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Owen Bargreen

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Nothing quite like some Bollinger with age, this 2002 is absolutely singing.

Champagne Bollinger

September 14, 2022

One of the brilliant historic houses in Champagne, Bollinger was first founded in 1829 in Ay by Hennequin de Villermont, Paul Renaudin and Jacques Bollinger. Today the house continues to be run by members of the Bollinger family. This house has been particularly popular in Britain as Bollinger Champagnes have been come to be known as “Bolly”. It is quite amazing that Bollinger dates back to 1585 when the Hennequins, one of the Bollinger founding families, owned land nearby. Before the Bollinger house was founded, in the 18th century the Villermont family made wine and then 1750, Villermont settled in the location 16 rue Jules Lobet, which would eventually become the head office for Bollinger.

In 1803 Jacques Joseph Placide Bollinger was born in modern day Germany and after moving to the Champagne region he started work at the Champagne house of Muller Ruinart. In 1829 he partnered with Hennequin de Villermont, Paul Levieux Renaudin to form Bollinger in Ay, France. The partners agreed that the Villermont name would not be used on the labels, hence the house name Renaudin Bollinger. Starting when Jacques Bollinger married Charlotte de Villermont, the house has been managed by the Bollinger family. Even though Paul Renaudin passed without an heir to his name, the label did not become solely Bollinger until the 1960s. Founder Jacques had two sons Joseph and Georges that were important in expanding the family estate by purchasing vineyards in nearby villages. The sons also developed the image of the brand, such as when Bollinger received a Royal Warrant in 1884 from Queen Victoria which still appears on their label.

Following the death of Jacques Bollinger in 1941, Lily Bollinger took over the brand and expanded production considerably. Since 1994, Ghislain de Mongolfier has managed Bollinger. A great-grandson of the founder, Mongolfier has also served as president of the Association Viticole Champenoise since 2004, after leading the Commission of Champagne for 10 years. Bollinger has had roles in many James Bond films, including the 1973 film Live and Let Die  where Bond asks for a bottle of Bollinger entering his hotel. In the 1985 film A View to a Kill James Bond notes that his champagne is ‘Bollinger 1975.’

Bollinger produces a great range of Champagnes and is probably best known for their ‘Special Cuvee’ Champagne that is Pinot Noir dominant and includes reserve wines that are up to fifteen years of age. I loved the new NV Bollinger ‘Special Cuvee’ Champagne (OB, 92) which shows brilliant brioche and mustycomponents. Bollinger has gained a sterling reputation for their ‘La Grand Annee’ wines and I have certainly enjoyed many of these over the past few decades. Their new release, the 2014 Bollinger ‘La Grande Annee’ Champagne (OB, 95) is an incredible effort that shows great flavor density and weight, with serious structured. This is big, bold 2014 Champagne that brilliantly showcases this unabashedly rich vintage. Learn more about this famed Champagne house at https://www.champagne-bollinger.com Here are my reviews of the beautiful new releases by Champagne Bollinger.

NV Champagne Bollinger ‘Special Cuvee’ Champagne-  The NV ‘Special Cuvee’ is a compelling blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier which was sourced from almost entirely Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards. Very rich and generous in the glass, this offers lovely musty aromas on the nose with baked green apple, star jasmine and a dusting of white pepper. The palate is big and broad-shouldered, with brilliant underlying finesse. Enjoy now and over the next eight years. Everything is wonderfully in balance here, as this just may be the pinnacle of champagne in this price range. Drink 2022-2030- 92

NV Champagne Bollinger Rose- A downright gorgeous salmon hue, the NV Champagne Bollinger Rose is a lovely blend of 62% Pinot Noir and 24% Chardonnay with 14% Pinot Meunier that was sourced from nearly all Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards. Very tart red fruits combine with salted green melon, sourdough bread and suggestions of green apple on the palate. Refined and elegant, this is beautiful wine to consume now and over the next ten years. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2014 Champagne Bollinger ‘La Grande Anne’ Champagne- The 2014 Champagne Bollinger ‘La Grande Anne’ Champagne is a full-bodied effort that is somewhat reminiscent of the 2012 bottling in terms of overall weight. A blend of 61% Pinot Noir, 39% Chardonnay that was given 8G/L dosage, once on the nose this shows off light musty aromas of white truffle and freshly tilled salty soils, alongside bright Gravenstein apple and lemon rind accents. The palate is plush and full-bodied, showing a gratifying sense of both weight and verve. Finishing long with stony and salty undertones, this is a terrific showing even now at the eight year mark, as the ebullient 2014 Champagne Bollinger ‘La Grande Anne’ Champagne will surely live on for at least another fifteen years — and potentially more. Drink 2022-2037- 95

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