Rochioli

One of the great producers of California Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Tom Rochioli traces his family heritage back to some of the area’s first plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon. In 1959 his father and grandfather planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc which was a great learning experience. The Cabernet did not grow well at the location and was pulled out in the 1970s.  However, the Sauvignon Blanc planted remained a resounding success. Today these same vines are still in production and are considered some of the oldest Sauvignon Blanc vines in California. Inspired by the wines of Burgundy, Tom’s father planted Pinot Noir in 1968, as he likened the cool climate to Burgundy.

The Rochiolis began selling their grapes to Bynum winery in the 1970s and then later Williams Selyem in the 1980s but Tom was inspired to make his own wines. Then in 1987 they released their first estate wine. He also has been selling Chardonnay to David Ramey for several years. Utilizing a minimalistic style of winemaking, Rochioli focuses on individual blocks of wine that show subtle differences in fruit and terroir. Their new releases were some of the best that I have sampled from the Russian River in the past year. Look to their outstanding 2017 Rochioli ‘River Block’ Chardonnay (WWB, 95) which delights with its vibrant sense of minerality and tension with tropical fruits. Just as good was their 2015 Rochioli ‘Little Hill’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 94) which is decadent and has beautiful dark and cola tones that mingle with the racy acidity. Learn more about these outstanding wines at http://www.rochioliwinery.com Here are the great new wines by Rochioli. 

2017 Rochioli ‘Estate Russian River Valley’ Chardonnay- The 2017 Rochioli ‘Estate Russian River Valley’ Chardonnay shows intense green melon with sourdough bread and lemon zest that all mingle on the nose. The weight and texture of the wine really drive through, leading to a long, cream and mineral-driven finish. Enjoy this fantastic bottling over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2017 Rochioli ‘South River’ Chardonnay- The ‘South River’ Chardonnay was aged for eight months in French oak prior to bottling. The nose is seriously good with ripe lemon cream, Challah bread and shades of salted praline that all combine marvelously together in the glass. The wonderful combination of mid-palate weight and astringency really works here. Lemon oil, minerals and shades of kumquat all shine brightly on the palate. Enjoy this fantastic new bottling over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2032- 94

2017 Rochioli ‘River Block’ Chardonnay- Quite different than the ‘South River’ bottling, the ‘River Block’ opens with intense tropical fruits that combine with tones of kumquat rind and green apple and wet stone in this absolutely intoxicating nose. The palate reveals a silky texture and an oily, almost unctuous mouthfeel. Despite the obvious mid-palate richness, the wine unveils a seamless quality that runs through the wine. Ripe pineapple, banana, golden delicious apple and saline infused lemon flavors all dance together in harmony. A delight to savor in its youth, this beautiful wine will cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 95

2017 Rochioli ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 Rochioli ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir is a seriously good new wine from this storied estate. Aged for fifteen months in French oak prior to bottling, this starts off with bright guava puree with red currant jelly and shades of black truffle on this complex nose. The palate unveils a delightfully soft and enticing mouthfeel. Bright acidity and minerals mingle with cinnamon infused red cherry and shades of cola on the palate. Vibrant and intense for an entry level bottling, this beautiful wine will cellar for a decade. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2017 Rochioli ‘Little Hill’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Little Hill’ is an outstanding effort in this downright killer new lineup of bottlings by Rochioli. Cran-orange aromatics mingle with shades of peat moss and cherry cola that all combine brilliantly and build in the glass. There is good freshness and verve on the mid-palate, also unlocking a silky texture. Ripe red fruits dance with minerals, forest floor and lighter citrus rind accents on the palate. Beautifully balanced and elegant, this outstanding new Pinot Noir will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2033- 94

2017 Rochioli ‘Sweetwater’ Pinot Noir- The Sweet Water Vineyard is the highest elevation at the Rochioli Estate Vineyard. Aromatically quite intense, this takes on cherry cola with shades of black truffle and Umami aromas that all mingle brightly in the glass. The texture to the wine is seriously good, as is the lovely beam of salinity the runs through the wine. Bright guava puree, Yakima cherry preserves and shades of cinnamon and clove all mingle together on the palate. Fresh and energetic with great tension, this beautiful wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2035- 94

WALT Wines

One of the up and coming California producers of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, WALT was named after Kathryn’s parents, Bob and Dolores Walt who were originally vintners and were a source of daily inspiration for her. WALT Wines sources from some Pacific Coast's most distinctive vineyards from Sonoma to Oregon. I have been blown away with the increase in quality int the wines over the past several years. In particular, I am continually impressed with the wines that are sourced from their estate vineyard, Bob’s Ranch, which is located in the Petaluma Wind Gap near Sebastapol. This site was purchased by the HALLs and has been producing some absolutely epic Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that rivals anything out of Sonoma. What is so great about their wine program is the variety of vineyard sites and terroir that they are able to impart in the glass. Few wineries can craft wines that are so different in their portfolio and the range of flavors and terroir is massive from the wines out of the Shea Vineyard in the Willamette Valley to the aforementioned Bob’s Ranch in Sonoma. Not only is this a very fun concept for those visiting the tasting room but it is highly education for those who are learning about how terroir affects Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The new wines were sensational across the board. I absolutely loved their new 2018 WALT Rose (WWB, 91) which is very pretty, high toned and has lovely texture. The 2017 WALT ‘Bob’s Ranch’ Chardonnay (WWB, 94) is dense, layered and has gobs of minerality. This is a stunning effort from this vineyard. Even better was the 2017 WALT ‘Bob’s Ranch’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) which is a massive wine that is only starting to develop in the bottle. Chewy, with intense red and dark fruit flavors, this is one for any serious collector of California Pinot Noir. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://www.waltwines.com Here are the beautiful new wines by WALT.

2018 WALT Rose- Very pretty aromatics mark this wine with shades of nectarine and red rose petals. The freshness and tension is wonderful as delicate red fruits mingle with shades of mandarin orange zest. Drink 2019-2023- 91

2017 WALT ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from the Carneros AVA this wine was aged in 40% French oak prior to bottling. Butterscotch and toasted hazelnut aromas with lemon curd mark the nose. The sense of balance is gorgeous as a beam of salinity races through the bright orchard fruits with lemon cream. The texture imparted is outstanding. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2017 WALT Bob’s Ranch Chardonnay- The Bob’s Ranch Vineyard was purchased by the Halls in 2014 and located in the heart of the Petaluma Wind Gap on highway 116 just south of Sebastapol.  The Chardonnay is primarily Wente clone which produces mostly small berries. There are thirty different blocks there, with roughly a third planted to Chardonnay. This limited production wine opens with bright aromas of ripe pear and shades of peat moss and nutmeg infused Challah Brad that all mingle on the nose. The palate is plush, showing a gorgeous texture. Deep lemon cream and sourdough bread with shades of clove all mingle brightly on the palate. Drink 2019-2029- 94

2016 WALT ‘Shea Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from this famed Oregon site, the 2016 ‘Shea Vineyard’ Pinot Noir shows classic Oregon Pinot Noir notes on the nose with high toned red fruits, blood orange and peat moss tones on the nose. The palate has incredible texture and a seamless quality with bright red cherry pie and forest floor flavors that collide with minerals. Fantastic now this will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 94

2017 WALT ‘The Corners’ Pinot Noir- Sourced entirely from the 35 acre ‘The Corners’Vineyard’ this wine is from the rocky hillsides at the vineyard. This is showing nicely now and has al long way to go. The 2017 ‘The Corners’ Pinot Noir shows a wonderful saline streak which connects with the bright red fruits and citrus rind accents on the nose. The palate is plush delivering ripe red fruits that connect with minerals and cola flavors. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2017 WALT ‘Blue Jay’ Pinot Noir- his is sourced from the WALT estate vineyards, the Anderson Creek Vineyard and the Donnely Creek Vineyards right outside of the town of Booneville. The vineyards are known for huge diurnal shifts with morning fog. This Anderson Valley Pinot Noir opens with ripe strawberry, guava and shades of blood orange set on the nose. The palate is plush and decadent with ripe red fruits with shades of peat moss and guava purée dominating. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2017 WALT ‘Bob’s Ranch’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Bob’s Ranch’ Pinot Noir is a stunning new wine by WALT, and shining brightly amongst the best wines that I have tasted from this great producer. The cherry cola and black tea elements are powerful with shades of life err on the nose. The wine is incredible dense with a massive core. Dark fruits mingle with cherry cola and cinnamon flavors with peat moss undertones. The seriously good mouthfeel entices, as does the vibrant minerality.  While exciting and highly satisfying in its youth, this outstanding wine will evolve well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2033- 95

2017 WALT ‘Santa Rita Hills’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 WALT ‘Santa Rita Hills’ is sourced from multiple vineyards within this AVA. A brilliant whiff of salinity greets you aromatically as the wine shows bright red fruits that mingle with shades of kumquat rind and earthy undertones that build in the glass. The palate shows off a silky texture and wonderfully soft mouthfeel. Black tea, exotic spices and shades of cran-raspberry puree all mingle together nicely on the palate. A delight to enjoy in its youth, the wine will show well for another decade. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2017 WALT ‘Rita’s Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Rita’s Crown Vineyard’ was sold three years ago from William Hill to Sea Smoke and is located adjacent to the Mount Carmel Vineyard and is a steep hillside with silty ocean floor soils with diatomaceous earth. The brightness and salinity on the nose entices as the wine engages with black and red fruits that mingle with spice box undertones. The palate shows good freshness and a wonderfully soft texture. Black tea, exotic spices, blackberry and shades of cran-pomegranate combine with the diatomaceous earth undertones. While this is drinking beautifully now, this complex and delicious Pinot Noir will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2017 WALT ‘Clos Pepe Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Clos Pepe Vineyard’ is a small site located near the town of Lompoc, as this highly windy terrain is largely planted to Pinot Noir. The bouquet is simply gorgeous with deep dark and red fruits that mingle with shades of cinnamon, clove and blood orange zest that all build on the nose. The wonderful salinity of the wine is incredible, accompanying deep dark and red fruits that mingle with underbrush and citrus rind accents. This is sensational stuff. Drink 2019-2032- 94

Parabellum

One of the outstanding talents in Washington State Wine, Todd Alexander left his position as winemaker for Bryant Family to move north and partner with Force Majeure Vineyards. It has now been five years since Todd has been at the helm for Force Majeure and his wines have already made their mark with serious critical acclaim. Trying his Force Majeure wines in January I was absolutely blown away with the consistency and the combination of mouthfeel, deep dark fruit flavors and texture that he was able to impart in his wines. The wines are rich and decadent but have lovely finesse as well. The Force Majeure Vineyard is gaining great national acclaim as it ages. This Red Mountain Vineyard has eight distinct soil types that are divided into small “micro-blocks,” as this steep vineyard ranges in elevation from 960 to 1,230 feet. The rocky upper-slope with shallow soil is well suited to Syrah and Grenache, while the lower blocks of the vineyard are comprised of deep, well-drained Warden soils, where Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc thrive.

I recently had the chance to check out the new pre-release wines by Parabellum and they were gorgeous across the board. The 2017 Parabellum ‘Alluvio’ Red Wine (WWB, 93) shows a nice touch of St. Emillion with its lovely Cabernet Franc herbal tones, while displaying wonderful richness and viscosity. Just as good was the 2017 Parabellum ‘Coulee’ Red Wine (WWB, 93) which has great smoky tones and shows wonderful range and texture. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/wp/wines/parabellum/ Here are the great new wines by Parabellum.

2017 Parabellum ‘Alluvio’ Red Wine-   The 2017 ‘Alluvio’ is an alluring blend of 60% Cabernet Franc with 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and the remainder Petit Verdot. Toasty oak wraps around dark fruits, graphite and sagebrush tones on this expressive nose. The palate is plush, round and inviting, delivering copious dark fruit flavors that collide wit the milk chocolate, sagebrush, cherry tomato and dusty minerals. This is exceedingly good, highly viscous and gratifying wine now as the ‘Alluvio’ will provide drinking enjoyment for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2017 Parabellum ‘Coulee’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Coulee’ Red Wine is a fantastic blend of 86% Syrah with the remainder Mourvedre that was all sourced from the esteemed Force Majeure Vineyard in the Red Mountain AVA.  Tobacco leaf and smoky undertones collide with suggestions of green peppercorns and smoked black olives that all take shape together in the glass. The soft texture entices as the black and blue fruits mingle with minerals, black tea and chocolate covered brandy soaked kirsch flavors. This is seriously good by superstar winemaker Todd Alexander. Drink 2019-2029- 93

Cayuse Vineyards 'God Only Knows’ Red Wine

As I write this, it shocks me how few wine writers write about the ‘God Only Knows.' Not to be negative, but that to be quite a shame. I try not to keep track of other reviews of the wines I try, but sometimes it is hard not to. It absolutely floors me that the ‘God Only Knows’ does not consistently receive higher scores from other wine reviewers. As someone who reviews roughly two thousand wines each year, the question becomes what wine is better than the ‘God Only Knows’ in terms of novelty, flavor/aromatic range, texture, and tension?  Simply put, the ‘God Only Knows’ is in a league of its own and it is truly the one of best Grenache wines in the world, rivaling that of Rayas, Clos du Pape, Pegau and Beaucastel. While I love Sin Que Non Grenache and its viscous, seductive style, I do not think that it is able to attain this level of aromatic and flavor range.

I had the chance to taste the 2016 Cayuse ‘God Only Knows’ Red Wine (WWB, 99) on two occasions. Both times I embarked on a mind-bending voyage into the stony terroir of Christophe Baron’s playground. I am consistently floored with the aromatic and flavor range imparted with this stunning bottling. These wines can be very difficult to find, and are only sold online on auction or through the Cayuse mailing list. Learn more about these wines at https://cayusevineyards.com/static/ Here is my review of the scintillating 2016 Cayuse Vineyards ‘God Only Knows’ Red Wine.

2016 Cause Vineyards ‘God Only Knows’ Red Wine ($100.00)- The 2016 ‘God Only Knows’ Red Wine is a magical, one of a kind wine, that flirts with perfection. The wine was entirely aged in neutral barrels prior to bottling. The nose is gratifying and intoxicating with red rose petals that mingle with guava puree, Hoisin sauce, green peppercorns, Umami and white truffle that all sing in the glass. The aromatic range imparted is just remarkable. The texture is hugely gratifying as this silky wine effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Impeccably balanced, the Grenache displays seaweed, blood orange zest, black truffle shavings, and guava puree with a bright minerality and stony character that all all evolve on the palate. The exceedingly long finish lingers. While a delight to savor at this juncture, this beautiful new wine will evolve well over the next decade. Tasted twice with consistent notes. Drink 2019-2029- 99

Interview with Allen Shoup, Founder of Long Shadows Vintners

One of the legends of Washington wine, Allen Shoup is the former CEO of Chateau Ste. Michelle who founded one of the great wine projects in North America, Long Shadows Vintners. Allen was an innovator at Chateau Ste. Michelle. During his illustrious career there he held 70% or more market share for Ste. Michelle which is a remarkable feat. Allen is a delightful person to chat wine with and I think you will really love hearing more about his illustrious career in the Washington Wine Industry. Here is my exclusive interview with Allen Shoup, Founder of Long Shadows Vintners.

WWB: How did you decide to come to Chateau Ste. Michelle?

AS: When I came to Chateau Ste. Michelle in 1980, the company was facing multiple problems. In 1979, a newly planted, 2,000 acre, vineyard froze through the root zone and had to be replanted. That left only about 1,500 acres throughout the state and most of the vines were damaged and had low yields. Our company bought about 80% of all grapes in the state so we went backwards in our growth plan. When the fine wine industry started commercially in Washington in 1967, its reputation was centered around White Riesling. Riesling was one product brand and almost all of it was sold locally, and it wasn’t very popular anywhere else. The rest of the country wanted Chardonnay, and Cabernet, of which we had very little. So we had to pay growers to pull out Riesling and plant these other varieties with high priced, long term contracts. The biggest problem was that we didn’t have a true wine industry. Thus, we didn’t have any awareness of our product outside of the state. We had to build an industry and build national awareness. We had to introduce other varieties and convince people that we made good red wines as well as white wines. We were owned by US Tobacco, and this was a very wealthy company that was willing to put incredible money into this venture. To put that in perspective, when I started there were very few wineries in the state and we dominated the market from day one. During my 20 year career with Ste. Michelle, we never had less than a 70% of the market share. We had to build an industry, and we would pay for wine writers to visit and tell our story. At Ste. Michelle, we promoted all other wineries that were making good products; we also knew that one winery doesn’t make for a serious viticulture region. Today there are over 1000 wineries in WA and over 65000 acres of vinifera vineyards representing almost a tenth of the domestic production. Ste Michelle pulled the plow but what really contributed most to the success was a bit of luck. We always knew we could make good wines but the real success came from the fact that Washington can grow the world class grapes needed to make world class wines, but in 1980 we just didn’t know this.

WWB: What were some of the challenges at Ste. Michelle with creating so many good wines that offered incredible value for the consumer in an unprecedented fashion?

AS: Controlling price and balancing profit and growth and supply was difficult but there are enough margins in wine that you can do this as long grape prices don’t go wild. We had lots of land suitable for quality grapes so that kept everything in balance over the long run. Also my marketing philosophy came from when I was working in the branding department for Ernest Gallo. Whatever brands you had were discussed in the meeting. You would bring in the competitor’s brands. We would blind taste the wines and if the Gallo brand wasn’t as better than the higher price competitors Ernest would get the message to Julio whom ran winemaking and they adjust the blend to improve it. That was his philosophy. We did a lot of blind tastings at Ste. Michelle and would blind taste against our best competitors. My goal was to see Ste. Michelle evolve into a winery which had a stellar reputation for producing great wines like Mondavi and I wanted Columbia Crest (our largest winery) to become like Beringer. Actually at the end of my career, I was working on merging us with both South Corp (biggest Australian wine group… Penfolds, etc) and Beringer,, but unfortunately for them that didn’t work out and both ended up as part of a beer group.

WWB: The vision behind Long Shadows Vintners is just incredible and pioneering not only in the world of Washington wine but in new world wine itself. How did you decide to create Long Shadows Vintners?

AS: It really didn’t take me a long time to figure this out, because when I was at Ste. Michelle I became close friends with Bob Mondavi. I thought the joint venture with Baron Rothchild that created Opus One was brilliant. It was the beginning of making California wines accepted on the east coast. So I knew that I needed to do something like that for Ste. Michelle, and I unfortunately got caught up with working on a joint venture with Bordeaux. There were too many French lawyers involved and they wanted too many sacrifices on our part. That never came together but that led to me getting to know Pierre Antinori quite well. There was a discussion about starting a winery, and he brought his winemaker over to Washington. We went out to the vineyards, and at that point in time in the 1990s we had about 50,000 barrels of red wine at various locations and we tasted extensively. That started Col Solare. Then later Ernie Loosen came to me to discuss a Riesling joint venture and that led to Eroica.

After 20 years at Ste. Michelle I wanted to start my. own winery, so why not start more than one and use the Opus One model for each one of them? The idea was to have someone who excels with each particular grape. I met Michel Rolland very early in my career. Michel and I stayed friends and he became a good choice. Agustin Huneeus Sr. was a friend and so was Randy Dunn. We had Syrah and we knew we had to find someone for Syrah and the most famous Syrah in the world was Grange. It just so happened that the winemaker, John Duval, retired to start his own winery. I had met him briefly when I was over there to discuss the Beringer/South Corp/ Ste Michelle merger. So I connected with him and offered him this opportunity, and he came over and loved it so that became our Sequel. Piero Antinori introduced me to the Folonari family who becomes our partners for Saggi. Ernie Loosen introduced me to Armin Diel who became our partner in Poet’s Leap. I have since bought out the Folonari and Diel shares. 

WWB: What led you to hire Gilles NIcault to be your primary winemaker?

AS: That is an interesting story. As we started construction at the winery in Walla Walla and five of the six of our Long Shadows winemakers flew over, on the way back we tried to figure out who was going to be the winemaker, sitting at the feet of these great winemakers. I was hoping that the right person will come to us. A week later Giles Nicault called and the rest was history. 

WWB: Your Julia’s Dazzle Rosé and Poet’s Leap Riesling both are some of the top wines of their kind in Washington. How are you able to craft such exceptional wines and keep the prices so low?

AS: We were one of the first to really focus on Rosé in our state. Early on we had made great Rosé wine for Ste. Michelle which was discontinued when people stopped drinking Rosé, but I always believed that Rosé would have a renaissance. In reality, at an outdoor event on a warm day, there is no better product. It is very user-friendly. The serious wine drinker may not like a lot of styles but they will love a dry Rosé. We wanted to make a splash and have a special package. We used Pinot Gris which was different and that made it more flavorful. Pinot Gris turns pink when you ripen it enough.

Ernie Loosen taught us that we could make great Riesling. Ernie came over and was really involved right down to how we ferment and crop the wine. We made Eroica and in the first year we made it we sold over 20,000 cases at $20 a bottle and until that time Washington had never sold a Riesling for over $10 a bottle. Loosen and I also thought there would be a renaissance in Riesling. And so we used a combination of his techniques and Armin’s techniques and treated the grape as we would treat the Cabernet grapes. We did a lot of gentle fermentation and extra things to make a beautiful bottle of wine, which is a balancing act with residual sugar, acid and fruit. You don’t want it too fruity or too acidic but good amounts of both. 

WWB: What are some of your favorite wines of the world? What is your wine cellar like?

AS: I have a very large cellar and it is probably 50% dominated by wines that I have made including wines that go back into the Ste. Michelle days. Two years ago, Wine Spectator’s Harvey Steinman was here at our house and I opened up a 1976 Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon and he thought it was one of the best wine he had tasted in a long time. It was over 35 years old which shows the aging potential of Washington wines. So my cellar also has a lot of aged single bottles which were given as gifts or left over from cases bought over the years. I used to have a huge amount of First Growths from the ‘80s and had a dinner party here at my house some ten years back when Margaux was commanding huge prices. The first two bottles of Margaux I bought were corked and I sold all of my so the four bottles I ended up opening probably had $10,000 in value (I’m sure I never paid more than $100 per bottle when I bought at release). Worse, those wines were hard to tell from a great bottle of American wine. . . needless to say I sold all of my First Growth wines.

I have a 1943 of Chateau Pichon Lalande (my birth year) which was given to me when I was there. These were difficult to make during World War II, and there is a great story behind making wines during the war. They only made a few cases of that wine. I have one of the first vintage of Bob Mondavi’s wine, a 1976 signed by him. That is probably the most special wine that I own. I have verticals from of many of the winemakers that I have worked with, verticals of Georges de Latour, all signed by Andrée Tchelistcheff (Ste. Michelle consultant for 30 years and a great friend), also Randy Dunn’s wine as well as Quintessa. What I don’t have but would love to have is 20 cases of great red Burgundies because I love those wines. I love them but the great ones are too expensive The one wine I have never had is Domaine Romanée Conti. I also love Russian River Pinot Noir, which is a better value Burgundy.

Knudsen Vineyards

One of the vineyards with a longstanding history in the Willamette Valley, Knudsen Vineyards was founded by Oregon wine pioneers Cal and Julia Lee Knudsen in 1971. Located centrally in the Dundee Hills AVA, the Knudsen family has grown grapes at this location for 45 years. I have long admired the Argyle wines sourced from this great vineyard as these grapes have helped produce some of the top sparkling wines made in North America.

After the passing of Cal Knudsen in 2009, his children, each of whom had followed individual pursuits in business and finance, were compelled to return to the vineyard and then start Knudsen Vineyards winery in 2014 with the help of Argyle winemaker Nate Klostermann, and with the assistance of Rollin Soles. Nate and Rollin are spectacular winemakers who have an incredible handle on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The new wines by Knudsen Vineyards were seriously good, as were the last few releases. I love the consistency that the winery is starting to produce. The 2017 Knudsen Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 92) has wonderful dense weight on the palate, showing good earthy tones alongside minerals and red fruits. This beautiful wine will cellar well for a decade. Learn more about these fantastic wines at http://knudsenvineyards.com Here are the fantastic new Pinot Noir release by Knudsen Vineyards. 

2017 Knudsen Vineyards ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir- Translucent in color, the 2017 Knudsen Vineyard Pinot Noir begins with gorgeous cinnamon stick and clove aromatics that sing with red currants and peat moss tones on the nose. The palate is soft and generous, unveiling a dazzling array of bright red and dark fruits that mingle with the wild mushroom and mineral tones on the palate. The silky texture impresses as this beautiful new wine will cellar well for a decade. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2017 Knudsen Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir by Knudsen Vineyards is a barrel selection wine by Nate Klostermann. More dense on the nose than the entry level bottling, this shows suggestions of white truffle and wild blackberry that mingle with the earthy undertones. Soft and generous on the palate, this shows of a beautiful mouthfeel. Red and dark fruits mingle with minerals and shades of caramel and peat moss on the palate. The sense of balance is gorgeous here. While a delight to savor in its youth, this beautiful wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2033- 92

Rotie Cellars

It is hard to believe that Rotie Cellars started twelve years ago in 2007. That was the same year I started my practice in psychology — not exactly optimal timing on either of our parts. Fun loving yet a highly serious winemaker, Sean Boyd makes a brilliant range of wines in his portfolio and has developed quite a following for his fantastic Rhone style wines. He has tasting rooms both in Walla Walla and in the SoDo District of Seattle. A really exciting development is he is starting a new tasting room in the Rocks District AVA (https://www.washingtonwine.org/tasting-rooms/rotie-rocks-estate-tasting-room/). 

Sean is one of the great people in Washington wine. Hailing from from Tacoma, began working at Waters Winery in 2004 and after some time decided to start his own project. They have reds t added Proper Wines to their portfolio, as Sean crafts some gorgeous Syrah for them. The new 2018 Rotie Cellars ‘Southern White’ Red Wine (WWB, 92) has amazing verve and freshness with seriously good range. This is a wine that will pair marvelously with a host of lighter seafoods and shellfish. This is one for the cellar. Even better the 2017 Rotie Cellars ‘Northern Blend’ Red Wine (WWB, 94) is smoky, savory and has wonderful stony terroir from his vineyard in the Rocks AVA. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://www.rotiecellars.com Here are the outstanding new release wines by Rotie Cellars.

2018 Rotie Cellars Rose-This beautiful new Rose by the talented Sean Boyd shows intense strawberry, watermelon and guava puree that amalgamate on the nose. The palate shows a good combination of bright acidity and sweetened red fruits with citrus rind tones that round out this excellent new Rose. The long finish adds to the enjoyment. While this may come off a touch sweet for some, the overall presentation from its range to finish is pretty impressive. Drink 2019-2024- 90

2018 Rotie Cellars ‘Southern White’ White WIne- The ‘Northern White’ is another fantastic release by superstar winemaker Sean Boyd. The wine begins with aromas of lychee with shades of nutmeg and Challah bred that all mingle together on the nose. The palate shows off a ton of freshness and intensity. Bright pear, lychee, starfruit and shades of vanilla cream all come together nicely on the palate. Enjoy this in the short-term while the great freshness remains. Drink 2019-2025- 92

2018 Rotie Cellars Grenache Blanc- This 100% Grenache Blanc wine was sourced from both the Columbia Valley and Walla Walla AVAs. The nose is quite lifted with intense green apple with star jasmine and nice wet stone character on this expressive nose. Gobs of mouth-watering acidity follow on the tongue as the wine shows off bright acidity and minerals with green melon and shades of Key lime flavors. This is fantastic stuff by the talented Sean Boyd. Drink 2019-2025- 92

2018 Rotie Cellars ‘Northern White’ White Wine- The ‘Northern White’ is a silly blend of 68% Viognier with 20% Roussanne and 12% Marsanne all sourced from the Walla Walla AVA. The nose takes on toasty brioche with shades of cantaloupe and green papaya that all mingle together in the glass. The soft texture really entices here as the wine slowly unveils bright cantaloupe with vanilla cream and shades of Macadamia nut on the palate. Drink 2019-2025- 92

2016 Rotie Cellars ‘Little G’ Grenaceh- The ‘Little G’ Grenache is another stunning wine by this talented winemaking team at Rotie. On the nose this takes on bright red fruits with stony undertones. The palate is remarkably pure, showing bright guava puree, red currant jelly, cigar ash and shades of wet stone that all sing in harmony on the palate. The weight and beam of salinity really entice. While a delight to savor now, this beautiful wine will cellar well for a decade. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2017 Rotie Cellars ‘Southern Blend’ Red Wine- The ‘Sotuhern Blend’ is a great combination of 70% Grenache with 20% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah that all shine brightly together. The aromatics are very pretty with red rose petals that collide with smoked meats, bulls blood and shades of blood orange zest on this beautiful nose. The freshness, energy, weight and length of the wine is really outstanding. Red cherry candy, pipe tobacco, smoked pork shoulder and orange zest flavors all mingle together on the palate. While a delight to savor in its youth, this marvelously textured wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2017 Rotie Cellars ‘Northern Blend’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Northern Blend’ is a compelling melange of 95% Syrah with 5% Viognier all sourced from their estate vineyard in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA. This begins with wonderful stony character on the nose that combines with blood orange cordial, red cherry preserves and shades of green olive tapenade that all blend marvelously together. The soft, silky texture is stunning. Black olive, exotic spices, Mandarin orange rind and wet stone with minerals all really sing in the glass. A delight to savor now, this beautiful effort will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 94

2016 Rotie Cellars ‘Dre’ Red Wine- The ‘Dre’ is a limited production 100% Mourvedre wine by Rotie Cellars. Bright red fruits combine with creosote and shades of black truffle that all combine together nicely in the glass. The silky texture really entices. Black fruits mingle with creosote and shades of black olive tapenade on the palate. Rich and layered, this is a fantastic effort. Drink 2019-2029- 93

Ramey Wine Cellars

Sitting down with one of the true masters of Chardonnay, a few things surprised me. First, I had only met David Ramey briefly at a few wine events over the last decade and had never had the opportunity to taste with him and pick his brain over several hours. Being a clinical psychologist I am always fascinated with people and their personalities. I was not at all surprised that David was so passionate, highly motivated and conscientious. Obviously he would not have a full feature in Wine Spectator, or have his winery named of the top United States wineries by Antonio Galloni, if he did not possess those qualities. However, peeling off those layers, David is a humble family man who is absolutely delightful to get to know and taste with. David has a huge range of interests from his beloved San Francisco Giants to fine dining and Tuscan wines. He is not only highly knowledgeable due to his depth of experience in the wine industry, he is an incredibly kind-hearted man that we can all learn from.

For three hours we tasted through his new lineup, starting with the new Chardonnays including several library wines. I was first introduced to these wines while I was in my doctoral studies, as my father purchased their lineup in 2005. At the time I was developing a soft spot for California Chardonnay, and was already familiar with the wines of Chateau St. Jean, Beringer and Cakebread. When I tasted these Chardonnay, I immediately saw that something was different in them — they were brighter, focused on higher toned minerals and lemon zest. They reminded me more of the wines of Burgundy that I had tried and I immediately fell in love with their completeness. I have had the great opportunity to sample them over the past fifteen years and the wines show a remarkable consistency. 

Talking about the new Ramey lineup of wines, you can find that level of consistency across the board. Do not miss out on the 2016 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay (WWB, 93) which has incredible mouthfeel, brightness and texture. Following up the stunning 2015 bottling (#51 on the 2018 WWB Top 100), the 2016 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Hyde Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 95) is Hyde Vineyard at its exotic best with huge range and remarkable tension in the glass. This is a truly special Chardonnay bottling. I’ll admit that I was completely blown away by the 2016 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Sonoma Coast’ Syrah (WWB, 94) which is the best bottling of its kind since I have tried this wine. The range imparted here is insanely good, as this is a downright steal at a mere $40.00. The best wine I tried during my tasting was the 2015 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Pedregal Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 96) which shows incredible balance and richness, with gobs of acidity and terroir. This is one for the cellar. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://www.rameywine.com Here are my reviews of the stunning new lineup by superstar winemaker David Ramey.

2016 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay- The 2016 ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay was aged twelve months in barrel (15% new) prior to bottling. The wine opens with hints of salted Marcona almond and suggestions of butterscotch and peat moss that all build in the glass. The mouthfeel and freshness of the wine is really gorgeous. Ripe banana and melon tones mingle with cinnamon infused Challah bread on the palate with a touch of salinity. This is just an incredible value Chardonnay by Ramey as I can see this cellaring well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2016 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Russian River Valley’ Chardonnay- The ‘Russian River Valley’ Chardonnay is sourced from a host of great vineyards in the Russian River Valley and is a gorgeous entry level wine by Ramey Wine Cellars. Aged for twelve months in French oak (15%) new prior to bottling, the Chardonnay begins with bright lemon zest with pineapple and shades of clove on the nose. The palate has wonderful balance and weight with ripe pineapple and nutmeg with shades with of toasted brioche all sing together in unison. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2016 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Woolsey Road Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The ‘Woolsey Road Vineyard parallels River Road in the Russian River Valley. The wine was aged for twenty months in roughly 25% new French oak prior to bottling. David Ramey planted Hyde-Wente budwood at this three acre vineyard. The wine opens with opulent tropical fruit with lemon zest and shades of clove on this expressive nose. The texture is truly outstanding with bright lemon oil infused sourdough bread and shades of wild mushroom with wet stone that all shine brightly on the palate. Enjoyable in its youth this beautiful wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2033- 94

2016 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Westside Farms Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2016 ‘Westside Farms Vineyard’ Chardonnay is a sensational new wine by legendary producer David Ramey. On the nose this shows incredible range from vanilla soaked pear to butterscotch and earthy undertones and shades of white truffle shavings that all sing in harmony on the nose. The palate has incredible texture and verve as the wine unveils bright nectarine with roasted pineapple and vanilla creme brûlée flavors that mingle with the minerals and wild mushroom tones. The saline streak and tension in the wine combine to create gobs of mouth-watering acidity. Highly complex and downright delicious, this beautiful wine will cellar well for decades. Drink 2019-2035- 95

2016 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Rochioli Vineyard’ Chardonnay- David Ramey has worked with this site since 2006 which was since bottled in the Russian River Valley bottling. This is now the second year that he has made a ‘Rochioli Vineyard’ Chardonnay and we are all quite glad that he did. This famed vineyard is roughly one mile south of Ramey’s Westside Farms Vineyard as the ‘Rochioli Vineyard’ was planted to largely Dijon clones. The nose is highly perfumed with bananas foster and shades of white truffle with wet stone and ripe pineapple that all mingle aromatically. The palate is highly opulent with cinnamon infused challah bread, lemon zest, ripe banana and pineapple flavors with earthy undertones. The range imparted is spectacular, as is the lovely texture and bright sense of minerality. The earthy tones from the Dijon clones wonderfully round out this scintillating new bottling. While it is beautiful to enjoy now, this outstanding new Chardonnay will cellar well for decades. Drink 2019-2035- 95

2016 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Hyde Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The ‘Hyde Vineyard’ Chardonnay is a spectacular new bottling by the talented David Ramey. The nose is showing gorgeous earthy undertones with shades of white truffle and wet stone that mingle with shades of cinnamon and clove. The texture imparted is soft and enticing, as is the bright sense of minerality. Bright citrus zest mingles with banana, pineapple and shades of sourdough bread with wild mushroom on the palate. This has both the freshness and weight to cellar well for a decade or more — but this is simply magical stuff in its youth. Drink 2019-2035- 95

2016 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Ritchie Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2016 ‘Ritchie Vineyard’ Chardonnay is a stunning effort from this exciting vintage in the Russian River Valley. Sourced from vines planted in 1972, the vineyard is located right in the center of the Russian River AVA. the wine shows seductive white tea with clove and Challah bread and vanilla creme brûlée aromas that all shine brightly in the glass. The palate has wonderful texture and richness as this wine effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. The wine shows gorgeous tropical fruit with shades of cinnamon infused sourdough bread and wild mushroom. Drink 2019-2035- 95

2010 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Ritchie Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2010 ‘Ritchie Vineyard’s is holding marvelously at nine years of age. Bright tropical fruits mingle with cinnamon, wild mushroom, wet stone and shades of creme brûlée that all shine together on this expressive nose. The palate is plush and soft, delivering a seamless quality as the wine glides effortlessly across the mid-palate. Intense tropical fruit flavors mingle with lemon curd, and French baguette flavors. Delightful now, this will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 95

2016 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir is sourced from a host of vineyards in this AVA. On the nose this takes on lovely red raspberry cordial with shades of red cherry cola that all mingle together in the glass. The palate has wonderful freshness and intensity with lovely earthy undertones and underbrush that collide together with minerals. Enjoy this beautiful new Pinot Noir over the next decade. Drink 2019-2025- 92

2016 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Sonoma Coast’ Syrah- The 2016 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Sonoma Coast’ Syrah is a show-stopping effort from this warm vintage in Sonoma. Right out of the gate you are enthralled by the intense bacon fat, green peppercorn and shades of white grapefruit blossom that mingle with the dark and red fruits on this gorgeous nose. The aromatic complexity is stunning. The wine shows great balance and verve, delivering a soft texture. Smoked meats, cigar ash, green peppercorn and black tea mingle with blackberry pie flavors and a bright beam of salinity. The level of complexity created here considering this is Ramey’s entry level Syrah is truly outstanding. Beautiful and intense in its youth, this great new Syrah will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2019-2029- 94

2015 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Cole Creek Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2015 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Cole Creek Vineyard’ Syrah is another sensational offering by Ramey Wine Cellars. Showing off its deep hue in the glass, the Syrah begins with an intense bouquet of Hoisin sauce and shades of smoked brisket that connect with suggestions red currant jelly and Chinese black tea that all meld nicely in the glass.  Showing good freshness and intensity the wine slowly unveils black cherry cordial with black olive tapenade and shades of clove that all build on the mouth. With a silky texture and a bright sense of minerality, this beautiful wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2015 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Rodger’s Creek Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2015 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Rodger’s Creek Vineyard’ Syrah is a simply marvelous effort from this warm vintage in the Sonoma Coast AVA. Once in the glass the wine slowly builds with saline infused blueberry compote with Asian spices, black tea and bacon fat aromatics that all nicely connect. The wine shows a wonderful combination of freshness and richness, delivering a silky mouthfeel. This has a very Cote Rotie feel with dried herbs and blueberries with smoked pork shoulder and dried herbal undertones. Seductive in its youth this beautiful Syrah will cellar well for another decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 95

2016 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Template’ Red Wine- The 2016 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Template’ Red Wine is a limited production, Right Bank style (70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon) bottling crafted by eminent winemaker David Ramey. The Merlot for the ‘Template’ was sourced from the Paras Vineyard, located in the Mt. Veeder AVA. The nose screams Napa Merlot with its red bell pepper, black tea, anise and shades of red cherry compote that all build in the glass. The freshness and balance is lovely with black tea, exotic spices, blackberry cobbler and shades of white pepper that all mingle nicely on the mouth. Outstanding in its youth, this beautiful wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2033- 93

2016 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Claret’ Red Wine- David Ramey has made the ‘Claret’ since 2001 and this one is up there with the best that I have sampled. The wine shows marvelous aromatics from dried herbs to red bell pepper and black tea with blackberry cobbler aromas that all build in the glass. Highly balanced, with good richness and tension, this wine yields ripe blackberry cobbler with shades of black tea and milk chocolate that all build on the mouth. This has both the weight and structure to cellar well over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2017 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Claret’ Red Wine-  The 2017 ‘Claret’ was largely sourced from the Napa Valley (40%) and Lake County (31%), with the remainder coming from the Alexander Valley and Russian River Valley. The wine begins with black cherry cordial with shades of milk chocolate and ripe strawberry that all mingle on the nose. The palate is dense and rich, showing good minerality. Dense black tea with milk chocolate and blackberry pie flavors all meld together on the palate. Showing great freshness, the wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2015 Ramey Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon by Ramey Wine Cellars is seriously good wine from this exciting vintage in the Napa Valley and is one of the best entry level Cabernet wines that I have ever sampled from this storied winery. The nose shows really good freshness and balance, with good range from black tea to Asian spices, blackberry jam and shades of red currant. The mouthfeel really entices, as does the freshness, producing mouth-watering acidity. Enjoyable in its youth this beautiful wine will cellar well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 93

2015 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Annum’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2015 ‘Annum’ Cabernet Sauvignon is both a seductive and highly balanced bottling from this exciting vintage in the Napa Valley. On the nose there are hedonistic aromas of red bell pepper that mingle with cigar box, dusty terroir, exotic spices and black forest cake that all build in the glass. The freshness and balance is incredible here as the bright minerals collide with black tea, exotic spices, creme de cassis and shades of blackberry cordial with black olive tapenade flavors. I adore the flavor range imparted which deftly connects with the freshness and a beam of salinity that run through the wine. Highly energetic and exotic in its youth this beautiful wine will continue to evolve well for the next two decades. This is simply sensational stuff by superstar winemaker David Ramey. Drink 2019-2040- 95

2015 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Pedregal Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from a rocky site in the Oakville AVA, set on iron and clay loam with basalt deposits, and is located across the trail from Rudd Vineyard. The ‘Pedregal Vineyard’ was co-fermented with 15% Petit Verdot and shows enhanced terroir with dusty earth that mingles with suggestions of red bell pepper, black tea, Asian spices, blackberry compote and loads of black licorice. Round and generous on the mouth, this shows off a downright sexy mouthfeel. Once on the attack the wine slowly unveils deep blackberry cordial with blueberry compote, cigar ash and shades of creme de cassis that all mingle on the palate. Simply marvelous in its youth, this beautiful and highly elegant Napa Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for two decades. Drink 2020-2040- 96

2008 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Pedregal Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2008 ‘Pedregal Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is absolutely singing at the eleven year mark. The nose shows really nice herbal character with black tea, dusty terroir and shades of wild blackberry jam that all shine brightly together in the glass. The soft mouthfeel really entices here, as does the bright sense of minerality that makes you think this is a much younger wine. Intense creme de cassis, red bell pepper, anise and shades of sweet pipe tobacco all carry momentum together on the palate. The sense of balance is wonderful. If this was blinded, I would have guessed a 2014. Outstanding now, this has fifteen years or more to go. Drink 2019-2033- 95

Andrew Will

With succession comes obvious pressure. Sitting down to the heir apparent, Will Carmada, now for the second time, I saw that Will had fully settled into his role as not only Andrew Will winemaker but Andrew Will brand ambassador. Will has a deep understanding and passion for the family brand that he represents — one of the historic wineries in the Pacific Northwest. Most know Andrew Will for their red blends with great aging potential. I’ve had many of these wines going back to the early 1990s that continue to shine despite most from their era being a bit tired or over the hill. I have always been amazed that the wines show incredible freshness despite their age. Months ago I sat down with my colleague, Dr. Jae Hong, as we sampled the 2002 Andrew Will ‘Two Blondes’ Red Wine (WWB, 93) and I blind tasted this wine, mistaking it for a 2008 vintage wine. Will is a remarkable, down to earth guy, who is producing some stellar new wines. If you haven’t had a chance to sample these wines for some time, they all come highly recommended. Will has also landed his wine at Daniel NYC on glass pour which speaks to the quality of the wines and is a tremendous milestone for Washington State wines. 

Will makes some outstanding white wines and Rose. His new 2018 Andrew Will ‘Cuvee Lucia’ Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 92) has 15% Semillon artfully blended in to add to the gorgeous texture of the wine. This beautiful wine will cellar well for at least another six years, picking up tertiary notes. The best wine I tried was the stunning 2014 Andrew Will ‘Sorella’ Red Wine (WWB, 95) which is amongst the best Andrew Will wines I have ever had. This later released wine is only an infant now and will evolve well over the next twenty years. Learn more about these stunning wines at http://www.andrewwill.com/home/ Here are the beautiful new release wines by Andrew Will. 

2018 Andrew Will ‘Cuvee Lucia’ Sauvignon Blanc- This is the third vintage that this wine has been made by Will Carmada as the 2018 ‘Cuvee Lucia’ is a compelling blend of 85% Sauvignon Blanc with the remainder Semillon. This wine shows better aromatically when a bit warmed up. The nose shows wonderful flinty tones with shades of honeydew melon and toasty brioche that all come together nicely in the glass. The texture here is outstanding, as is the lip-smacking acidity. The lemon zest and melon tones really shine on the palate, with minerals. Drink 2019-2025- 92

2016 Andrew Will ‘Two Blondes Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc- Sourced from the Yakima Valley, the 2017 ‘Two Blondes Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc weighs in at 13.5% alcohol and is 100% varietal. The wine was aged in 20% new French for fifteen months prior to bottling. The wine begins with gorgeous red bell pepper with sagebrush and a touch of white pepper as this is a classic Cabernet Franc nose. There is a wonderful sense of elegance to this wine. The texture is really good as bright red fruits dance with minerals and potpourri. The long finish lingers. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2014 Andrew Will ‘Two Blondes Vineyard’ Red Wine- Sourced from this famed vineyard in the Yakima Valley the 2014 ‘Two Blondes Vineyard’ is a silky blend of 56% Merlot with 20% Cabernet Franc and 15% Sauvignon with just a touch of Malbec added. The nose shows high toned red fruits that mingle with chocolate covered raspberry and sagebrush with black tea aromas that all sing in harmony in the glass. Silky, with an impeccable texture, and soft tannins, this shows off creme de cassis, anise, sagebrush and coffee ground flavors. This has a wonderful sense of place and balance. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2035- 94

2014 Andrew Will ‘Ciel du Cheval Vineyard’ Red Wine- The 2014 ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine is a fantastic blend of 61% Merlot with 39% Cabernet Franc that was aged in oak (30% new largely Taraunsaud) for twenty months prior to bottling. This inky colored wine begins with powerful aromas of salted meats with blackberry compote and Turkish coffee that all nicely develop on the nose. The texture is gorgeous as this stunning wine has a seamless quality that glides across the mid-palate. Moderately tanninc, this beautiful wine shows off espresso bean, dark chocolate shavings, graphite and black cherry cordial flavors. The exceedingly long finish with minerals, light tannins and black fruits, complete this stunning bottling. While complex and delicious in its youth, this stunning wine will cellar well for decades. Drink 2021-2040- 94

2014 Andrew Will ‘Discovery Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2014 ‘Discovery Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in 40% in French oak for twenty months prior to bottling. This is the last vintage that they have elected to make from this vineyard. On the nose this takes on incredible aromas of black cherry and sagebrush with shades of black licorice and dusty terror that all come together on the nose. The balance of the wine shows through with black cherry compote, mocha, anise and sagebrush tones with pipe tobacco flavors that linger long on the palate. This is quite rich but it has wonderful elegance and sense of place. Drink 2020-2040- 94

2014 Andrew Will ‘Sorella’ Red Wine- The 2014 ‘Sorella’ by Andrew Will and the talented Will Carmada is an incredible wine from this warm vintage in Washington. Sourced from the esteemed Champoux Vineyard, the ‘Sorella’ is comprised of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon with 11% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. The incredibly perfumed nose entices as the wine slowly unveils chocolate covered Arabica bean, crushed mint, black cherry compote and shades of leather and damp earth that all combine marvelously in the glass. The texture of this wine and sense of balance is gorgeous. Mocha, anise, tar and creme de cassis with red cherry preserves with coffee ground flavors all marvelously are woven together on the palate. I am a bit surprised at this degree of freshness considering the obvious heat of the vintage. Outstanding in its youth, this beautiful wine will have a very long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2040- 95

Bevan Cellars

A love story going back to 1995, Russell Bevan and Victoria De Crescenzo began their wine journey in Des Moines, Iowa, playing ‘guess the wine’ as they began dating. Following a quite jaunt to Minneapolis they both began making more and more trips back to their native California before deciding to be fully invested in the wine industry. Bevan was initially a wine journalist before making the move to make his own wine. HIs first vintage was 2005 and he has been met with unprecedented critical acclaim since he first began making his highly collectable Cabernet Sauvignon wines. Russell Bevan trained under eminent winemakers Philip Togni and Greg LaFollette who played a large part in his winemaking education in the early days and have remained an inspiration throughout. 

Bevan sources from some of the top vineyards in the Napa Valley and has a consistent method of attaining the right amount of extraction in his wines. His wines are rich and decadent but show good balance regardless of vintage. His 2016 Bevan ‘EE Tench Vineyard’ Proprietary Red Wine (WWB, 96) is absolutely a show-stopper with its blending that all marvelously complement each other. Even better was the 2016 Bevan ‘Tench Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 97) which shows off the heat of the vintage and has really intense aromatics and flavors. This beautiful wine really needs a little more bottle age to fully come together. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://www.bevancellars.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Bevan Cellars.

2016 Bevan ‘Ontogeny’ Red Wine- The ‘Ontogeny’ Red Wine is an outlandishly good wine at this primal stage in its development. Once on the nose this strongly evokes sandalwood, red currant mocha and creme de cassis aromatics that all marvelously take shape in the glass. Following a longer decant the seamless quality of the wine really shines. Mildly tannic, with toasty oak accents, this evokes flavors of Creme de cassis, mocha anise and shades of salted caramel that all build on the palate. Enjoyable now, this dense red wine will cellar well for the next two decades. Drink 2020-2040- 96

2016 Bevan ‘EE Tench Vineyard’ Proprietary Red- The ‘EE Tench Vineyard’ is a stunning blend by Russel Bevan, largely comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) with the remainder, 35% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot. Shades of tar fill the glass, followed by aromatics of anise, blueberry compote on the nose which all enliven the senses. The texture imparted is both soft and delightful as this wine also sees some great acidity and poise. Coffee grounds, freshly laid asphalt, blackberry syrup and milk chocolate complete the flavor range to this downright delicious new bottling. The seamless quality of the wine truly entices. While delight to savor in its youth, this beautiful wine needs at least another year of bottle age to fully hit its stride. Drink 2020-2040- 96

2016 Bevan ‘Tench Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 ‘Tench Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a show-stopping wine by superstar winemaker Russell Bevan. Right out of the gate this impresses with decadent black currant jelly, tar, anise and exotic spice aromas. The texture is both soft and inviting as the wine seamlessly glides across the mid-palate. While quite intense, there is a gorgeous elegance to this wine that shows creme de cassis, mocha, tar and spiced black licorice flavors. The wine finishes big and long with black fruits and minerals. While obviously delightful now, the ‘Tench Vineyard’ Cabernet will have a long life in the cellar. Drink 2020-2040- 97

Cayuse and Horsepower Vineyards Vertical Tasting

This takes work’ Christophe explained. ‘No, really. It takes work to make this wine.’ We tasted our first wine, the 2015 ‘God Only Knows’ Red Wine and were mesmerized with the experience. Quite simply, there is nothing like this in the world of wine as it is only extreme hard work and dedication that it takes to craft something this special. Tasting through these wines was a wonderful educational experience for me to have all of these vintages to revisit at the same time. I am quite sure that cold vintage wines from the stony terroir of Milton-Freewater simply behave differently than wines made from from the rest of the state. While certainly not a hot vintage, wines from this terroir in 2011 show plenty of phenolic ripeness and do not show the same green flavor profiles that many others from Walla Walla, Yakima or Columbia Valley AVAs show. It is also my opinion that the best wines from this vintage were made by Christophe Baron and the best wine I have sampled from this vintage is the 2011 Cayuse ‘God Only Knows’ Red Wine (WWB, 97) which is a phenomenal wine that has insanely good poise, balance and elegance. If you have the chance to seek out this very special wine, you will not be disappointed. 

I was also a bit surprised how the 2013 wines were showing. The 2013 Cayuse ‘Bionic Frog’ Syrah (WWB, 98) is also clearly one of the wines of the vintage. The weight, intensity and gorgeous stony terroir of the wine makes this absolutely irresistible. I would drink this wine over the next seven years while the bright acidity stays in its core. The lone 2014 wine that I sampled was the absolutely scintillating 2014 Horsepower ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache (WWB, 98) which is a truly thrilling, one of a kind Grenache that has massive stony character, very pretty red fruits and insanely good range. This wine will have at least another decade ahead of it but I think it will show best over the next seven years to soak in its wonderful verve. Learn more about these very special wines at https://cayusevineyards.com/static/ and https://horsepowervineyards.com/horsepowervineyards/ Here are my tasting notes from my Cayuse and Horsepower Vertical Tasting in August 2019.

Cayuse Vineyards

2015 Cayuse ‘God Only Knows’ Red Wine- This is the second time that I have tried this wine, with the last time being roughly a year ago with Christophe Baron. The texture is really refined with light tannins. The nose awakens the senses with shades of potpourri, white rose, white truffle and umami with hints of blood orange zest and red raspberry candy that all mingle nicely together in the glass. On the palate this is incredibly silky, with a gorgeous seamless mouthfeel, underlined by vibrant, mouth-watering acidity. The salinity and minerality bring you back to the glass for more enjoyment. This continues to impress as it reveals an exotic appeal of red cherry cordial, Earl Grey tea, blood orange, wet stone with umami which all combine with red and dark fruits that show remarkable purity. The wine is simply marvelous now, finishing strong with its silky texture and minerals. Drink 2019-2026- 97

2011 Cayuse ‘God Only Knows’ Red Wine (Sampled July 2019)- The 2011 Cayuse Vineyards ‘God Only Knows’ Red Wine is quite frankly the best wine made from this vintage in Washington in my opinion. Simply put, this is a complete wine that has remarkable ripeness, texture, elegance and stony character that you can only find by superstar vigneron Christophe Baron. Once on the mouth, this displays a remarkable elegance and sense of place. The purity of fruits is evident with bright guava and red cherry that mingle with the marvelous white truffle, wet stone, Umami and blood orange zest tones on the palate. Still quite bright and showing a wonderful sense of minerality, the 2011 ‘God Only Knows’ is simply dazzling stuff right now and still has seven or more years to go. Drink 2019-2026- 97

2013 Cayuse ‘Bionic Frog’ Syrah- The 2013 ‘Bionic Frog’ is an insanely good effort at now six years of age. The Syrah comes off intensely perfumed on the nose with bulls blood and Umami that mingle with shades of green olive tapenade and Mandarin orange rind. The texture to the wine is downright ethereal. I find the weight embodied to be highly gratifying. Hoisin sauce, Umami, seaweed, sour cherry and shades of Kalmata olive run through with a bright sense of acidity despite the year of the vintage. The salinity is really intense and makes your mouth water. A delight to savor now, the 2013 ‘Bionic Frog’ has more than a decade of life left. Drink 2019-2029- 98

2011 Cayuse ‘Bionic Frog’ Syrah-The 2011 ‘Bionic Frog’ Syrah is one of the wines of the vintage. I am quite convinced that this would stand tall with any other 2011 wine made in Washington. The poise and texture here is seriously good as red cherry preserves, with salted red plum, Charcuterie, and shades of green olive tapenade all connect nicely on the palate. The sense of minerality is gorgeous as a beam of acidity still runs through this wine at the eight year mark. This finishes exceedingly long. Drink 2019-2025- 94

Horsepower Vineyards

2014 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache- The 2014 ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache is a show-stopping wine that is up there with the best of its kind in North America. The seamless quality of the wine is quite evident. Aromatics of blood orange zest with white truffle crudo, bulls blood and cran-cherry cordial all mingle brightly in the glass.  The feeling of tension and poise of this wine is outstanding. Red fruits dance with minerals, kumquat zest, Umami and black truffle oil on the palate. While compelling at the five year mark, this outrageously good wine will cellar well for the next seven plus years. Drink 2019-2026- 98

2016 Horsepower Vineyards ‘High Contrast Vineyard’ Syrah- The High Contrast Vineyard Syrah is a new wine in this exciting Horsepower lineup which is sourced from a 3-acre parcel on the edge of the AVA, that was planted in 2013 mostly to Syrah and a touch Viognier. The inaugural debut is nothing short of show stopping, as the nose is quite perfumed with striking aromatics of red currants and wild blackberry joined by shades of wet stones, white pepper, meat, black truffle shavings and charcuterie that all impress in the glass. The palate displays a highly refined and gratifying texture, showing soft tannins that mingle with the silky mouthfeel that frae the flavors of red currants, wild blackberry, wet stone and umami and hins of black peppercorn. This is an absolutely brilliant Syrah from the team at Horsepower which is already simply stunning in its youth, yet also shows incredible promise for a wonderful evolution ahead. Drink 2019-2029- 96

2015 Horsepower Vineyards ‘The Tribe Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2015 Horsepower Vineyards 'The Tribe' Syrah is a head-turning wine that is already drinking marvelously at the four year mark. This Syrah shows an incredible and complex range of aromatics from black fruits to barn floor to peat moss characteristics that all build in the glass and and continue to bring you back for more delight. On the palate this shows marvelous freshness, with a wonderful minerality backbone that sing in harmony with flavors of ripe huckleberry, tar, umami, kalmatta olive tapenade and touch of white pepper flavors which envelope the palate. This gorgeous Syrah is a magical wine that has at least seven more years left. Drink 2019-2026- 95

2011 Horsepower Vineyards ‘The Tribe Vineyard’ Syrah- Truly one of the best wines made in this cold vintage, the wine evokes lovely damp earthy and stony character to the nose is exceedingly good. The wine shows off a silky texture with layers of kirsch, salted meats, green peppercorn and shades of horse manure. This finishes exceedingly long with black fruits and minerals. Texturally gorgeous this stunning wine will cellar well over the next five plus years. Drink 2019-2025- 95

Bodegas San Roman

One of the great wines of the world, I wanted to introduce some of you to’ San Roman’ produced in tiny region in Spain, Toro. The Toro region is in the province of Zamora, as part of Castile and Leon. Located northwest of Madrid, the region is relatively high elevation (2400 feet) and produces some of the finest Tempranillo wines of the world. Toro is also an ancient place, first conquered by Hannabal in 220 BC and the town was not repopulated until more than ten centuries later.

The wines of Toro were so famous that Christopher Columbus brought them on his journey to America. Toro is an extreme continental climate with very cold winters and very hot summers in which temperatures can eclipse 100 degrees. The wines from Toro are bold and intense. They are also some of the great bargains on the world wine market. 

Bodegas San Roman produces what is one of the most famous Toro wines, its ‘San Roman.’ The winery was founded by famed winemaker, Mariano Garcia, in 1998 as Bodegas y Vinedos Maurodos. In the late 1990s his two sons Alberto and Eduardo joined the team, as director of operations and technical director respectively. They own 100 hectares of vineyards in the villages of Villaester, San Roman de Hornija, Morales de Toro and Pedrosa del Rey. The vineyards are primarily planted to Tinta de Toro, a local clone of Tempranillo. Eduardo Garcia presides over the winemaking now as the winemaking style has moved towards combining freshness and richness. I have been absolutely enchanted by this wine since I first tried it while in graduate school more than a decade ago. The combination of richness and poise was just amazing to me. The wine can be quite powerful but maintains an amazing sense of balance and terroir. Simply put, it is one of the great wines of the world. The new release, the 2015 Bodegas San Roman ‘San Roman’ Toro (WWB, 94) is a stunning wine that is intense, yet silky smooth. If you have never tried a great wine from Toro, I highly recommend looking into this beautiful wine. Learn more about this famed property at https://www.bodegasanroman.com Here is my review of the 2015 Bodegas San Roman ‘San Roman’ Toro. 

2015 Bodegas San Roman Toro- The 2015 Bodegas San Roman Toro is another sensational release from this storied property in the Toro region. Toro saw very high heat spikes in 2015 so it is not surprising to see this massive wine weighing in at 14.5% alcohol. Needing a one hour hour decant, after some air this beautiful wine slowly unveils gorgeous aromatic range from black tea and Asian spices that mingle with notes of milk chocolate covered red cherry and tobacco leaf that are all marvelously woven together in the glass. The texture is soft and sumptuous, giving this wine a hedonistic edge. Suggestions of black forest cake and sweet pipe tobacco fill the palate, deftly mingling with minerals and peat moss tones. This finishes exceedingly long with dark fruits and minerals. WHile this is a delight to savor in its youth, the 2015 San Roman has both the acidity and stuffing to cellar well for the next twenty years. Drink 2020-2035- 94

Nicolas-Jay Vertical Tasting

One of the great boutique wineries in Oregon, Domaine Nicolas-Jay is a collaboration between Jean-Nicolas Méo (Domaine Méo-Camuzet) and Jay Boberg, co-founder of the music label, IRS Records. Jean-Nicolas Meo has experience working with grand crus of Burgundy and has translated that into understanding Oregon terroir. Jean-Nicolas has truly produced wines from some of the finest vineyards in Burgundy such as the Richebourg, Clos de Vougeot, Corton Clos Rognet and Echezeaux vineyards. Jay Boberg serves as cellar rat and aids assistant winemaker Tracy Kendall. The winery sources from their estate Bishop Creek Vineyard on in the Yamhill-Carlton appellation, as well as grapes from other outstanding Willamette Valley vineyards, including Nysa, Momtazi, Hyland and La Colina.

I have been quite impressed with these wines since they were first released in 2014 and I wanted to have the chance to sit down with them and sample them over a series of hours, side-by-side. What I was most impressed by was the consistency of each wine. While there were a few vintage differences, each wine showed a great combination of finesse and terroir. While clearly different than the great Pinot Noirs of Burgundy, there is a common thread of wonderful earthy terroir in each wine. Here are my notes from what was a marvelous vertical tasting of the first four vintages of this beautiful Oregon Pinot Noir.

2014 Nicolas-Jay ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir-  The 2014 Nicolas Jay was sourced from the Bishop Creek and Nysa vineyards and was made by Tracy Kendall of Adelsheim fame. The wine has evolved beautifully at the five year mark, showing beautiful red raspberry, guava puree and red cherry syrup that mingle with citrus rind and smoky undertones that all collect momentum in the glass. The palate is very smooth, evoking a silky mouthfeel. Generous red fruits and traces of blood orange zest collide with the lovely earthy and flinty undertones on the attack. While marvelous now, this has both the stuffing and tension to age gracefully over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2033- 93

2015 Nicolas-Jay ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- Intriguingly enough, the 2015 Nicolas-Jay ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir was sourced from nearly every AVA in the Willamette Valley, including the Bishop Creek vineyard in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. The wine was made by both Jean-Nicolas Meo and Jay Boberg as the Pinot Noir was largely aged in neutral oak barrels (67%) prior to bottling and was first released in April 2017. The black fruit aromatic profile is quite noticeable rather than the prettier red fruits that are evoked in the ’14 bottling. Silky smooth on the attack, the wine shows bright red fruits that mingle with cinnamon stick, and peat moss tones that are all unveiled on the palate. The combination of freshness and weight is gorgeous right now, as this silky Pinot Noir has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2019-2033- 93

2016 Nicolas-Jay ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir is a revelation at this stage in its development. Made by Jean-Nicolas Méo and Tracy Kendall, this outstanding Pinot Noir was largely aged in neutral oak (67%) prior to bottling in December 2016. The nose is quite marvelously perfumed with the damp earth tones giving this a real Burgundian flair, combining with dark kirsch and citrus zest tones that all take their shape in the glass. The palate unveils a silky mouthfeel and marvelous texture as bright red fruits connect with clove infused oranges as well as peat moss flavors. Marvelous now, this will only improve with time in the bottle. Drink  2019-2033- 92

2017 Nicolas-Jay ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 Nicolas-Jay ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir is a gorgeous new wine by this famed Willamette Valley winery. Aged in largely neutral oak, the nose evokes some wonderful freshness with bright red fruits that mingle with citrus zest and wet stone tones that mingle in the glass. The silky texture entices as ripe strawberry and guava flavors enter the fray, mixing with shades of Mandarin orange zest and earthy undertones that shine brightly on the palate. This is seriously good now and will only improve with cellaring. Compared side by side to the ’16, this wine is currently showing a touch more verve and elegance. Drink 2019-2033- 93

Marques de Caceres

We waltz over to Spain today to talk about one of the fantastic houses in Rioja that has been readily available throughout the United States. Marques de Caceres has made their name by providing beautiful value-driven Rioja wines since the 1990s. I was first enchanted by these Reserva and Gran Reserva wines more than fifteen years ago and was absolutely blown away with how the wines age. A few years back I visited the winery when I was in Spain which was a wonderful journey back into time. At the time they had no formal tasting room but it was a marvelous tour and a gorgeous valley setting. 

Located in the Rioja Alta region, In 1970 Enrique Forner founded the winery which was an alliance between the the Cenicero region in the La Rioja Alta. This family had been focused on the wine trade for five generations, sourcing from some of the great growers and vineyards in the region in a Bordeaux like concept. Cristina Forner is the fourth generation owner of this wine family. They produce a great Grand Reserva, but their Reserva is also consistently good and commands a lower price tag. These wines have increasingly been available at Costco at a price that makes them one of the better wine buys in the retail market. Look to the 2014 Marques de Caceres ‘Reserva’ Rioja (WWB, 93) which is a tremendous value buy and shows incredible depth and complexity. Even better was the stunning 2011 Marques de Caceres ‘Gran Reserva’ Rioja (WWB, 94) which is a massive wine now and will age gracefully for decades. Learn more about these special Rioja wines at https://www.marquesdecaceres.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Marques de Caceres.

NV Marques de Caceres ‘Brut’ Cava- The ‘Brut’ Cava by Marques de Caceres is a new offering from this storied Rioja house. On the nose this takes on toasty brioche tones with shades of lemon zest and nutmeg that enter the fray aromatically.  There is good freshness here with lovely sweetened apple and pear flavors that mingle with shades of candied lemon zest and ginger. Enjoy this in the short-term.  Drink 2019-2022- 88

2018 Marques de Caceres ‘Excellens’ White Wine- This opens with bright pear and gooseberry aromas with cinnamon undertones. The palate has good freshness and a soft texture, delivering light orchard fruit flavors with shades of vanilla cram.  Drink 2019-2023-  89

2018 Marques de Caceres ‘Deusa Nai’ Albarino- The ‘Deusa Nai’ Albarino opens with aromas of lemon zest and minerals with chalky terroir that mingle together on the nose. The freshness imparted is wonderful as delicate lemon rind and green apple flavors combine with minerals and a bright salinity. Drink 2019-2023- 89

2018 Marques de Caceres ‘Organic’ Rioja- Entirely made from organic grapes, this opens with aromas of ripe red currants with shades of Mandarin orange rind and exotic spices that all fill the nose. The palate has good structure and finesse with delicate red fruits that mingle with cinnamon infused orange rind. Drink 2019-2024-  89

2015 Marques de Caceres ‘Excellens Special Cuvee’ Rioja- The 2015 ‘Excellens Special Cuvee’ is an intriguing blend of 60% Garnacha with the remainder Tempranillo that were sourced from 25-30 year old vines. The nose is highly perfumed and energetic with deep dark fruits that mingle with shades of nutmeg and hints of chocolate that all mingle nicely in the glass. The palate delivers a good combination of verve and richness with kirsch, black tea and Asian spice flavors that mingle with the minerals and dusty terroir. Enjoy this beautiful, warm vintage wine, in the short-term. Drink 2019-2024- 90

2016 Marques de Caceres ‘Generation MC’ Rioja- Deeply colored once in the glass, the 2016 ‘Generation MC’ Rioja opens with intense dark cherry syrup and toasty oak that mingles with lighter orange rind tones on the nose. The palate is plush, delivering both good freshness and a soft texture that entices. Black tea, exotic spices and wild blackberry cobbler mingle with the lighter orange zest undertones on the palate. Thick and juicy, this would be a great pairing for a rich ribeye steak as this classy effort will cellar well for a decade. Drink 2019-2027- 90

2015 Marques de Caceres ‘Crianza’ Rioja- Very pretty aromatics follow here with bright red cherry, pomegranate seed and shades of blood orange zest that all come together aromatically. The palate is rich and plush, delivering a wonderful texture and savory element to the wine. The mouthfeel is really good here with ripe red plum, exotic spices and red cherry with orange zest all combining nicely on the palate. This is seriously good stuff for the price. Drink 2019-2025- 90

2014 Marques de Caceres ‘Reserva’ Rioja- The 2014 ‘Reserva’ by Marques de Caceres is another outstanding ‘Reserva’ bottling from this storied house in the La Rioja region. The wine was largely sourced from the Rioja Alta (85%) region with the remainder from the and Rioja Alavesa (15%), as the vineyards were cropped at roughly 2.6. tons an acre. This wine was aged for 20 months in French oak prior to bottling and is a beautiful blend of 85% Tempranillo with 10% Garnacha and 5% Graciano. On the nose this takes on deep black plum with shades of cinnamon infused red cherry and blood orange zest that all are nicely woven together in the glass. The soft texture here is gorgeous, as the wine beautifully coats the mid-palate. Ripe red fruits dance with minerals, orange zest and shades of clove and cardamon in this expressive ‘Reserva.’ A memorable effort, while this is enticing now, the wine has many years to come. Drink 2019-2035- 93

2011 Marques de Caceres ‘Gran Reserva’ Rioja- The 2011 ‘Gran Reserva’ Rioja by Marques de Caceres is up there with the best Gran Reservas I have sampled from this storied winery. This beautiful wine was sourced from 35-50 year old vineyards with some sections in the Rioja Alta region being 65-85 years old. The grapes for this wine were cropped at a mere 2.4 tons/acre, as the wine is largely sourced from higher elevation sites that are set on limestone and clay. The wine was then aged for 24 months in French oak and then aged for four years in the bottle prior to bottling as the final blending is  largely Tempranillo (85%) with smaller parts Graciano and Garnacha. Needing more than an hour in the decanter to fully unwind, the wine slowly unveils black tea and black cherry cordial aromas that mingle with shades of sagebrush and leather, with citrus rind undertones that are all marvelously brought together in the glass. The palate is deep and seductive, showing a wonderful texture and tension that runs through the wine. Exotic spices and chocolate shavings mingle with suggestions of hoisin sauce, peat moss, wild blackberry cobbler and cran-orange flavors. Complex and highly gratifying at the eight year mark, this exotic ‘Gran Reserva’ will cellar well for decades — but is very hard to resist in its youth. Drink 2019-2040- 94

Zena Crown Vineyard

One of the beautiful sites in the Willamette Valley, the Zena Crown Vineyard is a sight to be seen. The vineyard is located on a southwest-facing slope, set on volcanic soils, and also parallel to some of the great, historic vineyards of the Eola-Amity Hills In 2013 Jackson Family Wines purchased this beautiful site and has since served as single vineyard designate wines by producers  like Beaux Frères, Soter, and Penner-Ash. Zena Crown relies on the winemaking talents of Shane Moore who has a longstanding history in the Pacific Northwest wine industry. Graduating from Washington State University with a BS in Horticulture and a focus on Enology and Viticulture in 2008, Shane served as a cellar rat throughout his college years, and then worked for wineries around the globe—in Canada, in Western Australia, and in Israel’s Golan Heights. Shane met his future wife, Claire, while working harvest in Margaret River in 2010, and the pair soon returned to her native Sonoma County in California. Shane joined the Jackson Family Wines team in 2011 as an enologist specializing in Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, and in 2013 he returned to the Pacific Northwest to assume the role of Winemaker for Zena Crown. His new wine, the 2015 Zena Crown Vineyard ‘The Sum’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) is a spectacular effort that has wonderful richness and terroir. This is a must buy for any serious collector of great Oregon Pinot Noir. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://www.zenacrown.com Here is my review of the new 2015 Zena Crown Pinot Noir. 

2015 Zena Crown Vineyard ‘The Sum Pinot Noir- The 2015 Zena Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir underwent 50% whole cluster fermentation and is sourced from vines set on Jory soils. The nose shows really good range from blood orange zest to nutmeg to shades of white truffle that all excite in the glass. The silky texture glides through the mid-palate. Showing copious red and dark fruits with wild mushroom, this beautiful wine is drinking marvelously now but will have a long life in the cellar. Drink 2019-2035- 93

Pashey

As harvest begins today for this winery, I figured this is the perfect time to present the latest sparkling wines by Pashey. A tribute to his grandmother, the talented James Frey of Trisasetum fame, crafts some beautiful sparkling wines under his Pashey label. I’ve been tracking these wines since they were first released a few years back and I think that the quality is only improving with time. It is not easy making sparkling wines in hot vintages, which is what he has been facing in the past three releases. To do that well takes a lot of precision and work in the vineyard.

To my knowledge Pashiey offers the only single vineyard Blanc de Blancs sparkling wine offerings available in Oregon. James Frey and has long been inspired by the wines of Champagne, particularly grower Champagne. James described how he started Pashey and noted “I have always loved small producers that were doing really good stuff. Andrew Davis left Argyle to do his sparkling wine and he provided the logistics behind it. He was going to buy the equipment and if you wanted to do 800 cases you couldn’t afford to put the money in the equipment. He was looking for some people to start and because we did Riesling, high acid wines with a bit of residual sugar, I approached him and it was a good fit. We jumped right in and we were fortunate having cooler sites. I had these blocks at Coastal Range that weren’t as good for still wine but they are great for sparkling wine.”

The new releases by Pashey from the 2016 vintage show a wonderful combination of verve and mouthfeel. These are complex wines that have a common thread of tension, salinity and soft texture. I think you will be delighted by any of these new releases, none more so than the 2016 Pashey ‘Brut Rose’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 92) which has wonderful delicate red fruits on the palate, dancing with minerals. Learn more about these fantastic new wines at https://www.trisaetum.com/Our-Wines/Pashey-Sparkling-Wines Here are the beautiful new releases by Pashey.

2016 Pashey ‘Coast Range Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine- The ‘Coast Range Blanc de Blancs’ was disgorged in May 2019. Utilizing 2 grams of dosage, the wine shows a touch of salinity on the nose with nutty undertones and damp earth that all mingle nicely the glass. The complex aromatics bring you back to the glass for more. The freshness of the wine really shines as this Blanc de Blancs produces gobs of mouth-watering acidity. Bright lemon zest with green apple with shades of unripe cantaloupe mingle with a creamy texture. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2016 Pashey ‘Ribbon Ridge Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine- The 2016 Pashey ‘Ribbon Ridge Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine is a fantastic effort from this warm vintage in Oregon. Showing off a deeper hue than the ‘Coast Range’ bottling, the nose echoes the rich color with baked apple and pear aromas that mingle with shades of starfruit and salted lemon that are all marvelously combining on the nose. The wine shows a wonderful texture with a great sense of salinity. Meyer lemon rind, Pink Lady apple and shades of nutmeg infused sourdough bread all sing together on the palate. The combination of freshness and weight on the mid-palate is really classy. Enjoy this excellent new wine over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2016 Pashey ‘Estates Cuvee’ Sparkling Wine- The ‘Estates Cuvee’ is a silky blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. The blend changes depending on the vintage as this wine was disgorged in May 2019. The nose shows a musty edge with wild mushrooms and wet stone that connects with the baked apple character aromatically. The weight on the mid-palate is really satisfying. The baked apple component mingles with cinnamon and shades of citrus zest on the palate. With a silky mousse, this beautiful wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2016 Pashey ‘Brut Rose’ Sparkling Wine- The ‘Brut Rose’ is a really good blend of 60% Pinot Noir with the remainder Chardonnay that was sourced from the Coast Range and Ribbon Ridge sites. The aromas lead with citrus blossom and high toned Gravenstein apple despite the wine’s color. However, the flavors connect more with the light red fruits of red raspberry, guava and strawberry with melon undertones. The soft texture here is really fantastic. Bright, with great verve, this beautiful wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 92

Hors Catégorie

Friends, we have a big one for you today as we bit adieu to Washington Wine Month. Translated to ‘in a class of its own’ Hors Catégorie is a magnificent expression of terroir in a bottle. Sourced from a mere 2 acre vineyard hidden in the foothills of the Blue Mountains, the Hors Catégorie Vineyard is a sight to be seen. This vineyard is so steep that you struggle to climb it. As you whisk away beads of sweat from your forehead, looking out from the top of the vineyard is simply an incredible sight to be seen.

Spacing at this stunning vineyard is extremely tight and the wine is remarkably cropped at less than a ton an acre. The terroir was largely stony with thick broken basalt sprinkled everywhere. You can almost feel the tension in the wines from the struggle of each individual vine. The 2016 Hors Categorie Syrah (WWB, 99) is simply thrilling wine that its up there with the best wines I have tried in North America throughout the past year. The wine has lovely stony tones to it, although its aromatic and flavor profile is quite different than that of Christophe’s Milton-Freewater Vineyards. The wine has seriously good tension and verve, with great precision and elegance. If you are one of the few to grab one of these wines (only two thousand bottles produced), I think you will be absolutely blown away with its quality. Learn more about this marvelous Syrah at https://horscategorievineyards.com/horscategorievineyards/ Here is the new review for the incredible 2016 Hors Catégorie Syrah. 

2016 Hors Catégorie Syrah (Spring 2020 release)- The 2016 Hors Catégorie Syrah is a scintillating wine that flirts with perfection. Several years back superstar vigneoron, Christophe Baron, founded his ‘Hors Categorie Vineyard’ planting Syrah on his highly steep sloped site, set on broken basalt, with majestic, sweeping views of the Walla Walla Valley.  The wine is cropped at roughly one ton an acre and was then aged in 600L Demi-muides prior to bottling. Aromatically this Syrah shows insanely good range from white pepper to red cherry preserves and potpourri with shades of white truffle that all shine brightly on the nose. The palate has incredible texture with gorgeous black fruits that collide with Umami, white peppercorns, wet stone, Kalamata olive tapenade and black cherry cordial. The mouthfeel is insanely good and the wine has a seamless quality that makes this truly one of a kind and almost reminds me of a great La Landonne. Showing marvelously in its youth, this will evolve well over the next fifteen years. Only a slightly more than two thousand bottles produced of this incredible, one of a kind wine. Drink 2019-2033- 99

Opus One Vertical Tasting

A few weeks go I had the great opportunity to visit one of the iconic wineries of the world, Opus One. It was a gorgeous day and setting to taste their absolutely scintillating new release wines. Opus One was started in 1979 as a partnership between Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild and became the first ultra-premium California wine to be sold in France and Internationally.  Opus produces only one wine and a second wine (Overture) – both of which are typically a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Their estate includes part of the famed To-Kalon Vineyard, as well as other Oakville vineyards. Head winemaker Michael Silacci has been at the helm since 2001 and crafts an extraordinary wine. I was fortunate enough to try several older vintages in the past few months and I have included my tasting notes from those settings.

The 2008 Opus One (WWB, 98) was a stunning effort that is marvelous now but has a long life ahead of it in the cellar. Blue fruit tones were found in that wine as well as their 2007 Opus One (WWB, 98) which is utterly captivating at the twelve year mark. Their 2013 Opus One (WWB, 96) needs a bit of time in the cellar to fully come together but I was amazed how great the 2015 Opus One (WWB, 98) showed in its hedonistic youth. . Learn more about Opus One at http://www.opusonewinery.com/ Here are the gorgeous new release wines by Opus One.

2005 Opus One Red Wine- The 2005 Opus One Red Wine is a scintillating bottling by the talented Michael Silacci. Showing off an inky core this stunning wine opens with aromas of wild mushroom, red bell pepper, pipe tobacco and leather with Creme de cassis that all are marvelously woven together in the glass. The palate is dense and plush, taking on a wonderful brightness and texture. Graphite, sandalwood, anise and blackberry compote with shades of blueberry cordial and espresso bean all give this an exotic edge The exceedingly long black fruit and mineral driven finish lingers long on the tongue. Showing some refined tannins and wonderful richness this beautiful wine is just starting to hit its peak but will cellar well for decades. Drink 2019-2040- 97

2007 Opus One Red Wine- The 2007 Opus One Red Wine is a scintillating bottling at the twelve year mark. On the nose this takes on decadent chocolate cake with blueberry pie and shades of graphite with tar that all collide in the glass. The texture is refined as this wine shows an incredible elegance. Blueberry compote, Turkish coffee, and dark chocolate shavings with sweet pope tobacco all sing in harmony on the palate. While rich and refined at this stage, the 2007 Opus One will provide drinking enjoyment over the next two plus decades. The seamless quality and viscosity of this wine flirts with perfection Drink 2019-2044- 98

2008 Opus One Red Wine- The 2008 Opus One red wine is up there with the finest wines produced from this storied state. Seductive, rich and utterly captivating, this is one of the silkier efforts that I have tried from superstar winemaker Michael Silacci. On the nose there are highly perfumed aromas of violets that collide with shades of Turkish coffee, anise and creme de cassis. An intriguing vein of blueberry compote greets you on the palate. Plush and round, showing an exceedingly soft mouthfeel, the wine delivers copious dark fruits that mingle with dark chocolate shavings, creosote and blueberry tones. While quite dense the brightness and elegance of this wine is apparent. Seductive now at the eleven year mark, this stunning bottling will have an exceedingly long life ahead of it. Drink 2019-2040- 98

2010 Opus One Red Wine- The 2010 Opus One Red Wine is a simply magical wine from this slightly cooler vintage in the Napa Valley. The wine begins with suggestions of red bell pepper and anise aromas that mingle with the dark fruits and chocolate tones on the nose. The silky, pillowy mouthfeel is exquisite. Mocha, Creme de cassis, anise and creosote flavors all mingle together with a bright sense of minerality on the palate. The freshness imparted is wonderful. At nine years of age this is just an infant  — but it is also highly difficult to resist. Drink 2019-2040- 96

2013 Opus One Red Wine- The 2013 Opus One is an incredible effort that is one of the most massive renditions of this wine I have tasted. On the nose there are deep tar aromas that mingle with shades of sagebrush, mocha and creme de cassis. The silky texture really entices, as does the soft mouthfeel. Massive dark fruits connect with shades of tar, leather, black cherry compote and creme de cassis on the palate. This beautiful wine is still just a baby and has an exceedingly long life ahead of it. You might want to hold off for another couple of years. Drink 2021-2040- 96

2015 Opus One Red Wine- The 2015 Opus One is a monumental wine that is up there with the best that they have produced. Head winemaker Michael Silacci has deftly blended Cabernet Sauvignon (81%) with Cabernet Franc (7%), Merlot (6%), Petit Verdot (4%) and Malbec (2%) to create a stunning Opus One red wine. The nose is highly complex and downright intoxicating showing off creme de cassis, mocha, tar, and shades of Turkish coffee that all build in the glass. There is a seamless quality to the wine that really impresses. Soft and round across the mid-palate, the wine reveals Asian spices. The palate is silky and spumous as the wine shows off an exotic edge with Turkish coffee, black tea, anise and creme de cassis that all impress. The wine finishes strong with minerals and black fruits. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next twenty years. Drink 2020-2040- 98

Cayuse Vineyards

One of the true wine pioneers of North America, Cayuse Vineyards started with an incredible discovery by Christophe Baron in the stony lands of Milton-Freewater. Butt this story really begins in France as eminent vigneron, Christophe Baron, was the youngest heir of the famed Champagne house, Baron Albert. Christophe’s ancestors had worked the land at Baron Albert since 1677. Christophe learned about harvests and wine a young boy and eventually studied viticulture in Burgundy and Champagne. After some travels he was drawn to the Willamette Valley, and was set on making great Pinot Noir. Following more travels he was eventually inspired by the stony terroir of Chateauneuf du Pape to purchase land outside of Walla Walla in Milton-Freewater. He planted his first vineyard in 1997 and the rest is history. While tasting with Christophe and his vigneronne, Elizabeth Bourcier, I couldn’t help but think that this might be the best overall lineup in Cayuse wines that I had tasted. I was absolutely blown away with his new release wines — particularly the consistency of his new Syrah wines.

One of the great wines that I have tried in the past year, the 2016 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Bionic Frog’ Syrah (WWB, 98) is a scintillating and rich bottling, that combines incredible texture, verve and aromatics as well as flavor range. This one of a kind Syrah is simply magical in its youth. Right up there was the 2016 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Cailloux Vineyard’ Syrah (WWB, 97) which has a small percentage of Viognier co-fermented and is absolutely captivating with its Umami, smoked meats and citrus tones. One of the great white wines made in North America that I have tried over the past year, the 2017 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Cailloux VIneyard’ Viognier (WWB, 95) deftly walks the tight rope between tension and richness in the glass for this special varietal. These are very special new wines that any serious wine collector of Pacific Northwest wines will not want to miss. Learn more about this magical new lineup at https://cayusevineyards.com Here are the stunning new wines by Cayuse Vineyards.

2017 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Cailloux Vineyard’ Viognier- The 2017 ‘Cailloux Vineyard’ Viognier was aged in concrete eggs and stainless steel prior to bottling. The nose shows very pretty aromas with white flowers and shades of honeydew melon with nutmeg that all hit the nose. The texture is silky smooth as the wine glides across the mid-palate. The freshness is gorgeous as the wine reveals cantaloupe, kiwi, starfruit and shades of brioche on the palate. This is stunning, ageworthty Viognier. Drink 2019-2029- 95

2017 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Edith’ Rose- Sourced from four rows of Grenache which is grown for Rose, the wine was whole cluster pressed prior to bottling and the wine is kept for another year due to the wine being unfiltered. The wine was aged in both concrete eggs and stainless steel prior to bottling. The nose is very perfumed and pretty red rose, wild strawberry with shades of wild mushroom and orange rind that all mingle nicely in the glass. The texture here is silky smooth as the wine seamlessly glides across the mid-palate. Bright guava and strawberry flavors mingle with wonderful peat moss, wet stone and melon tones all fill the palate. This is Grenache Rose at its finest. Drink 2019-2025- 93

2016 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Flying Pig’ Red Wine- The 2016 ‘Flying Pig’ is a stunning blend of 49% Merlot with 40% Cabernet Franc and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon that was all aged in oak puncheons prior to bottling. Bright red cherry with Hoisin sauce, red bell pepper with white pepper and wet stone all impress on the nose. There is an incredible sense of balance on the mid-palate as the wine reveals wild blackberry, kirsch, wet stone and shades of green peppercorn with Umami on the palate. The freshness and richness of the wine is gorgeous. Highly refined and satisfying in its youth, this true heavyhitter of a wine will age gracefully for another decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 95

2016 Cayuse Vineyards ‘The Lovers’ Red Wine- The 2016 ‘The Lovers’ is a stunning blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Syrah. The wine was aged in a combination of 1500L oak barrels and oak demi-nuides (40% new) prior to bottling. The wine imparts gorgeous black fruits that mingle with Umami, licorice and shades of white truffle that all shine in the glass. The freshness and texture of the wine is simply outstanding. The bright salinity of the wine makes you salivate as ripe red cherry, wild blackberry and shades of black truffle and seaweed flavors all shine brightly on the palate. While outstanding now, this will evolve well for another decade. Drink 2019-2029- 95

2016 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Camaspelo’ Red Wine- The 2016 ‘Camaspelo’ is a proprietary blend  of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot and a touch of Tempranillo that impresses from this exciting vintage. The ‘Camaspelo’ shows wet gravel with black currant, with cigar box and shades of white pepper on the nose. Highly elegant in the mid-palate the wine reveals wonderful Umami with white pepper, wild mushroom, with shades of blackberry and tar on the palate. While outstanding upon release, this outstanding Cabernet based wine will continue to shine for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 95

2016 Cayuse Vineyards ‘The Widowmaker En Chamberlin Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvingon- The 2016 ‘The Widowmaker’ is a gorgeous new bottling by superstar vigneron Christophe Baron. Shades of black tea with Asian spices and black truffle collide with blackberry jam all mingle brightly on the nose. The freshness here is gorgeous as the wine unveils silky tannins that march with dark fruits, black truffle shavings, leather and pipe tobacco and smoky undertones. Lithe and light on its feet, this has wonderful firmness and tension as this elegant wine will cellar well over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 96

2016 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Cailloux Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2016 ‘Caiilloux Vineyard’ Syrah is a simply magical new wine by superstar vigneron Christophe Baron. First made in 1998, this wine was first named ‘Cobblestone Vineyard’ Syrah. The wine has 4% Viognier co-fermented. The nose is hedonistic and downright intoxicating with smoked meats, bacon fat, Umami, green peppercorn and shades of horse manure that all shine brightly on the nose. The freshness and minerality imparted is simply stunning. Wet stone mingles with shades of tar, red cherry candy, green olive tapenade and shades of seaweed with Mandarin orange wine all sing on the palate. The exceedingly long finish lingers. The combination of richness and tension in the wine is simply unparalleled. While a delight to savor nw, this will evolve well another decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 97

2016 Cayuse Vineyards ‘En Cerise Vineyard’ Syrah- The ‘En Cerise Vineard’ Syrah is a simply stunning new wine by Cayuse Vineyards. 100% Syrah, this shows incredible focus with salted ham, Umami, black cherry compote and green peppercorn aromas. The palate is exceedingly delightful with black pepper, Umami, licorice, dark cherry compote and shades of Kalmata olive tapenade. Stunning now, this soft and silky textured wine will provide drinking enjoyment for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 97

2016 Cayuse Vineyards ‘En Chamberlin Vineyard’ Syrah- The ‘En Chamberlin Vineyard’ was planted on July 4th 2004 and is the first vines in this region to be planted with phylloxera resistant rootstock. This Syrah by Cayuse Vineyards shows amazing charcuterie aromas that build with shades of leather, bacon fat, bulls blood, Umami and shades of anise that all collide in the glass. The texture to this wine is gorgeous as racy acidity and a stunning salinity runs through the wine. Blackberry cobbler mingle with shades of bulls blood, Umami, salted meats and black truffle on the palate. Refined and highly gratifying now, this beautiful Syrah will evolve well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 97

2016 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Bionic Frog’ Syrah- The 2016 ‘Bionic Frog’ by superstar vigneron Christophe Baron is a monumental new wine from this storied estate. On the nose this takes on  green peppercorn with horse manure, bacon fat, licorcice and shades of white truffle shavings on this downright seductive nose. The palate slowly unveils a silky mouthfeel that entices. The brightness and salinity of the wine literally makes you salivate as this shows off green olive tapenade, charcuterie, fennel, and shades of wild blackberry all sing marvelously together. Seamless and downright marvelous in its youth, this scintillating new wine will cellar well for another decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 98

2016 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Armada Vineyard’ Syrah- The ‘Armada Vineyard’ Syrah is another stunning Cayuse Syrah which was aged in 10% new demi-nuides for 22 months prior to bottling. Christophe Baron first planted this iconic vineyard in 2001. The nose shows incredible Hoisin sauce, seaweed and black fruits that collide with bright floral and Mandarin orange rind tones on the nose. The palate shows gobs of mouth-watering salinity and minerality with charcuterie with incredible freshness and tension int he wine. Compact and refined, this stunning new release dances on the mouth, leading to the exceedingly long finish. Outstanding in its youth, this will cellar well for another decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 97

2016 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Wallah Wallah Special’ Syrah (1.5L)- The ‘Wallah Wallah Special’ Syrah is a blend of a host of estate vineyards by Cayuse Vineyards. The nose is downright intoxicating with wet stone, black truffle shavings, seaweed and shades of white pepper with peat moss tones that all round out this stunning bouquet. The palate shows tremendous freshness and tension with a silky mouthfeel. Red cherry candy, asphalt, licorice, Parma ham, white truffle shavings and shades of wet stone all mingle on the palate. This is a complete wine and I can’t imagine how beautiful this would be with duck l’orange. While beautiful now this will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 97

2016 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Impulsivo En Chamberlin Vineyard’ Tempranillo- This wine sees a touch more of new French oak (50%) prior to bottling. Aromatically intense, the wine unveils black tea, exotic spices, smoked meats with dried tarragon and blackberry pie that all mingle on the nose. The salinity of this wine is just insanely good as the wine slowly unveils bright black fruits that mingle with Satsuma orange zest, licorice and light peat moss with black truffle shaving tones on the palate. Satisfying and rich on the mouth, this stunning wine is truly one of the best of its kind in North America. Drink 2019-2029- 95

2005 Sauternes Retrospective

Over the past month or so it has been a great pleasure to revisit a really great vintage in Sauternes. 2005 was known for its exceedingly dry summer, as this was the fifth hottest vintage since 1897. A good deal of rainfall in September helped ease the botrytis which later led to morning fog and ideal conditions at harvest. The resultant wines were ones that showed good finesse and ripeness from the abundant botrytis. These are wines that have less unctuous character than 2003 but they show better finesse and minerality. I might see the 2010 as showing somewhat similarly which also has great tension and verve but also excellent richness. 

While I did not try the 2005 Chateau D’YQuem, the star of the vintage is the 2005 Chateau Climens (WWB, 100) which is up there with the best wine of thousands that I have reviewed over the past year. Words make it hard to describe how good this wine is but I can say that this wine deftly walks the tight rope between its unctuous character, beautiful terroir, its insanely good aromatic and flavor range and its vibrant mineral backbone. Quite a surprise was the 2005 Chateau Suduiraut (WWB, 97) which is massive, dense and layered with marvelous richness and acidity. This is a show-stopping Sauternes that you don’t want to miss. 2005 is shaping to be a great vintage to purchase at this stage, and you shouldn’t be afraid to open these wines now. Cheers! 

2005 Chateau Doisy-Vedrines- The 2015 Doisy-Vedrines is a terrific effort from this great vintage. Quite powerful and focused, with an impressive mouthfeel, the wine delivers loads of beeswax, quince, vanilla creme brûlée and butterscotch flavors that mingle with the good sense of minerality. Medium to full-bodied, while this may not have the refinement of the best from this vintage, this is seriously good stuff at the fourteen year mark. Enjoy this over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2033- 93

2005 Chateau La Tour Blanche- The 2005 Chateau La Tour Blanche is a seriously good wine that may not be up there with their 2003 but shows marvelously at this stage in its development. On the nose this takes on some marvelously good range from honeyed caramel to shades of wild mushroom and vanilla cream that all marvelously are woven together in the glass. Soft and inviting, the silky texture entices. A light salinity and stony character runs through the wine, delivering bright roasted pineapple, mango, and apricot creme brûlée flavors that sit nicely with the minerals. A delight to savor now, this still has a decade or more to go. Drink 2019-2033- 93

2005 Chateau Coutet- The 2005 Chateau Coutet opens with orange marmalade and butterscotch that mingles with shades of clove and cinnamon on the nose. There is a marvelous seamless quality that runs through the wine. Vanilla creme brulee, butterscotch and shades of roasted pineapple with stony minerals all enter the palate and mingle nicely together. While not particularly viscous, this has a great sense of minerality and balance. This finishes long with roasted pineapple cream. Drink 2019-2033- 93

2005 Chateau Rieussec- Highly refined and simply stunning, the 2005 Chateau Rieussec is a gorgeous effort that is only starting hit its stride. This intense wine begins with aromas of creme brulee, crushed white flowers, marzipan and hints of vanilla bean. The feeling of softness, power and elegance is quite striking as the wine unveils dense flavors of orange marmalade, poached pear, vanilla creme brulee and bananas foster. The viscosity and intensity of this wine is gorgeous, while the mid-palate glides into the exceedingly long and memorable finish. This beautiful Rieussec still has a long way to go. Drink 2019-2035- 95

2005 Chateau Suduiaraut- Showing off a brilliant golden hue, the 2015 Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes is a monumental wine from this vintage. The citrus components to the nose really entice, as do the tropical fruits and wild mushroom accents that mingle with shades of clove infused pineapple upside down cake. The acidity and mouthfeel to the wine is scintillating, as is the silky texture and light sense of salinity that runs through the wine. The unctuous quality of the wine truly catches you off guard, as this tour de force unveils salted toffee, bananas foster, roasted pineapple and mango chutney flavors all seamlessly come together on the palate. The exceedingly long finish lingers. Remarkable and simply gorgeous at the fourteen year mark. Drink 2019-2040- 97

2005 Chateau Climens- This is the third time I have had the opportunity to taste this magical wine over the past year. The 2005 Chateau Climens is a simply astounding Sauternes. Showing off its golden hue, the wine starts off with an intense bouquet of vanilla creme brulee, honeyed ginger, roasted pineapple and suggestions of butterscotch. The nose is so compelling and complex that it makes you constantly go back to the glass for more. The palate is exceedingly good. Honeyed ginger, lemon curd, vanilla creme brulee, apricot jelly, macadamia nut and butterscotch. The range to this wine is just insanely good as the texture of this wine borders ethereal. Stunning, captivating and simply marvelous, this is a perfect wine made by Chateau Climens and superstar winemaker Berenice Lurton. Drink 2019-2055- 100