Friends, as we near our United States Independence Day, I felt that an article on top champagne would be a great way to ring in another fantastic July 4th. Over the past few months I have been fortunate enough to enjoy some top champagnes from select bottlings like Krug, Dom Perignon, Jacques Selosse, Cristal, Salon and several others. I admittedly have enjoyed a special affinity for champagne since I was quite young and was lucky to be exposed to the likes of Veuve Cliquot and Dom Perignon at quite an early stage in my wine learning. These were some monumental educative moments for me.
As I grew older and my palate continued to expand, I came to love the incredible nuance of a great champagne. Over the past few months I have been sharing these special wines mostly on special occasions with friends and loved ones. The wines are so special I simply cannot resist taking tasting notes that are reflections of a wonderful moment in time. Here are some of my tasting notes from some of what are truly some of the Titans of Champagne.
Jacquesson
1996 Jacquesson ‘Avize Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut’ Champagne- The 1996 Jacquesson ‘Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut’ is a sensational effort at new twenty three years of age. Showing off it’s golden-brown hue, the Champagne is showing good range with the nutty and earthy character, gently woven into the nutmeg infused baked apple and Challah bread aromatics that al dazzle in the glass. The mouthfeel is soft upon the attack as this ‘96 is offering wonderful tertiary with salted macadamia nut, and damp earth notes that mingle with unripe green apple, and citrus rind accents. Seriously good now, this beautiful Champagne will continue to evolve well for the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 94
Krug
NV Krug ‘Grand Cuvee’ (159EME Edition) Champagne- The NV ‘159EME’ Grand Cuvee’ was largely composed of wines sourced from the challenging 2003 vintage in Champagne. Released in, the ‘159EME’ is drinking magically at this stage in its development. One the nose this takes on good take from salted rice cracker to lemon zest that all mingle with the lovely damp earth and flinty tones that all connect in the glass. The weight is formidable once on the mouth, giving off an unctuous texture. The flinty, almost petrol tones also show up on the impressive palate, with baked Bosc pear, lemon curd, shiitake mushroom and shades of kumquat. This is absolutely irresistible stuff from Krug and the warm, highly difficult 2003 vintage as the Champagne will provide drinking enjoyment over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 95
NV Krug ‘Grand Cuvee’ (166EME Edition) Champagne- A total stunner, the Krug '166EME' is a blend of 140 wines ranging from vintages 1996-2010. The wine spent seven years in the cellar before disgorgement in Winter 2016-17. Blending for the wine was crafted near harvest in 2010 with the final edition being 45% Pinot Noir, 39% Chardonnay and 16% Pinot Meunier. The wine shows dizzying light bubbles in the glass, showcasing aromatics of lemon oil infused sourdough bread with nutty and earthy undertones that entice on the nose. The palate is bright and refreshing, showing tremendous the verve and elegance that the ‘Grand Cuvée’ is truly known for. Highly complex, this displays shades of marzipan, citrus zest, macadamia nut, baked bread and undertones of peat moss that line the high tones. Precise and utterly delicious to the last drop, this magnificent wine is showing remarkably well now, but should continue to dazzle for the next two decades or more. Drink 2019-2040- 97
NV Krug ‘Grand Cuvee’ (167EME Edition) Champagne- The 'Grande Cuvée' 167ÈME Edition from Krug is a simply sensational effort that is drinking marvelously now, but is ultimately destined for an exceedingly long life in the cellar. This particular wine was disgorged in Spring 2017 and is a blend of 191 wines ranging from vintages 1995-2011. The aromatics show wonderful mustiness, white truffle and peat moss with bright nectarine rind, toasted macadamia nut, kumquat, marzipan and a lovely nutty character all build in the glass. The brightness and intensity on the palate excites with wonderful weight, textural richness as well as a dazzling minerality. Mouth-watering acidity accompanies this beautiful Champagne with lemon zest, wild mushroom and ginger infused sourdough bread flavors with diatomaceous earth undertones all impress. Am absolute stunner, this brilliant Chamagne is glorious now and should go on to evolve and drink beautifully over the next two decades. Drink 2019-2040- 97
2003 Krug Champagne- The 2003 Krug vintage Champagne is a stunning wine from this warm and somewhat challenging vintage. This is definitely one of the best (if not the finest) Champagnes I’ve sampled from the 2003 vintage. Aromatics of intense kumquat skin, honeydew melon, with earthy and smoky undertones all entice the senses once in the glass. The weight and freshness is stunning. Marzipan, and lemon cream are all beautifully woven together with shades of white truffle shavings. This has a wonderful effervescence and seamless quality, with formidable weight. The exceedingly long finish lingers. Outstanding now, this both the verve and viscosity to cellar well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 95
Moet & Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’
1996 Moet & Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’ Champagne- The 1996 Dom Pérignon is a revelation at now twenty three years of age. On the nose this takes on some spectacular range from Challah bread tones to lemon zest as well as Pink Lady apple and candied ginger. Once on the attack this shows formidable weight and tension, while this seamless wine effortlessly dances across the mid-palate. Ripe Japanese pear, brioche, lemon zest and wild mushroom flavors collide with the strong salinity and minerality. A true heavyhitter, this wine has many rounds left to fight, but is simply intoxicating at this stage in its development. Drink 2019-2040- 98
1998 Moet & Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’ Champagne- I absolutely adore the 1998 Dom Pérignon at this stage in development, as this was a marvelous surprise to see how balanced and seductive this wine is now. Showing a slightly lower viscosity than the ’96, the 1998 Dom Pérignon greets you with a wonderfully nutty and musty bouquet, followed by great tension and linear progression on the mid-palate. The wonderful sense of freshness complements the nutty, wild mushroom, peat moss and orchard fruit flavors. This has a wonderful saline streak that runs through the exceedingly long finish. While marvelous now, this has at least fifteen years left. Drink 2019-2035- 97
2006 Moet & Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’ Champagne- The 2006 Dom Pérignon is a wonderfully developed Champagne at this stage in its development. 2006 was blessed with near perfect weather at harvest, following an excellent growing season. The production team at Moet & Chandon continue to produce some of the best Champagne in the world and the brilliant 2006 Dom Pérignon is no exception. This wine begins with aromas of brioche, porcini mushroom, gala apple and banana. Once on the mouth there are ripe red delicious apple, toasted macadamia nut, Meyer lemon rind, and Japanese pear flavors that combine with the peat moss undertones. The wine has a wonderful combination of weight and acidity, with a silky mousse and gorgeous texture. The earthy components to this blending beautifully complement the citrus fruit. While the 2006 Dom Pérignon is showing marvelously at the thirteen year mark but it still has more than a decade to go. Drink 2019-2033- 95
2008 Moet & Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’ Champagne- The 2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne is a stunning wine that showcases this outstanding vintage. Released after the '09 edition, the 2008 is the last vintage released by cave de chef Vincent Chaperon before he retired at the end of 2018. What was a very cool vintage, 2008 saw perfect conditions at harvest which led to very ripe berries. At the present the ripeness is quite evident on the nose with bright marigold flowers with kumquat and shades of nectarine rind alongside the lemon infused brioche accents that all build in the glass. The palate is round, yet tightly wound, delivering a nice sense of decadence. Bright Pink Lady apple, lemon zest and Challah bread all combine brilliantly with a good sense of salinity on the palate. While remarkable in its youth, this really needs at least a year or two of bottle age to fully come together and show its full potential. That being said, this clearly has the potential to evolve an become an all-time classic vintage for Dom Pérignon. Drink 2020-2040- 97
2009 Moet & Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’ Champagne- The 2009 Dom Pérignon is a simply fabulous effort from a challenging vintage in Champagne. The musty and earthy aromatics grab you straight away followed by wild mushrooms, brioche, poached pear and toasted hazelnut aromatics that impress. Incredibly balanced and with remarkable finesse, this showcases flavors of lemon zest, baked apple and marzipan with biscuit. Today this is just a touch youthful, needing some additinonal time to develop. Nonetheless this is a simply gorgeous Champagne with marvelous cellaring potential. Try to hold off on this stunner for at least two years. Disgorged in June 2016. Drink 2020-2040- 95
Louis Roederer
2008 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Brut Champagne- The 2008 'Cristal' Champagne is an absolutely magical effort from cellar master Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon, who has crafted a simply dazzling wine from this sensational vintage. Composed of 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay the 2008 was bottle-aged for 8 years before being left to rest for at least 8 months after disgorging. This beautiful Champagne begins with highly perfumed aromatics, offering a gorgeous combination of musty and earthy tones up front, followed by white truffle shavings, peat moss, brioche and bright pear nuances that complete the exotic nose. Streamlined throughout, this shows incredible precision and clarity, as well as an unmistakable a seamless quality that makes it nearly impossible to resist. It goes on to impress with its incredible verve and energy, as well as racy acidity, which is all underlined by a remarkable saline character that echos through the palate. This continues to deliver an outstanding combination of weight and effervescence as flavors of Asian pear, marzipan, Marcona almond and kumquat all come together to delight the senses. The 2008 is truly one of the most compelling releases that I’ve ever had the opportunity to taste from this house. Although it is already utterly scintillating in its youth, this will ultimately need some more time in bottle, nonetheless its pedigree and potential are extremely evident. Drink 2020-2045- 98
2009 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Brut Champagne- The 2009 'Cristal' is a completely stunning Champagne which impresses with its polish, complexity, weight and silky mousse. The brightness is wonderful with intense lemon zest and kumquat aromatics that all mingle in the glass. The freshness really shows beautifully on the mid-palate, showing not only good weight but intense orchard fruits that mingle with the wet stone, and high-toned citrus zest accents. I love the silky mouthfeel that adds to the wonderful experience. This is settling in after some time after release. Drink 2019-2035- 95
Pol Roger
2008 Pol Roger ‘Sir Winston Churchill’ Champagne- A simply magical 2008 Champagne, the 2008 ‘Sir Winston Churchill’ Champagne is a revelation from this dazzling vintage. The wine entices right away, showing lemon infused biscuit with shades of wild mushroom and baked pear aromatics that all mingle brightly in the glass. The palate shows incredible verve and freshness with a bright sense of effervescence and a silky soft texture. Once on the attack, the palate leads with bright bright lemon zest and green apple tones that collide with mushroom, peat moss and hints of freshly baked brioche. While outstanding now, this really needs another year of bottle age prior to being enjoyed. One thing is certain — the 2008 ‘Sir Winston Churchill’ will be exceedingly long lived. Drink 2020-2035- 96
Salon
1999 Salon ‘Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 'Cuvée S’ Champagne- The 1999 Salon ‘S Blanc de Blancs Cuvee S’ Champagne is a magical wine that is sinfully good at twenty years of age. Disgorged in 2011 this wine leads the way with an extraordinarily good nose of salted praline with shades of wet stone, damp earth and bright citrus fruits that all mingle marvelously in the glass. The silky mousse captivates the senses. Bright green apple and kumquat flavors connect with diatomaceous earth, and shades of white truffle on the palate. The freshness here is quite extraordinary. While delightful now, this one of a kind Champagne will provide drinking satisfaction for at least another fifteen years. Drink 2019-2039- 97
2004 Salon ‘Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 'Cuvée S’ Champagne- The 2004 Salon Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 'Cuvée S' is an extraordinary bottle of Champagne. Scintillating and absolutely dazzling this instanly impresses as the wine takes on beautiful salinity that combines with aromas of citrus zest, ripe pear, toasted hazelnut and mulberry aromas that simply radiate in the glass. This utterly riveting Champagne is full-bodied on the palate, with vibrant acidity, and a gorgeous fine silky mousse that glides gracefully through the mid-palate and awakens the senses. Pink Lady apple, wild mushrooms, kumquat and salted wet stone flavors all combibe to show serious range. Already at fourteen years of age, this seductive Champagne still has plenty to offer and can certinaly endure additional cellaring. Overall, this is a simply brilliant Champagne that will continue to provide drinking pleaseure for many years to come. Drink 2020-2040- 99
2007 Salon ‘Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 'Cuvée S’ Champagne- One of the storied Champagne houses, first formed in 1905, Salon has produced another stunning release to add to their long list of legendary wines. This Champagne is produced from a one-hectare parcel owned by Salon: "Salon’s garden", along with 19 other smaller parcels in Mesnil-sur-Oger, which were chosen by Aimé Salon at the beginning of the century. The 2007 'Cuvée S' was given 5 g/l dosage. Golden in color, this fabulous bottling displays remarkable salinity on the nose, showing overt diatomaceous earth. White rose, with Challah bread, and Gravenstein apple aromatics complete this outstanding vintage Champagne. The mousse is thick and viscous, as it beautifully coats the mid-palate. Lazer focused and intense, marked by flavors lemon oil, nectarine rind, sour apple and suggestions of sourdough bread flavors all brightly align. This is a age-worthy Champagne which will likely need another two plus years of bottle age before it begins to show its best. Drink 2020-2040- 97
Jacques Selosse
NV Jacques Selosse ‘Initial’ Champagne- Disgorged in 2013, the Jacques Selosse ‘Initial’ Champagne is a simply ethereal wine that is a revelation at this stage in its development. The wine is a blend of three consecutive vintages, and is entirely comprised of grand cru vineyard Chardonnay. The Champagne shows incredible toasted hazelnut with lemon oil and wild mushroom notes that fill this slightly intoxicating bouquet. The palate is silky smooth and glides across the frame. The texture is downright sexy as melon and lemon oil with toasted hazelnut and peat moss tones mingle with minerals on this dazzling palate. The exceedingly long finish lingers long. Simply magical now this has a very long life head of it. Drink 2019-2037- 96