Domaine Drouhin Oregon

One of the true Oregon Wine Pioneers, Domaine Drouhin Oregon (DDO) has become one of the best producers of Oregon Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for more than a decade. Wines are moderately priced and reflect their rich Burgundian history. ounded back in in the 1980s, the DDO was founded by famed Burgundy producer, Domaine Drouhin, headed by Robert Drouhin, who decided to purchase land in the Dundee Hills. What was previously only Christmas trees and wheat, the Drouhin family began planting their first vineyards in Oregon. Robert chose his daughter, Véronique, to serve as DDO winemaker, and her brother Philippe Drouhin took responsibility for viticulture.  In 1988, DDO produced its first vintage, from purchased grapes, and in 1989 they built their landmark, four-story gravity flow winery.

I recently had the chance to taste with their general manager, David Millman, and was blown away with the quality of the wines across the board. Prior to professionally reviewing Oregon wines, Domaine Drouhin Oregon has been one of my favorite stops since I first visited the Willamette Valley in 2002. My uncle, Dr. Brian Lueth, first introduced me to this estate, with some epic ‘Laurene’ bottling from the 1990s and early 2000s. Needless to say, quality has remained very high at this famed Oregon estate. Those wines are still singing as I have recently sampled the 2002 ‘Laurene’ Pinot Noir, which is marvelously earthy and still has a ton of poise.

The new release  Pinot Noir wines were downright thrilling, coming from the exciting 2017 vintage. This was a warm vintage that saw a few heat spikes which could be a challenge for some wineries. The 2017 Domaine Drouhin Oregon ‘Laurene’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) is a dense and layered effort that has striking minerality and massive cellaring potential. I was totally blown away with their barrel selection wine that can only be purchased at the winery, their 2017 Domaine Drouhin Oregon ‘Edition Limitee’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) which is a true heavyhitter of a wine that has a silky mouthfeel and is incredibly polished even in its exciting youthful progression. Learned more about this iconic Oregon winery  at http://www.domainedrouhin.com/ Here are the awesome new releases from Domaine Drouhin Oregon. 

2017 Domaine Drouhin ‘Arthur’ Chardonnay- The 2017 ‘Arthur’ Chardonnay is a spectacular new wine by Domaine Drouhin. On the nose this takes on wonderful buttered brioche and banana with wet stone aromatics that meld together in the glass. The palate has great freshness and verve, with a lovely texture. Bright green apple flavors collide with minerals and vanilla cream. The long finish lingers. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2018 Domaine Drouhin ‘Edition Limitee’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Edition Limitee’ Chardonnay is a gorgeous new bottling from this famed estate in the Willamette Valley. On the nose you are immediately drawn to butterscotch and toasted hazelnut tones that come together in the glass. The combination of weight, freshness and texture is downright ethereal. Full-bodied, the seamless quality, almost weightless effect mid-palate is stunning. This finishes extremely long with minerals and vanilla cream. This wine is so seamless and downright delicious that you are constantly brought back to the glass for more delight. Truly a heavyhitter, the 2018 ‘Edition Limitee’ Chardonnay will truly be one for the ages. Drink 2020-2040- 95

2017 Domaine Drouhin ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir shows wonderful white truffle tones that meld with the core of red and dark fruits on this expressive nose. The palate is marvelously well-balanced with bright red cherry and red raspberry tones that connect with shades of teaberry and damp earth. The freshness and richness of the wine is downright outstanding. While marvelous in its youth, the 2017 Domaine Drouhin ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir will cellar well for the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2016 Domaine Drouhin ‘Laurene’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 ‘Laurene’ Pinot Noir is a delightful effort that is showing marvelously in its youth but will provide great drinking enjoyment for decades to come. On the nose this shows off its marvelous damp earth tones that meld with shades of wild blackberry pie and cloves that all mingle together in the glass. The aromatic range is seriously good.  The palate is full-bodied and has simply thrilling texture and range from showing red fruits to exotic spices and lovely peat moss and forest floor tones. Gorgeous now, this simply thrilling wine will have another twenty years ahead of it. Drink 2021-2040- 95

2017 Domaine Drouhin ‘Laurene’ Pinot Noir- Released in Fall 2020, the 2017 ‘Laurene’ isa magical new bottling that has decades to go in the cellar. Not needing a decant, right out of the gate this lively wine opens with lovely black truffle and damp earth tones that meld with red raspberry cordial and shades of cinnamon and clove that all take shape in the glass. The palate is artfully balanced, with scintillating length and texture. Rich dark fruits combine with the peat moss and damp earth tones on the palate. Marvelous in its youth, the 2017 ‘Laurene’ will have a long life ahead of it. Try to give this at least 1-2 years of bottle age before enjoying. Drink 2022-2040- 95

2017 Domaine Drouhin ‘Louise’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 ‘Louise’ Pinot Noir is a magical effort from Domaine Drouhin. Showing serious weight and length, the wine has intense black and red fruits that exotic spices, black truffle and shades of blood orange zest. Full-bodied and intense, this beautiful wine really needs a year or two to fully develop. Drink 2022-2040- 94

2017 Domaine Drouhin ‘Edition Limitee’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 ‘Edition Limitee ‘Pinot Noir is a simply magical new wine by famed winemaker Veronique Drouhin. Needing a lot of time in the bottle to fully unwind, the ‘Edition Limitee’ Pinot now has serious range from red currants to red raspberry cordial and baking spices alongside damp earth tones that all come together magically on the palate. Showing great freshness and verve, the 2017 ‘Edition Limitee’ will have many years to go. Drink 2023-2040- 95

Champagne Bollinger

One of the great historic houses in Champagne, Bollinger remains independently owned and operated. This Champagne house has an exceedingly rich history. Family-managed since 1889, Bollinger maintains more than 150 hectares of vineyards. They produce several labels of their Champagne, including the Vieilles Vignes Françaises, Grande Année and R.D. as well as the non-vintage Special Cuvée. Initially founded in 1829 by Hennequin de Villermont, Paul Renaudin and Jacques Bollinger, the champagne house has roots dating back to 1585 when the Hennequins, one of the Bollinger founding families, owned land in Cramant. In 1803 Jacques Joseph Placide Bollinger was born in Ellwangen, in the kingdom of Wurttemberg, in modern day western Germany. In 1822, he moved to the Champagne region and began work at the Champagne house of Muller Ruinart, which today no longer exists. 

The Champagne house Renaudin Bollinger was founded on February 6, 1829 in Aÿ by Hennequin de Villermont, Paul Levieux Renaudin and Jacques Bollinger. Founder Jacques Joseph Bollinger married Charlotte de Villermont and their two sons Joseph and Georges would later take over Bollinger and began expanding the family estate by purchasing vineyards in nearby villages. The sons also developed the image of the brand, and the British began to take notice of these Champagnes — such as when Bollinger received a Royal Warrant in 1884 from Queen Victoria.

In 1918 Jacques Bollinger, the son of Georges, took over Bollinger. Jacques married Lily, who later took over Bollinger in 1941. Lily expanded production through the purchase of more vineyards, but is best known for traveling the world to promote the brand. Bollinger was modernized under the direction of Claude d'Hautefeuille, who acquired additional vineyards and developed the brand internationally. Since 1994, Ghislain de Mongolfier has managed Bollinger. A great-grandson of the founder, Mongolfier has also served as president of the Association Viticole Champenoise since 2004, after heading the Commission of Champagne for 10 years. Brilliantly, Bollinger has been well-marketed in numerous James Bond films including some of my favorites like Live and Let Die and a bottle of Bollinger during an epic car race during the start of Goldeneye. 

I recently had a chance to review two Bollinger wines — one that was youthful and another that was highly vinous. I was very impressed with their new release non-vintage wine, the NV Champagne Bollinger ‘Special Cuvee’ Brut Champagne (WWB, 91) which is seriously good, with great musty tones and freshness. I had the opportunity to try the 2002 Champagne Bollinger ‘La Grand Annee’ Brut Champagne (WWB, 95) which showed even more earthy and musty terroir and great citrus and tree fruit flavors. This was a truly special bottle that I will not soon forget. Learn more about this special Champagne house at Here are the great Champagnes of Bollinger.

NV Champagne Bollinger ‘Special Cuvee’ Brut Champagne-  The NV ‘Special Cuvee’ by Bollinger is a fantastic new release Champagne that has wonderful verve and energy. Marvelously textured the wine shows off toasty brioche and wild mushroom tertiary tones alongside a core of green apple and nutmeg flavors. This has the stuffing and energy to cellar for another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 91

2002 Champagne Bollinger ‘La Grand Annee’ Brut Champagne- This richly hued Champagne is a compelling blend of primarily Pinot Noir smaller portions Chardonnay. I absolutely adore where the 2002 ‘La Grand Annee’ is showing now at the eighteen year mark. For the price, this is up there with many of the great wines made from this stellar vintage in Champagne. Aromatically intense, the wine ranges from sourdough bread and lively Gravenstein apples to suggestions of honeydew melon and exotic spices that all take shape in the glass. The richness and tension of the wine is simply marvelous. Generous and round, the 2002 ‘La Grand Annee’ takes on nutmeg infused Challah bread and suggestions of Pink Lady apple with kumquat zest and shades of white truffle shavings on the palate. The long finish lingers on the tongue. Fully gratifying and absolutely singing at this stage in its development, the 2002 Bollinger ‘La Grand Annee’ will have another two decades to go in the cellar. Drink 2020-2038- 95

Review: British Airways First Class, London to Seattle

It isn’t every day that you are able to fly First Class on British Airways. But when you do, you savor every minute. This is now my third time doing First Class on British Airways and the level of service and overall experience is different but rivals flying First Class on Cathay Pacific, and is only slightly short of Emirates First Class as does literally every airline in the world. It was a highly memorable journey back to Seattle.

Admittedly, I hadn’t planned on that unique travel experience at all. Upon arrival to Terminal 5 at London Heathrow I had thankfully been upgraded to Business Class, thanks to my good friend, Deano’s, generosity. Check in at Terminal 5 was going marvelously and when I asked for a paid upgrade, I was nearly floored when I found that a paid upgrade to First Class would be 550 pounds. This not only would give me one of the premier flying experiences but would also afford a long visit to one of the world’s great airport lounges, the Concorde Room. Entrance to the Concorde Room is only allowed with a long-haul paid ticket in First Class — unless you have the top tier status with British Airways which will grant you access regardless of ticket status. My generous friend has formerly had the top tier status at British and he had graciously gifted me into the Concorde Room several times. I was due to return the favor. We had plenty of time since we had arrived around 11:00 in the morning and my plane was set to depart at 14:45.

As we entered the First Class security screening, I was impressed how quickly we advanced to the other side. We marched past the First Class lounge and into the Concorde Room where we were greeted by reception and made our way to the beautifully appointed bar area. It had been a year since my last visit to the Concorde Room and an espresso martini was in mind to start my long voyage out. My friend ordered one of the premier champagnes of the world, the NV Laurent Perrier ‘Grand Siecle’ Champagne (WWB, 95) which is a non-vintage champagne that is now in its 24th edition and pulls from vintages more than a decade of age. After indulging in part of my martini I ordered a glasses ‘Grand Siecle’ to properly mark the occasion as we both toasted to the good life.

The bar area had several canapés which we indulged in. We chatted about our football weekend, visiting the Emirates Stadium and watching firsthand as my beloved Arsenal pulled off a glorious victory some two days before. The Concorde Room also pours one of the great sparkling wines in England, the 2015 Hattingley Valley ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 93) which is dense and layered, showing great chalky terroir and comes from an electric vintage in Hampshire. Ironically I had visited this great winery only the day before.

We were both growing rather hungry and made our way to the First dining experience at the Concorde Room which is run as a great restaurant. Sitting down into our private booth we ordered a glass of Champagne and I tried their burger which was perfectly cooked, medium rare and had pieces of well-salted pancetta bacon and an unusually good special sauce.

I wanted to order a classic British dish as well and reveled in their ‘Chicken Supreme’ which was soft and buttery with a juicy texture. The sinfully good, Bordelaise style sauce had great richness and showed a heavy dusting of peppercorn spice. 

It was now time to depart the Concorde Room as I said my goodbyes to my friend and made my way to the aircraft. Boarding was quick and expedient as you would expect with British Airways flights. Immediately I was greeted by the flight attendants and my individual stewardess, Sarah, who showed me to seat ‘1A’ which was located at the top right of the aircraft. I sat down and stretched my 6’5’’ legs all the way which was remarkably comfortable.

Immediately we were served a glass of champagne, their signature NV Laurent Perrier ‘Grand Siecle’ Champagne which I had enjoyed in the Concorde Room. My flight attended expertly opened a bottle and poured me a glass as I glanced at the other planes on the runway. 

The controls for your seat are operated by a hand-held remote which was easy to use. I asked for some headphones which were noise-cancelling and extremely comfortable. Pajamas were given to me, a modern upgrade from the last set that I had on my flight last year. Their toilet kit was also recently upgraded, with a highly modern, suede bag. The one thing I would say is British First should really offer a pajama size XL as the L size doesn’t fit people as tall as me. I slipped on my pajamas and perused the menu and wine list. 

In the dining section I read about the cutlery choice for the first class cabin which is made in England and added to the fine dining experience high above the clouds. The wine list was marked by the stunning aforementioned Champagne which is up there with the top wine/Champagne served in any First Class cabin. I loved seeing the 2015 Hattingley Valley ‘Blanc de Noirs’ served as well since I have long reviewed those wines and have visited the winery now on two occasions. I found their Rose Champagne, the NV Lanson ‘Rose’ Champagne (WWB, 90) to be good but rather pedestrian compared to the other two downright killer selections. 

I was generally unimpressed with the rest of the wine list, including middle-tier Bordeaux from the unheralded 2012 vintage and a brand new 2018 Chablis which served its purpose but left me wanting more. Fortunately for me, I kept my old reliable top tier Champagne flowing. British Airways really should serve a top notch Bordeaux wine in their First Class cabin. Compared to other top First Class cabins (Emirates, Cathay Pacific etc.) the British Airways wine list really could improve with some expert help from a good wine reviewer or writer. Then again, on my last Emirates flight I savored 2007 Opus One, so that is indeed an exceedingly high standard of wine to be served high above the clouds.

We effortlessly took off and soon were served some starters, which were chosen to match my top notch Champagne. They were all excellent and were taken down within a few moments. Extra points goes to British for placing a few morsels of Osteria Caviar on their prawn appetizer. That one was particularly savored. 

Sarah graciously prepared my table and I sampled some fresh breads with a smattering of olive oil. I wanted to order several menu items, so it was a challenge choosing them. The menu had so many delightful selections that it was exceedingly difficult to choose. I chose a few mainstays in my diet, the creamy burrata with pesto and beetroot, as well as the local Scottish smoked salmon which was served with fennel and mustard dressing.

Both portions were perfect and the salmon in particular was very fresh and satisfying, thickly cut and highly satisfying. The mustard sauce beautifully connected with the salty flavors. I was persuaded by Sarah, to try their Vichyssoise soup which she poured in front of me. 

For my main dish I ordered the pan fried fillet of Halibut which was served in a rich and savory crab sauce. I was floored with the quality of this dish as this was perfectly soft in the middle and magically paired with the saline steak in the Champagne. Simply put, it was a match made in heaven. Food quality throughout was not only very high but the way that the food was served and the plating was second to none. Each dish looked simply marvelous.

I was not thrilled with either dessert wine, as British always could do better in this direction. If nothing else, they should choose a Sauternes that has some age, which is not difficult to do or find. Sauternes from the 2015 vintage are simply not ready to drink at the moment. Dessert, the chocolate chili fondant, was delightful on its own without a wine accompiament. 

However disappointing the dessert wine selection might have been, the shining star of the First Class experience was the exemplary level of service that I experienced throughout my flight. Whether it was preparing my bed for some rest, chatting about the wine industry, or serving wine and food, Sarah was absolutely top notch throughout. This is the kind of service that truly rivals Emirates First Class and really puts any United States operated First Class cabin to shame (American, Alaska, United etc.).

It was time for some rest, but beforehand a nightcap was in order. I ordered one of my favorite Scotch whiskeys, the Johny Walker Blue Label which is a blended whiskey that in my opinion rivals anything in its price range ($250.00). I enjoyed my three plus hour slumber and then woke up comfortably. Special kudos to British Airways in designing a face mask that not only fits my large head but is sinfully plush and comfortable. 

It was now time to indulge in afternoon tea. This was done in typical British high style, as the scones served were freshly baked and rich. I savored the jam and buttered filled scone as the experience harkened back to my childhood and the smell of scones baking in the oven. Since First Class were offering some other food  items, I ordered some more smoked salmon and a quail egg which was light and perfectly suited for another glass of Champagne. We slowly made our decent across the Canadian rockies and into eastern Washington before our arrival. What an beautiful journey it was back to Seattle and I most certainly will be back enjoying a beautiful First Class experience with British Airways.

Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Champagne

One of the great historic Champagne houses, Louis Roederer only produces their ‘Cristal’ Champagne in specific vintages. ‘Cristal’ Champagne was created in 1876 to satisfy the demanding tastes of Tsar Alexander II. The emperor asked Louis Roederer to reserve the House’s best cuvée for him every year as he was fond of Louis Roederer’s style. This Champagne was initially distinguished by being presented in a flat-bottomed, transparent lead-crystal bottle. The ‘Cristal’ brand was named after the lead-crystal bottle, which is particularly transparent and luminous. ‘Cristal’ Champagne blending is typically around 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir, although that varies on the vintage. Cristal is aged for 6 years in Louis Roederer’s cellars and then left for a further 8 months after dégorgement. The ‘Cristal’ Rose Champagne is always composed of estate fruit and the wine is primarily fermented and aged in steel, but roughly 15-20% of the blend is aged in oak. Over time the cellar master has been lowering dosage to 8-9 g/l. 

They have just released their 2012 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Champagne (WWB, 97) which is an absolutely stunning wine that presents better out of a white wine glass (Riedel Sauvignon Blanc in particular) rather than champagne flutes. The wine is dense and layered, with serious range and tension. It really needs another year or two in the bottle to fully present itself but it is every bit stunning right now. This marvelous wine has decades to go.

Learn more about this great Champagne at http://www.louis-roederer.com/en/wine/cristal

2012 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Chanpagne- The 2012 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Chanpagne is a thrilling, dense new offering from this historic house. On the nose this takes on rich brioche and baked Pazzaz apple flavors that combine with lighter kumquat and marzipan tones that all meld in the glass. Fresh and vibrant, with a remarkably silky mousse, the weight and richness of this wine is impressive, while the bright character provides a wonderful foil. Rich layers of lemon zest dusted brioche with toasted hazelnut and Gravenstein apple with lighter vanilla cream and starfruit tones seamlessly combine on the palate. As several hours develop, the wine pieces itself together more magically with the intense citrus components melding with its weighty stature. Marvelous at this stage in its development, the 2012 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Chanpagne will have an exceedingly long life ahead of it. Try to give this at least another year of bottle development before savoring. Drink 2021-2040- 97

Long Shadows Vintners

As we carry on through this glorious Washington Wine Month, I wanted to introduce you to one of the stars of our 3rd Annual Critic’s Choice of Washington Event — Long Shadows Vintners. Long Shadows has made their name by crafting outstanding red wines with a superstar cast of winemaking talent that spans the globe. I have tasted at Long Shadows for well over a decade and year in, year out, they are one of the most consistently good producers of Washington red wine. Their wines age marvelously as well. Over the past year I have had a chance to try a few absolutely epic bottles of their ‘Pedestal’ Merlot, made by famed enologist Michel Rolland. The 2006 and 2007 ‘Pedestal’ Merlot wines are still going strong.

Yesterday I reviewed the new Long Shadows releases for review and they were simply magical. The 2017 Long Shadows ‘Saggi’ Red Wine (WWB, 94) has incredible earthy character and beautiful range. This is a truly one of a kind wine that rivals any new world Sangiovese.  I adored the new 2017 Long Shadows ‘Feather’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) which is remarkable in its youth but will provide drinking enjoyment for decades to come. This is truly thrilling Washington Cabernet with its wonderful sense of place and elegance, alongside a dense core of dark fruits. Learn more about this amazing winery at http://www.longshadows.com/ Here are the amazing new release wines from Long Shadows.

2017 Long Shadows ‘Saggi’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Saggi’ by Long Shadows is a thrilling follow up to the gorgeous 2016 bottling. A blend of mainly Sangiovese (59%) with smaller portions Cabernet Sauvignon (24%) and Syrah (17%), the ‘Saggi’ is truly a one of a kind wine made by the talented Giles Nicault. Needing a one hour decant to be fully aroused, the ‘Saggi’ shows lovely smoky tones that meld with red cherry preserves, leather and underbrush aromatics that all build in the glass. The palate is silky and soft, with a bright sense of minerality and wonderful texture. You are greeted to a rich core of red fruits that dance with citrus rind accents, milk chocolate and damp stone tones on the palate. Showing wonderful length and elegance, the 2017 ‘Saggi’ is wonderful to enjoy in its youth and will provide drinking enjoyment over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 94

2017 Long Shadows ‘Feather’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Made by superstar winemaker, Randy Dunn, of Dunn Vineyards, the 2017 ‘Feather’ by Long Shadows is a masterful effort from this exciting warmer vintage in Washington. Once on the nose there is a lovely round core of toasty oak that wraps around the rich dark fruits, sagebrush and chocolate fudge aromatics that all meld in the glass. The palate is silky smooth, revealing a round and generous mouthfeel. The seamless effect created mid-palate is utterly fantastic. Black currants and blackberry cordial dance with shades of Black Forest Cake and espresso bean on this highly complex palate. This finishes long with dark fruits and a beam of minerality. While enticing to savor now, the 2017 ‘Feather’ will have a long life ahead of it. If enjoying in its youth, be sure to afford a two hour decant prior to enjoying. Drink 2021-2040- 95

Le Pigeon and Canard PDX

Last weekend I had the great opportunity to meet one of the Pacific Northwest’s true culinary geniuses @fitchefpdx Gabriel Rucker, owner of @lepigeonpdx which I consider one of the top restaurants in our region. Humble and down to earth, Gabriel crafts his dishes using the freshest ingredients and his creative lens crafts preparations like Foie GrasTom Kha or the Thai style crispy trout lettuce wrap (upper R). He is a dedicated athlete and pushes those in the restaurant industry to exercise pre and post-shift rather than meet for drinks. Gabriel is an inspiration to our Pacific Northwest food and wine community.

Ponzi Vineyards

One of the historic Oregon wineries, Ponzi Vineyards has a great story that began back in 1960. During that time Dick and Nancy Ponzi moved their young family to the Willamette Valley to focus on making great Pinot Noir. They ended up purchasing 20 acres on a small farm just southwest of Portland, Oregon. While this was quite the risk, they both new that the Willamette Valley's climate would be perfect for Burgundian varieties. Pinot noir cuttings were planted, and in 1970 Ponzi Vineyards was founded.

Today Ponzi Vineyards is led by the Ponzi family's second generation: President and Director of Sales and Marketing, Anna Maria Ponzi and Winemaker Luisa Ponzi. Ponzi now has 130 acres of family-owned vineyards — all of which are LIVE Certified Sustainable, the world's highest standard for sustainable viticulture and enology. The new wines by Ponzi were beautiful across the board. I loved the new 2015 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Brut Rose’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 90) which is refreshing and shows a good astringency with delicate red fruits. Ponzi has gained a sterling reputation for their Chardonnay wines and their latest release, the 2016 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay (WWB, 92) is a spectacular effort that has a gorgeous texture and wonderful length. Learn more about these great wines at https://www.ponzivineyards.com Here are the beautiful new wines from Ponzi Vineyards. 

2015 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Brut Rose’ Sparkling Wine- Intense raspberry and teaberry aromas with citrus rind accents fill in the nose. The texture is soft as lighter red fruits dance with melon and orange rind and damp earth tones in this pretty sparkling wine. Enjoy this in the short-term. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2018 Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Blanc- Sourced from the Chehalem Mountains AVA, the 2018 Pinot Blanc delivers bright lemon zest and cantaloupe tones with suggestions of lychee that all build in the glass. The soft texture is gorgeous as baking spices and Pink Lady apple flavors mingle with the mineral and earthy tones. This is really good for the price. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2018 Ponzi Vineyards Arneis- The 2018 Arneis by Ponzi Vineyards shows lithe citrus and melon flavors that mingle with minerals and shades of peat moss. Complex and generous, with a soft mouthfeel, this is absolutely singing in its youth and will provide drinking enjoyment over the next five years. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2016 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay- Rich and elegant, the 2016 ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay opens with vanilla cream and orchard fruits that mingle with the melon and wet stone tones on this expressive nose. The palate has great weight and freshness with a long and lingering cream and mineral-driven finish. Fantastic now, this will continue to evolve well for a decade. Drink 2020-2029- 92

Va Piano

One of the great wineries on the south side of the Walla Walla Valley, Va Piano, or ‘go slowly’ in Italian, was started by Walla Walla native Justin Wylie. Va Piano has the luxury of sourcing from some of the top vineyards in the state including the DuBrul, Stoney Vine, and Les Collines Vineyards. Justin’s first first commercial crush in the fall of 2003 and soon later Va Piano was born. He has seen the valley grow and his winery production has expanded considerably as well.

Justin is down to earth and a downright awesome guy to chat wine with. His new wines were beautiful across the board, all coming from the 2017 vintage which saw slightly more moderate weather but still goes down as a warm vintage in Washington, particularly compared to the most recent 2019 vintage. His 2017 Va Piano ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah (WWB, 92) has wonderful depth and smoky tones, with a soft mouthfeel. This is seriously good stuff for the price. The best wine I tried was the scintillating 2017 Va Piano ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Syrah (WWB, 94) which showing amazing range and elegance from this very special vineyard in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA.  Learn more about these fantastic wines at http://www.vapianovineyards.com Here are the great new release wines by Va Piano. 

2017 Va Piano ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah- Smoky and savory tones round out this expressive nose. The palate is medium to full-bodied and shows wonderful earthy elegance with a deep core of red and dark fruits. The long finish lingers as this seriously good Syrah will cellar well for the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2017 Va Piano Cabernet Sauvignon- This shows off beautiful sagebrush and black licorice tones on the nose. The palate has medium tannins with a wonderfully ripe core of blackberry cobbler, mocha and tar flavors. The texture is soft and generous, making this beautiful wine truly sing. If enjoying in its youth, be sure to give it an hour in the decanter for the tannins to soften. Drink 2020-2030- 91

2017 Va Piano ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Deeply perfumed once in the glass, the 2017 Va Piano ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows off a rich core of dark fruits with suggestions of mocha and damp earth tones that all mingle on the bouquet. The palate has a wonderful sense of elegance and verve, with a silky texture. Fantastic to enjoy in its youth, this great new Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2017 Va Piano ‘Uniti’ Red Wine- A Right Bank style of wine made by the talented Justin Wylie, the 2017 ‘Uniti’ shows lovely sagebrush and red bell pepper tones that mingle with the ripe dark fruits on this expressive nose. The palate is silky smooth, reveling in medium to full-bodied red and dark fruit flavors with black tea and milk chocolate undertones. This is seriously good in its youth and will continue to evolve well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2017 Va Piano ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Syrah- One of the great vineyards in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA, the Stoney Vine Vineyard sells fruit to some of the state’s most esteemed wineries. Right away you are captivated with the Umami tones that mingle with bulls blood, green olive tapenade and red cherry candy aromatics that all meld together in the glass. The seamless texture of the wine truly entices as bright red fruits and citrus rind tones meld with shades of horse manure, green olives and exotic spices. Absolutely sensational right now, the 2017 ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Syrah will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 94

2017 Va Piano ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2017 Va Piano ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ Syrah is a gorgeous effort by the talented Justin Wylie. The nose shows great aromatic range from shades of white pepper and sagebrush that combine with the bright red and dark fruits. The palate has wonderful freshness and verve, with a soft, generous mouthfeel. With marvelous length, the finish lingers exceedingly long on the tongue. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2017 Va Piano ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Syrah- It is only fitting that Justin Wylie make wine from one of his investments in the Walla Walla Valley, the Eritage Vineyard, which is not so far from downtown Walla Walla amongst miles of wheat fields. The nose shows generous dark fruits that mingle with the lovely spicy and earthy undertones. Soft and generous, a deep core of red and dark fruits greet you on the palate, with very light tannins and a slight veil of salinity. Gorgeous now, the 2017 ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Syrah will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2017 Va Piano ‘Portteus Vineyard’ Syrah- Dense, and decadent, the 2017 Va Piano ‘Portteus Vineyard’ Syrah is an impressive effort. A deep core of red and dark fruits mingle with sagebrush and chocolate fudge flavors on the palate. Mineral-driven, and showing ample finesse, the 2017 Va Piano ‘Portteus Vineyard’ Syrah will cellar well for the next decade. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2017 Va Piano ‘DuBrul Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Winemaker Justin Wylie is one of the few people who can source from this esteemed vineyard in the Yakima Valley. A rich core of black cherry cordial and black tea mingle together aromatically with sagebrush and thyme undertones. The palate is almost weightless and highly elegant with medium tannins and medium to full-bodied dark fruit flavors that mingle with the lovely chocolate and spicy undertones. Generous and showing great length, the 2017 Va Piano ‘DuBrul Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2017 Va Piano ‘Scooteney Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This Red Mountain AVA Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon shows intense graphite and Turkish coffee aromatics that meld with the ripe wild blackberry cordial tones on this expressive nose. The palate has good freshness and richness with full-bodied blackberry and black cherry flavors with espresso bean and sagebrush accents. Seriously good now, the 2017 Va Piano ‘Scooteney Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for decades. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2017 Va Piano ‘Rosebud Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Located on the Wahluke Slope, the Rosebud Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon opens with tar and mocha tones that mingle with the ripe blackberry compote and damp earth undertones that take shape in the glass. Rich and layered, with light tannins, the blackberry cobbler, mocha, creosote and anise flavors all come together marvelously in the glass. Generous, with great length, the 2017 Va Piano ‘Rosebudl Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 93 

Passing Time

One of the great winery projects in Washington, Passing Time has a beautiful story that was many years in the making. More than a decade ago two NFL Quarterbacks, Hall of Famer Dan Marino and Washington Husky legend, Damon Huard, were both playing for the Miami Dolphins. Damon and Dan talked about someday about owning a winery together and they finally made that dream a reality. 

Through Marino and Huard would sample top wines of the world together, but they were struck with how many great wines were being made in Washington — for a highly reasonable price. They remained friends and eventually started their winery in Woodinville, with the 2012 vintage being their first wines made. Since that time they have achieved great national acclaim for their wines and I have been impressed with these wines since they were first released.

It was a brilliant idea to hire Chris Peterson to serve as their winemaker, as he is one of the great winemakers in Washington State. Chris was the first graduate of Walla Walla Community College’s Enology and Viticulture program and and spent eight years at DeLille training under eminent winemaker Chris Upchurch. Peterson has crafted some beautiful new wines, none more so than his 2017 Passing Time ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) which is a silky wine that has tremendous verve and richness. This is one for the cellar. Even better is their new reserve bottling, the 2017 Passing Time ‘1311 Block’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 96) which is amongst the best Cabernet Sauvignons from Washington that I have reviewed over the past year. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.passingtime.com Here are my reviews of the gorgeous new wines by Passing Time.

2017 Passing Time ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Passing Time ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a gorgeous wine that combines fruit sourced from the Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge Vineyards. Needing a one hour decant to fully evolve in the glass, the ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon slowly begins to unveil layers of creme de cassis, mocha, tar and shades of anise that all mingle together in unison. The palate has great freshness and verve, with a silky mouthfeel. While obviously deep and rich, the wine conveys a marvelous sense of elegance, as deep dark fruits collide with minerals, sagebrush and milk chocolate tones on the palate. Highly refined, this fantastic bottling by superstar winemaker Chris Peterson will have a very long life ahead of it. Be sure to give this a long, 1-2 hour decant, if enjoying in its nascent phase. Drink 2021-2040- 94

2017 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a thrilling blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller portions Merlot (7%) and Cabernet Franc (5%). Right away you are greeted with the fresh sage and milk chocolate tones that connect with the deep core of dark fruits on this expressive nose. The palate is silky smooth, showing a delightful mouthfeel that entices. Black licorice and spice box flavors mingle with suggestions of Black Forest Cake and black olive tapenade, offering a light beam of salinity across the mid-palate. Rich and generous, with a strong acid backbone, this wine delights in its youth and will provide drinking enjoyment for decades to come. Drink 2021-2040- 95

2017 Passing Time ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a gorgeous new bottling by Passing Time. Nearly all sourced from the Klipsun and Red Mountain Vineyards, the wine opens with intense exotic spices that meld with shades of black tea, blackberry compote and mocha, with creosote undertones on this beautiful bouquet. Dense, showing light tannins and a soft mouthfeel, the wine unveils layers of dark fruits that collide with tar, damp earth and a wonderful sense of minerality. A complete wine, the ‘Red Mountain’ bottling is showing beautifully now and will continue to evolve for at least two more decades. Be sure to give this at least a one hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2021-2040- 95

2017 Passing Time ‘Block 1311’ Cabernet Sauvignon- I had the great pleasure to host Damon Huard and Passing Time as part of my Third Annual Critic’s Choice of Washington Event. Towards the end of the event, Damon took me aside and had me try one of his wines blind. I was honestly completely floored by what he poured for me, the 2017 ‘Block 1311’ named after Passing Time founders Dan Marino and Damon Huard. The ‘Block 1311’ is a masterpiece by superstar winemaker Chris Peterson that was sourced from the esteemed Wallula Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills,. Right out of the gate this wine shows incredible finesse, with a seamless quality that gracefully glides across the mid-palate. Generous, with serious length, the wine shows off a massive core of dark fruits with beautiful Asian spice notes, as well as creosote and Turkish coffee tones. Simply stunning in its youth, the ‘1311’ will have an exceedingly long life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2045- 96

Elizabeth Chambers Cellar

Elizabeth ChamOne of the beautiful stops in McMinnville, Oregon, Elizabeth Chambers Cellar is a fantastic, historic site for tasting wine. Their outdoor space is simply terrific on a warm summer day.  Elizabeth Chambers started her wine career in 1993, shortly after her mother Carolyn, a well-respected business and civic leader in Oregon, acquired Hinman Vineyards (later renamed Silvan Ridge). At the time there were considerably fewer Oregon wineries and Liz worked hard to establish Silvan Ridge as a powerful wine brand.

In 2005, Liz bought a historic winemaking facility in what was formerly a McMinnville power plant. She acquired this great building first erected in 1926 and created her namesake winery. Finally in 2013 Elizabeth Chambers opened and has been producing high quality wines since that time, At the helm is Drew Voit, who has been former assistant winemaker at Domaine Serene for four years before joining Elizabeth Chambers.

His new wines for Elizabeth Chambers are seriously good across the board. I absolutely loved the new 2019 Elizabeth Chambers Rose (WWB, 90) which has wonderful freshness and verve, with a marvelous texture. Look to the downright awesome 2017 Elizabeth Chambers ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 92) showing a great expression of Pinot Noir with serious range and tension. Learn more about these great wines at https://elizabethchamberscellar.com Here are the great new wines by Elizabeth Chambers.

2019 Elizabeth Chambers Rose- Very pretty red fruits dance with shades of honeydew melon on this enticing nose. The palate is beautifully textured with lighter red raspberry, guava and teaberry flavors that mingle with the good sense of minerality. Enjoy this in the short-term while the brightness remains intact. Drink 2020-2024- 90

2017 Elizabeth Chambers ‘Winemaker’s Cuvee’ Pinot Noir- Deeply colored, the 2017 ‘Winemaker’s Cuvee’ by Elizabeth Chambers shows a soft, pillowy texture with a deep core of red and dark fruits. The citrus rind and damp earth accents of this wine round everything out, as the 2017 ‘Winemakers’ Cuvee’ will cellar well over the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2017 Elizabeth Chambers ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from this famed Eola-Amity Hills Vineyard, the 2017 ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir opens with exotic spices that meld with the core of rich red fruits and earthy undertones on the nose. The palate is soft and generous, showing off a ripe mouthfeel. Deep dark fruits collide with orange zest, cinnamon and suggestions of  black truffle crudo on this expressive palate. Fantastic now, the ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir will evolve well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2017 Elizabeth Chambers ‘Lazy River Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 ‘Lazy River Vineyard’ Pinot Noir opens with rose water and peat moss tones that collect momentum with the rich ripe red fruits that all mingle in the glass. The palate shows a good freshness and a light dusting of salinity that races through the red cherry and red currant with citrus rind flavors. Bright and energetic, I can see this cellaring well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2030- 91

Force Majeure ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah

On rare occasion I find it absolutely imperative to write about a single wine that stands out in my memory. One of the great wines that has been made over the past two years, the ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah by Force Majeure and maestro Todd Alexander, has become one of the cult Washington and Oregon wines (state dependent on who you speak to). Rather than focus on what state this is made in, the wine deserves full careful examination.

It has become no secret that the ‘SJR Vineyard’ is one of the sacred grounds in Oregon. Walk through the vineyard and you will find one of the most meticulous, carefully managed sites in the Pacific Northwest. Robertson serves as vineyard manager and her background in science gives her an edge with how to crop this great site and how to take care with challenging conditions that the Rocks District can face (including heat pushing 140 degrees with the heating impact of the large cobblestones).

Todd Alexander has wanted to make a wine from the Walla Walla Rocks District since he first began winemaking several years back at Force Majeure. While the Force Majeure lineup leans on their outstanding Red Mountain vineyard, this ‘SJR Vineyard’ project is a stellar addition to their great lineup that was started with a bang with their 2016 release (WWB, 97). 

The 2017 Force Majeure ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah (WWB, 97) is every bit as good as last year’s wine. Texturally ethereal, this deftly walks the tightrope between weight and finesse. The aromatic and flavor range imparted in this wine is downright thrilling. In short, the wine is so good that you will simply need to try for yourself — but act fast because this is a highly allocated, limited production bottling that will no doubt sell out quickly. Here is my review of the spellbinding 2017 ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah by Force Majeure and superstar winemaker Todd Alexander.

2017 Force Majeure ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2017 ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah by Force Majeure is a tour de force in Washington and Oregon wine. Not needing any decant, the ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah bursts out of the glass with Hoisin sauce and Umami aromatics that dramatically combine with shades of green olive tapenade, and white pepper dusted bacon fat that all take shape in the glass. The palate has a seamless quality, effortlessly showing off its soft mouthfeel and pillowy texture that mingles with a solid acid backbone. Decadent blackberry cobbler flavors sing in unison with suggestions of milk chocolate covered dark cherry, smoked brisket, creosote and roasted dates. A complete wine, the 2017 Force Majeure ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah is fantastic in its youth will provide drinking enjoyment for a decade or more, picking up more savory and tertiary components as it gracefully ages. Drink 2020-2032- 97

Januik and Novelty Hill

Andrew Januik is one or the bright talents in Washington wine. Jovial, candid, confident and easy to talk to, Andrew has been training under his father for a really long time. He’s worked vintages spanning the globe. ‘We’ve had a really good run’ Andrew said with confidence when talking about the recent vintages in Washington. Consistency is something that you have come to admire from the wines that come from Januik and Novelty Hill. One of the great stops on the Woodinville Wine Country trail, Januik was founded by eminent Washington wine pioneer Mike Januik, who formerly was head winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle and Col Solare before starting his own great project. The winery is modern and spacious, with one of the area’s top outdoor spaces. If you have never been to Januik/Novelty Hill, then you are in for a treat.

While the space is gorgeous, the wines are even better. The best Rose that they have made in my opinion is the new 2019 Spring Run Rose (WWB, 90) which has vibrant minerality and just a hint of sweetness. I was really impressed by the 2017 Januik ‘Cold Creek Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 92) which shows the great brightness from this exciting vintage in Washington. The red wines from Januik and Novelty Hill were really impressive across the board. One great value is their 2016 Novely Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Merlot (WWB, 92) which carries nearly everything you want in a great Washington Merlot for under thirty bucks.  Learn more about these great wines at  

2019 Spring Run Rose- The 2019 Spring Run shows sweet strawberry and shades of guava that take shape on the nose. The freshness of thew wine shows marvelously with lighter red fruits that dance with shades of citrus rind.The light kiss of sweetness and light salinity and savory edge is lovely. This is a super refreshing Rose wine that needs a warm summer day. Drink 2020-2023- 90

2018 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Roussanne- This 100% Rousssanne wine shows nice buttered bread and nutmeg character with shades of macadamia nut that all the meld in harmony. The freshness and texture is truly outstanding with the light nutty and flinty toners. This is every bit outstanding that will best be enjoyed in the short-term while the wonderful brightness remains. Drink 2020-2025- 92

2017 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2017 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ is another great effort from this outstanding winery. Right away you notice the evocative nose, filled with citrus and buttered bread tones that connect with the lighter musty undertones aromatically. The mouthfeel and textural elements are gorgeous, as is the exceedingly long finish. This effort is every bit outstanding by the talented Andrew Januik. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2017 Januik ‘Cold Creek Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This warm vintage site Chardonnay shows wonderful brioche and lemon curd aromatics that are woven together in the glass. The brightness and wonderful mouthfeel both entice as the wine slowly yields kumquat and green apple flavors that combine with vanilla cream accents. The long, vanilla cream and mineral-driven finish lingers. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2017 Januik ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Riesling- Januik has been producing this wine for over a decade and this is one of the great Rieslings they have produced. This dry, Trocken style Riesling (8 g/l) shows pretty apricot and white rose water aromatics that mingle together in the glass. The freshness imparted is lovely, as the silky texture entices. Lychee and Pink Lady apple flavors greet the wonderful brightness in the wine. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2016 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Merlot- The 2016 ‘Stillwater Creek Merlot’ is an outstanding value by Andrew Januik that has beautiful shape and purity of fruit. Right away the Merlot shows lovely red cherry with cocoa powder and shades of damp earth that take shape in the glass. Round and generous, the lovely mouthfeel combines with bright red fruits with milk chocolate accents. This is seriously good for the price at a mere twenty eight dollars, as this wine is best enjoyed over the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2028- 92

2017 Januik ‘Klipsun Vineyard’ Merlot- The 2017 ‘Klipsun Vineyard’ Merlot is another awesome offering by Januik. You are immediately drawn to the deep aromatics of milk chocolate shavings, black currants and shades of tar that connect with the lighter herbal undertones that all sing together in the glass. The combination of texture and richness really entices as thew wine is lined with generous dark fruits and chocolate fudge flavors alongside the sagebrush and damp earth accents. Round and downright delicious in its youth, the 2017 Januik ‘Klipsun Vineyard’ Merlot is shining brightly now and will provide drinking enjoyment for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2017 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Grenache- The 2017 ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ is a seriously good wine that shows the softer side of the varietal. Right away the 2017 Grenache shows red raspberry, guava and shades of red licorice aromas that mingle in the glass. The soft texture entices as the wine shows good verve and energy throughout. Ripe red fruits mingle with minerals and lighter wet stone tones on the palate. Enjoy this great bottling over the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2027- 92 

2017 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Sangiovese- Only a few acres are planted to Sangiovese in this esteemed, cool climate, vineyard. The 2017 Sangiovese yields some ripe red fruits that collide with minerals, smoky tones and a light dusting of cocoa powder on the palate. Lightly tannic and lithe, this is sensational wine that will cellar well for the next seven plus years. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2016 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an awesome new value release from this outstanding Woodinville outpost. Immediately you are drawn to the lovely leafy and sagebrush tones that artfully combine with the deep dark fruits on the nose. This is extremely well-rounded with mocha and tar flavors that collide with blackberry pie and lighter mineral tones. Quite simply, the wine over-delivers for the price. Enjoy this great bottling over the next decade or so. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2017 Januik ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows red bell pepper and sagebrush tones that mingle with mocha and shades of black tea that all take shape in the glass. The palate is plush delivering a soft, lovely texture. Mid-palate your are greeted to layers of dark fruits, creosote and milk chocolate shavings. This is simply delicious wine that shows great in its youth and will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2016 Januik ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows black licorice and tar tones that meld with the sagebrush and black cherry cordial accents on the expressive nose. This elegant wine has a seamless factor that delights. With great length and texture, the 2016 Januik ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2016 Novelty Hill ‘Cascadia’ Red Wine- The 2016 ‘Cascadia’ Red Wine is another gorgeous wine by the talented father/son team at Novelty hill. A rich combination of dark and blue fruits greet you aromatically. The texture really entices as black tea, black licorice and loads of chocolate connect on the palate. Generous and rich, this will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2017 Jauik ‘Reserve Red’ Red Wine- The ‘Reserve Red’ is Januik’s barrel selection red wine that has been made since 2004. The enticing nose shows gorgeous range from sagebrush to shades of blackberry compote, iron and dark chocolate covered espresso bean tones that all take shape on the nose. The palate is plush, showing a downright sexy mouthfeel. Soft and marvelously textured this has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2035- 93

2017 Januik ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Syrah- This opens with black olive and a deep core of smoked meats that all meld in the glass. Tightly wound with a deep core of dark fruits, try to give this a year or two in the bottle to be fully open and expressive. Drink 2022-2028- 92

2017 Novelty Hill ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah- This 2017 Novelty Hill ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah is another wine that overdelivers for the price. You are immediately drawn to the bright and intense aromatics of deep dark fruits, dark chocolate and lavender tones that take shape in the glass. The palate is plush as the wine shows off rich dark fruits that meld with roasted figs and lighter smoky tones on the palate. The is awesome stuff in its youth and will provide drinking enjoyment for the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2027- 92

Open Claim Vineyards

I randomly get sent a lot of wine and sometimes the marriage has a love story. In this case, I had never heard of Open Claim before trying their first vintage three years ago.. It is almost impossible to follow every single Pacific Northwest winery. One of the more exciting new wineries in Oregon, Open Claim Vineyards focuses on single expression Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Founded by Marnie and Brett Wall, Open Claim Vineyards create wines that are highly cellar-worthy with their brilliant textures and flavor and aromatic ranges imparted.

A man not needing any introduction, at the helm of Open Claim is one of the Pacific Northwest’s finest winemakers, Tony Rynders. Tony not only makes his wines under his Tendril label but consults for a plethora of great Oregon producers. I had the chance to speak to Tony a few weeks back about his Open Claim wines and he admitted that this is a project steeped in quality that will only get better. These wines, indeed, have an incredibly high ceiling.

The 2017 Open Claim ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 94) is dense and highly complex, showing an incredible soft mouthfeel and texture, with brilliant earthy tones. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.openclaimvineyards.com/ Here are the brilliant 2017 releases by Open Claim. 

2017 Open Claim Vineyards Chardonnay- The 2017 Chardonnay by Open Claim is another intoxicatingly good wine by this exciting new property in the Willamette Valley. Once on the nose the wine leads with nutmeg and sourdough bread that mingle with shades of baked apple and kumquat that all sing in harmony in the glass. Bright and intense, with a wonderful sense of minerality, the wine shows off lemon zest and vanilla cream that combine with the damp stone and earthy undertones. This is really thrilling stuff that has not only a seamless quality but excellent aromatic and flavor range. Enjoy this great new Chardonnay over the next decade as this will be sure to pick up earthy tertiary tones as it ages. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2017 Open Claim Vineyards Pinot Noir- The 2017 Open Claim Pinot Noir is another thrilling new bottling by the talented Tony Rynders. Sour kirsch and shades of orange rind combine with peat moss and black truffle tones that create an enthralling aromatic range. The palate is soft and generous, with a wonderfully plush mouthfeel. Black cherry compote, and guava combine with the damp earthy tones on the palate. Obviously high-toned, the white truffle and frost floor tones catch you off guard — in a good way. Bright, with good minerality, yet showing excellent weight, the 2017 Open Claim Vineyards Pinot Noir will provide drinking enjoyment over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2035- 94

Bibi Graetz

One of the famed producers of Tuscany that is known for consistency regardless of vintage, Bibi Graetz is an inspired story that has been a revelation since he began winemaking in 2000. In literally the storybook setting of a medieval castle, Castello di Vincigliata, Bibi Graetz creates each wine at this storied estate overlooking Florence. Bibi started with a small, 5-acre vineyard on this hillside in Fiesole. Since his first release in 2000 Bibi has become one of Tuscany’s cult winemakers without having any formal training in winemaking. His Testamatta and Colore bottling have made him an international success. Today Bibi source’s from old vines inTuscany as well as old vines from the Isola del Giglio. His wines are crafted from traditional varieties of Sangiovese, Colorino, and Canaiolo for the reds and the indigenous varieties of Ansonica and Vermentino for his whites wines.

I was totally blown away with the new wines that I tasted. The 2018 Bibi Graetz ‘Colore’ Bianco (WWB, 95) has a seamless texture and massive range, all leading to an incredible, one of a kind finish. Even better was the 2016 Bibi Graetz ‘Colore’ Red Wine (WWB, 96) which is a head-turning blend of 80% Sangiovese with equal parts Canaiolo and Colorino. Do not miss out on these sensational new wines that are perfect for any serious collector of Italian wines. Learn more about these gorgeous new wines at http://www.bibigraetz.com Here are the incredible new release wines by Bibi Graetz.

2018 Bibi Graetz ‘Testamatta’ Bianco- The 2018 Bibi Graetz ‘Testamatta’ Bianco is a stunning new white wine from this famed estate. This highly novel white wine is sourced from old vine (100%) Ansonica from Island of Giglio, 90 year-old vineyards which are set on granite and sand soil with a Goblet training system. The texture of the wine and bright salinity really shines here as ripe melon and pear flavors mingle with the wonderful sense of brightness and citrus blossom undertones. Fantastic right now, this will evolve well for at least a decade, picking up lovely tertiary notes as it ages. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2018 Bibi Graetz ‘Colore’ Bianco- Comprised of the Ansonica varietal (100% ), 900 bottles of this wine were produced. The grapes for this wine were sourced from the Pietrabona Vineyard on the Island of Giglio, a terraced vineyard situated on the southwest part of the island, facing the sea at an altitude between 200 and 500 feet. Showing off its deep, golden hue, the wine opens with an intense bouquet of honeydew melon, ripe pear, and shades of salted nectarine with hazelnut undertones that all mingle in the glass. The palate reveals a scintillating texture with intense melon, citrus zest and baked apple flavors. The finish lasts for more than a minute. Electrifying and novel, this magical wine will cellar well for decades. Drink 2019-2035- 95

2016 Bibi Graetz ‘Testamatta’ Sangiovese- Made from 100% old vine Sangiovese, the ‘Testamatta’ or ‘Crazy Head’ was sourced from five separate vineyards, with vines up to 80 years of age. The nose screams top old world Sangiovese with its sour cherry, cigar box and dried herb profile that mingles with shades of blood orange zest that all combine marvelously in the glass. The palate is impeccably balanced, with racy salinity and a wonderful high-toned vibrancy to the wine. Ripe red fruits mingle with the leather, damp earth and citrus zest tones to all entice on the mouth. Silky smooth, this finishes long with red fruits and minerals. While fantastic in its youth, this beautiful and elegant wine could benefit from a few more years in the bottle. Drink 2021-2038- 95

2016 Bibi Graetz ‘Colore’ Red Wine- The ‘Colore’ is a silky blend of 80% Sangiovese with equal parts Canaiolo and Colorino. This barrel selection wine is sourced from quite different districts (Lamole in Chianti Classico, Vincigliata near Florence and Siena province in the southern part of Tuscany). There is a marvelous purity of fruit aromatically with the intense red fruits that collide with suggestions of tar, leather, and dusty terroir that take their shape in the glass. The palate is exceedingly refined with velvety tannins and a downright sexy texture. Rich red and dark fruits dance with the mouth-watering acidity, minerals, cigar ash, and shades of white pepper infused cocoa powder on the palate. Exceedingly good in its youth, this beautiful wine will only gets better with time. Drink 2021-2040- 96

WWB 2020 Photo Highlights

We wanted to share a few of many photo highlights from what was a wonderful celebration of Washington wine last Saturday at the Columbia Tower Club (all photos by timdavisimages.com).

Cardinale

A winery with some great history, Cardinale dates back to 1983 when wine icon, Jess Jackson, proprietor of Kendall-Jackson Winery, wanted to produce a top notch red Meritage style wine. Cardinale is named after the original Cardinale vineyard site at Kendall-Jackson's Lakeport winery as the blend is normally predominantly comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon melded with small amounts of Merlot and, in certain years, Cabernet Franc. Grapes are harvested from hillside vineyards located in both Napa Valley and Sonoma County. The wine is aged in 100% new French oak Chateau barrels before bottling. 

A visit to Cardinale is a must for any serious collector of Napa wine. Cardinale is an absolutely stunning property located in the Napa floor, in Oakville not far from Robert Mondavi Winery and Opus One. At the helm is superstar winemaker, Chris Carpenter, is an MBA graduate that gained experience as a harvest enologist at Domaine Carneros Winery, a vineyard intern at Domaine Chandon California, and a research intern at Tenute Antinori, Santa Cristina Estate, in Montefiridolfi, Italy, before coming to Cardinale. A few years back I was fortunate enough to do a special vertical tasting of this wine which was such a memorable experience (http://www.washingtonwineblog.com/blog/2018/1/29/cardinale-vertical-tasting-mandarin-oriental-hotel-nyc). The new 2016 Cardinale Red Wine (WWB, 97) one of the best Cardinale wines that I can remember. This gorgeous, silky red blend is remarkable in its youth. The power and tension of the wine, with tremendous freshness, yet intense viscosity, really makes this wine sing. Learn more about this incredible wine at http://www.cardinale.com/ Here is my review of the stunning 2016 Cardinale Red Wine

2016 Cardinale Red Wine- The 2016 Cardinale Red Wine is a thrilling blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Merlot crafted by superstar winemaker, Chris Carpenter. The wine was aged in 100% French oak (93% new) for twenty months before bottling. The stunning aromatics almost catch you off guard. Deep aromatics of creme de cassis, graphite, creosote, and blackberry compote all come together seamlessly in the glass. The freshness and intensity of the wine is gorgeous, as the silky mouthfeel makes the wine effortlessly glide across the mid-palate. Deep dark fruits collide with chocolate covered espresso bean, tar and anise flavors all marvelously sing in unison on the palate. A truly stunning heavyhitter of a wine, the 2016 Cardinale Red Wine will be very long-lived. Drink 2022-2050- 97

Amavi Cellars

Today we present one the great wineries featured tomorrow for our 3rd Annual Washington Wine Blog Critic’s Choice of Washington. Amavi is a limited production Walla Walla winery located in the southern end of town. With sweeping views of the valley and mountains, Amavi is a modern facility that is a unique, picturesque setting to try their beautiful wines. Family run, Amavi sources from vineyards such as Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge and Les Collines to create their rich and ready to drink wines. Head winemaker Jean-François Pellet is a third-generation winemaker and grape grower. Pellet also makes wines for Amavi’s sister property, Pepper Bridge, in which he crafts a more Bordelaise style of wines.

The Amavi red wines come from the warm 2017 vintage that show wonderful poise and typicity. These wines have slightly less structure than the Pepper Bridge wines as they are made for early enjoyment. Pellet has crafted some gorgeous new Syrah and Cabernet bottlings. He also crafts a sensational Rose wine that is not yet released. The 2017 Amavi Cellars ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah (WWB, 92) is beautifully textured and shows lovely depth and complexity. I absolutely adored 2017 Amavi Cellars ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ Syrahn (WWB, 93) which has amazing earthy terroir with dense dark fruits from this very special property in the Walla Walla Valley. Learn more about Amavi at http://www.amavicellars.com

2018 Amavi Cellars Semillon- Aromas of cut grass, honeydew melon and shades of beeswax all entice on the nose. The palate has really good freshness with a silky texture and soft mouthfeel. This is enticing stuff now with its baking spice and ripe orchard fruit and melon flavors but I can imagine this cellaring well for at least another seven years. Drink 2019-2025- 92

2017 Amavi Cellars ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah-Plush and rich on the nose, the wine unveils ripe blackberry cobbler aromas that meld with shades of milk chocolate and black tea on this expressive nose. The palate has good freshness, weight and acidity, as light tannins line a core of deep dark fruits with chocolate undertones. Downright delicious to enjoy now, this will cellar well for at least another seven years. Drink 2019-2027- 92

2017 Amavi Cellars ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ Syrah- Over the past decade the ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ has become one of the great vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley for Syrah. The prototypical dried herb profile of the wine entices, as does the blackberry cobbler and shades of wet stone aromatics that mingle in the glass. The palate has a wonderful freshness and lifted texture with light tannins that mingle with the black fruits, dried thyme and citrus rind accents. This impresses with its mouth-watering acidity that brings you back to the glass for more. The long finish accentuates this beautiful bottling by superstar winemaker Jean-Francois Pellet. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2017 Amavi Cellars ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Amavi Cellars ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon is another impressive bottling from this outstanding Walla Walla producer. On the nose this takes on ripe blackberry jam with shades of mocha, black lire and spicy undertones that all march on command in the glass. The bright sense of minerality is one of Pellet’s hallmarks here, as the gobs of acidity combines with the black fruits to give off a Bordelaise effect. Balanced and highly poised in its youth, be sure to give this a one hour decant if enjoying in its nascent phase. Drink 2019-2029- 92

Mark Ryan

One of the storied wineries in Woodinville, Mark Ryan continues to deliver an impressive lineup of high-quality red and white wines. Founded in 1999 by Mark Ryan McNeilly, Mark has a great story that he was mostly self-taught as a winemaker. He finally settled on a Woodiville warehouse location in 2003 and has continued producing wonderful wines since that time. Mark Ryan is a gorgeous tasting room, near Purple restaurant, in the heart of Woodinville Wine Country. It one of the more boisterous and fun place to try wine in the area. If you have never had the chance to visit the tasting room on the weekend, it is a must visit.

For many years now Mark Ryan has received international acclaim for his red wines in particular.  I adored his 2017 Mark Ryan ‘Water Witch’ Red Wine (WWB, 92) which has wonderful density and good freshness. Even better was the 2017 Mark Ryan ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 93) which is an amazing textural experience, showing gobs of dark fruits with lovely earthy undertones. Learn more about these great wines at http://www.markryanwinery.com Here are the outstanding recent red wine releases by Mark Ryan.

2016 Mark Ryan ‘Water Witch’ Red Wine- The ‘Water Witch’ is a blend of largely Cabernet Sauvignon (64%) with smaller portions Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a touch of Petit Verdot. Inky in the glass, this shows rich dark fruits and chocolate enveloped by toasty oak that fill the nose. The palate shows good richness and terroir with chocolate covered dark cherry, mocha and sagebrush flavors that all mingle beautifully. A long-ager, this is best enjoyed over the next fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2017 Mark Ryan ‘Water Witch’ Red Wine- A blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (66%) with smaller portions Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the ‘Water Witch’ has deep and brooding aromatics of black tea, exotic spices, blackberry compote and shades of milk chocolate the all mingle in the glass. The freshness and mid-palate viscosity is really good. Deep dark fruits mingle with the sagebrush and chocolate tones. Every bit outstanding in its youth, the 2017 ‘Water Witch’ will have at least another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2016 Mark Ryan ‘Lonely Heart ‘Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Lonely Heart’ was sourced from the Red Mountain AVA and is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Once in the glass the wine picks up rich dark currant, dark cherry cordial and Turkish coffee aromas. The palate is lithe, showing a soft texture and good intensity. Dark fruits mingle with chocolate and coffee tones on the palate. This has a long life ahead of it. If enjoying in its youth, give this at least a one hour decant. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2016 Mark Ryan ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Mocha and crushed mint with sagebrush and blackberry cobbler all combine on the nose in this beautiful Columbia Valley AVA Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate shows a wonderful elegance and purity of fruit. Red and dark fruits connect with chocolate and coffee flavors alongside earthy undertones. Downright delicious now, the combination of balance and weight suggests this will cellar well for the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2017 Mark Ryan ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a sinfully good new wine by Mark Ryan. Aromatically intense, the wine has sagebrush, mocha and tar tones that are woven together with deep dark fruits and shades of pipe tobacco that all sing in unison in the glass. The weight and balance of the wine is downright awesome, as the pillowy, soft texture entices. While this provides plenty of appeal in its youth, the 2017 ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon will have a long life ahead of it. Be sure to give this at least a one hour decant if enjoying in its nascent phase. Drink 2020-2033- 93

de Lancellotti

A small Oregon winery founded by Paul and Kendall de Lancellotti, their story begins with the planting of a family vineyard in 1998. Paul and Kendall were both early partners of Bergstrom Wines in 1999, followed by the the planting of the de Lancellotti vineyard in 2001 which is a 16 acre Chehalem Mountain parcel focusing on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Flash forward several years, de Lancellotti Family Vineyards was founded in 2005 focusing on producing high quality Pinot Noir that showcases specific terroir and vineyards. 

The new releases by de Lancellotti were really good across the board. Their new 2017 ‘Le Moe Figlie’ Chardonnay (WWB, 91) has great astringency and freshness from this great vintage for Chardonnay. I loved the 2017 de Lancellotti ‘Ornelia’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 92) which combines lovely volcanic terroir with great acidity and earthy tones. Learn more about this exciting estate at http://www.delancellottifamilyvineyards.com/ Here are the great new wines by de Lancellotti.

2016 De Lancellotti ‘Le Mie Figlie’ Chardonnay- The 2016 de Lancellotti ‘Le Mie Figlie’ Chardonnay shows lovely tertiary tones aromatically ranging from cinnamon infused challah bread to wet stone that all mingle in the glass. The balance and freshness of the wine is excellent, as medium-bodied orchard fruits play with nutmeg and sourdough bread flavors. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2017 De Lancellotti ‘Le Mie Figlie’ Chardonnay- Just as good as the ’16 edition, the 2017 de Lancellotti ‘Le Mie Figlie’ Chardonnay has medium-bodied Pink lady apple, nutmeg and French bread flavors. The brightness and soft texture of the wine really is excellent as this would be a wonderful pairing for shellfish. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2017 De Lancellotti ‘Arlyn Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Arlyn Vineyard’ is located high atop the Chehalem Mountains AVA. The bright red fruit and citrus rind aromas entice. The freshness and weight of the wine is outstanding, as is the lovely peat moss and wild mushroom undertones. This is downright delicious wine that will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2017 De Lancellotti ‘Famiglia’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Famiglia’ Pinot Noir shows lighter to medium-bodied cran-cherry and guava tones with hints of cinnamon and forest floor. With bright acidity, this will be best enjoyed over the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2017 De Lancellotti ‘Onelia’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Dundee Hills AVA, the wine has a lovely dark fruit aromatic profile with a dusting of volcanic earth and damp earth terroir that all take shape in the glass. The palate has a silky texture that entices. Black tea, blackberry compote and shades of peat moss and wild mushroom all combine brilliantly. While remarkable in its youth, the ‘Onelia’ will have at least another decade in the cellar. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2017 De Lancellotti ‘Le Corsia’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Chehalem Mountains AVA, the ‘‘La Corsia’ opens with a lovely dusty volcanic terroir, woven together with an amalgamation of red and dark fruits aromatically. The soft texture entices, as the wine unveils a deep core of red fruits with damp earth and cigar box undertones. Every bit delicious now, the ‘La Corsia’ will have at decade of life or more left. Drink 2020-2033- 92

MTR Productions

We have a very special feature for you today out of Walla Walla. Matt Reynvaan is a man needing no introduction. He will be graciously pouring his wines this Saturday at Washington Wine Blog Critic’s Choice of Washington 2020 and he has crafted a can’t miss new release. We now have the third edition of MTR Productions which was just released by Matt and Lauren Reynvaan. The wine is sourced from their ‘In The Rocks Vineyard’ in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA and underwent serious barrel and bottle aging prior to release. 

The 2014 ‘Memory Found’ is a head-turning, 100% Syrah wine from the warm 2014 vintage. They have made less than 150 cases of this glorious wine. The Syrah was aged in French oak and 600L oak puncheons and then saw 36 months of bottle age. This is a one of a kind wine that is not to be missed. The wine shows a stunning texture and soft mouthfeel. Dazzling minerality really impresses here despite the obvious heat of the vintage. The wine becomes even more complex following extended decanting. Uncork this wine, let it sit for an hour and then enjoy over several hours. Learn more about this beautiful wine at http://www.mtr-productions.com Here is my review of the 2014 MTR Productions 'Memory Found' Syrah. 

2014 MTR Productions ‘Memory Found’ Syrah- The ‘Memory Found’ is a limited production Syrah bottling by superstar winemaker Matt Reynvaan sourced from the ‘In The Rocks Vineyard’ in The Rocks District AVA. Needing a one hour decant to fully evolve, the wine shows downright sexy aromas of black tea, Hoisin sauce and Umami, woven together with lighter wet stone and citrus rind accents that march in place in the glass. The weight, texture and freshness of the wine makes this a show-stopper. Wild mushroom, peat moss, green olive tapenade, wild blackberry cordial and seaweed wrapped blood orange rind all marvelously come together on the palate. Ironically, the earthy tones of the wine give this a Burgundian edge. Tried over several hours in a Riedel Syrah glass vs. a Riedel Burgundy glass, I prefer the aromatic range actually in the Burgundy glass. Drink 2021-2033- 95