In October 2018 I spent nine glorious days in Barcelona. It was more easy to fall into the Catalan routine of daily naps, eating delicious foods and walking the city. While I was there I visited the Cava region for the first time and was very glad that I did. Exports from Cava that we experience in the United States are nowhere near the consistent quality of the wines that I experienced while I was in Catalonia.
One of the oldest houses in Cava, The Mestres family dates back to 1312 as a wine negotiant and they have owned vineyards in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia since at least 1607. Many years later in 1925 Josep Mestres Manobens made his first sparkling wine by blending indigenous varietals Macabeu, Xarel-lo, and Parellada. Joan Aura serves as cellar master winemaker. They source from their 74 acre estate, which is divided into two plots: Clos Damiana and Clos Nostre Senyor as well as some area vineyards. Their vineyard is set on calcareous clay soils.
Having visited this winery it is set in a storybook setting in the small town of Sadurni d’Antonia, which is roughly an hour from Barcelona via train. The region is quite mountainous and it has a very different climate to Barcelona having a considerably lower maritime influence. Mestres give their sparkling wines extended time (18 months to 7 years) on the lees in bottle, which contributes to the complexity of the wines. During our cellar tour we had a chance to see some of their wines that have date back fifty years. Like many of Spain’s most celebrated houses, Mestres prides themselves at aging their wines and releasing them when they find them ready. We were able to see the disgorgement process as well as some bottling while we were there and I was amazed at the attention to detail as the cellar master inspects each individual bottle, regardless of price. They are truly a storied house in sparkling wine.
I love their new ‘Reserva’ bottling, the NV Mestres ‘1312’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 91) disgorged in April 2019 and showing gorgeous mouthfeel and a silky mousse. Mestres makes several reserve wines and I was blown away with their 2012 Mestres ‘Visol Gran Reserva Brut Nature’ Cava (WWB, 93) which is one of the most beautiful Cava wines ii have had over the past year and is starting to show nice tertiary tones alongside a wonderful tension. Learn more about this storied winery at http://www.mestres.es/?lang=en Here are the great new wines by Cava Mestres.
NV Cava Mestres ‘1312 Reserva’ Cava- Cava Mestres is one of the historic producers in Cava, as they date back as a wine négociant to 1312. They began growing grapes in 1607 before building their winery in 1861. The Cava is a blend of Xarel.lo, Parellada and Macabeu, which were all hand harvested at the Mestres 74 acre estate, that sits at 680 feet above sea level. Dosage checks in at less than 6 g/l in this fruit driven Cava with final blending being 30% Macabeu, 30% Xarel-lo and 40% Parellada. Disgorged in April 2019, the silky mousse impresses with a soft texture and wonderfully round mouthfeel. Bright lemon zest combines with green apple, Challah bread and ripe nectarine flavors, with lighter cantaloupe, mulberry and wet stone undertones. The sense of terroir here is very good. Inviting in its youth, the ‘1312 Reserva’ will provide drinking enjoyment for another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 91
2015 Cava Mestres ‘Los Cupages de Mestres’ Reserva Rose Cava- A blend of Trepat (50%) with Monastrell (30%) and Pinot Noir (20%), the ‘Los Cupages de Mestres’ Rose was disgorged in 2018. Very delicate red cherry and guava tones combine with musty aromas of wild mushroom and peat moss on this expressive nose. The palate has a soft mousse and wonderful balance and poise. Lighter watermelon and red raspberry collide with shades of blood orange and pear infused Challah bread flavors. Complex, round and generous, this is a complete Cava Rose by Cava Mestres that will cellar well over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 92
2012 Cava Mestres ‘Visol Gran Reserva Brut Nature’ Cava- The 2012 ‘Visol’ is a compelling blend of Xarel-Lo (40%), with 35% Macabeo and 25% Parellada. Disgorged in April 2019 and given zero dosage, the wine shows beautiful sourdough bread, lemon zest and kumquat aromatics with lighter damp earth undertones that take shape in the glass. The weight and balance of the wine is truly beautiful. The silky mousse entices with copious minerals that collide with lemon rind, wet stone and green apple infused French bread that are woven together on this expressive palate. Fantastic now, the ‘Visol’ is going to have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2035- 93