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Owen Bargreen

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Here are some of the gorgeous new wines by Ponzi Vineyards.

Ponzi Vineyards

February 22, 2023

One of the older, outstanding producers in the Willamette Valley, Ponzi Vineyards dates all the way back to the 1960s when Dick and Nancy Ponzi moved their young family to the Willamette Valley on a mission to make top notch Pinot Noir. After many research trips to Burgundy and an extensive search for the ideal location, Dick and Nancy bought 20 acres on a small farm just southwest of Portland, Oregon. There were only a few other farmers growing Pinot Noir back then but Dick and Nancy saw the potential for the varietal in the Northern Willamette Valley. Truly one of the historic producers of Oregon Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Ponzi Vineyards is now under their second generation with director of viticulture and winemaker Luisa Ponzi.

I have really enjoyed these wines over several decades. The new wines come from the 2019 vintage which has ended up being a remarkably good vintage considering the challenges of harvest for Pinot Noir.  Don’t miss out on the 2019 Ponzi ‘Laurelwood District’ Chardonnay (OB, 91) which is an outstanding value that is already beautifully evolved. The 2019 Ponzi ‘Aurora’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) is a knockout in terms of texture and lemon zest notes. Just as good is the 2019 Ponzi ‘Avellana’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which show incredible weight and refinement.  Learn more about these outstanding wines at ponzivineyards.com. Here are the great new wines by Ponzi.

2019 Ponzi ‘Laurelwood District’ Chardonnay- Straightforward and delicious, the 2019 ‘Laurelwood District’ Chardonnay offers brioche and lemon rind flavors alongside shades of buttercream on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2019 Ponzi ‘Avellana’ Chardonnay- The 2019 ‘Avellana’ is sourced from his vineyard which was first planted to Chardonnay Dijon Clonal selections 76 and 96. Ripe honeydew melon, wet stone and suggestions of lemon blossom all fill the nose. The palate is very soft and refined, with a silky texture and wonderful sense of length. Very smooth throughout the drinking experience, enjoy now and over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2019 Ponzi ‘Aurora’ Chardonnay- The 2019 ‘Aurora’ comes form the Laurelwood District as this site was planted back in 1990. A bright gold color in the glass, this offers lemon curd and orange peel notes alongside salted green melon. The palate is smooth with wonderful lemon zest and brioche notes alongside a lengthy finish. With plenty of tension this beauty is singing now and will live on for another decade or more. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2019 Ponzi ‘Alloro’ Chardonnay- This older site was planted to Chardonnay all the way back in 1999. The 2019 ‘Alloro’ Chardonnay is highly concentrated with intense kumquat, white peach and stony minerals on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, with great underlying finesse and a lengthy finish, this is beautiful wine to consume now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2019 Ponzi ‘Laurelwood District’ Pinot Noir- Delicious now at the four year mark, the 2019 Ponzi ‘Laurelwood District’ Pinot Noir offers juicy pomegranate seed, and strawberry flavors alongside shades of wet stone on the palate. This is really good stuff, with a great combination of weight and tension. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2019 Ponzi ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir- Outstanding and especially after an hour in the decanter, the 2019 ‘Reserve’ is a barrel selection wine that comes from a range of districts within the Willamette Valley. The soft mouthfeel is fantastic as layers of cran-pomegranate, leather, freshly tilled salty soils and suggestions of pipe tobacco all amalgamate on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2035- 93

2019 Ponzi ‘Avellana’ Pinot Noir- The seamless and silky 2019 ‘Avellana’ is actually sourced from a field blend of 20 Pinot Noir clones. Soft and supple once on the mouth, this takes on layers of baking spices and blood orange zest that combine with copious minerals, Earl Grey tea leaf, silty soils and suggestions of tart red raspberry on the palate. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2019 Ponzi ‘Aurora’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Aurora’ comes from Pinot Noir vines set on an eastern facing slope in the Laurelwood District. Volcanic and salty soils combine with ripe red fruits, citrus zest and shades of peat moss on the palate. Finishing long with red fruits and minerals, this is very refined Pinot Noir that will easily cellar for another fifteen years. Drink 2023-2038- 93

2019 Ponzi ‘Lazy River’ Pinot Noir- For years I have enjoyed Pinot Noirs from this site which is set on Mt. Richmond in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. The wine shows gorgeous aromas of red rose petals and potpourri alongside freshly tilled sandy soils, black tea and a core of ripe red fruits on the nose. The palate is neatly textured, with great underlying finesse and a silky mouthfeel. Very pure red fruits greet you, as this is already beautifully evolved stuff. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2019 Ponzi ‘Wahle’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Wahle’ comes from this Eola-Amity Hills AVA site which was first planted all the way back in 1999. Tart red fruits combine with a soft mouthfeel on the palate, showing off diatomaceous earth notes and copious minerals on the palate. Shades of citrus zest and bergamot add to the enjoyment, as this beautiful wine is already nicely evolved. Drink 2023-2038- 93

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It was an amazing day at Cadence Winery, hosted by founders Gaye McNutt and Ben Smith.

Cadence Vertical Tasting

February 21, 2023

“We need to do a vertical” Ben Smith proclaimed to me, the last time we were visiting in the summer. “I am game” I said, chomping at the bit to revisit some of the great wines made in Washington State. Cadence was originally known for being the first Washington winery to focus exclusively on red blends. He and his partner, Gaye McNutt, started Cadence together in the late 1990s. It was a time when few people shared his business model. “You go in a wine shop back then and there was no blends section. And that was a marketing challenge when we released our wines” Ben said. “Most restaurants didn’t even have a blend section back then” he explained.

Wine was a love language for Ben and Gaye, who were both entrenched in wine when they began dating in the 90s. “One of our first dates was to pick grapes” Ben stated. “I’ll admit, it was a little weird to be picking grapes on a date” said Gaye. Over time they developed their winemaking style “And now we can taste them today because of that” Gale said. They began creating their wines from the warmest sites in the state, on Red Mountain. This helped them in cooler years such as 2011. Where most wineries struggled with depth, Gaye noted “2011 really suited our style” she said. And when asked what their favorite wines they’ve made over their history? “2011 definitely” they both explained.

It was a true pleasure going back and revisiting these wines. I’ve tasted many of these wines previously either with friends, for review or for my personal collection. The newest wines from the 2014 vintage are absolutely singing. The 2014 ‘Bel Canto’ (OB, 96) shows off heady red and dark fruits, with very pretty florals. This is a joy to drink right now. I really loved the 2012 ‘Bel Canto’ (OB, 96) which is a bit less dense and more towards texture — a touch more Bordelaise. Similarly, the 2011 ‘Bel Canto’ (OB, 94) is singing at its high octave now, a touch leaner than the aforementioned wines but still showing plenty of stuffing with a gliding drinking experience.

The older wines that Ben and Gaye poured were marvelous. I was totally enamored by the 1999 Cadence ‘Red Wine’ (OB, 93) which is silky and elegant with plenty of tertiary notes. A knockout wine from a slightly cooler vintage, the 2004 ‘Bel Canto’ (OB, 96) is one of the great wines that I have tasted from this vintage. It is plush, very refined and elegant now at nearly twenty years.

Many thanks to Ben and Gaye for graciously hosting me and other critics. Here are my reviews of the incredible collection of wines by Cadence (cadencewinery.com).

2021 Cadence Chardonnay- Coming from the Chehalem Mountains AVA, this single vineyard Chardonnay comes off very soft on the mouth with layers of creme brûlée, sweet peach and suggestions ripe Japanese pear with copious minerals. This shows a great combination of weight and length. Drink 2023-2029- 92

2014 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (86%) with the remainder Cabernet Franc, this shows off beautiful black tea and black currant aromas that combine with shades of black olives and black cherry compote. The palate is deep and concentrated with fantastic underlying finesse. This has a great acid backbone, with refined tannins and a wonderful core of dark fruits. This is absolutely singing now. Drink 2023-2040- 95

2014 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- A blend of mostly Cabernet Franc (50%) with 38% Merlot and the remainder Petit Verdot, this offers beautiful red florals that combine with shades of Asian spices, sandalwood and suggestions of boysenberry cordial. This comes off very fresh and pure, with a seamless texture. Finishing long with juicy red and dark fruits, with espresso grounds, this is truly a glorious wine to consume right now. Drink 2023-2040- 96

2012 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- From this very classic vintage, the 2012 ‘Camerata’ is an outstanding blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Cabernet Franc. This shows beautiful pruple rose petals alongside coffee grounds, wild blackberry and hints of chocolate fudge. The palate shows great richness and underlying tension, as this is aging gracefully now — and has a long way to go. Drink 2023-2040- 96

2012 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- The 2012 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ is nearly all Cabernet Franc (84%), as this displays ripe red raspberry and garrigue notes alongside exotic spices and hints of potpourri. The palate is powerful and soft with refined tannins and bright underlying acidity. Pencil lead, violets and espresso grounds combine with the deep core of red and dark fruits. Delicious to consume now, this has decades of life in front of it. Drink 2023-2040- 96

2011 Cadence ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine- Coming from the coolest site that they purchase fruit from, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, the 2011 ‘Ciel du Coeval’ shows a soft mouthfeel on the palate, with bright underlying acidity. Leaner and more herbal than the 2012s or 2014s, this has a nice core of medium-bodied dark fruits with milk chocolate notes. Very balanced, enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2011 Cadence ‘Tapteil’ Red Wine- This comes from this windy, southwestern facing set on Red Mountain. This wine combines 59% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Cabernet Franc and Merlot. This shows better flavor density than the ‘Ciel du Cheval’ with ripe red raspberry and dark currant tones alongside chocolate covered Arabica bean and shades of tar. This is really good now. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2011 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- The 2011 ‘Camerata’ is 79% Cabernet Sauvignon with one barrel each Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Rose water and dark currants combine with scorched earth and sagebrush notes on the palate. This shows good depth and concentration and is really peaking right now. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2011 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- Very herbal on the nose, the 2011 ‘Bel Canto’ combines 84% Cabernet Franc with 8% Merlot and 8% Petit Verdot. Dried mint and shades of tar combine with red florals on the nose. This is very well-balanced and pretty, with good underlying finesse and concentration considering the coolness of the vintage. Drink 2023-2030- 94

2008 Cadence ‘Tapteil’ Red Wine- A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon with the reminder Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this was stored in 40% new French oak before bottling. Right away this shows off its soft mouthfeel with layers of refined tannins. Layers of ripe blackberry and black cherry notes combine with coffee grounds and scorched earth notes. Complex and delicious, with plenty of concentration, enjoy this now and over the next seven plus years to come. Drink 2023-2032- 94

2008 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- The wonderfully alluring 2008 ‘Camerata’ was poured at the White House Thanksgiving dinner in 2011. This is wonderfully herbal on the nose with garrigue notes that combine with milk chocolate and blackberry cobbler. The palate is impeccably balanced, with fantastic underlying finesse and plenty of depth. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon with 13% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot and 4% Merlot. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2006 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- It was back in 1997 that they brought the ten acre ‘Cara Mia’ property on Red Mountain and it wasn’t until 2003 that they were able to get the water rights. This was made with third leaf fruit that was planted in 2004. Black licorice and blackberry pie combine with scorched earth notes and shades of sagebrush. This has salty and savory notes with impeccable balance. Enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2006 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- This beautiful wine has a lower percentage of Cabernet Franc (52%) than normal, with the remainder Merlot. Roasted figs, pencil lead, and red florals all combine on the nose. The palate is soft and refined tannins that frame a beautiful core of red and dark fruits, with tobacco leaf and tar notes. Fantastic now, enjoy this beauty over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2005 Cadence ‘Tapteil’ Red Wine- The vintage had some frost damage to start, which lowered yields. Suggestions of creosote with dense dark fruits combine with dark chocolate shavings and pencil lead all mark the nose. The palate is deep and concentrated with fantastic underlying finesse and serious flavor density. A knockout, this will live on for at least another decade. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2005 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- Very fragrant and pretty on the nose, the 2005 ‘Bel Canto’ combines 50% Cabernet Franc with 42% Merlot and the remainder Petit Verdot. This is the last vintage blending from Klipsun, Ciel Du Cheval and Tapteil. Very supple on the mouth, with fantastic salty undertones, this exudes class with red rose water, graphite, wild blackberry, garrigue and exotic spice notes. A world-class wine that is best consumed now and over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 96

2004 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- The 2004 ‘Bel Canto’ combines 50% Cabernet Franc with 40% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. Rich dates and black tea notes combine on this knockout nose with blackberries, dark rose petals and espresso grounds. The palate is viscous with impeccable balance and great weight considering the coolness of the vintage. Finishing long with dark currants and tilled soils, this elegant wine is drinking marvelously now. Drink 2023-2033- 96

2001 Cadence ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine- A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a large portion of Petit Verdot (15%), it is hard to believe that this wine was made 22 years ago. Bandaid notes and shades of truffle combine wth red currants on the nose. The palate is seamless and soft with refined tannins that frame a pretty core of red fruits. This as some really nice viscosity and tension. Remarkably youthful, enjoy this beauty now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 94

2001 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- Notes of salty soils and white truffle combine with black currant and coffee grounds meld together on the nose. This comes off exceedingly fresh with good flavor density and length, finishing strong with dried herbs, blackberries and copious minerals. Enjoy now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 94

1999 Cadence ‘Reserve’ Red Wine- The ‘Reserve’ was a barrel selection wine that was Cabernet Sauvignon based. Espresso grounds and dark currants combine with loamy soils on the nose. The palate is soft and shows bright acidity with layers of black fruits and salty undercurrents.A blend of Spring Valley, Tapteil and Ciel du Cheval vineyards. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 92

1999 Cadence ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine- Showing a good core, the 1999 Cadence ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this is the first vineyard designate from this vineyard. Right away this displays dusty earth and graphite notes on the nose with shades of black licorice on the nose. Very soft and refined on the mouth, this shows excellent length and weight. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 93

1998 Cadence ‘Spring Valley Vineyard’ Red Wine- Made from 70% Merlot with the remainder Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc that was sourced from third leaf fruit. Very soft on the mouth, this delivers refined tannins that combine with red licorice, red cherry and raspberry notes, with freshly tilled soils. Fresh and refined, enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 92

1998 Cadence ‘Tapteil’ Red Wine- Ben Smith had been using this vineyard site since the 1994 vintage. 49% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller portions Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. This is very fresh and concentrated with a good core of dark fruits, with tobacco leaf and coffee grounds. This is really good to consume right now. Drink 2023-2028- 93

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Beautiful capture of Blackboard Wines winemaker Soren Dietz.

Blackboard Wines

February 17, 2023

As you probably know, one of my jobs is to share the wines of the world that are not only delicious to consume, but also exude value. An exciting brand with some serious potential, Blackboard is from the Matthews family of wines which is run by the Otis family. In early January of 2022 Blackboard announced the hiring of a new winemaker, Soren Dietz. Soren Dietz. Soren comes from the Napa Valley, having previous stints at Paul Hobbs and Faust, as well as other wineries in Australia.

They also announced that they had invested $450,000.00 back into the local farming community which is pretty impressive. Blackboard is a brand that gives back and they have mentioned that the more wines that are purchased, the more they donate back into educational non-profits. Blackboard has partnered with Winebow in Washington and is also available now  in 18 other states. In terms of tasting these, they are being poured at the Jaine Tasting Room in Woodinville.

I think that these wines will be a bit with the consumer and I was certainly impressed with the inaugural wines by Soren Dietz. Do not miss out on the 2020 Blackboard Red Wine (OB, 92) which is a delicious wine that is best consumed over the next few years. This impresses most with balance, as you can really see the moving pieces here, showing no rough edges. Learn more about these great value wines at blackboardwines.com and here are my reviews of the new 2020 Blackboard wines.

2020 Blackboard Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming fro the Soaring Eagle, McNary and Four Feathers Vineyards, this blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon with 11% Merlot and 3% Pete Verdot was aged for three months in 60% new French oak before bottling. Ripe black plum with cocoa powder and suggestions of baking spices all come together on the palate, with bright underlying acidity. Enjoy this really good value now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2020 Blackboard Red Wine- The excellent 2020 Blackboard Red Wine combines 63% Cabernet Sauvignon with 34% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot. Stored in 60% new French oak for three months, this offers medium-bodied red cherry candy, dates, and cloves alongside coffee ground underpinnings on the palate. Very soft, clean and balanced, this is delicious stuff where everything comes together very neat and tidy. Great in the short-term this is a massive success considering the challenges of the vintage. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2020 Blackboard Merlot- This 2020 Merlot has 17% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot blended in. Coming from the Soaring Eagle, McNary and Four Feathers vineyards, this shows off medium-bodied red raspberry, black tea and garrigue notes on the palate, with hints of Arabica bean. Enjoy this excellent value Merlot now and over the next five years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

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Here are the beautiful new Perez Pascuas wines.

Bodega Hnos. Perez Pascuas

February 17, 2023

If you have ever had the chance to visit the Ribera del Duero region, it is a mountainous site to be seen. Wind-swept vineyards greet you as this charming area is not only worlds behind in wine tourism but you will visit wineries without any other guests. There are also beautiful lodging options in this region known for earthy and rich Tempranillo wines. Many of the wines from this region are either 100% Tempranillo or have 10% or less of Cabernet Sauvignon blended in.

Bodega Hnos. Perez Pascuas is a historic site in the Ribera, crafting earthy and layered Tempranillo wines that will stand the test of time. I recently had the chance to visit this beautiful lineup and was completely blown away across the board. Look to the 2015 Bodega Hnos. Perez Pascuas ‘El Pedrosal Reserva’ Ribera del Duero (OB, 93) which is astonishingly good to consume now. Learn more about these great Ribera del Duero wines at Here are the outstanding new release wines by Bodegas Hnos. Perez Pascuas.

2020 Bodegas Hnos. Perez Pascuas ‘El Pedrosal Crianza’ Ribera del Duero- The 100% Tempranillo ‘El Pedrosal Crianza’ by Vina Pedrosa offers wonderful damp earthy and truffle notes on the nose alongside shades of boysenberry jam. The palate is fresh and viscous with a soft texture and great sense of length. Very strong with its intensity and citrus notes, this is a fantastic wine that is already beautifully evolved and will provide drinking enjoyment over the next eight plus years.This is seriously good in its youth and will continue to evolve over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2015 Bodegas Hnos. Perez Pascuas ‘El Pedrosal Reserva’ Ribera del Duero- The 2015 Bodegas Hnos. Perez Pascuas ‘El Pedrosal’ is a downright brilliant effort from this warm vintage in Ribera. On the nose this takes on graphite and tilled stony and salty soils that combine with a great core of dark fruits. The palate shows fantastic tension and a light dusting of salinity that falls on the black cherry and black raspberry flavors alongside shades of kumquat zest. Really gratifying now, enjoy over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2035- 93

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Here are the beautiful new wines by Top Source.

Top Source

February 16, 2023

Get to know fellow Whitman grad and Washingtonian, Meredith Hyslop. Despite her youthful appearance she has been in the wine business in Walla Walla Valley since back when there were a mere 25 existing wineries in the region. After studying Enology and Viticulture at the Walla Walla Institute she moved to France to study in Dijon. Her studies brought her to the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France where she worked for 12 years. Upon her return to her home state, she decided to start her own winery to showcase the premium quality of her home state at a competitive price point.

Founded in 2020, This is now the third chance I have had to taste these delicious wines by Top Source. They are stony, with beautiful texture and underlying finesse — very Cayuseesque. Learn more about this new producer at https://www.skurnik.com/producer/top-source/ and here are my reviews of the outstanding new Top Source wines.

2022 Top Source ‘Columbia Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc- Very fresh and beautifully textured, the 2022 Top Source ‘Columbia Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc offers papaya and gooseberry flavors alongside a soft mouthfeel and beautiful underlying finesse. Medium-bodied, enjoy now and over the next five years. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2020 Top Source Columbia Valley Red Wine- Outstanding in this challenging vintage, the 2020 Top Source Red Wine combines 60% Grenache with the remainder Syrah. This quite honestly smells like a Cayuse wine. The range of aromatics is really outstanding with Umami, hoisin sauce, wet stone, black truffle crudo and suggestions of boysenberry sauce. The palate is beautifully textured, with fantastic finesse and length. The combination of weight, finesse and flavor/aromatic range is downright stunning. Do not sleep on this beauty. Drink 2023-2030- 95

2020 Top Source ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah- This is another fantastic effort in 2020 by Top Source, as the 2020 Top Source ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah delivers very stony notes once on the mouth, alongside shades of citrus rind, potpourri water and shades of black raspberry and a dusting of white pepper. Soft and supple on the mouth, this tastes very Cayuse and comes off clean — and trust me, you will love it! Enjoy this over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2030- 94

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Here I am enjoying a cocktail with winemaker and founder Chris Upchurch of Upchurch Vineyard.

Upchurch Vineyard

February 16, 2023

Not only one of my favorite wineries to visit but one of the finest producers on Red Mountain, Upchurch Vineyard is a sight to be seen. Located in the southwestern part of the AVA, the winery has expansive views of the Columbia Valley from their estate create an incredible panoramic effect. For those who have never visited Upchurch Vineyard, I implore you to visit if nothing else for the beauty of the site.

One of the legends in Washington wine, Chris Upchurch crafted the finest Bordeaux style white wine for DeLille, the ‘Chaleur Estate Blanc’ in the mid-1990s. This wine has achieved incredible acclaim since that time and not only is one of the great white wines made in Washington but it rivals any Bordeaux Blanc style wines made in the new world.

Chris crafts one of the great Sauvignon Blancs in Washington, his 2020 Upchurch Vineyard ‘Southwest Facing’ Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 93) has an amazing combination of finesse and texture. It is a steal at under 40 dollars. Equally good for the price at under 30 dollars is the new 2021 LTL Rose (OB, 92) which is made from Mourvedre grapes and is nearly impossible to put down .I love the new 2020 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) which is clean and dense — a massive success from this challenging vintage. Learn more about this fantastic winery at https://upchurchvineyard.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Upchurch Vineyard.

2020 Upchurch Vineyard ‘Southwest Facing’ Sauvignon Blanc- This beautiful 2020 Sauvignon Blanc was sourced from the Boushey Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. Stored for eighteen months in concrete egg tanks, this offers white peach, toasted cashew nut and saline drenched gooseberry notes that all sing in unison. The palate is rich and concentrated with a seamless texture and generous length. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next seven plus years. Drink 2022-2029- 93

2021 LTL Rose- Made from Moruvedre grapes, the 2021 LTL Rose is a delightful new bottling that shows outstanding finesse and concentration. Once on the attack a kiss of sweetness greets you, as guava puree, cranberry, red rose water and flinty minerals combine with shades of wild mushroom on the palate. Outstanding to consume now, this will hold for at least another five years. Drink 2022-2027- 92

2020 LTL Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 LTL Cabernet Sauvignon is an exceptionally made wine from this challenging vintage on Red Mountain. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Upchurch Estate Vineyard, this opens with beautiful black florals alongside tar and rich dark currant tones on the nose. The palate is soft and inviting with a smooth texture. Layres of roasted dates combine with boysenberry syrup and milk chocolate on the palate. Enjoy this outstanding value now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2020 LTL ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Very dense and dark once in the glass, the delicious 2020 LTL ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon delivers Black Forest Cake tones alongside tar and anise on the nose. The palate is rich and refined with silky tannins that line the core of black and blue fruits with espresso grounds and scorched earthy undertones. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2020 Upchurch Vineyard ‘Counterpart’ Merlot- The 2020 Upchurch Vineyard ‘Counterpart’ is a beautiful effort from this challenging vintage. The Merlot blends in Red Mountain 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, as this was carefully stored in 94% New French Oak (Taransaud & Orion) prior to bottling. Intense red florals and Asian spices mark the nose alongside cassis, worn leather and notes of scorched earth. The palate comes off very clean and fresh, with no rough edges. You are greeted to medium to full-bodied red and dark fruit flavors that meld well with milk chocolate, tobacco leaf and espresso grounds. While outstanding to consume now, this is gorgeous Merlot that will easily cellar well or another decade. But why wait? Drink 2023-2032- 93

2020 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon- A resounding success in 2020, this is now the eleventh edition of this wine which is entirely from the Upchurch Estate Vineyard, a small site located in the southwestern part of Red Mountain. Like the 2019, this blends 90% Cabernet Sauvignon with the reminder Merlot. Aged in 100% new Taransaud oak barrels, this shows off toasty oak with pencil lead aromas alongside huckleberry compote, dark chocolate shavings and Turkish coffee notes. The palate is rich and voluptuous, with a silky texture and beautiful structure, showing refined tannins. This is exactly what a top winemaker can do in a difficult vintage. With great viscosity and flavor density, this beauty will show well for at least another fifteen years. Give this an hour in the decanter if enjoying now. Drink 2023-2038- 95

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Here are the stunning new Cabernet wines by Frank Family Vineyards.

Frank Family Vineyards

February 15, 2023

Frank Family Vineyards

Year after year Frank Family Vineyards is one of the great overall lineups of wine that you will taste in the Napa Valley, first founded back in 1992 by Rich and Leslie Frank. Rich Frank is former President of Disney Studios. A world-traveller, Frank knew that Napa Valley was the perfect setting to start a winery. Rich had an incredibly successful career and under his leadership, television and movie properties such as Cheers, Entertainment Tonight, Golden Girls, Ellen, Dead Poet’s Society, Pretty Woman, Aladdin, and The Lion King achieved worldwide acclaim. Rich also is the longest serving President of The Academy of Television Arts and Sciences (Emmys).

Leslie also had an incredibly successful career, spending more than 25 years covering news stories, and the last nine years of her TV news career reporting and anchoring at the number-one-rated station, KABC in Los Angeles. Prior to Los Angeles, Leslie was the main anchor at KCPQ, the FOX affiliate in Seattle, where she helped launch its 10 pm newscast, taking it to number one in its time slot and receiving an Emmy for Outstanding News Anchor. Rich and Leslie are fully invested in Frank Family Vineyards' as they manage everything from vineyard purchases, to sales and marketing.

For years I have been so impressed by the wines made by winemaker Todd Graff who started with Frank Family back in 2003.  He has done an immense job by helping put Napa Chardonnay on the national stage with the wines that he crafts. Do not miss out on his new 2021 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Napa Valley’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is rich and viscous with great underlying finesse. The best wine that I tasted was the outrageously good 2019 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Patriarch’ Red Wine (OB, 97) which is dense, chewy and will shine on for decades to come. Learn more about these brilliant new wines at frankfamilyvineyards.com Here are my reviews of the great new wines by Frank Family Vineyards.

2021 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Carneros’ Chardonnay- The 2021 ‘Carneros’ Chardonnay by Frank Family is a truly outstanding effort by winemaker Todd Graff. Japanese pear, cardamom dusted brioche and suggestions of vanilla creme brûlée all fill the palate, with serious stuffing and underlying minerality. This really fantastic stuff for the price to enjoy now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Carneros’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 Frank Family ‘Carneros’ Pinot Noir is a delicious bottling from this new vintage. Sassafras, red currants and shades of dill with baking spices all fill the nose. The palate is soft and refined with silky tannins and marvelous red fruit-driven concentration. This gets better with more air and enjoy now and over the next ten years. this beautiful wine is best enjoyed over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2023-2033- 92

2019 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 Frank Family Vineyards “Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon  a plush and soft edition of this wine that shows baking spices, dark plum and cigar box tones on the nose. The palate is very delicious and rich with light tannins that frame a core of black cherry, black raspberry and chocolate flavors. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next ten years. Drink 2023-2033- 92

2019 Frank Family Vineyards ‘RHF’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 ‘RHF’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a glorious effort from this great vintage for Cabernet Sauvignon. Immediately alluring on the nose, this takes on layers of Christmas fruitcake with wild blackberry, sweet pipe tobacco and suggestions of chocolate covered coffee bean. The palate is plush with great concentration and a deep core of black fruits that parade with freshly tilled soils, menthol and Turkish coffee notes. Finishing long with minerals and plush black fruits, this is a beautiful wine that shows nice elegance and aging potential. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2019 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Winston Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outrageously good 2019 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Winston Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a gorgeous blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc with a splash of Petit Verdot. Once on the mouth this revels in its big bold black fruit tones alongside blueberry compote, mocha and anise notes alongside very refined tannins. Finishing with serious length, this exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon is already beautifully evolved stuff that will live on for decades. Drink 2024-2045- 96

2019 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Patriarch’ Cabernet Sauvignon- One of the great wines that I have tasted from Frank Family, the stunning 2019 ‘Patriarch’ was stored for 21 months in 75% new French oak barrels prior bottling. Very soft and approachable on the mouth, with refined tannins, this is silky, elegant and very rich Cabernet that is quite simply a joy to drink. Boysenberry preserves combine with espresso grounds, creme de violette, spice box and shades of black licorice all enter the fray on the palate. Powerful yet quite refined, this beauty will live on for decades to come. Be sure to give this two hours in the decanter if enjoying now. Drink 2025-2047- 97

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The Washington wine world will all mourn the loss of Kathy Shiels.

In Memoriam: Kathy Shiels, Co-Founder of Cote Bonneville

February 14, 2023

You had to know Kathy to chat with her. She didn’t love small talk but she adored talking about wine. Passionate, thoughtful and genuine, Kathy was extremely gracious to me when I started reviewing wines full-time. Several times I tasted with her face to face in her Sunnyside winery. I will cherish those moments that I had with her.

Kathy had a great career prior to starting a winery with her husband Hugh. Born in 1950 in Minneapolis, Minnesota, Kathy played basketball in high school and later graduated with a degree in physical therapy from the University of Missouri.

She made the plunge and set out for Los Angeles after college where she met her husband Hugh Shiels, M.D. After Hugh completed medical school and his residency they both settled in the Yakima Valley where Kathy worked as a physical therapist in Hugh’s orthopedic surgery practice. She and Hugh Founded the DuBrul Vineyard back in 1992 and later Cote Bonneville winery. She is one of the pioneers of Washington wine and she will be greatly missed by all of the Washington wine community and all that knew and loved her.

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Here are the outstanding new releases by Chappellet.

Chappellet

February 13, 2023

Today we share one the great producers of the Napa Valley. Founded by wine pioneer Donn Chappellet, Donn began his wine education by collecting Bordeaux wines while in college. He later ran Interstate United Corporation, a coffee-vending distributorship he co-founded in the mid-1950s, which he helped turn into the third-largest such business in the United States, with more than 7,000 employees and a listing on the New York Stock Exchange.

In 1966 he sold his shares in Interstate United and guided by the legendary winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff of Beaulieu Vineyards bought 320 acres of rocky mountain terrain at the eastern edge of the Napa Valley. Donn saw this terroir as one which would connect with the great wines of Bordeaux. He saw the potential for Pritchard Hill and initially planted Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon which was met with great critical acclaim. Sadly passing in 2016, Donn became a legend of this great site in the Napa Valley.

A mainstay in the cellar, famed winemaker Phillip Corallo-Titus has been at Chappellet remarkably since 1990. A graduate of UC Davis, Phillip spent time traveling to both Bordeaux and Burgundy to learn about these esteemed regions. In 1981, Phillip joined the Chappellet team as assistant winemaker, and then in1990, Donn Chappellet invited Phillip to return to the winery as Chappellet’s winemaker, a position he has held ever since.

These have been consistently great wines. I adored the new 2021 Chappellet ‘Grower Collection Apple Lane Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is fresh and has tons of bright acidity and rich red fruit flavors. Even better is the sensational 2019 Chappellet ‘Napa Valley’ Merlot (OB, 95 which is a downright steal at eighty bucks. Learn more about this famed Napa estate at chappellet.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Chappellet. 

2021 Chappellet ‘Grower Collection Apple Lane Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This 2021 Pinot Noir is sourced from a site that is located roughly nine miles from the Pacific Ocean. Salty and savory on the nose, this shows tart red fruits alongside kumquat and stony undercurrents. The palate is rich and concentrated, with fantastic underlying finesse. This beauty has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2035- 94

2019 Chappellet ‘Napa Valley’ Merlot- This enthralling ‘Napa Valley’ Merlot has 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Malbec and 3% Petit Verdot blended in. Aged for 22 months in 40% new French oak, this delivers wonderful concentration from this outstanding vintage. Layers of pipe tobacco and graphite are woven together with mocha, and dark chocolate covered black cherry on the palate. A stunner, with impeccable balance, and so good to enjoy now, this will surely live on for another fifteen years. We know that Cab is king but this beauty gives Cab a run for its money. Drink 2023-2040- 95

2019 Chappellet ‘Napa Valley’ Malbec- You won’t find a lot of single varietal Malbec wines from the Napa Valley. This has a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot blended in. Very dark in the glass, this displays a dizzying array of mocha, tar, anise, blackberry cobbler and creosote. Enjoy now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2040- 93

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Here is the enticing new 2020 Cava Maestros Rose.

Cava Mestres

February 10, 2023

Cava Mestres

One of the famed houses in Cava, Mestres is a house that dates all the way back to 1312. As I have said many times, top Cava can rival any sparkling wine in the world. It is a wine all its own and most of the United States does not have the opportunity to taste premier Cava bottlings. The Mestres family dates back the early fourteenth century as a wine negotiants.  They have also owned estate vineyards in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia since at least 1607. Many years later in 1925  Josep Mestres Manobens made his first sparkling wine by blending indigenous varietals Macabeu, Xarel-lo, and Parellada.

Joan Aura serves as cellar master winemaker. They currently source from their 74 acre estate, which is divided into two plots: Clos Damiana and Clos Nostre Senyor as well as some area vineyards. Their vineyard is set on calcareous clay soils. This winery is a must visit. The Cava town of Sadurni d’Antonia is a charming setting roughly one hour from Barcelona. Mestres give their sparkling wines extended time (18 months to 7 years) on the lees in bottle, which contributes to the complexity of the wines. During our cellar tour we had a chance to see some of their wines that have date back fifty years. Like many of Spain’s most celebrated houses, Mestres prides themselves at aging their wines and releasing them when they find them ready. While visiting I was able to view the disgorgement process as well as some bottling while we were there and I was amazed at the attention to detail as the cellar master inspects each individual bottle, regardless of price. They are truly a storied house in sparkling wine. Do not miss on the killer value at around 20 dollars, the 2020 Mestres ‘1312’ Rose Cava (OB, 92) which is sinfully good for the price with bright red fruits and citrus tones. Learn more about this storied winery at http://www.mestres.es/?lang=en Here are the great new wine by Cava Mestres.

2020 Cava Mestres ‘1312 Rose’ Cava- A gorgeous blend of mostly Treppat (50%) with the remainder Monastrell and Pinot Noir, the ‘1311 Rose’ was disgorged in May 2022. This outstanding wine was aged for 2.5 years on the less and was given 6G/L dosage. Dusty soil aromas combine with shades of crushed seashell, orange rind and suggestions of ripe red raspberry all fill the nose. The palate is very fresh and fragrant with a soft mousse. Layers of wild mushroom are woven together with juicy red fruits, with shades of menthol and salty soils on the palate. Complex and delicious now, this will easily cellar for another eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 92

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Here are the world-class wines by Doubleback.

Doubleback

February 9, 2023

One of the all-time greats in Washington State Wine, Doubleback is the famed winery founded by NFL legend, Drew Bledsoe and his wife, Maura. The story completes itself as Drew circled back following his brilliant NFL career. Originally from Walla Walla, he was a star at Walla Walla High School before his illustrious tenure at Washington State University. For many years Drew had visions of starting his own winery for many years and going back to Walla Walla was the perfect choice for him. During his years in the NFL he continued to expand his palate, trying various wines of the world. But there was something special about wines from his home state, as he grew to love the balance of the wines of this region that weren’t old world but also weren’t Napa.

It was back in 2007 that Drew returned to Walla Walla to plant his estate vineyard, McQueen on the southern end of the Walla Walla Valley AVA. Doubleback was born in 2008 which would focus on estate fruit to create world class Cabernet Sauvignon from Walla Walla. Drew knew he needed a top class winemaker and connected with childhood friend and superstar winemaker, Chris Figgins, of Leonetti Cellar, who served as consulting winemaker until Josh McDaniels assumed the role in 2015. Josh is one of the finest talents in the state. The wines that he has made are consistently great, year after year.

I am enamored by the 2018 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) which is a marvelous effort from this challenging vintage. Even better is the sensational 2021 Doubleback Merlot (OB, 96) which is the finest Merlot I have tasted from this property. Heady and deep, with serious concentration, this beauty will go on for decades to come. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.doubleback.com/ and here are my reviews of the gorgeous new 2023 spring release wines by Doubleback.

2021 Doubleback Merlot- It is such a pleasure to enjoy this outstanding Walla Walla Merlot by Doubleback that blends in 6% Cabernet Franc. The wine spent 18 months in 2,000L Stockinger ovals and new and neutral French oak barrels prior to bottling. It is very sappy and rich on the mouth with a silky mouthfeel and glorious length. Seamless red and dark fruit flavors march on with tobacco leaf, tilled loamy soils and suggestions of chocolate cake. A total home-run from this 2021 vintage, this warm and generous Merlot is shockingly good to consume now — and will hold steadily for at least another fifteen years to come. Drink 2023-2038- 96

2020 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon- This is my first soiree into this wine since I tasted out of barrel with winemaker Josh McDaniels. The 2020 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon is a dense and highly-structured blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 3% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot. It really needs a 1-2 hour decant to show its full range of flavors and aromatics. Violets with espresso bean aromas combine with shades of black tea and blackberry jam on the nose. The palate is very soft and refined with serious elegant and a weightless texture. Very clean throughout the drinking experience, with no smoke influence, enjoy this beauty now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2020 Doubleback ‘Estate Reserve’ Red Wine- A very different blend than the 2018 bottling, the 2020 ‘Estate Reserve’ combines 87% Cabernet Sauvignon (rather than 75% in the ‘18), with 10% Petit Verdot (2% in the ’18) and the remainder Merlot that was sourced from the McQueen and Lefore vineyards. Stored for 22 months in 81% new French oak barrels, this shows of an extremely inky core with green bell pepper notes from the PV, alongside black licorice, dark chocolate shavings and huckleberry pie. The heady aromas bring you back to the glass for more indulgence. The palate comes off very weightless, and very clean with no rough edges. Sensational to savor now, with its powerful core of black and blue fruits, this hedonistic gem of a wine will cellar well for at least another fifteen years. Give this at least an hour in the decanter if savoring right now. Drink 2023-2040- 97

LAST YEARS RELEASES:

2020 Doubleback Chardonnay- Sourced from the McQueen, Flying B and Kenny Hill Vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley, this was stored for eighteen months in a combination of new and used French oak prior to bottling in January 2022. This is a layered, nearly impossible to put down Chardonnay with no smoke influence and no rough edges. Once poured it shows off its brilliant, golden hue in the glass. Seamless on the mouth, this delivers lovely salted Macadamia nut tones alongside buttered brioche, banana and roasted pineapple, with underlying tension. As stated before, Josh McDaniels is making quite possibly the finest Chardonnay in Washington. Try to get your hands on this incredible, very Kongsgaard vs. Washington Chardonnay if you can. Only 91 cases produced. Drink 2022-2030- 95

2019 Bledsoe Family Winery Cabernet Sauvignon- The really good 2019 Bledsoe Family Winery Cabernet Sauvignon is very inky once in the glass. Aged for 22 months in 57% new French oak, this Cabernet Sauvignon has 15% Merlot blended in with a dash of Malbec and Cabernet Fanc. Shades of sandalwood and allspice surround a core of ripe dark fruits, chocolate and sagebrush accents on the nose. The palate is very herbal but comes off with plenty of mouthfeel and texture. Showing good verve and concentration, enjoy over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2020 Doubleback Merlot- The 100% varietal 2019 Doubleback Merlot comes from the Figgins, McQueen, LeFore and Flying B vineyards. Stored in new and neural oak barrels for seventeen months before batting in January 2022, this offers Earl Grey tea, cocoa powder dusted black cherry and roasted dates on the nose. The palate is soft and inviting, as this effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Rich red and dark fruits collide with copious minerals and suggestions of chocolate cake. With no smoke influence, this shows bright acidity and refined tannins that hold everything brilliantly in place. This is quite simply a masterpiece in a vintage that was hard for many. Already beautifully evolved, give this an hour of air prior to consuming and enjoy over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 95

2019 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon- The beautiful new 2019 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from the McQueen, LaFore, Bob Healy and Figgins vineyards. Stored for 23 months in a combination of new and neural French oak barrels before batting in August 2021, this Cabernet Sauvignon has small portions of Malbec, Petit Verdot and Malbec blended in. Needing some air to be fully aroused, this delivers sagebrush, mocha and scorched earth notes with heady dark fruits that sing in unison on the nose. The beautiful range of aromas brings you back to the glass for more. Very refined on the mouth, this comes off more herbal than other vintages, but has plenty of dense dark fruits to gratify. Arabica bean notes and creme de cassis notes meld well with firm tannins and good freshness that hold things in place. Finishing long, this is very refined and nuanced Cabernet Sauvignon that will surely hold well for another fifteen plus years. Give this at least an hour in the decanter if enjoying now. Drink 2022-2038- 95

2019 Doubleback ‘Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Reserve’ Red Wine has a very large portion of Petit Verdot (25%) added to 72% Cabernet Sauvignon and a touch of Merlot. Stored in a combination of Italian concrete vessels and new French oak for 23 months, this limited production red blend really needs an hour of air prior to enjoying. It comes off very dense and hedonistic with graphite, green bell pepper, anise, tobacco leaf and intense dark fruit flavors. The expression of Petit Verdot here is gorgeous. This shows really good weight and tension with beautiful length. Intense and very gratifying, this heady, red blend will hold well for another twenty years to come. Drink 2023-2040- 96

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Here are the outstanding new white wines by Nine Hats.

Nine Hats

February 8, 2023

Today we share one of the outstanding value producers in the Pacific Northwest. Nine Hats is the brainchild of the Long Shadows project, as all Nine Hats wines are crafted in Walla Walla by famed winemaker Gilles Nicault. The idea was to craft delicious and highly approachable wines that are value everyday wines. These wines come from some of the same acclaimed vineyards as the Long Shadows wines, but they are made to be easier to drink and more geared towards everyday consumption. They have been on innumerable restaurant lists as glass pours because they are wines that consistently offer fantastic QPR.

The new set of releases are the finest overall that I have tasted. I adored the new 2021 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Pinot Gris (OB, 91) which is ripe and shows beautiful texture at a mere 15 dollars retail. The best wine I tasted (and the best Nine Hats wine I have ever tasted) was the 2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah (OB, 93) which is really like a baby Sequel. The flavor range and viscosity here is truly outstanding. Learn more about these outstanding wines at ninehatswines.com and here are my reviews of the new Nine Hats wines.

2020 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Chardonnay- Very crisp and smooth, the 2020 Nine Hats Chardonnay offers buttered French bread and ripe pear notes on the nose with suggestions of green papaya on the nose. The palate is soft and enticing with a silky mouthfeel and good length. Enjoy this 100% varietal bottling now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2021 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Pinot Gris- A downright killer value coming from this warm vintage in the Columbia Valley, the 2021 Nine Hats Pinot Gris offers straightforward Japanese pear, white peach and juicy starfruit flavors that combine with a smooth texture once on the mouth. Finishing clean with minerals and ripe orchard fruits, this is a clear winner. Only 15 dollars retail. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2021 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Riesling- Another awesome wine in this new Nine Hats lineup, the 2021 Riesling shows wet stone and light petrol notes on the palate, with sweetened gooseberry tones. Medium-bodied and showing a fantastic sense of texture, this is really outstanding stuff for the price. The combination of mouthfeel and lip-smacking acidity really makes this tick. Drink 2023-2027- 91

2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Sangiovese- Very soft and polished, the 2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Sangiovese offers ripe red fruit flavors with tobacco leaf, leather and milk chocolate undercurrents. Medium to full-bodied, and exceedingly well-balanced, this is an outstanding value that would pair magically with a range of roasted meats. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot- Also very soft and refined, the 2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot was mostly stored from the Benches Vineyard, Aged 18 months in 70% neutral new oak barrels this revels in its silky texture once on the mouth. Mocha, black currants and cedar notes combine on the palate with a bright mineral backbone. This is seriously good for the price. Enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Malbec- The 2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Malbec comes from the Wahluke Slope AVA, as this was stored for 18 months in 70% neutral oak barrels before bottling. It is very inky in the glass, displaying mocha, tar, dark currants and sweet pipe tobacco notes alongside a bright sense of tension. You will love this wine that exudes both class and value. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah- The outstanding 2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah comes off as a ‘Baby Sequel’ with its outstanding range of aromas and flavors. Bacon fat and garrigue notes combine with tilled soils and copious dark fruits on the nose. The palate is rich and dense with plenty of underlying finesse. As is, the wine is exceedingly difficult to put down once opened with its dense figs, boysenberry and dark cherry notes alongside hints of dark chocolate. Enjoy now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 93

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Here is the drop-dead gorgeous 2012 ‘La Grand Dame’ Champagne.

Veuve Clicquot 'La Grand Dame' Champagne

February 7, 2023

One of the oldest houses in Champagne, Veuve Clicquot dates all the way back to 1772. Located in Reims, the house matriarch, Madame Clicquot, is known for crafting the first vintage champagne in 1810 as well as creating the riddling process to clarify champagne years later. She also created the first Rose champagne — and we are all so glad that she did.

Veuve Cliquot created their top wine, the ‘La Grand Dame’ Champagne in Madame Cliquot’s honor. Today, ‘La Grand Dame’ is one of the most famous of the tete de cuvees. I fondly recall epic vintages of this wine dating back to the 1990 which lives long in my memory. Only made in great vintages, the ‘La Grand Dame’ was last made in 2006 and in 2008. The new edition from 2012 might be better than those editions. It is a masterclass that really needs a bit of time in the decanter to fully be aroused, but you will see that its complexity, density and underlying verve make this a highly age-worthy effort that will live on for at least another fifteen years to come. Learn more at https://www.veuveclicquot.com/en-au/our-champagne/la-grande-dame-2012 and here is my review of the fabulous 2012 ‘La Grand Dame’ Champagne.

2012 Veuve Clicquot ‘La Grand Dame’ Champagne- Given 6G/L dosage, the sensational 2012 Veuve Clicquot ‘La Grand Dame’ Champagne is nearly all Pinot Noir (90%) with the remainder Chardonnay. This iconic wine is showing a bit better than the last edition of this wine (2008). Benefiting from a 20 minute decant, the 2012 ‘La Grand Dame’ displays a dizzying array of ripe orchard fruits, lemon oil, cardamom dusted brioche and shades of fresh ginger on the palate. A stunning wine now, brimming with serious poise and weight, this should live on for at least another fifteen years. Drink 2023-2038- 96

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Here is the outstanding 2021 ‘Memoire’ by Kevin White.

Kevin White

February 7, 2023

It was a bustling winter afternoon in Woodinville. I opened the door to Kevin White Winery and a lively holiday crowd had gathered for their winter wine club party. My friend, Tan Vinh, and I thoroughly enjoyed tasting through the new releases — and savored some of their really good library wines from the 2015 vintage. Kevin White Winery was founded twelve years ago back in 2010. Inspired by the wines of the Rhone Valley, Kevin sought to learn more and more about wine, taking classes in chemistry, microbiology and enology. Kevin started making his wines at nearby Baer before opening his tasting room in the warehouse district of Woodinville.

Taking with Kevin, he was very bullish on his wines from the 2019 and 2020 vintages — years that were relatively hard for winemakers to navigate due to the freeze of 2019 and smoke conditions of 2020. I have little doubt that Kevin has commanded these conditions really well. His wines show good finesse and a seamless quality from beginning to end. I love the new 2021 Kevin White ‘Memoire’ White Wine (OB, 92) which shows great underlying finesse with plenty of richness. Even better is the sensational 2020 Kevin White ‘Pionnier’ Grenache (OB, 94) which has outstanding range and deftly depicts the sheer beauty of Boushey Vineyard Grenache. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://www.kevinwhitewinery.com Here are the great new wines by Kevin White.

2021 Kevin White ‘Memoire’ White Wine- A southern Rhone-inspired blend of Roussanne (85%) and Grenache Blanc (15%) from the Boushey and Olsen Vineyards, this is fresh and marvelously textured, with a serious underlying stony minerality. Ripe cantaloupe and Japanese pear flavors collide with lighter flinty and citrus rind undertones. Enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2020 Kevin White ‘Pionnier Boushey Vineyard’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Pioneer’ blends 85% Grenache with 15% Mourvedre which was all sourced from the Boushey Vineyard. Translucent in the glass, this offers really good range on the nose. Smoked meats collide with white pepper dusted red fruits, kumquat zest and suggestions of Earl Grey tea. The palate is rich and concentrated, drinking very seamless and plump on the mouth. Very pure in its red fruit character, this is absolutely delicious wine to consume now and over the next seven years. Drink 2022-2029- 94

2019 Kevin White ‘Les Terrasses Weathereye Vineyard’ Grenache- Extremely translucent and very Pinotesque once in the glass, the 2019 ‘Les Terrasses’ Grenche comes from the high elevation northern slopes on Red Mountain which is managed by Ryan Johnson. Flinty and fresh once on the mouth, this delivers a gorgeous range of red fruit flavors, with yarrow, sagebrush and white pepper dusted bacon flavors on the palate. Generous and showing good verve, enjoy now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2022-2030- 94

2020 Kevin White ‘La Fraternite’ Red Wine- Entirely coming from the Yakima Valley, the 2020 ‘La Fraternite’ blends mostly Grenache (62%) with smaller parts Mourvèdre and Syrah. Garrigue notes collide with red raspberry coulis, black peppercorns and suggestions of roasted lamb. The palate is soft and very plush, showing no rough edges. Forward and juicy in its red fruit profile, enjoy now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2020 Kevin White ‘La Paysanne’ Mourvedre- The 2020 ‘La Paysanne’ is a 100% Mourvèdre bottling from the Boushey, Olsen, and Sugarloaf Vineyards. Smoked brisket and green peppercorns mingle well with Moroccan spices and suggestions of black tea on the nose. The palate is ripe and juicy with a wonderful purity of red and dark fruits. Very seamless and elegant, enjoy this very Washington vs. Beaucastel wine now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2022-2030- 94

2019 Kevin White ‘L’Odyssee’ Red WIne- The 2019 ‘L’Odyssee’ Red Wine is a Right Bank-inspired wine that combines Red Willow and Boushey Vineyard Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Very linear and balanced on the palate, this displays baking spice dusted red fruits with tobacco leaf, blackberry cobbler and coffee ground accents. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2019 Kevin White ‘Heritage DuBrul Vineyard’ Red Wine- Roughly 57% Merlot with the reminder Cabernet Sauvignon from the famed DuBrul Vineyard, the 2019 ‘Heritage’ offers beautiful aromatic range once in the glass. Red raspberry and freshly tilled soils combine with dried herbs, and stony undertones on the nose. The palate is plush and nicely concentrated with good underlying verve. Finishing long with black fruits and minerals, this is seriously good stuff to consume now and over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 94

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Here is the sensational new 2022 ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose

Long Shadows 'Julia's Dazzle' Rose

February 6, 2023

It might only be February but Rose season lies right in front of us. One of the most consistently great Rose wines out of Washington, ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ is made by Long Shadows. Year after year this wine has impressed since its inception and it is my pleasure to be the first wine critic to review this beautiful wine sourced from the Columbia Valley. This fall during harvest I had a chance to visit famed Long Shadows winemaker Gilles Nicault and taste with him at his Walla Walla winery. As we tasted through the new release, he mentioned how he felt that 2022 would bring a great Rose.

The 2022 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose (OB, 93) is a wine that is already singing but will become more and more complex as it ages. It seriously polished effort that is best consumed at a slightly warmer temperature. At around twenty dollars, the 2022 ‘Dazzle' is a steal in the Pacific Northwest Rose market. Learn more about these incredible wines at longshadows.com and here is my review of the 2022 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose.

2022 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose-  This is a downright stunning wine which was created entirely from Pinot Gris gapes, the 2022 ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ is a gorgeous Rose bottling that is already singing in February 2023 and checks in with just a dash of .3G/L residual sugar. While outstanding in 2021, the 2022 ‘Dazzle’ is a notch better in terms of mouthfeel, bright acidity and sinfully good flavor range. Don’t serve too cold to endure the complete range of flavors, combining Satsuma orange zest, guava puree, red rose water, juicy strawberry and shades of baking spice dusted French bread. This is impeccably balanced in terms of weight and bright minerality. Highly nuanced, enjoy now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2023-2029- 93

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Here are some of the beautiful wines from the 2020 vintage in Bordaeux

2020 Bordeaux Report

February 3, 2023

As we all gathered outside the door we eagerly awaited our entrance into what would be one of the great tastings of the year for Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux. I was very excited to taste some of the greats from the 2020 vintage in Bordeaux — a year that has been already hailed by many critics as being consistent and concentrated. 2020 was a warm year that had early flowering and very warm conditions from mid-June to mid-August. Heavy thunderstorms then hit the left bank, with the right bank less affected. 2020 is warm like 2018 but had more moderate conditions overall. Due to the heat, harvest was early, producing generally low yields.

Tasting the wines you can really feel the power on the Right Bank. These are deep, concentrated wines that will age gloriously. I loved the 2020 Chateau Le Bon Pasteur (OB, 95) which quite literally screams terroir and the broad-shouldered 2020 Chateau La Cabanne (OB, 95) which will cellar beautifully for decades. Overall quality on the Right Bank is clearly very high.

But there were also clearly world-class wines made on the Left Bank. The finest wine I tasted was the 2020 Chateau Pichon-Lalande (OB, 99) which flirts with perfection and is silky and generous with no rough edges. This beauty will cellar for many decades to come. Nearly as good was the scintillating 2020 Chateau Leoville-Poyferre (OB, 96) which has gobs of stuffing and the very elegant 2020 Chateau Lynch-Bages (OB, 96) which shows lovely terroir and earthy tones. Don’t sleep on the incredible value 2020 Chateau Gisgours (OB, 95) which is also quite powerful and shows velvety tannins right now. Both rouge and blanc wines by Chateau Pape Clement (OB, 96, OB, 96) offer outstanding value and aging potential. After this landmark tasting it is quite clear that buyers of the 2020 Bordeau vintage have a lot to look forward to.

2020 Chateau La Counsapaude- The outstanding 2020 Chateau La Counsapaude offers rich anise and black currant flavors alongside silky tannins and a smooth mouthfeel. Finishing long with copious meirnals, enjoy this beauty over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2024-2040- 92

2020 Chateau La Gaffeliere A really great wine for 2020, the Chateau La Gaffeliere is a smooth blend of 60% Merlot with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon. The house has been owned by the Malet Roquefort family for over three centuries and located in the "golden triangle," between the hills of Chateaux Pavie and Ausone. Right away on the palate you taste the dense dark currant tones alongside dried herbs and coffee grounds. Medium to full-bodied, savor this now and ver the next twenty years. Drink 2024-2044- 94

2020 Chateau Villamaurine- A gorgeous blend of 80% Merlot with the remainder Cabernet Franc, this spent roughly16 months in French oak before bottling. On the nose this takes on smoky aromas alongside graphite and dense dark fruits with hints of dark hocolate. This shows some really nice aging potential. Drink 2024-2042- 94

2020 Chateau Le Bon Pasteur- The gorgeous 2020 Chateau Le Bon Pasteur comes from the home of famed enologist Michel Rolland. Showing off its deep color in the glass, this evolves with heady dark currants, Black Forest cake and mocha with wet gravel notes on the nose. The palate is rich and layered with suggestions of creme de violette and stony accents. The viscosity here is sinfully good, as this beauty will evolve for decades to come Drink 2024-2045- 95

2020 Chateau La Cabanne- Comprised of (96%) and Cabernet Franc (4%), this shows a silky texture with good richness and fantastic underlying finesse. Pencil lead, anise and among undertones along side rich dark and blue fruits. A complete wine, this will be best consumed in several years. Drink 2024-2043- 95

2020 Chateau Gazin- The 2020 Chateau Gazin shows loads of potential and is coming off a bit backwards now. Medium to full bodied dark fruits combine with espresso grounds and wet gravel notes on the palate. Finishing long with great finesse, enjoy in several years. Drink 2025-2040- 93

2020 Chateau Clarke- The 2020 Chateau Clarke comes from the Listrac-Médoc, in the Northern Médoc region. This performs well with good freshness and displays medium bodied dark cherry, and date fruit flavors alongside coffee grounds and cloves. Give this another year in the bottle. Drink 2024-2040-92

2020 Chateau Coufran- Really good in 2020, Chateau Coufran combines Merlot (85%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (15%). Right away very appealing this offers medium to full-bodied tar, tobacco leaf, anise and fresh blackberries on the palate. Already nicely evolved, try to hold on this beauty for at least another year Drink 2024-2038- 93

2020 Chateau Augludet- In this 2020 vintage they have chosen to add more Petite Verdot. It comes off very fresh and somewhat angular with lighter to medium bodied dark fruits w tobacco leaf alongside gritty tannins. Drink 2023-2033- 91

2020 Chateau La Tour Carnet- The 2020 La Tour Carnet combines Merlot (60%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (40%). Right away this shows a deep hue with mocha and allspice tones alongside shades of pencil lead and damp earth. Medium bodied and well balanced, enjoy now and over the next twenty years. Drink 2024-2040- 93

2020 Chateau Gisgours- A sensational effort in 2020, the Chateau Gisgours combines Cabernet Sauvignon (56%) and Merlot (44%). This comes off ultra velvety with refined tannins. Very pure dark fruits march on with espresso grounds and shades of damp earth. This is silky, elegant and highly-concentrated wine that has a long way to go in the cellar. Give this several years before consuming. Drink 2025-2045- 95

2020 Chateau Lascombes- I had a marvelous visit to this house back in 2019. The 2020 Lascombes combines Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), Merlot (40%) and a touch of Petit Verdot (5%).  Right away this comes off very refined on the palate, displaying copious minerals with deep black fruits, dark chocolate and pipe tobacco flavors. Medium to full-bodied, enjoy over the next two decades. Try to resist for another couple of years. Drink 2025-2043- 94

2020 Chateau Beaumont- Outstanding and very savory the great value 2020 Chateau Beaumont shows garrigue notes alongside velvety tannins with rich figs and anise tones on the palate. Finishing long with black fruits and copious minerals, this is best consumed in a year or so — and will bring pleasure for another fifteen years. Drink 2024-2040- 92

2020 Chateau Beychevelle- There is a lot to love with the new 2020 Beychevelle which is a marvelous blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and the remainder Petit Verdot. On the palate medium to full-bodied flavors of mocha, tar, anise and creme de violette all enter the fray. Very concentrated and refined, enjoy over the next twenty five years to come. Just try to resist this beauty for a few more years. Drink 2025-2050- 95

2020 Chateau Gruaud Larose- The 2020 Chateau Gruaud Larose is an outstanding wine that is showing serious aging potential. The blend combines Cabernet Sauvignon (79%), smaller portions Cabernet Franc (4%), and Merlot (17%). Right away the heady aromas of mocha and tar notes combine with suggestions of leather and Turkish coffee all meld on the nose. The palate is rich and viscous with refined tannins and a great feeling of verve. Enjoy in several years. Drink 2025-2045- 94

2020 Chateau Leoville-Poyferre- Really good even in its youth, the hedonistic 2020 Chateau Leoville-Poyferre is a stunning wine from this vintage.Coming from this 60 hectare site set on Mindel gravel upon clayey-sandy subsoils, this comes off super refined with its tannic structure. Full-bodied coffee grounds, dark chocolate fudge and roasted date flavors meld with formidable viscosity and finesse. Try to resist this stunning wine for at least another three years. Drink 2026-2055- 96

2020 Chateau Talbot- The most Cabernet Sauvignon ever blended, this combines Cabernet Sauvignon (76%), Merlot (21%) and Petit Verdot (3%). Medium to full bodied mocha, anise and espresso grounds combine with soft tannins on the palate. Showing great length and persistence, hold off on this beauty for a few more years. Drink 2025-2045- 94

2020 Chateau Lynch Bages- A stunner from 2020, the Chateau Lynch Bages reminds me of the scintillating 2016 bottling. Showing off a very deep core in the glass, this combines with black currant cordial flavors with Arabica bean and creme de violette tones on the palate. This shows so much potential and ultra-refined tannins that make this quite literally a joy to drink even at this stage. Just try to resist this beauty for a few more years if you can. Drink 2025-3055- 96

2020 Chateau Phelan Segur- The 2020 Chateau Phelan Segur is one of the great wines of this house that I have tasted, up there with the outstanding 2005 and 2010 bottlings. This comes off very powerful and silky with refined tannins, with glorious length. A dense core of dark fruits greet you on the palate, with shades of dark licorice and coffee grounds. This will have the stuffing and finesse to cellar well for another two decades. Just hold off for a few more years. Drink 2025-2044- 94

2020 Chateau de Pez- The 2020 Chateau de Pez exudes class with its deep core in the glass. Ripe dark currants melange with dark chocolate and mocha tones with kirsch cordial on the palate. This is rich and layered stuff that will drink well for decades to come. Drink 2024-2040- 93

2020 Chateau Pichon Lalande- The finest wine of the tasting, the 2020 Chateau Pichon Lalande is a landmark wine from this vintage. A world-class blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot with the remainder  6% Cabernet Franc, this is ultra-rich and polished once on the mouth with a seamless texture. The Bordeaux effortlessly glides throughout the drinking experience, finishing very long with its polished tannins, black fruits and gorgeous finesse. Enjoy this dense, heady and wine that flirts with perfection over the next thirty years. Drink 2025-2055- 99

2020 Chateau Pape Clement Blanc- The 2020 Pape Clement Blanc is another stunning wine from this famed house for Bordeux Blanc. Complex and deep, with serious viscosity, this displays cardamom dusted melon, clementine white peach. This is power with gobs of finesse, as this dense beauty will go for decades to come Drink 2023-2043- 96

2020 Chateau Pape Clement Rouge- I adore the 2020 Chateau Pape Clement Rouge which is extremely powerful yet dazzles with its underlying tension. A blend of equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, on the palate this classy wine reveals heady pencil lead ,kirsch cordial and espresso grounds that combine with the seamless texture. Very deep and concentrated, enjoys this beauty in a year or so. Drink 2024-2050- 96

2020 Chateau De Chevalier Blanc- This comes off refined and elegant with good concentration on the palate, showing bergamot, white peach, juicy gooseberry and suggestions of baking spice dusted brioche flavors. Rich and viscous, with fantastic verve, this is already nicely evolved and will cellar well for another two decades. Drink 2023-2042-95

2020 Chateau De Chevalier Rouge- Just as good as the 2020 ‘Blanc’ the 2020 Chateau Chevalier Rouge is very concentrated and heady wine that is drinking marvelously even now at the three year mark. A gorgeous blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, and 3% Cabernet Franc, this offers wonderful underlying tension alongside medium to full-bodied dark currant, tobacco leaf, freshly tilled soil and stony accents on the palate. Delightful even now, enjoy over the next twenty years to come. Drink 2023-2043- 95

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Here is the fantastic new lineup by Eternal Wines.

Eternal Wines

February 2, 2023

Sitting across from winemaker Brad Binko last summer, we talked about everything from music to vintage port. A graduate of Walla Walla Community College’s enology and viticulture program,  Binko formerly ran restaurant wine programs in Charleston before making the move to Walla Walla. The wines that he makes get better and better.

In the past he has produced a very wide range of wines, including a top notch Port-style wine and a great range of whites, including a very fresh and fragrant Rose. He is located in the Walla Walla Airport district and is known for putting on killer wine parties and concerts, especially in the summer.

I really enjoyed his new wines. Don’t miss out on the 2021 Eternal Wines ‘Eternal Perspective’ Grenache Blanc (OB, 91) which is very fresh and nicely textured, with good flavor range. The best wine I tasted was the 2019 Eternal Wines ‘Eternal Bliss’ Fortified Syrah (OB, 93) which is amongst the finest wines of its kind that you will taste in the state. As I am typing this I quite literally can’t wait to go back to this wine tonight with a chocolate dessert. The wine shows insanely good flavor range that you will need to taste for yourself. Learn more about these wines at https://eternalwine.com Here are the great new releases by Eternal Wine and Drink Washington State.

2016 Drink Washington State Cabernet Sauvignon- The excellent 2016 Drink Washington State Cabernet Sauvignon is very soft and approachable Cabernet Sauvignon now with layers of black tea, blackberry compote, coffee grounds and good structure. Enjoy now and over the next several years to come. Drink 2023-20228- 91

2021 Eternal Wines ‘Eternal Perspective’ Grenache Blanc- The 2021 ‘Eternal Perspective’ comes from the Painted Hills Vineyard in the Yakima Valley AVA. This is ripe and beautifully textured Grenache Blanc with sweetened gooseberry, cantaloupe, wet stone and citrus blossom water notes on the palate. Texturally gratifying, with good acidity, this really needs a warm summer day. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2020 Eternal Wines ‘Eternal Insight’ Marsanne- Coming from the famed Boushey Vineyard, this Eternal Wines offering by Brad Binko offers a fresher take on the varietal. Copious minerals greet you with green papaya, unripe mango, green apple and suggestions of blue slate. Enjoy in its vibrant youth while this great sense of tension remains intact. Drink 2023-2027- 90

2017 Eternal Wines ‘Eternal Discovery’ Cabernet Sauvignon- As the name might suggest, this is sourced from the Discovery Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. Light garrigue notes combine with fresh black raspberry, black cherry pie and suggestions of dark chocolate shavings on the palate. Already nicely evolved, savor this now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2019 Eternal Wines ‘Eternal Bliss’ Fortified Syrah- Sitting with winemaker Brad Binko last summer we both talked about our love for Port wines. This is a Port-inspired bottling that is Syrah-based and had an added neutral spirit. Everything is in balance here, with bright acidity, alcohol and flat out delicious fruit and non-fruit flavors. Without a doubt the best wine in the Eternal Wines new lineup, this is a downright killer new bottling with insane flavor range — espresso grounds, mocha, tar, worn leather, sweetened menthol — that all marvelously combine together in the glass. Don’t take my word for it, you have to try this beauty for yourself! Drink 2023-2033- 93

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Great photo of the owners of Structure Cellars.

Structure Cellars

February 2, 2023

Today we introduce some of the finest people you will find in the Washington Wine Industry. For years I have enjoyed tasting at their SoDo location as  Structure Cellars focuses their program on high quality red wine that exudes value. Head winemaker and co-owner Brian Grasso is a former sommelier that trained under Washington wine legend Chris Sparkman of Sparkman Cellars before starting his own winery. Brian is a really easy-going, down to earth guy. He’s passionate and dedicated to making high quality, good value wines. He and his wife Brandee also own an adjacent, very cool sparkling wine bar called Love Beats Pagne (https://www.lovebeatspagne.com) that my wife is particularly fond of.

When you enter Structure Cellars you will no doubt see Brian’s head beating back and forth as he personally tastes people on his lineup.  2020 was not an easy vintage to navigate but he did a really good job with the wines, despite the conditions late in the year. I adored his 2020 Structure Cellars ‘Wallula Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 92) which has gorgeous underlying tension and a salty presence. This is a really cool wine that should be enjoyed now and over the next eight or so years. Learn more about these excellent wines at structurewines.com and here are the great new wines by Structure Cellars.

2021 Structure Cellars ‘Frenchman Hills Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This outstanding Chardonnay displays a ripe texture with beautiful and opulent Japanese pear, ripe peach and pineapple flavors that combine with silty soils on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, enjoy this delicious bottling now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2021 Structure Cellars ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Roussanne- The 2021 Structure Cellars ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Roussanne comes from this outstanding site in the Yakima Valley. Very fresh and soft on the mouth, this delivers Macadamia nut tones on the palate, with wild mushroom, cantaloupe and shades of cardamom, with considerable underlying tension. Enjoy now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc- The beautiful 2020 ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc is a great showing from this challenging vintage. Fragrant on the nose with potpourri, this displays ripe red fruit flavors that combine with cigar ash and shades of black licorice. Enjoy over the next several years. Drink 2023-2028- 90

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Foundation’ Cabernet Franc- Very herbal and bright, with gobs of mouth-watering acidity, the very linear 2020 Structure Cellars ‘Foundation’ Cabernet Franc offers tar and red currant flavors alongside red floral water on the palate. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2027- 90

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Olsen Brothers’ Merlot- Soft and approachable now, the 2020 Structure Cellars ‘Olsen Brothers’ Merlot displays ripe red cherry flavors with tobacco leaf, white pepper and shades of milk chocolate. Drink 2023-2027- 90

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Syrah- Savory and tasty right now, the 2020 ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Syrah shows bacon fat, tar and anise tones with lighter dark currant notes on the palate. Medium-bodied with good finesse, enjoy now and over the next five years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Wallula Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming from this scenic site set on the Columbia River, the 2020 Structure Cellars ‘Wallula Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon offers ripe red currants, rose water and tobacco flavors on the palate with plenty of finesse and dark chocolate shaving and salty undertones. Showing some bright acidity, this nuanced Cabernet Sauvignon is drinking beautifully now. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from this cooler site in the Royal Slope AVA, the Cabernet Sauvignon shows off wild blackberry, black currant jelly and shades of asphalt on the nose. The palate is soft and inviting with a smooth texture and light texture. Drink 2023-2027- 90

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Foundation’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 ‘Foundation’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows tar, method and tobacco leaf on the palate with copious minerals. Medium-bodied, enjoy now. Drink 2023-2027- 90

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Great photo here of the Sequitur founders, Mike Etzel and Carey Critichlow.

Sequitur

February 1, 2023

One of the world-class producers out of Oregon, Sequitur was founded by Mike Etzel and Carey Critchlow. For years Mike Etzel had sights on developing a property which is adjacent to his famed ‘Upper Terrace Vineyard’ and between 2012 and 2014 Mike and Carey planted the 12-acre Sequitur vineyard . Various clonal selections (Wädenswil, Coury, Swan, Calera, Eyrie, Mt. Eden, Rochioli, and Martin Ray) here are tightly spaced, as this biodynamically farmed vineyard is a truly unique site with large Fir trees that line the property. 

The current production is 700 cases of Pinot Noir and 75 cases of Chardonnay, plus or minus a few depending on the vintage. They produce a small amount of “Amphora” Pinot Noir which is fermented and aged in an Italian clay amphora. They’ve made White Pinot Noir in 2020 and also now in 2022.

The new wines by them were extraordinarily good. I was blown away with what they accomplished in 2020 as the 2020 Sequitur White Pinot Noir (OB, 94) is one of the finest wines I have tasted from this challenging vintage. With serious range and texture, this beauty is absolutely singing now. Even better is the 2019 Sequitur ‘Ribbon Ridge Woodstock’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) which is a fitting tribute to the 50th anniversary of this famed festival. Dense and showing incredible verve and mouthfeel, this very pretty wine will live on for decades.

Learn more about these special, limited production wines at https://www.sequiturwine.com Here is the glorious new release wines by Sequitur. 

2020 Sequitur White Pinot Noir- Coming from this highly challenging vintage in the Willamette Valley, the absolutely gorgeous 2020 Sequitur White Pinot Noir offers a very rich nose with salted Macadamia nut, nectarine, gooseberry and cantaloupe notes. The palate is very seamless and downright ethereal with really nice weight. Kiwi, Yakima cherry and honeydew melon flavors mingle well with copious minerals on the palate. This is super-refined, weightless stuff that is up there with the finest White Pinot Noirs that are made in North America. No reason to cellar this beauty! Drink 2023-2029- 94

2019 Sequitur ‘Ribbon Ridge Woodstock’ Pinot Noir- The downright stunning 2019 Sequitur ‘Ribbon Ridge’ Pinot Noir is a tribute wine to the 50th anniversary of the iconic music festival. This is a nod to the rains during the festival and also at harvest (albeit considerably cooler during the Oregon harvest!). Considering the rains at harvest, this is rich and concentrated, with a deep core. Very rich and concentrated, showing linzer torte, cran-pomegranate, wild blackberries and copious minerals, this is a stunning, very pure Pinot Noir from this slightly cooler vintage. Showing great length and loads of mouth-watering acidity, I can see this cellaring well for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

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Brian Rudin makes some beautiful wines for Canvasback.

Canvasback

January 31, 2023

For years I have loved the Canvasback wines by winemaker Brian Rudin. Founded back in 2011, Duckhorn pioneers Dan and Margaret Duckhorn saw the great potential for adding Washington Cabernet Sauvignon from Red Mountain to their portfolio of wines. Today Canvasback makes a range of wines and utilizes the vineyard management talents of Dick Boushey to source from some of the state’s great sites including Klipsun, The Funk Estate, La Coye, Shaw and Quintessence Vineyards. Canvasback crafts their ‘Grand Passage’ Cabernet Sauvignon, entirely sourced from Red Mountain and also has a relatively new estate vineyard, the Longwinds Vineyard, on Red Mountain right above Col Solare. The Longwinds Vineyard was planted in 2013 and has 13.5 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and 4.5 acres of Merlot, with the Cabernet grown in the rockier, exposed soils at the top of the vineyard, and the Merlot grown near the bottom, where the soils have higher water-holding capacity. 

Winemaker Brian Rudin is originally from Eastern Washington and worked at L’Ecole No. 41 before serving as head winemaker for four years at Cadaretta and Buried Cane.  I really enjoyed the new wines that he has made. Coming from this somewhat challenging vintage, the 2019 Canvasback ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 92) is very concentrated and dense, showing the wonderful deep earthy tones that you expect from Red Mountain. Learn more about these great new wines at https://www.canvasbackwine.com Here are the beautiful new Cabernet Sauvignon releases by Canvasback. 

2020 Greenwing ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The Greenwing bottling is their entry level wine that comes from a range of appellations including Red Mountain and the Walla Walla Valley. Right away this delivers ripe figs with sweetened blackberry and black currant flavors, with dusty earth. Enjoy now and over the next several years. Drink 2022-2028- 90

2019 Canvasback ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an outstanding value by winemaker Brian Rudin. Sourced from great sites including Klipsun and Quintessence Vineyards, this offers tar and tobacco leaf flavors alongside intense boysenberry cordial and mocha tones. This is truly delicious and concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon that offers some really great value. Enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2022-2032- 92

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