L'Ecole No. 41

It has now been 20 years since I first visited on of Walla Walla’s first wineries, L’Ecole No. 41. In 2002 I was a college senior at Whitman College and on this summer day I walked in as a wine critic. Man, does time fly! While I had entered this historic schoolhouse building many times, this was a very special visit, tasting with winemaker Marcus Rafanelli and GM Marty Clubb. For years Clubb has helped build this program into a national power for Washington State wine.  It is a big job at L’Ecole as Clubb oversees more than 90 lots of wine each year.

The new wines were gorgeous across the board. Do not miss on the 2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Luminesce’ White Wine (OB, 92) which maintains beautiful poise and a great range of flavors. Even better was the incredible 2019 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Apogee’ Red Wine (OB, 95) which is dense and tightly wound, really needing another year or two in the bottle to fully strut its stuff. This was a visit to remember. Learn more about these great new wines at lecole.com and here are my reviews of the beautiful new wines by L’Ecole No. 41.

2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Columbia Valley’ Semillon- The really good 2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Columbia Valley’ Semillon comes from the Stillwater, Rosebud, Klipsun, Lodmill, Oasis and XL Vineyards. With 18% Sauvignon Blanc blended in, this offers Macadamia nut, white peach and shades of honeydew melon. The palate is fresh and beautifully textured, with good weight and finesse. Drink this outstanding value over the next five to seven years. Drink 2022-2027- 92

2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Luminesce Seven Hills Vineyard’ White Wine- The 2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Luminesce Seven Hills Vineyard’ White Wine is a blend of 70% Semillon with the remainder Sauvignon Blanc. The palate is very fresh and fragrant with nectarine, gooseberry and shades of Pazzaz apple, with flinty and nutty undercurrents. This is delicious, highly complex wine that will drink well for at least another five years. Drink 2022-2029- 92

2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Columbia Valley’ Chardonnay- This mainstay from the Columbia Valley come from a range of vineyards including Heritage and Stillwater Creek Vineyards. This saw extended battonage and was left on the lees for four months before bottling. The nose screams buttered brioche with bright pear and marzipan notes. The palate shows good weight and finesse with excellent length. Drink 2022-2028- 92

2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Evergreen Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The Evergreen Vineyard is one of the great cooler sites for Chardonnay which is located in the Ancient Lakes AVA. This block comes from old Chardonnay vines, as this also saw extended battonage before bottling. Japanese pear and buttered sourdough bread combine with shades of Marcona almond on the nose. The palate is very fresh and beautifully textured. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2019 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Perigee’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Perigee’ combines Cabernet Sauvignon (52%) and Merlot (19%) with smaller parts Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec.  Entirely sourced from the Seven Hills Vineyard, this evokes shades of garrigue, black cherry compote, tar and tobacco leaf. The palate shows good tension and refined tannins that frame a great core of dark fruits, with stony and herbal accents. Finishing long, this is very refined Cabernet Sauvignon that will cellar well for another fifteen plus years. Give this another year in the bottle to fully evolve. Drink 2023-2037- 94

2019 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Apogee’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Apogee’ is sourced from the Pepper Bridge Vineyard, as this combines Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) with Merlot (25%) and small parts Malbec and Cabernet Franc. The nose displays a dense core of black raspberry with graphite, and dried herbs with tar accents. The palate is very juicy and backwards with serious tension and lovey stony accents. Very intense, with a strong mineral backbone, and refined tannins, this is gorgeous wine that has serious aging potential. Give this at least another year in the bottle prior to consuming. Drink 2023-2042- 95

2019 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Summit View Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This is 100% clonal selection 191 from the Summit View Vineyard, as the Cabernet Sauvignon was stored for 22 months before bottling. Dense and intense on the mouth, this delivers heady black fruit and creosote flavors with gobs of mouth-watering acidity and a firm tanning backbone. The light dusting of salinity adds to the enjoyment, as this is great Cabernet Sauvignon to consume now and over the next fifteen years. Give it a long decant if enjoying now. Drink 2023-2038- 93

2020 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘GSM Seven Hills Vineyard’ Red Wine- Equal parts Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre the 2020 ‘GSM Seven Hills Vineyard’ was stored in French oak barrels for 18 months before bottling. Roasted meats and black raspberry alongside tar and sandalwood notes all combine on the nose. The palate is very fresh and beautifully textured, with good length. Drink 2022-2029- 92

2020 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Estate Seven Hills Vineyard’ Syrah- Delicious and savory, this saw roughly 10% stem inclusion as the 2020 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Estate Seven Hills Vineyard’ Syrah was stored in 25% new French oak before bottling. The wine shows off a beautiful texture, with rich boysenberry, tar and roasted date flavors, with brisket undertones. The loamy, salty soil accents add to the enjoyment, as this is best consumed over the next eight plus years. Drink 2022-2030- 93

Krug Champagne

A simply marvelous Champagne house, Krug is the brainchild of Joseph Krug, founded back in 1843. The house is based in Reims and is currently owned by LVMH Moet Hennessy whose portfolio includes famed French houses like Moet & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Chateau d’Yquem and Ruinart. Originally from Mainz (modern day Germany), Joseph Krug moved to Paris to work in accounting for Champagne Jacquesson and learned so much about Champagne that he began making his own privately. A brilliant linguist, Joseph spoke French, English and German and spoke some Russian, which put his Champagne house in good position to sell to overseas markets.

Paul Krug, took over for his father and began selling Krug across Great Britain. There was great turmoil at the house following Paul’s death in 1910 with two World Wars, while some contend that the best Champagnes of the century were made between 1926 and 1928. While I have never had these wines, many critics have said that they are some of the best wines that they have ever tried.

Krug produces a host of wines including vintage wines and multi-vintage Krug ‘Grande Cuvée’ (which I reviewed), as well as a stunning rosé, a vintage Blanc, a vintage Blanc de Blancs from the Clos du Mesnil Vineyard, a vintage Blanc de Noirs from the Clos d'Ambonnay Vineyard and older vintages released as Krug Collection series.

The new Krug Grande Cuvee 170th Edition is a remarkable achievement made from 195 wines from 12 different years, the youngest of which is from 2014, while the oldest dates back to 1998. This thing is really just an infant Champagne that is built to age. Learn more about these very special wines at https://www.krug.com Here is my review of the Krug Grande Cuvee 170th Edition Champagne.

Krug ‘Grande Cuvee 170th Edition’ Champagne- Complex, delicious and still massively youthful, the Krug Grande Cuvee 170th Edition is a masterful blend of 195 wines from 12 separate vintages — from 2014 to 1998. This edition has considerably less Pinot Meunier (11%) to combine with 51% Pinot Noir, 38% Chardonnay. This was aged for roughly seven years before disgorgement and immediately gratifies with its candied ginger and musty aromas alongside baked apple and lemon rind dusted brioche tones. The silky mousse makes this irresistible once on the attack. Finishing very long with copious citrus fruits and minerals, this beauty has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2022-2036- 96

Long Shadows

More than a decade ago I fondly recall taking friends to the Long Shadows tasting studio in Woodinville. The winery was a brand new project at the time and a really big deal! For many years Long Shadows has made their name by crafting outstanding red wines with a superstar cast of winemaking talent that spans the globe. Gilles Nicault serves as Long Shadows head winemaker. A great dude with a killer palate, Gilles was formerly at Woodward Canyon and is one of the brightest talents in the state. One thing I have found with these wines over the years is how brilliantly they can cellar. I have really enjoyed tasting many of his older wines, particularly their ‘Pedestal’ and ‘Feather’ wines from the 2004-2008 vintages. These wines are meant to age and are really singing right now.

The new releases by Long Shadows were seriously good across the board. Long Shadows produces a beautiful Chardonnay, their 2020 Long Shadows ’Dance’ (OB, 93)which is very fleshy and broad-shouldered, with a great underlying finesse. Even better is the incredible new 2019 Long Shadows ‘Feather’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) which shows serious weight considering the vintage, with lovely herbal and earthy accents. Learn more about this amazing winery at http://www.longshadows.com/ Here are the beautiful new release wines from Long Shadows.

2020 Long Shadows ‘Dance’ Chardonnay-  The 2020 ‘Dance’ Chardonnay is mostly sourced from the 1985 and 1988 plantings from the French Creek Vineyard as well as 1990s plantings from the Boushey Vineyard. This was stored in mostly concrete and neutral oak, with 31% new French oak. The palate is soft and inviting with a seamless texture. Layers of white peach and Mayer lemon vanilla cream come together with stony minerals and suggestions of baking spice dusted brioche. This is elegant, rich and well-balanced Chardonnay that is up there with the finest you will find in the state. Enjoy now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2019 Long Shadows ‘Feather’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Stored for 22 months in 85% new French oak, the 100% varietal 2019 Long Shadows ‘Feather’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from old vine Dionysus Vineyard, as well as Weinbau, with smaller portions coming from the Horse Heaven Hills sites. The nose immediately gratifies with sagebrush, scorched earth, mocha, dense black fruits, with toasty oak accents. The palate is very fresh and beautifully textured. Fine grained tannins line a beautiful core of black currants, blackberry compote and coffee ground flavors. This is an extraordinary effort considering the coolness of the vintage. Delicious to consume now, this beauty will easily cellar for another fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2022-2037- 95

Soos Creek

I love Washington wines that deliver great value. A winery that won’t break the bank that produces incredibly consistent wines, Soon Creek is one of the value producers in Washington, that was founded all the way back in in 1989 by David and Cecile Larsen. David Larsen has crafted wines for more than 30 vintages now. Originally starting to make wine in the Boeing Wine Club (and even blackberry wine), David caught the wine bug thanks to inspiring trips to Europe and Napa Valley.

David focused his project model Quilceda Creek, producing only one Cabernet wine. Over the years he has expanded his lineup. He sources from some of the great sites in the state including Ciel du Cheval and Klipsun in Red Mountain, David makes roughly 2,000 cases each year focusing on high quality red wines. Recently I sat down with David and tasted some of his brilliant older wines, including a 2002 from magnum. The wines showed exceptionally well and proved that his wines can cellar for more than a decade.

I loved the 2019 Soos Creek ‘Sundance’ Red Wine (OB, 91) which is soft and inviting and an amazing deal at $25.00. Don’t miss out on the delicious 2019 Soos Creek ‘Red Mountain’ Cabaret Sauvignon (OB, 93)  which is dense and polished with a seamless texture. Learn more about this great boutique winery at http://www.sooscreekwine.com Here are the excellent new wines by Soos Creek.

2019 Soon Creek ‘Sundance’ Red Wine- While ‘Sundance’ might be their entry level wine, the 2019 edition is no simple red wine. This comes off very soft and inviting with layers of black currants, Arabica bean and huckleberry with creosote notes. Complex and delicious, enjoy this medium-bodied effort over the next five to seven years. Drink 2022-2029- 91

2019 Soos Creek ‘Last Rodeo’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Last Rodeo’ is a blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, with 20% Merlot. It is soft and inviting with a smooth texture and a pretty red fruit profile, with worn leather and graphite notes. Complex and delicious, consume this beauty now and over the next ten years. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2019 Soos Creek ‘Lee Tastevin’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming from the Ciel du Cheval, Ranch at the end of the Road and Klipsun Vineyards on Red Mountain, this delicious 2019 wine delivers good structure and flavor density with tar, anise, blackberry compote and dark chocolate shaving flavors. Delicious to consume now, enjoy this beauty over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 93

2019 Soos Creek ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming from both the Ciel du Cheval and Klipsun Vineyards, the 2019 ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon offers black rose petals, cigar box and scorched earth notes with heady dark fruits on the nose. Refined and opulent, velvety tannins frame a core of anise, blackberry pie, black currant and espresso grounds. The palate is silky smooth, as this is gorgeous stuff to drink now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2022-2037- 93

2019 Soos Creek ‘Soleil’ Red Wine- The really good 2019 Soos Creek ‘Soleil’ Red Wines mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (57%) with smaller portions Merlot and Cabernet Franc blended in. Very soft on the mouth, this revels in its ripe red currant, black cherry, dried sage and cigar ash flavors. Enjoy this outstanding new red blend over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2022-2035- 92

2019 Soos Creek ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Really good even at the three year mark, the 2019 Soos Creek ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a masterclass by winemaker David Larsen. He has opted to blend in 20% Cabernet Franc, as the florals really pop instantly in the glass, with black tea, boysenberry coulis and garrigue notes. The palate delivers plenty of mouth-watering acidity, with refined tannins that hold in place a core of medium to full-bodied dark fruits, with coffee grounds and herbal undertones. Drink 2022-2037- 93

Robert Biale

Robert Biale Vineyards

There is little question that Zinfandel is one of the world’s great varietals, as Zin served as one of the founding varietals of California. One of the standout producers of California Zinfandel, Robert Biale has roots in the 1930s where Pietro Biale planted Zinfandel on the Napa Valley floor. HIs son, Aldo, took over making wine during the Prohibition, using the code name ‘Black Chicken.’ Aldo’s Vineyard still stands today in Napa and is one of the premium vineyard sites that Robert Biale sources from, as well as esteemed spots like the Monte Rosso Vineyard and the Stagecoach Vineyard. For years Tres Goetting has served as Robert Biale winemaker, as he recently moved to Ridge. Longtime viticulturist Robert ‘Bob’ Biale knows how to farm these Zinfandel vineyards incredibly well. The new lineup is incredibly consistent across the board.

I adored the 2020 Robert Biale ‘Black Chicken’ Zinfandel (OB, 92) which is superb for the price and shows great tension with lovely milk chocolate tones. One of the best Zinfandel wines I have tried this year, the  2020 Robert Biale ‘Varozza Vineyard’ Zinfandel (OB, 95) shows amazing a seamless texture and tremendous depth. This is a must-buy for any serious collector of California Zinfandel. Learn more about this storied Napa property at http://biale.com Here are the great new wines by Robert Biale. 

2018 Robert BIale Vineyards ‘Black Chicken’ Zinfandel- The 2020 ’Black Chicken’ comes from a range of vineyards throughout Sonoma and Napa Valley. Very soft on the mouth, this delivers delicious green olive and dill notes that combine with boysenberry. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2020 Robert Biale ‘Old Kraft Vineyard’ Zinfandel- Coming from vines planted in the 1890s, this, making it one of the oldest grapes that you will find in Napa. .Ver smooth throughout the drinking experience, light tannins line a core of red cherry candy, dill and sage with shades of coffee grounds.  Everything is in wonderful balance here, as this beauty will show drinking enjoyment for at least another decade. Drink 2022-2033- 93

2020 Robert Biale ‘Pagani Ranch’ Zinfandel- Sourced from this site in Sonoma County this shows beautiful red florals on the nose, with dusty earth and shades of white pepper and rich red fruits. The palate is soft and inviting with some great underlying acidity, and light dusting of salinity. Layers of red rose water and pomegranate seed, orange rind and milk chocolate combine with the beautiful finesse on the palate. Refined and elegant, with good richness, this beautiful Zinfandel is only starting to hit its stride. Drink 2022-2033- 94

2020 Robert Biale ‘Monte Rosso Vineyard’ Zinfandel- Years ago Robert Biale began sourcing from this high elevation site on Moon Mountain that is best known for Cabernet Sauvignon. This outstanding 2020 Zinfandel offers excellent underlying freshness with ripe red currants, cigar box and orange rind tones that combine with the finesse and salty accents. Drink 2022-2032- 93

2020 Robert Biale ‘R.W. Moore Vineyard’ Zinfandel- The very old ‘R.W. Moore Vineyard’ was planted all the way back in 1905. Once on the nose this shows off red and black florals with wild blackberry and suggestions of loamy soils. The palate is very fresh and shows outstanding underlying finesse. Deep red and dark fruits collide with damp earth and cigar ash notes. Outstanding to savor in its youth, this has at least another decade ahead of it. Drink 2022-2033- 93

2020 Robert Biale ‘Bedrock Vineyard’ Zinfandel- An ancient site for Zinfandel grapes, the ‘Bedrock Vineyard’ dates all the way back to the 1850s and is currently owned by the Peterson family. Ripe Bing cherry and dusty soils combine with chocolate covered black raspberry on the nose. The palate is very elegant and rich, with wonderful viscosity and length — this simply glides throughout the drinking experience. Finishing very long this beauty is drinking great now and will provide drinking enjoyment for another ten to twelve years. Drink 2022-2033- 94

2020 Robert Biale ‘Varozza Vineyard’ Zinfandel- One of the most consistently great Zinfandel wines that I have tasted over the past decade, the brilliant 2020 Robert Biale ‘Varozza Vineyard’ Zinfandel comes from this site in Saint Helena which was planted over a century ago. Once on the nose this takes on layers of black tea and blackberry compote with shades of ripe plum and salty undertones. The palate is deep and concentrated, as this comes off very seamless and elegant. Finishing long with black currants, freshly tilled soils and salty accents, this is a stunning effort that will surely live on for at least another decade. Drink 2022-2035- 95

2020 Robert Biale ‘Royal Punishers’ Petite Sirah- The 2020 Robert Biale ‘Royal Punishers’ Petite Sirah is another gorgeous effort by this Zinfandel house that has a sterling reputation for Petite Sirah.  Very fresh, with a soft texture, light tannins frame a brilliant core of pencil lead, anise, blueberry compote and espresso bean. Delicious and deep, this heady Petite Sirah will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 93

Lange

A true champion for great Oregon Pinot Gris, Lange was founded by Don and Wendy Lange as they purchased a large chunk of land on a steep Willamette Valley hillside back in1987. Over time Jesse Lange has developed into their head winemaker, taking over for his father. Sitting across from Jesse last year we tasted a wine more than 20 years old and were blown away with the aging potential in these wines.

Jesse’s formal winemaking training occurred at New Zealand’s Lincoln University while on a student exchange scholarship from Oregon State in 1999. Jesse then spent two years as cellar rat for winemaker Bruce McGuire at Santa Barbara Winery prior to coming back to his family winery. He joined the winemaking team in 2004 and has served on the board of the Willamette Valley Wineries Association. They opened their new tasting room in 2018 which is simply gorgeous.

I love the new Lange wines which are very consistent across the board. Look to their 2021 Lange ‘Reserve’ Pinot Gris (OB, 92) which is rich and viscous with great natural acidity. Even better is the fantastic new 2021 Lange ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which has terrific weight and loads of mouth-watering acidity. Learn more about this outstanding Oregon winery at https://www.langewinery.com/ Here are the great new wines by Lange Estate

2021 Lange ‘Reserve’ Pinot Gris- The 2021 ‘Reserve’ Pinot Gris is very smooth upon entry. Roasted cashew nut, white peach and shades of green apple all meld in the glass. Delicious and bright, enjoy in tis youth while the brightness remains intact. Drink 2022-2028- 92

2021 Lange ‘Three Hill Cuvee’ Chardonnay- Beautiful and fresh, the polished 2021 ‘Three Hills Cuvee’ by Lange shows off ripe melon with Pink Lady apple flavors alongside good richness and finesse. The nutty and earthy undertones add to the enjoyment. Enjoy over the next eight plus years. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2021 Lange ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay- From this famed site that was planted back in 1998, the 2021 ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay offers nectarine skin and vanilla cream flavors that combine with salty soils and gobs of mouth-watering acidity on the palate. This is exceedingly hard to put down now — and will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another eight years. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2021 Lange ‘Estate’ Chardonnay- From their estate vineyard in the Dundee Hills, this 2021 Chardonnay delivers flinty and nutty accents that combine with serious finesse, stony minerals and rich orchard fruit flavors. This is everything that you want in an elegant Oregon Chardonnay. Drink 2022-2030- 94

2021 Lange ‘Classique’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 ‘Classique’ offers excellent finesse with lighter cranberry, orange zest and pomegranate seed flavors alongside stony minerals on the palate. Enjoy now. Drink 2022-2026- 90

2021 Lange ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 Lange ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir shows ripe raspberry and Yakima cherry flavors that meld with lighter garrigue notes on the palate. Light to medium-bodied, with tons of finesse, enjoy now. Drink 2022-2027- 91

Herman Story

I love the unabashedly bold wines of Paso Robles. Years ago I was tasting with my colleague Dr. Jae Hong in Paso and we were both massively impressed with the Herman Story wines. These were unctuous, full-bodied wines that still had marvelous poise that holds everything brilliantly together. A man with a great story in wine, Russell P. From is the creative genius behind Herman Story wines. Russell grew up visiting his grandfather’s farm in eastern Missouri, driving a tractor and generally getting into whatever trouble he could find. Over time Russell grew very fond of the outdoors. Growing up in the East Bay of San Francisco, Russell attended Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, studying agricultural business, harkening back to his days visiting that Missouri farm.

He was inspired to become a winemaker at a young age, first interning at Lockwood Vineyards in his Freshman year of college — and he has never looked back, now working over 25 harvests. His winery, Herman Story, began in 2001 and has received great critical acclaim since its inception in 2002. Having tried these wines over the past decade, the style tends to be a bold, unbridled style of winemaking that full-throttle and hedonistic. 

I adored the new 2020 Herman Story wines. The new 2019 Herman Story ‘Tomboy’ Viognier (OB, 92) is fresh and rich with a great mineral backbone. I adored the new  is unctuous and rich with a silky texture. Even better is the sinfully good 2019 Herman Story ‘Nuts & Bolts’ Syrah (OB, 94) which is a hedonistic monster of a Syrah that is absolutely delicious to consume right now. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://www.hermanstorywines.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Russell P. From and his Herman Story winery.

2020 Herman Story ‘Tomboy’ Viognier- The 2020 ‘Tomboy’ was sourced from Santa Barbara County. Deeply concentrated honeysuckle and orange blossom tones alongside praline notes that all meld in the glass. The palate is dense and plus with a seamless texture and glorious sense of length. Not for the weary, enjoy over the next five plus years. Drink 2022-2028- 92

2019 Herman Story ‘On The Road’ Grenache- The 2019 ‘On The Road’ unveils beautiful red rose petals, tobacco leaf and tangerine zest tones. The palate is plush and soft with a generous texture and nice sense of weight. Finishing long with minerals, scorched earth and herbal accents, this is a gorgeous new Grenache that will cellar well for another eight plus years. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2020 Herman Story ‘Nuts & Bolts’ Syrah- Very dark and brooding in the glass, the 2020 ‘Nuts & Bolts’ Syrah offers extremely concentrated black cherry, blackberry and tar tones on the palate with great tension holding everything together. Delicious and decadent, this will carry on well for another decade. Drink 2022-2030- 94

2020 Herman Story ‘Bien Naceido Vineyard’ Syrah- Sourced from this famed site in the Santa Maria Valley, the 2020 ‘Bien Naceido Vineyard’ Syrah shows off lovely white pepper dusted brisket, black olive tapenade and blackberry compote with black rose tones that all sing in unison. Very refined on the mouth, this is very salty and savory Syrah that will gratify over the next ten years. Drink 2020-2030- 95

2020 Herman Story ‘Milk & Honey’ Red Wine- A blend of mostly Tempranillo and Syrah, this exudes class on the nose with smoked pork shoulder, worn leather and intense dark fruits with creme de violette notes. The palate is well-balanced and shows wonderful earthy tones from the Tempranillo and greta flavor range. This has both the weight and finesse to cellar well for another decade. Drink 2022-2032- 94

2020 Herman Story ‘First Time Caller’ Petite Sirah- The 2020 ‘First Time Caller’ is a dense and chewy new Petite Sirah that is delicious even in its youth. Blueberry compote, mocha, tar and anise tones combine with firm tannins on the palate. Finishing very long, this is novel and complex Petit Sirah that is definitely not for the weary. Drink 2022-2032- 94

Mt. Brave

One of the beautiful, high-elevation sites in the Napa Valley, the majestic Mt. Brave Vineyard is a high elevation site that is set on gravelly loam with large rocks throughout. This is very labor intensive land to farm and the wines from this site shows incredible density of fruit but also wonderful, earthy terroir. The elevation also adds to the freshness in the core of the wine. For years I have admired these wines that employ good body and depth but also serious finesse and rocky undertones from the soil profile.

At the helm is superstar winemaker Chris Carpenter, who is truly one of Napa’s greats.  Chris has crafted some stunning wines from the 2019 vintage. The 2019 Mt. Brave ‘Mt. Veeder’ Merlot (OB, 95) is deep and concentrated wine that is already beautifully evolved following a decant. It is a stunning wine that will easily live on for another twenty years. Learn more about this famed winery at mtbravewines.com Here is my review of the 2016 Mt. Brave Merlot. 

2019 Mt. Brave Merlot- The absolutely delicious 2019 Mt. Brave Merlot comes from eastern-facing slopes on Mt. Veeder.. It immediately gratifies with chocolate covered kirsch notes alongside black raspberry, graphite and loamy soils. The intense aromatics bring you back to the glass for more enjoyment. The wine showcases velvety tannins that frame a beautiful core of red and dark fruits, with espresso grounds, mocha and lighter dried herbal notes. Finishing very long, this is soft, complex and stunning high-elevation Napa Merlot to consume now and over the next twenty years. Give this at least an hour in the decanter if enjoying now. Drink 2023-2043- 96

2019 Mt. Brave Cabernet Sauvignon- The beautiful 2019 Mt. Brave Cabernet Sauvignon has 5% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc blended in. Needing an hour in the decanter to be fully aroused, this delivers ripe cassis and huckleberry notes that combine with wet stone and suggestions of sandalwood on the nose. The palate is refined and elegant, with plenty of dense dark fruits and power — yet comes off quite weightless. Refined tannins and bright acidity frame this outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon that is only starting to come into its own. Drink 2023-2043- 96

Champagne Bollinger

One of the brilliant historic houses in Champagne, Bollinger was first founded in 1829 in Ay by Hennequin de Villermont, Paul Renaudin and Jacques Bollinger. Today the house continues to be run by members of the Bollinger family. This house has been particularly popular in Britain as Bollinger Champagnes have been come to be known as “Bolly”. It is quite amazing that Bollinger dates back to 1585 when the Hennequins, one of the Bollinger founding families, owned land nearby. Before the Bollinger house was founded, in the 18th century the Villermont family made wine and then 1750, Villermont settled in the location 16 rue Jules Lobet, which would eventually become the head office for Bollinger.

In 1803 Jacques Joseph Placide Bollinger was born in modern day Germany and after moving to the Champagne region he started work at the Champagne house of Muller Ruinart. In 1829 he partnered with Hennequin de Villermont, Paul Levieux Renaudin to form Bollinger in Ay, France. The partners agreed that the Villermont name would not be used on the labels, hence the house name Renaudin Bollinger. Starting when Jacques Bollinger married Charlotte de Villermont, the house has been managed by the Bollinger family. Even though Paul Renaudin passed without an heir to his name, the label did not become solely Bollinger until the 1960s. Founder Jacques had two sons Joseph and Georges that were important in expanding the family estate by purchasing vineyards in nearby villages. The sons also developed the image of the brand, such as when Bollinger received a Royal Warrant in 1884 from Queen Victoria which still appears on their label.

Following the death of Jacques Bollinger in 1941, Lily Bollinger took over the brand and expanded production considerably. Since 1994, Ghislain de Mongolfier has managed Bollinger. A great-grandson of the founder, Mongolfier has also served as president of the Association Viticole Champenoise since 2004, after leading the Commission of Champagne for 10 years. Bollinger has had roles in many James Bond films, including the 1973 film Live and Let Die  where Bond asks for a bottle of Bollinger entering his hotel. In the 1985 film A View to a Kill James Bond notes that his champagne is ‘Bollinger 1975.’

Bollinger produces a great range of Champagnes and is probably best known for their ‘Special Cuvee’ Champagne that is Pinot Noir dominant and includes reserve wines that are up to fifteen years of age. I loved the new NV Bollinger ‘Special Cuvee’ Champagne (OB, 92) which shows brilliant brioche and mustycomponents. Bollinger has gained a sterling reputation for their ‘La Grand Annee’ wines and I have certainly enjoyed many of these over the past few decades. Their new release, the 2014 Bollinger ‘La Grande Annee’ Champagne (OB, 95) is an incredible effort that shows great flavor density and weight, with serious structured. This is big, bold 2014 Champagne that brilliantly showcases this unabashedly rich vintage. Learn more about this famed Champagne house at https://www.champagne-bollinger.com Here are my reviews of the beautiful new releases by Champagne Bollinger.

NV Champagne Bollinger ‘Special Cuvee’ Champagne-  The NV ‘Special Cuvee’ is a compelling blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier which was sourced from almost entirely Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards. Very rich and generous in the glass, this offers lovely musty aromas on the nose with baked green apple, star jasmine and a dusting of white pepper. The palate is big and broad-shouldered, with brilliant underlying finesse. Enjoy now and over the next eight years. Everything is wonderfully in balance here, as this just may be the pinnacle of champagne in this price range. Drink 2022-2030- 92

NV Champagne Bollinger Rose- A downright gorgeous salmon hue, the NV Champagne Bollinger Rose is a lovely blend of 62% Pinot Noir and 24% Chardonnay with 14% Pinot Meunier that was sourced from nearly all Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards. Very tart red fruits combine with salted green melon, sourdough bread and suggestions of green apple on the palate. Refined and elegant, this is beautiful wine to consume now and over the next ten years. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2014 Champagne Bollinger ‘La Grande Anne’ Champagne- The 2014 Champagne Bollinger ‘La Grande Anne’ Champagne is a full-bodied effort that is somewhat reminiscent of the 2012 bottling in terms of overall weight. A blend of 61% Pinot Noir, 39% Chardonnay that was given 8G/L dosage, once on the nose this shows off light musty aromas of white truffle and freshly tilled salty soils, alongside bright Gravenstein apple and lemon rind accents. The palate is plush and full-bodied, showing a gratifying sense of both weight and verve. Finishing long with stony and salty undertones, this is a terrific showing even now at the eight year mark, as the ebullient 2014 Champagne Bollinger ‘La Grande Anne’ Champagne will surely live on for at least another fifteen years — and potentially more. Drink 2022-2037- 95

Cardinale

I fondly remember my last trip to Cardinale several years back. Set on a highly scenic location, Cardinale has a patio that boasts sweeping views of the valley. It is truly one of the great spots in Napa to taste wine. This is a spot where world-class hospitality matches the quality in the glass.

The wines by Cardinale have been seriously great and incredibly consistent. While the price tag is high, I have absolutely loved not only the richness and flavor density of the wine but the bright acidity that makes this wine age so gracefully for decades.  Located on the Napa floor, in Oakville not far from Robert Mondavi Winery, Cardinale offers a comparison tasting at the winery as you can see how beautifully the wines age. The Cardinale Red Wine is a Cabernet Sauvignon based wine with smaller parts of Merlot blended in. At the helm is Chris Carpenter, is an MBA graduate who has previously worked for Domaine Carneros, Domaine Chandon California, as well as Tenute Antinori, Santa Cristina Estate, in Montefiridolfi, Italy, before coming to Cardinale. Chris is humble when talking about his wines. He is truly one of the great talents of Napa.

I was lucky enough to attend a stunning tasting of Cardinale at the Mandarin Oriental hotel in New York a few years back. Chris talked about the aging potential of these wines, that are rich but highly structured with a great combination of power and finesse. The new release is simply magical and has so much aging potential. The 2019 Cardinale Red Wine (OB, 97)  is powerful and polished with a massive core of dark fruits and coffee grounds. It is a hedonistic monster of a wine that really needs time in the cellar right now. I think this beauty has potential to age for twenty five plus years. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.cardinale.com/ and here is my tasting note for the gorgeous new 2019 Cardinale Red Wine.

2019 Cardinale Red Wine- The 2019 Cardinale Red WIne is a stunning effort by winemaker Chris Carpenter. Needing two plus hours in the decanter to fully develop, the wine leads with layers of toasty oak and blackberry compote that mingle with dark chocolate covered Arabica bean, and huckleberry cordial notes. With more air the beautiful aromas become more intoxicating. Once on the mouth you sense the core being beautifully textured and structured, with firm tannins holding everything together. Rich anise, and black currants amalgamate with espresso grounds, and creme de violette, with copious minerals. Try to avoid consuming this beautiful wine for at least another year. Drink 2024-2048- 97

Rivaura

Idaho wine is on the rise as Rivaura is one of the most scenic spots you will find in the Pacific Northwest. Set on a stunning riverfront location just outside of Lewiston, Idaho, on the Clearwater River, it was back in 2014 that Rivaura founders Ron Hewett, Sr., along with his sons Ron, Jr., and Reece Hewett, founded this winery. For more than 60 years, this family has grown up along the banks of the Clearwater River in the Lewis-Clark Valley, just a tad east of Lewiston, Idaho at Arrow near Juliaetta, Idaho.

Prior to stating their winery the Hewetts talked to Kevin Pogue, PhD, RG, of VinTerra Consulting based in Walla Walla, Washington. Dr. Pogue's noted "The Rivaura vineyards are ideally situated to grow grapes to make superb wines.” Touring the vineyards I was very impressed with the vine health and the location in close proximity to the river which serves as a mitigating factor.

I am so impressed with the new wines by Rivaura. Billo Naravane, MW, of Rasa Vineyards fame, has crafted another outstanding range of wines for Rivaura, coming from the 2020 vintage. A killer value is the 2020 Rivaura ‘River Ranch Red’ Red Wine (OB, 91) which shows good richness and flavor complexity.  I adored the new 2020 Rivaura ‘Reserve’ Syrah (OB, 93) which shows very unique terroir and plenty of dense dark fruits with savory notes. This is delicious wine to consume now and over the next ten years. Learn more about this really exciting new Idaho wine project at rivaura.com and here are my reviews of the new Rivaura wines. 

2020 Rivaura ‘River Ranch Red’ Red Wine- Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with some Merlot and a touch of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec, this was stored in 30% new French oak before bottling. The nose shows garrigue notes with rich dark fruits and chocolate fudge accents. The palate is soft and gratifying with serious tension and texture. This is nothing short of a sensational value at 30 dollars retail. Drink 2022-2029- 91

2020 Rivaura Petit Verdot- The 2020 Rivaura Petit Verdot shows off beautiful black florals with black currants, cigar box and green olive notes. The palate is plush and dense with serious texture and a sterling underlying tension. Finishing long with black fruits and minerals, this is gorgeous, generous wine that is already beautifully evolved. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2020 Rivaura Malbec- Stored in roughly 30% new French oak, the 2020 Malbec delivers black rose petals with anise, exotic spices and shades of boysenberry coulis. The palate is soft and beautifully textured, with a strong underlying tension. Flinty and stony undertones combine with a deep core of dark fruits on the palate. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2020 Rivaura Cabernet Sauvignon- 100% varietal, this was stored for 18 months in roughly 49% new French oak before bottling. Anise and dark currants combine with blackberry compote on the nose. The palate shows serious finesse with stony undertones alongside rich dark fruits and chocolate undertones. Drink 2022-2034- 92

2020 Rivaura ‘Reserve’ Syrah- Coming from a low-yielding hillside site, the 2020 ‘Reserve’ Syrah is 100% varietal wine that is very inky in the glass. The aromatic range shows beautiful black rose petals with garrigue, wet stone and shades of black olive tapenade. This shows power and precision with serious flavor density and bright acidity holding everything in place. Drink 2022-2033- 93

2020 Rivaura ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Franc- The 2020 ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Franc shows beautiful florals on the nose with blackberry compote and shades of wild herbs. The palate is soft and inviting with a great mineral backbone. Deep and concentrated with a rich core of black currants, blackberry pie and garrigue, this is beautiful wine to enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2022-2033- 93

2020 Rivaura ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming from the north blocks of the vineyard, this is a selection of three clones. Aged for 18 months in 55% new French oak, this delivers cigar box, black currant jelly and cigar box notes that all meld in the glass. This is very seamless Cabernet Sauvignon that is texturally gratifying. Enjoy this beauty over the next ten plus years. Drink 2022-2035- 93

2020 Rivaura ‘Insomniac’ Red Wine- This comes from the south block of the Rivaura Vineyard and is primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with smaller parts Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Aged in 55% new French oak for eighteen months before bottling, this will be released in spring 2023. Herbal and wild on the nose, this evokes suggestions of sagebrush, black cherry cordial and cigar ash that combine with suggestions of graphite. This is very seamless and elegant throughout the drinking experience. Drink 2022-2035- 93

Champagne Andre Chemin

One of the great value producers out there in Champagne, André Chemin has been a family house since its creation in 1948. It blends its champagnes in the heart of the Reims mountains. Most of their vines planted are Pinot Noir, as their entry level, killer value Premier Cru Champagne is also 100% Pinot Noir.

Today, Sébastian and his wife Eva are at the head of a 6.5 hectare family estate on the Premier Cru hills of the Reims Mountain. They produce a beautiful range of champagnes that impress for the price. Learn more about these great wines at https://www.champagneandrechemin.fr/bruttradition.html and here are my reviews of the outstanding new release Andre Chemin.

NV Andrew Chemin Premier Cru Rose Champagne- Fresh and vibrant, the Premier Cru Rose Champagne offers vibrant strawberry and guava notes, with bright acidity and citrus zest accents and a dusting of white truffle. The silky mousse impresses, as this is beautiful stuff to consume now and over the next eight years. Drink 2022-2030- 92

NV Andre Chemin Premier Cru ‘Tradition’ Champagne- 100% Pinot Noir, the brilliant NV Andre Chemin Premier Cru ‘Tradition’ Champagne shows plenty of weight and surrounding tension once on the attack. Layers of baking spice dusted brioche, yellow rose water, white peach and ginger all collide on the palate. Seriously good now, enjoy over the next eight plus years. Drink 2022-2030- 92

Top Source

It has been several years since I have known fellow Whitman grad and Washingtonian, Meredith Hyslop. Meredith started in the wine business in Walla Walla Valley when there were only 25 existing wineries in the region. After studying Enology and Viticulture at the Walla Walla Institute she moved to France to study in Dijon. Her studies brought her to the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France where she worked for 12 years. Upon her return to her home state, she decided to start her own winery to showcase the premium quality of her home state at a competitive price point.

Founded in 2020, This is now the second chance I have had to taste these delicious wines by Top Source and I swear that they both come from the Rocks District. There is something so pretty about each wine and each have a soft texture and stony accents. They are both delicious and are highly recommended. Learn more about this new producer at https://www.skurnik.com/producer/top-source/ and here are my reviews of the outstanding new Top Source wines.

2019 Top Source Columbia Valley Red Wine- A blend of 60% Grenache with the remainder Syrah, this shows beautiful stony accents on the nose with red rose petals, red currants, cigar ash and shades of green olives that all come together marvelously in the glass. The palate is silky and elegant with incredible texture and finesse. A cornucopia of Umami greets you with seaweed, Hoisin sauce and white truffle notes that combine with red raspberry and salted huckleberry. Complex and delicious, this is delightful to consume now and over the next eight years. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2019 Top Source ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah- Wonderfully stony and terroir-driven, the 2019 2019 Top Source ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah offers beautiful black tea and exotic spice notes on the palate, with smoldering stones, blackberry compote and bulls blood accents. Salty and very savory, this is beautifully-textured Syrah that is already nicely evolved — and will continue to produce drinking enjoyment over the next eight years. Drink 2022-2030- 93

Champagne Ayala

A historic house in Ay in Champagne, Ayala was founded back in 1860. It was at that time that Edmond de Ayala, a Colombian by birth, settled in the Château d'Aÿ in 1850, where he began studying the Champagne business. Back then the château was owned by the Viscount of Mareuil, and it was he that taught Edmond what he knew. Edmond later married the Viscount's niece, whose dowry included both the Château and its vineyards and the brand was born.

Ayala currently produces both vintage and non-vintage wines.  The brand is managed by Hadrien Mouflard, who formerly served as secretary general for Champagne Bollinger. The house is owned by Bollinger, as Caroline Latrive seres as the chef de cave. It is also one of the founding members of the Syndicate des Grandes Marques bak in 1882.

The new wines were gorgeous across the board. I was completely enamored by the NV Champagne Ayala ‘Brut Majeur’ Rose (OB, 93) which is dazzling and fresh with delicate red fruits and serious finesse. Even better is the gorgeous 2015 Champagne Ayala ‘Le Blanc de Blancs’ (OB, 94) which shows plenty of density and richness from this warm vintage. Learn more about this great historic house in champagne at https://www.champagne-ayala.fr/en/our-heritage/ and here are my reviews of the beautiful wines by Champagne Ayala.

NV Champagne Ayala ‘Brut Majeur’ Brut- The NV Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur is a blend of 70 crus from all of the Champagne region, this blends 45% Chardonnay with 35% Pinot Noir and the remainder Pinot Meunier. The palate is wonderfully salty, with plenty of racy acidity. Lemon and lime zest combine with stony minerals and salted nectarine on the palate. Delicious to consume now, enjoy over the next seven plus years. Drink 2022-2029- 91

NV Champagne Ayala Brut Nature- Aged for nearly four years en tirage, the NV Champagne Ayala Brut Nature is a blend of mostly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with a dash of Pinot Meunier.  Crushed seashells and lemon zest flavors combine with copious minerals on the palate. Enjoy now while the bright tension remains intact. Drink 2022-2027- 92

NV Champagne Ayala Rose ‘Brut Majeur’ Champagne- The very delicate NV Champagne Ayala Rose ‘Brut Majeur’ Champagne blends 50% Chardonnay with the remainder Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, and was given 7 G/L dosage. The palate is very viscous and refined with a soft mousse. Layers of pomegranate seed, blood orange and Yakima cherry, with salted cantaloupe all brilliantly combine on the palate. This comes off very full-bodied, with good finesse, this beauty is showing brilliantly now and will continue to showcase its outstanding flavor range over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2015 Champagne Ayala Le Blanc de Blancs- Brilliant even in its vibrant youth, the NV Champagne Ayala Le Blanc de Blancs mainly was sourced from three separate Grand Cru vineyards (Chouilly, Cramant and Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger) and sat six years on the lees prior to disgorgement. The nose shows brilliant saline drenched pear, white pepper and shades of ginger. The palate is rich and viscous, showing the weight and intensity of the vintage. The sense of weight and heady saline drenched citrus and orchard fruits really provide a beautiful sense of opulence. Stunning in its full-bodied youth, this is brilliant wine to consume now and over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 94

Francois Schmitt

A winery with serious history, François Schmitt comes from a long line of wine producers. At the start of the 1970s he took over the family farm in the heart of the village, which consisted of three hectares of vines.To grow operations François acquired several plots of land notably on the Bollenberg and Grand Cru Pfingstberg slopes, terroirs which today make up close to 80% of the Domaine’s hectarage.

His son joined the operation in 1998 and today their domaine is comprised of 13 hectares which is mainly planted to Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Gewurtztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris. I loved the new wines by them particularly the value driven NV Francois Schmitt ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Cremant D’ Alsace (OB, 90) which is fresh and polished with lovely ginger notes. The best wine I tasted was the rich and bone-dry 2017 Francois Schmitt ‘Grand Cru Pfingstberg Paradis’ Riesling (OB, 93) which comes from this Grand Cru site and shows incredible texture and gobs of tension. Learn more about this historic winery at https://francoisschmitt.fr/en/ and here are my reviews of the new Francois Schmitt wines.

NV Francois Schmitt ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Cremant D’ Alsace- The excellent Blanc de Noirs by Francois Schmitt offers baking spice dusted sourdough bread, marzipan and ginger notes alongside green apple tones. Enjoy now. Drink 2022-2026- 90

2021 Francois Schmitt ‘Linn des Sept’ Pinot Blanc- The 2021 Francois Schmitt ‘Linn des Sept’ Pinot Blanc delivers kiwi, sweetened gooseberry and cantaloupe tones on the palate with great underlying finesse. Enjoy now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2022-2027- 90

2020 Francois Schmitt ‘La Colline Aux Cailloux’ White Wine- A blend of seven varietals, the 2020 Francois Schmitt ‘La Colline Aux Cailloux’ White Wine shows lychee notes alongside green papaya, gardenia water, mango and ripe pineapple notes. Stony and showing a light salinity, this is beautifully textured wine that is drinking beautifully now. Drink 2022-2028- 91

2017 Francois Schmitt ‘Grand Cru Pfingstberg Paradis’ Riesling- Rich and concentrated, the 2017 Francois Schmitt ‘Grand Cru Pfingstberg Paradis’ Riesling is bone dry with serious weight and structure. Layers of freshly cut lime, blue slate and nectarine combine with copious minerals on the palate. Generous and showing brilliant underlying finesse, this Grand Cru Riesling will cellar well over the next ten years. Drink 2022-2032- 93

Sullivan Rutherford Estate

Some might not know that Sullivan Rutherford Estate dates all the way back 1972. Jim Sullivan’s interest in wine was ignited in the 1950s with a simple grape arbor given to him and his new bride as a wedding gift and he began to make wine at home before moving his family to Rutherford and establishing Sullivan in 1972. The winery began new ownership in 2018 which involved investing in vineyard programs and plans are underway to build a state-of-the-art winery and hospitality facilities which was all led by entrepreneur Juan Pablo Torres-Padilla. 

Last year I had the chance to taste a range of Sullivan’s top ‘Founder’s Reserve’ wines from vintages 2013-2017. This line was formerly known as ‘James O’ Neil’ and I was quite honestly blown away with the wines. This year I had to chance to taste the new range of wines by Sullivan and was super impressed with the overall quality. Do not miss out on the gorgeous 2019 Sullivan ‘Founder’s Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 96) is concentrated and deep, with beautiful underlying poise. Learn more at https://sullivanwine.com Here are my tasting notes from the new Sullivan Rutherford East wines. 

2019 J.O. Sullivan ‘Founder’s Reserve’ Merlot- The opulent 2019 J.O. Sullivan ‘Founder’s Reserve’ Merlot is a delightful effort that is already beautifully evolved. Once on the nose this takes on black rose petals with cigar box, anise and shades of graphite with intense dark fruit tones. The palate is very plush and seamless throughout the drinking experience. Finishing long, this reveals heady cassis and pencil lead notes alongside freshly tilled loamy soils. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2022-2037- 94

2019 Sullivan Rutherford Estate ‘Coeur de Vigne’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The intense 2019 Sullivan Rutherford Estate ‘Coeur de Vigne’ Cabernet Sauvignon delivers a plush mouthfeel with lovely herbal undertones that collide with cassis, blueberry pie and espresso ground notes. Enjoy now and over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2019 J. O. Sullivan ‘Founder’s Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Decadent, refined and showing beautiful elegance, the 2019 J. O. Sullivan ‘Founder’s Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a masterclass by Sullivan Rutherford Estate. Very inky once in the glass, this delivers graphite and garrigue notes that combine with intense dark fruits and violets on the nose. The palate is intense and hedonistic, with a serious mineral backbone. Opulent black and blue fruits combine with stony accents on the palate. Finishing very long with black fruits and minerals, this is an exceedingly good wine that has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2040- 96

Orr Wines

Sitting beside winemaker Erica Orr, she spoke about her recent trip to France. It did sound like a killer visit to Bordeaux — very relaxed in the heat of summer. I had too embarked on a trip to France in the heat. Everything is very precise in her winemaking, as the wines by her brand and Baer always share a beginning, middle and end.

Orr Wines began several years back as Erica was dying to produce top class Chenin Blanc and create her own brand. It is a hard knock life right now for Chenin Blanc, as a few years back an old vine vineyard, Rothrock, was ripped up. That was the site for her wine and she had to find another source. All of her red wines come from the esteemed Stillwater Creek Vineyard in the Royal Slope AVA — a site that she is very familiar with, as her Baer wines also come from that location.

I love the new wines by Erica Orr. Do not miss out on her 2021 Orr Wines Chenin Blanc (OB, 92) which is rich and full of finesse, and is truly one of the great wines of its kind in North America. I also adored the new 2021 Orr Wines Grenache (OB, 92) which is also chalk-filled of tension and shows a leaner, very pretty expression of the varietal. Learn more about these great wines at orrwines.com and here are my reviews of the new wines by Erica Orr.

2021 Orr Wines Chenin Blanc- Coming from the Gresswell, Rosa Hills and Upland Vineyards, the 2021 Orr Wines, this was aged in a combination of stainless steel, hogshead barrels and used French oak before bottling. This shows a nutty edge once on the nose, with bright pear and starfruit tones. The palate is beautifully textured and shows great poise and weight. This is seamless throughout the drinking experience, as this Chenin Blanc is best consumed over the next five to seven years. Drink 2022-2028- 92

2021 Orr Wines Grenache- The 2021 Orr Wines was stored in natural oak for eight months before bottling in May 2022. Coming from the Corfu Crossing and Stillwater Creek Vineyards, this delivers pretty guava and red cherry notes on the nose with shades of green olives. The texture is soft as this displays great underlying acidity that makes your mouth water. A beautiful core of red fruits mingle on the palate, with citrus rind and shades of wet stone. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2019 Orr Wines Merlot- The 20219 Orr Merlot comes from the Stillwater Creek AVA, as this has 20% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. Stored in used oak, this delivers ripe cassis, mocha and chocolate cake notes on the nose. The palate is very fresh and finesse-driven with good structure, showing plenty of mouth-watering acidity. This is beautiful wine to consume now and over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 91

2020 Orr Wines Red Wine- The 2020 Orr Wines Red Wine is a blend of 92% Merlot with 8% Cabernet Sauvignon. Hand-sorted, this was entirely stored in neutral oak before bottling in May 2022. This is beautifully textured with a soft mouthfeel and delivers chocolate covered cherry, roasted dates and graphite notes. Drinking nicely now, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2022-2030- 91

Woodward Canyon

It is my pleasure to share one of the wineries that I first visited back in 2002. Woodward Canyon began back in 1981 when Rick and Darcey Small took a leap of faith and planted a range of grape varietals in the Walla Walla Valley. Today their son, Sager, and daughter, Jordan head Woodward Canyon, as Sager serves as vineyard manager and Jordan takes the reins as general manager. These are wines that age so gracefully. Years ago I had the opportunity to try every edition of their ‘Artist Series’ Cabernet Sauvignon and have been so impressed with how that wine ages.

It is hard to believe that they are now on their 29th edition of this wine. The 2020 Woodward Canyon ‘Artist Series’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 93) is dense, chewy and delicious — it is extraordinary wine to consume right now. Woodward Canyon have developed a nationwide reputation for great Chardonnay. I loved the 2021 Woodward Canyon ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which deftly walks the tightrope between weight and finesse  I was absolutely enamored by the 2020 Woodward Canyon ‘Old Vines Washington’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) which shows a hedonistic bent and plenty of bright acidity and firm tannins to hold things up. This beautiful wine has decades of life ahead of it. Learn more about this historic Washington winery at https://www.woodwardcanyon.com/ Here are the gorgeous new release wines by Woodward Canyon.

2021 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2021 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc which comes from four different clones and two different blocks in their estate vineyard. The wine comes off very fresh with gooseberry, lime zest and a smooth texture. The weight and salty undertones really add to the enjoyment. Drink 2022-2027- 92

2021 Woodward Canyon ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay- This vintage is 100% sourced from the Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Vineyard which was stored in roughly 20% new French oak. This version did not undergo malolactic fermentation and reveals banana, brioche and salted almond notes on the palate. Delicious now, consume over the next five to seven years. Drink 2022-2028- 93

2020 Woodward Canyon ‘Syrah Mourvèdre Grenache’ Red Wine- This blends 50% Syrah with 38% Syrah and 12% Grenache. Smoked brisket, white pepper and green olives all combine on the nose. The palate is very fresh and focused with a seamless texture. Layered and showing nice lavender and salty notes, this is beautiful wine to consume now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2020 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Cabernet Franc- The 2020 ‘Estate’ Cabernet Franc is a beautiful new wine by Woodward Canyon. Black and red florals combine with green herbs, blackberry and shades of roasted plum. The palate is soft and refined with a silky texture and serious length. Showing good weight, this is beautiful Cabernet Franc that will cellar well for another ten plus years. Drink 2022-2032- 93

2020 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Merlot- The 2020 ‘Estate’ Merlot is a dense and chewy 100% varietal bottling by winemaker Kevin Moss that has some great aging potential. Cocoa powder and dense black fruits combine with clay soils on the nose. The palate is soft and inviting with great stuffing and flavor density. Finishing long with serious length, enjoy this beauty over the next ten plus years. Drink 2022-2033- 93

2020 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate Clone 4’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This 2020 single clone Cabernet Sauvignon is a beautiful expression of Walla Walla Cabernet. Once on the nose this takes on loganberry with dried herbs and shades of espresso grounds. The palate is fresh and shows good weight and finesse, with a loaded core of black fruits and bright acidity that holds everything together. Drink 2022-2035- 93

2020 Woodward Canyon ‘Artist Series’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 ‘Artist Series’ is a flat out fabulous blend of 76% Cavernet Sauvignon with the remainder Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and a touch of Syrah, Dolcetto and Barbera. The resultant blend is an outstanding wine that was stored in mostly new French oak before bottling.  On the nose this takes on toasty oak with black currants, Turkish coffee and dark chocolate shavings. Showing deep concentration and a silky texture, this blend really makes Petit Verdot shine with its massive blue fruits, light green herbs and tannins. Drink 2022-2035- 93

2020 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Estate Reserve’ Red Wine blends 35% Cabernet Sauvignon with 29% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc with a touch of Malbec and Petit Verdot that was all stored in 100% French oak. The palate is very soft and refined with lovely herbal and graphite tones alongside Asian spices, black currant jelly, and coffee grounds with firm tannins holding things brilliantly in place. This has some serious aging potential. Drink 2023-2040- 94

2020 Woodward Canyon ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The brilliant 2020 Woodward Canyon ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a sensational new bottling by Kevin Moss. The palate is dense and chewy with serious finesse and nice richness. Dark cherry cordial with mocha and shades of black licorice all combine on the palate. This has a weightless quality and an extremely long, black fruit-driven finish that completes this seamless beauty. Generous and layered, this will cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 95

Madeira 2022 Update: Cossart Gordon and Miles

For years I have been enchanted by the wines of Madeira. The name ‘Madeira’ originates from Portuguese name for a carpenter, from madeira ‘wood’ and is also named after the island of Madeira —which was named with Portuguese madeira ‘timber’ because of the timber that grew there. The island was colonized in the 15th century under the patronage of Prince Henry the Navigator, Joao Goncalves Zarco and Tristao Vaz Teixeira who were all were driven by a storm to the island they called Porto Santo in 1419. Amazingly there is no record of anyone living on this island prior to that time. There are some suggestions that Africans may have come to Madeira, just as the Vikings may have visited. In the fifteenth century the world of refining sugar came to the island to cater to the taste of the Europeans and through the seventeenth century sugarcane production became the island’s primary production. 

Wine had also been produced, but was not nearly as popular as sugarcane production. We do have records of winemaking in Madeira back to the end of the 15th century and also records of preventing wines from spoiling using a neutral grape spirit. During long voyages the wines would be exposed to excessive heat and movement which changed the flavor of the wine. It is likely that this was a catalyst for the current standard of winemaking on Madeira which involves oxidizing the wine through a process of applying heat and also barrel aging the wine. Younger wines are typically crafted by using a method that accelerate the aging process by applying heat in tanks. and the aging potential while the top wines, the colheitas and frasqueiras are produced by the canteiro method. The word"canteiro" comes from the traditional supporting beams on which the oak casks are placed. This process involves the ageing of the wines in casks for a minimum period of 4 years stored under the rafters of warm attics, exposed to the natural warmth of the sun that gently heats the wine.

Wines made in the “canteiro” system are stored in casks by variety name and vintage under old rafters at the lodge. These casks are warmed by the tropical climate and evolve to be highly concentrated. The wines are slowly moved down from the top to cooler temperatures. Because of these methods of production these wines are very long lived and those produced by the canteiro method will survive for decades and even centuries, even after being opened. Wine are typically made in the style of being either dry, medium-dry, medium-rich and rich. All wines are typically between 17 and 21% alcohol. Some varietals used include Sercial, Verdelho, Terrantez, Bual, Malmsey, and Tinta Negra. 

I recently had the chance to review wines from two top Madeira producers, including some wines aged back to the 1970s. I am honestly quite floored by the overall quality of both producers which are wines that all have some tremendous cellaring potential. I loved the 2006 Cossart Gordon Bual Madeira (OB, 92) which is already beautifully evolved and shows great nutty and scotch notes. I was blown away with the 1975 Cossart Gordon ‘Verdejo’ Madeira (OB, 97) which literally brings a cornucopia of aromatics and flavors. Here are my tasting notes from the recent releases by Cosstart Gordon and Miles Madeira.

1975 Cossart Gordon Verdelho Madeira- The near 50 year old 1975 Cossart Gordon Verdelho Madeira is a masterclass by this esteemed house. It is intense, rich and layered with insane flavor range from kumquat zest to red cherry and guava notes alongside almandine and cinnamon sticks on the palate. Drinking beautifully now, this will surely live on for another ten plus years. Drink 2022-2040- 97

2006 Cossart Gordon Bual Madeira- Sensational on the nose with white raisin and ripe red cherry candy notes, the 2006 Bual Madeira is very fresh once on the mouth, with a touch of sweetness. Highlands scotch and toasted Macadamia nut notes combine with ripe red raspberry on the palate. Finishing long, this is beautiful stuff to consume now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2009 Cossart Gordon Verdeljho Madeira- The really good 2009 Cossart Gordon Verdeljho Madeira delivers tangerine peel, wet stone and peat moss tones on the nose. The palate is very fresh and lithe, producing tons of mouth-watering acidity after every sip. Finishing very long with nectarine, kumquat and white rose water, this is beautiful wine to consume now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2022-2032- 93

2000 Miles Rich Tinta Negra’ Madeira- The 2000 ‘Rich’ Tinta Negra shows off toffee notes on the nose with roasted hazelnut and coffee ground accents. The palate is dense, lush and full of earthy tones. Still showing good finesse, the 2000 ‘Rich’ shows gobs of salinity and a smooth mouthfeel throughout the drinking experience. Drink 2022-2032- 94

2012 Miles Tinta Negra Madeira- The 2012 ‘Tinta Negra’ shows off creme caramel notes alongside lemon rind and cinnamon dusted brioche on the nose. The palate is soft and ripe with rich orchard and citrus fruit flavors, with plenty of grip and verve. Drink 2022-2032- 91

Chateau Ste. Michelle Acquires A to Z Wineworks

We have some breaking news today out of the Pacific Northwest as Chateau Ste. Michelle Estates has acquired famed value Oregon producer A to Z Wineworks with also includes the Rex Hill brand. This acquisition now makes Chateau Ste. Michelle Estates the largest producer in Oregon.
Vice President of Communications for Chateau Ste. Michelle Estates, Ryan Pennington mentioned "We are incredibly optimistic about the future of Pacific Northwest wines – both Oregon and Washington – and the breadth and depth of our Pacific Northwest portfolio will enable us to introduce new consumers across the country and around the world to the full complement of our region’s outstanding wines."
Huge congrats to both of these outstanding Pacific Northwest wine brands.