A winery that keeps under the radar, Smith-Madrone has been dry-farming on Spring Mountain since 1971. It was this high-elevation site set on Aiken Stoney Clay loam that drew the Smiths to this region. They saw the potential for Cabernet Sauvignon here but also Riesling and Chardonnay. For my palate the Smith-Madrone Chardonnay has been a pillar of consistency.
It is the diligence of Stuart Smith that led to such great wines as he chose specific slopes with different exposures for specific varietals when planting the vineyards: eastern exposure for Riesling, southern and western exposures across flat stretches for the Cabernet Sauvignon and the coolest north-facing slopes for the Chardonnay. The estate is a 200 acre ranch, partly planted as vineyard over a century ago. California black bears and other wildlife once thrived here as did 120-year-old Picholine olive trees which frame a path and view down to the floor of the Napa Valley. This is an incredible hillside property that is an absolute gem to visit. Wines are made in a balanced style, with good ripeness but also excellent freshness.
I recently had the chance to review the Chardonnays from this site as a special vertical tasting. I’ve really enjoyed these releases but I was curious how they aged. The way that the wines are made with serious texture, weight and bright acidly, make Chardonnay from this site particularly age-worthy.
Right now definitely peaking, the 2016 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay (OB, 93) is soft and generous, slowly getting into nutty and earthy tones. Just as good was the incredible 2018 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is even richer and more viscous, as this beauty will go for another eight plus years. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://www.smithmadrone.com Here are my reviews of the beautiful Chardonnays by Smith-Madrone.
2016 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay- It is such a pleasure revisiting this warm vintage beauty, the 2016 Chardonnay by Smith-Madrone. Vines for this wine are set on Aiken Stoney Clay loam, part of the Aiken, Kidd, Forward complex of soils which are volcanic-based and well-drained. Aged for nine months in 80% new French oak, this offers complex aromas of toasted hazelnuts alongside brioche and hints of bananas foster, giving us plenty of allure. The palate is wonderfully concentrated and very smooth, as this glides throughout the drinking experience offering buttercream, Meyer lemon zest, mango and roasted pineapple notes alongside nutty and flinty undertones. Equally complex and delicious, this is a stunning wine that is right at its peak. Drink 2023-2029- 93
2018 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay- The 2018 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay is a gorgeous offering that looks bright and bold in the glass. This standout Chardonnay saw considerably less new French oak (55%) than the ’16 bottling. It offers very bright acidity with loads of mouth-watering acidity once on the mouth. Layers of peach and lime zest combine with suggestions of vanilla cream, baking spice dusted pear and salted Macadamia nut all enter the fold. Full-bodied, neatly textured and full of tension, this has a long way to go still in the cellar. Drink 2023-2031- 93
2019 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay- The new Fall 2023 release for this winery comes from the 2019 vintage which saw relatively even warmth throughout the growing season. Dry-farmed vines for this wine come from the Spring Mountain District as this is a fantastic new bottling made by winemaker Charles Smith. The nose is really fantastic with toasty oak alongside Marcona almond, nectarine, marzipan and shades of Pazzaz apple. The palate is soft and decadent with a great underlying verve. Layers of buttercream alongside copious minerals, kumquat rind and Brazil nut all combine on the palate. Well-balanced and showing a soft mouthfeel, with a lengthy finish, enjoy this beauty now and over the next eight years to come. Drink 2023-2031- 93
2021 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay- The very pretty and future release 2021 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay is a wine with some great potential. Right now things are in impeccable balance. On the nose this shows off lime blossom notes alongside wet stone, papaya and suggestions of cardamom spice. The right amount of melon and citrus fruits greet you on the palate, with great nerve and a very long finish. Really just an infant now, with its stony accents, this needs a year or two in the bottle to fully unveil itself. Drink 2024-2033- 93