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Owen Bargreen

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Winemaker Mark Fiore crafts some brilliant wines for EFESTE.

EFESTĒ 'Big Papa' Cabernet Sauvignon Vertical Tasting

February 25, 2022

Stare into the eyes of EFESTĒ founder Daniel Ferelli and no doubt you’ll receive a smile back. ‘Big Papa’ as Daniel is fondly known as, founded EFESTĒ back in 2001. Daniel’s father, the original ‘Big Papa’ faced many challenges living in Chicago during the Great Depression and prohibition. His family sold jug wine out of their brownstone basement just to get by. Over the years, even when Daniel and Helen were running their own business and raising thr ee children, Daniel always maintained the yearly tradition of making wine with his grandfather’s old wine press. His winemaking partners included his son-in-law and EFESTĒ partner, Kevin Taylor.Finally in 2001, Daniel and Kevin started a new tradition of bottling and labeling their garage wine. With state of the art wine making equipment EFESTĒ winery was born.

For years I have admired the ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon which has been consistently the top wine of their program. Sitting down with winemaker Mark Fiore he talked about he he has adapted the ‘Big Papa’ program, starting with the 2019 vintage, as this wine is now only sourced from the Bacchus, Sagemoor and Dionysus Vineyards. “Quality and simplicity was why we did this. We have a Red Mountain Cabernet and I don’t need to mix Red Mountain into everything. We wanted more focus with this program,” he said.

Yesterday we sat across from each other and tasted through the 2014-2021 vintages of this wine. The 2020 and 2021 editions are still in barrel but are showing really nicely. While more translucent in color, they have really good stuffing and 2021 is already showing serious flavor density. Out of the bottled wines, I loved the 2014 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ (OB, 94) which is quite dense and perfumed, with serious aging potential. This wine is drinking right in its sweet spot right now. The same is true with the 2016 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ (OB, 94) which is very soft upon entry and don’t be afraid to open this beauty if you have a few stashed away. Just as good was the sensational 2018 ‘Big Papa’ (OB, 94) which is dense and chewy with gorgeous non-fruit flavors and a long finish. Learn more about this great Woodinville winery at efeste.com and here are my reviews of the 2014-2021 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon. 


2014 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This 2014 edition of ‘Big Papa’ came from the Bacchus, Kiona, Klipsun, Sagemoor and Red Willow Vineyards. Deep and brooding in the glass, this offers intense dark fruits on the nose with tar, tobacco leaf and shades of black truffle. The secondary notes here are really exceptional, as are the black floral tones. The palate is deep and dense with refined tannins that hold in place a core of black raspberry, cardamom dusted blackberry, coffee grounds and tar notes. This is a delight to savor right now, so why wait? Drink 2022-2030- 94

2015 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2015 ‘Big Papa’ was sourced from the Bacchus, Angelas, Kiona, Klipsun, Sagemoor and Red Willow Vineyards. The wine comes off a touch hot but shows good flavor density with blackberry liquor and baking spices that collide with shades of mocha and tar. Enjoy this over the next few years as I don’t see the wine improving. Drink 2022-2026- 91

2016 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This is now the second time this year that I have opened the 2016 EFESTE ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon, the first being from my personal collection. Heady and densely colored in the glass, this unveils rich red and dark fruits with roasted figs, baking spices and shades of milk chocolate. The palate is soft and generous with good length. Rich cassis and anise tones combine with salty undertones the palate with shades of creosote. No need to wait on this beauty. Drink 2022-2028- 94

2017 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Big Papa’ is a seamless wine that is really coming into its own. Sagebrush and black cherry cordial tones combine with shades of espresso bean on the nose. The palate is dense and inviting with a silky texture. Baking spices and Black Forest Cake flavors collide with lighter earthy undertones with refined tannins holding everything together neatly. This is already beautifully evolved. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2018 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- 2018 was Mark Fiore’s first full vintage making wine for EFESTĒ, as this was sourced from Bacchus, Sagemoor, Klipsun and Kiona Vineyards. Aged in roughly 60% new French oak, this delivers ripe black currant flavors alongside tar, tobacco leaf and dark chocolate shavings with scorched earth undertones on the palate. Finishing very long, this is really good to enjoy right now, but will also cellar well over the next twelve years. Drink 2022-2034- 94

2019 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This is now the second time in the past few months that I have tasted the 2019 ‘Big Papa.’ Herbal undertones mark the nose alongside black currants and chocolate combine on the palate. With a seamless texture and great length, this is drinking brilliantly already at the three year mark. Drink 2022-2034- 93

2020 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon-  BARREL SAMPLE 92-94

2021 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- BARREL SAMPLE 92-94

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