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Owen Bargreen

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Here is the outstanding new 2021 Dossier Cabernet Sauvignon.

Dossier

September 25, 2023

My ears picked up several years back when talking with Dossier co-founder Tim Lenihan. “Sidney and I have been thinking of starting a winery” he said. I thought to myself that this project would have massive potential. This brand has quite frankly taken the Washington wine scene by storm since its inception.

Dossier holds incredible events at top spots in Seattle like The Nest rooftop bar at the Thompson Hotel. It took some time but former NFL star Sidney Rice and businessman and fellow Whitman grad Tim Lenihan finally got the nerve to start their own winery. They are also working on a brand new and modern tasting room in Walla Walla that I am really excited to check out. Look for that spot to open in a month or so. It has been more than a decade since I have enjoyed the great wines made by master of wine, Billo Naravane. Naravane makes the beautiful wines of Rasa Vineyards. Each bottling has incredible intension and attention to detail. Longtime Washington wine industry veteran Brandon Kubrock serves as general manager, formerly owning his own Ardor Cellars label.

Naravane has his best releases yet for fall 2022. The 2021 Dossier Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 96) is best wine from this house that I have tasted yet. Sultry and rich with layers of head dark fruits, this beauty will live on for another two decades. Learn more about this exciting new project at dossierwine.com and here are my reviews of the new Dossier wines.

2022 Dossier Sauvignon Blanc- The 2022 Dossier Sauvignon Blanc was stored in a combination of new and used French oak, stainless steel and concrete eggs.This saw monthly battonage which heavily contributed to the outstanding mouthfeel. Mostly coming from the Connor Lee Vineyard, this offers nutmeg dusted brioche tones alongside banana, and lime zest. The palate is round and generous with a silky mouthfeel and loads of mouth-watering acidity. Drink 2023-2039-93

2021 Dossier Red Blend- A downright killer value, the 2021 Red Blend combines 36% Cabernet Sauvignon with 25% Merlot with the remainder Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Stored in 40% new French oak barrels, this offers tobacco leaf, red bell pepper, anise and black currant flavors that combine with hints of espresso grounds. Very approachable and soft on the mouth, with a generous mouthfeel, this is gorgeous stuff that is already drinking beautifully now. Drink 2023-2035- 94

2021 Dossier ‘Flagship’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 Dossier ‘Flagship’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning wine that mostly comes from the Ciel du Cheval and Summit View vineyards. Stored in 60% new French oak for 22 months, this offers incredibly complex aromatics of espresso grounds, mocha, tar and Asian spices with creme de violette. The palate is tannic and massive, showing very broad shoulders, with Turkish coffee and scorched earthy notes alongside a massive core of black and blue fruit flavors. Totally stunning and delicious, this has some serious aging potential, as this will easily be a 20 year wine. Drink 2024-2040- 96

2021 Dossier ‘Flagship Index’ Red Wine- The ‘Flagship Index’ is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with smaller portions Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc that was stored in 65% new French oak for 21 months before bottle. The nose is incredibly complex with anise and black currant notes alongside milk chocolate notes. The palate is soft and ripe with silky tannins that combine with the gorgeous core of black forest cake, coffee grounds, graphite and sandalwood notes. Powerful and showing good verve, this beauty will cellar well for another twenty years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 95

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Here is the brilliant new 2021 ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir by Argyle.

Argyle 'Nuthouse' Pinot Noir Vertical Tasting

September 21, 2023

Back in the early 2000s I first visited Argyle. The winery was getting some exceptional scores by Wine Spectator’s Oregon Critic, Harvey Steinman, and I had to check the wines out for myself. My first visit was in 2002 when they had a very small, rustic tasting room that looks nothing like the huge, modern facility that they have today. Tastings were held at their ‘Nuthouse’ outpost where people would have a chance to taste a range of their wines, including their top ‘Nuthouse’ bottlings.

I joined their wine club because I quickly became enamored by the wines. Rollin Soles was making some of the most electric Pinot Noir and sparkling wines that you would find in North America. Wines were well-balanced, with moderate oak and plenty of decadent red fruit flavors. As I was in grad school in San Diego, I shared these wines with my friends in my tasting group and they all agreed how incredible the top Argyle wines were.

Fast forward twenty plus years later I again descended on the Willamette Valley and had an early morning visit to Argyle with winemaker Nate Klostermann. He graciously shared a range of ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noirs that reminded me of the wines that I tasted when I was a wine club member. This was an incredible treat for me as these wines held remarkably well despite some being nearly twenty years of age.

Case in point, the 2005 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) has a long way to go still. Ripe and fleshy with remarkable flavor complexity and a smooth mouthfeel, this beauty is right in its sweet spot. A wine with serious potential is the gorgeous 2021 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) which has massive potential and is still exceedingly primary. I can’t wait to revisit this beauty in about eight years, as it will live on for another fifteen plus. Learn more about these outstanding wines at argylewinery.com and here are my tasting notes from a sensational tasting of Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir.

2021 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 ‘Nuthouse’ is a totally stunning new wine by winemaker Nate Klostermann that is mainly sourced from the Lone Star Vineyard. Showing a deep hue in the glass, this offers lavender and red currant tones on the nose alongside clay soils and shades of strawberry Starburst candy. Broad-shouldered and beautifully textured, with serious weight and fantastic underlying finesse, this is a delicious and complex new bottling that has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2040- 95

2015 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir- Entirely sourced from the Lone Star Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills, the 2015 ‘Nuthouse’ is showing a dazzling bouquet right now. Exotic spices and beautiful red florals combine with salty soils, dense red fruits and Linzer torte notes. The palate is dense and heady with chewy and salty red fruit flavors alongside wild mushroom and peat moss notes. A total stunner, with a seamless mouthfeel and bright underlying acidity, this is a beautiful showing now at the eight year mark. Drink 2023-2031- 95

2013 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir- The stunning 2013 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir comes from this challenging vintage which was marred by torrential rains at harvest. This bottling comes from the Lone Star vineyard as this was picked before the rains. This comes off considerably leaner than the first two wines, this is very delicate, showing nice secondary notes of forest floor and pine needles. This is a really strong wine considering the vintage. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2008 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir- Coming from this well-balanced vintage, the 2008 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir is a really great wine made from this great vintage. Fresh and vibrant this displays light tannins that frame a beautiful core of dark fruits with black truffle and peat moss tones with shades of Christmas spice. This is right in its sweet spot now as this beauty still has a long way to go. Drink 2023-2031- 95

2005 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir- The brilliant 2005 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir is a total joy to drink right now. This is showing beautiful savory tones with a pretty core of red fruits alongside white truffle shavings, pomegranate seed, freshly tilled soils and shades of dried herbs. This is absolutely delicious stuff that has stood the test of time. Drink 2023-2030- 95

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Here are the stunning Chardonnays from the 2016, 2018, 2018 and 2021 vintages by Smith-Madrone.

Smith-Madrone Chardonnay Vertical Tasting

September 21, 2023

A winery that keeps under the radar, Smith-Madrone has been dry-farming on Spring Mountain since 1971. It was this high-elevation site set on Aiken Stoney Clay loam that drew the Smiths to this region. They saw the potential for Cabernet Sauvignon here but also Riesling and Chardonnay. For my palate the Smith-Madrone Chardonnay has been a pillar of consistency.

It is the diligence of Stuart Smith that led to such great wines as he chose specific slopes with different exposures for specific varietals when planting the vineyards: eastern exposure for Riesling, southern and western exposures across flat stretches for the Cabernet Sauvignon and the coolest north-facing slopes for the Chardonnay. The estate is a 200 acre ranch, partly planted as vineyard over a century ago. California black bears and other wildlife once thrived here as did 120-year-old Picholine olive trees which frame a path and view down to the floor of the Napa Valley. This is an incredible hillside property that is an absolute gem to visit. Wines are made in a balanced style, with good ripeness but also excellent freshness.

I recently had the chance to review the Chardonnays from this site as a special vertical tasting. I’ve really enjoyed these releases but I was curious how they aged. The way that the wines are made with serious texture, weight and bright acidly, make Chardonnay from this site particularly age-worthy.

Right now definitely peaking, the 2016 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay (OB, 93) is soft and generous, slowly getting into nutty and earthy tones. Just as good was the incredible 2018 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is even richer and more viscous, as this beauty will go for another eight plus years. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://www.smithmadrone.com Here are my reviews of the beautiful Chardonnays by Smith-Madrone.

2016 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay- It is such a pleasure revisiting this warm vintage beauty, the 2016 Chardonnay by Smith-Madrone. Vines for this wine are set on Aiken Stoney Clay loam, part of the Aiken, Kidd, Forward complex of soils which are volcanic-based and well-drained. Aged for nine months in 80% new French oak, this offers complex aromas of toasted hazelnuts alongside brioche and hints of bananas foster, giving us plenty of allure. The palate is wonderfully concentrated and very smooth, as this glides throughout the drinking experience offering buttercream, Meyer lemon zest, mango and roasted pineapple notes alongside nutty and flinty undertones. Equally complex and delicious, this is a stunning wine that is right at its peak. Drink 2023-2029- 93

2018 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay- The 2018 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay is a gorgeous offering that looks bright and bold in the glass. This standout Chardonnay saw considerably less new French oak (55%) than the ’16 bottling. It offers very bright acidity with loads of mouth-watering acidity once on the mouth. Layers of peach and lime zest combine with suggestions of vanilla cream, baking spice dusted pear and salted Macadamia nut all enter the fold. Full-bodied, neatly textured and full of tension, this has a long way to go still in the cellar. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2019 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay- The new Fall 2023 release for this winery comes from the 2019 vintage which saw relatively even warmth throughout the growing season. Dry-farmed vines for this wine come from the Spring Mountain District as this is a fantastic new bottling made by winemaker Charles Smith. The nose is really fantastic with toasty oak alongside Marcona almond, nectarine, marzipan and shades of Pazzaz apple. The palate is soft and decadent with a great underlying verve. Layers of buttercream alongside copious minerals, kumquat rind and Brazil nut all combine on the palate. Well-balanced and showing a soft mouthfeel, with a lengthy finish, enjoy this beauty now and over the next eight years to come. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay- The very pretty and future release 2021 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay is a wine with some great potential. Right now things are in impeccable balance. On the nose this shows off lime blossom notes alongside wet stone, papaya and suggestions of cardamom spice. The right amount of melon and citrus fruits greet you on the palate, with great nerve and a very long finish. Really just an infant now, with its stony accents, this needs a year or two in the bottle to fully unveil itself. Drink 2024-2033- 93

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Here are the outstanding 2020 wines by Cadence.

Cadence

September 21, 2023

Today we share a Washington wine icon. Now in their 25th year, Ben Smith (http://owenbargreen.com/benjamin-smith-cadence) together with his wife Gaye McNutt have been making exceptional, cellar-worthy bottlings from some of the state’s great sites. These wines age so gracefully and I had a chance to taste older vintages with both Gaye and Ben in the spring, proving more evidence how these wines are so stable and delicious after many years in the cellar. It has now been more than a decade that they planted their own vineyard on Red Mountain, the Cara Mia Vineyard, where most of their wines come from. I’ve enjoyed tasting these wines at the ten year mark where they seem to start collecting secondary characteristics.

Just as I enjoyed the 2019 wines from a tough vintage, this new set of releases come from the even tougher 2020 vintage. These are wines that you can buy with confidence as they all come off clean. As with any wines that I review from 2020, they are wines to be enjoyed now.

I think that you would be hard pressed to find a better value than the 2021 Cadence ‘Coda’ Red Wine (OB, 92) which shows good richness and flavor range. I adored the 2020 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine (OB, 95) which is a remarkable achievement in this vintage and definitely is one of the standout wines produced. Learn more about this great winery at cadencewinery.com  and here are my reviews of the the beautiful new wines by Cadence.

2021 Cadence ‘Coda’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Coda’ combines nearly all Cabernet Franc and Merlot with small parts Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon. This shows pretty red florals from the Cabernet Franc. Garrigue and red bell pepper combines with wild blackberry and hints of wild mushroom on the nose. The palate is silky and smooth with a terrific mouthfeel. Very ripe for this winery, this is downright delicious juice that is best consumed now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2020 Cadence ‘Cara Mia Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 ‘Cara Mia Vineyard’ is a truly great wine from a tough vintage. 100% varietal, this displays good purity and balance, with a seamless texture. Layers of juicy red fruits brighten this wine, with scorched earth, boysenberry and dark chocolate shaving flavors. Seriously delicious, and well-structure, this clearly has the weight and finesse to go on for another decade. But why wait? This is a perfect example of trusting your producer in a hard vintage. Drink 2023-2029- 94

2020 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Camerata’ is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (67%) with the remainder Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The nose shows off red bell pepper tones alongside anise, black currants and shades of sandalwood. The palate is soft, refined and generous with plenty of richness and underlying finesse. Coming off clean with a beautiful range of black fruit flavors alongside graphite, dried herbs and refined tannins, this is a world-class wine made in a tough vintage. Like any great wine made in this vintage, no reason to cellar. Drink 2023-2031- 95

2020 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- A consistently fantastic wine in the Cadence lineup, the 2020 ‘Bel Canto’ is a Right Bank inspired blend of 73% Cabernet Franc with the remainder Merlot. Chocolate cake and shades of pencil lead all fill the nose with purple red petals and shades of lilac. The palate is fresh and viscous with lovely herbal undertones and fantastic finesse. Tar and black licorice notes mark the palate alongside a core of beautiful red fruits and tobacco leaf. This is quite simply a joy to drink right now, as this is best enjoyed over the next seven plus years. Drink 2023-2030- 95

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Great photo of Cherie and Philippe Melka, proprietors of Melka Estates.

Melka Estates

September 20, 2023

I obviously have a thing for great California wines. One of the fantastic boutique producers out of Napa, Melka Estates relies on the talents of Philippe and Cherie Melka. Melka Estates is a limited production winery that sources from some amazing sites including La Mekerra in Sonoma and Jumping Goat in Napa Valley. They also make a world-class Syrah from Paso Robles. A man needing no introduction, Philippe Melka is a Bordeaux native that has a master’s degree in enology. He has a long resume, with previous stops at Château Haut Brion, as well as Dominus Estate and various stints in Australia and even Chateau Petrus. He has been in Napa on a full time basis since 1994 and has served as consulting winemaker at some of the great wineries in Napa, Sonoma and Washington State. There is little doubt that he is truly one of the great consulting winemakers in the world. Philippe partners with his wife, Cherie, to craft the wines. She also has a highly impressive resume with previous stops Ridge Vineyards prior to starting Melka Estates. She handles all business decisions for Melka as well as helps with the blending. Having tasted with Cherie on several occasions, she has an incredible knowledge of Napa and the surrounding areas to craft wines with terroir and serious texture.

The Melkas hold their wines back considerably more than most Napa houses. The wines I tasted were from the 2018 and 2019 vintages. One of the great new world Sauvignon Blanc wines that I have tasted in the past year, the 2018 Melka Estates ‘La Mekerra Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 96) is a red wine lover’s rendition of this varietal. Big, bold and seamless with serious texture and flavor complexity, this is a total stunner that is a must-purchase for any lover of Sav Blanc. Even better is the incredible 2018 Melka Estates ‘Metisse’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 97) which comes from the Martinez Vineyard in the Napa Valley. Bold and brooding, with serious refinement and concentration, this beauty is absolutely a joy to consume right now in its heady youth. I think you will really be impressed with these new wines. Learn more at https://www.melkaestates.com Here are my reviews of the new Melka Estates wines. 

2018 Melka Estates ‘La Mekerra Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc- This beautiful wine is a barrel selection wine using several clonal selections of Sauvignon Blanc that saw some battonage. This bottling is wonderfully textured with serious weight and tension. Gooseberry and bright green apple combine with suggestions of baking spice dusted brioche notes combine on the palate. Stored in roughly 60% new French oak (cigar barrels), this finishes very long. Enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 96

2019 Melka Estates ‘Majestique’ Syrah- This inky colored Syrah comes form the famed Paderewski Vineyard which is farmed by Epoch. The wine displays a dazzling array of flavors from black olive tapenade, smoked brisket, violets, creme de cassis and shades of tar. The wine effortlessly glides throughout the drinking experience. Concentrated and weightless, this is delicious wine that is best consumed now and over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 96

2019 Melka Estates ‘CJ’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 ‘CJ’ is named after the Melka’s children, as this has been produced since 1996. Cabernet Sauvignon dominant with small parts Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, that comes from a host of vineyards throughout the Napa Valley. Immediately gratifying on the palate, this shows beautiful concentration and structure, with a smooth texture. Enjoy this now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2018 Melka Estates ‘Metisse’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The stunning 2018 Melka Estates ‘Metisse’ comes from the Martinez Vineyard in the Napa Valley. A combination of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon with 23% Cabernet Franc and the remainder Petit Verdot, this delivers serious concentration and verve, with a silky mouthfeel and beautiful dark florals on the nose. The herbal and structure from the Petit Verdot is shining through. Creme de violette, mocha, anise and green herbs combine with massive blue fruit flavors. This is going to be at least a twenty year wine. Drink 2023-2043- 97

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Here is one of the thrilling 2018 Chardonnays by Big Table Farm.

Big Table Farm Chardonnay Retrospective

September 19, 2023

For years I have admired the wines of Big Table Farm, a boutique winery started by Clare Carver and Brian Marcy. Year after year they produce a rocking set of releases. They even did a fantastic job navigating the conditions of 2020. Many of you know that I am crazy for top Oregon Chardonnay. People are stuck in the sand if they do not admire the top Chardonnay bottlings that Oregon offers. These wines at their best show serious tension with beautiful fruit and non-fruit profiles and a lengthy finish.

Winemaker Brian Marcy knows a thing or two about Chardonnay. Prior to his time at Big Table Farm he was making some beautiful Chardonnay wines in Napa for Neyers. These wines showed good balance despite the heat of each vintage. The same is true with his approach to Chardonnay in Oregon. The wines are highly age worthy and show beautiful fruit flavors, with good tension and length. Oregon Chardonnay at its best ages gracefully.

Over the past few months I have had a chance to reach into my cellar and taste through some of the older Chardonnay bottlings by Big Table Farm. These are wines that are aging gracefully and will easily sit for ten plus years. I particularly loved the 2018 Big Table Farm ‘Eola-Amity Hills’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which is big and bold, showing great weight and good underlying tension, with a near minute-long finish. Without further adieu here are my notes from some cellar selections — beautiful Chardonnays by Big Table Farm. Learn more about Big Table Farm at http://www.bigtablefarm.com/

2019 Big Table Farm ‘The Wild Bee’ Chardonnay- The 2019 ‘The Wild Bee’ is at a really nice spot right now. It is full of verve and comes off very differently than the ’18 bottling. Full of nerve, this shows fantastic underlying acidity and salty tones alongside bright pear, sweetened peach and shades of wet stone with pastry crust notes on the palate. Showing good length this beauty has another eight plus years to go. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2018 Big Table Farm ‘Eola-Amity Hills’ Chardonnay- I am enamored with where the 2018 ‘Eola-Amity Hills’ Chardonnay is drinking right now. It is big, bold and layered, yet does not come off at all heavy. Showing the richness from this warm vintage, the soft texture really entices, as does the marvelous length of the wine. Baked apple and starfruit notes combine with vanilla cream, nutmeg dusted brioche and shades of flint on the palate. The near minute-long finish is a real show-stopper. Drink 2023-2031- 94

2018 Big Table Farm ‘Yamhill-Carlton’ Chardonnay- Slightly less bold but every bit as delicious as the 2018 ‘Eola-Amity Hills’ bottling, the 2018 Big Table Farm ‘Yamhill-Carlton’ Chardonnay is just a joy to consume now at the five year mark. Once on the nose this takes on juicy nectarine tones alongside baking spices, lime blossom and suggestions of wild mushroom. The palate also shows light earthy notes of white truffle that combine with its rich core citrus and orchard fruits. Enjoy now and over the next five to seven years to come. Drink 2023-2030- 94

2017 Big Table Farm ‘The Wild Bee’ Chardonnay- Lemon rind notes combine with shades of marzipan and nutty accents on the nose to this fantastic 2017 Chardonnay. Softly textured, and showing good nerve, with mouth-watering acidity, this glides throughout the drinking experience delivering stony nuances that mingle well with the smooth mouthfeel. Finishing long with kumquat zest and copious minerals, this beauty is drinking marvelously now and will easily last another eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

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Woodward Canyon produces a very diverse lineup of outstanding Washington wines that I have now tasted for over two decades.

Woodward Canyon

September 19, 2023

It is always a pleasure visiting the wines of Woodward Canyon. These are wines that are complete, with a beginning, middle and an end. I’ve enjoyed these for decades and I had a chance to sit down with second generation vintner, Sager Small and talk about his new wines. Tasting with Sager Small he shared his thoughts about the 2021 and 2022 vintages. “2021 was really warm and it was that heat dome year. You turn the heat up that year but 2022 was more in line with historical temperatures. Like this year, 2023, it steadily goes up and then it peaks and then comes down. I prefer this year and 2022 because you hit the high point and then it is even. A bit early to call this vintage but you have ripening that is even.” He admitted that he is very bullish on the new vintage, stating that what has been harvested looks fantastic so far.

He stated “The heat can do strange things to vines and makes it difficult in years like 2021. High heat events just keep the vines at stasis and try to keep the vines alive. I think that those things can make less than ideal wines. But we are in a windier site which contributes to smaller berry size and that shifts the ratio from skin to fruit and concentration wise you get a bit more Merlot from our Merlots because of our site.”

We tasted through his 2022 white wines, which he was really proud of. “These are balanced wines which I really enjoy” he stated. “We are obviously not doing Loire, which I love” he said “but this Sauvignon Blanc has that feel” he explained. As I tasted the 2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 92) I loved the grassy notes in the wine that showed also a smooth mouthfeel. This is one of the great Sauvignon Blanc wines made in Washington. Even better was his fantastic 2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which is one of the finest wines of its kind in the state. This beauty is sure to satisfy any lover of Pacific Northwest Chardonnay. Learn more about these fantastic new wines at woodwardcanyon.com and here are my reviews of the beautiful new wines by Woodward Canyon.

2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc is a gorgeous effort that shows plenty of intensity and bright underlying acidity. This was native-fermented in stainless steel and then aged in neutral oak before bottling. At this site they have both Loire and Bordeaux clonal selection Sauvignon Blanc vines. Gooseberry, lime zest, damp freshly cut grass and green papaya flavors combine with wet stone and serious texture on the palate. Drink 2023-2029- 92

2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay- The 2022 ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay comes from Wente clone estate plantings that date back to 1977. Stored in 20% new French oak, this is another seriously good Woodward Chardonnay bottling from this slightly cooler vintage. Juicy nectarine, vanilla cream, roasted pineapple and shades of Macadamia nut all emerge on the palate, with great underlying finesse. Extremely well-balanced, this is a joy to consume right now. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2021 Woodward Canyon ‘Mourvedre-Grenache-Syrah’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Mourvedre-Grenache-Syrah’ combines 50% Syrah with equal parts Mourvèdre and Grenache that was sourced from their estate vineyard. Stored in a small portion of new oak barrels, this offers white pepper dusted bacon, black olives, blackberry and shades of creosote on the nose. This is wonderfully balanced with good poise. Every working part here is moving in unison. Only 201 cases made. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2021 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Merlot- The 2021 ‘Merlot’ was stored in 40% new French  oak befrore bottling. 100% varietal, this offers a smooth texture with red bell pepper, milk chocolate, anise and shades of black licorice on the palate. Salty and savory, with a soft mouthfeel, this is absolutely delicious right now. Drink 2023-2036- 94

2021 Woodward Canyon ‘Artist Series #30’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A pleasure to drink right now,  the 2021 Woodward Canyon ‘Artist Series #30’ Cabernet Sauvignon was stored in 60% new French oak before bottling. Nearly all Cabernet Sauvignon (87%) this was mostly sourced from the Weinbau Vineyard. A plush layer of toasty oak greets you on the mid-palate, with good underlying verve. Rich mocha and creme de cassis flavors mingle well with Turkish coffee accents and dusty tannins on the palate. Drink 2023-2037- 93

2021 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Cabernet Franc- Stored in 30% new French oak, this was native-fermented as this comes from a range of estate blocks. Gorgeous red bell pepper, green peppercorns, anise and violets come into play on the nose. Seamless and soft with great richness and a fantastic core of black fruit flavors, this is elegant, well-balanced Cabernet Franc that will surely live on for another fifteen plus years to come. This might be the finest edition of this wine that I have tasted. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2021 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate Reserve’ Red WIne- The ‘Estate Reserve’ is sourced from what the winemaking team feels is the best lots from the year. The blend is 38% Cabernet Sauvignon with 27% Cabernet Franc and the remainder Malbec, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Highly perfumed with beautiful red florals, this leads with serious tension and a smooth mouthfeel. Layers of espresso grinds and dark currants combine with tar and anise notes. Simply gorgeous, this has both the finesse and weight to cellar well for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2021 Woodward Canyon ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘Old Vines’ is a stunning new wine by winemaker Kevin Mott. Refined tannins frame a gorgeous wall of black and blue fruit flavors with Arabica bean, sandalwood and notes of scorched earth. Showing serious length, weight and verve, enjoy this beauty now and over the next twenty years. Drink 2023-2040- 96

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Great photo of the late Long Shadows founder Allen Shoup.

Long Shadows

September 18, 2023

It is always a pleasure chatting with Long Shadows winemaker Gilles Nicault. He has been crafting some of the finest wines in Washington State now for many years. He’s witnessed many winemaking challenges, with the cold weather of 2011 and also some difficulties with 2019. That vintage was not easy with the freeze events in early October. Nicault remarked “We were so fortunate that we were a bit late going in terms of growing season and no heat spikes, a perfect growing season and September in 2019 was really beautiful” said Gilles. “In early October we had harvested and the freeze came when we were done. A few blocks we were not harvested yet but that was it.” Gilles noted “We did not have ripeness issues in 2019. Only with the Mourvèdre in 2019 for the Cote Nicault because I had to do a very firm selection of that. I took the best of the best.” Tasting through several of the 2019 wines that he made, there was plenty of dense dark fruit flavors. These are standout wines from this vintage.

We chatted about vintages to come, which excites Nicault particularly about the potential of red and white wines made in 2022.“ We only had one pick in October and I was worried about the vintage and then it started warming which helped so much, I had never seen such a beautiful fall. Instead of being rainy or cold at night it was just perfect weather for us and the fruit continued to hang and we had beautiful fruit” he said.

Long Shadows was formerly built on partnerships with other wineries but now Nicault is making all of the wines. “We have a great relationship with our growers and I think that shows in the wines” he said. The quality in the glass shows, as he has crafted another sensational range of wines for the Long Shadows program. We would also be remiss without sending out a tribute to the late Washington wine pioneer Allen Shoup. Shoup is a founding father of the Washington wine industry. He spent 20 years building Château Ste. Michelle and its affiliate wineries, serving as the company's CEO for 17 of those years before establishing Long Shadows in 2002. He had an incredible vision for Long Shadows and built a world-class wine brand from the ground up.

I adored the new 2022 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling (OB, 94) which is arguably the finest Riesling made in Washington. This shows gobs of finesse with a silky texture and just the slightest semblance of sweetness. Don’t miss out on the 2019 Long Shadows ‘Pirouette’ Red Wine (OB, 96) which utilizes five Bordeaux varietals and displays both elegance and richness with fantastic underlying tension. Learn more about these famed wines at longshadows.com and here are my reviews of the beautiful new Long Shadows wines.

2022 Long Shadows ‘Cymbal’ Sauvignon Blanc- Stored in stainless steel, concrete tanks, and French oak barrels, the 2022 ‘Cymbal’ comes from 1972 Sauvignon Blanc plantings from Bacchus Vineyard, as well as some from Boushey and Gamache Vineyard. This shows incredible texture and sense of weight with bright acidity with gooseberry and melon tones, as well as baking spices and Pink Lady apple flavors. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2022 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling- The 2022 ‘Poet’s Leap’ mainly comes from the Gamache Vineyard with vines that were planted in the 1980s. This wine was originally made in conjunction with German producer Armand Diehl. Only 1 G/L sugar, this Trocken style has fantastic tension with petrol, lemon/lime zest, juicy white peach, wet stone and shades of Gravenstein apple. Nicely textured, this is gorgeous stuff that is amongst the finest made in Washington State. Drink 2023-2030- 94

2021 Long Shadows ‘Dance’ Chardonnay-  The outstanding 2021 ‘Dance’ Chardonnay is mostly sourced from the Gamache, Boushey and French Creek Vineyards. Stored in cement eggs as well as neutral and new French oak barrels, this is a stunning new wine that did not undergo full malolactic fermentation. Right away toasty oak and melon tones fill the nose alongside lemon zest and shades of creme brûlée. The palate is silky smooth and refined with incredible elegance and richness. Finishing extremely long, with good freshness, this is delicious Chardonnay to savor now and over the next ten years to come. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2019 Long Shadows ‘Sequel’ Syrah- This 100% varietal ‘Sequel’ underweight 33% whole cluster fermentation and was stored in 65% new French oak for 18 months before bottling. The nose shows a dusting of white pepper with smoked meats, Kalamata olives, bacon fat and shades of boysenberry cordial. This shows great freshness and stuffing with very dense and hedonistic black fruit flavors alongside savory and salty notes. Finishing long, this is gorgeous Syrah that will live on for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2019 Long Shadows ‘Pedestal’ Merlot- The 2019 ‘Pedestal’ Merlot was stored in 80% new French oak for 22 months before bottling. Black Forest Cake and espresso grounds fill the nose alongside sandalwood tones. Silky on the mouth and showing refined tannins, this packs a punch despite the coolness of the vintage. The oak caresses the palate as the wine revels in its dense cassis, tar and black cherry cordial flavors alongside dark chocolate shavings. This has some terrific aging potential and give this an hour in the decanter if enjoying now. Drink 2023-2040- 95

2019 Long Shadows ‘Pirouette’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The brilliant 2019 Long Shadows ‘Pirouette’ Red Wine combines 56% Cabernet Sauvignon 33% Merlot and the reminder Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The wine was stored in 75% new French oak before bottling. Very pure dark fruits combine dark chocolate shavings, green herbs, anise and creme de cassis. The palate is dense and chewy with refined tannins that frame a massive core of black and blue fruit flavors. Everything is wonderfully in balance here. Kudos to Gilles Nicault who has crafted another masterpiece in a difficult vintage for Bordeaux varietals. Drink 2023-2040- 96

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Here are some of the great new wines by Moonbase Cellars.

Moonbase Cellars

September 17, 2023

I always get geared up when I am sent brand new wines from a brand new winery. Laine Pauk and Drew Pauk recently founded Moonbase Cellars to produce a range of red wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. This Walla Walla winery largely sources from Rocks District sites.

Originally from St. Louis, Laine and Drew each pursued careers in their respective fields – Drew in business management, Laine as a pharmacist. As time went on, they developed a passion for wine that took them to famous vineyards both at home and abroad. Drew obtained multiple wine certifications, including Certified Specialist in Wine (CSW) and Certified Wine Educator (CWE) from the Society of Wine Educators, and Certified Sommelier (CS) from the Guild of Master Sommeliers. They first visited Eastern Washington in 2016 and were enamored by the land. One year later they moved to Walla Walla and founded Moonbase in 2019. Drew worked with and learned winemaking via WWCC Enology and Viticulture program along with many vintages at Saviah learning from Richard Funk.  Richard sells a range of estate fruit to Drew for his wines.

The new wines were outstanding across the board. I love the new 2021 Moonbase ‘The LGM’ Red Wine (OB, 93) which is fresh and shows good concentration with great flavor range. The best wine I tasted was the incredible 2021 Moonbase ‘The Funk Vineyard’ Syrah (OB, 94) which beautifully showcases this very special vineyard in the Rocks District. Check out more at moonbasecellars.com and here are my reviews of the new wines from Moonbase Cellars.

 

2021 Moonbase Viognier- Coming form the esteemed Les Collines Vineyard, this comes off very smooth and soft on the mouth, this delivers plenty of texture and weight, with outstanding length. Crushed wet rock tones combine with cantaloupe, nectarine skin and shades of key lime on the palate. Well-balanced and elegant, this is drinking beautifully in its heady youth. Drink 2023-2029- 92

2021 Moon Lapse Red Wine- The 2021 Moon Lapse offers a smooth texture with ripe red currants, black olives, and blackberry flavors on the palate, with flinty undertones. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 90

2021 Moonbase Mourvedre- Th 2021 Moonbase Mourvedrewas sourced from the famed Ciel du Cheval Vineyard on Red Mountain. This is smoky and soft, with a generous mouthfeel and plenty of texture alongside mouth-watering acidity. Red raspberry and black plum flavors mingle well with scorched earth, tar and smoked meats on the palate. Only 71 cases made. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2021 Moonbase ‘The LGM’ Red Wine- This GSM inspired blend comes from very different sites — the Riviere Galet, Les Collines and Ciel du Cheval Vineyards. Stored in neutral oak barrels, the rocking stony character really shines here, as wet stone and Yakima cherry fruits combine with bacon fat, dried herbs and shades of creosote all parade on the palate. This is seriously good, as you can see each varietal working in unison like a Swiss-made watch. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Moonbase ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2021 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah was stored for 18 months in al neutral oak prior to bottling. This is dusty, earthy and concentrated Syrah that beautifully showcases this site. Dried sage and thyme combine with suggestions of wet stone, anise and cassis flavors. Very complex and delicious to consume now, enjoy over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Moonbase ‘River Rock Vineyard’ Syrah- Coming from this site in the Walla Walla Rocks District, the 2021 ‘River Rock Vineyard’ Syrah offers Umami and green olives on the palate that collide with wet gravel, juicy blackberry and shades of tar. Smooth and round on the mouth, this is really nicely evolved already. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Moonbase ‘Funk Vineyard’ Syrah- The acclaimed ‘Funk Vineyard’ was planted and created by iconic winemaker Richard Funk of Saviah. This 2021 Syrah from the Rocks District is very salty and savory with a smooth mouthfeel and loads of mouth-watering acidity, this is an outstanding example from this site. Nori and rich dark fruit flavors combine with milk chocolate, smoked brisket and shades of smoldering stones on the palate. A total knockout, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next eight plus years to come. Drink 2023-2031- 94

2021 Moonbase ‘Riviere Galet Vineyard’ Tempranillo- Only 78 cases made of this awesome new 2021Tempranillo that was sourced from the Walla Walla Rocks District. Hoisin sauce, worn leather and smoked meats all brilliantly combine with a silky texture on the palate. Very stony and savory, with loads of mouth-watering acidity, enjoy this beauty now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Moonbase ‘Max Q’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Max Q’ red wine combines Cabernet Sauvignon (50%) with equal parts Merlot and Syrah. Smooth and silky on the mouth, this delivers rich dark fruit flavors with chocolate, coffee grounds, seaweed and suggestions of baking spices on the palate. Showing good length and depth, this is beautifully done stuff that will drink well for another eight plus years to come. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Moonbase Merlot- The 2021 Moonbase Merlot comes from the Winesap Vineyard which is located in the Walla Walla Rocks District. Nicely balanced and poised, this shows off a smooth texture. Layers of boysenberry and roasted fig fruits combine with salty and stony accents on the palate. The flavor density is seriously good, as this is best consumed now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Moonbase Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2021 Moonbase Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from the Seven Hills Vineyard. Nicely structured, this offers medium-bodied dark fruit flavors alongside good tension and length. Nicely done, this is already well-evolved stuff to savor now and over the next eight years to come. Drink 2023-2031- 92

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It is going to be an unforgettable dinner with Bionic Wines and vigneron Christophe Baron on Thursday September 21st at Lark Seattle.

Lark Celebrates 20 Years With Bionic Wines

September 11, 2023

Celebrating nearly twenty years of business, Lark has been one of the jewels of the Pacific Northwest. To celebrate 20 years Chef John Sundstrom’s brings a special wine dinner series to Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood.
Bionic Wines and vigneron Christophe Baron will be hosting a very rare dinner on Thursday September 21st. The wines will be paired with a special meal by former Lark chef Joseph Margate. I can't wait for this special occasion. For more info check out https://www.opentable.com/booking/experiences-availability?experienceId=196614&restref=144256&rid=144256&utm_campaign=shared&utm_medium=referral&utm_source=external

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Great new bubbles by Tirriddis.

Tirriddis

September 11, 2023

I love discovering new wine brands of the Pacific Northwest. Only a couple of years ago Tirriddis began as a project with three friends —Andrew Gerow, Matthew Doutney, and Gabriel Crowell — who were all completing their degree in Viticulture & Enology at WSU Tri-Cities. The name, Tirriddis, derives from Tirage, Riddle, and Disgorge - the three steps to naturally produce sparkling wines. Focused solely on this traditional method, they use unique "non-traditional" styles to emphasize Washington's world class growing environment.

They have done a really nice job with their new range of wines. I love the NV Tirriddis ‘Washington Blend’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 90) which is a kitchen sink blend that is seriously good for the price. Learn more at https://www.tirriddis.com and here are my reviews of the new Tirriddis wines.

NV Tirrisdis ‘Blanc de Gris’ Sparkling Wine- This 100% Columbia Valley Pinot Gris sparkling wine by Tirriddis shows a soft mouthfeel upon approach. This is very well-balanced in terms of ripe fruit flavors and dosage. Honey and marzipan notes collide with bright cantaloupe and baked pear tones on the palate. The wine nicely showcases some of the hallmark characters of Washington Pinot Gris with the melon and pear tones.  Finishing long with minerals, this is a great effort that is already nicely evolved. Enjoy now and over the next five years. Drink 2022-2027- 90

NV Tirriddis ‘Barrel Fermented Blanc de Blanc’ Sparkling Wine- Made from 100% Chardonnay which was mostly sourced from the Rattlesnake Hills AVA, this was given 4.0G/L dosage and was stored in oak barrels before disgorgement. The palate is soft and inviting with a smooth texture. Very fresh with yellow plum, Bergamot and wild mushroom tones, alongside lemon zest accents, this is complex and delicious BDB that is best enjoyed now and over the next five to seven years. Drink 2022-2027- 91

NV Tirriddis ‘Yakima Valley’ Sparkling Wine- The really good NV Tirriddis ‘Yakima Valley’ Sparkling Wine shows marzipan and cardamom dusted brioche tones on the nose, with suggestions of white peach. The palate is soft and inviting with copious minerals alongside shades of wet stone and rich orchard fruits. Enjoy now and over the next five to seven years. Drink 2022-2027- 91

NV Tirriddis ‘Washington Blend’ Sparkling Wine- The kitchen sink ‘Washington Blend’ by Tirriddis is a one of a kind combination of 47% Chardonnay, 12% Riesling, and 12% Merlot, with smaller portions Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Pinot Grigio, and Viognier. Juicy green apple and kumquat flavors combine with suggestions of nectarine and wet stone. This is really good for 24 bucks. Drink 2022-2026- 90

NV Tirriddis ‘Blanc de Blanc No. 2’ Sparkling Wine- This 100% Chardonnay rendition comes from the Yakima Valley. It is very yeasty on the nose with brioche bread and suggestions of baking spices alongside Japanese pear. The palate shows racy acidity and good finesse, with a soft mousse. Lemon oil and sourdough bread flavors dominate, as this is best enjoyed now and over the next five years. Try this with fresh Kusshi oysters. Drink 2022-2027- 912

NV Tirriddis ‘House Rose Rendition No. 1’ Rose Sparkling Wine- Very soft bubbles frame a core of guava and strawberry fruit flavors with salted cantaloupe accents. Soft on the mouth, this is really nicely done. Drink 2023-2029- 90

NV Tirriddis ‘House Gris Rendition No. 1’ Sparkling Wine- This is soft and vibrant on the mouth, coming off very linear considering the varietal. Lemon/lime flavors combine with ripe nectarine and shades of kiwi on the palate. Drink this well-balanced sparkling wine now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2028- 90

NV Tirriddis ‘Barrel Fermented Blanc de Blanc Rendition No. 3’ Sparkling Wine- All Chardonnay, this delivers lemon zest and toasty oak flavors alongside a soft mousse and shades of cardamom laced pear on the palate. This is really tasty stuff to savor over the next five plus years to come. Drink 2023-2029- 91

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It was a sensational day tasting the scintillating lineup of 2021 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

Quilceda Creek

September 8, 2023

One of the shining stars of world wine, Quilceda Creek is arguably the Pacific Northwest’s most famous wine brand. It had been roughly a year since I sat beside and tasted with Paul Golitzin, one of North America’s great winemakers. I’ve tasted every vintage of Quilceda Creek and this new edition of wines are the finest overall lineup I have ever had.

For decades my family have been members at the winery, affording me the opportunity to visit these wines back in my early 20s, long before I was taking tasting notes on wines. Paul has been spending a great deal of focus on his Mach One, Champoux and Galitzine Vineyards which are producing sensational grape clusters that I saw firsthand during the past several harvests. Paul got his start in wine when he was very young, and was particularly inspired following a trip to France at age 15. Mentored by his father Alex Golitzin and his great Uncle Andre Tchelistcheff, Paul took what he had learned and developed his own style that has been the most consistently great Cabernet Sauvignon in Washington State.

Yesterday I was honored to the first wine critic to try the new 2021 Quilceda Creek wines. I tasted the wines at the winery and also later that night at home. The 2021 Quilceda Creek ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 100) is a wine that embodies perfection. This wine will go down with the 2018 as the finest ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernets that have ever been made. This is seamless, silky Washington Cabernet Sauvignon that does not get any better than this. Just as good is the more heady and hedonistic 2021 Quilceda Creek ‘Galitzine Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 100) which will easily be a 20 year wine. This massive beast really needs another year in the cellar but will appeal to literally every lover of world-class Cabernet Sauvignon. Learn more about these incredible wines at quilcedacreek.com and here are my reviews of the sensational 2021 pre-release Cabernet Sauvignon wines by Quilceda Creek.

2021 Quilceda Creek ‘CVR’ Red Wine- Arguably the finest ’CVR’ yet produced, this 2021 edition is composed of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon with 5% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot and the remainder Cabernet Franc — which is a departure from the 2020 vintage which was nearly all Cabernet. The wine spent 20 months in 50% new French oak before bottling. This displays intriguing herbal notes from the Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc. This displays more aromatic layers than the 2020 bottling. The texture is really outstanding as this is silky smooth throughout the drinking experience. Layers of mocha, tar and anise collide with copious minerals and great tension considering the warmth of the vintage. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2021 Quilceda Creek ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘Columbia Valley’ mainly comes from the Champoux Vineyard (90%) with the remainder coming from the Mach One Vineyard. A range of Cabernet Sauvignon clones are blended into this wine that spent 20 months in all new French oak before bottling. The aromatics really pop here with violets alongside potpourri and Turkish coffee, sandalwood, allspice dusted dates and shades of black licorice. The palate is generous, weightless and very generous as this is a total show stopper. Concentrated blue and black fruits with walnut, with creme de violette all brilliantly combine with the elegant mid-palate mouthfeel. Finishing extremely long, this is nothing short of perfection in a bottle. I don’t say this lightly but this is arguably the finest ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon that I have ever tasted. Give this three hours or more in the decanter if enjoying now. Drink 2024-2044- 100

2021 Quilceda Creek ‘Palengat’ Caberent Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘Palengat’ comes from the Mach One Vineyard which utilizes Clone 685 Cabernet Sauvignon. Stored in all new French oak for 20 months, this offers insane power and aromatic range on the nose. Iodine and creme de cassis tones combine with espresso grounds, purple rose petals, scorched earth and tobacco leaf notes. The palate is plush and loaded with black and blue fruit flavors. Showing its seamless mouthfeel, the wine effortless glides throughout the drinking experience. Weightless, yet showing serious force, with bright underlying tension, enjoy this beauty now and over the next twenty years to come. Give this at least three hours in the decanter if savoring in its heady youth. Drink 2024-2044- 100

2021 Quilceda Creek ‘Tchelistcheff’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘Tchelistcheff’ is a tribute to after Paul Golitzin’s uncle, Andre Tchelistcheff, who was a United States wine icon. Stored in all new French oak barrels, this wine comes from the Mach One Vineyard and utilizes Clonal 412 selections. The nose is incredibly complex with anise and black currant jelly alongside Arabica bean and suggestions of creosote. The palate is plush, soft and very refined with silky tannins that frame a core of deeply concentrated black fruits. With more air cedar, sweet pipe tobacco and suggestions of toasted hazelnut and salty accents all add to the enjoyment. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next twenty years to come. Drink 2024-2044- 99

2021 Quilceda Creek ‘Galitzine’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A total stunner, the 100% varietal 2021 Quilceda Creek ‘Galitzine’ Cabernet Sauvignon utilizes Clonal 8 selection and was stored in all new French oak before bottling. On the nose this takes on heady dark rose petal notes alongside tar, black licorice and smoldering stones. The palate is very dense and layered with fabulous concentration and underlying freshness. Huckleberry, dark chocolate shavings, pencil lead and shades of anise with glorious length greets you on the palate. This will easily be a 20 plus year wine. Enjoy this total heavyhitter now and over the next twenty years to come. Drink 2024-2044- 100

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Great photo of new Delmas Director of Winemaking, Brooke Delmas Robertson.

Delmas

September 7, 2023

A brand that has created one of the finest, most singular wines you can taste in the Pacific Northwest, Delmas was a vision of crafting world-class Syrah from the cobblestones of Milton-Freewater. It was more than a decade ago they founded the meticulously farmed SJR Vineyard. It is a thriving site that is a must see for anyone crazy about wines from this region. Sitting with Delmas founder Steve Robertson and new director of winemaking Brooke Robertson, they talked about the warm, 2021 vintage. “This vintage was a challenge” said Brooke. “It was extraordinarily hot and we had low yields. Every other shoot just didn’t produce a cluster so we had like one cluster a shoot and there was only 55 cases made because of that.”

Both Brooke and Steve were excited that their first pick of the harvest was scheduled for this Friday. They spoke with glee about the pending harvest “as we have the perfect storm with the weather” said Steve. Brooke as a new mother has been working hard to maintain her work/life balance. “Trying to find that balance between the fun that you want to have with her and the work that needs to be done can be difficult” she said.

Viognier was a bit of an enigma for the Robertsons when they first planted the varietal in their stony vineyard. However, over time Brooke described the farming techniques which have changed to their benefit. “We have been farming Viognier differently. We had to change that into a double guyot cane situation where we are getting more balance there. Viognier is such a dramatic variety and it is all over the place, sending shoots all over the place. It is weird but it works here in the vineyard and getting to the cane pruned system allows this to be more stable. That allows for the production of the clusters to be more prolific and in balance.” She continued “We can get to a regular level of production so we know that it is not a question any more. We know how many buds that we are setting and that also allows for a speediness of ripeness. Things ripen faster and we don’t have to water as much.”

Syrah was easier to cope with in 2021, other than “Yields being way down” said Brooke. “We had a warm Autumn which allowed the flavors to really develop nicely” she said. “We were able to pick a bit early and achieved rich flavors from this vintage.” Regarding the 2021 Syrah “We knew early in barrel that the Syrah was in a great place” Steve said.

The new wines from the 2021 vintage are outrageously good. They have crafted arguably the finest Delmas Syrah that I have ever tasted. The 2021 Delmas Syrah (OB, 97) is a complete stunner with a dizzying bouquet that yields an utterly sensational range of aromatics. This is a must-purchase for any lover of the Walla Walla Rocks District. Learn more at delmaswines.com and here are my reviews of the new 2021 Delmas future release wines.

2021 Delmas ‘SJR Vineyard’ Viognier- A standout white wine in this vintage, the 2021 Delmas ‘SJR Vineyard’ Viognier spent six hours on the skins and then was stored in puncheons with continuous battonage. This was bottled in December 2022. Right away a whiff of fresh honeysuckle vines brings you in, as white peach, passion fruit and shades of star jasmine all combine in this highly fragrant bouquet. The palate is rich, viscous and simply irresistible. Fat on the mouth, this takes on an unctuous texture. Showing glorious length and viscosity, this is fantastic stuff to savor at a slightly warmer temperature — so don’t serve too cold! Drink 2023-2036- 96

2021 Delmas ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah- The stunning 2021 Delmas ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah is another sensational effort from this famed outpost in the Walla Walla Rocks District of Milton-Freewater. Coming from this site that is set on large cobblestones. Umami, green olive tapenade and Hoisin sauce as well as Asian spices mark the nose alongside boysenberry and tar notes. This shows a fantastic underlying finesse with a silky smooth mouthfeel and loads of depth, concentration and mouth-watering acidity. Finishing extremely long, this just might be the best Delmas Syrah ever made. Drink 2023-2032- 97

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This vertical tasting of ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay shows that Oregon Chardonnay can age gracefully for decades.

Argyle 'Nuthouse' Chardonnay Vertical Tasting

September 6, 2023

I am a huge champion of Oregon Chardonnay. And I love all styles that the top producers make (limited oak, heavier on oak) because the styles bring so much diversity to the game. Those not on the Oregon Chardonnay Train might have their head in the sand. The quality of Oregon Chardonnay just continues to improve as more and more producers move into the arena. We have to thank the original producers of top Chardonnay like Argyle, Domaine Serene, Bergstrom, Evening Land and Walter Scott for that.

Each year Oregon holds a ‘Chardonnay Celebration’ that is a must for any Chardonnay nut. I won’t forget the dosage trials that Argyle winemaker Nate Klostermann guided us on roughly a year ago. One of the bubbles masters of Oregon, Nate has also quietly been making some of the great Chardonnays in the state under the Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ label. For years I was buying these wines before I was reviewing wines professionally. The ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay typically comes from the Lone Star and Spirit Hill Vineyards. Oak is moderate on these wines, usually around 30-40%. Texturally these wines are very gratifying and they just seem to age gracefully regardless of vintage. Case in point is the 2007 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) which is obviously a better vintage for Chardonnay than Pinot Noir, but vines still struggled with achieving phenolic ripeness in the valley. Such was not the case for this wine, as there was plenty of rich fruit flavors with plenty of nerve. The new wine, the 2021 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) is just as good with sensational tension and texture. This will easily go for another ten plus years. Think Oregon Chardonnay can’t age? Think again! This is a beautiful example of how Oregon Chardonnay, like Sonoma or Napa Chardonnay, can achieve greatness through tertiary notes as they evolve in the cellar. Learn more about these outstanding wines at argylewinery.com and here are my tasting notes from a sensational tasting of Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay.

Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay

2021 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay- This 2021 ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay was largely sourced from the Lone Star Vineyard with some coming from the Spirit Hill Vineyard. Aged in roughly 20% new French oak, this is beautifully crafted wine with serious richness and underlying tension with salty. Ripe orchard and citrus fruits collide with toasted Macadamia nut notes. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2017 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay- The 2017 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay is a gorgeous showing from this slightly cooler vintage. Ripe peach and pear notes combine with salted praline and shades of brioche on the palate. Finishing long with good weight and tension, this beauty is singing right now. Drink 2023-2032- 94

2015 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay- Already beautifully evolved, the 2015 ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay is an incredible wine from a great vintage that come from the Lone Star Vineyard. The texture and sense of weight here is flat out fabulous. Juicy apple and pear flavors combine with saline drenched lemon and nutmeg dusted brioche flavors. This is just incredible to enjoy right now. Drink 2023-2031- 95

2009 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay- This wine combines Knudsen, Lone Star and Stoller Vineyards. This is very nicely evolved on the nose with nutmeg and allspice notes alongside pastry crust, nectarine and shades of lemon zest. Soft and round with a smooth texture, this is drinking beautifully right now. Drink 2023-2028- 93

2007 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay- Coming from this slightly cooler vintage, 2007 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay is an incredible wine that shows serious weight and underlying verve. Dense lemon oil, white peach and pie crust flavors combine with shades of roasted pineapple. Drink 2023-2031- 95

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It was a sensational tasting at Domaine Serene as they have produced the finest wine that I have tasted in the past year from the Willamette Valley — their 2018 ‘Monogram’ Pinot Noir.

Domaine Serene

September 6, 2023

You don’t forget your first visit to Domaine Serene. Mine came back in 2002 There might have been many changes since then but the quality in the glass has remained paramount since this Dundee Hills winery was founded in the 1990s. I have enjoyed many of these wines in my personal collection over the years as they age so gracefully.

Last week I had the chance to visit the property and sit down with the winemaking team. The new wines were just sensational — some of the finest you will find in Oregon. This is the standard set by Dundee Hills pioneers Grace and Ken Evenstad.

I always tell people that Domaine Serene is a must visit for wine enthusiasts as it is definitely one of the most beautiful you will find in the Pacific Northwest.

Before coming to Domaine Serene, winemaker Michael Fay made brilliant Pinot Noirs at Goldeneye. Michael has done a great job with his new release wines. Don’t miss out on the Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve M.V. 5’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 95) which is clearly one of the finest, most refined sparkling wines you will taste in Oregon. This has a very Krug-like texture and flavor profile.  But the best wine I tasted, and the finest wine I have tasted from Oregon this year was the 2018 Domaine Serene ‘Monogram’ Pinot Noir (OB, 99) which will rival anything in its region. Texturally this is ethereal and pillowy. Dense and layered with a cornucopia of dark fruit and non-fruit flavors, this has some sensational aging potential. Huge congrats to the winemaking team in crafting this bottling which is clearly the finest ‘Monogram’ yet produced. Learn more about this famed Oregon estate at http://domaineserene.com/ Here are the incredible new release wines by Domaine Serene.

Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Dundee Hills Brut M.V. 5 Sparkling Wine- This is now the 5th edition of this beautiful wine. This was aged on the lees for three years and then spent eight months in the barrel and was given 8G/L dosage. Roughly equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this offers a silky mousse with plenty of lemon oil and oyster shell flavors alongside hazelnuts and shades of white truffle. This is very Oregon meets Krug and will go neck and neck from anything in this region. Enjoy over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 95

Domaine Serene ‘Fleur de Vie’ Dundee Hils Demi-Sec M.V. 4 Sparkling Wine- The really good Domaine Serene ‘Fleur de Vie’ Dundee Hils Demi-Sec M.V. 4 Sparkling Wine is one of the great wines of its kind. The wine offers loads of mouth-watering acidity with a touch of sweetness with ripe nectarine, mango and Pink Lady apple flavors alongside the beautiful tension. 28G/L dosage. Drink 2023-2032- 93

2021 Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Chardonnay- The 2021 Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Chardonnay is a blockbuster effort from this warm vintage as 40% of this wine was sourced from the Triple Crown Vineyard. The nose is outstanding with toasted walnut, white peach, wets stone and shades of lemon rind. This is very ripe and heady with an outstanding texture and sense of weight. This beauty will easily go for another ten plus years — and is already providing some serious drinking enjoyment. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2021 Domaine Serene ‘Clos de Lune’ Chardonnay- This comes from the two vineyard blocks that are clone 548 Chardonnay. This site is known for citrus and spice. The wine is oily and unctuous, as this is a full-bodied beauty. Nutty and stony tones combine with shades of nectarine, lemon zest and brioche tones. Finishing exceedingly long this is one of the great ‘Clos de Lune’ bottling that I have tasted. Enjoy now and over the next twelve plus years to come. Drink 2023-2037- 96

2021 Domaine Serene ‘Triple Crown Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2021 Domaine Serene ‘Triple Crown Vineyard’ Chardonnay is a stunning effort from this warm vintage. Showing great weight and underlying verve, this offers a seamless texture as this glides throughout the drinking experience. Pear and green apple flavors mark the palate, alongside toasted oak, roasted pineapple and shades of vanilla cream. Finishing exceedingly long this is a polished, rich effort that will drink well for another fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2023-2038- 96

2021 Domaine Serene ‘Cote Sud Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The gorgeous 2021 Domaine Serene ‘Cote Sud Vineyard’ Chardonnay is another complex and delicious wine from this famed Dundee Hills estate. This site was first planted back in 1991 as the wine revels in its core of nectarine and oyster shell tones that combine with wet stone and papaya flavors. The palate is plush and soft with a refined texture and beautiful length. This is a complete wine that is already very nicely evolved. Drink 2023-2038- 96

2021 Domaine Serene ‘Etoile Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This comes from the western side of the Dundee Hills property which is a western facing site that is typically picked the latest of the single vineyard locations which was planted back in 1999. The nose is heady and intense with lemon oil, white truffle, roasted Macadamia nut and sides of Gravenstein apple. Rich and intense with a soft mouthfeel and glorious length, this is beautiful wine that is drinking beautiful even at the two year mark Drink 2023-2038- 96

2020 Chevalier de la Cree ‘Cote de Beaune’ Pinot Noir- This 2020 ‘Cote de Beaune’ is a negotiant wine that comes from several regions in the Cote de Beaune. This is round and generous with wet stone and a rich core of red fruits that combine with citrus rind and shades of anise. While initially a bit reticent, with great finesse, this will easily go for another ten plus years. Drink 2023-2037- 92

2021 Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Pinot Noir- The brilliant 2021 Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Pinot Noir will be released in March 2023. This is incredibly harmonious stuff wth serious depth, concentration and nuance. Black truffle shavings combine with red currants, kumquat zest and boysenberry with shades of Umami on the palate. Finishing long, with a seamless texture, and fantastic weight, this is already beautifully evolved stuff that has a long way in the cellar to go. Drink 2023-2039- 95

2006 Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Pinot Noir- The 2006 ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Pinot Noir comes from this warm vintage that saw a range of challenges. Pomegranate seed and wild mushroom combine with peat moss and satsuma orange zest on the palate. With bright acidity and great weight, this will cellar well for another five to seven years. Drink 2023-2029- 95

2019 Domaine Serene ‘Mark Bradford Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The stunning 2019 Domaine Serene ‘Mark Bradford Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is named after the Evenstad’s son, as this western-facing site, planted in 1991, is located on the western side of the estate. This Wadenswil and Pommard clone Pinot Noir offers serious texture and richness with tobacco leaf, red currants, pomegranate seed and shades of white pepper on the palate. Finishing long this is gorgeous Pinot Noir that is already drinking beautifully. Considering the challenges of the vintage, this is a stunning new Pinot Noir that will go for potentially another twenty years. Drink 2023-2040- 96

2020 Maison Evenstad ‘Volnay Les Brouillards’ Pinot Noir- The 2020 ‘Volnay Les Brouillards’ is a wine comes from a foggy site, set on limestone soils. Cranberry with wild mushroom, peat moss and blackberries all combine on the palate, showing gravel undertones. Very heady with soft tannins, this is beautiful, well-structured wine that will easily go for twenty years. Drink 2023-2042- 94

2018 Domaine Serene ‘Monogram’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Monogram’ is a stunning bottling that flirts with perfection as this is a knockout blend of Pinot Noir from the Grace, Mark Bradford and Cote Sud Vineyards. Stored in 70% new French oak, the 2018 ‘Monogram’ deftly embodies this warm vintage. Once on the nose this takes on roasted date, huckleberry, red rose water, peat moss, and shades of blood orange zest. The palate is soft and round with serious power and weight. Finishing extremely long, with ripe black fruits, this is an absolutely stunning wine that is quite simply the finest wine from the Willamette Valley that I have tasted this past year. Drink 2023-2043- 99

2020 Domaine Serene ‘Grand Cheval’ Oregon Red Wine- The 2020 Domaine Serene ‘Grand Cheval’ comes from the Seven Hills Vineyard and includes Pinot Noir from the estate vineyard. Very juicy with bright acidity, this offers blackberry and black plum notes alongside salty accents and shades of smoked meats on the palate. A touch more linear than the ’18 and ’19 editions of this wine, the 2020 is ready to go now. Drink 2023-2029- 93

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Here are the beautiful new wines by Cristom Vineyards.

Cristom Vineyards

September 5, 2023

It had been several years since I had sat down in the board room at Cristom Vineyards and tasted their beautiful wines. A producer that is all about sustainability and taking care of their land, Cristom Vineyards hosted me for a tour and tasting last week. This is one of the beautiful spots in the Willamette Valley, with incredible views and soil diversity. Standing at the top of the vineyards, this windswept location looked nothing like the soils at the bottom of the hill where the winery sits. There has been more of a focus made on their Chardonnay program and I loved the releases that they crafted from the 2021 vintage (https://owenbargreen.com/blog/2023/5/15/cristom-vineyards).

But it is clear that Cristom is known for their Pinots. Their Mt. Jefferson Cuvee can be found at top restaurants across the world, and I have even seen this bottling at Daniel NYC. Back in 2019 they hired a new winemaker from Sonoma. Daniel Estrin serves as both winemaker and vineyard manager, having formerly served at Red Car as well as Craggy Range in New Zealand before landing his position Littorai. I am very excited to see his impact on the Cristom portfolio.

The new wines I tried were all from the 2021 vintage, one that had consistently warm weather during the summer. Check out their entry level 2021 Cristom Vineyards ‘Mt. Jefferson Cuvee’ Pinot Noir (OB, 92) which is a sensational value and packs a punch for under 50 bucks. I adored the new 2021 Cristom Vineyards ‘Louise Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) which is already showing its depth and concentration, with citrus rind accents and a smooth texture. Check out more about these outstanding wines at https://www.cristomvineyards.com and here are my reviews of the new releases by Cristom.

2021 Cristom ‘Mt. Jefferson Cuvee’ Pinot Noir- Stored in 22% new French oak for 11 monnths,, this undercut 44% whole cluster fermentation. Always one of the great values in Oregon, the 2021 ‘Mt. Jefferson Cuvee’ shows really good aromatic range with dried herbs and cranberry notes alongside shades of teaberry. The palate is fresh and shows a smooth texture, with good length. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2021 Cristom ‘Jesse Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2021 Cristom ‘Jesse Vineyard’ Pinot Noir comes from this very steep site in the Eola-Amity Hills. Stored in 38% new French oak before bottling, and given 52% whole cluster fermentation, the Pinot Noir takes on layers of savory herbs alongside bright red currants, Nori and shades of freshly tilled salty soils. Very structured, with refined tannins, this beautiful wine is already showing brilliantly. This shows a ton of aging potential with its weight and bright underlying acidity. Drink 2023-2040- 94

2021 Cristom ‘Marjorie Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Stored in 35% new French oak, this saw 46% whole cluster fermentation gorgeous ‘Marjorie Vineyard’ Pinot Noir shows dried cranberry with wild strawberry alongside blackberry tones. The palate is plush and soft with a seamless mouthfeel and great underlying finesse. Finishing long, this is lively, lovely stuff to enjoy now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2021 Cristom ‘Louise Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 ‘Louise’ is beautifully perfumed with red rose petals alongside Nori and shades of tart red fruits. The palate displays loads of mouth-watering acidity with serious freshness and lovely citrus rind flavors that combine with tart pomegranate seed and red raspberry. Showing serious tension, this is brilliant Pinot Noir that has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2021 Cristom ‘Eileen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Stored in 34% new French oak before bottling. This comes from the highest portion of the Cristom Estate. The wine displays a dizzying array of red fruits on the nose alongside potpourri and shades of kumquat zest and baking spices. Very juicy and dense with loads of crunchy red fruit flavors alongside menthol, dried herbs and shades of orange rind, this is drinking beautifully already. Given its structure and flavor density this will easily go for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2021 Cristom ‘Paul Gerrie Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This was stored in 45% new French oak before bottling. This wine comes from the northern end at the Cristom Estate. The smooth texture entices as layers of boysenberry fruit combine with stony soils, white pepper, soy sauce and plenty of Umami accents. Finishing long with great power and verve, this is going to be a twenty year wine. Drink 2023-2043- 95

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Here I am at King Estate with head winemaker Brent Stone (L).

King Estate

September 5, 2023

Sitting across from winemaker Brent Stone, we tasted and chatted about the warm 2021 growing season It had been several years since we had sat together and tasted on their sun-soaked patio. This edition of tasting was done indoors, as the rain fell from the late August sky. Such is not a typical occurrence at King Estate as temperatures this time of year usually are 90 degrees-plus.

Pinot Gris might be thought by Oregon wine lovers as the least expressive of Oregon wines but decades ago visionary Ed King realized that this end of the valley was perfect for making a world-class Pinot Gris. Winemaker Brent Stone has now been at the helm since 2011. He has been doing a fantastic job with the wines that range in SKUs from Sauvignon Blanc and Rose to Sparkling Wines and inky Syrah. King Estate is quite simply a must-visit, as arguably Oregon’s most beautiful winery.

For this tasting I feel that these are quite possibly the finest overall wines that I have tasted from this house in the past ten years. I love the new 2021 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris (OB, 94) which is the top Gris bottling from this house. In this wine Brent Stone selects only the top 1-2% of barrels as this wine exudes class with its flavor range and silky mouthfeel. I also loved the new 2021 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is just an infant in the glass, with loads of aging potential and fantastic concentration. Learn more about this famed Oregon estate at https://www.kingestate.com and here are my tasting notes from the new King Estate wines.

2021 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris- This outstanding Pinot Gris was stored entirely in stainless steel with weekly battonage before bottling. The winemaking goes through weeks of grading and trials for this wine. The 2021 ‘Domaine’ shows buttered brioche tones on the nose alongside green papaya, Macadamia nut and shades of cantaloupe. The palate is soft and refined with bright underlying acidity. Finishing long, this is beautiful wine that has another ten plus years to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2021 King Estate ‘Seven Rows’ Pinot Gris- The ‘Seven Rows’ saw two different frementaitons that saw five days cold soak on the skins at 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Red florals combine with red cherry and shades of red raspberry on the nose. This saw Sur lie aging with weekly battonage. The palate shows a silky mouthfeel with ripe red and melon fruits that combine with the bright acidity on the palate. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2021 King Estate ‘Havlin Vineyard’ Gruner Veltliner- The Havlin Vineyard is located in the Van Duzer Corridor, as this was stored in natural oak and this saw weekly battonage before bottling. Green papaya and mango notes combine with suggestions of baking spices and wet stone. The palate is soft and refined with bright underlying finesse. This is really one of the best wines of its kind in Oregon. Drink 2023-2029- 92

2021 King Estate ‘Kennel Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This 2021 Chardonnay comes from the Kennel Vineyard which is led by John and Jeremy Kennel. This is not far from Croft and Freedom Hill Vineyards, as mid-Willamette Valley wine was stored in 26% new French oak before bottling. Aged for 18 months, this offers toasty brioche on the nose alongside nutmeg dusted apple, and shades of ripe pineapple on the nose. Showing a seamless texture this has beautiful underlying finesse with lemon oil and ripe tropical fruit flavors. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2021 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Noir was stored in 26% new French oak before bottling and represents the top one percent of Estate Pinot Noir barrels. Red currants combine with freshly tilled soils, Black cherry and shades of dried herbs. The palate is soft and refined with silky tannins that frame a core of red and dark fruit flavors. Finishing long, with good viscosity, this is already sgiwubg beautifully right now. Drink 2023-2040- 94

2021 King Estate ‘Dijon Clone 777’ Pinot Noir- The 2022 ‘Dijon Clone 777’ Pinot Noir is a gorgeous effort from this warm vintage. Once on the nose this takes on layers of dark raspberry that combines with black truffle, and shades of wild blackberry on the nose. The palate is deep and concentrated with silky tannins and a rich core of dark fruits that combine with bright acidity, citrus blossom water and shades of stony terroir. This will age gracefully for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2021 King Estate ‘Chehalem Mountains Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This comes from a legacy vineyard that was planted back in 1968. This is the first vintage that King Estate has made this wine. Pretty guava and red currants combine with salty, stony soils. Fresh and vibrant with a soft texture, this is already nicely evolved stuff that will live on for decades. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2021 King Estate ‘GSM’ Red Wine- This is sourced from the Rogue Valley as well as the Columbia Valley. This was stored in a small portion of new French oak before bottling. Fresh and lively, this shows a soft mouthfeel, with savory and salty tones alongside black cherry and blackberry flavors. Drink 2023-2031-91

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Mo Ayoub makes some of the best wines in the Willamette Valley.

Ayoub

September 2, 2023

Today we share one of the Oregon greats that continues to fly under the radar. Ayoub is the brainchild of Mo Ayoub who has been producing world class Pinot Noir wines for more than a decade. Back in 2001 Mo Ayoub planted his namesake vineyard and began crafting his wines in 2004. Each Pinot Noir artfully showcases its individual site as these are highly memorable and terroir-driven Pinot Noir wines. Mo made the great decision to work with with one of the great winemaking talents in Oregon, consulting winemaker Robert Brittan. Mo makes a range of brilliant bottlings, including new bubbles which I tasted with him during my visit there last week.

Mo is very reflective and self-critical. He is one of the honest people in our industry that seeks nothing less than to craft stunning wines year after year. He has definitely achieved that. I recently had the chance to review all of the new releases from the 2021 vintage. I adored the new 2021 Ayoub Vineyards Chardonnay (OB, 95) which might just be the best Chardonnay bottling that Mo Ayoub has made. This is rich and layered with tons of aging potential. Even better is the single barrel Pinot Noir, the 2021 Ayoub ‘Latifah’ Pinot Noir (OB, 96) which is named after Mo Ayoub’s mother.  This is very dense and heady, having potential to be a 20 year wine. Learn more about the beautiful Ayoub wines at https://www.ayoubwines.com Here are the great wines by Ayoub.

2021 Ayoub ‘Dundee Hills’ Chardonnay- Another year, another incredible Chardonnay bottling by Mo Ayoub. This 2021 edition comes from the Dundee Hills AVA and shows wonderfully flinty tones on the nose alongside Japanese pear and Key lime zest. The palate is beautifully textured, showing an amazing combination of weight, acidity and texture. Finishing exceedingly long, this is a blockbuster effort that is not to be missed. This beauty will easily go for another ten plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2021 Ayoub ‘Memoirs’ Pinot Noir- Year after year, the Memoirs Pinot Noir is one of the most emotionally resonant Pinots made in the region, as it is a tribute to Mo Ayoub’s relatives that have passed on. This edition displays a family photo from 1964 on a beach in Lebanon. This edition is jam-packed full of flavor. Rich red fruits parade with blood orange rind, cigar ash and shades of red rose water on the palate. A stunning new wine that comes in at a reasonably price, enjoy the 2021 Memoirs now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2035- 94

2021 Ayoub ‘Avant-Garde Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc- Undoubtedly one of the unique wines made in the Willamette Valley, this Cabernet Franc comes from this Dundee Hills AVA vineyard. Herbal and loaded with tannins, with pretty good mid-palate depth, this shows bright black and blue fruit flavors with chocolate and coffee ground undertones. Well-done! Drink 2023-2035- 92

2021 Ayoub ‘Anonimo Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This concentrated and delicious 2021 Pinot Noir opens with beautiful red and black florals that combine with stony and silty soil tones on the nose. The palate is plush and shows beautiful tension, weight and power. It is quite honestly a stunning new bottling that is already beautifully evolved with its core of red and dark fruit flavors. I can see this beauty cellaring well for another fifteen years to come. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2021 Ayoub ‘Estate Whole Cluster’ Pinot Noir- The rich and layered 2021 Ayoub ‘Estate Whole Cluster’ Pinot Noir is a big and burly, warm-vintage rendition of this wine. It displays gobs of crunchy red fruits on the palate, with pink grapefruit, loamy soil and light tannins framing everything nicely. Quite primary and heady right now, give this at least another year in the bottle to fully evolve. Drink 2024-2036- 95

2021 Ayoub ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- The gorgeous new 2021 ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir by Ayoub beautifully showcases this rich vintage in the Willamette Valley. Once on the nose this shows off potpourri with intense red currant and pomegranate seed notes that combine with stony soils. The palate is soft and seamless, with refined tannins and a very lengthy finish. A complete wine, this is already nicely evolved — and will show marvelously for another fifteen years to come. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2021 Ayoub ‘Latifah’ Pinot Noir- The gorgeous 2021 ‘Latifah’ is a fitting tribute to Mo Ayoub’s mother who sadly is no longer with us. This beauty is very pure with a literal cornucopia of red fruits that greet you — from strawberry and raspberry to tart pomegranate seed notes that collide with shades of forest floor and white truffle shavings. Salty and savory with a seamless mouthfeel and wonderful length, this beauty is absolutely singing in its heady youth. Only one barrel made, so get this while you can. Drink 2023-2038- 96

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Here are the beautiful new releases by King Estate.

King Estate

August 25, 2023

The southern end of the Willamette Valley is a remote, beautiful and desolate location that houses one of the great estates in Oregon. Ed King had the vision to start his winery here many decades ago and built the winery into a national industry power. It is quite remarkable that King Estate is one of the few wineries in North America (potentially the only one) where more vines of Pinot Gris are grown than any other varietal. There is a reason for this — year after year King Estate delivers two of the best Pinot Gris bottling in the state, with their entry level wine and their top of the line ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris. I have had every ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris back to 2011 and I have been pretty overwhelmed with the quality in this bottling which shows amazing texture and range. These also age marvelously as I did a retrospective on these wines a few years back and found them to be standout wines in even hot vintages.

One of the most beautiful Oregon wineries, I have cherished my visits with winemaker Brent Stone, who has been at the helm since 2011. He originally came to King Estate to serve as lab manager and moved his way up to head winemaker.  Brent crafts some beautiful Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir wines but is now also making some fantastic sparkling wines. This brand has been synonymous with value. His ‘Willamette Valley’ collection of wines has been synonymous with value. I adore the fresh and vibrant 2022 King Estate Pinot Gris (OB, 91) which offers nice texture and finesse, showing excellent varietal character. Also fantastic is the 2022 King Estate Rose (OB, 91) which also is nicely textured and shows a very pretty core of red fruits with earthy undertones. This is a perfect wine to enjoy during the last warm moments of summer. Learn more about this famed Oregon estate at https://www.kingestate.com and here are my tasting notes from the new King Estate wines.

2022 King Estate ‘Oregon’ Sauvignon Blanc- You don’t see too many Sauvignon Blancs with the ‘Oregon’ designation. This 2022 edition of the wine has 5% Semillon blended in and mainly comes from the Willig and Barrel vineyards. Fresh and soft on the mouth, this delivers green apple and lemon peel flavors that mingle with copious stony minerals on the palate. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2027- 90

2022 King Estate ‘Artisan Series’ Pinot Gris- This 2022 Pinot Gris comes from a range of sites in the Willamette Valley and was aged in stainless steel before bottling. It comes off wonderfully juicy with mango and kiwi fruit flavors alongside a good sense of tension on the palate. Very fresh and fragrant, this beautiful wine is good to go right now and is begging for a hot summer day. Drink 2023-2028- 90

2022 King Estate ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Gris- Mainly coming from the King Estate Vineyard, the 2022 King Estate Pinot Gris is another fantastic bottling from this storied house. Once on the nose this offers a smooth texture with bright Japanese pear and Mandarin orange zest flavors alongside shades of gooseberry. This is a delicious effort that is best consumed now in its bright youth. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2022 King Estate Rose- Made entirely from Pinot Noir grapes, this mostly was sourced from the King Estate Vineyard as well as the Pfeiffer and Bradshaw vineyards. Juicy and round on the mouth, this offers cranberry, wild mushroom and strawberry flavors with racy acidity and a smooth texture. This is brilliantly done. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2021 Inscription ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- Coming from a range of sites including the King Estate, Stagger and Greiten Vineyards, this offers juicy red currant and red cherry flavors with tobacco leaf and orange peel notes. Juicy, showing good finesse, this awesome value is a delight to drink right now. Drink 2023-2028- 90

2019 The Soldier ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon has 15% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc blended in. Coming from this cooler vintage, the wine reveals a soft mouthfeel with great balance and poise. Medium-bodied dark currants dance with tobacco leaf, coffee grounds and shades of menthol. This is really good stuff for the price. Drink 2023-2030- 91

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Here are the amazing wines by Kobayashi and winemaker Travis Allen.

Kobayashi

August 24, 2023

As I sat across from winemaker Travis Allen, I was glowing with delight. This was now the second time they had made their famed ‘Minzunera’ bottling, using eight thousand dollar oak barrels that came from ancient Japanese forests. It is quite a remarkable journey for Allen and his wife Mario Allen. Over the last several years the Allens have taken the Washington wine scene by storm. A trained nurse-anesthetist, Allen crafts highly novel, single vineyard bottlings that are made in limited production. The wines have a wonderful harmony to them, showing wonderful poise, weight and structure.

Last night I tried the new Kobayashi wines and I had to write about them immediately. I am blown away with his new 2022 Kobayashi Marsanne-Roussane (OB, 97) which is amongst the finest white wines I have tasted in the past year from the Pacific Northwest. A wine that is nothing short of perfection in the bottle is the absolutely thrilling 2021 Kobayashi ‘Mizunara’ Cabernet Franc (OB, 100) which will blow your mind. One sip and you will see that there is nothing like this beauty in the world. It is not quite Biserno or Cheval Blanc — it is a wine all its own. Learn more at https://kobayashiwinery.com and here are my reviews of the sensational new wines by Kobayashi winery. 

2021Kobayashi Viognier- This 2021 ‘WeatherEye Vineyard’ bottling took a bit more time to ferment and was released a bit later than typical. This also spent more time in the barrel, as this is the last vintage that utilized any new French oak. On the nose this takes on honeysuckle notes alongside shades of green papaya, star jasmine and starfruit notes. The palate is fresh and also very viscous with a silky texture and incredible length. The mouth-watering acidity is truly amazing here. Drink 2023-2031- 96

2022 Kobayashi Marsanne-Roussane- The 2022 Kobayashi Marsanne-Roussane comes from the WeatherEye Vineyard. A gorgeous combination of of 59% Marsanne with the remainder Roussanne, This saw a week on the skins in the cold room and then was aged in 40% new French cigar-shaped barrels prior to bottling. This also saw battonage at the beginning of oak aging. The nose really pops with aromas of ripe peach and apricot notes alongside allspice dusted pastry crust, and suggestions of Macadamia nut. The palate is seamless throughout the drinking experience. This comes off fat on the tongue, showing saline drenched peach and shortbread flavors. This is truly up there with the finest white wines of the Pacific Northwest. Enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 97

2021 Kobayashi ‘Skin Contact’ Marsanne- This spent a whopping 41 days on the skins in stainless steel. The wine was just drained into a sandstone vessel. This has just a kiss of sweetness with a literal cornucopia of flavors. Nectarine, red currants, strawberry, and sweetened kiwi flavors with refined tannins all combine on the palate. Showing impressive viscosity, freshness and length, this beauty is not for the weary. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2029- 96

2021 Kobayashi Cabernet Franc- Mostly sourced from the Blue Mountain Vineyard, the 2021 Kobayashi Cabernet Franc is the finest edition of this wine made yet. The wine was stored in 1200L oval foudre before bottling. This shows a touch of wintergreen on the nose with bright black fruits, alongside baking spices and suggestions of loamy soils. This is utterly seamless on the palate with refined tannins and underlying garrigue notes. Dark currants, creme de violette and baking spices all come together in unison on the palate. Give this at least an hour of air before consuming. Drink 2023-2031- 96

2022 Kobayashi ‘WeatherEye Vineyard Sans Soufre’ Syrah- The outrageously good 2022 Kobayashi ‘WeatherEye Vineyard Sans Soufre’ Syrah is a world-class wine that is drinking marvelously now. This was 100% whole cluster fermented and was stored in 100% neutral oak puncheons before bottling, with no punchdowns or pump-overs. Very dark in the glass, the wine is outrageously perfumed with white pepper dusted bacon, green olive tapenade, black currants, espresso grounds, purple rose petals and shades of pencil lead. This is seamless and elegant wine with sensational flavor range and viscosity. Round and generous on the palate, with fantastic length and underlying finesse, this is a total stunner that will drinking marvelously now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2023-2031- 98

2021 Kobayashi ‘WeatherEye Vineyard’ Syrah- Another incredible effort, the 2021 ‘WeatherEye Vineyard’ Syrah has a touch of Viognier (2-3%) added, as this was stored in almost all neutral oak prior to bottling. Immediately gratifying on the nose, this shows off creosote aromatics alongside beef drippings, green peppercorns and shades of blackberry pie, with light red florals from the Viognier. The palate is very fresh and shows tremendous viscosity, coming off fat on the mouth. This is just incredibly gratifying to drink right now in its heady youth. This has both the viscosity and underlying freshness to cellar well into the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 97

2019 Kobayashi ‘Extended Barrel Age’ Syrah- This beautiful wine was stored for 41 months in new 500L puncheon barrels before bottling. Potpourri and plenty of freshly cracked white pepper combine with soy sauce, boysenberry torte, Korean short ribs and suggestions of exotic spices all meld together in the glass. The palate is seamless and heady with plenty of exotic appeal in its outstanding flavor range. Generous and broad-shouldered, this elegant and intense Syrah will cellar well over the next eight plus years. Drink 2023-2031- 98

2021 Kobayashi ‘Mizunara’ Cabernet Franc- This is now the second edition made of this wine following the incredible 2019 bottling. The 2021 ‘Mizunara’ is the only wine of its kind, as the barrel costs a whopping 8 thousand dollars including shipping. As one of the most expensive wines in Washington State, it is also one of the finest that you will find. Cedar and exotic spices combine in this downright explosive nose with red currants, coffee grounds, pipe tobacco and hints of fresh sage. Seamless and elegant, with serious savory notes, refined tannins and downright insane flavor range, you won’t find anything like this in the world. Try to procure a bottle if you can, as there are only 100 cases made. Drink 2023-2043- 100

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