Interview with Greg Brewer, Co-founder and Winemaker of Brewer-Clifton

One of the iconic producers of California Pinot Noir, Greg Brewer is the co-founder and winemaker at Brewer-Clifton. Greg started his career as a French instructor at UC Santa Barbara before being trained in wine production at Santa Barbara Winery starting in 1991. He created his eponymous label, Brewer-Clifton with original partner Steve Clifton in 1996 and also Melville where he worked as winemaker from its inception in 1997 through the end of 2015. His wines are gorgeous, deftly combining terroir with bight acidity and hedonistic aromatics. 

I have long admired these wines since I first began tasting in Santa Barbara back in 2003. I won’t forget my first visit to Brewer-Clifton and Melville which were sleepy, micro-production wineries that flew under the radar for far too long. The new wines by Brewer-Clifton were dazzling across the board and I recently had the chance to sit down with Greg and chat wine. Articulate and genuine, Greg talked about his background in wine as well as some inspirational people who have touched his nearly 30 year winemaking journey. I think you will very much enjoy hearing his story in wine. Here is my exclusive Interview with Greg Brewer, Winemaker and Co-founder of Brewer-Clifton.  

WWB: What initially drew you to winemaking?

GB: Back in 1991 I was an instructor at UC Santa Barbara and I was enjoying that, I loved working in education. At 21 I was working on a masters degree that I never finished, and I realized my heart wasn’t in it. The research component to the gig wasn’t as enticing and at the same tine by coincidence I had seen an ad for a job working at a tasting room in Santa Barbara and I applied. Although didn’t get the job the first time from the moment I walked in the door to the winery I realized that was what I wanted to do. I was enchanted by the winery with the barrels, the music and people. A few weeks later I applied for another job at the winery and began working. For about a year I was still teaching at UC Santa Barbara and working in the tasting room. Then I had a chance to work in winery production in a small level at by the end of 1992 I was able to begin working as assistant winemaker. The winemaker was amazing and he has been working at the winery for 30 years. He gave ma a shot even though I didn’t have the knowledge or experience but it was a small team there at Santa Barbara Winery, the oldest one in the county. He knew that I worked hard and that I was really into it. I owe him the world. He taught me 95% of what I do as there was a huge risk taking and calm demeanor that he has maintained — a duality is not that common. I learned a lot from that and maintaining composure but also being willing to take huge risks in the winemaking process. 

WWB: What are some of your favorite vintages that you have worked with in Santa Barbara County? What have been some of the most challenging vintages for you?

GB: Living in the Santa Barbara area we have been blessed that we have remarkable consistency with regards to weather. There are a few things that are favorable with the vintages I have worked with. The region has this amazing climate which in 29 years of doing this I have never bee forced to pick because of adverse weather in the fall. That in itself is phenomenal and I have that as a huge advantage. Another advantage I only work in this one small area. For the better part of three decades I have worked on a five mile stretch of one road. I am not saying that I know it all but you gain intimacy with a place like that. It gives you the opportunity to be very close to the environment and be vulnerable with the environment. It is like being with a partner. It has been great and I have been blessed with upwards of 25 year old relationships in the area which gives you the opportunity to stick your neck out and drop your shoulders and raise these wines in a minimal fashion. 

WWB: Your new 2016 Brewer-Clifton ‘Machado’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) is a thrilling new wine with gobs of salty terroir and incredible range. Can you talk about crafting this special wine. How are you able to impart this level of range and terroir?

GB: Machado is a vineyard that we planted in 2008. Back even in 2016 a good portion of the vineyard would make its way into the Santa Rita Hills bottling and it always has. When we planted there is a little knoll on the property that is really easy to identify from our website. It is eight acres of the vineyard that is flat and then roughly five acres at the vineyard is defined by a little knoll. When we planted that we wanted to make the wine based on the section of the site and we knew that knoll was going to be relevant. We planted clone 37 and 459 there. 2010 was our first Machado designate bottling. The Pinot Noir is 100% whole cluster fermented and a blend of both clones. We knew that the wine would offer very primary pure fruit and very dense lush curvy fruit and the whole cluster frames that curvature. The stems give the spice and also tannin and then the wine is fermented for a long time and then aged for a year and a half. There is a lot of pure intent in the winemaking process. The Machado family is really kind and they came to the area from Portugal in 1917. They own about 1200 acres in the area and because we all know each other they were open to leasing 15 acres of their property to us on a long term land lease. It is their land but we are able to borrow it. It is a beautiful scenario with you having the ability to put another person’s family legacy on the label and there is a lot of responsibility but I love that too. They are really into the wine and winemaking process and are prideful of the wine.

WWB: What are some of the best wines that you have ever tasted?

GB: A lot of these wines come to mind. But I think for me just like anything there are a handful of wines that I have had in my formative years that really turned my life upside down and set me on the path where I have gone. The older you get the more you get numb to things unfortunately. But as a kid it is like tasting ice cream for the first time. One formative wine would be a wine from Calera, their 1987 ‘Jensen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir which I tried in 1993. I would also say that the 1987 ‘Rochioli Vineyard’ from Williams-Selyem was one of the most influential wines that I had. Burt Williams who recently sadly passed away lived in our area part time and spent a lot of time at our winery. I learned a lot from him. Learning about minimal handling and stem inclusion, stewarding things in a quiet way and allowing things to be as they are. The wines blew me away but the people behind them even more so. These have been critical people in my winemaking career. In terms of old world wines that have influenced me, I have been blessed to try sone crazy Burgundy over the years. One of the monumental wines I tried was the 1990 Domaine Leroy ‘Savigny Les Beaune – Les Narbantons.’ Her wines are amazing and at the time back in 1993 I knew about the winemaker but had never tried her wines. At the time the wine wasn’t too expensive not like it is now. It was either 1993 or 1994 and I wanted to share the wine with others at the winery for my birthday. I had brought the wine to the winery a week before and we opened it and I had never had any wine like it. We all had it and talked about it and then there was about an inch or two eft in the bottle and Bruce my boss said that I should cork it and try it tomorrow. I did and the next day it was something completely different. That lesson I remember vividly, having that wine the first time and them the day later. So those three wines are really intense and all rely on stem inclusion which is no surprise. Extreme in their practice and approach to winemaking but yet are also very simple in the approach. 

Decanted Podcast #33 with Sean P. Sullivan and Dr. Owen Bargreen

Friends, check out the latest Decanted Podcast featuring yours truly and Sean P. Sullivan of Wine Enthusiast. Link here:  https://decantedpodcast.com/episode-33-critics-choice-sean-p-sullivan-and-dr-owen-bargreen/

Walla Walla Wine in Seattle

We wanted to share a few of many highlights from what was an epic tasting of Walla Walla wine yesterday in downtown Seattle.

Doubleback

Doubleback

One of the great Washington wineries for Cabernet Sauvignon, Doubleback was founded by NFL legend Drew Bledsoe. Originally from Walla Walla, Drew attended high school there and then had a great career at Washington State University before spending many years with the New England Patriots. For many years Drew had wanted to own his own winery following his illustrious career in football. Going back to Walla Walla was the perfect choice for him. Drew returned to Walla Walla in 2007 to plant his estate vineyard, McQueen, on the southern end of the Walla Walla Valley AVA. Doubleback was born in 2008 which would focus on estate fruit to create world class Cabernet Sauvignon from Walla Walla. Drew knew he needed a top class winemaker and connected with childhood friend and superstar winemaker, Chris Figgins, of Leonetti Cellar, who served as consulting winemaker until Josh McDaniels assumed the role in 2015. Here is my interview with Josh: (http://www.washingtonwineblog.com/blog/2016/10/13/interview-with-josh-mcdaniels-head-winemaker-of-doubleback-and-sweet-valley-wines). Doubleback has a world class facility in Walla Walla just outside of town. Their rooftop has sweeping views of the valley and is the perfect spot to sip their outstanding wines and feel like you’re a world away from home.

Josh has been winemaking for more than ten years and while he is not new to making great wine, he has an incredibly high ceiling in terms of the wines that he seeks out to make. It is no surprise that Chris Figgins recognized his abilities many years ago. I was blown away with the new 2017 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) which is a precise and dense wine that has an exceedingly long life ahead of it. One of the great Cabernet Sauvignon wines that I have had from Washington all year is the 2017 Doubleback ‘Estate Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 97) which is a massive, monster of a wine that will need some time to fully evolve —yet it is sinfully good in its youth after extended air. Learn more about this outstanding winery at http://www.doubleback.com/

2017 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon is a masterful effort by superstar winemaker Josh McDaniels. Needing a one hour decant to fully be  aroused, once awoken there are deep layers of dark fruits woven together with black licorice, cigar box and shades of Turkish coffee and asphalt that all sing in unison in the glass. The balance and purity of fruit mid-palate is simply gorgeous. Long and generous, with moderate tannins and exceptional length, the combination of weight and acidity really impresses. While obviously a big wine, this has a magical sense of elegance and balance. This is thrilling stuff in its youth, as the 2017 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon will provide drinking enjoyment for decades to come. Drink 2020-2040- 95

2017 Doubleback ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Doubleback ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a deep, hedonistic monster of a wine. Massive, brooding dark fruits invade the nose with black currants, Black Forest Cake and creosote that all take shape in the glass. The sense of balance mid-palate is gorgeous. Even better is the seamless quality of the wine that effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. While obviously intense, the lifted, pillowy effect induced on the palate is seriously good. Dark chocolate covered espresso bean, tar, creme de cassis and suggestions of blackberry compote with light smoky and herbal undertones complete this scintillating Cabernet Sauvignon. This finishes extremely long. If enjoying in its youth, be sure to give this massive wine at least a two hour decant. Try to let this sit at least another year. Drink 2021-2045- 97

Swiftwater Cellars

If you have not tasted Swiftwater Cellars wines, you are in for a treat. This under the radar winery is based at the Suncadia Resort roughly 20 miles east of Snoqualmie Pass. It is a breeze to get there especially in the summer months. I had a chance to visit Andrew Wisniewski and his Swiftwater Cellars wines last year and really enjoyed tasting his new efforts from the barrel (and stainless tanks). A younger guy, Andrew brings great energy to this program and has amassed more than a decade of winemaking experience prior to joining Swiftwater Cellars in 2014. He has worked in New Zealand, Australia and more recently Oregon, where he served as Cellar Master for the Stoller Family Estate.

I really enjoyed his new lineup of wines which are to be released this spring. Look to the 2018 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Proprietary White’ White Wine (WWB, 91) which has textural opulence and a silky mouthfeel. I loved the 2018 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Oregon’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 91) which is an awesome value out of Oregon and shows really good range and tension. Even better was the highly impressive 2017 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Reserve’ Syrah (WWB, 93) which has brilliantly dialed in smoky and savory tones with a plush texture. Learn more about this exciting winery at https://www.swiftwatercellars.com Here are the great new wines by Swiftwater Cellars. 

2018 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2018 ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc was aged in 35% new French puncheons and saw 8 months sur lie aging before bottling. Light nutty aromas meld with shades of Bosc pear and nutmeg infused starfruit on this expressive nose. The palate surprises you with wonderful viscosity and texture, as this bright, yet well-weighted wine will cellar well over the next five to seven years. This is a seriously good style of Washington Sauvignon Blanc. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2018 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Proprietary White’ White Wine- The 2018 ‘Proprietary White’ is a Bordeaux style white wine comprised of 58% Sauvignon Blanc and the remainder Semillon all sourced from the Klipsun Vineyard on Red Mountain. The soft texture combines with a bright sense of minerality, as the wine unveils lemon zest with kumquat and Gravenstein apple flavors. Considering the site, this has good freshness and verve, with a long finish. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2018 Swiftwater Cellars Viognier- The 2018 Swiftwater Cellars Viognier has 12% Marsanne blended in. Aromas of ripe apricot, honeysuckle and green papaya give this an exotic aromatic presentation. The freshness and mid-palate weight is seriously good as the silky texture entices. Enjoy this over the next seven years. Drink 2020-2026- 91

2018 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Boushey Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from this esteemed, cool-climate vineyard in the Yakima Valley, the wine takes on bright pear with lemon cream aromatics that take their shape in the glass. The palate is round and generous with a soft texture. Bright tropical fruits mingle with shades of vanilla cream on the palate. The long, mineral and cream-driven finish lingers long on the palate. This is truly fantastic stuff by the talented Andrew Wisniewski. Drink 2020-2028- 92

2017 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Oregon’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Matteri, Saffron Fields and Guadalupe Vineyards, the ‘Oregon’ Pinot Noir opens with blood orange zest alongside bright red fruits and damp earth undertones that mingle together in the glass. The palate is medium to full-bodied, delivering a silky texture and copious red fruits that dance with minerals and citrus rind tones. This is seriously good stuff that will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 91

2017 Swiftwater Cellars ‘No. 9’ Pinot Noir- The ‘No. 9’ Pinot Noir was stored in French oak (15%) for fourteen months before bottling. This comes off on the leaner side with pomegranate seed and shades of kumquat zest on the palate alongside minerals. Drink 2020-2025- 89

2016 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Thistle Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Thistle Vineyard’ is located in the Dundee Hills AVA as the wine was stored in French oak (25% new) before bottling. Intense black fruits with damp earth tones and hints of cola fill the nose. The palate is juicy, showing bright acidity alongside deep dark fruit flavors. Round and generous, this is seriously good Pinot Noir that will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2016 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Saffron Fields Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Saffron Fields Vineyard’ Pinot Noir underwent 100% whole cluster fermentation and was aged in a small amount of new French oak (15%) before bottling. Bright red fruits with light tannins and gobs of acidity line the palate. The mouthfeel and texture of the wine really entices, as does the long finish that lingers on the tongue. A delight to savor now, the 2016 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Saffron Fields Vineyard’ Pinot Noir will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2017 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah- The 2017 ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah by Swiftwater Cellars shows milk chocolate tones that collect momentum with black tea and blackberry cobbler on the nose. Forward and showing good freshness, the wine delivers straightforward black fruit flavor with lighter herbal tones on the palate. Enjoy this in its youth. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2017 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Boushey Vineyard’ Syrah- Sourced from this famed Yakima Valley Vineyard, the ‘Boushey Vineyard’ Syrah was aged for eighteen months in 100% neutral puncheons prior to bottling. Smoky and savory tones mingle with black tea and boysenberry preserves on this expressive nose. The palate reveals a silky mouthfeel, with bright red and black fruits that collide with the damp earth and milk chocolate tones on the palate. Every bit delicious in its youth, the 2017 ‘Boushey Vineyard’ Syrah will have another decade or more in the cellar. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2017 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Ciel du Cheval Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2017 ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Syrah was aged for 18 months in 25% new French puncheons prior to bottling. Forward and dense, the silky mouthfeel entices. Blackberry compote, leather and dried herbs collide with minerals and dark chocolate cake on the palate. Dense and generous, this great effort will cellar well for ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2017 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Reserve’ Syrah- The 2017 ‘Reserve’ Syrah is a gorgeous new wine by the talented Andrew Wisniewski. Sourced almost entirely from the Boushey Vineyard, the ‘Reserve’ shows lovely damp earth tones that connect with bacon fat, roasted figs and shades of milk chocolate on this exotic bouquet. The freshness, tension and soft mouthfeel is gorgeous. Black tea, exotic spices, bacon fat and shades of black olive tapenade flavors give this a savory edge, and are deftly woven together with the dense core dark fruits. Appealing now for its verve, the 2017 ‘Reserve’ Syrah will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2033- 93

Interview with Sadie Drury, General Manager, North Slope Management

Wine interviews can come in the most serendipitous of circumstances. I was emailing with Sadie Drury about an event that she helps put on at Seven Hills Vineyard and I realized that it had been far too long since I had interviewed a well-known vineyard manager. Sadie has a degree from the Walla Walla Community College program in Enology and Viticulture and interned at the famed Red Mountain Ciel du Cheval Vineyard before becoming Assistant Vineyard Manager there. She manages eight vineyards including the Seven Hills Vineyard. I think you will very much enjoy hearing her story in wine. Here is my interview with Sadie Drury, General Manager of North Slope Management.

WWB: How did you decide to pursue a career in viticulture?

SD: I have always enjoyed working outdoors and in agriculture. I had been training horses but after a few dead ends I knew it was time to find something else. A date with a winemaker of all things led me to decide to grow grapes.  I liked wine and I wanted to be a farmer so I thought it would be a good fit. After my first viticulture class at WWCC I knew I had found my calling.  

WWB: What were some of your first major moments in wine education and who have been some of your biggest mentors?

SD: I had the opportunity to learn from Stan Clarke before he passed away. He really took a chance on me by letting me in the Enology and Viticulture program at WWCC, and I knew I didn’t want to let him down. My first viticulture internship was at Ciel du Cheval in 2008, and so my bosses were Ryan Johnson and Jim Holmes. I was always in awe of how much they knew about vineyards and how well they could balance the demands of growing grapes for so many important customers. Additionally, on my first day of work Ryan sent me over to meet the neighbor, Dick Boushey, who was planting a vineyard. He and I immediately hit it off. My introduction to such important people in the industry were huge moments in establishing my career. All four men have taught me a lot along the way and have been amazing mentors to me.

WWB: You currently manage eight different vineyards. What are some of the challenges with this huge task? 

SD: The biggest challenge to managing eight properties is employing enough people to farm them and then prioritizing the jobs that need to get done on each property with nothing slipping between the cracks. My seven years managing vineyards at SeVein have taught me which properties I need to tackle first, and which blocks and varieties are more forgiving and I can push out to last. During the growing season I try to get into each vineyard each day so nothing is missed. Overall, communication with the winemakers and landowners is key to getting the jobs done in a logical order and keeping everyone happy. I have an amazing team of employees who understand this challenge and help me in every way possible.

WWB: Can you talk about some of the challenges with managing vineyards in very hot vintages like 2015 and 2016?

SD: I don’t think anyone knows the best way to manage vineyards on really hot vintages yet, which is why I took a recent trip to South Australia to learn what they are doing. The challenge on hot vintages is really being flexible, proactive, and believing that the decisions you are making in the moment are the best decisions. When there’s abnormal heat in the forecast, sometimes I have to throw out what’s “normal.” Irrigation and canopy management are the two most important things we will do during the growing season and we really only have one shot to get it right. If I have the crew pull too many leaves or if I underwater a little too much during a heat wave, I just potentially ruined the wine.

WWB: When you are not enjoying Washington wines, what are some of your favorite wines of the world? What is your favorite wine that you have had from one of the vineyards that you manage?

 SD: I love Oregon Pinot Noir and New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, probably because I can’t get anything similar from Washington.

As for the wines that I grow, L’Ecole’s Estate Ferguson Vineyard is my favorite vintage after vintage. It’s incredibly terroir-driven and solidly made. It’s a challenging site to farm because of the thin soils and windy location, so I really taste all the hard work come together in the bottle.

Portland Five Star Hotel Review: The Nines vs. Sentinel

Portland 5 Star Hotel Review: The Nines vs. Sentinel 

Last month I stayed at two Five Star Hotels in Portland, The Nines and Sentinel Hotel, both in downtown Portland. I’ve chosen to outline both hotels and finally choose a clear winner out of this epic battle.

The Nines:

Description: The Nines opened their doors in 2008, and has 331 rooms and 13 suites making it one of Portland’s largest hotels. It’s restaurant, Urban Farmer, is located on the 8th floor while it’s chic rooftop bar and Lounge, Departure, is on the top floor.

Location: The Nines is located in the heart of downtown Portland, walking distance to a variety of great bars and restaurants.

Room quality: There are a range of rooms at The Nines, but the best rooms are corner rooms that have a large living space and expansive bathrooms. Modern and chic, these are some of the best looking rooms you will find in the Pacific Northwest, with on par design with The Four Seasons and The Thompson in Seattle. The hip, light blue theme really works across the lobby and guest rooms, with glitzy chandeliers that make you feel like you’re staying at The Cosmopolitan in Las Vegas.

Beds are ridiculously comfy and large. I preferred the bed size and quality at The Nines to the Sentinel. I particularly enjoyed the bed quality and silky soft sheets that make you sink in and forget about the world.

The rooms at The Nines are also significantly quieter than at The Sentinel. If you can select a corner room, I have found them to be quieter than those in the middle of hallways at this hotel.

The room we had was very clean and had comfortable and good looking seating throughout. We spent several hours relaxing on the sofa reading.

The higher floors have terrific views of the surrounding area. Our room had a view of the mountains and a tiny view of the river.

Price: Obviously there is a large range depending on season and availability. My room including tax was $220.00 but I’ve found pricing at The Nines to be considerably more in summer months when more tourists are in town. If you stay during the winter you will get considerably better value for your dollar.

Amenities: The lobby area is open and expansive. Check in is on the 8th floor and their restaurant, Urban Farmer, is also located right near the lobby.

The gym is located on the 7th floor and is expansive and modern with plenty of equipment for your every workout need. The space is modern and able to accommodate considerably more people than the gym at The Sentinel.

Urban Farmer is a top-notch hotel restaurant at The Nines.

Restaurant/bar quality: Urban Farmer is a fantastic spot with reasonable prices as I have enjoyed dining at this restaurant since The Nines opened their door. Their crab omelette is truly sensational for breakfast and they also make an excellent burger. Wine prices are relatively high but they have a good range of wines from the Pacific Northwest.

Service: Service was precise and attentive. We asked for an extra razor which was quickly and politely delivered to us.

Extras: Short term parking under 90 minutes is very expensive at $19.00, as is their ridiculously high, New York style overnight parking fee of $49.00, and $54.00 for ‘oversized vehicles.’

That said, there are some area parking garages that are much cheaper. We paid $30.00 at an area garage but I have paid as little as $16.00 for overnight parking at neighboring garages.

The Nines has a 12th floor Club Room for their Marriott Rewards members. I paid an extra fee to use this room and I was very impressed by the food quality as well as the drinks available and service in the Club Room. While they don’t have expensive wines, the wine quality is more than palatable and it is free. The coffee and espresso machine was also high quality. This is the second time I’ve used this expansive room and it won’t be the last time.

Now to the really fun part. The rooftop at The Nines is spectacular, truly one of the great rooftop settings not only in Portland but the entire Pacific Northwest. While the drink quality and drink pricing isn’t particularly good, you are paying for the real estate here.

We also used the nearby ice machine right outside our room to chill out wine.

Sentinel Hotel:

Description: The Sentinel Hotel is crafted out of two historic buildings. It’s east building was erected in 1909 and was a former hotel while the west building was completed in 1923 as a former Elks Temple. The two buildings were joined in 1992, and together they became an expanded Governor Hotel. Their hotel restaurant, Jake’s Grill, was opened in 1994. The Governor Hotel was sold to Provenance Hotels in 2012 and renovated, and in 2014 it was renamed the Sentinel Hotel.

Location: Located just outside of the downtown corridor, the Sentinel is a great location on 11th Avenue near the Pearl District.

Room quality: We had reserved a standard room at the Sentinel. The room didn’t have a view but the size of the room was smaller than a standard room at The Nines. I think they should have larger standard rooms considering the star rating. While the website states that the room is 230 square feet, it feels like more like 150 because the room is small and it has a larger bathroom. We enjoyed the expansive bathroom while we were getting ready although the decor could use a bit of freshening up. WiFi worked well and the the room had a radio, albeit modern looking but was inaccessible to play our music. I asked downstairs for an auxiliary cord and I was disappointed that the hotel did not carry them. How was I supposed to play my music in the room with no Bluetooth component or auxiliary cord? This seemed quite substandard for a 5 star hotel in 2019. I also asked if they had any paid upgrades for a larger room and unfortunately the front desk mentioned that was not an option.

The tub and shower curtain seemed a bit cheap with a flimsy, worn shower curtain. I also noticed a few hairs that weren’t mine on the shower tiles. The room was very clean other than that but I think that is just the kind of mistake that a 5 star hotel shouldn’t make.

Here we have the bathroom and bedroom area for our room at Sentinel.

Rooms were also a bit noisy for a 5 star hotel. In the morning we could hear people walking upstairs and outside our room. This could be a disadvantage of staying at a historic hotel, but they should really improve their sound proofing.

The bed was large and comfortable, although I preferred quality of the bed in the Nines. The standard room only had a queen sized bed while beds at the Nines are king sized. Being 6’5’’ (1.95 meters), the size of the bed does matter. I think they could improve the bed quality given their star rating.

The room bar had appropriate wine stemware and the room had a small closet for clothes. Seating was comfortable albeit a step down from rooms at The Nines. We did not have adequate room for our large suitcases and the room became a bit suffocating as we got dressed and ready for dinner with friends.

Because this is a historic hotel, the elevators are quite old-fashioned. They are also very slow as there was only one elevator for our floor and the other neighboring floors. It was easy enough for me to walk downstairs to the lobby but this experience could be frustrating for elderly or disabled guests who don’t have that option. The ceilings are also very low which makes a tall person like me feel a bit boxed in. The corridor leading to the guest room elevators is historic and urbane looking but has such low ceilings that I was worried that I would hit my head. I preferred the high ceilings of my room at The Nines.

Price: While I paid $150.00 for the room, there was also a ‘resort fee’ of $27.67 added onto the rate. Obviously price varies considerably, depending on the season but this seemed like a pretty empty hotel which may be partly why the rate was relatively low for a 5 star rating.

Amenities: I used the hotel gym twice during my stay and it is a great space that ironically was previously used as a bank vault in the 1920s. The gym has a good variety of free weights and even has a Peloton machine. The second time I used the gym they were out of towels but I found some in an armoire. The space itself is very unique and won’t appeal to those looking for a modern looking gym.

The lobby area is good looking and has some great seating. We were welcomed right away when we arrived and there is an infused water station near the front desk. I would expect more amenities for the resort fee on top of the hotel price.

Restaurant/ bar quality: We had two meals at Jake’s, the hotel restaurant, and I found the food to be of very good quality. Both salads we ordered had homemade dressing. The crab louie salad was really tasty, with succulent Dungeness crab and the homemade thousand island dressing.

We visited the hotel bar for a cocktail and both were very good and also well-priced considering the star rating of the hotel. The Old Fashioned was particularly well-balanced with light maple flavors wonderfully complementing the citrus tones.

Service: The front desk staff were very nice although they did not provide a few things that we wanted. Towels were quickly delivered to us. We ordered room service from the hotel restaurant which also was quickly delivered to us. I still was surprised why I was not able to upgrade my room — the hotel seemed pretty empty.

Extras: Parking is 45 dollars but we parked in a neighboring garage for $21.00. Their ‘resort fee’ of $27.67 is ‘for use of the Wi-Fi, fitness and business centers, in-room safe, Lather bath products, robes, cribs and rollaway beds.’ We can get all of these at a Super 8 or Holiday Inn. This is all downright absurd, although we did enjoy having an ice machine near our room. A 5 star hotel shouldn’t charge for these many of things that they include in the resort feel, and they offer no pool, hot tub, sauna or a killer rooftop which The Nines offers.

The downstairs lobby offers coffee for their patrons each morning, which is a nice perk, but when I went downstairs they were actually out of coffee. I came downstairs another time and there was a fresh pot.

Having the Domaine Serene Wine Lounge in the hotel lobby is certainly a nice extra perk. I can’t think of another hotel on the west coast that has this first class tasting experience just downstairs for hotel guests. While the lounge is technically not part of the hotel, it really is a nice bonus for hotel guests.

Overall feel: When I am staying at The Nines, I feel like I am at a true 5 star hotel, with its glamorous rooms, modern design and killer rooftop deck. I do enjoy the feeling of stepping into the rustic and chic Sentinel hotel, but for the before mentioned points, the Sentinel is really more of a 4 star hotel than a 5 star hotel and they should do some updating starting with having larger beds and better sound-proofing. There are some challenges with being a tall guest at the Sentinel and the rooms are just too small not to feel a bit closed in.

Portland 5 Star Hotel Bottom Line:

The Sentinel is definitely short of a 5 star hotel in my mind, while The Nines absolutely delivers its 5 star rating. This Portland 5 star hotel battle was won by The Nines.

Marques de Caceres

A few years back I had a highly memorable visit to Rioja in Spain. One of the great stops during my trip was Marques de Caceres, one of the most consistent producers of high quality Rioja wines at an affordable price. For years these wines have been readily available throughout the United States and I have long admired the values that these wines produce even in the challenging vintages. 

Located in the Rioja Alta region, In 1970 Enrique Forner founded the winery which was an alliance between the the Cenicero region in the La Rioja Alta. This family had been focused on the wine trade for five generations, sourcing from some of the great growers and vineyards in the region in a Bordeaux like concept. Cristina Forner is the fourth generation owner of this wine family. They produce a great Grand Reserva, but their Reserva is also consistently good and commands a lower price tag. These wines have increasingly been available at Costco at a price that makes them one of the better wine buys in the retail market. Look to the 2015 Marques de Caceres ‘Reserva’ Rioja (WWB, 92) as the wine has great depth and complexity of aromatics and flavors. A downright awesome value for under fifteen dollars, the 2016 Marques de Caceres ‘Crianza’ Rioja (WWB, 90) continues to impress with its subtle orange rind tones alongside a good core of red fruit flavors. Learn more about these special Rioja wines at https://www.marquesdecaceres.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Marques de Caceres.

2019 Marques de Caceres Rose- The 2019 Marques de Caceres Rose delivers straightforward delicate red fruit and citrus rind flavors. Lithe and refreshing, enjoy on a hot summer day. Drink 2020-2023- 88

2018 Marques de Caceres Garnacha- Sourced from the Cariena region, the 2018 Marques de Caceres Garnacha shows high-toned red fruits with shades of red licorice and blood orange zest that mingle in the glass. The palate has wonderful freshness ad tension that runs through the core of red fruits. A bright beam of salinity accentuates this really good wine. Enjoy this in its youth while the freshness remains. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2016 Marques de Caceres ‘Crianza’ Rioja- Aged in a combination of French and American oak barrels prior to bottling, the 2016 ‘Crianza’ shows orange rind with shades of red currant jelly and exotic spices on this expressive nose. The palate has wonderful freshness with a soft texture. Medium-bodied red fruits greet you, combining with the Mandarin orange rind and damp undertones. Fantastic now, enjoy this beautiful value Rioja over the next seven years. Drink 2020-2027- 90

2015 Marques de Caceres ‘Reserva’ Rioja-The 2015 ‘Reserva’ by Marques de Caceres follows up the fantastic 2014 bottling. Sourced from this exciting warm vintage in Rioja, the wine opens with layers of red and dark fruits that are woven together with suggestions of orange rind, coffee ground and milk chocolate tones that all take shape in the glass. The silky texture entices. Black tea and Asian spices brilliantly combine with leather, damp earth and a good core of black fruits on this expressive palate. The long black fruit and mineral-driven finish lingers long on the tongue. While a delight to savor right now, the 2015 Marques de Caceres ‘Reserva’ Rioja will evolve well in the cellar for decades to come. Drink 2020-2035- 92

2016 Marques de Caceres ‘Excellens’ Rioja- The ‘Excellens’ is a Crianza wine that saw new oak for twelve months before bottling. The soft mouthfeel entices as blackberry cobbler, red currants, leather and shades of pipe tobacco greet you alongside a good sense of minerality. Full-bodied for a Rioja Crianza, enjoy this great new bottling over the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 91

Cava Mestres

In October 2018 I spent nine glorious days in Barcelona. It was more easy to fall into the Catalan routine of daily naps, eating delicious foods and walking the city. While I was there I visited the Cava region for the first time and was very glad that I did. Exports from Cava that we experience in the United States are nowhere near the consistent quality of the wines that I experienced while I was in Catalonia. 

One of the oldest houses in Cava, The Mestres family dates back to 1312 as a wine negotiant and they have owned vineyards in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia since at least 1607. Many years later in 1925  Josep Mestres Manobens made his first sparkling wine by blending indigenous varietals Macabeu, Xarel-lo, and Parellada. Joan Aura serves as cellar master winemaker. They source from their 74 acre estate, which is divided into two plots: Clos Damiana and Clos Nostre Senyor as well as some area vineyards. Their vineyard is set on calcareous clay soils.

Having visited this winery it is set in a storybook setting in the small town of Sadurni d’Antonia, which is roughly an hour from Barcelona via train. The region is quite mountainous and it has a very different climate to Barcelona having a considerably lower maritime influence. Mestres give their sparkling wines extended time (18 months to 7 years) on the lees in bottle, which contributes to the complexity of the wines. During our cellar tour we had a chance to see some of their wines that have date back fifty years. Like many of Spain’s most celebrated houses, Mestres prides themselves at aging their wines and releasing them when they find them ready. We were able to see the disgorgement process as well as some bottling while we were there and I was amazed at the attention to detail as the cellar master inspects each individual bottle, regardless of price. They are truly a storied house in sparkling wine. 

I love their new ‘Reserva’ bottling, the NV Mestres ‘1312’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 91) disgorged in April 2019 and showing gorgeous mouthfeel and a silky mousse. Mestres makes several reserve wines and I was blown away with their 2012 Mestres ‘Visol Gran Reserva Brut Nature’ Cava (WWB, 93) which is one of the most beautiful Cava wines ii have had over the past year and is starting to show nice tertiary tones alongside a wonderful tension. Learn more about this storied winery at http://www.mestres.es/?lang=en Here are the great new wines by Cava Mestres.

NV Cava Mestres ‘1312 Reserva’ Cava- Cava Mestres is one of the historic producers in Cava, as they date back as a wine négociant to 1312. They began growing grapes in 1607 before building their winery in 1861. The Cava is a blend of Xarel.lo, Parellada and Macabeu, which were all hand harvested at the Mestres 74 acre estate, that sits at 680 feet above sea level. Dosage checks in at less than 6 g/l in this fruit driven Cava with final blending being 30% Macabeu, 30% Xarel-lo and 40% Parellada. Disgorged in April 2019, the silky mousse impresses with a soft texture and wonderfully round mouthfeel. Bright lemon zest combines with green apple, Challah bread and ripe nectarine flavors, with lighter cantaloupe, mulberry and wet stone undertones. The sense of terroir here is very good. Inviting in its youth, the ‘1312 Reserva’ will provide drinking enjoyment for another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 91

2015 Cava Mestres ‘Los Cupages de Mestres’ Reserva Rose Cava- A blend of Trepat (50%) with Monastrell (30%) and Pinot Noir (20%), the ‘Los Cupages de Mestres’ Rose was disgorged in 2018. Very delicate red cherry and guava tones combine with musty aromas of wild mushroom and peat moss on this expressive nose. The palate has a soft mousse and wonderful balance and poise. Lighter watermelon and red raspberry collide with shades of blood orange and pear infused Challah bread flavors. Complex, round and generous, this is a complete Cava Rose by Cava Mestres that will cellar well over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2012 Cava Mestres ‘Visol Gran Reserva Brut Nature’ Cava- The 2012 ‘Visol’ is a compelling blend of Xarel-Lo (40%), with 35% Macabeo and 25% Parellada. Disgorged in April 2019 and given zero dosage, the wine shows beautiful sourdough bread, lemon zest and kumquat aromatics with lighter damp earth undertones that take shape in the glass. The weight and balance of the wine is truly beautiful. The silky mousse entices with copious minerals that collide with lemon rind, wet stone and green apple infused French bread that are woven together on this expressive palate. Fantastic now, the ‘Visol’ is going to have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2035- 93

Cobb Wines

Back in December I was sitting at the bar at one of Seattle's great restaurants, RN74, when a familiar face strolled in. ‘That’s Ross Cobb,’ I thought to myself. Ross and I had only met informally at a tasting but what was he doing in Seattle? We greeted each other and he mentioned that he was hosting a wine dinner with another Washington winery. I have long admired Ross’s wines from his namesake winery. 

Cobb Wines was founded by Ross’s father, David Cobb, in 2001. Their story has a long history beginning in 1989 when David Cobb began cultivating Pinot Noir vines at his small Coastlands Vineyard, perched literally right overlooking the Sonoma coast. Cobb Wines combines the wine-growing prowess of David Cobb—one of the first big players in Pinot Noir viticulture on the far Sonoma Coast—with the winemaking talents of his son, Ross. Ross has a long resume, including previous stints at famed producers Ferrari-Carano, and Williams Selyem, where he served as viticulturist and enologist.

Only 130 cases of Cobb Wines were made with their first 2001 vintage. Now their production has increased considerably. I was blown away with what Ross did to his wines in 2017. The salty terroir that he is able to extract makes these truly one of a kind. Look to the 2017 Cobb Wines ‘Rice-Spivak Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) which is a mind-blowing new release that has gobs of minerality, salinity and a silky smooth texture. Learn more about these brilliant Pinot Noirs at http://cobbwines.com Here are the outstanding  new releases from Cobb.

2017 Cobb Wines ‘Wendling Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Located in the Anderson Valley, the ‘Wendling Vineyard’ is planted to Pommard, 114, 667 and Massal Selection clones of Pinot Noir.  Quite translucent once in the glass, this opens with cinnamon infused red cherry with teaberry aromatics and shades of cigar box that all meld in the glass. The texture and bright acidity of the Pinot Noir really shines. Sour red cherry and pomegranate seed collide with suggestions of white grapefruit and damp earth undertones on the palate. Seriously good right now, enjoy this over the next ten years as the earthy, tertiary tones evolve. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2017 Cobb Wines ‘Emmaline Ann Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Emmaline Ann Vineyard’ is located at the western edge of Sebastopol, California. Set on Goldridge soils, this three acre plot of land is very much influenced by the Pacific Ocean. The earthy undertones with peat moss and black truffle really entice, mingling with shades of wild blackberry preserves and clove on this expressive nose. The palate has marvelous verve and freshness as a beam of salinity races through the core of red and dark fruits. The exceedingly long finish lingers on the tongue. Delightful in its youth, this fantastic Pinot Noir will cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2020-2034- 94

2017 Cobb Wines ‘Diane Cobb Coastlands Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Diane Cobb and her family co-founded the famed ‘Coastlands Vineyard’ back in 1989 which is planted to over 20 clones of Pinot Noir. This particular wine is sourced from a specific 1.5 acre parcel of land in the Coastlands Vineyard. Saline drenched red cherry and orange rind connect with shades of nutmeg and forest floor on this expressive nose. The soft mouthfeel really brings this together as bright red fruits and citrus rind accents collide with minerals and shades of peat moss on the palate. Fantastic in its youth, this beautiful wine will cellar well for at least fifteen years. Drink 2020-2034- 94

2017 Cobb Wines ‘Coastlands Vineyard, Old Firs Block’ Pinot Noir- Within the ‘Coastlands Vineyard’ lies the ‘Old Firs Block’ which are home to some of the oldest vines in this historic Sonoma Coast AVA vineyard. The aromatics lean towards the bright salinity and red fruit character, with lighter dustings of white pepper and smoky undertones that all are woven together in the glass. The verve and freshness of the wine is every bit outstanding as lighter blood orange rind and cran-cherry flavors connect with the bright salinity and freshness imparted mid-palate. Seriously good in its youth, this beautiful wine will continue to evolve well or the next fifteen years. Drink 2020-2034- 94

2017 Cobb Wines ‘Rice-Spivak Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Located in the Sonoma Coast AVA, the ‘Rice-Spivak Vineyard’ is set on Goldridge loam and a dusting of volcanic ash, as the vineyard is planted to Dijon and Swan Pinot Noir clones. The nose is intoxicating with its lighter volcanic terroir that collides with shades of salted pomegranate and cranberry fruits that are seamlessly woven together in the glass. The palate is plush and soft, unveiling a seamless effect that makes this beautiful wine glide across the mid-palate. The salinity and textural elements really brilliantly combine with the core of red and dark fruits, with citrus and volcanic earth undertones. Every bit outstanding now, the 2017 ‘Rice-Spivak Vineyard’ Pinot Noir will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2038- 95

2017 Cobb Wines ‘Docs Ranch Vineyard Swan & Calera Selection’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Docs Ranch Vineyard’ is located more than 1000 feet above sea level in the Sonoma Coast AVA as the Calera clone selection was first planted by the Sheets family. The damp earth tones really entice as the bright sense of salinity runs through the core of this expressive nose. The palate shows great texture and freshness with peat moss that collides with wild blackberry and suggestions of teaberry that mingle with orange rind on this downright delicious range of flavors. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next fifteen years. Drink 2020-2034- 93

2017 Cobb Wines ‘Docs Ranch Vineyard Pommard & 114 Selection’ Pinot Noir- This acclaimed Sonoma Coast AVA vineyard is located only three miles from the Pacific Ocean, as strong Maritime influences this site as well as the neighboring Coastlands Vineyard. The deep dark fruit aromas connect with the light flinty and saline tones on this expressive nose. The palate has great weight and a bright beam of salinity that races through the core of dark and red fruits. The long, evocative finish, completes this gorgeous bottling. Drink 2020-2034- 94

Force Majeure

On rare occasion I find it necessary to write a feature immediately after I have tasted the wines. I really savor that concept, keeping wines fresh in your memory as if you have just tried them. Such is the case with last night as I met with superstar winemaker, Todd Alexander, at RN74 Seattle. It had been a year since I tried his Force Majeure wines and I was due for a visit. Todd has recently taken over consultant winemaking duties at The Walls, so he has been very busy of late. We traded travel stories and embarked on what was an epic journey into Washington wine. Todd formerly was winemaker at Bryant Family before coming to Washington and taking the reins at Force Majeure. I have seen a remarkable change at the winery since he has taken over the program. HIs deft Napa touch is evident in the wines as his lineup all share the common vein of great viscosity and mouthfeel, as he is able to capture texturally elegant and gratifying wines. 

Quite simply, the new Force Majeure lineup is up there with the best of Washington. I was blown away with the new 2017 Force Majeure ‘Parvata’ Red Wine (WWB, 95) which is the best bottling of this that I have sampled. This wine has electric range and a gorgeous, dense mouthfeel. Even better was the 2017 Force Majeure ‘Estate’ Syrah (WWB, 96) which is a massive, hedonistic, monster of a wine that not only carries sensational weight and viscosity but seriously good tension and acidity. This is one for the cellar. His Bordeaux style wines were just as thrilling. Do not miss out on the 2017 Force Majeure ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 97) which is up there with the best of its kind in Washington. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://forcemajeurevineyards.com Here are the sensational new release wines by Force Majeure 

2017 Force Majeure ‘Parvata’ Red Wine- Sanskrit for ‘mountain’ the ‘Parvata’ is a silky blend of 42% Mourvedre, 25% Grenache and 25% Syrah with smaller portions Cinsault and Counoise. The wine was aged for 25% new French oak, mostly in larger format oak barrels (400L to 500L), prior to bottling. The ‘Parvata’ starts off with black cherry cordial and shades of black licorice and seaweed that combine smoky and earthy undertones on this expressive nose. The palate has wonderful weight and density, as the silky mouthfeel is thrilling to savor. Showing seriously good flavor range, the wine unveils dense dark fruits with Umami, black peppered sirloin and shades of bulls blood that all march in line on this expressive palate. Thrilling now to savor, the ‘Parvata’ is a joy to consume in its youth and will provide drinking enjoyment over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 95

2017 Force Majeure ‘Les Voles’ Mourvedre- Translated as ‘The Stolen’ in French, the ‘Les Voles’ Mourvedre is a spectacular new bottling by superstar winemaker Todd Alexander. Sourced from their Force Majeure Estate Vineyard on Red Mountain, the ‘Les Voles’ opens with aromas of Black Forest cake and smoke that mingle with white pepped bacon and kirsch cordial that all mingle together in the glass. The palate has deftly combined great freshness, verve and richness, with a silky mouthfeel that delights. Black cherry cough syrup, dark licorice, smoked pork shoulder and shades of green olive tapenade with lighter earthy and flinty tones occupy the palate. Savory and smoky, with wonderful weight, yet not coming across overly heavy, the ‘Les Voules’ is a stunning, one of a kind Mourvedre that is amongst the best of its kind in the state. Drink 2020-2035- 95

2017 Force Majeure ‘Estate’ Syrah- The 2017 Force Majeure ‘Estate’ Syrah is a scintillating new bottling by the talented Todd Alexander. The aromatic range is thrilling from bacon fat to dried herbs and lavender infused black tea that collide with rich dark fruits and sagebrush undertones that take shape in the glass. The texture and mouthfeel of the wine is seriously good while the bright acidity provides a beautiful backbone. A deep core of dark fruits expansively greet you on the palate, combining with shades of Hoisin sauce, smoked brisket, coffee grounds and suggestions of blueberry compote that all create a beautiful range of flavors. Gorgeous now in its youth the 2017 Force Majeure ‘Estate' Syrah will cellar well for the next fifteen years — but is nearly impossible to resist in its youth. Drink 2020-2035- 96

2017 Force Majeure ‘Epinette’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Epinette’ Red Wine is a thrilling blend of 53% Merlot with 26% Cabernet Sauvignon and smaller portions Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Literally meaning ‘pine tree’ in French, this is a nod to Washington State and a link to the pine trees that line the right bank of Bordeaux. The deep dark and blue fruits on the nose marvelously meld with tar and mocha aromatics that are deftly woven together in the glass. The freshness and verve of the wine is outstanding, as a light salinity runs through the core of black cherry cordial, blueberry compote, blackberry compote, exotic spices, mocha, tar and black licorice with sagebrush undertones that all mingle together in the glass. Lightly tannic and rich, yet beautifully balanced, this gorgeous wine really needs a few years of bottle age to fly come into its own. No doubt the 2017 ‘Epinette’ will cellar gracefully for two plus decades. Drink 2022-2040- 96

2017 Force Majeure ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon by Force Majeure is a stunning showing from this estate vineyard high up on Red Mountain. Aged for 80% new French oak for 22 months, this opens with tar and Turkish coffee aromatics that meld with shades of blackberry pie and shades of black tea and exotic spices that all mingle together in the glass. The voluptuous mouthfeel eagerly coats the mid-palate. The wine has moderate tannins that line an intense and highly gratifying core of dark fruits that combine with black licorice, cigar box and creme de cassis flavors. Combination of elegance and rich dark fruit flavors really impress. Sensational in its youth, give this at least a two hour decant prior to enjoying. Drink 2022-2045- 97

2017 Force Majeure ‘Estate’ Tempranillo- Sourced from their one block planted in the Force Majeure Vineyard on Red Mountain, the 2017 Force Majeure ‘Estate’ Tempranillo opens with lovely earthy tones that combine with Hoisin sauce, milk chocolate and shades of wild blackberry preserves that all meld together in the glass. The textural elements to the wine are downright scintillating considering the varietal. Showing amazing weight and verve, this moderately tannic wine delivers black currants that mingle with smoked brisket and suggestions of blueberry compotes and milk chocolate flavors. This is truly one of a kind. Beautiful and every bit hedonistic, yet marvelously balanced in its youth, give this at least a two hour decant if enjoying in its nascent phase. Drink 2020-2038- 96

Washington Wine Blog Critic’s Choice of Washington 2020 Presents The Rocks District

Friends,

We have a very special section at our Feb 15th Critic’s Choice of Washington Event. Many top producers from The Rocks District will be represented at our WWB event in their own special section for our tasting. The wineries represented will be: Delmas, Reynvaan, Sleight of Hand, Doubleback, Rasa, Force Majeure, K Vintners, Betz, W.T. Vintners and Saviah. This will be a tremendous opportunity to try these producers and also 2019 Washington Wine Blog Winery of the Year Cayuse Vineyards.

We have a few tickets remaining so do not miss out on this very special opportunity. Follow link to tickets:

https://www.eventbrite.com/e/washington-wine-blog-critics-choice-of-washington-2020-tickets-86828631775

Brewer-Clifton

Last year I was at a wine event and spotted Greg Brewer from afar. We greeted each other and ironically the first thing we talked about wasn’t wine. ‘I really like that new video,’ as I brought up a high-production and resolution video that was made for promoting Brewer-Clifton wines. ‘Yeah, that was fun to do,’ Greg explained. The video depicts Greg sitting on a beach on a gorgeous summer day, as he casually talks about his wines and wines from the Santa Barbara region. I tried the wines he was pouring and walking away I realized that the video is literally the last thing I should be talking about as I was given a reminder that the wines from Brewer-Clifton are anything but casual beach wines. These are serious wines, stating with their entry level wines and across the board to their downright thrilling single vineyard Pinot Noirs.I first tried these wines during my inaugural visit to Santa Barbara Wine Country in 2004 and I continue to be really impressed with what Greg does with his wines. When you look at the consistency of his product, vintage to vintage, Greg is truly one of the great winemakers in North America. 

I recently had the chance to review all of his new release wines and they were amazing across the board. A few years back Greg launched his ‘Diatom’ project, named after the diatomaceous earth that is found throughout Santa Barbara County. The 2018 Diatom ‘Bar-M’ Chardonnay (WWB, 94) is a show-stopping effort that is marvelously textured and has magical tension and salinity that runs through the wine. Wait for the long, gratifying finish!  Even better was the 2016 Brewer-Clifton ‘Machado’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) which is a roller-coaster ride filled with brightness, range and brilliant terroir. Learn more about these special wines at https://www.brewerclifton.com Here are the great new wines by Greg Brewer and Brewer-Clifton.

2018 Diatom ‘Katherine’s’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Katherine’s’ Chardonnay shows nice salted Marcona almond and pink grapefruit tones that build together aromatically. The palate is exceedingly bright and lithe, showing off a silky texture and yielding medium-bodied lemon cream and saline drenched Challah bread flavors. The long finish is exceedingly good. This has just terrific length and elegance. Fantastic now, this will continue to build for another seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 93

2018 Diatom ‘Bar-M’ Chardonnay- Every bit as outstanding as the ‘Katherine’s’ the ‘Bar-M’ is a truly brilliant wine by superstar winemaker Greg Brewer. Ripe apricot and roasted hazelnuts meld with wild mushroom and earthy undertones on this downright intoxicating nose. The freshness and verve to the wine is outstanding, as the tension, salinity and weight truly entices. The long, buttercream and mineral-driven finish lingers for nearly a minute. Gorgeous in its youth, the ‘Bar-M’ will evolve well for another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 94

2017 Brewer-Clifton ‘Santa Rita Hills’ Chardonnay- Weighing in at 14.5% alcohol, the ‘Santa Rita Hills’ Chardonnay by the talented Greg Brewer was sourced from the 3D, Machado, Acin and Hapgood vineyards. Texturally beautiful, the wine yields great brightness and acidity, as well as weight. Baked apple and vanilla creme brûlée flavors mingle with the earthy and citrus rind undertones on this complex palate. While outstanding now, the 2017 Brewer-Clifton ‘Santa Rita Hills’ Chardonnay will provide drinking enjoyment for another decade, picking up tertiary tones as it ages. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2016 Brewer-Clifton ‘Santa Rita Hills’ Pinot Noir-  The 2016 Brewer-Clifton ‘Santa Rita Hills’ Pinot Noir is an absolutely killer value Pinot Noir by this storied estate first founded in 1996. On the nose this takes on salted Bing cherry tones that collide with shades of blood orange zest, Umami and wild strawberry that all take their shape in the glass. The freshness imparted, as well as the silky texture, really shines here. Bright red cherry preserves and pomegranate seed connect with the damp terroir tones and salted orange zest flavors. While this is outstanding now, the wine will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2016 Brewer-Clifton ‘Machado’ Pinot Noir- Even better than their entry level bottling, the 2016 Brewer-Clifton ‘Machado’ Pinot Noir is a spell-binding new wine from this storied state in the Santa Rita Hills. The ‘Machado Vineyard’ is a 15 acre site that is adjacent to Clos Pepe and immediately behind the Kessler-Haak Vineyard. Planted to Pommard, Merry Edwards, Mount Eden, and 459 clones, the Pinot Noir opens with peat moss and wild blackberry tones that connect with the seaweed and citrus rind aromatics that are all woven together brilliantly in the glass. The palate is lithe, elegant and marvelously textured. Red and dark fruit flavors collide with copious minerals and damp earth undertones, with a beam of salinity that sings through the mid-palate. A complete wine, the 2016 ‘Machado’ will provide an exceedingly long life in the cellar. Drink 2020-2040- 95

2017 Ex Post Facto Syrah- Sourced from a host of sites in the Santa Barbara County, the Syrah shows smoky undertones that mingle with white pepper, blackberry cobbler and suggestions of venison tartare that take shape in the glass. The palate shows a nice combination of verve and viscosity with straightforward black fruit and smoky flavors. Beautiful now, this will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another seven years. Drink 2020-2027- 91

Sleight of Hand Vertical Tasting

A few days ago I was invited to attend a very special Sleight of Hand Vertical Tasting, graciously hosted by Trey Busch. The tasting commemorated Trey’s 20th year of winemaking in grand fashion, as the wines that he shared dated back to the 2000 vintage when he first began his wine journey at Dunham Cellars after the legendary late Eric Dunham. Trey explained his soiree into the world of wine, starting there and moving to Basel Cellars before starting Sleight of Hand with his business partners. We had a chance to try his Sleight of Hand ‘Archimage’ bottling which is their Right Bank style wine, starting with its non-vintage blend up to an exciting barrel sample of their 2018 Archimage Red Wine.

During the tasting a few wines in particular stood out to me. Speaking to Trey, we were both floored by the 2000 Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 91) which is showing marvelously right now and still has a lot of life left. Having recently tried the 2000 Col Solare that was past its prime, the 2000 Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the better wines from this vintage that I have tried over the past several years. Aromatically complex, this shows layers of pretty red fruits with shades of tar, tobacco leaf and citrus rind with lighter stony tones. The palate continues to impress with light wet stone character combining with sour red cherry and lighter wild mushroom tertiary tones. Ironically they sourced from of this wine from Cayuse’s ‘En Cerise Vineyard’ which would account for those lighter wet stone tones.This is wonderfully elegant and should be enjoyed in the near future.

Also quite impressive was the 2001 Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 89) which shows nice Bordelaise tones but is starting to fade a bit. Dark kirsch and tobacco and bell pepper accents mingle with shades of black licorice and damp earthy tones on the palate. This is one to enjoy now.

The wines that I was not surprised by were the thrilling 2013, ‘14 and ‘16 Archimage Red Wines which were all stunning. They have brilliant richness, tension and length. They can definitely be enjoyed now. Talking with production winemaker Keith Johnson he noted that one reason that the wines have such good length was a change in the fermentation process as well as the use of oak. I really like the way that these wines show now. 

We had one somewhat major surprise of the tasting, the 2005 Basel Cellars Syrah (WWB, 92) was an impressive wine sourced mostly from the Lewis Vineyard. The smoky and savory tones really gratified as the wine carried really good weight and acidity. We were all really impressed with this special tasting which was such a treat to commemorate one of the great people in Washington wine, Trey Busch.

2017 Bordeaux

Friends, yesterday I had a chance to visit a great trade tasting put on by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux. While not every producer was able to attend, those that did put on a very strong showing. Some wine writers have already been quite bullish on the 2017 vintage. Yields were down significantly in 2017 compared to 2016 as frost had quite a major impact on crop sizes. Rain and cooler temperatures in September contributed to ripening issues for some producers. Ironically the vintage also saw considerably less rain than usual during summer months, but also less sunshine than most vintages. While things were generally going smoothly for producers, a hail storm in August made for some initial challenges before harvest, lowering yields once again. 

Still, speaking to many of the producers at the event, they were pleased with the results in the bottle. While this vintage may not gain the acclaim of the stunning 2015 and 2016 vintages, 2017 has a lot of promise from what I have tasted. Here are my notes from some of the new 2017 vintage Bordeaux wines.

Blanc: 

2017 Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte Blanc- The 2017 Smith Haut-Lafitte is a head-turning wine that is absolutely singing in its youth and will provide drinking enjoyment for decades to come. Straight out of the gate the wine is beautifully perfumed as the wine shows bright honeysuckle and mango tones giving this an exotic edge aromatically. The palate shows off its silky smooth texture, providing a stunning mouthfeel.  Once on the mouth the wine shows impressive length with an incredibly long finish. Simply put, this is a jaw-dropping Bordeaux Blanc that will cellar well for decades to come Drink 2020-2045- 97

2017 Chateau Bouscaut Blanc- Made from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, the 2017 Chateau Bouscaut Blanc is a gorgeous effort. The tension and minimality of the wine truly shines. On the palate this shows good weight and mouthfeel with bright citrus and orchard fruits flavors. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2017 Domaine De Chevalier Blanc- The 2017 Domaine De Chelvalier Blanc is a gorgeous blend of 70% Sauvignon and 30% Sémillon that was aged for sixteen months before bottling. Right out of the gate the wine feels very fresh and light with wet stone and melon tones. The wine shows vibrant acidity and a wonderful sense of balance, carrying good mid-palate weight. No doubt the 2017 Domaine De Chevalier will be long-lived and is fantastic to savor in its youth. Drink 2020-2030-93

Sauternes:

2017 Chateau Bastor-Lamontage- The 2017 Chateau Bastor-Lamontage is a beautiful showing in this vintage. Right away the wine provides an open texture and a good combination of tension and weight, with medium-bodied candied ginger, vanilla creme brullee and honey with cardamom accents. I can see this cellaring well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2020-2035- 92

2017 Chateau Coutet- The 2017 Chateau Coutet is a beautiful wine that is needing a bit more time in the bottle to gain complexity. Aromatically intense, the wine shows good range from honey and nutmeg infused creme brûlée tones that combine with lighter wet stone and brandy soaked pear aromas that take shape in the glass. Flavors of vanilla cream and butterscotch with apricot jelly accents highlight this gorgeous wine. The palate has great tension and verve, revealing a silky mouthfeel. The exceedingly long finish lingers long on the tongue. Give this beautiful wine a few years in the cellar prior to enjoying. Drink 2022-2040- 94

2017 Chateau Guiraud- The 2017 Chateau Guiraud is a stunning effort from this storied house in Sauternes. Immediately providing appeal, the wine shows good verve and tension with bright creme brûlée, orange marmalade and vanilla bean flavors.The long finish lingers.  Outstanding in its youth, this will cellar well for decades. Try to give this a few more years if you can. Drink 2022-2040- 94

Rouge:

2017 Chateau Phelan Segur- The 2017 Chateau Phelan-Segur is a fantastic effort from this vintage. The wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), and 34% Merlot with 1% Cabernet Franc. On the nose this takes on wonderful dark fruit tones with red bell pepper and accents of menthol that all mingle together in the glass. The palate has a good sense of balance and a soft mouthfeel. Light tannins line the core of dark fruits with pipe tobacco and red bell pepper tones. This is very elegant even in its youth, as there 2017 Chateau Phelan-Segur will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another fifteen years. Drink 2024-2040- 92

2017 Chateau Grand Puy-Lacoste- Chateau Grand Puy-Lacoste is one of the older houses in the Medoc.  The final wine is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Merlot which were sourced from vines that average roughly forty years of age. The wine has immediate appeal as it is dense and gratifying once in the mouth. The wine has really good weight, revealing creosote tones next to the blackberry and damp earthy accents that all mingle together in the glass. This is truly fantastic stuff even in its youth and will cellar well for the next two decades. Try to give this at last a few more years to develop. Drink 2024- 2040- 92

2017 Chateau Clerc Millon- The 2017 Chateau Clerc Millon is an awesome effort from this storied house. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot and 1% Carmenère, right away the wine shows a good combination of weight and freshness, unveiling medium to full bodied blackberry, tar, sandalwood and mocha flavors.The lovely herbal undertones with light tannins lead to a long and gratifying finish. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the enact twenty years. Drink 2024-2040- 93

2017 Chateau D'Armailhac- The 2017 Chateau D’Armailhac shows beautifully already in its youth. A compelling blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, the wine really nice herbal tones with tar and black licorice on this expressive nose. Once on the mouth the wine shows good salinity and tension with medium bodied dark fruit and tar flavors. The wine maintains a good sense of balance and a soft mouthfeel throughout. I can see this needing a bit more time to come together. Drink 2025-2040- 92

2017 Chateau Beychevelle - The 2017 Chateau Beychevelle is a stunning new wine from this storied house. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), and supplemented by Merlot (45%), Petit Verdot (4%) and Cabernet Franc (1%) This is a massive success for this storied house. The wine has a marvelously elegant nose with red bell pepper undertones that meld with cassis and blackberry cobbler. The senes of balance and weight is outstanding as the wine unveils a deep core of dark fruits and light tannins that connect with the creosote and Turkish coffee tones. The wine has marvelously length with great tension that runs through the core of the wine. This is one of the more impressive efforts from this house, as the 2017 Beychevelle will be exceedingly long-lived. Drink 2025-2050- 95

2017 Chateau Lascombes- The 2017 Chateau Lascombes is a fabulous showing in this vintage Right away the wine unveils a gorgeous nose with red rose petals that combine with copious dark fruits and chocolate, alongside herbal undertones on this intoxicatingly good bouquet. The palate is dense and fleshy revealing a great combination of weight and tension. A light salinity races through the blackberry cobbler mocha, anise and chocolate pie flavors. Fantastic now, the wine will continue to evolve for decades. If enjoying in its youth, give this a very long decant. Drink 2025- 2040- 94

2017 Chateau Giscours- The 2017 Chateau Giscours is an excellent effort in this vintage. The wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (70%) with smaller portions Merlot and Petit Verdot. The wine has good balance with medium bodied red and dark fruit flavors on the nose. A light dusting of salinity follows as the wine is moderately tannic, revealing forward blackberry cobbler and coffee ground flavors. Drink 2024- 2040- 92

2017 Chateau Gazin- The 2017 Chateau Gazin is already quite forward, as the wine shows a ripe core of dark fruits with Turkish coffee and milk chocolate accents. While this is not the most complex, the wine shows beautifully now and will continue to evolve well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2021-2036- 91

2017 Chateau Clinet- The 2017 Chateau Clinet is a simply magical effort from this storied house on the right bank. Almost entirely Merlot (92%) with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2017 Chateau Clinet opens with wonderful boysenberry preserve, mocha, tar and anise aromas that all march in harmony in the glass. Highly poised and marvelously balanced, the wine has a silky mouthfeel and unveils deep cassis, graphite and mocha flavors with lighter bell pepper undertones. The wine has a gorgeous finish with anise, minerals and a light dusting of cocoa powder. The 2017 Chateau Clinet is a marvelous effort that will evolve well for decades. Give this at least two more years of bottle age prior to enjoying. Drink 2022-2045- 94

2017 Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte- The 2017 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte is a thrilling wine that has already evolved well in its youth. The wine is a scintillating blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot, with smaller parts Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The wine shows great weight and verve, offering some immediate appeal. Rich dark fruits combine with chocolate covered espresso bean flavors and moderate tannins entice on the palate. The elegance and mouthfeel of this wine is scintillating. The wine finishes strong with black fruits and minerals, showing excellent length. Fantastic already, the 2017 Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte will cellar well for decades to come. Drink 2024-2055- 95

2017 Domaine De Chevalier- The 2017 Domaine De Chevalier is a really good effort from this vintage.A compelling blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot, the wine was aged in 35% new French oak prior to bottling. The wine has good richness and a light vein of tension that runs through the core of oak fruits and chocolate covered espresso bean flavors. While not highly nuanced, this provides some immediate appeal. The long finish entices. Drink 2024- 2040-93

Vina Almaviva

It brings me great pleasure to write about one of the great wines of the world out of Chile. In 1997, Baroness Philippine de Rothschild, Chairman of the Advisory Board of Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA, and Eduardo Guilisasti Tagle, Chairman of Viña Concha y Toro S.A., sealed a partnership agreement with a view to create an exceptional Franco-Chilean wine called Almaviva. Produced under the joint technical supervision of both partners, the first vintage had great acclaim upon its launch in 1998. The rest has been history. I have been drawn to these wines since I first tried them a decade ago. For those who have never had the cache to try Vina Almaviva, you are in for a great treat.

These wines are dense and massive, needing a lot of air prior to drinking. Like many great modern wines of the world, they are approachable in their youth after a long decant. I recently had the chance to try the two latest vintages of Vina Almaviva and was absolutely blown away with the quality of the wines. They are both massive and captivating wines with great terroir and tension. Here are my reviews of the 2016 and 2017 Vina Almaviva wines. 

2016 Vina Almaviva Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 Almaviva Cabernet Sauvignon is a seductive, dense and chewy effort from this historic project in Chile. Aromatically a bit reticent and needing some time in the decanter to unwind, this beautiful Cabernet slowly unveils exotic spice aromas that parade with suggestions of creme de cassis, green bell pepper, and huckleberry pie. The silky mouthfeel really entices and captivates the senses. While obviously rich, this has a brightness and good sense of minerality that runs through the core of intense dark fruit, milk chocolate, pipe tobacco and dried herbal flavors that all push the envelope in intensity and decadence. While a delight to enjoy at this stage in its development, the 2016 Almaviva Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for the next two decades. Drink 2020-2038- 96

2017 Vina Almaviva Caberent Sauvignon- The 2017 Almaviva is a show-stopping effort from this storied Chilean Estate. This is a compelling blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Carménère with the remainder Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. As this begins to unwind in the glass it releases captivating nuances of crème de cassis and blackberry pie which are joined by red bell pepper, green olive tapenade and Turkish coffee that all come together to provide the stunning aromatics.  On the palate this full-bodied red is possesses a gorgeous silky, seamless quality that is backed by a multi-layered texture that leaves behind flavors of ripe dark fruits, mocha, creosote and black olive that all leave a lasting impression. Elegant, yet rich and sophisticated, the 2017 Almaviva is gorgeous now and should also have a sensational future ahead of it. Drink 2020-2040- 97

MacRostie Winery

One of the great stops in the Russian River Valley, MacRostie was founded by fellow Whitman College graduate, Steve MacRostie. Speaking to Steve a few years back, I was enchanted by his vision to craft terroir-driven Chardonnay and Pinot Noir many years before most people were following that model in Sonoma. Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen has a illustrious history in the wine industry having an undergraduate degree from the University of Colorado at Boulder. She has worked in the enology laboratory of Jackson Family Wines before working at Clos du Bois, Oyster Bay as well as Sonoma-Cutrer. She has a really good set of new release wines.

MacRostie sources from some great vineyards including Dutton Ranch, Sangiacomo, Martinelli and Bacigalupi, and from Steve’s Wildcat Mountain Vineyard which he purchased decades back. I have always enjoyed wines from the ‘Wildcat Mountain Vineyard’ and this year’s rendition the 2016 MacRostie ‘Wildcat Mountain’ Chardonnay (WWB, 93) has marvelous range and a silky texture. This is one for the cellar. I was totally blown away with the 2016 MacRostie ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) which shows incredible texture and plush red fruits. Learn more about this great Sonoma winery at https://macrostiewinery.com/ Here are the great new wines by MacRostie.

2017 MacRostie ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay - The 2017 ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay is a seriously good new wine by MacRostie. On the nose this yields bright lemon cream with Pink Lady apple and shades of wild mushroom that round out the aromatics. The palate shows good freshness and weight, with bright lemon oil, Mandarin orange zest and a seriously good saline steak that runs through the wine. Finishing strong with citrus cream and minerals, this excellent effort is best savored over the next seven years. Drink 2019-2025- 91 

2018 MacRostie ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay- Right away you are allured by the bright lemon zest aromas that meld with shades of white raisin and nectarine that take shape in the glass. Soft and round, with a generous mouthfeel, this shows an enticing texture, as the wine unveils green apple, honeydew melon and lemon cream flavors that mingle with minerals on the palate. Fresh, lively and very good in its youth, the 2017 ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay will cellar well over the next seven plus years. Drink 2019-2026- 91

2016 MacRostie ‘Wildcat Mountain’ Chardonnay- The 2016 ‘Wildcat Mountain’ Chardonnay by MacRostie. Golden in the glass, the wine opens with saline drenched roasted hazelnuts with lemon oil and vanilla cream that all mingle nicely in the glass. The palate combines great weight and freshness with hugely satisfying lemon creme brûlée flavors with green apple accents and wild mushroom. The mid-palate range, salinity and minerality really satisfies. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2016 MacRostie ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir- A seriously good value, the ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir by MacRostie screams class with its bright red fruit and cola with citrus rind aromatics that all impress. The palate is plush, delivering both a silky texture and a lithe mouthfeel. Plush and dense red fruits dance with blood orange and kumquat flavors with a kiss of cola. Delicious now, enjoy this over the next eight plus years. Drink 2019-2025- 93

2017 MacRostie ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 MacRostie ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir opens with bright strawberry and cran-pomegranate with cola accents on this expressive nose. The palate has good freshness and a lovely dose of minerality that sits alongside the rather forward red fruit flavors. The plush texture really entices. Drink 2019-2025- 91

2016 MacRostie ‘Thale’s Vineyard’ PInot Noir- The ‘Thale’s Vineyard’ is located in the Russian River Valley AVA. The wine shows good ripeness on the nose with bright bing cherry and raspberry cordial aromatics that connect with a hint of cola. The palate is plush, delivering medium-bodied red fruit and citrus rind flavors. Forward and delicious now, this will continue to evolve well over the next seven plus years. Drink 2019-2026- 91

Lagana Cellars

Some really good talents have come out of Walla Walla Community College’s enology and viticulture program. The list of talents continues to rise as Jason Fox is one of them that started his own Lagana Cellars in 2013. Lagana sources from some great vineyards including Sagemoor and Seven Hills vineyards. Jason is earnest, frank and highly knowledgable as I have enjoyed my time chatting with him at his downtown Walla Walla tasting room. Jason partners with Todd Bernave in Lagana Cellars winemaking as Todd had a career in fine art for fifteen years prior to getting into winemaking.

They both have done a really good job with crafting mineral-driven white wines and I thoroughly enjoyed the 2018 Lagana Cellars ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 90) which has really good freshness and a long finish. Even better was his 2017 Nox Perpetua Carmenere (WWB, 91) which shows great varietal typicity and downright delicious chocolate tones. Learn more about these wines at http://www.laganacellars.com Here are the new wine releases by Lagana Cellars. 

2018 Lagana Cellars ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Needing a bit of air to get started, the 2018 ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Chardonnay shows off bright lemon zest with vanilla cream on the nose. The palate has good freshness and tension that runs through the core of the wine, but the real treat is the long finish that lingers on the tongue. While this is on the lighter side, the sense of balance is excellent. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2017 Lagana Cellars ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah- Showing off its inky core, the ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah opens with layers of black fruits woven together with tar, anise and shades of smoked pork shoulder on this expressive nose. The palate has good freshness revealing medium-bodied black fruit and black tea flavors. What this doesn’t possess in body it makes up for it in verve. Drink this finesse-driven Syrah over the next seven years. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2017 Lagana Cellars ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc- The 2017 ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc is admittedly the first of its kind that I have sampled from this newly planted vineyard. The herbal tones entice aromatically with Christmas spice cake and shades of black licorice that collide with the core of dark fruits that all take shape in the glass. The palate shows a bright beam of acidity that connects with the medium-bodied dark fruit, tar and sour cherry flavors. Novel and showing good brightness, this lightly tannic, somm-friendly effort will cellar well over the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 90

2017 Lagana Cellars ‘J&S Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Located in the Walla Walla Valley, the J&S Vineyard is a 4 acre parcel not far from the Washington/Oregon border. The nose is very pretty with red rose petals that are lined with shades of boysenberry cordial and dried sage that all meld in the glass. The mouthfeel and bright acidity is excellent as the wine unveils medium-bodied dark fruit flavors with herbal undertones. Drink 2020-2027- 90

2017 Nox Perpetua Carmenere- Sourced from the J&S Vineyard, the wine has 15% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. You have to admire the bright red bell pepper, and red fruits that the wine delivers. The silky texture is outstanding as a deep core of blackberry compote and black licorice meld with dark chocolate covered espresso bean flavors. This is really good stuff. Drink 2020-2030- 91

The Walls

One relatively new wine project out of Walla Walla, The Walls was founded by former software executive, Mike Martin. Mike has been an exceedingly busy man of late, as he recently purchased the Rockgarden Estate Vineyard from Buty Winery to add to his portfolio. The Walls is actually named after a Walla Walla nickname for the local Washington State Penitentiary, The Walls imparts aptly playful names for their wines, like the ‘Concrete Mama’ referring to both the storage of the wine along with the housing for penitentiary inmates. It was recently announced that superstar winemaker, Todd Alexander, will be the new consulting winemaker for The Walls who also recently opened a new winery on Pine St. in downtown Walla Walla.  Todd brings a wealth of experience to The Walls and I am very excited to see what he does with this program as he has been crafting some stunning, one of a kind, new wines for Force Majeure.

The new 2017 The Walls ‘MacAndrew’ Chardonnay (WWB, 91) has terrific poise and balance, as this cool site wine would be great for a warm summer day. I really enjoyed the 2017 The Walls ‘Concrete Mama’ Syrah (WWB, 92) which has good freshness and lift, with a plush texture and lovely stony undertones. Learn more about these great wines at https://www.thewallsvineyards.com Here are the new releases by The Walls.

2017 The Walls ‘Les Jeunes Vignes’ Chardonnay- Showing off a bright color, the Les Jeunes Vignes’ opens with light white peach and damp stone aromas that take shape in the glass. The polished mouthfeel and soft texture really entices here as ripe orchard fruits and lighter wet stone and melon tones come together beautifully on the palate. This is really well-done. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2018 The Walls ‘Martin’s Gold’ Chardonnay- Sourced from the French Creek Vineyard in the Yakima Valley, the ‘Martin’s Gold’ opens with pretty honeysuckle with honeydew melon and baked apple aromas that take shape in the glass. The palate is soft, delivering a wonderful freshness and texture. Bright lemon cream and vanilla creme brûlée flavors collide with minerals and ripe melon undertones. This is fantastic stuff now that will evolve well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2017 The Walls ‘MacAndrew’ Chardonnay- The 2017 ‘MacAndrew’ Chardonnay is sourced from the White Salmon Vineyard in the Columbia Gorge. Lithe and showing good minerality, the wine reveals bright green apple, starfruit and vanilla cream flavors. Enjoy this in the short-term while the brightness remains. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2017 The Walls ‘River Rock Vineyard’ Grenache- Sourced from the ‘River Rock Vineyard’ in The Rocks of Milton-Freewater AVA, this Grenache combines smoky and lighter wet stone tones with bright red fruits that march in line in the glass. The freshness is very nice as medium-bodied red fruit flavors mingle with orange rind and a hint of Umami on the palate. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2017 The Walls ‘Concrete Mama’ Syrah- Sourced from the ‘River Rock Vineyard’ this shows good aromatic range form bacon fat to tar and umami that collide with the dense core of dark fruits that take shape in the glass. The palate is plush, giving off a silky texture and bright, mouth-watering acidity. Blackberry jelly with creosote and seaweed flavors mingle with the lighter stony undertones on the palate. Enjoy this over the next decade. Drink 2020-2029- 92

2017 The Walls ‘The Ramparts’ Red Wine- A blend of 40% Grenache, and 40% Mourvedre with small portions Counoise and Viognier, ‘The Ramparts’ shows nice scorched earth and herbal tones that collide with a good core of dark fruits on the nose. The palate shows a silky texture and plush mouthfeel with straightforward dark fruit and cocoa powder flavors. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2017 The Walls ‘Stanley Groovy’ Red Wine- A kitchen sink blend of six Red Mountain sourced varietals, including 28% Touriga Nacional, the inky colored ‘Stanley Groovy’ opens with a bouquet of tar and smoky tones that meld with the rich black fruit on the nose. The palate is dense and unveils a soft mouthfeel. Black Forest cake and shades of tar with smoked brisket all combine marvelously on the palate. Fantastic now, this highly novel Washington red wine will cellar well for the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2017 The Walls ‘Curiositas’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Deeply perfumed, the ‘Curiositas’ shows blackberry compote and smoky tones that meld with chocolate cake aromatics that play together in the glass. Soft and generous on the mouth, the wine delivers medium to full-bodied dark fruit flavors with violet, sagebrush and smoky undertones. Enjoy this excellent Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon over the next decade.  Drink 2020-2030- 91

Fullerton Wines

Fullerton Wines was founded in 2012 by Eric and Susanne Fullerton. Head winemaker Alex Fullerton heads the 4500 case production winery, crafting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Alex has previously worked as Penner-Ash, as well as Drylands in New Zealand. He began making his own wine out of his garage in 2011. The tasting room is located in Beaverton, only about 40 minutes from Portland.

I recently had the chance to sample the range of new wines by Fullerton and they were very good across the board. The 2017 Fullerton ‘Luxe’ Chardonnay (WWB, 92) has great tension and a lovely mouthfeel. This is one for the cellar. 2014 Fullerton ‘Fir Crest Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 92) has wonderful range and freshness, as this has great cellaring potential as well. Learn more about these wines at http://www.fullertonwines.com Here are the great new releases from Fullerton Wines:

2017 Fullerton ‘Five Faces’ Chardonnay- The ‘Five Faces’ Chardonnay is a beautiful bottling by Fullerton. Ripe banana and brioche fill the nose. The freshness imparted its marvelous, as is soft mouthfeel and bright acidity that all leads to the exceedingly long finish. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2017 Fullerton Wines ‘Lux’ Chardonnay- The ‘Lux’ Chardonnay is a barrel selection wine made by Fullerton comprised of Wente, Davis 108, Dijon 76, 95 and 96 clones. The wine opens with suggestions of lemon zest with Challah bread and ripe pear that all mingle on the nose. The soft texture is enticing as ripe orchard fruits mingle with minerals, vanilla cream and shades of baked apple on the palate. While this is beautiful now, the ‘Lux’ will continue to evolve over the next decade or more, picking up tertiary notes. Drink 2020-2029- 92

2017 Fullerton ‘Three Otters’ Pinot Noir- This translucent colored Pinot Noir shows lighter guava and citrus rind tones with shades of red cherry candy on this enticing nose. The freshness here is excellent as light to medium bodied red fruits collide with minerals on the palate. This is really a good value. Drink 2020-2023- 89

2017 Fullerton ‘Bjornson Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Bjornson Vineyard’ is located in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, as the vineyard is dramatically set with views of Mt. Hood in the background. Ripe red and dark fruits mingle with shades of clove and cinnamon on the nose. The freshness and sense of balance is wonderful as citrus rind and red fruits mingle with the bright sense of minerality. I can see this cellaring well for another decade. Drink 2020-2029- 91

2017 Fullerton ‘Momtazi Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Oregon wine pioneer Moe Momtazi planted his vineyard in the steeply sloped region that has great influence from the Van Duzer Corridor, as the vineyard is intriguingly set on both marine sedimentary soils and volcanic soils. The stony tones from the volcanic earth really entice on the nose alongside the lighter black fruit tones. While the palate comes off a bit lean, the sense of tension in the wine is really nice, as light red and dark fruits mingle with minerals, saline drenched damp earth and a dusting of volcanic stone. Drink 2020-2029- 91

2017 Fullerton ‘Fir Crest Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Located in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, the ‘Fir Crest Vineyard’ is set on sedimentary Willakenzie soils that the AVA has become quite famous for. The light saline tones are beautiful and mingle with the bright red fruits and citrus blossom tones on the nose. The palate has really nice fleshy red fruits that dance with the lovely peat moss and damp terroir tones. This is fantastic stuff now but will continue to evolve for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2029- 92

2017 Fullerton ‘Bella Vida Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Bella Vida Vineyard,’ set on volcanic soils, is located in the Dundee Hills AVA and is plated to Pinot Noir Dijon clones 113, 667 and 777. The earthy tones really excite with forest floor and volcanic earth that mingle with the lighter wild blackberry tones that all mingle nicely in the glass. On the palate this shows excellent verve, with light to medium bodied dark cherry, wild blackberry and damp earth flavors. Drink 2020-2029- 91

2017 Fullerton ‘Lichtenwalter VIneyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Lichtenwalter Vineyard’ is set in the Ribbon Ridge AVA as this wine is planted to Pinot Noir Dijon clone 777. You are drawn to the damp earth and peat moss tones aromatically that mingle with suggestions of cran-pomegrnate on the expressive nose. The balance and poise is really nice, as the creamy, ripe texture connects with the ripe red fruits on the palate. This is excellent now but this beautiful wine will continue to evolve well for the next decade. Drink 2020-2029- 92

2017 Fullerton ‘Alderbrook Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Chehalem Mountains AVA, this limited production single vineyard bottling opens with delicate red fruits that collide with the earthy tones on the nose. The palate comes off a bit lean and linear with a bright sense of minerality. Drink 2020-2025- 89