Today we share the amazing wines of Aperture, founded by famed winemaker Jesse Katz. Of course we can’t talk Aperture wines without mentioning the best North American Malbec also produced by Katz and his team, Devil Proof. A chic and modern tasting facility, Aperture is a must-visit for anyone serious about California wine. The dream team of Jesse Katz and Hillary Sjolund have been making some of the best wines in Sonoma.
Katz has worked winemaking jobs spanning the globe including harvests at Pétrus in Bordeaux, as well as time on the winemaking teams at Screaming Eagle Winery and Robert Foley Winery in Napa Valley, and Viña Cobos and Bodega Noemia in Argentina. He was named head winemaker at Lancaster in 2010. Wine Enthusiast named Jesse one of its 40 Under 40 Tastemakers and he was also the first winemaker on the Forbes 30 Under 30 list. He was Wine Enthusiast winemaker of the year last year!
The new wines I tasted were incredible. I adored the 2023 Aperture ‘Del Rio Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 100) which is a stunning, perfect wine made from this slightly cooler vintage. It is a must-taste for any lover of California Cab. Learn more at https://aperture-cellars.com/ and here are my reviews of the new Aperture ‘Collage’ wines.
2023 Aperture ‘Proterra’ Red Wine- The 2023 ‘Proterra’ is a similar blend to the ’22, with 82% Merlot and the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc from the Napa Valley. It comes off inky in the glass, exuding class with its gorgeous core of black currant and black rose petal aromatics that combine with fresh sage, and loamy soils. The palate is beautifully structured and nervy with a firm graphite backbone and refined tannins. Very delicious in its heady youth, enjoy now and over the next twelve plus years to come. Drink 2026-2038- 95
2023 Aperture ‘Oliver Ranch’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2023 ‘Oliver Ranch’ Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from this 3.5 acre location that is set on gravel soils. It is beautifully perfumed, with a serious dark core in the glass. Violets, tar and black licorice all mark the nose alongside suggestions of creme de cassis. The palate is pillowy and soft with a refined texture and glorious sense of weight and length. A complete wine that flirts with perfection and has gorgeous nerve being more tension filled than the ’22 edition. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2026-2042- 99
2023 Aperture ‘SJ Ranch’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2023 ‘SJ Ranch’ is located in the Chalk Hill AVA with vines set on clay loam soils. Stored in all new French oak, this opens with a gorgeous bouquet of mocha, scorched earth and shades of espresso grounds and black tea accents. The palate is thrilling throughout the drinking experience as the loamy soil character shines through an ebullient core of black and blue fruits. Showing amazing pillowy texture, decadence and nerve, this is a total stunner that is a must-try for any lover of Sonoma Cabernet. Enjoy this total heavyhitter over the next twenty years. Drink 2026-2046- 100
2023 Aperture ‘Del Rio Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2023 ‘Del Rio Vineyard’ comes from this unique hillside location that is set on chalky soils, and neighboring famed winery Verite. 100% varietal, this is jet black in the glass, showing off Turkish coffee aromatics that parade with purple rose petals, anise and suggestions of creme de violette on the nose. The palate is seamless throughout the drinking experience, showing some sensational chalky soil undertones that sing in unison with its opulent dark and blue fruit profile. Head-turning and utterly mesmerizing to taste, enjoy now and over the next twenty years to come. Drink 2026-2046- 100