Sin Qua Non

One of the world’s iconic wineries, Sin Qua Non started with an incredible vision with their first release in 1994 as Manfred Krankl’s brainchild remains one of the most famed producers not only in the United States, but across the globe. Born in Austria, Manfred Krankl studied at the Hotel School in Gmunden, Austria and eventually moved to Los Angeles, California where he met his wife, Elaine. In 1989 Manfred became the wine director at Campanile and slowly began learning about winemaking. He first made wine from the 1990 vintage. He would later partner with wine legend John Alban until releasing his first wine, ‘The Queen of Spades’ in 1994 which was met with incredible critical acclaim.

Manfred and his wife now own 30 acres of estate vineyards and produce a massive range of wines, from Roussanne to Syrah to stunning dessert wines. Over the past year I have had ai chance to sit with several of these iconic wines (some enjoyed without tasting notes) and, like many others in the wine community, I am consistently amazed with the quality of the wines, regardless of vintage. A friend recently had me try the 2015 Sin Qua Non ‘Trouver l’arene’ Syrah (WWB, 99) which is up there with the best Syrah that I have ever had from this region. Massive, dense and seductive, this incredible wine is intense yet has incredible poise despite the heat of the vintage. Learn more about these very special wines at  https://www.sinequanon.com Here are some of the Sin Qua Non wines that I have recently sampled.

2015 Sin Qua Non ‘Trouver l’arene’ Syrah- The stunning, profound and downright decadent ‘Trouver l’arene’ Syrah is an opulent blend of 80.5% Syrah, with 7% Petite Syrah, 7% Mourvèdre, 2% Grenache and 3.5% Viognier, which were sourced from their estate vineyards. The wine was aged in both neutral and new French oak for 22 months prior to bottling. On the nose this exudes class with sagebrush accents that collide with the blueberry pie, blackberry cordial and potpourri aromatics that all build steam in the glass. The texture to this wine exudes class. Ripe black cherry syrup, Turkish coffee, tar and leather with shades of sweetened licorice all impress on the palate. While a delight to savor in its youth, this stunning wine will evolve well over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2019-2035- 99

2013 Sin Qua Non ‘Female’ Grenache- The 2013 Sin Qua Non ‘Female’ Grenache is sinfully good following a little time in the bottle. The wine has 19% Syrah blended in with just a touch of Mourvedre, as the ‘Female’ was largely sourced from their Eleven Confessions estate vineyard, located in Sta. Rita Hills AVA. On the nose there is wonderful underbrush undertones that collide with chocolate covered raspberry and shades of pomegranate puree that all continue to impress in the glass. The palate is silky smooth, delivering a soft and satisfying mouthfeel. Red raspberry cordial, lavender, red cherry pie and exotic spices all build momentum on the palate. A delight to savor in its youth, this beautiful wine will cellar well for decades. Drink 2019-2035- 97

2006 Sin Qua Non ‘Mr. K Nobleman’ Chardonnay Dessert Wine (.375 L)- The ‘Mr. K Nobleman’ Chardonnay weighs in at a whopping 200 grams per liter of sugar. Once aroused, the wine slowly unveils intense tropical fruit aromatics that mingle with shades of vanilla creme brûlée and toffee. Unctuous and soft, the wine shows off its unctuous, fleshy texture. The ‘Mr. K Nobleman’ is quite bright once on the mouth, with candied ginger, apricot jelly and shades of honeyed banana and ripe pineapple accents here. Am I really tasting Chardonnay? This unique and vibrant wine still has many years left in the bottle but is fantastic at the thirteen year mark. Drink 2019-2035- 95

St. Innocent

Right as IPNC kicks off in style, we wanted to share one of the outstanding Oregon producers of white wines and well as Pinot Noir. A man not needing any introduction, Mark Vlossak is the mastermind behind St. Innocent wines. I am always blown away with the pricing of his wines, which are probably lower than they should be. Mark’s masterful approach to white wines in particular amazes me every year. These wines are restrained, showing wonderful brightness and tension, and display a wonderfully fat texture, regardless of vintage. Formerly the winemaker for Panther Creek, Mark has a longstanding history in the Oregon wine industry as the first single vineyard Pinot Noir made by Mark dates back to 1989 from the O’Connor vineyard. In 2006 Mark set up his winery at that same site of his first single vineyard wine, which is now named the Zenith Vineyard. Mark’s Pinots typically have a wonderful combination of elegance and richness as well as earthy terroir. 

I was blown away wit his 2017 St. Innocent ‘Vitae Springs Vineyard’ Pinot Gris (WWB, 94) which his one of the great Pinot Gris wines made in Oregon.  is jam-packed full of fruit and has lovely weight and minerality. Similarly excellent is the 2015 St. Innocent ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 93) displaying dazzling tension and a silky texture. Learn more about these stunning wines at https://stinnocentwine.com Here are the great new releases by St. Innocent. 

2016 St. Innocent ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2016 ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ is another terrific release from the talented Mark Vlossak of St. Innocent. The nose shows gorgeous wet stone character with wild mushroom, green apple and kumquat character that fill the nose. The palate has a wonderfully silky texture and a soft mouthfeel that entices. Vanilla cream, ripe pear, and a touch of toasty brioche with ripe apricot complete this simply gorgeous new Chardonnay. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2017 St. Innocent ‘Vitae Springs’ Pinot Gris- One of the great Pinot Gris bottling in Oregon, the 2017 ‘Vitae Springs’ Pinot Gris by St. Innocent is a dazzling new release. On the nose this shows really good range from sourdough bread to ripe Japanese pear to grassy tones that all fill the bouquet. The palate shows incredible texture and tension, with gobs of mouth-watering acidity that excite. Harmonious throughout with ripe pear, starfruit and brioche flavors, this is a complete wine that is one of the best of its kind that I have ever sampled. Simply put, this wine is a masterpiece. Drink 2019-2025- 94

2017 St. Innocent ‘Zenith Vineyard’ Auxerrois- One of the few Auxerrois bottling in Oregon, this one is absolutely sensational. There are light flinty tones to this wine that connect with the yeasty and melon aromatics that all combine nicely in the glass. The palate is refreshing and highly satisfying with its lovely texture and tension. Kumquat, wet stone and lighter earthy tones round out the palate, showing a bright minerality. Drink 2019-2024- 91

2017 St. Innocent ‘Villages Cuvee’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from a host of Willamette Valley vineyards, the ‘Villages Cuvee’ starts off with aromas of raspberry torte, ripe cranberry and citrus rind tones that all gather in the glass. The palate has good brightness and ripe red fruits with citrus rind tones and lighter earthy accents. Drink 2019-2024- 91

2015 St. Innocent ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2015 ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is another stunning new bottling from the talented Mark Vlossak. On the nose this exudes class with teaberry, cherry preserves, cigar box and wild mushroom that all add wonderful complexity to the wine. The wine unveils a sumptuous mouthfeel and a dazzling minerality on the mid-palate, unveiling bright citrus rind with pomegranate seed and shades of white truffle. Highly complex and thrilling in the glass, this elegant and seamless wine will cellar well over the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2019-2035- 94

2016 St. Innocent ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The gorgeous new 2016 ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir shows a marvelous combination of richness and astringency from this warm vintage in the Willamette Valley. On the nose this begins with aromatics reminiscent of black tea, peat moss, wild blackberry and cran-orange, providing some serious range aromatically. The mouthfeel entices as black and red fruits dance with wet stone and earthy tones on the palate. Seriously good now this stunning new Pinot Noir will continue to evolve for the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2019-2035- 93

VIADER

One of the great historic Napa wineries, VIADER is the brainchild of Delia Viader, who took the leap of faith years ago to plant grapes in uncharted waters in Napa Valley. For years Delia only made one wine, a Bordeaux style blend, since 1986. Holding a PhD from Sorbonne University in Paris, founding winemaker Delia Viader now collaborates with her son, Alan, to make their wines which are entirely sourced from their estate vineyard on Howell Mountain. A remarkable story, Delia stated Viader while raising four children on her own. Delia has achieved incredible success since starting in the mid-80s as she models her style of wine towards the great wines of Bordeaux, focusing on balance rather than primary fruit qualities. I have been enchanted with these wines and have been fortunate enough to try many going back to the 1990s. 

Alan Viader has served as vineyard manager since 2002 while studying winemaking at UC Davis. He has been lead winemaker at VIADER since 2006 and works with Delia on all wines. Alan recently started making a new wine, called the VIADER ‘Black Label’ Red Wine, which has Syrah blend into Bordeaux varietals. I was absolutely blown away with their 2016 VIADER ‘Black Label’ Red Wine (WWB, 96), which has incredible richness and a silky texture that is pure Napa. I absolutely adore the mountain fruit in this wine which imparts incredible range and terroir. This new wine will be a resounding success for the winery. Learn more about this storied Napa winery at https://viader.com

2016 VIADER ‘Black Label’ Red Wine- The 2016 VIADER ‘Black Label’ Red Wine is a simply magical new wine by the talented winemaking team of Delia and Alan Viader. A gorgeous blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 26% Syrah, 14% Malbec and 3% Cabernet Franc which was barrel selected all from the VIADER Howell Mountain estate. Needing more than an hour in the decanter to fully arouse, the wine awakens to compelling aromatics of exotic spices, Earl Grey tea, mocha and milk chocolate with wild blackberry cobbler rounding out this expressive nose. The mouthfeel is plush and decadent, unveiling a downright sexy texture that satisfies. Creme de cassis, Asian spices, sweet pipe tobacco, leather and copious dark fruits all enter the fray on the palate. This is a polished, pensive wine that is meant to savor. Seriously good in its youth, this beautiful wine will evolve well over the next two decades. Drink 2020-2040- 96

Liquid Farm

I first met Liquid Farm founder Jeff Nelson many years ago at at wine event. In 2011 I had the chance to visit the winery in Santa Barbara and do some barrel tasting with him. Jeff is an unassuming, down to earth guy that is passionate about old world wines. Jeff formerly worked many years for top Champagne houses and finally got the nerve to start his own winery, taking a Burgundian approach to new world Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Tasting with him I was overjoyed with the result which were highly bright Chardonnays and higher acid, yet earthy Pinot Noirs. I have since visited his winery several times and I would say that Liquid Farm is a must-stop for any serious lover of Santa Barbara County wines. Originally Jeff only wanted to make Chardonnay but he has focused some of his attention to crafting great Pinot Noir as well.

The wines are sourced from some of the most esteemed vineyards throughout the county. Liquid Farm has gained a nationwide reputation for top notch Rose. His 2018 Liquid Farm Rose (WWB, 92) is a stunning example of California Rose, showing incredible poise, texture and range. Even better was the 2017 Liquid Farm ‘White Hill’ Chardonnay (WWB, 94) which is Santa Barbara Chardonnay at its finest with the wine’s incredible brightness and salinity. This is truly one for the cellar. Learn more about this great boutique Santa Barbara County winer at http://www.liquidfarm.com/ Here are the beautiful new wines by Liquid Farm. 

2018 Liquid Farm Rose- Sourced from the esteemed Vogelzang Vineyard in the Happy Canyon AVA, the Mourvedre based (95%) 2018 Liquid Farm Rose shows smoky undertones that collide with bright citrus zest and ripe red raspberry on this expressive nose. The gorgeous texture entices as the wine slowly unveils red cherry starburst candy, watermelon, guava and shades of white pepper with gobs of minerals on the palate. While a delight to savor in its youth, this brilliant new Rose will cellar well for at least another five years. Drink 2019-2023- 92

2017 Liquid Farm ‘White Hill’ Chardonnay- The ‘White Hill’ Chardonnay is sourced from the Clos Pepe, La Riconada, Bentrock, and Kessler-Haak Vineyards as this wine has been crafted since the 2009 vintage. Smoky, stony and showing a striking salinity on the nose, the wine unveils a beautiful, soft texture that entices. The sense of freshness and bright minerality produces gobs of mouth-watering acidity on the palate. Bright orchard fruits mingle with lemon oil, and shades of smoky tones with wild mushroom on this highly complex palate. Impossible to resist right now, this beautiful Chardonnay will evolve well for the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 94

2017 Liquid Farm ‘Golden Slope’ Chardonnay- The ‘Golden Slope’ Chardonnay is an intense and stunning new bottling from the talented Liquid Farm winemaking team. Sourced from the Clos Pepe, Ritas Crown, Bentrock, La Riconada, Kessler-Haak and Zotovich Vineyards, the wine evokes rich saline soaked pear, macadamia nut and shades of smoke and wild mushroom that all are beautifully woven into the glass. The palate is rich and gratifying with a silky mouthfeel. Ripe Japanese pear, kumquat, damp earth and minerals all collide on this enticing palate. While seductive and rich in its youth, this stunning new Chardonnay will pick up lovely tertiary notes for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2017 Liquid Farm ‘SBC’ Pinot Noir- The ‘SBC’ is sourced from a collection of fantastic vineyards throughout Santa Barbara County. On the nose this evokes teaberry with bright cranberry with smoky and earthy undertones that all build momentum on the nose. The silky mouthfeel glides across the mid-palate, delivering medium bodied red cherry, red raspberry, orange zest, guava and wild mushroom flavors. Texturally beautiful, and showing good range, this excellent new wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 92

Hazelfern Cellars

One of the exciting boutique producers of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir out of Oregon, Hazelfern Cellars was founded recently by Bryan and Laura Liang. Bryan and Laura have been making wine since 2006 but in 2018 Bryan left his corporate job to focus on winemaking and operations at Hazelfern, located in Newberg, Oregon. Intriguingly, a great deal of Bryan and Laura's wine education was acquired watching YouTube videos on winemaking. Winemaking in their Portland basement wasn’t the easiest of tasks but over time Bryan and Laura saw their winemaking style evolve.

Admittedly, I had heard about these wines but the most recent set of releases were the first that I had tried from Hazelfern. I was more than impressed with what Bryan and Laura are doing with the wines. These are wines that impart wonderful texture and mouthfeel. The 2017 Hazelfern ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay is a simply gorgeous effort that has wonderful range and a soft mouthfeel. The wine shows the great cellaring potential for this exciting new vintage in the Willamette Valley. Even better was the 2017 Hazelfern ‘Slingshot Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) which has beautiful red fruits and citrus accents with great terroir. Learn more about this exciting new winery at https://www.hazelfern.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Hazelfern.

2017 Hazelfern ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay- The 2017 Hazelfern Chardonnay was aged for 11 months in 100% new French oak prior to bottling. On the nose this takes on bright lemon zest and brioche with wild mushroom aromas that build in the glass. The palate shows off a rather opulent mouthfeel, delivering ripe orchard and tropical fruits with wet stone and earthy undertones. Delightful to savor now, this fantastic effort will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2017 Hazelfern ‘Ana Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Ana Vineyard located the Dundee Hills, this Pinot Noir was aged in 100% French oak for twelve months prior to bottling. The nose shows remarkably deep red fruits along with blood orange and peat moss tones that add to the aromatic expression. The palate reveals a silky texture and mouthfeel, unveiling cranberries, cherries, pipe tobacco and leather flavors that collide with the bright citrus rind and wet stone character. Showing excellent range, this delicious wine should continue to evolve over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2032- 93

2017 Hazelfern ‘Robinson Family Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 Robinson Family Vineyard Pinot Noir shows enticing guava and blood orange tones on the nose. Round and generous on the mouth, the wine shows off ripe red cherry candy, cran-pomegrnate and lighter earthy tones on the palate. This is another fantastic new Pinot Noir by Hazelfern that will cellar well over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2017 Hazelfern ‘Slingshot Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The Sivershot Vineyard is located in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. The 2017 Pinot Noir was aged for twelve months in 100% new French oak prior to bottling. On the nose this exudes class with nuances of saline drenched volcanic earth that sits alongside the citrus rind and red fruit aromatics. The palate delivers a lovely combination of weight and mouth-watering acidity, as flavors of red fruits dance with blood orange and volcanic earthy undertones. Seductive and showing serious range, this beautiful wine should go on to cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2032- 93

Quilceda Creek Vertical Tasting

One of the famed world producers of Cabernet Sauvignon, Quilceda Creek, crafts brilliant, age-worthy wines that drink marvelously in their youth but also show massive cellaring potential. I was first exposed to the wines of Quilceda Creek in the late 1990s and I have been amazed with how these wines age, regardless of vintage. Only recently I enjoyed the 1999 Quilceda Creek with friends and was moved by its complexity and Bordelaise feel. 

It had been quite some time since I had sat for a proper vertical tasting of Quilceda Creek and I was due a revisit of some of the great wines of the 2000s. Our tasting was vintages 2004-2010, with the one cold vintage being 2010 and the rest of vintages being warm. Superstar Paul Golitzin made some magical wines and we were absolutely blown away with the 2004 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 99) which is an absolutely decadent wine that is drinking marvelously at this fifteen year mark. This wine had quite pronounced blue fruits whereas many other vintages did not offer that same blueberry note. Just as good was the 2006 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 99) which is even more massive and has more tertiary notes of tar and earthy tones that make this absolutely impossible to resist. One thing is quite evident — the wines of Quilceda Creek are a revelation after some time in the bottle. While patience with these wines might be a challenge, I would encourage any serious collector of Washington wine to keep a few in the cellar for ten years to revisit these gorgeous Cabernets. Learn more about these very special wines at quilcedacreek.com Here are my tasting notes for our vertical tasting of Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon.

2004 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2004 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon is a scintillating wine that is showing marvelously at this juncture. The nose is gorgeous and intense right out of the gate with bright red and dark fruits with chocolate, sagebrush, cherry tomato and blueberry compote that all collide in the glass. Lighter herbal tones come into play after the bottle has been opened more than two hours. The palate takes on an incredible elegance and silky mouthfeel. While obviously rich, this is quite well-balanced. The texture gives the err of decadence. With refined tannins, the wine has tremendous richness, yet relies on great finesse with blueberry cordial, black tea, exotic spices and mocha flavors. The exceedingly long finish lingers in this exciting fifteen year old Cabernet. This incredible wine is peaking now so enjoy it over the next five years as there is no reason to wait on this heavyhitter. Drink 2019-2023- 99

2005 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2005 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon is a monumental effort from this warm vintage in Washington. Right away this brilliant wine shows intense aromatics right away as this flamboyant Cabernet evokes creosote, Turkish coffee, blackberry pie, anise and creme de cassis that all build on this gorgeous nose. The palate is silky smooth with refined tannins as the wine unveils blackberry cordial, smoke, leather, black tea, and mocha flavors that build momentum. While marvelous now, this will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2019-2029- 98

2006 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon- This warm vintage Cabernet Sauvignon by Quilceda Creek is a refined wine that is aging gracefully at the thirteen year mark. On the nose this takes on lovely red bell pepper with black fruits, espresso bean, sagebrush and Asian spices with a touch of damp earth. The complex and downright gorgeous nose brings you back to the glass for more pleasure. The mouthfeel and texture to the wine is refined, elegant and downright silky. The palate shows rich creme de cassis, anise, tar, blackberry compote and shades of black raspberry cordial and light vegetal undertones. Expressive, exotic and the best of its kind, this gorgeous wine flirts with perfection. The exceedingly long finish lingers long. Enjoy this stunning wine over the next eight years. Drink 2019-2027- 99

2007 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2007 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon is a dazzling wine from this stunning vintage in the Columbia Valley. The richness and intensity literally leaps right out off the glass with Turkish coffee, exotic spices, blueberry compote, tar roasted dates and creme de cassis notes that give this wine a hedonistic edge on the nose. The palate is dazzling with a bright sense of minerality with great richness and tension with light tannins that frame the wine. There is a seamless quality to this wine as it gracefully glides across the mid-palate. Dense and decadent dark fruits with combine with roasted figs, chocolate and shades of sagebrush that all brilliantly combine on the palate. While gorgeous now, this has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2019-2029- 99

2008 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2008 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon is a powerful and hedonistic wine that is showing marvelously at this juncture. The nose shows gorgeous blueberry compote with red bell pepper, red rose petal, exotic spice, with black tea and blackberry cordial flavors that all combine brilliantly in the glass. The palate is decadent and highly refined, showing both incredible poise and tension. Like the ’07 the ’08 effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Dark plum, blueberry compote, Turkish coffee, and Earl Grey tea with Asian spice flavors all marvelously combine on the palate. Layered and complex, this is heaven in a bottle. Enjoy this fantastic bottling one the next seven to ten years. Drink 2019-2029- 99

2009 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2009 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning wine that is drinking marvelously at one decade of age. The nose is quite evocative with red bell pepper and exotic spices that combine with blueberry cordial and espresso bean notes that all shine brightly in the glass. The palate has incredible decadence, taking on a hedonistic bent. Black tea, blueberry pie, blackberry pie, and shades of wild huckleberry that give this round wine a wonderful sense of softness and plush texture. Given more than an hour of air this continues to evolve gracefully. Outstanding now, this beautiful wine will continue to evolve well over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 98

2010 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon- This cold vintage bottling is one of the wines of the vintage. Showing more herbal tones fill the nose the as wine mingles with tar and shades of fresh blueberry and creosote tones that all build in the glass. The palate is highly refined and shows a Bordealaise character, unveiling Earl Grey tea, wild blackberry and Black Forest cake that all build momentum on the palate. Showing good freshness and poise, this has another decade ahead of it. But why wait? Drink 2019-2029- 94

Open Claim Vineyards

There are so many wonderful boutique Oregon producers that admittedly it is sometimes difficult to keep track of the movement. I have had the chance to review the last two sets of releases from Open Claim Vineyards, a new Oregon winery that specializes in high quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Founded by Marnie and Brett Wall, Open Claim Vineyards first released their wine with the 2014 vintage. These are complex, rich and captivating wines that have tons of cellaring potential.

The more Oregon wines I review I am becoming increasing convinced that nearly everything that Tony Rynders touches turns to gold. One of the eminent winemakers in the Pacific Northwest, Tony not only makes his wines under his Tendril label but consults for a plethora of great Oregon producers. The 2016 Open Claim ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 94) is dense and highly complex, showing Burgundian earthy tones and tons of red fruits. This gorgeous effort is one for any serious collector of Oregon Pinot Noir. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.openclaimvineyards.com/ Here are the brilliant 2016 releases by Open Claim. 

2016 Open Claim ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay- The 2016 Open Claim ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay is another fantastic release by the talented Tony Rynders. The wine was aged for sixteen months in 33% new French oak prior to bottling. The nose shows gorgeous Meyer lemon zest with toasted brioche and hazelnuts. The palate shows a good combination of richness and freshness with a marvelous texture. Vanilla cream, lemon oil, honeydew melon and Marcona almond flavors all come together to create some beautiful complexity. Refined and rich, this is a fantastic new bottling that will cellar well for the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2016 Open Claim ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 Open Claim ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir was aged for sixteen months in 40% new French oak prior to bottling. The nose here is gorgeous with red cherry compote, smoke, black truffle crudo, citrus rind and peat moss that all come together and build in the. glass. The palate is plush, revealing a gorgeous texture. Red cherry candy, guava puree, red currant and blood orange zest flavors all combine to show some serious range. This is a simply stunning new bottling by superstar winemaker Tony Rynders that will cellar well for the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2019-2035- 94

The Walls

A partnership between software executive Mike Martin and winemaker Ali Mayfield, The Walls is a relatively new winery that focuses on intriguing and sometimes unusual red and white wines sourced from great vineyard sites throughout the state. Humorously named after a Walla Walla nickname for the local Washington State Penitentiary, The Walls imparts aptly playful names for their wines, like the ‘Concrete Mama’ referring to both the storage of the wine along with the housing for penitentiary inmates.  

Ali Mayfield has a great resume, previously worked at illustrious wineries Corliss Estates and Long Shadows. In 2013 she made 30 barrels of her very own wine and was soon connected with Martin, who was working as a Microsoft attorney and was looking into potentially starting his own winery. Only recently The Walls has opened their own winery on Pine St. in downtown Walla Walla. A few weeks back I visited the winery and tasted with Ali, talking shop and taking in this exciting new facility and beautiful new wines. One of the great Rose wines made in the state, the 2018 The Walls ‘Cruel Summer’ Rose (WWB, 91) is the best rendition of this wine since its inception, with its wonderful mouthfeel and outstanding flavor and aromatic range. I absolutely loved the new 2016 The Walls ‘Concrete Mama’ Syrah (WWB, 93) which has wonderful Umami and red fruit flavors, with a soft mouthfeel that is wonderfully integrated. Learn more about these great wines at https://www.thewallsvineyards.com Here are the new releases by The Walls.

2018 The Walls ‘Cruel Summer’ Rose- The 2018 ‘Cruel Summer’ Rose is a fabulous effort by the talented Ali Mayfield. On the nose this yields nice complexity with hints of blood orange that line bright red fruits with wet stone undertones. The palate shows a silky mouthfeel, unveiling bright kiwi, red raspberry puree and cran-pomegranate flavors that combine with a wonderful texture and sense of minerality. Drink 2019-2023- 91

2016 The Walls ‘Les Jeunes Vignes’ Chardonnay- Sourced from younger vines from the Columbia Valley, this opens with a beautiful bouquet of ripe honeydew melon with shades of banana and wild mushroom that all develop nicely in the glass. The soft mouthfeel is really nice, as is the bright citrus fruits that mingle with lemon infused vanilla cream. Bright and showing good length, this excellent new Chardonnay will cellar well over the next five to seven years. Drink 2019-2024- 91

2016 The Walls ‘Mahana’ Red Wine- This is a blend of Syrah and Grenache with a small portion of Viognier which is co-fermented. The wine has seriously range on the nose with wonderful stony character and green olive tapenade with bacon fat that all build on the nose. The silky texture drives this wine as bulls blood, red cheerier compote and shades of wild mushroom and Umami flavors all collide on the palate. This is a seriously good effort by the talented Ali Mayfield. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2016 The Walls ‘Concrete Mama’ Syrah- The wine is sourced from the River Rock Vineyard and has 5% Viognier which has been co-fermented with Tablas Creek clone Syrah. The nose is highly complex with Umami, red cherry compote, horse manure and shades of bulls blood that all build on the nose. The mouthfeel and texture is seriously good with Hoisin sauce, blood orange and shades of wild blackberry with cran-pomegranate that all connect energy on the palate. While delightful in its youth, this will evolve well over the next decade., Drink 20`19-12029- 93

Corliss Estates

Friends, it has been far too long since I have shared my thoughts on this great Walla Walla winery. Corliss Estates is a stunning facility that focuses on Bordeaux varietals as they tend to hold their wines considerably longer than most wineries. Founded by Michael and LauriCorliss, in 1999, Corliss has been met with some serious critical acclaim since their first release in 2008. I have been blown away with how some of these wines have aged, as I recently enjoyed the 2008 Corliss Estates Red Wine which was absolutely singing.  

Originally from Australia, head winemaker Andrew Trio is an uber-talented man who has been at the helm and has a storied history in wine previously working throughout Australia, as well as New Zealand, California and Europe. He also has eminent winemaking consultant Philippe Melka by his side, a man who needs no introduction. The team crafts some stunning wines that are big, bold and well-balanced. For those who are not impressed by rich Washington red wines, look elsewhere. The textural elements to these red wines are just gorgeous. The wines that I reviewed are future release wines that are simply gorgeous across the board. The 2014 Corliss Estates Red Wine (WWB, 94) is dense, chewy and will have decades in the cellar. Just as good (and even more massive) is the 2014 Corliss Estates Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 94) is a monster of a wine that delivers intense dark fruits and a silky texture. Learn more about these beautiful pre-release wines at http://corlissestates.com Here are the great new release wines from Corliss Estates.

2015 Corliss Estates Syrah (Spring 2020 release)- The 2015 Corliss Syrah is a seriously good effort from a somewhat challenging vintage for red wines in Washington State. Aged in French oak puncheons (35%) for 26 months prior to bottling, this wine exudes class. On the nose this takes on intense blue and dark fruit aromatics with exotic spices and chocolate that round out this expressive profile. The palate shows a soft, pillowy texture, engaging ripe dark berries, mocha, tar and roasted dates that combine with a good sense of freshness. This is showing marvelously at this stage and will cellar well for another decade or more. Drink 2020-2029- 93

2014 Corliss Estates Red Wine (Fall 2019 release)- A combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, the 2014 Corliss Red Wine was aged in 65% new French oak for 28 months prior to bottling. Needing a one hour decant to fully express itself, the wine slowly unveils ripe blueberry compote, sagebrush, Turkish coffee and shades of black licorice candy that all meld together in the glass. The palate is silky smooth and decadent, while also elegant. With a soft mouthfeel, this gracefully glides across the mid-palate revealing copious dark and blue fruit flavors with chocolate covered espresso bean. Marvelous now, this beautiful red blend will have a long life in the cellar. Drink 2020-2038- 94

2014 Corliss Estates Cabernet Sauvignon (Fall 2019 release)- Sourced from the Columbia Valley, the 2014 Corliss Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in 70% new French oak for 28 months prior to bottling. The nose is quite expressive with red bell pepper, mocha, anise and creme de cassis aromatics that all combine brilliantly once in the glass. The palate is exceedingly smooth, showing off its silky texture. Ripe blackberry compote, leather, anise and Black Forest cake flavors all mingle brilliantly together on the palate. While a delight to savor in its youth, this will have an exceedingly long life in the cellar. Drink 2020-2040- 94

Smak Wines

Right in the heat of Rose season, we bring you one of the very cool and unique wineries of Washington that focuses on crafting limited production Rose. Fiona Mak is a graduate of Syracuse University’s hospitality management program. Originally from Hong Kong, Fiona had a formidable career in the restaurant industry, making a host of great spots like Morimoto in Philadelphia, Haru Sushi in New York, and Quality Meats, in Manhattan. Fiona is also a certified sommelier through the Court of Master Sommelier. 

In 2013 she traveled across country to begin her wine education at the Walla Walla Community College Enology and Viticulture program. She then was employed as a lab manager at Artifex Wine Company. Her wines are inspired by her travels to Provence and I can see that feeling of delicacy and nuance in each bottle. Rose is quite difficult to make well and I was very impressed with her latest set of releases. Her 2018 SMAK Wines ‘Summer’ Rose (WWB, 90) is wonderfully fresh and linear, with bright lip-smacking acidity. This is hard to resist stuff on a hot summer day. I also really enjoyed her 2018 SMAK Wines ‘Fall/Winter’ Rose (WWB, 90) which continues the brightness but shows more earthy undertones. Learn more about this great new winery at https://www.smakwines.com Here are the great new releases by SMAK Wines.

2018 SMAK Wines ‘Spring’ Rose- The ‘Spring’ Rose is made from Sangiovese grapes grown in the Walla Walla Valley. The nose is very delicate with red fruits and gooseberry tones that meld in the glass. The palate shows a ton of brightness and intense acidity, but comes off a touch sour in the balance. This is pretty novel, intriguing stuff. Drink 2019-2022- 89

2018 SMAK Wines ‘Summer’ Rose- Made from Pinot Gris grapes sourced from the Walla Walla Valley, this Rose opens with a bouquet of bright pear, lemon blossom and shades of red raspberry that collide in the glass. The palate shows bright acidity with very linear green apple and kiwi flavors. The finish is very long and adds to the enjoyment. While this may come off a bit lean, the overall picture is very nice. Drink 2019-2022- 90

2018 SMAK Wines ‘Fall/Winter’ Rose- The ‘Fall/Winter’ Rose by SMAK and winemaker Fiona May is sourced from Columbia Valley Sourced Syrah. The wine opens with hints of wild mushroom that combine with delicate red fruits on the nose. The texture entices, as does the bright acidity to the wine as very light red fruits dance with minerals. The finish is delightful. Drink 2019-2022- 90

Interview with Victor de la Luz, Winemaker at Gordon Estate and De La Luz Wines

Interview with Victor de la Luz, Winemaker at Gordon Estates and De La Luz Wines

As promised, we deliver part two of our winery/winemaker feature. A great face of Washington wine, Victor de la Luz is the winemaker at both Gordon Estates and his own winery, De La Luz Wines. Originally from Mexico, Victor was actually a professional dancer before catching the wine bug and diving head first into Washington wine. A student of the Walla Walla Community Viticulture and Enology program, Victor has crafted some beautiful new wines for Gordon Estates. He has an inspired story and I think you will very much enjoy learning more about him. Here is my interview with Victor de la Luz, winemaker at Gordon Estates and De La Luz Wines.

WWB: What initially inspired you to become a winemaker?

VDL: I would say it’s like falling in love - you never know where, when, or with whom. The first time was in Europe I was folk dancer in 1999; more specifically in Agrigento in Sicily Italy. I can’t say exactly what kind of wine, but I can say it was white wines we were tasting. At the moment when the wine hit my palate I felt a rush like never before. The taste, flavor, texture created such a memory; it’s one of those moments where if you could go back in time without hesitation you would go back for that moment again. The second time in 2007 while in Seattle, I was given the opportunity by Matthew Loso, the winemaker at Matthews Winery in Woodinville. Tasting that wine brought me back to the day of 1999. It was in 2007 that I knew I wanted to make a living making wine. To give people that feeling that had in1999.

WWB: Talk about the education you received at Walla Walla Community College and their enology and viticulture program?

VDL:Within the wine industry you’re always learning and growing. Walla Walla Community college enology and viticulture program is a complete and full circle program like none other. From the time you step into the program you are hands on at the start of fall at the peak point of harvest. There you learn the basics of pruning, thinning, and the full circle of the grapes growth much like the circle of life if you will from the birth until the end.

WWB: Your 2017 Gordon Estate Chardonnay (WWB,90) has wonderful depth and poise. Can you talk about the winemaking behind this great value chardonnay?

VD: Balance with weight, fruit, mouthful, acidity, and time. I have been drinking chardonnay for over 10 years. I wanted to make a chardonnay that people would love, enjoy, and talk about. Much like my first love in 1999. This 2017 Chardonnay is a result of having a great team from my former consultant winemaker Hillary Sjolund. Kamiak Vineyards manager Marc Nelson, along with his staff Ramon Armenta and Camilo Tapia, have extensive knowledge and experience from the soil, seed, and growth within the vineyard for well over 20 years. They make my job as a winemaker so much easier. I thank Gordon Estate for providing me with the opportunity to be a part of the team that made the 2017 Gordon Estate Chardonnay.

WWB: Last year you launched your own brand wines, De La Luz Wines. Can you talk about staring your own winery project and what we can expect from these limited production wines?

VDL: First I have to thank Gordon Estate for allowing me to use their space for this new venture. Having my own label is a dream come true. The making and production of the 2017 Gordon Estate Chardonnay was the beginning of things to come. For De La Luz, a single vineyard showcase will be limited releases from three different vineyards in three different AVAs. The first one is 2016 Merlot from Golden Ridge Walla Walla Valley AVA. The 2017 Merlot is from Two Blondes Vineyards Yakima valley AVA. De La Luz 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon from Kamiak Vineyards in the Columbia Valley AVA.

WWB: What are some of your favorite wines of the world?

VDL: My favorite type of wine is what I savor in that moment. The moment when I am with friends, family, and loved ones. I can’t select a favorite wine of the world until I travel it.

Gordon Estate

Today marks a two part series with winery and winemaker. For those who are not familiar with Gordon Estate, it is one of Washington’s historic wineries, dating back to 1980. In that year Jeff Gordon, his wife, Vicki, and brother Bill, planted vines in the southeastern Washington’s Columbia Valley. Dr. Walter Clore felt that the 200 acre parcel of land would be a great spot to grow wine which was nestled near the Snake and Columbia Rivers. Gordon Estate has been family owned and operated since 1983, and released their first wine in 1985, an estate Chardonnay wine produced from their estate vines. Rebranded in 2012 as Gordon Estate, the winery produces a host of different varietals, from Rose, to Ice Wine to Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Winemaker Victor de La Luz heads up winemaking for Gordon Estate. Originally Mexico, this professional dancer turned winemaker has quietly been making some seriously good wines. His new wines were every bit as good as the ones that I reviewed last year. Check out the new 2017 Gordon Estate Chardonnay (WWB, 90) which has really nice freshness and weight. I also was impressed by the 2014 Gordon Estates ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 92) which is a late release wine that is absolutely singing right now. This wine will cellar well for the next decade. Learn more about these wines at https://gordonwines.com Here are the beautiful wines by Gordon Estate.

2017 Gordon Estate Chardonnay- The 2017 Gordon Estate Chardonnay opens with vanilla cream and brioche notes that fill the glass. The palate has good freshness and weight, unveiling whipping cream with orchard fruit flavors. This is seriously good for the price. Drink 2019-2025- 90

2015 Gordon Estate Merlot-The nose here is quite juicy, delivering copious red fruits that mingle with shades of black tea and herbal tones. The palate has good richness, delivering black and red fruits that collide with herbal and earthy undertones. Drink 2019-2025- 90

2016 Gordon Estate Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 Gordon Estates Cabernet Sauvignon delivers nice savory and herbal tones on the nose with dark fruits on the nose. The palate comes off a touch hot, delivering rich and slightly sweetened black fruit flavors with herbal undertones coming in strong. Drink 2019-2023- 89

2015 Gordon Estate ‘Tradition’ Red Wine- The ‘Tradition’ is a beautiful blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 10% Petit Verdot with just a touch of Malbec. The wine was aged for 23 months in 45% new French oak prior to bottling. The nose is deep and seductive with chocolate and copious dark fruits that enter the fray. The texture evokes elegance as sagebrush, milk chocolate covered raspberry and Black Forest cake flavors all shine brightly on the palate. While seriously good now, this will evolve well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2014 Gordon Estate ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2014 ‘Reserve’ by Gordon Estates is a beautiful new wine by the talented Victor de la Luz. On the nose this takes on rich dark fruits that mingle with chocolate covered espresso bean aromatics that all collide in the glass. The palate is soft, showing a glorious texture. Black tea, exotic spices, dark chocolate shavings and blackberry pie flavors all mingle beautifully on the palate. Elegant and downright delicious, this beautiful wine will cellar well for the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 92

Mollydooker

One of the outstanding wineries out of Australia, Mollydooker achieved an unprecedented amount of fame in a very short amount of time. Founded in 2005 by Sarah and Sparky Marquis, Mollydooker was met with incredible critical acclaim immediately as their first vintage wine, the 2006 ‘Carnival of Love’ Shiraz was immediately awarded 99 points by Robert Parker and was sold out in five days. The following year, their Velvet Glove Shiraz became their fifth wine to be awarded 99 points by The Wine Advocate and the Carnival of Love has since been listed in Wine Spectator’s ‘Top Ten wines in the World’ three times. This is just an unprecedented amount of success for a new winery.

I was first introduced to these wines in their 2007 vintage as word traveled very quickly to the United States. The combination of weight and acidity in the wines was quite thrilling. I was also enticed with the consistency of their wines, regardless of vintage. For instance, 2011 was a highly challenging vintage in South Australia and the wines made by Mollydooker that vintage were some of the finest produced in the region. In 2017 Sarah took sole control of the winery and now has her son, Luke, the ‘Blue Eyed Boy’ is involved in the winery as well. I sat down with Sarah earlier this year for an interview and she was a delight to talk wine with as she was recently named 2018 Owner/Operator of the Year at the Australian Women in Wine Awards. 

I had the chance to review the new run of releases by Mollydooker and was really impressed with the consistency of the lineup. Following up the gorgeous ’16 bottling, the 2017 Mollydooker ‘Carnival of Love’ Shiraz (WWB, 96) is a dense and decadent treat, with great acidity and mid-palate weight. This is a must for any serious collector of Australian Shiraz. Even better was their flagship wine, the 2017 Mollydooker ‘Velvet Glove’ Shiraz (WWB, 98) which is a wine that flirts with perfection and is one of the best wines that I have sampled in the past year. I was just blown away with how this wine shows in its youth. Simply put, it is irresistible now and will only get better with a little bottle age. Learn more about this inspired Australian winery at https://www.mollydookerwines.com.au/ Here are the beautiful new wines by Mollydooker.

2017 Mollydooker ‘Blue Eyed Boy’ Shiraz- This new release Shiraz opens with a rich bouquet of coffee grounds, black cherry syrup and suggestions of black tea with milk chocolate that fill the nose. The palate has a good combination of richness and freshness with black tea, cassis, mocha and graphite that combine marvelously on the palate. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2017 Mollydooker ‘Gigglepot’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Gigglepot’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows beautiful range on the nose from red bell pepper to anise to cassis and Turkish coffee aromas that build in the glass. The palate exudes class with black tea, blackberry cordial, mocha and bell pepper flavors that all connect. Seductive and showing really good richness this gorgeous wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2017 Mollydooker ‘Enchanted Path’ Red Wine-The ‘Enchanted Path’ is a seriously good blend of 72% Shiraz with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose is ultra-rich with intense black and blue fruits that collide with minerals and coffee grounds on the nose, The palate shows off a rich and plush texture as black tea, mocha, creosote and blackberry compote with shades of blueberry pie all connect together once in the mouth. A show-stopper, this will cellar well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 95

2017 Mollydooker ‘Carnival of Love’ Shiraz- The 2017 ‘Carnival of Love’ Shiraz shows off an exotic, highly intoxicating nose of red rose petals alongside rich dark fruits with blueberry compote, mocha and Asian spices that fill the glass The palate is exceedingly plush with ripe blueberry pie, anise, exotic spices and shades of tar that all collide in the glass. Decadent and simply marvelous in its youth, this will continue to evolve well over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2019-2033- 96

2017 Mollydooker ‘Velvet Glove’ Shiraz- The 2017 ‘Velvet Glove’ Shiraz is a simply magical new wine by Mollydooker. The nose is incredibly perfumed showing roasted dates, Turkish coffee, sweet pipe tobacco and blueberry compote that all sing in harmony together in the glass. The palate is deep and highly viscous, showing an incredible texture yet maintaining wonderful tension in the glass. Blueberry pie, mocha, Turkish coffee and earthy undertones with minerals all shine on the palate. Incredible now in its youth, this will evolve well for two decades. Drink 2019-2039- 98

Chappellet

One of the great lineups in Napa, Chappellet was founded by Napa pioneer Donn Chappellet. Born in 1931 in Los Angeles, Donn started his wine education by collecting Bordeaux wines while in college, and later ran Interstate United Corporation, a coffee-vending distributorship he co-founded in the mid-1950s, which he helped turn into the third-largest such business in the United States, with more than 7,000 employees and a listing on the New York Stock Exchange.

In 1966 he sold his shares in Interstate United and guided by the legendary winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff of Beaulieu Vineyards bought 320 acres of rocky mountain terrain at the eastern edge of the Napa Valley. Donn saw this terroir as one which would connect with the great wines of Bordeaux. He saw the potential for Pritchard Hill and initially planted Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon which was met with great critical acclaim. Sadly passing in 2016, Donn became a legend of this great Napa Valley AVA.

Winemaker Phillip Corallo-Titus has been at Chappellet remarkably since 1990. A graduate of UC Davis, Phillip spent time traveling to both Bordeaux and Burgundy to learn about these esteemed regions. In 1981, Phillip joined the Chappellet team as assistant winemaker, and then in1990, Donn Chappellet invited Phillip to return to the winery as Chappellet’s winemaker, a position he has held ever since. Phillip’s wines were simply outstanding across the board. I absolutely adored his new 2017 Chappellet ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 93) which has amazing tension intact in the wine and shows really dazzling bright citrus zest and cream flavors. This is one for the cellar. One of the great wines that I have sampled over the past year, the 2015 Chappellet ‘Pritcharid Hill Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 97) is a massive and dense beast of a wine. With a silky mouthfeel and gobs of dark fruits with serious range, this beautiful wine is only an infant now and will provide drinking pleasure for decades. Learn more about this famed Napa estate at 

2017 Chappellet ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ is a cool site in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley. Lemon zest and brioche with banana undertones fill the nose. The palate has good freshness and richness with downright delicious lemon infused vanilla cream and roasted hazelnut flavors. Stunning in its youth, this beautiful wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2017 Chappellet ‘Calesea Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The ‘Calesea Vineyard’ is a cool climate vineyard located in the Petaluma Gap of Sonoma. The nose shows earthy and smoky undertones with vanilla cream brûlée and suggestions of ripe tropical fruits that fill the glass. The palate shows good richness and tension with beautiful tropical and orchard fruits with an exceedingly long, vanilla cream finish. While delightful now, this will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2017 Chappellet ‘El Novillero Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The ‘El Novillero Vineyard’ features Robert Young clone Chardonnay which was first planted in 1993. On the nose this takes on ripe peach, vanilla cream and roasted pineapple aromas that all collide in the glass. The texture is lovely as the wine shows not only great richness but great minerality. Pineapple upside-down cake, vanilla cream, nutmeg and Pink Lady apple flavors all come together marvelously. While enticing now, this will develop well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2017 Chappellet ‘Bateman Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Located in the Russian River Valley AVA, the ‘Bateman Vineyard’ is planted on Goldridge loamy soils. The nose opens with ripe boysenberry cobbler, teaberry and suggestions of exotic spices and smoke infused cran-cherry that fill the glass. The palate is remarkably earthy, showing a silky mouthfeel with delicate tannins. Dark fruits collide with red fruits and smoky undertones on the palate. While delicious now, this will continue to develop over the next ten plus years. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2017 Chappellet ‘Dutton Ranch’ Pinot Noir- One of the great vineyards in California, the ‘Dutton Ranch’ was first planted in 1967 by Warren Dutton in this foggy, cooler site for Pinot Noir. The bouquet is outstanding with bright red fruits that connect with citrus rind and shades of black truffle that fill this intoxicating nose. The palate is downright delicious, showing not only a silky mouthfeel but a stunning array of red fruits, blood orange and black truffle flavors. Complex and stunning now, this will develop well over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2019-2033- 94

2017 Chappellet ‘Mountain Cuvee’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Mountain Cuvee’ is a blend of largely Cabernet Sauvignon (55%) with 28% Merlot, and smaller portions Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Showing off its inky color, the ‘Mountain Cuvee’ opens with forward and downright delicious dark fruit flavors with shades of chocolate and minerals. Seriously good and delightful in its youth, this will provide drinking enjoyment over the next seven plus years. Drink 2019-2025- 91

2015 Chappellet ‘Pritchard Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 ‘Pritchard Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon by Chappellet is a stunning new wine by this storied Napa winery. Sourced from their estate vineyard, the Cabernet Sauvignon was aged for 22 months in new French oak prior to bottling. This bold, yet elegant wine shows very dark aromas of espresso bean, tar, cassis and anise that all collide in the glass. The palate shows off a silky texture, yielding both incredible tension and viscosity. Black cherry compote, mocha, anise, cigar ash and chocolate covered black raspberry flavors all impress on the palate. The exceedingly long finish lingers long on the palate. While exceptional in its youth, this esteemed wine will only improve with extended bottle age. Drink 2020-2040- 97

Doubleback

One of the premier Washington wineries, focusing on high quality Cabernet Sauvignon, Doubleback was founded by NFL legend, Drew Bledsoe, and his wife, Maura. Drew has circled back following his brilliant career. Originally from Walla Walla, he was a star at Walla Walla High School before his illustrious tenure at Washington State University. Drew has visions of starting his own winery for many years and going back to Walla Walla was the perfect choice for him. Drew returned to Walla Walla in 2007 to plant his estate vineyard, McQueen, on the southern end of the Walla Walla Valley AVA. Doubleback was born in 2008 which would focus on estate fruit to create world class Cabernet Sauvignon from Walla Walla. Drew knew he needed a top class winemaker and connected with childhood friend and superstar winemaker, Chris Figgins, of Leonetti Cellar, who served as consulting winemaker until Josh McDaniels assumed the role in 2015. Josh is a highly conscientious and down to earth guy that crafts some of the best Cabernet in the state.

He creates stunning wines and his 2016 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 94) is a gorgeous wine, showing gobs of dark fruits with really good poise. Tried twice recently, this wine has a very long life ahead of it. I was totally blown away with the 2016 Doubleback ‘Estate Reserve’ Red Wine (WWB, 95) which is dense and seductive, needing some more time in the bottle to fully come together. This beautiful wine will age well for twenty years. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.doubleback.com/ Here are the gorgeous new Cabernet wines by Doubleback.

2016 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon- Deeply hued, the 2016 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, with small portions Petit Verdot, Malbec and Merlot. They have utilized the McQueen, Lefore, Figgins, Bob Healy and Pepper Bridge Vineyards for this excellent new wine. Not needing a decant and showing a beautiful aromatic profile right out of the gate, this opens with red bell pepper, anise, espresso bean and dark currant aromas that all build in the glass. The palate shows really good balance and poise, yielding a good combination of dark and red fruit flavors with herbal undertones. Energetic and showing good poise, this will continue to drink well over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2020-2035- 94

2016 Doubleback ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Reserve’ combines Cabernet Sauvignon (78%) with equal parts Petit Verdot and Malbec. Seductive aromas of this wine impress you immediately as the wine reveals a seductive nose with Black Forest Cake, coffee grounds, anise and creme de cassis. The mid-palate weight to this wine is exceedingly good, as is the sense of balance. Anise, green bell pepper, mocha and shades of blueberry puree flavors all come together marvelously. A long-ager, try to resist this beautiful wine for at least two more years. Drink 2021-2040- 95

Titans of Champagne

Friends, as we near our United States Independence Day, I felt that an article on top champagne would be a great way to ring in another fantastic July 4th. Over the past few months I have been fortunate enough to enjoy some top champagnes from select bottlings like Krug, Dom Perignon, Jacques Selosse, Cristal, Salon and several others. I admittedly have enjoyed a special affinity for champagne since I was quite young and was lucky to be exposed to the likes of Veuve Cliquot and Dom Perignon at quite an early stage in my wine learning. These were some monumental educative moments for me. 

As I grew older and my palate continued to expand, I came to love the incredible nuance of a great champagne. Over the past few months I have been sharing these special wines mostly on special occasions with friends and loved ones. The wines are so special I simply cannot resist taking tasting notes that are reflections of a wonderful moment in time. Here are some of my tasting notes from some of what are truly some of the Titans of Champagne. 

Jacquesson

1996 Jacquesson ‘Avize Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut’ Champagne- The 1996 Jacquesson ‘Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut’ is a sensational effort at new twenty three years of age. Showing off it’s golden-brown hue, the Champagne is showing good range with the nutty and earthy character, gently woven into the nutmeg infused baked apple and Challah bread aromatics that al dazzle in the glass. The mouthfeel is soft upon the attack as this ‘96 is offering wonderful tertiary with salted macadamia nut, and damp earth notes that mingle with unripe green apple, and citrus rind accents. Seriously good now, this beautiful Champagne will continue to evolve well for the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 94

Krug

NV Krug ‘Grand Cuvee’ (159EME Edition) Champagne- The NV ‘159EME’ Grand Cuvee’ was largely composed of wines sourced from the challenging 2003 vintage in Champagne. Released in, the ‘159EME’ is drinking magically at this stage in its development. One the nose this takes on good take from salted rice cracker to lemon zest that all mingle with the lovely damp earth and flinty tones that all connect in the glass. The weight is formidable once on the mouth, giving off an unctuous texture. The flinty, almost petrol tones also show up on the impressive palate, with baked Bosc pear, lemon curd, shiitake mushroom and shades of kumquat. This is absolutely irresistible stuff from Krug and the warm, highly difficult 2003 vintage as the Champagne will provide drinking enjoyment over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 95

NV Krug ‘Grand Cuvee’ (166EME Edition) Champagne- A total stunner, the Krug '166EME' is a blend of 140 wines ranging from vintages 1996-2010. The wine spent seven years in the cellar before disgorgement in Winter 2016-17. Blending for the wine was crafted near harvest in 2010 with the final edition being 45% Pinot Noir, 39% Chardonnay and 16% Pinot Meunier. The wine shows dizzying light bubbles in the glass, showcasing aromatics of lemon oil infused sourdough bread with nutty and earthy undertones that entice on the nose. The palate is bright and refreshing, showing tremendous the verve and elegance that the ‘Grand Cuvée’ is truly known for. Highly complex, this displays shades of marzipan, citrus zest, macadamia nut, baked bread and undertones of peat moss that line the high tones. Precise and utterly delicious to the last drop, this magnificent wine is showing remarkably well now, but should continue to dazzle for the next two decades or more. Drink 2019-2040- 97

NV Krug ‘Grand Cuvee’ (167EME Edition) Champagne- The 'Grande Cuvée' 167ÈME Edition from Krug is a simply sensational effort that is drinking marvelously now, but is ultimately destined for an exceedingly long life in the cellar. This particular wine was disgorged in Spring 2017 and is a blend of 191 wines ranging from vintages 1995-2011. The aromatics show wonderful mustiness, white truffle and peat moss with bright nectarine rind, toasted macadamia nut, kumquat, marzipan and a lovely nutty character all build in the glass. The brightness and intensity on the palate excites with wonderful weight, textural richness as well as a dazzling minerality. Mouth-watering acidity accompanies this beautiful Champagne with lemon zest, wild mushroom and ginger infused sourdough bread flavors with diatomaceous earth undertones all impress. Am absolute stunner, this brilliant Chamagne is glorious now and should go on to evolve and drink beautifully over the next two decades. Drink 2019-2040- 97

2003 Krug Champagne- The 2003 Krug vintage Champagne is a stunning wine from this warm and somewhat challenging vintage. This is definitely one of the best (if not the finest) Champagnes I’ve sampled from the 2003 vintage. Aromatics of intense kumquat skin, honeydew melon, with earthy and smoky undertones all entice the senses once in the glass. The weight and freshness is stunning. Marzipan, and lemon cream are all beautifully woven together with shades of white truffle shavings. This has a wonderful effervescence and seamless quality, with formidable weight. The exceedingly long finish lingers. Outstanding now, this both the verve and viscosity to cellar well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 95

Moet & Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’

1996 Moet & Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’ Champagne- The 1996 Dom Pérignon is a revelation at now twenty three years of age. On the nose this takes on some spectacular range from Challah bread tones to lemon zest as well as Pink Lady apple and candied ginger. Once on the attack this shows formidable weight and tension, while this seamless wine effortlessly dances across the mid-palate. Ripe Japanese pear, brioche, lemon zest and wild mushroom flavors collide with the strong salinity and minerality. A true heavyhitter, this wine has many rounds left to fight, but is simply intoxicating at this stage in its development. Drink 2019-2040- 98

1998 Moet & Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’ Champagne- I absolutely adore the 1998 Dom Pérignon at this stage in development, as this was a marvelous surprise to see how balanced and seductive this wine is now. Showing a slightly lower viscosity than the ’96, the 1998 Dom Pérignon greets you with a wonderfully nutty and musty bouquet, followed by great tension and linear progression on the mid-palate. The wonderful sense of freshness complements the nutty, wild mushroom, peat moss and orchard fruit flavors. This has a wonderful saline streak that runs through the exceedingly long finish. While marvelous now, this has at least fifteen years left. Drink 2019-2035- 97

2006 Moet & Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’ Champagne- The 2006 Dom Pérignon is a wonderfully developed Champagne at this stage in its development. 2006 was blessed with near perfect weather at harvest, following an excellent growing season. The production team at Moet & Chandon continue to produce some of the best Champagne in the world and the brilliant 2006 Dom Pérignon is no exception. This wine begins with aromas of brioche, porcini mushroom, gala apple and banana. Once on the mouth there are ripe red delicious apple, toasted macadamia nut, Meyer lemon rind, and Japanese pear flavors that combine with the peat moss undertones. The wine has a wonderful combination of weight and acidity, with a silky mousse and gorgeous texture. The earthy components to this blending beautifully complement the citrus fruit. While the 2006 Dom Pérignon is showing marvelously at the thirteen year mark but it still has more than a decade to go. Drink 2019-2033- 95

2008 Moet & Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’ Champagne- The 2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne is a stunning wine that showcases this outstanding vintage. Released after the '09 edition, the 2008 is the last vintage released by cave de chef Vincent Chaperon before he retired at the end of 2018. What was a very cool vintage, 2008 saw perfect conditions at harvest which led to very ripe berries. At the present the ripeness is quite evident on the nose with bright marigold flowers with kumquat and shades of nectarine rind alongside the lemon infused brioche accents that all build in the glass. The palate is round, yet tightly wound, delivering a nice sense of decadence. Bright Pink Lady apple, lemon zest and Challah bread all combine brilliantly with a good sense of salinity on the palate. While remarkable in its youth, this really needs at least a year or two of bottle age to fully come together and show its full potential. That being said, this clearly has the potential to evolve an become an all-time classic vintage for Dom Pérignon. Drink 2020-2040- 97

2009 Moet & Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’ Champagne- The 2009 Dom Pérignon is a simply fabulous effort from a challenging vintage in Champagne. The musty and earthy aromatics grab you straight away followed by wild mushrooms, brioche, poached pear and toasted hazelnut aromatics that impress. Incredibly balanced and with remarkable finesse, this showcases flavors of lemon zest, baked apple and marzipan with biscuit. Today this is just a touch youthful, needing some additinonal time to develop. Nonetheless this is a simply gorgeous Champagne with marvelous cellaring potential. Try to hold off on this stunner for at least two years. Disgorged in June 2016. Drink 2020-2040- 95

Louis Roederer

2008 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Brut Champagne- The 2008 'Cristal' Champagne is an absolutely magical effort from cellar master Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon, who has crafted a simply dazzling wine from this sensational vintage. Composed of 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay the 2008 was bottle-aged for 8 years before being left to rest for at least 8 months after disgorging. This beautiful Champagne begins with highly perfumed aromatics, offering a gorgeous combination of musty and earthy tones up front, followed by white truffle shavings, peat moss, brioche and bright pear nuances that complete the exotic nose. Streamlined throughout, this shows incredible precision and clarity, as well as an unmistakable a seamless quality that makes it nearly impossible to resist. It goes on to impress with its incredible verve and energy, as well as racy acidity, which is all underlined by a remarkable saline character that echos through the palate. This continues to deliver an outstanding combination of weight and effervescence as flavors of Asian pear, marzipan, Marcona almond and kumquat all come together to delight the senses. The 2008 is truly one of the most compelling releases that I’ve ever had the opportunity to taste from this house. Although it is already utterly scintillating in its youth, this will ultimately need some more time in bottle, nonetheless its pedigree and potential are extremely evident. Drink 2020-2045- 98

2009 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Brut Champagne- The 2009 'Cristal' is a completely stunning Champagne which impresses with its polish, complexity, weight and silky mousse. The brightness is wonderful with intense lemon zest and kumquat aromatics that all mingle in the glass. The freshness really shows beautifully on the mid-palate, showing not only good weight but intense orchard fruits that mingle with the wet stone, and high-toned citrus zest accents. I love the silky mouthfeel that adds to the wonderful experience. This is settling in after some time after release. Drink 2019-2035- 95

Pol Roger

2008 Pol Roger ‘Sir Winston Churchill’ Champagne- A simply magical 2008 Champagne, the 2008 ‘Sir Winston Churchill’ Champagne is a revelation from this dazzling vintage. The wine entices right away, showing lemon infused biscuit with shades of wild mushroom and baked pear aromatics that all mingle brightly in the glass. The palate shows incredible verve and freshness with a bright sense of effervescence and a silky soft texture. Once on the attack, the palate leads with bright bright lemon zest and green apple tones that collide with mushroom, peat moss and hints of freshly baked brioche. While outstanding now, this really needs another year of bottle age prior to being enjoyed. One thing is certain — the 2008 ‘Sir Winston Churchill’ will be exceedingly long lived. Drink 2020-2035- 96

Salon

1999 Salon ‘Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 'Cuvée S’ Champagne- The 1999 Salon ‘S Blanc de Blancs Cuvee S’ Champagne is a magical wine that is sinfully good at twenty years of age. Disgorged in 2011 this wine leads the way with an extraordinarily good nose of salted praline with shades of wet stone, damp earth and bright citrus fruits that all mingle marvelously in the glass. The silky mousse captivates the senses. Bright green apple and kumquat flavors connect with diatomaceous earth, and shades of white truffle on the palate. The freshness here is quite extraordinary. While delightful now, this one of a kind Champagne will provide drinking satisfaction for at least another fifteen years. Drink 2019-2039- 97

2004 Salon ‘Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 'Cuvée S’ Champagne- The 2004 Salon Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 'Cuvée S' is an extraordinary bottle of Champagne. Scintillating and absolutely dazzling this instanly impresses as the wine takes on beautiful salinity  that combines with aromas of citrus zest, ripe pear, toasted hazelnut and mulberry aromas that simply radiate in the glass. This utterly riveting Champagne is full-bodied on the palate, with vibrant acidity, and a gorgeous fine silky mousse that glides gracefully through the mid-palate and awakens the senses. Pink Lady apple, wild mushrooms, kumquat and salted wet stone flavors all combibe to show serious range. Already at fourteen years of age, this seductive Champagne still has plenty to offer and can certinaly endure additional cellaring. Overall, this is a simply brilliant Champagne that will continue to provide drinking pleaseure for many years to come. Drink 2020-2040- 99

2007 Salon ‘Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 'Cuvée S’ Champagne- One of the storied Champagne houses, first formed in 1905, Salon has produced another stunning release to add to their long list of legendary wines. This Champagne is produced from a one-hectare parcel owned by Salon: "Salon’s garden", along with 19 other smaller parcels in Mesnil-sur-Oger, which were chosen by Aimé Salon at the beginning of the century. The 2007 'Cuvée S' was given 5 g/l dosage. Golden in color, this fabulous bottling displays remarkable salinity on the nose, showing overt diatomaceous earth. White rose, with Challah bread, and Gravenstein apple aromatics complete this outstanding vintage Champagne. The mousse is thick and viscous, as it beautifully coats the mid-palate. Lazer focused and intense, marked by flavors lemon oil, nectarine rind, sour apple and suggestions of sourdough bread flavors all brightly align. This is a age-worthy Champagne which will likely need another two plus years of bottle age before it begins to show its best. Drink 2020-2040- 97

Jacques Selosse

NV Jacques Selosse ‘Initial’ Champagne- Disgorged in 2013, the Jacques Selosse ‘Initial’ Champagne is a simply ethereal wine that is a revelation at this stage in its development. The wine is a blend of three consecutive vintages, and is entirely comprised of grand cru vineyard Chardonnay. The Champagne shows incredible toasted hazelnut with lemon oil and wild mushroom notes that fill this slightly intoxicating bouquet. The palate is silky smooth and glides across the frame. The texture is downright sexy as melon and lemon oil with toasted hazelnut and peat moss tones mingle with minerals on this dazzling palate. The exceedingly long finish lingers long. Simply magical now this has a very long life head of it. Drink 2019-2037- 96

Interview with Erik Liedholm, Company Wine Director John Howie Restaurant Group

One of the great minds in Northwest wine is Erik Liedholm, the longtime wine director for John Howie Restaurants. His critically acclaimed wine program has been named Best New Wine List in America by Food and Wine Magazine, as well as been awarded the Best of Award of Excellence by Wine Spectator Magazine. Erik graduated cum laude from Michigan State University’s School of Hospitality Business. Erik is also the youngest member ever to be inducted into the Chicago chapter of Les Amis d’Escoffier. In addition to his extensive history in the restaurant and wine industry, he is also the owner and distiller of the award-winning distillery Wildwood Spirits Co. I had the great opportunity to sit down with Erik and chat about his career in wine. I think you will very much enjoy hearing about his story. Here is my exclusive interview with Advanced Sommelier Erik Liedholm.

WWB: How did you first decide that you wanted to major in hospitality and be a part of the hospitality industry?

EL: When I was growing up, my best friend’s dad had a restaurant in Lansing, Michigan. Even as a kid I could tell there was something special about this restaurant. It was a Greek restaurant but they served continental cuisine. They had a lot of great stuff, and everything they did was with great humility and hospitality. I saw that they treated their guests differently than other restaurants. I was mesmerized, and knew from a pretty young age I wanted to work in hospitality in some capacity. I’m from a family of academics, my mom was a music teacher and my dad [was] a professor of economics. Wine education became a way that I could take hold of my academic roots. I’ve worked in restaurants for most of my life; I was a dish washer in high school, and through college I was a cook with the intention of being a chef. My first job out of college was at a restaurant called The Golden Mushroom which was a great spot for haute cuisine. The chef was the first Master Chef in the world so naturally I wanted to learn from him. I worked in the kitchen during the day and served as the floor manager at the night. I basically had no life and had no sleep during that time, making only 21K a year working about 80 hours a week. The restaurant didn’t treat employees right but, I learned a lot about what not to do in the industry. The shining light was meeting and working with Madeline Triffon, the first female Master Sommelier. She was truly a gem and had not only great knowledge but great humility. She was engaging and made wine accessible; it was she who took me out of the kitchen and into the front of the house.

WWB: How did you come to know Chef John Howie? Can you talk about building the wine program at John Howie restaurants? What were some challenges that you faced? How do you try to cater your menu at both John Howie Steakhouse and Seastar Restaurant? How are these wine lists both similar and different?

EL: My meeting with John Howie was odd. I had left Michigan after having been a general manager at a few different places. I was the GM at an iconic place in Carmel where they held the Masters of Food and Wine event. That resort became a Hyatt, and Hyatt asked if I wanted to stay with them to open a hotel in Seattle. This was the Hyatt down on Pine and 7 th , and they were planning to include a high-end restaurant called ‘727’ with Chef Danielle Custer. I went up to Seattle to work on that in 2001, and it was well received. Then 9/11 happened and Hyatt laid a lot of people off. They said “OK, Erik you can do everything now,” — which meant that I was thrust into being the Food & Beverage Director for the entire hotel. One day I got a call that there was a guy in the lobby who really wanted to talk with me. It was John, and he told me that he was opening a restaurant in Bellevue and he that he had been advised to hire me to manage the beverage program. I thanked him and told him that I was not looking to move. A week later the phone rang and it was John again. He essentially gave me a blank sheet of paper and asked what I wanted. I put down everything it would take for me to move. The rest was history – seventeen years later I’m still with John.

When we first started our wine list was very safe. Over time we started to challenge our guests. Our goal was to gain their trust so that the next time they came in they would be willing to try something different. We evolved that way. It allowed us to expand. In the beginning, we were constrained by a lot of things, including storage – we just didn’t have the storage space needed for an expansive list. Even a week before we opened, we had no place to put the wine. John had originally envisioned putting the wine behind the bar and we had to buy what was essentially a closet. We were able to fashion some racks and make a very simple but functioning wine cellar. We were eventually able to add a few EuroCaves, but we were dealing with a lot of people who wanted cool wine and we still couldn’t do it efficiently. We had to hire a lot of sommeliers. One person would be on the floor while the other would be chilling the wines, which is a lot of work. The long way around this was to adapt to what our guests wanted, and we started to morph their wants into our list.

There is some overlap in the wine lists at Seastar and John Howie Steak, but the clientele at Steak tends to be more particular. I want the Steak sommeliers to be comfortable with their wines and I’ve given the wine director at Steak autonomy to choose things that he thinks will work well with the menu and the clientele. I’ll jump in if the wine director needs help, but I want him to have a say. The director at Steak also has my blessing to hire sommeliers that work well with him. Seastar is a seafood-driven restaurant while John Howie is a steakhouse. At Seastar we sell almost an even amount of white and red, but at Steak they sell about 80% red wine. Our main sales goal is to make the guest happy. It’s easy to recommend an expensive wine but we try not to do that; we have a lot of inexpensive wines that will show marvelously. We also use the proper stemware for everything, regardless of price. Seastar does so much more volume in terms of big parties. It’s challenging to do tray service at Seastar, but you need to have service that’s quick and professional and thoughtful. At Seastar we have about ten sommeliers on staff – a number of them work part time, and we have a few full time people. I try to set them up for success, and I know they are hoping to inspire their guests, so I like to include some of their favorites on the list. The list here will vary slightly given who is on the floor at a given time – for instance when we had an Austrian MS here for four years, he was great at helping guests learn about Austrian wines.

A lot of the sommeliers at Seastar participate in an annual team trip to Napa or go to France with me to blend our own champagne cuvee. We have a good symbiosis between the front and the back of the house and everyone is genuinely on the guests’ side. The wait staff doesn’t run interference, they want to be sure that the guest gets what they want. We take a lot of pride in our staff, and want our guests to be treated wonderfully. But there is such a thing as too much wine information for the guests. Wine people are known to wax on about little details forever, but we try to really engage the guests and give them the right tidbits rather than cite stats or specs.

WWB: What were some of your greatest challenges in achieving your Advanced Sommelier certification? Were there parts of the exam that came more naturally or were more challenging?

EL: I took my Advanced Sommelier exam back in 1998. If I were to take the Advanced now, I think the theory portion would be really hard. Back then, the only questions on Portuguese wines were Port related, and New Zealand and Australia were not big players yet. I really didn’t know what I was getting into when I took my Advanced Sommelier exam. I just tried to focus on what I knew. The service part was really tough for me – here you are trying to pour and explain wines to someone who knows more than you. The hardest part for me was the blind tasting because back then there were no guidelines for how to speak to the wines. Now they use a sort of grid, and the candidates know what characteristics they need to touch on for each wine. But I felt pretty good going in to the exam because I didn’t know what to expect. Ignorance was bliss because I passed the first time.

WWB: What are some of your favorite pairing options at Seastar Restaurant?

EL: I think it’s important to first realize that there is danger in taking wine pairing too seriously, but there are some good rules that you can follow. My philosophy, even as a chef, has always been to match the size and weight of the wine with the richness of the food. You look at acid, tannin, alcohol and sweetness; they all play a role in terms of matching wine with food. So does preparation – is the halibut fried or poached? What are the side dishes? Sometimes the prominent flavor component on the dish isn’t the main component. If you have a cookout, you’re not necessarily paining the wine to the burger, but to the grilled onions and mustard.

My favorite pairing at Seastar is for the Hot and Sour Soup. I think this dish is absolute the best. The soup has an intense heat and different textures, with shrimp and mushrooms. Still wine doesn’t work with this. I think the best pairing is a Brachetto, which is sweet and lightly effervescent, it’s perfect.

WWB: When you are not carefully curating the wine lists at John Howie Steak and Seastar, what are some of your favorite wines of the world? What are some of the best wines that you have sampled over the past few years?

EL: Well, just recently I was in France with a good friend of mine. We drove down to Burgundy for my friend’s birthday and went to some incredible Burgundy tastings. I think one of the best wines I had was a white Burgundy, the 2012 Ravenaux ‘Le Clos’ Chablis. It was only 120 euro and it was just so good. But nine years ago for my fortieth birthday my wife gave me a 1970 Vega Sicilia ‘Unico’ and that was the best wine I ever had. That was just a magnificent wine.

SUNU

A brand new Pinot Noir project started by Louis Skinner of Betz Family Winery, SUNU refers to the French statement which means emphasis on vineyard as the primary engine of wine quality and character, “Sous Nous,” which means “under us.”  It is not surprising that Louis has chosen some very exciting sites in the Willamette Valley to craft his wines, including the famed Shea Vineyard as well as the Saffron Fields Vineyard and the Guadalupe Vineyard. Each site is truly unique and brings their own inherent expression to the Pinot Noir. 

Earlier in the year I interviewed Louis (http://www.washingtonwineblog.com/blog/2019/2/28/interview-with-louis-skinner-winemaker-at-betz-family-winery) and I was quite intrigued to see how these new wines would perform. Having reviewed more than 500 wines from Oregon this year I can say with confidence that these wines are every bit outstanding. The wines deftly reflect the terroir and considering that this is Louis’s first attempt to making great Oregon Pinot Noir, I would say that he did remarkably well. I loved their entry level wine, the 2017 SUNU Pinot Noir (WWB, 91) which is sourced from a host of Willamette Valley vineyards and shows great freshness with a nice salinity. Even better was their 2017 SUNU ‘Shea Vineyard East Hill’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) which has a wonderful range of aromatics and flavors. Learn more about this exciting new Oregon project at https://www.sunuwines.com Here are the beautiful new Pinot Noir wines by SUNU.

2017 SUNU Pinot Noir- A brand new winery project by the talented Louis Skinner, the 2017 SUNU Pinot Noir is sourced from a host of great vineyard sites in the Willamette Valley. On the nose this shows a wonderful bouquet of wild mushroom to peat moss and smoky tones that combine with the bright red fruits that all combine marvelously in the glass. The freshness imparted on the mouth is wonderful as the wine slowly unveils bright guava, wild strawberry and earthy undertones with a light salinity towards the back end. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2017 SUNU ‘Guadalupe Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from this esteemed site in the Dundee Hills, the ‘Guadalupe Vineyard’ Pinot Noir opens with salted red fruits with smoky and hearth tones rounding out this beautiful nose. The palate has wonderful richness and texture as the wine delivers beautiful red and dark fruits with peat moss tones a beam of salinity that runs through the wine. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2017 SUNU ‘Saffron Fields Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Saffron Fields Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was aged for sixteen months in 50% new French oak prior to bottling. This 100% Pommard clone wine begins with aromatics of smoke with peat moss and forest floor tones that combine with black raspberry and shades of thyme on the nose. The mouthfeel is outstanding here as the wine shows gobs of mouth-watering acidity. Black cherry, black tea, black truffle shavings and shades of kumquat round out this complex palate. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2019-2032- 93

2017 SUNU ‘Shea Vineyard East Hill’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 ‘Shea Vineyard East Hill’ Pinot Noir is a stunning new wine from this outstanding Willamette Valley Vineyard. Entirely Wadensil clone, the wine begins with seriously good aromatic range from red rose petals to red raspberry and earthy and smoky undertone that all combine marvelously. The palate has great salinity, tension and richness. The freshness of the wine really drives forward here as bright red fruits mingle with citrus rind and peat moss toners on the palate. This is seriously good now and will only get better with some time. Drink 2019-2033- 93

2017 SUNU ‘Matteri Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Matteri Vineyard’ is a windswept site that is planted to Pinot Noir Dijon clones 115 and 117. On then nose this takes on shades of cherry cola, lavender, blood orange zest and peat moss that all develop nicely in the glass. The palate shows really good verve and richness, unveiling black tea, wild mushroom, saline soaked wild blackberry and sage tones that al mingle nicely together. While a delight to savor in its youth this will develop well or another ten to fifteen years. Drink 2019-2032- 92

DeLille Cellars

A few days ago I had the chance to visit DeLille Cellars and one of the great winemaking talents in Washington, Jason Gorski. DeLille is one of the longstanding Woodinville wineries that rose to prominence under eminent winemaker Chris Upchurch. DeLille Cellars was the first winery in Washington to focus on creating Bordeaux style wine blends and makes arguably the best Bordeaux style white wine in North America with its ‘Chaleur Blanc.’ DeLille sources from their estate, 20-acre vineyard in Red Mountain as well as premier vineyards in the Yakima Valley. I have been really impressed with this winery and what they have produced over the past five years. They soon will have their new winery built in what was formerly the Red Hook Brewery. I can’t wait to check out that modern facility which I toured a few months back.

Jason makes one of the top Rose wines in the Pacific Northwest, their 2018 DeLille Cellars Rose (WWB, 92) which has an amazing mouthfeel and wonderful layers of pretty red fruits. Their new 2017 DeLille Rousssanne (WWB, 93) is also one of the best in the state, showing wonderful melon tones and a beautiful viscosity on the palate. Do not miss out on their 2016 DeLille Cellars ‘Grand Ciel’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) which is rich, decadent and marvelous in its youth but has twenty or more years to go. Learn more about this fantastic winery at www.delillecellars.com Here are the great new release wines from DeLille.

2017 DeLille Cellars Roussanne- The 2017 Roussanne by DeLille Cellars is a spectacular effort by the talented Jason Gorski. On the nose there is really nice non-fruit aromas with wild mushroom and suggestions of macadamia nut that connect with the melon tones on the nose. The texture to this wine is really enticing as the wine delivers bright starfruit, brioche and marvelous earthy undertones with minerals. The mouth-watering acidity complete this beautiful bottling. Drink 2019-2025- 93

2017 DeLille Cellars ‘Chaleur Blanc’ White Wine- The 2017 ‘Chaleur Blanc’ is a spectacular effort from this exciting vintage for white wines. A blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc with the remainder Semillon, the wine shows better at a warmer temperature. The nose is impressive with tropical fruits that mingle with brilliant melon and nutty tones that resonate in the glass. The palate is showing a wonderful texture and viscosity, giving off an almost unctuous mouthfeel. The salinity really comes out when the wine is warmed up. Lemon zest and brioche flavors combine brilliantly with shades of banana and minerals. Hugely complex and satisfying, the exceedingly long finish lingers. This brilliant effort will evolve well over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 94

2017 DeLille Cellars ‘Metier’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Metier’ is a silky blend of Mourvedre, Grenache and Syrah with just a touch of Cinsault. The Grenache is quite prominent now with the high toned rede fruits with citrus rind, while the Mourvedre provides the smoky tones that round out the nose. The palate has a gorgeous mouthfeel and shows a savory edge that yields gobs of lip smacking acidity. The generous texture adds to the enjoyment. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2016 DeLille Cellars ‘Doyenne’ Red Wine- A blend of 60% Syrah with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon, the ‘Doyenne’ is entirely sourced from the Red Mountain AVA. The nose is powerful with dark fruits that mingle with sagebrush and earthy undertones with shades of chocolate. The palate has wonderful richness with chocolate and coffee ground flavors that mingle with minerals and dark fruits. Complex and delicious, this is exceedingly good at this juncture and will continue to evolve well over the next deacde. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2016 DeLille Cellars ‘Signature’ Syrah- The 2016 ‘Signature’ Syrah is another stunning new release by DeLille Cellars sourced from the Grand Ciel, Ciel du Cheval and Boushey Vineyards. On the nose there is really good range from sagebrush to milk chocolate and dark cherry cordial that all build in the glass. There is a wonderful decadence to this wine which unveils a great combination of mouthfeel and acidity. Black Forest Cake, mocha and anise flavors with dried herbal tones complete this fantastic wine. Drink this fantastic wine over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2015 DeLille Cellars ‘Grand Ciel’ Syrah- The 2015 ‘Grand Ciel’ Syrah shows off its inky color in the glass. Entirely sourced from this Red Mountain AVA wine, the ‘Grand Ciel’ opens with aromatics of mocha, tar and black fruits that all build int he glass. The palate is dense and seductive with black tea, creosote and blackberry compote flavors with hints of milk chocolate. This is seriously good now and will evolve well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2016 DeLille Cellars Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon- A blend of 71% Malbec with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon, this was entirely sourced from the Quintessence Vineyard. The winemaker had a few lots from the vineyard and chose a barrel selection based on what he felt best expressed the vineyard and vintage. The wine begins with aromas of blueberry pie with black tea and exotic spices that all commend your attention in the glass. The texture here is seriously good, providing a seductive and unctuous mouthfeel. Copious dark and blue fruits blend together with chocolate and exotic spices on the palate. Fantastic now, this will evolve well over the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2019-2035- 95

2016 DeLille Cellars ‘Four Flags’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Four Flags’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a barrel selection wine which was sourced from the four vineyards in Red Mountain. The nose here is seriously good with herbal tones that mingle with blackberry compote, mocha and shades of iodine that run through this complex nose. The wine shows a beautiful expression of Cabernet Sauvignon with the lighter sagebrush and black tea tones alongside milk chocolate, anise and creme de cassis flavors. Complex and delicious in its youth, this beautiful wine will cellar well for decades. Drink 2019-2035- 94

2016 DeLille Cellars ‘Lot 3’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Lot 3’ is sourced entirely from the Klipsun Vineyard in the Red Mountain AVA. The Cabernet was aged for 18 months in 100% new French oak prior to bottling. The wine saw some extended maceration during the fermentation process. Heady aromatics greet you with black cherry cordial, mocha and tar that fill the nose. The palate is exceedingly dense and decadent with black tea, asian spices, mocha and copious dark fruits. Exceedingly good in its youth, this will evolve well over the next two decades. Drink 2019-2040- 95

2016 DeLille Cellars ‘Lot 4’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine is sourced from the Discovery Vineyard. On the nose this takes on simply gorgeous tones. Beautiful rose petals connect with dried herbs, mocha, and milk chocolate with cassis undertones that all collide on this expressive nose. The palate has wonderful concentration and poise, with dense black fruit and herbal tones that exude class. This finishes exceedingly long. Enjoy this fantastic new bottling for the next two decades. Drink 2019-2040- 95

2016 DeLille Cellars ‘Harrison Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 ‘Harrison Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon ifs another sensational effort by superstar winemaker Jason Gorski. On the nose this shows gorgeous aromatics of dried sagebrush, crushed mint and copious dark fruits with a touch of anise that all collect momentum in the glass. The palate is plush, revealing a wonderful decadence as light tannins frame the wine. Mocha, anise and creme de cassis with sagebrush tones all collide once in the mouth, with a lithe sense of minerality. Dense and decadent, yet showing a wonderful elegance, this beautiful wine will cellar well for the next two decades. Drink 2020-2040- 95

2016 DeLille Cellars ‘Chaleur Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 ‘Chaleur Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning effort from this warm vintage in Washington. On the nose this takes on lovely herbal aromatics that resolve with copious dark fruits that fill the glass. The palate has light tannins and amazing elegance as there is a seamless quality that runs through the wine. Mocha, anise, cassis and blackberry cobbler with a nice salinity that runs through the wine. The balance is wonderful here. Enjoy this over the next two decades. Drink 2020-2040- 95

2015 DeLille Cellar ‘Grand Ciel’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 ‘Grand Ciel’ Cabernet Sauvignon is another stunning Red Mountain AVA bottling by the talented Jason Gorski. densely colored, the ‘Grand Ciel’ opens with seductive aromatics of sagebrush, red bell pepper, tar and suggestions of blackberry compote that all shine in the glass. The palate is exceptionally dense and plush with mocha, tar, anise and sagebrush tones that all impress. While obviously quite rich, this has a wonderful elegance. Enjoy this fantastic new wine over the next two decades. Drink 2020-2040- 95

Château Coutet Retrospective

One of the great dessert wines of the world, Château Coutet is one of two premier cru class estates located in Barsac. Shortly after graduating from college I first sampled their 1998 Château Coutet — a wine that was simply magical considering the challenges of the vintage. What sets Château Coutet above many of its peers is their incredible pursuit of crafting stunning wines in the most challenging of conditions. Speaking with their talented winemaker, he talked about how he was forced to set fire in his vineyard in 2017 in order to save part of his crop from the cold. The end result ended up being quite transformative. 

Today, Aline Baly is the third of her generation to join the family business as she serves as co-owner of Château Coutet. The Baly family has run since 1977. The quality of wines have become quite evident since Aline has joined the frame. Aline has an MBA from the Kellogg School of Management in Chicago and has brought her marketing and business talents to managing Coutet. 

Château Coutet wines age incredibly well, as I have had several of these bottling back to the 1980s. There is a certain elegance to these wines that impresses me. Great vintages such as 2007 and 2011 show a wonderful degree of opulence as well alongside the bright minerality. If you have never tried any older Château Coutet, I implore you to seek these wines out. I recently had the chance to visit their famed estate and taste with their winemaker, who has previously worked in Napa and had never worked with dessert wines prior to coming to Château Coutet. He is doing a sensational job with his latest set of new releases. Over the past few months I not only have had the chance to visit Coutet but also try several of their older wines with friends and through my personal collection. Here are my notes from the sensational wines from Château Coutet that I have tasted both at their chateau and over the several months as part of my vertical.

1989 Château Coutet Barsac- This is the second time in several years that I have enjoyed this wine. The bottle that I enjoyed at Château Coutet with their winemaker showed quite a bit better than the first bottle that I purchased at auction. The ’89 Coutet nose is quite evolved with a bit of oxidation. Honey and ripe pineapple with apricot aromas come together with nutmeg accents. The palate shows really good richness and intensity which makes it difficult to believe this wine is thirty years old, Apricot marmalade, ripe pineapple, creme brûlée and butterscotch flavors come together in the glass with wild mushroom undertones. Showing serious range and intensity, this gorgeous wine has a minute long finish that completes the package. Drink 2019-2035- 96

1997 Château Coutet Barsac- The 1997 Château Coutett is drinking marvelously at more than twenty years of age.Taken from this great vintage in Sauternes, this opens with wonderful marzipan, lemon cream, kumquat and pineapple aromas that all connect vividly in the glass. The palate shows a silky texture and wonderful viscosity. The freshness and elegance of this wine is compelling as tertiary notes are settling in on the palate with wild mushroom that collide with the stony undertones. Vanilla creme brûlée and lemon curd with mango flavors all are mingling nicely now. While this is showing beautifully now, this still has another decade to go. Drink 2019-2029- 94

2003 Château Coutet Barsac- Tasted from a 1.5L, the 2003 Château Coutet is a revelation in this warm vintage. The bouquet of honey and vanilla creme brûlée with butterscotch infused pineapple accents gives this an exotic edge. Hugely viscous, this downright massive Sauternes shows an incredibly rich texture, leading to an exceedingly long cream and mineral-driven finish. This 2005 is just a massive contrast to the ’05 Coutet. While not lacking in weight, this beautiful wine still has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2019-2032- 95

2005 Château Coutet Barsac- The 2005 Château Coutett is a silky blend of 75% Semillon with 23% Sav Blanc and 2% Muscadelle. Sourced from their limestone based soil, the wine was aged 18 months (70% new) in French oak. I love the elegance imparted on the nose as this opens with aromas of bananas foster, creme brulee, golden delicious apple and vanilla cream and shades of star jasmine. There are flavors of lemon/lime, creme brulee, butterscotch, and candied Meyer lemon. This is incredibly balanced and has a dry, saline streak. This seamless wine will drink brilliantly into the next decade. Drink 2019-2032- 95

2006 Château Coutet Barsac- The nose here shines with persimmon and apricot jelly with creme brûlée tones. Showing off an unctuous character the wine has a good freshness that runs through with not the richness of other vintages of Coutet but the 2006 still shows solid concentration. Vanilla creme brulee, marzipan, beeswax and ripe pineapple flavors all come together nicely in the glass. While not my favorite vintage of this wine, this is showing nicely right now and will cellar well for another decade. Drink 2019-2026- 92

2007 Château Coutet Barsac- The 2007 Château Coutet is only an infant at more than ten years old. While drinking quite young, this elegant wine is absolutely dazzling in its youth. On the nose this takes on lemon zest with candied ginger, ripe pineapple and lighter earthy undertones that all build in the glass. The palate is rich and viscous with a wonderful sense of minerality. Bright mango with vanilla cream, pineapple and shades of nutmeg infused golden delicious apple flavors all magically appear together, shining brightly. Seriously good at the twelve year mark, this will only get better with some time in the bottle. Drink 2020-2035- 95

2009 Château Coutet Barsac- This was the winemaker’s first vintage at Château Coutet as this gorgeous bottling was enjoyed at the winery. The nose shows really good petrol elements with pineapple with beeswax, ginger and apricot jelly. The texture is seriously good with moderate sweetness. Roasted pineapple upside down cake flavors with honey and raison coming in complete this beautiful ten year old wine that shows good verve. Fresh and intense, this has an exceedingly long finish for nearly a minute. Seductive and bright, this will have a long life in the cellar. Drink 2019-2039- 95

2011 Château Coutet Barsac- The 2011 Château Coutet is a remarkable wine that still needs some time to fully evolve. That said, it is stunning wine to enjoy in its youth. A beam of wet stone and salinity runs through the palate, showing a plush texture and dazzling sense of minerality. Ripe mango, vanilla bean creme brûlée and candied ginger flavors are all delighting the senses at this stage in development. Try to resist this seriously good bottling for at least another three to five more years. Drink 2023-2040- 94

2014 Château Coutet Barsac- The 2014 Château Coutet is nowhere near being ready but it still a delight to savor in its youth. On the nose this takes on quite complex aromas of butterscotch, nutmeg and ripe pineapple with ginger and mango accents that all collide once in the glass. The palate has a wonderful tension and light salinity that runs through the wine. Highly elegant, this leads with tropical and orchard fruit flavors with butterscotch and creme brûlée flavors rounding out the palate. Enjoy this beautiful wine in the next five plus years. Drink 2023-2040- 94