Colene Clemens

In his youth Joe Stark had ambitions of someday owning his own business. He worked in his father's small cabinet shop and learned about business from his father. In 2005 his wife Vicki and he were able to fulfill his dream by founding Colene Clemens, named after Vicki’s mother. Colene Clemens was created right in their own backyard, as their property had the correct aspect (south facing), elevations (350ft to 650 ft) and an array of high quality, proven Pinot Noir soils to start their winery.

Winemaker Steve Goff is originally from Philadelphia and moved to San Francisco. Steve became fascinated with winemaking, eventually graduating from the Enology and Viticulture program at Fresno State University and he worked his way to the position of Assistant Winemaker at Beaux Frères. After working six vintages at Beaux Frères, he joined Joe and Vicki Stark in 2008 as the Winemaker and Vineyard Manager for Colene Clemens. Steve’s new wines from the 2019 vintage are really outstanding across the board. I love the new 2019 Colene Clemens Chehalem Mountains Chardonnay (OB, 92) which is fresh and viscous with seriously good texture. Even better is the fantastic 2019 Colene Clemens ‘Max’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is burly considering some of the challenges at harvest. This is downright awesome stuff to savor right now, as it has both the acidity and weight to cellar well for another fifteen plus years. Learn more about these outstanding wines at coleneclemens.com and here are my reviews of the new wines by Colene Clemens and winemaker Steve Goff. 

2019 Colene Clemens Chehalem Mountains Chardonnay- The 2019 Colene Clemens Chehalem Mountains Chardonnay is a joy to consume right now in its youth. Toasty oak with buttered popcorn and wet stone all combine on the palate. The soft texture and length add to the enjoyment. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2019 Colene Clemens ‘Margo’ Pinot Noir- The really good 2019 Colene Clemens ‘Margo’ Pinot Noir shows rich cherry cola with ash and pomegranate seed tones aromatically. The plate shows good verve and viscosity, finishing long with rich red and dark fruits with smoldering stones. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2019 Colene Clemens ‘Victoria’ Pinot Noir-The 2019 ‘Victoria’ is a gorgeous effort that is already nicely evolved. Sour cherry and black raspberry combine with salty soils aromatically. The freshness and finesse is outstanding as this is ripe and juicy, red fruit-driven wine that is best enjoyed over the next decade. Drink 2022-2034- 93

2019 Colene Clemens ‘Adriane’ Pinot Noir-The really tasty 2019 Colene Clemens ‘Adriane’ Pinot Noir reveals more depth and than the ‘Margo’ with pomegranate seed and iron accents that mingle well with minerals and shades of orange zest with salty tilled soils. The combination of mouthfeel and finesse really works here. Quite primary now, enjoy this deeply concentrated 2019 Pinot Noir over the next twelve years. Drink 2022-2034- 93

2019 Colene Clemens ‘Max’ Pinot Noir- The best wine out of the new Colene Clemens lineup, the ‘Max’ is named after Colene's great grandson. Immediately gratifying the 2019 ‘Max’ Pinot Noir unveils cherry cola and sassafras accents aromatically. The palate comes off very fresh and refined with firm tannins that line a rich core of red and dark fruits with shades of cinnamon, clove and mandarin orange rind. Finishing long, this gorgeous effort will provide drinking enjoyment for another fifteen years to come. Drink 2022-2037- 94

Buty White Wine Vertical Tasting

For years I have admired the red and white wines of Buty, a Walla Walla winery founded in 2000 by Nina Buty and Caleb Foster. For more than two decades Buty produced some outstanding wines and I was saddened to hear about the closing in January 2022. The winery began in 2000 and then in 2006 they purchased a former apple farm in the Rocks District, which they named their Rockgarden Estate Vineyard. In 2012 Caleb left Buty to pursue other ventures, handing winemaking over to Chris Dowsett, who made some excellent wines there until Buty’s recent closing.

Sitting down with former winemaker Caleb Foster, we both were in utter disbelief of how many of the older wines in the tasting held so well. For years Caleb has made wines from the Conner Lee Vineyard and after Buty he made some brilliant wines from that vineyard. Many of the Chardonnays we tasted were from that vineyard and I was impressed at the level of acidity that stayed intact in the wines. That “bright acidity” as Caleb mentioned rang true in the tasting but we also were impressed with the quality of the corks as “We spent a lot of time and money on corks back then” he explained. “Long before DIAM we invested in top quality corks” he noted as only one wine of the tasting had cork influence.

In terms of the most interesting wine of the tasting, that award had to go to the 2001 Buty ‘Roza Berge Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which is from a now defunct vineyard (currently a wheat field). The wine was amazing in terms of flavor range and still has some acidity holding things together. We tried the gorgeous 2009 Buty ‘Conner Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) out of a magnum and the wine was incredibly vibrant despite being more than a decade old. “Washington white wine can age if they’re made in the right way” Caleb explained. I couldn’t agree more. Here are my notes from an extraordinary vertical tasting of Buty white wines. 

2001 Buty ‘Roza Berge Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from a vineyard that is now defunct and is now a wheat field, the ‘Roza Berge Vineyard’ is off the 240 highway that goes from Prosser to Mattawah, this is from a north-facing slope in the Yakima Valley. A golden hue, this reveals surprisingly good freshness with baked apple and pear, as well as cloves. Soft and very silky on the mouth, this is drinking beautifully right now. Drink 2022-2025- 92

2005 Buty ‘Conner Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This shows 14% alcohol on the label and comes off very fresh with starfruit, baking spices and French bread notes aromatically. The plate shows bright acidity and a soft texture. Beautifully evolved, this revels in its honeydew melon and baked apple flavors with shades of vanilla cream. Finishing long, this is outstanding wine to consume now. Drink 2022-2026- 92

2006 Buty ‘Conner Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from this warm vintage, like the 2005 bottling, this had roughly 10% new French oak prior to bottling. The palate is deep, concentrated and shows serious weight, with light salty undertones. Bright pear and roasted pineapple combine with baking spice dusted Challah bread. Unabashedly big, this shows more nutty and earthy nuances with more air. Drink this beauty now. Drink 2022-2025- 93

2006 Beast ‘Conner Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This shows bubbles in the glass, as this was entirely aged in stainless steel prior to bottling. This is extremely fresh and vibrant with a good degree of effervescence. Light pear and starfruit flavors mingle well with salty tones on the palate. Consume this over the next few years. Drink 2022-2024- 90

2007 Buty ‘Conner Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2007 Buty ‘Conner Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay comes from this vintage that saw a hot spring and June, and ideal conditions following. Nutty and earthy tones combine with shades of cinnamon and allspice on the nose. The palate shows a beautiful texture with walnut, baked Japanese pear and Challah bread notes. Drink now. Drink 2022-2025- 91

2008 Buty ‘Conner Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay-2008 saw near ideal conditions, as this Connor Lee Vineyard Chardonnay revealed bright acidity with light white flowers alongside cashew nut, sweetened gooseberry and Pink Lady apple notes. Forward and delicious, it is best to drink now. Drink 2022-2025- 91

2009 Buty ‘Conner Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay (1.5L)- 2009 also saw near ideal growing conditions, as this was an even growing seasons. Hazelnut and brioche notes fill the nose with ripe melon tones. The palate is utterly sensational with a lush texture and serious acid backbone. Bananas foster and vanilla cream notes combine with Pink Lady apple and nutty undertones. Texturally gorgeous, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next five years. Drink 2022-2027- 93

2011 Beast ‘Spring Creek Vineyard’ Semillon- This is sourced from a Yakima Valley that is now defunct. Bright pear and apple notes combine with stony understand not he nose. The palate is very fresh and vibrant with a soft texture and nutty undertones. Enjoy over the next few years. Drink 2022-2026- 90

Granville Wine Company

One of the outstanding newer Oregon producers of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Granville Wine Company has its roots deeply rooted in Oregon viticulture. Jackson and Ayala Holstein founded their winery paying homage to Jackson’s father who was a viticulturist. As a child Jackson spent time pruning vines and washing bins and didn’t fall in love with Oregon wine until college when he and his wife found their calling. They began making wine as a hobby and also worked at wineries and traveled to international wine growing regions. 

Wines from this vineyard are big and bold with great flavor density and sterling tension. I love the new 2019 Granville Wine Company ‘Spirit Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which has plenty of nerve and a soft texture.  Even better is the sinfully good  Granville Wine Company ‘Holstein Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which has remarkable flavor density from this vintage and surely will cellar well fora another fifteen plus years. Learn more about these great new wines at http://www.granvillewines.com Here are the new wine releases by Granville Wine Company.

2017 Granville Wine Company ‘Holstein Vineyard’ Blanc de Noir Sparkling Wine- Sourced from the acclaimed ‘Holstein Vineyard’ this was disgorged in September 2021 as this was made in the Brut Nature style. Fresh and nervy with plenty of finesse, this unveils green apple and kumquat tones alongside a silky mousse and good ripeness. Enjoy this beautiful new bottling over the next seven plus years. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2019 Granville Wine Company ‘Spirit Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from this Eola-Amity Hills vineyard this stunning new bottling reveals bright lemon zest and kumquat tones alongside honeydew melon and gobs of minerals on the palate. Rich and dense, with brioche undertones, and a lengthy finish, enjoy this outstanding new bottling over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 93

2019 Granville Wine Company ‘Koosah Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Located in the Eola-Amity Hills, the ‘Koosah Vineyard’ is located on a windswept crest at 700-1100′. The steeply-sloped, very rocky, 82.5-acre location has 44 acres planted.  The Chardonnay comes off very polished and rich with lemon blossom and orange rind flavors alongside salted Macadamia nut flavors and nothing short of a world-class, minute-long finish. What a stunning wine by Jackson Holstein that will surely survive for another ten plus years. Drink 2022-2034- 94

2019 Granville Wine Company ‘Eichler Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- A limited production Pinot Noir at 100 cases, the 2019 ‘Eichler Vineyard’ shows immediate appeal with stunning aromatic range from volcanic soils to red rose petals, orange rind and suggestions of wild mushroom. The palate is dense, full-bodied and downright voluptuous despite the challenges of the vintage. Rich red currants march on with blood orange zest, menthol and stony undertones. Complex and highly delicious to savor now, this will have a long life in front of it. Drink 2022-2036- 94

2019 Granville Wine Company ‘Holstein Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- For years the Holsteins had sold their fruit from this outstanding vineyard to Argyle, as I long admired these wines dating back to the stunning 2005 ‘Cowhouse’ bottling. The 2019 Granville Wine Company ‘Holstein Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is an impressive follow up to the unabashedly bold 2018 bottling. Seamlessly textured, this unveils ripe red cherry and cranberry flavors alongside copious minerals and freshly tilled soils, with black truffle crudo undertones on the palate. Seriously good to savor now, this will have another fifteen years to go in the cellar. Drink 2022-2036- 94

2019 Granville Wine Company ‘Louis’ Pinot Noir- Utilizing clonal selections 115, Holstein, 777, 667, the 2019 ‘Louis’ spent 11 months in barrel and underwent 25% whole cluster fermentation. On the nose this takes on beautiful potpourri tones alongside orange rind and tobacco leaf. The palate is dense and viscous with serious viscosity and tension that frame a deep core of red fruits and citrus ember tones. This gorgeous bottling will surely cellar well for another decade or more to come. Drink 2022-2036-  94

Boedecker Cellars

An urban Oregon winery, Boedecker dates back to 2003 with its founding by Athena Pappas and Stewart Boedecker. Stewart began making wine in 1992 while at Cornell University. In Oregon, he later volunteered in exchange for knowledge at several well-established Oregon wineries, enrolled in wine-making classes at UC Davis and Chemeketa CC and eventually founded Boedecker Cellars with Athena in 2003. Athena is a native Portlander who also studied wine-making at UC Davis and Chemeketa CC.

The new wines that I tasted came from the 2017 vintage which was a touch cooler than 2015, 2016 and 2018. The wines all showed good finesse. I loved the 2017 Boedecker ‘Stewart’ Pinot Noir (OB, 91) which was sourced from a host of outstanding vineyards in the Willamette Valley. Learn more about this great winery at boedeckercellars.com and here are my reviews of the new Boedecker wines. 

2017 Boedecker Cellars ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The  2017 Boedecker Cellars ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir shows off a soft mouthfeel with straightforward red cherry, red raspberry and damp earthy tones on the palate. Forward and juicy, enjoy in the short-term. Drink 2022-2028- 90

2017 Boedecker Cellars ‘Stewart’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Cherry Hill, Finnigan Hill, Hirschy, Shea and Stoller Vineyards, this 2017 Pinot Noir underwent 40% whole cluster fermentation. Red raspberry and pomegranate seed flavors mingle well with a soft mouthfeel and good sense of verve, with salty undertones. Enjoy this beautiful new Pinot Noir over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 91

Ridge Vineyards

One of the most electrifying California producers of Zinfandel, Ridge Vineyards is one of the great vineyards to visit, perched high in the Santa Cruz Mountains. This site is a boasts sweeping views that span across Silicon Valley. Ridge also has a great location in the Sonoma Valley to taste amongst the vineyards there. Founded by Paul Draper in the 1960s, their estate winery is set at 2,300 feet. Over the years the winery has received considerable prestige for their wines in historical terms, as Ridge Vineyard's 1971 Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon achieved international fame for its fifth-place finish in the 1976 “Judgement of Paris” wine tasting.

I love the new Ridge wines which are simply stunning across the board. Do not miss out on the sensational 2020 Ridge ‘Estate’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which is fresh, vibrant and shows sensational flavor density, improving after several hours of air. Look for their 2020 Ridge ‘Geyserville’ Red Wine (OB, 94) which deftly captures the art of blending and comes off velvety and soft, with some great cellaring potential. Learn more about this historic winery at ridgewine.com Here are the amazing new release wines from Ridge Vineyards.

2020 Ridge ‘Estate’ Chardonnay- The 2020 ‘Estate’ Chardonnay by Ridge was entirely sourced form the Monte Bello Estate Vineyard and definitely improves in terms of flavor density and flavor range after two hours of air. This Chardonnay exudes class with great aromatic range from buttered popcorn and ripe banana tones alongside Challah bread and suggestions of nectarine rind. The palate is very elegant and shows a Burgundian sense of finesse, with lovely salty undertones and a ripe core of melon and citrus fruits. Finishing very long, this outstanding new Chardonnay will be sure to cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 94

2020 Ridge ‘Geyserville’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Geyserville’ blends mostly Zinfandel (69%) with the remainder Carignane and Petite Sirah, with a splash of Alicante Boushet and Mataro added. Needing an hour in the decanter to be fully expressive, the nose comes off very pretty with red roses and ripe raspberry with bramble undercurrents and shades of black plum that all dazzle in the glass. Silky tannins frame a core of bright red fruits with baking spices bergamot and suggestions of persimmon. Finishing long, this a truly outstanding effort that is already showing beautifully and will be sure to satisfy over the next ten to twelve years. Drink 2022-2034- 94

2020 Ridge ‘East Bench’ Zinfandel- This 100% varietal bottling came from an exceedingly small crop and was harvested the first week of September. The nose is very appealing with its blood orange zest and wild strawberry tones alongside shades of wintergreen. The palate is very soft and approachable with bright acidity and red raspberry, pomegranate seed and sour red cherry flavors alongside this brilliant vein of tension. Just an infant now, this medium-bodied, well-structured Zin will surely cellar well for another ten years or more. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2020 Ridge ‘Paso Robles Dusi Ranch’ Zinfandel- Originally farmed by Benito Dusi, today Mike Dusi farms this old vine site that is well-known for high quality Zinfandel. This wine gets even better following a one hour decant. Bramble and red raspberry cordial mark the nose alongside suggestions of bay leaf and cherry tomato. The palate is fresh and energetic with a seamless texture and wonderful length. The concentration and finesse here is lovely. A complete wine, this is already beautifully evolved and will surely cellar well over the next twelve plus years. Drink 2022-2034- 94

2019 Ridge ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Entirely sourced from the famed Monte Bello Vineyard, the 2019 Ridge ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an outstanding value from this vintage that saw near ideal growing conditions. Graphite and wild blackberry compote mark the nose alongside shades of dark chocolate shavings and pipe tobacco. The palate is very fresh and refined with a soft mouthfeel and soft tannins. Ripe dark currants parade with espresso bean, and shades of chocolate cake on the palate. This is seriously good stuff to enjoy young but the 2019 ‘Estate’ has both the structure and stuffing to go fo another fifteen plus years. Drink 2022-2037- 93 

Elk Cove

More than ten years ago I was at a restaurant in Maui and ordered a bottle of Elk Cove Pinot Gris. This seemed like the perfect occasion for a refreshing wine and I fondly recall how satisfying the wine was with our seafood fare. For years I have enjoyed visiting this beautiful winery location perched high on a hill, with sweeping views of the Willamette Valley. An Oregon wine brand that has been synonymous with consistency, Elk Cove is a five generation family owned and run winery. Back in 1974 Elk Cove was founded after the Campbell family came across an overgrown homestead in the foothills of the Coast Range Mountains.

The five Campbell children helped work in the vineyards at Elk Cove as a family affair.  Adam Campbell took a special interest and stayed close to home for college, attending Lewis & Clark and spending summers on the bottling line. Upon graduation he joined the business year-round to learn the craft of winemaking from his parents. Adam is now responsible for making Elk Cove’s wines. He now oversees six vineyard sites with 380 planted acres. I loved the new wines across the board. The 2021 Elk Cove Pinot Blanc (OB, 92) is fresh and beautifully textured stuff that would pair with a literal cornucopia of foods. Do not miss the 2017 Elk Cove ‘La Boheme’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is deep and concentrated with beautiful red florals. Learn more about these outstanding wines at elkcove.com and here are my reviews of the new wines by Elk Cove.

2017 Elk Cove ‘Mount Richmond Brut’ Sparkling Wine- The really good 2017 Elk Cove ‘Mount Richmond Brut’ Sparkling Wine is a blend of mainly Pinot Noir (66%) with the remainder Chardonnay that saw three years in neutral oak prior to disgorgement. Ripe Japanese pear and cantaloupe, with salty undertones combine with a soft mousse and beautiful length on the palate. Really nice to enjoy now, this has some good aging potential based on both the weight and acidity. Drink 2022-2029- 91

2021 Elk Cove Pinot Blanc- The 2021 Elk Cove Pinot Blanc was sourced from vines aged up to 28 years as this was whole-cluster pressed and then aged in stainless steel tanks prior to bottling. Kiwi and starfruit tones collide with minerals and stony undertones on this downright delicious flavor profile. Nicely textured, this beautiful effort is best enjoyed over the next several years. Drink 2022-2027- 92

2021 Elk Cove Pinot Gris- The bright and well-balanced 2021 Pinot Gris by Elk Cove was sourced from their estate hillside vineyards, with some vines that date back to 1985. Aged in stainless steel, this unveils a soft mouthfeel with white grapefruit and honeydew melon flavors alongside shades of toasty brioche on the palate. Enjoy over the next few years while this beautiful freshness remains intact. Drink 2022-2026- 91

2019 Elk Cove ‘Five Mountain’ Pinot Noir- The delicious 2019 ‘Five Mountain’ Pinot Noir spent ten months in 20% new French oak prior to bottling, as this scenic vineyard was purchased by Elk Cove back in 2005 and has views of five volcanos in the Cascade Range. The earthy aromatics really impress, alongside a core of black raspberry and black tea. This comes off ripe and plump once on the mouth, with red rose water and black truffle accents, as the length and viscosity add depth. Complex and delicious to savor now, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next twelve plus years. Drink 2022-2034- 93

2019 Elk Cove ‘Clay Court’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 Elk Cove ‘Clay Court’ Pinot Noir is from vines set on a hillside in the Parrett Mountain region of the Chehalem Mountains AVA. The wine is crafted from Dijon clonal selections 115, 777 as well as Pommard clone Pinot Noir. A soft entry greets you with tart red fruits and citrus embers alongside shades of peat moss on the palate. Enjoy this great new wine over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2019 Elk Cove ‘La Boheme’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 Elk Cove ‘La Boheme’ is sourced from the La Boheme Vineyard which was planted with Estate Pommard plantings. The wine comes from vines aged 16-35 years, as this spent ten months in 32% new French oak prior to bottling in July 2020. Very fragrant with its red florals, the wine shows off Yakima cherry tones alongside loamy soils and shades of red currants aromatically. The palate is soft and round upon entry with beautiful red fruits that mingle with blood orange zest and stony/silty undertones. Finishing long, this beautiful wine will easily cellar well for another fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 94

Vinous Washington Report

Friends,

We have now released my first Washington Report for Vinous with over 1K wines reviewed. Please following link: https://vinous.com/articles/washington-waltzes-in-2018-slowly-marches-on-in-2019-mar-2022

Best wishes,

Owen

Pott Wines

One of the great talents of Napa, Aaron Pott built an illustrious winemaking resume as he took his studies at University of California, Davis, across the pond to Bordeaux, serving as winemaker at famed Right Bank house Château Troplong Mondot and later director of Château La Tour Figeac. Pott wanted to return to the Napa Valley and make world class Cabernet Sauvignon there, and served as Beringer’s “flying winemaker” making wine in France, Italy and Chile, later taking over as winemaker at St. Clement in 2001. Aaron then was honored to become winemaker at famed property Quintessa in 2004 which was the same year that he brilliantly purchased a 200 acre (5 acres planted) property on Mt. Veeder and began to develop their own vineyards. 2007 marked the birth of Pott Wines and as the first vintage of Incubo was created. The rest has been history as critics across the globe has lauded these beautiful wines. 

I loved these new wines, just as I did last year. First off, the 2020 Pott Wines ‘Twenty Meters’ Viognier (OB, 93) is serious, beautifully-textured Napa Viognier. I am totally enamored by the dense, yet very well-structured 2019 Pott Wines ‘Her Majesty’s Secret Service’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 98) which is named for the Bond film and is pure Cabernet class in a glass. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://www.pottwine.com/ Here are my tasting notes for the new Pott Wines. 

2020 Pott Wines ‘20M3’ Viognier- Sourced from their estate vineyard set on sandstone, the ‘Twenty Meters 3’ Viognier was stored in Italian terra cotta amphorae prior to bottling. The soft and inviting mouthfeel really entices, as honeysuckle, white peach and shades of wet stone all combine brilliantly — all leading to an exceedingly long finish. The weight and bright acidity suggests there is some great aging potential. Drink 2022-2028- 93

2019 Pott Wines ‘Space and Time’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Space and Time’ by Aaron Pott combines Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, unveiling red rose petals and garrigue notes alongside bright red currants, mocha and tar tones. The palate is soft and ripe with silky tannins that line a core of tobacco leaf, blackberry cobbler and espresso bean, with chocolate covered Bing cherry. Finishing long, this highly refined red blend has both the weight and balance to cellar well over the next two decades. Drink 2022-2040- 95

2019 Pott Wine ‘Her Majesty’s Secret Service’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This beautiful wine was sourced from the famed Stagecoach Vineyard high atop Pritchard Hill and set at roughly 1400 feet. This Weimer clone Cabernet Sauvignon was stored in Sylvain, Taransaud and Bossuet barrels prior to bottling. This revels in its creme de cassis, Turkish coffee and dark floral aromatics that bring you back to the glass for more enjoyment. The palate is dense and heady with beautifully refined tannins that frame a massive core of black and blue fruits, with loamy soils and graphite accents. Enjoy this scintillating new wine over the next twenty years. Drink 2022-2042- 98

2019 Pott Wines ‘Kaliholmanok’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Stunning and massive yet showing outstanding poise, the 2019 ‘Kaliholmanok’ Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from Spring Mountain. Anise and creme de violette tones mark the nose alongside rich black cherry cordial and loamy soil accents. Upon entry the soft tannins entice and frame ripe dark currants, roasted dates, creosote, creme de cassis and Arabica bean flavors. Finishing very long, this intense yet finesse-driven effort will be sure to entice over the next twenty plus years. Drink 2022-2042- 97

2019 Pott Wines ‘Incubo’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 ‘Incubo’ was sourced from Aaron Pott’s estate vineyard on Mt. Veeder which is set on weathered sandstone and shale. Just a dollop of Cabernet Franc (2%) is added to this wine, which is displaying a dizzying array of aromatics once in the glass. Asian spices march on with black currants, ripe figs and shades of milk chocolate all meld in the glass. The palate is fresh and viscous with serious terroir. Finishing very long this is a sensational, one of a kind, effort that shows the stony and silty undertones of the soils, but comes off very viscous and at the same time light on its feet. Drink 2022-2042- 98

Resonance

One of the great talents of Burgundy, Maison Louis Jadot was founded back in 1859. In 2013 Jadot purchased the old vine Résonance Vineyard, in the Yamhill-Carlton wine region. The vineyard was first planted in 1981 and is one of the older plantings of Pinot Noir in this AVA. The Résonance project was first led by eminent Jadot Winemaker, Jacques Lardière who has crafted Pinot Noir in Burgundy for 42 years. He works closely with winemaker Guillaume Large has been at Resonance since 2017.

I was really impressed with the new wines by Resonance that come from the 2019 vintage which saw very difficult conditions at harvest. Lardiere has deftly managed this vintage, as the wine show good structure but also very good flavor density. I loved the 2019 Resonance ‘Decouverte Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is placed with flavor and shows brilliant length. Just as good is the deep and powerful 2019 Resonance ‘Resonance Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93), as I love the range of flavors at play here. Here are my reviews of the beautiful new wines by Resonance. 

2019 Resonance ‘Decouverte Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This seriously good 2019 Dundee Hills Chardonnay bottling reveals Meyer lemon zest dusted brioche and salty soil notes aromatically alongside shades of toasted hazelnuts. The palate is refined and soft, showing a good sense of tension and richness. Layers of vanilla cream and Challah bread combine with banana and Pink Lady apple. Finishing long, this brilliant wine will shine on for another twelve plus years. Drink 2021-20233- 93

2019 Resonance ‘Decouverte Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2019 Resonance ‘Decouverte Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a complex bottling that is really needing an hour in the decanter prior to enjoying. Beautiful red florals greet you aromatically, with freshly tilled soils, cigar ash and shades of smoldering stones with sour red fruits. The wine shows a seamless texture with outstanding verve, as red cherry and pomegranate seed tones combine with citrus embers and shades of garrigue. Beautiful to savor now, enjoy this great wine over the next fifteen years. Drink 2021-2036- 93

2019 Resonance ‘Resonance Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The brilliant 2019 Resonance ‘Resonance Vineyard’ Pinot Noir saw 30% new French oak for eighteen months before bottling in March 2021. The palate is very well-balanced with good finesse and layers of red currants with wintergreen, damp rocks, nori and hints of rose water. Complex and quite earthy, yet still showing good stuffing, savor this over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2021-2036- 93

Quilceda Creek Hires Mark Kaigas As New Winemaker

We have some breaking news this Friday evening as I have learned from Quilceda Creek director of winemaking, Paul Golitzin, that Mark Kaigas has been hired as new winemaker. Mark comes from very serious pedigree having formerly been associate winemaker at Colgin. Golitzin explained “We are very excited to have him on board after searching for the perfect fit to our program and culture.”

This is going to be a really interesting new development in Washinngton wine, as one from one of Napa's finest producers of Cabernet Sauvignon has moved northwards to craft Washington Cabernet Sauvignon. Huge congrats to the Quilceda Creek team on their new hire!

Beaux Frères 'The Beaux Frères Vineyard' Pinot Noir Vertical Tasting

One of the illustrious Oregon estates located in the Ribbon Ridge AVA, Beaux Frères was founded by Michael Etzel more than twenty years ago. While on vacation in 1986 Michael came across an 88 acre pig farm and after some consideration he decided to purchase the land with his brother in law, Robert Parker — and the rest became Oregon wine history. Michael focused on his job as vineyard manager by planting Pinot Noir in the Ribbon Ridge AVA and while planting his vineyard he interned at Ponzi Winery. In 1990, He harvested his first estate fruit and sold the grapes winemakers Ken Wright and Dick Ponzi. Michael decided there was something special with his vineyard and began making focused, mineral-driven Pinot Noirs from this special site. The wines were subsequently reviewed with incredible acclaim. 

Over the years I have had the chance to sample these beautiful wines and have been incredibly impressed with their overall quality and purity of red fruit character. There is also a continuous vein of pretty red floral character that runs through these wines. Over the years I have had a chance to sample some of the great examples of these, including more recently vintages 2002 as well as 2005. Today Michael’s son, Mike Etzel, serves as head winemaker. My good friend and Oregon wine collector, Jason Wehling, graciously shared some of his Beaux Frères wines with me a week ago, as we tasted wines from the 2001, 2005 and 2008 vintages together. 

2001 is somewhat of an overlooked vintage with 2002 being arguably the best vintage of the decade. 2001 saw moderate temperatures, with no heat spikes, throughout the growing season, with a touch of rain prior to harvest, which led to wines that showed good balance, but maybe not embodying the depth and concentration of 2002. The 2005 vintage was known for cooler temperatures throughout the growing season, as well as a wet spring that caused some bloom issues. Pinot Noirs were typically more classically styled, with lower alcohol, as I saw this vintage as a producer vintage and thought at the time of release that the top producers performed really well. 2008 on the other hand was a goldilocks vintage of sorts, producing wines with immense aging potential that certainly needed some time to get out of the starting blocks. Upon release these wines were very well-structured, with good tannin quality and finesse, but really needed some time to find themselves in terms of flavor development. The vintage saw very moderate growing conditions with a harvest that extended into late October.

Tasting through these wines I was immediately surprised with how the 2001 Beaux Frères ‘The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) had held. This was an utterly sensational wine that was immediately gratifying once in the glass. This wine is now getting into the exciting tertiary realm of earthy undertones, so I would open this beauty now. I won’t lie that the 2005 Beaux Frères ‘The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 99) is quite possibly the finest Oregon wine that I have ever tasted. This wine was simply mesmerizing in the glass, as we quite simply could not believe what we were tasting, with head-turning depth, complexity, finesse and flavor range. Over the next hour the wine became even more mind-bending and pretty, with serious verve intact. What an utterly fabulous wine that I will not soon forget. Learn more about this great historic Oregon estate at https://www.beauxfreres.com/ Here are my tasting notes from what was a night to remember, tasting vintages 2001, 2005 and 2008 of ‘The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir. 

2001 Beaux Frères ‘The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The astonishingly good 2001 ‘The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir reveals a remarkable level of freshness considering its age. Once on the nose this takes on generous Yakima cherry and red raspberry notes laced with baking spices. Light tannins frame a core of tangerine zest with bright red fruits alongside wet stone, peat moss and suggestions of bergamot. Showing considerable finesse, this beautiful Pinot Noir is peaking now so consume sometime soon. Drink 2022-2025- 95

2005 Beaux Frères ‘The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Now at nearly twenty years of age, the scintillating 2005 The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is truly one of the finest examples of Oregon Pinot Noir that I have ever consumed. Immediately gratifying once in the glass, the bouquet is nothing short of intoxicating, revealing the very classic Beaux Frères red rose petal tones alongside tremendous nerve and concentration. With more air the wine revels in shades of Nori, black truffle and cran-pomegranate flavors, alongside suggestions of menthol, flint and garrigue. This sinfully good Pinot Noir comes exceedingly close to perfection in a bottle. Absolutely singing its high octave now, this has at least another decade of life in front of it. Drink 2022-2032- 99

2008 Beaux Frères ‘The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Needing an hour in the decanter to fully come together, the 2008 Beaux Frères ‘The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a wine that showcases this very classic and age-worthy Oregon vintage. Once aroused this slowly unveils layers of cranberry and peat moss alongside cardamom and forest floor accents that take shape in the glass. The flavor density expressed is absolutely marvelous particularly after extended air time. Silky soft once on the mouth, with refined tannins, the Pinot Noir displays good verve alongside layers of damp basement, orange peel, black raspberry and shades of white truffle. With brilliant length and viscosity, this surely has both the astringency and stuffing to savor over the next ten to twelve years. Drink 2022-2034- 95

Mayacamas Vineyards

A winery dating back to the nineteenth century, Mayacamas Vineyards is one of Napa’s great historic wineries that is known for a very old-world approach in winemaking. The history of this winery is constantly at work as many of their ageing vessels are large format foudrés, some of which have been in constant use in the Mayacamas cellar since the 1920’s. This commitment to large cask ageing is central to the unique style of Mayacamas wine, especially Cabernet Sauvignon.

It is incredible that grapes have been planted on the Mayacamas property since the late 19th century, at elevations of up to 2400 feet above the Valley floor. This estate is known for its mountaintop vineyards for tiny yields of very concentrated mountain grapes. The Taylors, who owned the Estate from 1941 until 1968, were the first to plant Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon vines – still the focus of the Mayacamas production today.

Starting in 2013 much of the vines were replanted as this site focuses on dry farming techniques. I loved the two new releases by Mayacamas, including their very old world style 2020 Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is fresh and concentrated with a downright killer finish. Learn more about this outstanding Napa producer at https://www.mayacamas.com/ and here are the great new releases by Mayacamas.

2020 Mayacamas Chardonnay- The delicious 2020 Mayacamas Chardonnay was harvested very early in mid-August, and was then whole cluster pressed and fermented. Stored in neutral oak barrel, puncheon, and foudre prior to bottling this exudes class with Meyer lemon zest, stony minerals and shades of sourdough bread with crushed wet rock. This is very Chablis vs. Napa. Drink 2022-2032- 93

2019 Mayacamas Merlot- Sourced from older Mt. Veeder plantings, the 2019 Mayacamas Merlot delivers dusty soils alongside black currant candy and shades of espresso bean on the nose. The palate is soft and seamless with silky tannins that frame a core of ripe dark fruits with Black Forest cake flavors. With good verve and viscosity, this is sure to cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 93

Benton-Lane

Benton-Lane founders Steve and Carol Girard were longtime Pinot Noir lovers who finally decided on a 12 mile long area on the foothills of the Willamette Valley Coast Range. This is where they discovered Sunnymount Ranch, an old sheep ranch near the village of Monroe. Sunnymount Ranch had gotten its name over 100 years ago due to Prairie Peak to the west that protected the ranch from winter storms. The land sloped gently to the east so potential vines could catch the morning sun. The ranch was above the valley fog but below the windy hill tops. 

The ranch is set on Jory soil, and was centered in the middle of Willamette Valley where milder weather allowed earlier ripening and more consistent high quality for grape vines. They purchased the 1,860 acre property in 1988 and planting of Pinot Noir commenced the next year. Steve and Carol’s first Benton-Lane wine was produced in 1991, which their friends and family helped consume. Benton-Lane’s first vintage was 1992 which was custom produced at another local winery. Their vineyard now has 142 acres planted to Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay and they recently have new ownership.

I recently had the chance to review their new release wines and was highly impressed. Check out their delicious 2019 Benton-Lane ‘First Class’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which is dense and fresh with a lovely finish. Learn more about the Benton Lane story at https://benton-lane.com Here are the great new releases by Benton Lane. 

2019 Benton-Lane ‘First Class’ Chardonnay- Sourced from the Benton-Lane Estate Vineyard, this was aged in 28% new French oak for ten months prior to bottling in August 2020. The resultant wine shows off a lush sense of mouthfeel, as honeydew melon and lime zest tones combine with toasty brioche and vanilla cream on the palate. Seriously good now, enjoy this generous style of Willamette Valley Chardonnay over the next ten years. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2019 Benton-Lane Pinot Noir- The 2019 Benton-Lane Pinot Noir saw 18% new French oak for ten months before bottling. Medium-bodied red fruits march on with blood orange zest and shades of forest floor on the palate. Enjoy now. Drink 2022-2027- 90

2019 Benton-Lane ‘First Class’ Pinot Noir- The nicely concentrated ‘First Class’ Pinot Noir saw considerably more new French oak (36%) and then another twelve months in the bottle before release. The finesse is really excellent as medium-bodied tar and cran-pomegranate tones combine with baking spices and salty undertones on the palate. This will easily cellar well for another decade. Drink 2022-2032- 91

EFESTĒ 'Big Papa' Cabernet Sauvignon Vertical Tasting

Stare into the eyes of EFESTĒ founder Daniel Ferelli and no doubt you’ll receive a smile back. ‘Big Papa’ as Daniel is fondly known as, founded EFESTĒ back in 2001. Daniel’s father, the original ‘Big Papa’ faced many challenges living in Chicago during the Great Depression and prohibition. His family sold jug wine out of their brownstone basement just to get by. Over the years, even when Daniel and Helen were running their own business and raising thr ee children, Daniel always maintained the yearly tradition of making wine with his grandfather’s old wine press. His winemaking partners included his son-in-law and EFESTĒ partner, Kevin Taylor.Finally in 2001, Daniel and Kevin started a new tradition of bottling and labeling their garage wine. With state of the art wine making equipment EFESTĒ winery was born.

For years I have admired the ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon which has been consistently the top wine of their program. Sitting down with winemaker Mark Fiore he talked about he he has adapted the ‘Big Papa’ program, starting with the 2019 vintage, as this wine is now only sourced from the Bacchus, Sagemoor and Dionysus Vineyards. “Quality and simplicity was why we did this. We have a Red Mountain Cabernet and I don’t need to mix Red Mountain into everything. We wanted more focus with this program,” he said.

Yesterday we sat across from each other and tasted through the 2014-2021 vintages of this wine. The 2020 and 2021 editions are still in barrel but are showing really nicely. While more translucent in color, they have really good stuffing and 2021 is already showing serious flavor density. Out of the bottled wines, I loved the 2014 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ (OB, 94) which is quite dense and perfumed, with serious aging potential. This wine is drinking right in its sweet spot right now. The same is true with the 2016 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ (OB, 94) which is very soft upon entry and don’t be afraid to open this beauty if you have a few stashed away. Just as good was the sensational 2018 ‘Big Papa’ (OB, 94) which is dense and chewy with gorgeous non-fruit flavors and a long finish. Learn more about this great Woodinville winery at efeste.com and here are my reviews of the 2014-2021 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon. 

2014 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This 2014 edition of ‘Big Papa’ came from the Bacchus, Kiona, Klipsun, Sagemoor and Red Willow Vineyards. Deep and brooding in the glass, this offers intense dark fruits on the nose with tar, tobacco leaf and shades of black truffle. The secondary notes here are really exceptional, as are the black floral tones. The palate is deep and dense with refined tannins that hold in place a core of black raspberry, cardamom dusted blackberry, coffee grounds and tar notes. This is a delight to savor right now, so why wait? Drink 2022-2030- 94

2015 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2015 ‘Big Papa’ was sourced from the Bacchus, Angelas, Kiona, Klipsun, Sagemoor and Red Willow Vineyards. The wine comes off a touch hot but shows good flavor density with blackberry liquor and baking spices that collide with shades of mocha and tar. Enjoy this over the next few years as I don’t see the wine improving. Drink 2022-2026- 91

2016 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This is now the second time this year that I have opened the 2016 EFESTE ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon, the first being from my personal collection. Heady and densely colored in the glass, this unveils rich red and dark fruits with roasted figs, baking spices and shades of milk chocolate. The palate is soft and generous with good length. Rich cassis and anise tones combine with salty undertones the palate with shades of creosote. No need to wait on this beauty. Drink 2022-2028- 94

2017 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Big Papa’ is a seamless wine that is really coming into its own. Sagebrush and black cherry cordial tones combine with shades of espresso bean on the nose. The palate is dense and inviting with a silky texture. Baking spices and Black Forest Cake flavors collide with lighter earthy undertones with refined tannins holding everything together neatly. This is already beautifully evolved. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2018 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- 2018 was Mark Fiore’s first full vintage making wine for EFESTĒ, as this was sourced from Bacchus, Sagemoor, Klipsun and Kiona Vineyards. Aged in roughly 60% new French oak, this delivers ripe black currant flavors alongside tar, tobacco leaf and dark chocolate shavings with scorched earth undertones on the palate. Finishing very long, this is really good to enjoy right now, but will also cellar well over the next twelve years. Drink 2022-2034- 94

2019 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This is now the second time in the past few months that I have tasted the 2019 ‘Big Papa.’ Herbal undertones mark the nose alongside black currants and chocolate combine on the palate. With a seamless texture and great length, this is drinking brilliantly already at the three year mark. Drink 2022-2034- 93

2020 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon-  BARREL SAMPLE 92-94

2021 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- BARREL SAMPLE 92-94

Ponzi Vineyards

One of the historic sites fo Pinot Noir in Oregon, it was back in 1960s when Dick and Nancy Ponzi moved their young family to the Willamette Valley on a mission to make top notch Pinot Noir. After many research trips to Burgundy and an extensive search for the ideal location, they purchased 20 acres on a small farm just southwest of Portland, Oregon. There were only a few other farmers growing Pinot Noir back then but Dick and Nancy saw the potential for the varietal in the Northern Willamette Valley. Truly one of the historic producers of Oregon Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Ponzi Vineyards is now under their second generation with President and Director of Sales and Marketing, Anna Maria Ponzi and Winemaker Luisa Ponzi.

For years I have been impressed with the consistency of these wines and I was very impressed with last years efforts. The new wines that I tasted come from the 2018 vintage and were beautiful across the board. Their 2018 wines have structure, body and really excellent flavor density.

I love the 2018 Ponzi ‘Laurelwood District’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is dense and fresh with a silky texture. Unbelievably good even right now, the 2018 Ponzi ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) is a barrel select wine that brilliantly captures the warmth of the vintage. This is a big and brash style of Pinot Noir that is also brilliantly nervy, with really good flavor range. This killer Pinot Noir will be sure to cellar well for decades to come. Learn more about these outstanding wines at ponzivineyards.com. Here are the great new wines by Ponzi. 

2018 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Laurelwood District’ Chardonnay- Seriously good, displaying plenty of ripeness from this warm vintage, the 2018 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Laurelwood District’ Chardonnay revels in its buttered brioche and Japanese pear tones that combine with bright minerals and lemon meringue undertones. Full-bodied and delicious, consume this beauty over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 93

2018 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Laurelwood District’ Pinot Noir- A beautiful new wine by winemaker Luisa Ponzi, the 2018 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Laurelwood District’ Pinot Noir is sourced from higher elevation sites, set on both windblown and Jory soils. The nose is beautifully perfumed with red rose petals and red cherry preserves alongside a dusting of freshly tilled soils. The palate shows really nice texture and finesse, finishing long with bright red fruits, citrus embers and toasty oak. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2018 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir- Definitely not for the weary, the 2018 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir is a decadent, warm vintage effort that is built to age. Once on the nose this takes on layers of loganberry preserves alongside Yakima cherry, tobacco leaf and shades of tar with baking spices. You have to admire the flavor range with its red and dark fruit profile, alongside citrus blossom, salty, loamy soils and a faint smoldering stoney accent. This comes off very and unveils a luxurious texture, with plenty of mouth-watering acidity and excellent length, adding to the crescendo. Glorious to consume in its full-throttle youth, the 2018 ‘Reserve’ is sure to satisfy over the next twenty years. Drink 2022-2040- 95

Evening Land

One of the outstanding producers in the Willamette Valley, Evening Land has helped the region achieve national fame with their famed Chardonnay wines. Their iconic Seven Springs Vineyard produces some of the great Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay bottlings of Oregon. First planted in 1984, the Seven Springs Vineyard is one of the great historic vineyards in the Pacific Northwest. Planted with eastern exposure, Seven Springs Vineyard fruit experiences an abundance of morning sunlight and also experiences cool breezes in from the Pacific Ocean through the Van Duzer Corridor. The combination of heat and cool breezes affords the fruit to slowly ripen. Celebrity somm, Rajat Parr and Sasha Moorman head the winemaking team at Evening Land. They form what is truly one of the best teams in the state.

This winery has a scenic location that is a must visit for any serious collector of Oregon Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. An amazing effort, the 2019 Evening Land ‘Seven Springs’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) is downright killer wine for the price. This has beautiful range and is already drinking marvelously, with serious tension. The best wine that I sampled was the dazzling 2019 Evening Land ‘Summum’ Chardonnay (OB, 96) which is up thee with the best Oregon Chardonnay that I have sampled this past year. Learn more about Evening Land at https://www.eveninglandvineyards.com Here are the amazing new release wines by Evening Land.

2016 Evening Land ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine- A rich, golden hue, the gorgeous zero dosage 2016 ‘Blanc de Blancs’ is a glorious, warm vintage offering with tons of finesse, with good richness and intensity. Lemon rind, with salted brioche and gooseberry tones mingle on the palate. Highly enjoyable now, savor this for another decade. Drink 2022-2032-91

2019 Evening Land ‘Seven Springs’ Chardonnay- A really outstanding value, the 2019 ‘Seven Springs’ Chardonnay by Evening Land delivers plenty of finesse with bright pear, gooseberry and melon flavors alongside the beam of tension and salty accents. Enjoy over the next seven plus years. Drink 2022-2029- 92

2019 Evening Land ‘La Source’ Chardonnay-Sourced from the iron-rich and stony portion of the vineyard, the glorious 2019 ‘La Source’ Chardonnay weighs in at a mere 12.9% alcohol, as this was stored in Austrian puncheons before bottling. The palate is wonderfully flinty with bright pear and citrus zest flavors alongside suggestions of white rose water, and lighter dried mango notes. Finishing exceedingly long, this complex, mineral-laden, bottling will surely survive for another fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 94

2019 Evening Land ‘Summum’ Chardonnay- Brilliantly colored once in the glass, the heady yet highly nervy 2019 Evening Land ‘Summum’ Chardonnay is a stunning wine that will surely get better with some time in the bottle. Aged for 12 months in Austrian puncheons, this barrel-select wine reveals gunpowder and wet stone on the nose, alongside ripe Japanese pear and lemon blossom tones that seamlessly meld in the glass. The palate shows a dense mouthfeel, with loads of tension alongside an unctuous, oily texture. Finishing exceedingly long, this beautiful new wine will surely satisfy for another two decades to come. Drink 2022-2042- 96

2019 Evening Land ‘La Source’ Pinot Noir-The seriously good  2019 Evening Land ‘La Source’ Pinot Noir is sourced from Dijon clone Pinot Noir that are set in shallow, rocky soils. Smoldering volcanic stones and crushed cranberry with red rose petal florals all come together marvelously on the nose.The palate is very soft and refined with silky tannins that line a beautiful core of tart red fruits with citrus rind and stony undercurrents. Finishing very long, this is elegant and refined Oregon Pinot Noir that is built to age. Drink 2022-2037- 93

2019 Evening Land ‘Summum’ Pinot Noir- The sensational 2019 ‘Summum’ Pinot Noir is a densely packed and tightly wound animal that really needs a two hour decant prior to being consumed. Once aroused this slowly unveils layers of pomegranate seed, citrus embers, toasty oak and boysenberry cordial alongside suggestions of white truffle on the palate. Even more bold than the ‘La Source’ this generous and broad-shouldered effort, particularly considering the vintage, has both the weight and finesse to live on for several decades to come. Drink 2022-2042- 95

Leclerc Briant

I admire the range of boutique producers in Champagne. Lucien Leclerc founded the winery with four hectares of vineyards in Cumières in 1872. The business moved to Épernay in 1955 when Bertrand Leclerc married Jacqueline Briant and formed the négociant firm which still carries their name.

Leclerc Briant began its organic practices beginning in the 1960’s and helped pioneer the idea behind single-vineyard Champagne beginning in the 1970’s. Fifth generation vigneron, Pascal Leclerc began following biodynamic principles in 1988, with part of the production Demeter certified since 2003. Today, enologist Hervé Jestin serves as vigneron.

La Croisette is the home vineyard of Leclerc Briant, a 0.6 -hectare plot adjacent to the winery in Épernay, planted in 1966 to Chardonnay. Remarkably, this vineyard has never been treated with herbicides or pesticides. The remaining 9.6 hectares of vineyard are spread between the Premier Cru villages of Cumières, Hautvillers, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Bisseuil in the Vallée de la Marne, Villers-Allerand and Rilly la Montagne in Montagne de Reims and in the Grand Cru villages of Cramant and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger in the Côte des Blancs. 

I greatly admired the new Champagnes by Hervé Jestin, who has been at the helm since 2008. His NV ‘Premier Cru Extra Brut’ Champagne (OB, 92) is a gorgeous blend of mostly Pinot Noir thats comes off big and round with a plump sense of mouthfeel and wonderful tension. The best wine I sampled is the seriously good and novel, 100% Chardonnay 2015 Leclerc Briant ‘Zero Dosage La Croisette’ Champagne (OB,95), displaying dazzling minerality and gobs of citrus oil and salty flavors. This generous Champagne will live on for another twenty years.  Learn more about this great house in Champagne at http://leclercbriant.fr and here are my new reviews of the latest releases from Leclerc Briant. 

NV Leclerc Briant ‘Reserve Brut’ Champagne- Given 4.5 G/L dosage, the Leclerc Briant ‘Reserve Brut’ Champagne was disgorged in April 2021. Biscuit and Shitaake mushrooms combine with pink grapefruit blossom on this beautifully fragrant nose. Fresh and racy, this delivers Key lime zest and ginger flavors alongside a good sense of astringency and salty undertones on the palate. Enjoy this refined style of Brut Champagne over the next seven years. Drink 2022-2029- 90

NV Leclerc Briant ‘Premier Cru Extra Brut’ Champagne- The gorgeous Leclerc Briant ‘Premier Cru Extra Brut’ Champagne is an elegant blend of 70% Pinot Noir with equal parts Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, with the base vintage being 2015. Disgorged in May 2021, this reveals roasted hazelnut with lemon zest dusted brioche aromatics that all dance in unison. The palate is polished with a silky mousse, displaying refined bubbles with ripe citrus fruits, marzipan and hints of guava. The dense sense of mouthfeel adds to the enjoyment as this is best enjoyed over the next ten years. Drink 2022-2032- 92

NV Leclerc Briant ‘Brut Rose’ Champagne- The NV Leclerc Briant ‘Brut Rose’ Champagne comes out of the bottle revealing a deep salmon hue. Very fine bubbles greet you in this 4.5G/L dosage Rose, with 2017 as its base vintage. Kumquat peel, sour red raspberry and pomegranate seed flavors that mingle with saline drenched pear on the palate. Enjoy this fresh and invigorating style of Rose over the next seven plus years. Drink 2022-2029- 91

2014 Leclerc Briant ‘Extra Brut’ Champagne- Focused and showing good weight from the vintage, the 2014 Leclerc Briant ‘Extra Brut’ Champagne offers plenty of ripe pear and brioche tones alongside shades of candied ginger and lighter white flowers. The smooth mousse and downright awesome texture to the wine both accentuate this refined style of vintage Champagne. Drink 2022-2036- 93

2015 Leclerc Briant ‘Zero Dosage La Croisette’ Champagne- The top wine out of this lineup, the brilliant 2015 Leclerc Briant ‘Zero Dosage’ Champagne is crafted from a 1.5 acre vineyard set on clay and loamy soils, adjacent the winery in Épernay. “La Croisette" is the name of a little pathway near the winery that overlooks Épernay as this 100% Chardonnay Champagne was aged in 10 months in a combination of oak barrels and terra cotta eggs, and then minimum of 24 to 36 months sur lattes. Dense orchard and melon fruits greet you aromatically, with salty soils and shades of white rose water. The palate is concentrated and intense with gobs of white grapefruit oil, salted sourdough bread and ripe Japanese pear flavors that combine with nutty undertones. Complex and very delicious now, this has both the weight and finesse to cellar well over the next two decades. Drink 2022-2040- 95

Chateau de Beaucastel

I think every wine lover remembers their first bottle of Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape. For me, I fondly recall the 1998 Chateau de Beaucastel. This is a wine that typically pairs so well with food due to its inherent balance —and is best enjoyed with fellow wine loving friends.

The region of Chateauneuf du Pape dates back to the 11th century historical records. The town of Avignon in this region was the previous site of the papacy, following a Roman invasion. Bertrand de Got, archbishop of Bordeaux, was elected pope in 1305, and took the name of Clement V as he transferred the papacy from Rome to Avignon in 1309. The register of pontifical letters reveals that Clement V visited Châteauneuf on several occasions, at times for many months.

Wine had a serious effect in this region before the arrival of the papacy but there are no actual historical records of wine or vineyards prior to this time. We do know that most of the wine grown in this region prior to the 18th century was drunk within a year, which was true to the cultural times. It wasn’t until 1923 when local wine producers led the way to have their wines classified as Châteauneuf-du-Pape Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) was formed.

The famed Chateau de Beaucastel is named after the Beaucastel family which lived in this region in the 16th century. Amazingly we can find records that show a Pierre de Beaucastel buying a barn and some associated land at Coudoulet in 1549, and this land is still part of Château de Beaucastel's holdings. In the 19th century, when the Phylloxera epidemic struck the region, the owner decided not to replant the vineyards but rather to sell the property. In 1909, it was bought by Pierre Tramier, and the vineyards were rebuilt under his ownership. After him, his son-in-law Pierre Perrin took over management and expanded Château de Beaucastel's vineyard holdings considerably. The property has stayed in the Perrin family since.

I have been very fortunate over the past few years to taste several older bottles of Chateau de Beaucastel. It is incredible how these wines evolve so gracefully. Chateau de Beaucastel is one of the few wineries that uses 13 different Rhone varietals in its Châteauneuf du Pape, and typically uses a high proportion of Mourvèdre. 

I adored the new 2019 Chateau de Beaucastel (OB, 98) which is one of the finest editions of this wine in current memory. Everything is working perfectly in unison here, as this is heady, yet very well-balanced, with incredible poise and weight. This wine will easily cellar for another twenty years. Learn more about this famed estate at http://www.beaucastel.com Here is the gorgeous 2019 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape. 

2019 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape- The utterly stunning, wow-factor 2019 Chateau de Beaucastel is a glorious effort from this great vintage in the Southern Rhone. Linzer torte with Yakima cherry, blood orange zest and wet stone tones all seamlessly come together aromatically. The palate is deep, concentrated and sinfully good. Dense red fruits combine with salted rocks, citrus rind and shades of Hoisin sauce on the palate. Flamboyant in its fabulous youth, this stunning wine will surely live on for another twenty years. Drink 2022-2042- 98

Champagne Delamotte

It is not often you equate champagne with value. One of the great producers that also offers insanely good value, Champagne Delamotte is located in the heart of the Cote de Blancs and is the sister winery of famed house Champagne Salon. This historic house dates back to the 1760s and sources from some of the great vineyards in Champagne, including those located in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize and Oger, as well as the Cote des Blancs, marvelously highlight world class Chardonnay. I’ve been enchanted by these wines for many years. Didier Depond serves as general manager for Delamotte as well as for Salon. Like Salon, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay grapes for Delamotte are sourced from Grand Cru-rated vineyards. The Delamotte range of wines offers more approachability, than those made at Salon — but also share some really good cellaring potential.

I adored all of the new releases by Delamotte including their gorgeous NV ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Champagne (OB, 93) which is dense and plush with plenty of weight and gorgeous chalky mineral tones. I was enamored by the sinfully good 2014 Delamotte ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Champagne (OB, 95) which is a rich and layered style that is built for aging. Find out more about this historic Champagne house at https://www.champagne-delamotte.com/en/ Here are the gorgeous new wines by Champagne Delamotte.

NV Delamotte Brut Champagne- This great NV Brut was vilified in stainless steel and given 8G/L dosage as the base comes from the 2017 vintage (85%). Disgorged in early 2021, this unveils biscuit tones alongside baked apple and saline drenched pear. The palate shows a soft mousse with a plush mouthfeel. Plenty of orchard and citrus fruits combine with stony minerals on the palate. Drink 2022-2028- 92

NV Delamotte Rose Champagne- Unlike the NV Brut, the NV Rose utilizes the 2018 vintage as a base which is done to preserve more freshness, given 7G/L dosage. Made from 80% Pinot Noir with 20% Chardonnay (from Le Mesnil), this shows off hazelnut tones alongside very pretty red fruits and shades of blood orange zest. The palate is very refined and delicate, with red raspberry alongside wet stone and salty undercurrents. Drink 2022-2029- 92

NV Delamotte ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Champagne- This 100% Chardonnay was sourced from four villages with a base from the 2016 vintage, with the remainder from the 2014 and 2015 vintages. Vinified in stainless steel, this then was aged for four years and was given 7G/L. Salted nuts with brioche and shades of Japanese pear all combine aromatically. The palate is soft and round with a seamless texture and lengthy chalky finish. This is remarkably good for the price. Drink 2021-2031-  93

2014 Delamotte ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Champagne- The 2014 ‘Blanc de Blancs’ by Delamotte is a broad-shouldered Chardonnay wine, as this was not made in the 2013 vintage. Disgorged in June 2021, with 6.5G/L, the wine sourced from six villages in the Cote de Blancs. Once on the nose this takes on layers of marzipan with gooseberry, green papaya and suggestions of pastry crust. The combination of weight and tension here is really exceptional, as this seamlessly glides across the mid-palate. Bright and deeply concentrated, this generous style of Blanc de Blancs will surely live on for another fifteen years or more. Drink 2022-2038- 95

Louis Roederer 'Cristal' Champagne

Happy Valentine’s Day to you all! For those who know me, there is very little doubt that I love top champagne. I had a glorious visit to Louis Roederer in January and had a chance to visit their gorgeous new lineup of wines. Louis Roederer only produces their ‘Cristal’ Champagne in specific vintages that work for their style. The first ‘Cristal’ Champagne was created back in 1876 to satisfy the demanding tastes of Tsar Alexander II. The emperor asked Louis Roederer to reserve the House’s best cuvée for him every year as he was fond of Louis Roederer’s style. This Champagne was initially distinguished by being presented in a flat-bottomed, transparent lead-crystal bottle. The ‘Cristal’ brand was named after the lead-crystal bottle, which is particularly transparent and luminous. 

‘Cristal’ Champagne blending is typically around 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir, although that varies on the vintage. Cristal is aged for 6 years in Louis Roederer’s cellars and then left for a further 8 months after dégorgement. The ‘Cristal’ Rose Champagne is always composed of estate fruit and the wine is primarily fermented and aged in steel, but roughly 15-20% of the blend is aged in oak. Their cellar master has been slowly lowering dosage to 8-9 g/l. 

I have been impressed with the 2014 champagnes that I have tasted. The best that I have had so far is this sensational new 2014 ‘Cristal’ (OB, 97) which is a more dense style somewhat more akin to their 2006 or 2009 bottling. The wine shows insanely good texture and weight with its signature soft mousse and refined bubbles. This is champagne that can benefit from 20-30 minutes in the decanter, unlike the 2013 edition which marches right out of the gate. Learn more about this great Champagne at http://www.louis-roederer.com/en/wine/cristal

2014 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Champagne- The dense and intense 2014 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Champagne is a stunning, riper style of ‘Cristal’ that more closely mirrors the 2006 or 2009 editions of this wine. Once on the nose this exudes class with salted lemon peel, kumquat and suggestions of cardamom dusted brioche. Very refined bubbles greet you, as salted cashew, Key lime, and melon fruits with hints of white truffle all brilliantly amalgamate into a highly complex animal. The dense mouthfeel and silky mousse all add to the enjoyment, as this will be a very long-lived ‘Cristal.’ Drink 2022-2040- 97