dark fruit, red fruit and citrus rind flavors that connect with the peat moss and wet stone accents of this beautifully layered Pinot Noir. Drink 2019-2033- 93

2015 Adelsheim ‘Nicholas Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced for the Nicholas Vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, this Pinot Noir opens with intense aromas of wild mushroom, peat moss and wild blackberry preserves that all build in the glass. Smooth and refined, the wine delivers a good combination of dark fruits with blood orange zest and peat moss flavors. Delicious now, this will evolve well for the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2019-2033- 93

2015 Adelsheim ‘Ribbon Springs Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Set in the Ribbon Ridge AVA, the Ribbon Springs Vineyard is a 60-acre Adelsheim estate which as first planted in 1996. The nose is bright with red fruits and citrus rind accents adding the the intrigue with undertones of cardamom. The palate has a good combination of weight and freshness as guava, red currant and blood orange zest with peat moss undertones all collide in the mouth. Delightful now, this will continue to develop over the next two decades. Drink 2019-2033- 93

2015 Adelsheim ‘Calkin’s Lane Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The Calkins Lane Vineyard is perched in the Chehalem Mountains AVA as this vineyard is set on marine sedimentary soils. On the nose this shows cloves with red currant and red cherry preserves that round out the nose. The palate has good weight as bright red fruits connect with a good salinity that runs through this beautiful wine. Drink 2019-2033- 92

2015 Adelsheim ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- One of the great Willamette Valley Vineyards, the Temperance Hill Vineyardis located in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. The nose delights with bright red fruits, kumquat and wet stone accents that connect in the glass. The palate has a good combination of freshness and poise as the wine delivers medium-bodied red fruit and citrus flavors. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2015 Adelsheim ‘Bryan Creek Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2015 ‘Bryan Creek Vineyard’ Pinot Noir opens with bright red fruits with citrus and peat moss tones on the nose. The palate shows off a silky texture with ripe guava and citrus zest flavors alongside the earthy undertones. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2015 Adelsheim ‘Zenith Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Zenith Vineyard,’ owned by St. Innocent’s Mark Vlossak, has become one of the great vineyards in the Willamette Valley. This Pinot Noir slowly unveils wonderful aromatic range, from smoked meats to volcanic earth to ripe cranberry and wild blackberry tones that shine on the nose. The palate is elegant and rich, showing enticing red and dark fruit flavors with blood orange and a dusting of volcanic earth. Deep and layered, this beautiful wine will cellar well for decades. Drink 2019-2035- 93

2015 Adelsheim ‘Elizabeth’s Reserve’ Pinot Noir- The 2015 ‘Elizabeth’s Reserve’ Pinot Noir is another outstanding bottling from this famed Oregon estate. Bright red fruits, cinnamon, peat moss and toasty oak line this expressive nose. The texture to this wine is seriously good, as is the floral tones and bright acidity that races through this excellent Pinot Noir. While delicious in its youth, this will cellar well over the next two decades.  Drink 2019-2035- 93

Leonetti Cellar

One of the great historic Washington wineries, Leonetti Cellar was founded by eminent winemaker Gary Figgins in 1977. At the time he was the first Washington winery to by highly acclaimed as his 1978 Cabernet Sauvignon was named top Cabernet of the year by Wine & Spirits magazine. I have been enchanted with the aging potential of these wines over the year. I’ve tried several aged Leonetti wines over the past year and several stand out in particular: the 2002 Leonetti Sangiovese was incredibly vibrant for its age, the 2006 Leonetti Merlot was showing marvelously and has a long life ahead of it and the 2009 Leonetti Merlot is soft, round and generous at now ten years of age.

I recently had the chance to review the new set of releases by Leonetti and was completely blown away with the quality in the bottle. For those who are a bit less familiar, Leonetti sources from great Walla Walla vineyards including their own Leonetti Old Block, as well as Mill Creek Upland, Loess vineyards and their Holly Roller Vineyard in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA. Their new releases were largely from the warm 2016 vintage — a vintage that I have seen carry some impressive red wines thus far in my reviewing.

I was absolutely blown away with the 2016 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese (WWB, 95) as this is one of the best Sangiovese releases from this house and rivals any new world Sangiovese wine. I think you would very hard pressed to find a better new world example of this varietal with its earthy tones and remarkable richness and texture. Even better was the scintillating 2016 Leonetti Cellar‘Reserve’ Red Wine (WWB, 97) which has amazing richness and intensity. This wine is only an infant and really needs a few more years of bottle age. Learn more about these beautiful new release wines at http://leonetticellar.com Here are the impressive new lineup of wines from Leonetti Cellar.

2016 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese- The 2016 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese was sourced from the Seven Hills, Loess, Mill Creek Upland and Holly Roller vineyards. The wine was aged in French oak for 22 months prior to bottling. Toasty oak wraps around copious dark fruits, red fruits and pipe tobacco on the rather intoxicating nose. The palate is exceedingly plush, revealing a beautiful texture and a soft mouthfeel. The earthy undertones of leather and underbrush combine marvelously with roasted dates, pipe tobacco and wild blackberry cobbler flavors on the palate. Round, generous and layered, this is quite simply the finest of its kind in Washington. Enjoy this beautiful new wine over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2019-2035- 95

2017 Leonetti Cellar Merlot- A downright stunning new Merlot, the 2017 Leonetti Cellar Merlot was aged for fifteen months in French oak prior to bottling. Needing more than a one hour decant to fully develop, the wine shows intense dark fruits that mingle with chocolate fudge and black tea with Asian spices on the nose. The palate has a great combination of freshness and richness as Earl Grey tea, mocha, cassis, graphite and leather flavors all combine marvelously alongside a good sense of minerality. While simply gorgeous now, this beautiful wine will evolve well over the next fifteen to twenty years. If enjoying in its youth, be sure to give this beautiful Merlot at least an hour decant. Drink 2020-2040- 95

2016 Leonetti Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 Leonetti Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon is a simply irresistible new wine made by superstar winemaker Chris Figgins. Sourced from the Mill Creek Upland, Loess, Seven Hills, Serra Pedache and Holly Roller VIneyards, the wine is a silky blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller portions Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. Showing off its brooding core, the 2016 Leonetti Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon opens with sagebrush with red bell pepper, Turkish coffee, and dark chocolate shavings. The palate shows incredible richness with a silky mouthfeel. Blackberry cobbler, creme de cassis, anise, graphite and exotic spice flavors with toasty oak all mingle brilliantly on the palate. A long-ager, be sure to give this beautiful wine at least a two hour decant if savoring in its early years. This is truly one of the best of its kind in Washington. Drink 2020-2040- 96

2016 Leonetti Cellar ‘Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2016 ‘Reserve’ Red Wine is a magnificent new release by Leonetti Cellar. Sourced from the Loess, Seven Hills, Holly Roller, Serra Pedace, Mill Creek Upland and Leonetti Old Block Vineyards, the red blend was aged for 22 months in French oak before bottling. The final blend is a smaller than usual portion of Cabernet Sauvignon (73%) and an unusually high portion of Malbec (22%) with just a touch of Cabernet Franc (5%). This wine needs a two hour decant before enjoying. Once aroused, this slowly unveils green bell pepper, blueberry compote, creme de cassis and sagebrush tones that fill this highly perfumed nose. The palate is decadent, revealing an exceedingly plush texture. With bright acidity and serious weight, the wine expresses copious dark fruits with sweet pipe tobacco, blueberry compote and dark chocolate shaving flavors. Seductive in its youth, this stunning new bottling will have an exceedingly long life ahead of it. Try to resist this beauty for at least another year. Drink 2020-2045- 97

Sojourn Cellars

One of the great wineries of Sonoma, Sojourn Cellars began in 2001 as a partnership between two tennis buddies who discovered a mutual passion for great wine. At Sojourn Craig and Ellen Haserot work together with winemaker Erich Bradley, the former winemaker at Arrowood Winery in Sonoma. A native of Palo Alto, California, Erich has a degree in bio-chemistry from the esteemed University of Chicago and a degree in Philosophy and Modern European Intellectual History from the University of California at Irvine. He is obviously a talented mind and brings this intellect to his very technically sound collection of wines.  

Erich has been mentored by eminent winemakers Richard Arrowood and David Ramey and sources his wines from some fantastic California vineyards, including Gap’s Crown Vineyard and the Durell Vineyard. The new releases by Sojourn were beautiful across the board. Look to the 2017 Sojourn ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 92) which has really good richness and a wonderful mouthfeel. I really enjoyed the 2016 Sojourn Cellars ‘Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 94) which shows incredible richness with toasty oak and layers of dark fruits. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.sojourncellars.com Here are the great new wines by Sojourn Cellars.

2017 Sojourn ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay- Sourced from a host of Sonoma Coast AVA vineyards, this wine was aged in 30% new French oak prior to bottling. Brioche, vanilla cream and roasted pineapple aromas fill the glass. The palate is rich, showing a good sense of place. Vanilla creme brûlée, banana and butterscotch flavors all impress. Enjoy this excellent wine over the next decade. Drink 2019-2026- 91

2017 Sojourn ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The Sojourn ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Chardonnay is a sensational effort. On the nose bright brioche, lemon zest and ripe pineapple flavors all impress. The palate shows a soft texture and a silky mouthfeel. Toasty oak wraps around vanilla cream, ripe banana and pineapple flavors with a touch of kumquat. Downright delicious now, this excellent wine will continue to evolve over a decade or more. Drink 2019-2028- 92

2017 Sojourn ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir- This starts off with a bouquet of cherry cola with sassafras and black tea elements also shining brightly. The palate displays a brisk acidity with bright minerals that connect with cran-cherry, pomegranate seed and Mandarin orange rind flavors. Energetic and enticing, this will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 20189-2028- 92

2017 Sojourn Rodgers Creek VIneyard’ Pinot Noir- Located in the Sonoma Coast AVA, the Rodgers Creek Vineyard is set on a high ridge in the middle of the Petaluma Gap. This was partially whole-cluster fermented (20%) prior to being aged in French oak (50% new). The nose takes on bright bing cherry aromas with lighter citrus rind and forest floor components. The palate displays a soft mouthfeel as toasty oak sets over red and dark fruits with blood orange zest flavors. Ripe and generous, this will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2030- 93

2017 Sojourn ‘Walala Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 ‘Walala Vineyard’ Pinot Noir by Sojourn is a downright gorgeous effort. The Walala Vineyard is located in the Sonoma Coast AVA and is set only a few miles from the Pacific Ocean as the maritime influence is quite prominent in the vineyard. Teaberry, Yakima cherry and cran-pomegranate aromas fill the glass. The palate shows a ripe texture and a silky mouthfeel that delights. Red fruits like pomegranate, guava and red cherry seem to dominate, with lighter cola and peat moss tones that round out the palate. Downright delicious now, this will continue to evolve well over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2019-2030- 93

2017 Sojourn ‘Gap’s Crown’ Pinot Noir- The Gap’s Crown Vineyard is one of the great vineyards of the in the Sonoma Coast AVA, set between 300 and 800 feet, right next to the Sangiocomo VIneyard. This wine opens with a bouquet of white rose, cran-pomegranate and orange zest. The salinity of the wine shines through as bright red cherry candy, guava puree, Mandarin orange rind and cola flavors all marvelously combine on the palate. This marvelous wine shows not only serious range but a beautiful, soft texture. Enjoy this over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2030- 94

2017 Sojourn ‘Sangiocomo Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The Sangiocomo Vineyard has a very strong maritime influence being only a few miles from the Pacific Ocean. Sojourn has been sourcing from this esteemed vineyard since 2004. The wine starts off with a bright bouquet of dark cherry cough syrup, cola, sassafras and a touch of diatomaceous earth. The palate reveals a silky mouthfeel with plush dark and red fruit flavors with a touch of cran-orange. Refined and offering light tannins, this is a stunning effort by Sojourn. Drink 2019-2030- 93

2016 Sojourn ‘Proprietary Cuvee’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Proprietary Cuvee’ by Sojourn is sourced from some esteemed vineyard sites in Napa: the Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III in Rutherford as well as the Oakville Ranch Vineyard. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine was aged for 18 months in largely new (75%) French oak prior to bottling. The nose is gorgeous showing highly perfumed creme de cassis, black tea, Asian spice and mocha aromas that continue to build in the glass. The wine shows off a silky mouthfeel as mocha, tar, anise and creme de cassis flavors shine brightly alongside the toasty oak on the palate. Rich, decadent and hard to resist now, this awesome wine by Erich Bradley has a long life in the cellar. Drink 2019-2035- 94

2016 Sojourn ‘Oakville’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Oakville’ Cabernet Sauvignon is largely comprised of Oakville Ranch fruit. The vineyard is set at 1,000 to 1,400 feet above sea level, and is set on a combination with soils of clay over volcanic rock. This wine shows its best aromatic expression following a one hour decant. Once aroused it displays coffee ground, roasted fig and black cherry compote aromas that impress. The palate is plush and refined, showing some mild tannins with creme de cassis, Turkish coffee, and roasted date flavors. Downright delicious now, this will cellar well for the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2019-2033- 92

2016 Sojourn ‘Home Ranch Cuvee’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Home Ranch Vineyard’ is located on the western edge of the Sonoma Valley. The wine shows off intense blackberry pie, mocha, anise and sagebrush undertones that fill the nose. Soft and refined on the palate, the wine shows a silky texture. Blackberry pie, black tea, anise and creme de cassis with coffee ground flavors all impress. Downright delicious now, this wine will cellar well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 92

2016 Sojourn ‘Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Beckstoffer Georges III’ is a gorgeous new wine by Sojourn and winemaker Erich Bradley. On the nose this takes on some classic Rutherford terroir with dusty earth, Creme de cassis and anise aromatics with a touch of milk chocolate. Showing a good combination of viscosity and tension on the mid-palate, this yields ripe boysenberry cordial, black tea, Creme de cassis and red bell pepper flavors that are enveloped by toasty oak. This has some serious range as this warm vintage wine shows not only copious dark fruits but good terroir. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next two decades. Drink 2019-2040- 94

Tertulia Cellars

One of the exciting winery projects out of Walla Walla, Tertulia Cellars was founded in 2005 and is set in the picturesque foreground of the Blue Mountains.  Ryan Raber has been winemaker here for many years and works with vineyard manager, Ryan Driver to craft wines from three highly unique sites in the Walla Walla Valley. Their vineyard in the North Fork of the Walla Walla River is quite a site to be seen, as I visited this stunning setting a year ago. There are a host of highly unique varietals planted on this vineyard set on loess but also fractured basalt. The 2018 Marsanne (WWB, 91) from this site is particularly good, imparting a brilliant stony character in the wines. I recently visited the winery and enjoyed talking with Tertulia Cellars owner Jim O’Connell and Raber. They talked about the advantages of having three separate vineyard sites for their lineup of wines.

Ryan Raber has crafted some excellent new wines, just as he did last year. I was hugely impressed with his 2018 Tertulia Cellars Rose (WWB, 91) which has a remarkable texture and a silky mouthfeel, as the wine shows some seriously good range. Do not miss out on this wine. Even better was the 2016 Tertulia Cellars ‘The Great Schism Reserve’ Red Wine (WWB, 92) which has wonderful balance and range, from bacon fat to citrus tones. Learn more about this great winery at http://www.tertuliacellars.com/ Here are the new wines by Tertulia Cellars. 

2018 Tertulia Cellars Rose- The texture imparted here is really fantastic as this balanced, yet viscous Rose shows copious red fruits with melon undertones. A fantastic effort by winemaker Ryan Raber, this beautiful wine will continue to evolve over the next five plus years. Drink 2019-2024- 91

2018 Tertulia Cellars ‘Elevation Estate Vineyard’ Marsanne- You are immediately drawn to the stony undertones that shape the nose with lychee and lemon zest aromas that come together in the glass. The palate shows a really nice mouthfeel with bright melon flavors that connect with the mineral and light wet stone tones on the palate. This is fantastic now and will cellar well over the next seven years. Drink 2019-2025- 91

2016 Tertulia Cellars ‘The Great Schism Reserve’ Red Wine- Sourced from their estate Riviera Galets Estate Vineyard, the ‘Great Schism Reserve’ Red Wine is largely Grenache (55%) and Syrah (40%) with a touch of Mourvedre (5%) included in the blend. The nose shows really good range from bacon fat to wet stone to citrus rind and Umami tones that awaken the senses. The palate shows a seamless quality on the palate, as beautiful red fruits connect with blood orange, smoked bacon and cran-pomegranate flavors. Showing marvelously now, this beautiful wine will evolve well over the next seven to ten years. Drink 2019-2025- 92

2016 Tertulia Cellars ‘Ryan’s Reserve’ Red Wine- The ‘Ryan’s Reserve’ is named after winemaker Ryan Raber and vineyard manager Ryan Driver. The wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (31%) with Merlot (31%), Petit Verdot (16%), Cabernet Franc (13%) and Malbec (7%). Showing a dark core, the wine unveils smoky undertones with chocolate and anise aromas. The palate shows good freshness and astringency. Black fruits mingle with coffee ground and chocolate flavors on the palate. Drink 2019-2025- 90

2015 Tertulia Cellars ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The wine starts off with aromas of black tea with red bell pepper and blackberry pie. The palate is plush, delivering medium bodied dark and red fruit flavors that connect with a nice minerality. Drink 2019-2025- 90

2015 Tertulia Cellars ‘Phinny Hill Vineyard’ Carmenere- The 2015 ‘Phinny Hill Vineyard’ Carmenere is a fantastic bottling. The herbal tones on the nose entice and connect with dark fruits that build in the glass. On the palate there is a good freshness and salinity with dark cherry and wild blackberry with black tea and green herbs that round out this excellent wine. Drink 2019-2025- 91

Hattingley Valley

As I walked the vineyard in the pouring rain I was amazed that this area produces wine. It was a hugely wet and damp February morning in Hampshire. My colleague and I had traveled the 90 minute trek from Central London to arrive in the British countryside. Hattingley Valley is a family owned business located in Hampshire specialising in premium English sparkling wines. Simon Robinson founded Hattingley Valley in 2008, planting Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in his 24 hectacre vineyard (60 acres). With help from the talented Emma Rice they established their winery in 2010. Wines are fermented using a small portion of of oak barrels wit the remainder stainless steel. Winemaker Emma Rice studied at Plumpton College and has worked in winemaking from Tasmania to California. I met her for the first time more than a year ago at a conference in Oregon and I was very glad to coordinate with her my visit to Hattingley. Emma’s first release was in 2013 and they export their wines to 16 countries worldwide.

I was very impressed with the latest set of Hattingley releases. These wines show a common thread of wonderfully chalky terroir. A really good value, the NV Hattingley Valley ‘Classic Reserve’ Brut Sparkling Wine (WWB, 90) shows really good range and a racy acidity. This would make a marvelous aperitif. The best wine that I sampled was the 2014 Hattingley Valley Rose Sparkling Wine (WWB, 92) which has really good mid-palate weight and a brilliant salinity that combines with the tart red fruits. Learn more about this outstanding English producer of sparkling wine at https://www.hattingleyvalley.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Hattingley Valley.

NV Hattingley Valley ‘Classic Reserve’ Brut Sparkling Wine- Founded in 2008 by Simon and Nicola Robinson, Hattingley Valley is located in Hampshire, England and is set on chalky soils The ‘Classic Reserve’ is a blend of several vintage wines (18% reserve wines) and opens with biscuit aromas with lemon zest and shades of salted Marcona almond. The palate unveils a lovely mouthfeel as brisk acidity and salinity races through pear, wet stone and kumquat flavors. Drink 2019-2025- 90

2011 Hattingley Valley Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine- The 2011 Blanc de Blancs by Hattingley Valley shows a vibrant hue and opens with sourdough bread, kumquat and shades of forest floor that fill the nose. The palate shows good astringency and weight with bright lemon oil, nectarine rind and green apple torte flavors. Bright and lively, this racy, saline-infused Chardonnay Sparkling Wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2014 Hattingley Valley Rose Sparkling Wine- The Hattingley Valley 2014 Rose is a seriously good blend of 60% Pinot Noir with smaller portions Pinot Meunier and Pinot Precoce. A brilliant salmon color, this opens with a bright bouquet of red currant, wild mushroom and shades of lemongrass that build on the nose. The palate shows good balance and mid-palate weight with beautiful teaberry, cran-orange and toasted brioche flavors that combine marvelously as this finished with a polished salinity. Seriously good now, this will continue to evolve over a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 92

Chateau Climens

A few weeks back I visited the historic Chateau Climens with winemaker/owner, Berenice Lurton, as my gracious guide. Walking the vineyards with her I saw how the small limestone deposits can impart a stony, mineral edge to these brilliant wines. This was prior to bud break at Climens and I happily soaked up every tidbit of information that Berenice provided. Her wines are a true inspiration. We walked into the cellar and I was even shown an area of the chateau used to store an extremely wide range of dried herbs.

Sauternes has been hit hard the past two years as she could not declare a vintage in 2018 due to poor conditions for botrytis. Hail as well was a really big problem in 2018 and then 2017 was a sheer disaster for Climens as they could not produce enough of a wine to declare a vintage. Despite these issues, Berenice was quite optimistic, noting the many great vintages that Sauternes has encountered and her uncanny ability to produce beautiful wines in challenging vintages like 2006. 

I was led into the chateau to have lunch with Berenice and we started with some hors d'oeuvre. We noticed the plate of fossilized seashells that have been sprinkled throughout the vineyard. It is no wonder there is a bright salinity in these beautiful wines. 

We were served the 2015 Chateau Climens which was mind-blowing in its youth and nowhere near ready but showing an unctuous edge with its flamboyant tropical fruit flavor profile. 2015 Climens will be exceedingly long lived. I have not tried the 2014 Chateau Climens in several years, but this was showing as marvelously as the 2015, just a nod towards elegance and refinement with its silky smooth mouthfeel and stronger salinity. I think the 2014 and 2015 will provide a wonderful vintage comparison for decades.

My mouth waters as I write about the 2005 Chateau Climens (WWB, 100) which is truly perfection in a bottle. The combination of weight, elegance, texture and aromatic and flavor range is extraordinary. I slowly savored the 2005 Climens as I felt so grateful and energized to be in the company of one of the great winemakers and wines of the world.

De Ponte Cellars

As we continue our jaunt into Oregon Wine Month we share one of the great boutique producers set in the Dundee Hills. I have long enjoyed tasting at De Ponte, first visiting them in 2007. A laid back, relaxed atmosphere to taste their wines, De Ponte produces a range of great Pinot Noir bottling and one of the best Melon de Bourgogne wines in North America, their ‘D.F.B.’ First started by the Baldwin family in 1999, De Ponte is named after the matriarch of the Baldwin family, Shirley Baldwin.  De Ponte, her maiden name which is of Portuguese origin, honors her father who grew grapes and made his own wine in California's San Joaquin Valley. De Ponte released its first Pinot Noir in 2001, as it leans on the talented Isabelle Dutartre for all winemaking. Dutartre is originally from Burgundy in France and you will find that no surprise when you taste these highly Burgundian wines. Vines planted are set on ancient volcanic soils with clay loam influence. 

I was very impressed with the range of wines that Dutartre has crafted. Look to her refreshing 2017 De Ponte ‘D.F.B.’ Melon de Bourgogne (WWB, 90) which is lithe and highly refreshing, showing a really good texture and poise. I was really impressed with her 2016 De Ponte ‘Lonesome Rock Ranch’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) which has wonderful red fruits and a great sense of place with its volcanic earth influence. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://www.depontecellars.com Here are the exciting new releasees by De Ponte.

2017 De Ponte ‘D.F.B’ Melon de Bourgogne- The ‘D.F.B’ Melon de Bourgogne opens with bright pear, lychee and kumquat aromas with lighter damp earth accents that build in the glass. The palate has good freshness with bright citrus and orchard fruit flavors that connect with the good sense of minerality. Drink 2019-2023- 90

2016 De Ponte ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 De Ponte ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir opens with ripe dark fruits with shades of damp earth and citrus blossom that connect on the nose. The palate is refined with good freshness and verve, delivering dark fruits that connect with lighter earthy undertones. This is a terrific new effort by De Ponte that will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2016 De Ponte ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir has a beautiful bouquet of black truffle shavings, black tea and blackberry jam that all connect in the glass. The silky texture impresses in this elegant Pinot Noir. Black fruits mingle with the damp earth and peat moss tones on the palate. With great structure and weight, this great new effort will cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 92

2016 De Ponte ‘Lonesome Rock Ranch’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 De Ponte ‘Lonesome Rock Ranch’ Pinot Noir shows a wonderful bouquet of volcanic earth, red fruits and citrus rind undertones that persist in the glass. With a brilliant, plush mouthfeel, the wine delivers downright sexy red fruit flavors that mingle with the minerals and earthy undertones. Lithe and outstanding now, this will continue to cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 93

2016 De Ponte ‘Baldwin Estate Reserve’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Baldwin Estate Reserve’ Pinot Noir starts off with a bright bouquet of citrus zest that combines with forest floor and wild blackberry, with wild mushroom undertones. The palate shows good freshness and verve, with medium-bodied red and dark fruit flavors that connect with the lighter orange zest and peat moss accents. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2015 De Ponte ‘Butcher’s Block Reserve’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Butcher’s Block Reserve’ Pinot Noir by De Ponte opens with serious range on the nose from ripe red fruits to citrus blossom and peat moss with wet stone undertones. Silky smooth through the mid-palate, this unveils beautiful red and dark fruits with shades of citrus rind and bulls blood. Complex and delicious, this will continue to evolve well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 93

Interview with Jesus Martinez Bujanda, Founder of Valdemar Estates

One of the great historic houses in Rioja, Jesus Martinez Bujanda Mora had been exploring world wine regions for several years and have landed in the Walla Walla Valley. A former graduate of the University of Washington, Jesus sought a location in the Walla Walla Valley and has build a beautiful new winery which opened last weekend. I recently had the chance to sit down with Jesus and talk about his exciting new project. He shared his insights into starting this exciting new winery and the impact it brings to the Walla Walla Valley. I think you will very much enjoy hearing his story in wine. Here is my exclusive interview with Jesus Martinez Bujanda Mora, founder of Valdemar Estates.

WWB How did you decide to start Valdemar Estates?

JM: After a few years looking for a project in Spain we realized we were not excited about it anymore and we decided to look outside of Spain for something more unique, something that could turn into an important milestone in our family. I was very attracted by the USA and WA in particular as I am former University of Washington student so I brought my father and sister here and we all fall in love of WA and Walla Walla.

WWB: I have been very impressed with your Bodega Valdemar ‘Reserva’ Rioja bottlings which offer a ton of value. Do you plan to offer such great values at Valdemar Estates? How challenging is it for you to build your wine port at Valdemar Estates?

JM: Yes of course we will offer our Rioja wines in our winery in Walla Walla. In order to be able to sell our Rioja wines we had to create a restaurant in our winery because otherwise we were only able to sell the wines produced at our Walla Walla winery.

To be honest, when we started this project I would never told you that we were going to do a restaurant.. but I think we turned it into a great opportunity to offer a unique experience in the Valley. We are not a full restaurant but we will offer a very exciting tapas menu that will enhance our local and our Rioja wines.

WWB: How different do you find Walla Walla to be from La Rioja?

Quite different really. After 130 years in Rioja, coming here to learn about this amazing region is very exciting and refreshing for us. I think would not make sense to come here and try to do everything as we do in Rioja, we have to find our style in Washington and that is going to be a learning curve. But that is what makes this project so exciting for us.

WWB: Are you getting a sense of what varietals you feel grow best in the Walla Walla Valley? Why do you like about the growing region in Walla Walla?

JM: The diversity of “terroirs” you can find in Walla Walla is amazing and we are already invested in two of the most exciting ones (in our opinion of course): The Rocks and The North Fork.

Regarding grapes we are particularly attracted by Syrah and Grenache but we will do also Cabernet, Chardonnay, Viognier and others. Another thing that we are going try is to bring cuttings from ancient Rioja grapes such as Maturana and for that we are now about to sign an agreement with the WSU.

WWB: When you are not enjoying your Valdemar wines what are some of your favorite wines and wine producers of the world? What is your cellar like?

JM: Well my cellar was “reset” last year when I moved to Walla Walla so I don’t have much old wine now. I don’t drink my own wines very often at home as I try to learn as much as possible about other wines and other regions.

Apart from Rioja and Washington, some of my favorite regions are Alsace, Loire and Galicia (specially Godello) for whites and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Tuscany and Bierzo for reds.

Chateau Pape Clement

One of the famed white wines of the world, Chateau Pape Clement is one of the few left bank wineries in Bordeaux that has made an international reputation for their stunning Bordeaux Blanc.There are historical records of Chateau Pape Clement the harvest taking place in 1252  as this historic winery is named after the Archbishop of Bordeaux, Bertrand de Got, who was named Pope in 1305 under the name of Clement V. Thus, Pape Clement was named. Pape Clement has the oldest estate vineyard planted in this region, in Pessac, just southwest of Bordeaux.

Fast forward several centuries, the vineyard remained owned by archbishops of Bordeaux until the French Revolution which nationalized this property. The Revolution led to a succession of owners who developed the property commercially and by the mid-19th century Pape Clement was considered to be second only to Haut-Brion in quality in the region. Following the death of Paul Montagne at 94, his son Léo Montagne has joint-ownership of the estate, and they partnered with Bernard Magrez, as they employ Michel Rolland as consulting winemaker. 

I have long admired the white wines of Chateau Pape Clement and there is just something so striking about them. Whether it is the salinity, the brilliant tension or viscosity created in the wines, they are truly some of the best Bordeaux Blancs in the world. The blending for these wines are typically equal parts Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, with very small portions of Muscadelle. Obviously this all depends on the vintage.

A few weeks back I visited this famed chateau and sat for a stunning retrospective of Chateau Pape Clement Blanc. One common thread was how incredibly well the wine performed even in the most challenging of vintages. For instance, I have been quite underwhelmed with the quality of Bordeaux wines produced in 2008 but the 2008 Chateau Pape Clement Blanc (WWB, 97) is truly one of the great wines of the vintage and is absolutely scintillating right now with its incredible viscosity, and gobs of mouth-watering acidity. For those who prefer the intense, massive side of Bordeaux Blanc, this is right up your alley. Even better was the 2015 Chateau Pape Clement Blanc (WWB, 98) which is truly one of the finest wines from Bordeaux I have sampled in the past year. The purity of this wine is mesmerizing as this also displays an unctuous texture with incredible viscosity and minerality. Learn more about these sensational white Bordeaux wines at http://www.bernard-magrez.com/en/wines/chateau-pape-clement Here are the brilliant Chateau Pape Clement Blanc wines. 

2006 Chateau Pape Clement Blanc- The 2006 Chateau Pape Clement Blanc has aged marvelously at the thirteen year mark. The wine takes on wonderful earthy aromas with black truffle, crushed wet stone and kumquat with lighter citrus tones. The aromatic range is insanely good and brings you back to the glass for more. The palate has wonderful richness and intensity with starfruit, brandy soaked pear and Challah bread flavors with wild mushroom undertones. This stunning wine is remarkably still an infant and has an exceedingly long life ahead of it. Drink 2019-2040- 95

2008 Chateau Pape Clement Blanc- The 2008 Chateau Pape Clement Blanc is a stunning aged white Bordeaux that is absolutely singing at its 11 year range. The powerful nose overwhelms you ranging from deep tropical fruits with white truffle and leather undertones. With beautiful mouth-watering acidity, the palate delights the senses, showing serious weight that impresses. White peach, pink grapefruit and bright brioche flavors all energize you. Seductive and rich, this stunning wine is just nearing being ready — and has decades left. Drink 2019-2040- 97

2015 Chateau Pape Clement Blanc- The 2015 Chateau Pape Clement Blanc is one of the first wines that I have sampled from Bordeaux over the past year. The simply captivating nose  takes on heavenly aromas of honeysuckle, apricot and white flowers that connect with the beautiful earthy tones. The aromatic range here is really gratifying. The palate has incredible weight but is highly lifted with bright acidity. Kumquat and lemon zest with brioche, wet stone and Japanese pear flavors. Bright and simply seductive, this is a stunning new white wine that needs time but will reward you in a decade. Try to give this at least five years before you visit it again. Drink 2025-2050- 98

2015 Chateau Pape Clement Rouge- The 2015 Chateau Pape Clement red wine is a stunning new release that has massive potential. On the nose this beautiful wine takes on intense aromas of red currant with blackberry cordial, smoke and red bell pepper. The palate is very rich and decadent with great freshness and intensity. Red bell pepper, cassis and leather flavors combine with earthy undertones on the palate. Rich and beautifully layered, this elegant wine will cellar well for the next several decades. Drink 2019-2039- 95