WillaKenzie Estate

I fondly recall my first bottling of WillaKenzie Estate. After tasting the incredible 2002 ‘Terres Basses’ I had to go visit for myself. I was in graduate school in 2005 and I descended upon this beautiful winery. A truly unique and scenic vineyard, WillaKenzie produces Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris with small amounts of Pinot Meunier, Gamay Noir and Chardonnay. A few years back the winery built expansive facility, with sweeping views across the Willamette Valley.

Acquired a few years back by Jackson Family, Erik Kramer serves as winemaker, formerly applying his trade at Domaine Serene. The wines he mades are really good. His wines are focused with beautiful mid-palate ripeness and impressive quality across the board. I really enjoyed his 2021 WillaKenzie ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which is beautifully textured, showing good weight from this warm vintage. Learn more about this great producer at willakenziestate.com and here are my reviews of the new wines by WillaKenzie Estate.

2022 WillaKenzie Estate Rose- Bright and loaded with tension the 2022 Rose by winemaker Erik Kramer offers red rose water with orange rind and pretty guava and red raspberry fruit flavors. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next several years to come. Drink 2024-2028- 90

2021 WillaKenzie Estate ‘Estate Cuvee’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 ‘Estate Cuvee’ opens with bright red fruits with a smooth texture and citrus rind accents on the palate. Soft and refined, with a smooth texture and plenty of salty soil accents, this is drinking marvelously now. Drink 2024-2032- 93

Penner-Ash

One of the famed Oregon wineries, Penner-Ash was founded back in 1998 by Lynn and Ron Penner-Ash. Their first vintage was 2005 and they received remarkable success with vintages to follow. Located in the Northern Willamette Valley’s Yamhill-Carlton sub-AVA the pair built their LIVE (Low Input Viticulture & Enology) Certified sustainable gravity-flow winery surrounded by a 15-acre Estate Vineyard. The winery was sold to Jackson Family in 2016 and the impressive quality in the wines remains today.

I have really enjoyed the last few releases of these wines. Don’t miss out on the 2022 Penner-Ash ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay (OB,93) which has great depth and weight, without coming off heavy. I think this one will age gracefully. Learn more about this great story at https://www.pennerash.com and here are my reviews of the new Penner-Ash wines.

2022 Penner-Ash ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay- The outstanding 2022 Penner-Ash ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay is located with rich pear, peach and stony minerals on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, with a gorgeous texture, this is a marvelous bottling that will drink well over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2024-2032- 93

2021 Penner-Ash ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 Penner-Ash ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir is a beautiful warm vintage wine that displays good flavor density and finesse. Layers of rich plum and spice cake combine with red currants and tobacco leaf on the palate. Rich and viscous, enjoy now and over the next ten years to come. This is really serious for an entry-level Pinot. Drink 2024-2034- 93

2021 Penner-Ash ‘Zena Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir-The 2021 Penner-Ash ‘Zena Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir offers loads of stony minerals on the nose alongside rich red fruits, menthol and shades of white pepper. The palate is mineral-laden with loads of freshness and a seamless sense of mouthfeel. Finishing long with rich red fruits, baking spices and salty soils, this is a generous, complex bottling that will cellar well over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2039- 94

Acumen

A story made full-circle, entrepreneur Eric Yuan has his Napa journey complete. Guided by legendary winemaker Phillip Titus and renowned Viticulturist Garrett Buckland, his brand  Acumen Wines has established an estate that features 116 organically certified acres of vines, spread across two vineyards on Napa Valley’s Atlas Peak. The Acumen team makes a small portfolio of estate-grown wines, with a focus on mountain-grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc as well as Sauvignon Blanc.

Winemaker Phillip Tutus describes this region as “remote and extremely difficult to plant.” Acumen acquired its first vineyard on Atlas Peak in 2012. Originally planted in 1992, and featuring 32 acres of vines with a northeast exposure, the Attelas Vineyard was the ‘home vineyard’ of Dr. Jan Krupp, predating his famed Stagecoach Vineyard by three years. In 2014, Acumen expanded its estate program with the acquisition of the Edcora Vineyard, which features 84 acres of vines 350 feet higher up on Atlas Peak.

I adored both of the new release wines by Acumen, both coming from the outstanding 2021 vintage. The 2021 Acumen Wines ‘PEAK’ Cabernet Franc (OB, 95) which is rich and viscous with serious tension and herbal accents.  I absolutely love these new wines and learn more at https://www.acumenwine.com. Here are my reviews of the new Acumen Wines.

2021 Acumen ‘Mountainside’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘Mountainside’ comes mostly from their estate ‘Attelas Vineyard’ which is set at 1300 feet. Inky in the glass, this unveils loads of black currants and blackberry fruit flavors with stony minerals and tar accents on the palate. Refined and generous, with good tension and refined tannins, enjoy now and over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2039- 93

2021 Acumen ‘PEAK’ Cabernet Franc- The 2021 ‘PEAK’ Cabernet Franc is a gorgeous bottling made from famed winemaker Phillip Titus that has smaller parts Cabernet Sauvignon (14%) and Merlot (10%) blended in. This is a stunning wine with plenty of herbal tones on the palate. Rich cassis, red bell pepper, mocha and dark chocolate shavings all fill the palate alongside refined tannins and fantastic weight and tension. This offers some really good value. Drink 2024-2042- 95

Tablas Creek 'Espirit de Tablas' Vertical Tasting

It was 2004 and I was in graduate school in San Diego. I had bought tickets to a wine event and was most excited to taste the wines of Tablas Creek which were gaining international acclaim for their wine quality, blending and attention to detail. If I could go back in time I would never anticipate sitting with Tablas Creek CEO Jason Haas and visiting every four vintages of their ‘Espirit’ back to their first vintage produced in 2000. Tablas Creek was founded all the way back in 1989 as a partnership between the famed Perrin family of Chateau de Beaucastel and the Haas family who founded Vineyard Brands. Originally named ‘Esprit de Beaucastel’ for their partnership with Chateau de Beaucastel, the name was switched more than a decade ago to ‘Espirit de Tablas’ reflecting that this is a tour de force, stand alone wine from Paso Robles. The ‘Espirit’ has become one of the quintessential California Rhone-inspired wines — and wine that consistently over-delivers for the price and deftly captures the art of blending almost unlike any other red wine in its state.

Haas and I were both amazed with how the oldest wine of the tasting held, the 2000 ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ (OB, 93). At twenty-four years of age, this still had good freshness with a smooth mouthfeel and was loaded with tertiary notes with light red fruits. Another wonderful surprise was the 2004 ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ (OB, 96) which was made in a more extracted and generous style, with more new wood, but the wine was holding marvelously. Haas and I both had little doubt that the finest wine of the tasting was the absolutely thrilling 2008 ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ (OB, 98) which was seamless, dense and finesse-driven, as you could see each varietal working in clockwork precision. Despite it being early in the morning I savored several sips of this unforgettable aged California Rhone. This was quite simply an unforgettable tasting that reminds me of the incredible stability of these wines. Learn more about the famed wines of Tablas Creek at https://tablascreek.com/ and here are my reviews from an incredible vertical tasting of ‘Espirit de Tablas’ by Tablas Creek.

2020 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine- The heady and rich 2020 ‘Espirit de Tablas’ is mainly Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah with smaller parts Counoise, Vaccarese and Cinsault. This is already neatly evolved with a smooth texture displaying a dizzying core of dark fruits with tobacco leaf, stony minerals and wild herbs. While enticing now, this will surely live on for another fifteen years. If savoring now be sure to give this about an hour in the decanter. Drink 2024-2039- 95

2016 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine- The outstanding 2016 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine is similarly comprised to the 2020, made with slightly more Syrah. Right away this is very alluring in the glass, offering polished red florals with smoky character alongside dried herbs, Mandarin orange zest and dark currants. The palate is very fresh and refined with a smooth texture. The weight of the wine and chalky mineral notes are really shining. The star of the show seems to be Grenache here with its very pretty character and sweet red fruits. Gorgeous and generous now, this has another fifteen years to go. Drink 2024-2039- 96

2012 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine- The 2012 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine is nicely evolved, offering tertiary notes already with wild mushroom and bright red fruits alongside wet stone and first floor with red flowers. Beautiful and complex with a gorgeous purity of red fruit character, with smoked meats and hints of black truffle this is marvelous to consume now. Enjoy this savory beauty over the next five plus years. Drink 2024-2030- 95

2008 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ Red Wine- The 2008 ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ shows a darker core than the ‘12 and has a slightly larger portion of Syrah blended in. This is a dizzying, highly complex bottling that will sure to satisfy any lover of California Rhones. The balance and combination of red fruit, damp earth, pine needles and chalky souls in simply marvelous. The smoky and savory notes become more evident with more air, with light citrus accents. You can see each varietal working in clockwork precision here with its core a blend of 38% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache, and 26% Syrah. The weight and poise suggests this still has a very long way to go. A total stunner, enjoy over the next ten years. Drink 2024-2034- 98

2004 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ Red Wine- This 2004 ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ has a very high percentage of Mourvèdre blended in as Grenache vines were still very young at Tablas Creek. This year was the third year in a drought cycle but this was a moderately warm year. The balance and poise is beautiful here with good richness and flavor density, showing a core of rich black plum, tangerine zest and ripe boysenberry fruit flavors. This is tannic and muscular 20 year wine is absolutely rocking right now, as the new wood has allowed this to really evolve gracefully. Drink 2024-2032- 96

2000 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ Red Wine- Shockingly good at near 25 years, and still very bright, the 2000 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ combines 35% Mourvèdre and 26% Syrah with the remainder Grenache and Counoise.  It has bright tension remaining with a very pretty core of wild strawberry and guava fruit flavors alongside stony minerals and wild herbs. Consume now. Drink 2024-2028- 93

Hill of Tara

One of the outrageously good producers from Sonoma, Hill of Tara was founded by TOR general manager Danny Fay. For years Fay recognized the potential for growing world-class grapes on Moon Mountain, an AVA. This is an incredibly scenic area that is set at 2,000 feet, towering above the Sonoma Valley. The highest vineyards in the Moon Mountain District American Viticultural Area (AVA) enable clear-day views of San Francisco from 50 miles away, with skyscrapers gleaming in the southern distance. Soil types here are mainly rocky and of volcanic origin, on slopes and ridge tops of the Mayacamas Mountains.

Hill of Tara winery is named after an ancient ceremonial and burial site in Ireland. The hill is known as the inauguration place of the high kings of Ireland and it also appears in Irish mythology. The historic ground has many monuments and earthworks that date all the way back to the Neolithic and Iron Age. Danny Fay honored his Irish lineage by creating this winery that sources from a host of sites on Moon Mountain.

Winemaker Alex Kanzler has worked harvests in Central Otago, New Zealand, Dundee Hills, Oregon and Russian River Valley, CA. He has been mentored by legendary winemakers like Michael Browne, Shane Finley, and Russell Bevan. The wines are absolutely incredible across the board. I am enamored by the 2019 Hill of Tara ‘Chapter II-Ode to Tormey’ Cabernet Franc (OB, 98) which is up there with the finest Cabernet Franc from Sonoma that I have tasted. Generous, broad shouldered, very elegant, displaying a pillowy texture, this will easily be a 20 year wine. Learn more about these incredible wines at https://www.hilloftarawines.com/ and here are my reviews of the new Hill of Tara wines.

2018 Hill of Tara ‘Mountain Cuvee’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Mountain Cuvee’ has a touch more Cabernet Sauvignon (75%) than the 2019 edition. It is marvelous and soft on the mouth, with a silky texture. Layers of boysenberry preserves, mocha and scorched earth all combine with violets on the palate. Finishing long with beautiful length and underlying finesse, this is already beautifully evolved stuff that will live on for another fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2019 Hill of Tara ‘Mountain Cuvee’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Mountain Cuvee’ is composed of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Cabernet Franc. Black currants, tar and black licorice mark the nose with beautiful dark floral notes. The palate is soft, round and concentrated, with chewy tannins that frame a generous core of red and dark fruits alongside chocolate and tobacco leaf notes. Fabulous now, enjoy this beauty over the next fifteen years. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2018 Hill of Tara ‘Chapter 1-Mound of Hostages’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The wow-factor 2018 ‘Chapter 1-Mound of Hostages’ is named after the oldest visible monument on the Hill of Tara. Coming from the Moonridge Vineyard, this Cabernet Sauvignon was harvested in mid-October. The nose is utterly sensational with violet rose petals, black currants, potpourri, espresso grounds and freshly tilled loamy soils. Pillowy and soft, this effortlessly glides throughout the drinking experience. A massive wall of black and blue fruits greets you, alongside graphite, chocolate fudge and damp soil accents on the palate. Seriously good now, this will surely live on for another twenty plus years to come. But why wait? Drink 2024-2044- 98

2019 Hill of Tara ‘Chapter 1-Mound of Hostages’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Picked on a near-identical date to the 2018 bottling, the 2019 Hill of Tara ‘Chapter 1-Mound of Hostages’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an utterly stunning bottling from this outstanding vintage. This is ultra-refined across the mid-palate, with plenty of opulence, weight and underlying finesse. Layers of dark rose petal and espresso grounds combine with loamy soil, and creme de violette on the palate. Finishing very long with dense dark fruits and copious minerals, be sure to give this an hour in the decanter if savoring now. Drink 2024-2045- 98

2018 Hill of Tara ‘Chapter II-Ode to Tormey’ Cabernet Franc- The 2018 ‘Chapter II-Ode to Tormey’ Cabernet Franc is a nod to the last private landholder of the Hill of Tara and he is depicted on this label riding a white horse. The nose is downright electric with bright red florals that march on with menthol, silty soils, creme de cassis and Arabica bean notes. The palate is ultra-refined with fantastic flavor density. Silky smooth on the mouth, with fantastic herbal undertones, there isn’t a wine quite like this in Sonoma. Stunning. Give this several hours in the decanter if enjoying now, as this beauty really built momentum following a three hour decant. Drink 2024-2045- 98

2019 Hill of Tara ‘Chapter II-Ode to Tormey’ Cabernet Franc- The 2019 Hill of Tara ‘Chapter II-Ode to Tormey’ Cabernet Franc is a world-class bottling by winemaker Alex Kanzler that needs a lot of air before enjoying. Wonderfully herbal on the nose this revels in red bell pepper, alongside thyme, blackberry pie and suggestions of dark chocolate shavings. The palate is silky and refined with a seamless texture and fabulous level of freshness. A bit closed now, this can really use another year of bottle age — but it will be exceedingly hard to be patient because it is so good following three hours in the decanter. Drink 2025-2045- 98

Inniskillin

One of the prized Canadian wineries, Inniskillin has clearly played a pioneering role in establishing the Canadian wine industry. On July 31, 1975, its founders made history when they were given the first winery license in Canada since Prohibition. Inniskillin came into prominence on the global stage with its win at the 1991 Vinexpo, in Bordeaux, France, when the Vidal Icewine was awarded the highest Grand Prix d'Honneur, changing the way the world sees Canadian wine. Instrumental in developing Canada's VQA system this house is located amongst lush vineyards adjacent to the Niagara River. It is truly one of the unique visiting experiences in the world, with beautiful views of the Niagara Escarpment.

Today Inniskillin makes a wide range of wines including some world-class dessert wines. I was massively impressed with both new release Icewines that I tasted. The 2021 Inniskillin Riesling Icewine (OB, 95) is big and burly with a whopping 380G/L. Learn more at https://www.inniskillin.com/

2021 Inniskillin Riesling Icewine- This beautiful 2021 Icewine has a whopping 380G/L residual sugar. Papaya and roasted pineapple alongside juicy peach and hints of bananas foster on the palate. The tension of the wine as well as weight really drives things forward. Beautiful now, this will live on for another twenty plus years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2022 Inniskillin Cabernet Franc Icewine- Rich, heady and very dense, the 2022 Inniskillin Cabernet Franc Icewine shows off flavors of cherries jubilee, toffee, butterscotch and hints of red raspberry cordial on the palate. Its full-bodied and decadent stuff that is not for the weary. Drink 2024-2040- 95

Sleight of Hand 'The Psychedelic' Syrah Vertical Tasting

Sitting across from Sleight of Hand winemaker and partner, Trey Busch, we both relished in the moment. “I had never done a vertical going back like this” said Busch who was eager to sink his teeth into these highly complex wines from the Walla Walla Rocks District. One of the iconic wines of the Pacific Northwest, the Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah is an incredible wine that I have loved for more than a decade now. The wine comes from the Stoney Vine Vineyard in the Rocks District, as this site is set on ancient cobblestones. Immediately, Trey and his team wanted to make a wine with minimal intervention from this stony site.

“We have never wanted to use a lot of new wood on the wines. There is no reason to mask the Rocks character and by not using a lot of new oak we can really see the nuances of the wines. Tasting this wine compared to the Funkadelic which is bigger, this wine is made more in a pretty style.” Grapes at this vineyard are picked “earlier and we are more comfortable at 23 Brix but not at 25 Brix which was my style back in the early 2000s.”

In terms of using stem inclusion Busch noted “I had been making Syrah but had never worked with the Rocks before. Rich Funk came to us in 2009 and asked if we would be interested in making Rocks District Syrah and I jumped at the chance. For me when I was thinking of the wines that people admired, it would be ‘What would Christophe [Baron] do?’ And knowing that he’s French, I just assumed he was using stems in his ferments. I’m also a huge fan of the wines from Allemand in Cornas, and those wines see a ton of whole cluster as well.  So we experimented with that first vintage in 2009 and loved what we tasted. When we started making the Psychedelic in 2013, we had a few years of making rocks wines under our belts, and became more and more comfortable with additional stem inclusion. Today we’re around 60-70% whole cluster on the Psychedelic. It increases the structure and mouthfeel on these high pH wines, especially in warmer vintages like 2013-2015, and 2021.”

Tasting through the wines there were several clear highlights. First was the initial wine made from the 2013 vintage — a wine that had tremendous tension despite the heat of the vintage. The 2014 ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah (OB, 95) is a fabulous effort that is very savory and complex. No reason to cellar this beauty. I was enamored by the bigger and more heady 2016 ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah (OB, 96) which is highly complex stuff that is really peaking right now. Equally good was the world-class 2018 ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah (OB, 96) which is a deep and concentrated bottling that will surely live on for another decade. Busch and I concluded our tasting with the stunning 2021 (OB, 96) which is beautifully youthful and vibrant — one with so much potential. This was truly a tasting to remember. Learn more about these incredible wines at https://www.sofhcellars.com/ and here are my reviews of the 2013-2021 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah.

2013 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- The 2013 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah is a 250 case production wine that was 50% whole cluster fermented and saw only 10% new French oak for 11 months before bottling. The palate is very seamless and nicely structured despite the heat of the vintage. The finesse and Umami character really shines in this wine that offers bacon fat, green olives, and white pepper alongside pretty red and dark fruits. Drink 2024-2039- 95

2014 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- Slightly more wine was made in the 2014 vintage (360 cases), as this was stored in 16% new French oak and also saw 50% whole cluster fermentation. Mandarin orange zest alongside green peppercorns, smoked pork shoulder and shades of black rose petals all mark the nose. The palate is deep, voluptuous and very concentrated, with a seamless sense of mouthfeel and texture. This is really in its sweet spot. Drink 2024-2032- 96

2015 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- Coming from this record hot vintage, the 2015 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah is already nicely evolved now at the nine year mark. Hoisin sauce and savory notes mark the nose alongside smoldering stones. The wine is still very fresh. This lacks some of the complexity of the first two wines but is drinking very well now. Drink 2024-2029- 93

2016 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- The heady and rich 2016 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah is a head-turning Syrah that was stored in 25% new French oak before bottling. The nose is absolutely outstanding with beautiful Umami character alongside white pepper dusted bacon, bulls blood, Nori, green peppercorns and suggestions of wild blackberry. The palate is very fresh and refined with a seamless texture, showing glorious length. Rich and viscous with loads of mouth-watering acidity, this is right in its sweet spot. Drink 2024-2032- 96

2017 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- Only 70 cases were made of this gorgeous 2017 Syrah that saw 50% whole cluster fermentation. Oyster sauce, and black truffle shavings mark the nose alongside boysenberry notes and black peppercorns. The palate is soft and refined with bright acidity and loads of exotic spice with enoki mushroom notes. A touch leaner and more linear than the 2016, don’t be afraid to pop the cork on this beauty. Drink 2024-2029- 94

2018 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- From this downright epic vintage, the 2018 2016 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah. 600 cases made of this beautiful wine stored in 23% new French oak prior to bottling. Umami, beef drippings, roasted figs, and smoked brisket notes mark the nose alongside a light dusting of white pepper. The palate is loaded with savory notes, alongside sweet pipe tobacco, boysenberry, black tea and a seamless texture. Showing a fantastic combination of bright acidity, weight and length, this is a total heavyhitter of a wine that is marvelous to enjoy now. Drink 2024-2032- 96

2019 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- The cold vintage 2019 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah is a gorgeous effort that is showing marvelously now at the five year mark. The wine was picked over an entire month. Stored in 33% new French oak, once on the nose this takes on pink peppercorns and red florals combine with red currants and shades of soy sauce. The palate is soft and approachable with beautiful poise, showing great non-fruit character with charcuterie, peppered bacon and green olive tapenade. This is showing marvelous now. Drink 2024-2030- 95

2020 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- The 2020 ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah is a really great wine from a tough vintage. 500 cases were made of this stony and savory wine that was 15% new French oak before bottling. Smoky and savory with a smooth mouthfeel, this is drinking marvelously right now. Black olive notes with creosote, black licorice and peppered bacon all fill the mouth with enjoyment. Drink 2024-2028- 93

2021 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- A follow up to the really good 2020 edition, the 2021 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah was sourced from the famed Stoney Vine Vineyard in the Walla Walla Rocks District. For my palate this is up there with the 2018 as the finest edition ever made of this wine. Soft, sultry and seamless on the mouth, this greets you with a literal cornucopia of flavors, while maintaining bright underlying finesse. Black olive tapenade, wet gravel, mortadella, black raspberry, black truffle shavings and bulls blood flavors all marvelously combine with blood orange zest accents. This is simply a marvelous, warm vintage wine that is already expressing itself in all its splendor. Drink 2024-2032- 96

2021 Sleight of Hand ‘The Illusionist Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘The Illusionist’ is a refined blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot that was sourced from estate blocks at the Blue Mountain, Red Mountain, and Phinny Hill Vineyards. Stored for 20 months in 60% new French oak, this delivers pure drinking pleasure with its core of cassis and black cherry fruit flavors alongside mocha, tar, pipe tobacco and black licorice flavors. Refined and elegant with its sleek mouthfeel, and great sense of length, enjoy now and over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2038- 94

2021 Sleight of Hand ‘The Archimage Reserve’ Red Wine- The Right Bank-inspired 2021 Sleight of Hand ‘The Archimage Reserve’ Red Wine is a silky blend of 54% Cabernet Franc with the reminder Merlot mostly sourced from the Biurnal Block at the Blue Mountain Vineyard. This is very seamless once on the mouth, with a great sense of texture, weight and bright underlying acidity. Salty accents combine with pure red fruits, menthol, and red bell pepper flavors on the palate. Dense and heady in its youth, give this an hour in the decanter if savoring now. Drink 2024-2040- 94

Doubleback

Following yesterday’s Super Bowl of epic proportions, we bring you a famed range of wines from a former all-pro quarterback. Doubleback was founded by NFL legend, Drew Bledsoe and his wife, Maura. The story completes itself as Drew circled back following his brilliant NFL career. Originally from Walla Walla, he was a star at Walla Walla High School before his illustrious tenure at Washington State University. For many years Drew had visions of starting his own winery for many years and going back to Walla Walla was the perfect choice for him. During his years in the NFL he continued to expand his palate, trying various wines of the world. But there was something special about wines from his home state, as he grew to love the balance of the wines of this region that weren’t old world but also weren’t Napa. It was back in 2007 that Drew returned to Walla Walla to plant his estate vineyard, McQueen on the southern end of the Walla Walla Valley AVA.

It has now been more than fifteen years that Doubleback was born and in 2008 Drew began focusing on using top estate fruit to make incredible Cabernet Sauvignon from the Walla Walla Valley. He needed a top class winemaker and connected with childhood friend and superstar winemaker, Chris Figgins, of Leonetti Cellar, who served as consulting winemaker until Josh McDaniels assumed the role in 2015. Josh is one of the finest talents in the state. The wines that he has made are consistently great, year after year and he has a fantastic winemaking team behind him.

I think for my palate the finest Doubleback Cab that has been yet produced, the 2021 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 97) is a simply marvelous effort that is already drinking beautifully now. I also am enamored by the 2021 Doubleback ‘Reserve’ Red Wine (OB, 99) which is massive and intense, with incredible aging potential.  Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.doubleback.com/ and here are my reviews of the gorgeous new 2024 spring release wines by Doubleback.

2021 Bledsoe Family Winery ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The really good 2021 Bledsoe Family Winery ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes up really inky in the glass. This is concentrated and beautifully textured wine that is standing tall at the entry level. Dark currants, Turkish coffee grounds, tar and shades of garrigue all beautifully meld together on the palate. Full-bodied and shining brightly even at the two year mark, enjoy this beautiful wine for another ten to twelve years — or potentially more. Drink 2024-2035- 93

2022 Doubleback Merlot- Unlike the 2019 bottling, this is not a 100% varietal Doubleback Merlot as this blends in 8% Cabernet Franc. Sourced from the McQueen and Schafer Vineyards, the wine was stored in 60% new French oak for sixteen months before bottling. Right away this offers alluring Morello cherry and Asian spices alongside roasted figs and espresso ground flavors. The palate is soft and refined with a smooth texture and fantastic sense of weight. Mouth-watering acidity greets you, alongside rich dark fruits, with refined tannins and a silky mouthfeel. Finishing long with chocolate, sage and dense dark fruits, this is remarkably evolved considering its youth.  Try to give this an hour of air prior to consuming and enjoy over the next fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2024-2038- 95

2019 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon- A total stunner, the 2021 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon is a ultra-refined blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon with 10% Malbec and smaller portions Merlot and Petit Verdot that was sourced from the McQueen, LaFore, and Schafer vineyards. This was stored in a combination of 74% new French. Oak, Italian concrete and neutral oak barrels before bottling in August 2023. Remarkably perfumed once poured, this offers espresso grounds, tar and sagebrush notes on the nose with suggestions of graphite and freshly tilled loamy soils. The palate is soft and refined with fantastic power and flavor density. Firm tannins frame a gorgeous core of black fruits alongside Turkish coffee, anise and creme de cassis, this is one of the finest editions of this wine ever produced. If savoring in its full-throttle youth, give this an hour or two in the decanter to fully unwind. This total heavyhitter of a wine will easily live on for another twenty years. Drink 2024-2045- 98

2021 Doubleback ‘Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Reserve’ Red Wine is a monumental effort from this great vintage for red wines in Washington State. Aged in all new French oak, this has a large portion of Merlot (14%) blended in, as well as 7% Malbec. Inky in the glass, this is heady and opulent on the mouth, loaded with creme de violette and creosote notes alongside pencil lead, black currant jelly and suggestions of Black Forest cake. Wait for the exceedingly long finish with black and blue fruits and stony minerals. Dazzling in its underlying finesse and flavor density, this flirts with perfection and is truly one of a kind stuff that will age for at least another twenty years to come. Drink 2025-2050- 99

Delas

One of the great houses in the Northern Rhone, Delas was founded back in 1835. Although the Delas family has been making wine since 1835 in the Rhône Valley, it was not until 1924 that they took the current name of the estate. In 1993, the Rouzaud family, owners of Louis Roederer, acquired both Delas Frères and Champagne Deutz. Since 1996, the Rouzaud family has made important investments in the Saint-Jean-de-Muzols production site near Tournon-sur-Rhône. They have revamped their production facility and cellars to make modernizations. Delas now makes a huge range of wines all the way from the Ventoux in southern France, as well as Chateauneuf du Pape but they are best known for their wines from Cote Rotie and Hermitage.

I was massively impressed with their red and white wine releases across the board. Look to their 2017 Delas ‘Chante-Pedrix’ Cornas (OB, 94) which is rich, and dense, loaded with heady dark fruits and non-fruit nuance. Learn more about these incredible wines at https://www.delas.com/en/ and here are my reviews of the exceptional new Delas wines.

2021 Delas ‘Clos Boucher’ Condrieu- Soft and round on the mouth, the 2021 Delas ’Clos Boucher’ Condrieu offers ripe peaches and white grapefruit flavors alongside serious tension and a smooth mouthfeel on the palate. Finishing long with honeysuckle water, passion fruit and shades of lychee, this generous, well-structured bottling is already drinking marvelously Drink 2024-2032- 93

2020 Delas ‘Francois De Tournon’ Saint-Joseph- The 2020 Delas Saint-Joseph "Francois de Tournon" is a blend of grapes from the terroirs of Vion, Saint-Jean de Muzols, Mauves and Tournon. Iron, bulls blood and iodine flavors combine with tart black raspberry and black cherry notes on the palate, with pencil lead undercurrents. Neatly textured, enjoy now and over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2039- 93

2020 Delas ‘Chante-Perdrix’ Cornas- The 2020 Delas ‘Chante-Perdrix’ Cornas is inky in the glass, with fantastic concentration and underlying finesse. A bit tight to get going, this delivers copious dark fruit flavors alongside violets, graphite, tar and creme de cassis notes with dark chocolate shavings on the palate. Fresh and vibrant, this is going to age gracefully. Drink 2024-2039- 94

2020 Delas ‘La Landonne’ Cote-Rotie- Coming from this hallowed site, the 2020 Delas ‘La Landonne’ Cote-Rotie was stored in used French oak for 14 months before bottling. The nose is a literal cornocpiia of aromatics from white pepper dusted bacon to beautiful black rose petals, anise, exotic spices and suggestions of Earl Grey tea alongside dense dark fruits. The palate is plush and soft with serious verve and glorious length. This will easily go for another twenty years to come. Give this total stunner an hour in the decanter if consuming now. Drink 2024-2044- 96

2020 Delas ‘Les Bessards’ Hermitage- The stunning 2020 Delas ‘Les Bessards’ Hermitage is a collection of the oldest sites from the ‘Les Bessards’ as this is limited to a maximum of six thousand bottles each year. This beauty shows off a voluptuous mouthfeel with serious tension and minerality. Layers of boysenberry and coffee grounds ingle well with iodine, wet granite and shades of creme de violette on the palate. Highly enjoyable in its heady youth, give this some time in the decanter if consuming young. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2020 Delas ‘Les Grandes Vignes’ Hermitage- This incredible 2020 Hermitage comes from a plot of land at the top of the Hermitage hillside, set at more than 300 meters. Once on the nose this takes on layers of dark currants and red peppercorns alongside wet stone and suggestions of Asian spices. The palate is soft and refined as soft tannins frame a beautiful core of black fruit flavors alongside black licorice, white pepper and salty minerals. Enjoy this head-turning wine now and over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 95

Sojourn Cellars

One of the great stops in Sonoma, Sojourn Cellars has been creating outstanding Pinot Noir and Chardonnay now for more than two decades. It all dates back to 2001 when two tennis friends–Craig Haserot and Erich Bradley–who shared a passion for two things: great wine and tennis. With Erich’s experience as an Assistant Winemaker at Arrowood Winery, the two developed a plan to produce small bottlings of Cabernet Sauvignon from outstanding vineyard sources. They began with a hundred cases of Cabernet Sauvignon that they sold to our friends and family. Today they produce 21 different wines and have customers worldwide. Last spring I had a chance to taste some older bottlings and was particularly impressed with how well their Chardonnay cellars. Their 2012 Chards were incredible!

The new wines I tasted come from the 2022 vintage which was somewhat tricky to navigate due to intense heat at harvest. These were beautiful wines with serious stuffing and texture. Don’t miss out on the world-class 2022 Sojourn ‘Gap’s Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 96) which is big and burly with serious salty soil character from this amazing site that neighbors the Pacific Ocean. Learn more about these great wines at sojourn cellars.com and here are my reviews of the beautiful new release wines by Sojourn Cellars.

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay- The 2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay comes from several sites in this windswept AVA that neighbors the Pacific Ocean. On the nose this takes on peach and saline drenched pear notes alongside brioche and salted Macadamia nut. The palate is plush and soft with a refined texture, and great sense of elegance. Finishing exceedingly long with vanilla cream and salted melon fruits, this is an outstanding 2022 bottling that will provide drinking enjoyment over the next eight plus years to come. Drink 2024-2032- 94

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The Sangiacomo Vineyard is located in the Sonoma Coast AVA. The palate is soft and rich with great flavor density and weight. Rich Meyer lemon cream combines with toasted hazelnut, buttered French bread and shades of Pink Lady apple on the palate. Rich and polished, this is delicious wine that is already drinking beautifully. Drink 2024-2032- 94

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Petaluma Gap’ Pinot Noir- The 2022 ‘Petaluma Gap’ Pinot Noir comes from a range of sites in this new AVA. Cranberry and cola notes combine on the nose with freshly tilled damp soils. The palate is rich and beautifully ytrxturtd with good weight and underlying verve. A fantastic core of red fruits greet you on the palate, alongside citrus zest, tobacco leaf and shades of wet stone. Bright and fresh, enjoy this lively new Pinot Noir bottling no and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2024-2034- 94

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Nightwing Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Owned by MacRostie, the Nightwing Vineyard is set on a hillside at 1200 feet. This wine is very juicy, round and downright delicious. Cola and cran-orange flavors collide with underbrush and freshly tilled salty soils on the palate. Complex and delicious, this is going to be really popular with any lover of top notch Sonoma Pinot Noir. Great now, enjoy over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2024-2037- 95

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir- This 2022 Pinot Noir comes form the Sonoma Coast AVA. On the nose this exudes class with menthol and red rose petals alongside cran-ornage notes. The palate is soft and rich with a smooth texture. Bright red fruits parade with salty soils and Mandarin orange rind flavors on the palate. Drink 2024-2034- 93

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Rodgers Creek Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2022 ‘Rodgers Creek Vineyard’ sits high on a ridge in the Sonoma Coast AVA. This is rich and viscous Pinot Noir with serious focus and underlying tension. Rich cranberry and wild blackberry fruit flavors mingle well with freshly tilled soils and suggestions of bay leaf on the palate. Finishing long this dense and chewy bottling is already showing beautifully. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Gap’s Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- For years I have admired wines for the famed ‘Gap’s Crown Vineyard’ — a site that straddles the Pacific Ocean. This 2022 edition is arguably the finest Pinot Noir wine that I have tasted from Sojourn. On the nose this shows off salty red fruits alongside sea salt dusted blood orange zest, tobacco and shades of crushed wet rock. The palate is soft and inviting with a smooth texture and a dense core of salty mineral-laden guava, strawberry and red cherry fruit flavors. Quite simply a joy to drink now, enjoy this savory and salty Pinot Noir over the next fifteen years to come. This one literally screams terroir. Drink 2024-2040- 96

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The Sangiacomo Vineyard is a cool, windswept site located in the Sonoma Coast AVA. This is juicy with its pomegranate seed and guava fruit flavors that mingle well with red cherry, kumquat and stony minerals on the palate. Finishing long with red fruits and copious minerals, this is a beautiful new bottling that will cellar well for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2024-2040- 94

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Wohler Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This outstanding 2022 Pinot Noir comes from the Wohler Vineyard which is centered in the middle of the Russian River Valley and set on Goldridge soils. The wine has outstanding finesse with a very juicy core of red fruits that parade with damp soils, cigar box, and shades of wet rock on the palate. Inviting now, this will surely live on for another fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2039- 95

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Walala Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This magical new 2022 Pinot Noir bottling comes from this site neighboring the Pacific Ocean. It is very salty and intense with dark raspberry and black cherry flavors that combine with salty soils, wet stone and suggestions of Satsuma orange zest on the palate. Full-bodied, with a great mineral backbone, this is both dense and well-structured wine that will easily live on for another ten plus years. Drink 2024-2039- 95

2021 Sojourn Cellars ‘Stagecoach Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- For years I have admired Cabernets from this high elevation site that overlooks the Napa Valley. The wine is brooding and deep, showing off beautiful black florals in the glass, alongside freshly tilled rocky soils, cigar box, black currants and shades of espresso grounds. The palate is soft and seamless, with serious verve and a pillowy texture. The amalgamation of freshness and weight works beautifully here, as this is already drinking marvelously in its heady youth. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2021 Sojourn Cellars ‘Atlas Peak’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2021 Sojourn Cellars ‘Atlas Peak’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from two sites in this district. It comes off rich and viscous with layers of dark currants, coffee grounds and dark chocolate shavings on the palate, alongside plenty of stony minerals. Finishing long with black fruits and lovely weight, enjoy this outstanding bottling over the next fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2021 Sojourn Cellars ‘Home Ranch Cuvee’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Home Ranch Cuvee’ comes from this southwestern Sonoma County site which was planted by Sojourn founder Craig Haserot in 2002. This is heady and concentrated Sonoma Cabernet with cassis, mocha, tar and shades of violets on the nose. The palate has a smooth mouthfeel, with plenty of tension and finesse alongside the core of black and blue fruits. With more air milk chocolate and espresso ground flavors add to the enjoyment, as this well-structured beauty will cellar well for another twenty years to come — yet is irresistible in its youth. Drink 2024-2040- 94

2021 Sojourn Cellars ‘Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This beautiful wine comes from this Rutherford site that was first planted in 1895 by Mrs. Thomas Rutherford. This 300-acre parcel first purchased by Beaulieu founder Georges de Latour in 1928 and called Beaulieu Vineyard Number 3. Inky in the glass, this offers an opulent texture once on the mouth. Layers of creme de cassis, anise, graphite, creme de violette, tar and allspice dusted black cherry all brilliantly combine on the palate, with loamy soil accents. A joy to drink now in its full-throttle youth, enjoy this brilliant new wine now and over the next twenty plus years to come. Drink 2024-2044- 96

Kiona

One of Washington’s historic vineyards, Kiona has five Red Mountain estates and has been farming for forty years. The Kiona Estate was first planted back in 1975 by John Williams and Jim Holmes. Predominately planted to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this vineyard and this site has helped shape the Red Mountain AVA. This vineyard is also home to the oldest Lemberger planting in the western hemisphere.

The Williams family is now in the third generation of ownership. It was in 2016 that John Williams and Jim Holmes recognized with Lifetime Achievement awards from the Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers for their work pioneering Red Mountain and Yakima Valley. Winemaker Tyler Williams has served at this position since 2020, while his brother, JJ Williams, serves as general manager.  I’ve spoken to JJ several times about his brand vision and have been very impressed with his leadership and knowledge of Washington wine and his region.

I was very impressed with the overall lineup. The 2019 Kiona ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 91) is a wonderfully structured wine with nice texture and herbal tones from this cooler vintage. The best wine I tasted was the fabulous 2021 Kiona ‘Estate Old Block’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 94) which is dense, chewy and sure to satisfy any lover of great Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. Learn more about this historic Washington winery at kionawine.com and here are my reviews of the great new lineup by Kiona.

2021 Kiona ‘Pinot Noir-Lemberger’ Red Wine- This unique wine is very juicy and fruity with a smooth mouthfeel. Loaded with salty red fruits, with orange rind and stony soil accents, enjoy now and over the next several years. Drink 2024-2030- 90

2021 Kiona ‘Estate’ Lemberger- This 2021 Red Mountain Lemberger bottling has 3% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. A smooth mouthful, this shows lighter to medium bodied red fruit flavors with tobacco leaf and tar accents. Drink 2024-2029- 89

2021 Kiona ‘Red Mountain Reserve’ Red Wine- Mostly coming from Ranch at the End of the Road and Heart of the Hill Vineyards, this 2021 ‘Reserve’ is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (66%) with the remainder Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Chocolate, sagebrush and scorched earth notes with cassis all mark the nose. The palate is smooth and refined with a silky texture. Drinking beautifully now, enjoy over the next ten plus years. Drink 2024-2034- 92

2019 Kiona ‘Heart of The Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 ‘Heart of the Hill’ combines 88% Cabernet Sauvignon with small portions Merlot, Petite Sirah and Carmenere. Inky in the glass, this delivers excellent concentration and poise in this cooler vintage. Dense dark fruits parade with chocolate, tar and tobacco leaf flavors. This will go for another fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2038- 93

2019 Kiona ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Made from 86% Cabernet Sauvignon with small parts Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this delivers a soft mouthfeel. Chocolate and sage flavors combine with coffee grounds and scorched earth on the palate. Well-structured, this is a really nice value from this cooler vintage. Drink 2024-2032- 91

2021 Kiona ‘Estate Old Block’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘Estate Old Block’ comes from the original 1975 Cabernet Sauvignon plantings. This comes off very plush and soft with a refined texture and generous sense of mouthfeel. Loaded with sage and thyme flavors alongside medium to full-bodied black cherry and black licorice flavors, this seamless bottling is already showing well at the three year mark. Drink 2024-2036- 94

NV Kiona ‘Fortuna III” Red Wine- A blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenere from the 2019-2022 vintages, this delivers pencil lead and red bell pepper flavors with chocolate, black currants and loganberry preserves. This would be a really intriguing steakhouse glass pour. Drink 2024-2031- 91

Archer Vineyard

One of the great under the radar properties in Oregon, Archer Vineyard was founded back in the 1980s by Don and Grace Archer. The property was purchased by Saj and Pauline Jivanjee many years later in 2005. Saj is a British-educated architect of Indian descent, born and raised in Kenya. Pauline hails from England—where the couple met—and sees the world through the lens of her doctorate in social work. Saj and Pauline live on the Archer Vineyard property. They are fond of calling the Archer tasting room “the living room of wine country”—a comfortable, sun-filled space where windows look out on the Willamette Valley and the Coast Range beyond.  

Archer Vineyard winemaker Jim Sanders has been making wine in the Willamette Valley since 1996, when he first explored the craft while working with Mike Etzel at Beaux Frères. He continues to make beautiful wines at Le Cadeau and Aubichon Cellars. I loved the new wines across the board. The 2019 Archer Vineyard ‘Arch’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) is a gorgeous barrel select wine that has loads of tension and a silky mouthfeel. Learn more at archervineyard.com and here are my reviews of the great wines by Archer Vineyard.

2017 Archer ‘Willamette Valley Select’ Pinot Noir- The really good 2017 Archer ‘Willamette Valley Select’ Pinot Noir- was tried for nine months in French oak before bottling. Guava puree, white peach, red florals and salty soils all mark the nose. The palate is soft and polished with copious minerals and a lengthy finish, with loads of lip-smacking acidity. Drink 2024-2030- 91

2018 Archer Vineyard ‘Willamette Valley Select’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 Archer Vineyard ‘Willamette Valley Select’ Pinot Noir is a slightly richer edition of this wine. Black raspberry and shades of Black Forest cake mark the palate, alongside salty soils and stony minerals. Really delicious in its rich texture, enjoy now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2021 Archer Vineyard ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- Coming from this warm, great vintage, the 2021 Archer Vineyard ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir shows good depth and richness as an entry level bottling. Pomegranate seed flavors mingle with cran-orange flavors on the palate, with salty soil accents. Drink 2024-2030- 91

2018 Archer Vineyard ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 Archer Vineyard ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir offers lighter bodied red fruit flavors that combine with kumquat zest and salty minerals on the palate.  This is lacking a bit depth considering the richness of the vintage. Drink 2024-2030- 90

2019 Archer Vineyard ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- Dried herbs and red currants mark the nose alongside tobacco leaf and strawberry tones in this 2019 Pinot Noir. The palate shows excellent tension and length, with a bright core of ripe and tart red fruits. Neatly textured, this is already drinking well at the five year mark. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2019 Archer Vineyard ‘Arch’ Pinot Noir- Coming from the Chehalem Mountains Vineyard, this 2019 Pinot Noir was stored in 35% new French oak before bottling. Red currant jelly, west stone, cran-cherry and shades of cardamom all mark the nose. The palate is soft and seamless with a generous mouthfeel. Loaded with bright red fruits, with salty nuances, this is drinking marvelously right now. Drink 2024-2034- 93

Gramercy Cellars

One of Walla Walla’s great wineries, today we share the wines of Gramercy Cellars. Originally purely a Rhone house, Gramercy was founded by winemaker and master sommelier, Greg Harrington, MS. Today he and partner Brandon Moss create highly structured Rhone and Bordeaux varietals that evoke a very old-world feel. They make some of the finest Rose wines that you will find in North America that capture the art of blending a GSM style wine. Both Moss and Harrington focus on prime fruit and minimal intervention, showcasing the typicity of the individual varietal. I am always amazed how well they fare in difficult vintages.

This is none more true than the latest wines that came from the 2020 vintage. These are clean wines without smoke impact. I love the 2020 Gramercy ‘Red Willow Vineyard’ Syrah (OB, 93) which comes from old vines and has a very pretty red and dark fruit profile, with loads of herbs and non-fruit character. Even better is one of the best Rhone style wines I have tasted from 2020, their 2020 Gramercy ‘John Lewis Reserve’ Syrah (OB, 95) which really needs an hour of air before consuming. Beautifully textured, this is a stunning example of Washington Syrah.

Learn more about these amazing wines at gramercycellars.com Here are the fantastic new wines by Gramercy Cellars and the superstar winemaking team of Greg Harrington, MS and Brandon Moss.

2019 Gramercy Cellars ‘Lower East The Bowery’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘The Bowery’ combines 67% Syrah with 14% Mourvèdre, 14% Carignan and a splash of Grenache. The wine is named after a rougher side of Manhattan — a former location for my favorite wine bar, Pearl and Ash. This has nice smoky tones on the nose alongside black olives, oyster sauce and shades of blackberry pie. The palate is smooth and medium-bodied with a great sense of texture. The balance here is outstanding. Drink 2024-2031- 92

2020 Gramercy Cellar ‘Lower East’ Syrah- The 2020 ‘Lower East’ Syrah comes from vineyards in the Columbia Valley. Tar and tobacco leaf flavors mingle well with milk chocolate and shades of dark currants on the palate. Enjoy now. Drink 2024-2028- 90

2020 Gramercy Cellars ‘Red Willow Vineyard’ Syrah- This 2020 ‘Red Willow’ comes from this old site that is set on windblown loess soils, with underlying sandstone. Salty soils with ripe red currants, tobacco leaf and shades of milk chocolate fill the nose. The palate is smooth and refined with light tannins that frame a fantastic core of red and dark fruit flavors, with salty and herbal accents. Drink 2024-2031- 93

2020 Gramercy Cellars ‘Forgotten Hills Vineyard’ Syrah- The Forgotten Hills Vineyard is a small, 7.5 acre site that was planted back in 1999 on cobblestone soils at 1000 feet elevation. This comes off clean with black raspberry and black tea flavors alongside loamy soils on the palate. Smooth throughout the drinking experience, enjoy this beautifully evolved wine now and over the next seven years to come. Drink 2024-2031- 93

2019 Gramercy Cellars ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Mourvedre- The Olsen Vineyard is a famed Yakima Valley site that has a sterling reputation for Rhone varietals but also Chardonnay. Translucent in the glass, this offers a silky mouthfeel, and is loaded with rich red fruit flavors with an opulent texture and beautiful sense of balance. Showing no rough edges, this is truly one of the great wines of its kind in the state. Drink 2024-2032- 94

2020 Gramercy Cellars ‘John Lewis Reserve’ Syrah- The 2020 ‘John Lewis Reserve’ Syrah is a barrel selection wine coming from the Les Collines Vineyard which is a high elevation site that falls below the Bluewood Mountains. Still very closed and youthful, this really need an hour in the decanter to get going. Once aroused, this shows incredible flavor and aromatic range, with plenty of bright black fruit flavors, alongside tar, bulls blood, menthol and stony accents. Very mineral-laden and refined, showing loads of fresh herbs, enjoy this rich and savory Syrah now and over the next eight years to come. Drink 2024-2032- 95

2019 Gramercy Cellars ‘Lower East’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 ‘Lower East’ Cabernet Sauvignon offers juicy red currants and red cherry flavors alongside a smooth texture on the palate. Forward and delicious, with chocolate and sagebrush accents, enjoy now and over the next seven years to come. Drink 2024-2031- 91

2020 Gramercy Cellars ‘Gramercy Estates’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Gramercy Estates’ is nearly all Cabernet Sauvignon (95%) with the remainder Merlot. Coming off very clean, this offers a silky texture once on the mouth. Black currants and sweet pipe tobacco with black licorice flavors all meld together on the palate, with salty and flinty accents. Elegant and medium to full-bodied, enjoy now and over the next twelve plus years. Drink 2024-2036- 93

2019 Gramercy Cellars ‘Estate’ Merlot- This cooler vintage Merlot bottling comes from the Gramercy Estate Vineyard, located in the Walla Walla Valley. This wine club only bottling is really fantastic, showing good poise and richness from this slightly cooler vintage. Red bell pepper and rich dark fruits mark the palate alongside chocolate covered espresso bean. Freshly tilled soil accents complete this outstanding new bottling that is already nicely evolved. Drink 2024-2036- 93

2020 Gramercy Cellars ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a barrel select wine coming from several sites throughout the Columbia Valley. This is a world-class wine made in a tough vintage. Showing a deep core in the glass, this delivers a seamless texture producing a weightless effect on the mid-palate. Ripe loganberry preserves alongside wild blackberry pie mingle well with garrigue, wet stone and shades of chocolate pie on the palate. Especially after an hour of air this is absolutely dazzling stuff. Drink 2024-2034- 96

Foxen

One of the all time greats out of Santa Barbara County, Foxen is a family-run winery that produces world class Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah. Set in the rolling hills, if you have never visited Foxen, you are in for a treat. Foxen has two distinct lines of wines – one that focuses on Bordeaux style wines and another that produces Burgundian styles, along with an some gorgeous single vineyard Syrah. Sideways decided to film one of their big scenes here but even after that exposure Foxen remains one of the hidden gems of the valley.

I first visited Foxen back in 2003 and I’ve been so impressed with the consistency of their wines. Don’t miss out on their brilliant new 2020 Foxen ‘Bien Nacido Vineyard Block UU’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which is wonderfully salty and shows a crazy good texture. Even better was the scintillating 2017 Foxen Block 8 Bien Nacido Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) which also shows this marvelous salty soil character in the wine alongside bright red fruits and earthy nuances. Learn more about these outstanding wines at http://www.foxenvineyard.com/ Here are some of the fantastic new release wines from Foxen.

2020 Foxen ‘Bien Nacido Vineyard Block UU’ Chardonnay- This beautiful 2020 Chardonnay was stored for eight months in 29% new French oak puncheons before bottling. This comes off clean with brilliant Japanese pear, diatomaceous earth, salty minerals and lime zest flavors. The terroir imparted is extraordinarily good with the wine’s salty and stony essence. Drink 2024-2032- 94

2020 Foxen ‘Santa Maria Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2020 ‘Santa Maria Valley’ mainly comes from the Bien Nacido Vineyard. Stored for 10 months in neutral oak barrels, this offers a smooth texture upon entry with strawberry and guava fruit flavors alongside orange rind and salty soils on the palate. Drink 2024-2030- 93

2019 Foxen ‘Julia’s Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This Pommard clonal selection Pinot Noir comes from the Julia’s Vineyard which is home to some of Santa Barbara's oldest Pinot Noir vines. This site was first planted between 1970 and 1971 as part of the original Tepusquet Vineyard. This is rich and nicely concentrated Pinot Noir with a smooth mouthfeel and salty/stony accents alongside a brilliant core of red fruit and red rose water flavors. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2020 Foxen ‘Bien Nacido Vineyard- Block 43’ Pinot Noir- The 2020 Foxen ‘Bien Nacido Vineyard- Block 43’ Pinot Noir was stored in only 30% new French oak barrels for 16 months prior to bottling. Soft on the mouth, this revels in its Bing cherry and red raspberry flavors with stony and smoky accents. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2019 Foxen ‘Bien Nacido Vineyard- Block 8’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 Foxen ‘Bien Nacido Vineyard- Block 8’ Pinot Noir utilizes a range of clonal selections, as this was stored for 16 months in 30% new French oak before bottling. Wonderfully salty, this offers bright Yakima cherry flavors alongside black tea, wet stone and shades of tobacco leaf on the palate. Neatly textured, this is drinking marvelously even now. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2020 Foxen ‘John Sebastiano Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This famed site captures Dijon 667, Swan and Pommard Pinot Noir. The wine is neatly textured and concentrated on the palate with wild blackberry and tar notes alongside salty soils and suggestions of juicy peach on the palate. Drink 2024-2032- 93

2019 Foxen ‘Fe Ciega Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Fe Ciega Vineyard’ utilizes clonal selections Mt. Eden, Pommard as well as Dijon 115 and 667. This has a beautiful texture and weight with loads of mouth-watering red fruit flavors alongside kumquat zest and suggestions of salty minerals. Drink 2024-2040- 94

2020 Foxen ‘Williamson-Dore Vineyard’ Syrah- Inky in the glass, the Williason-Dore Vineyard is set in the Los Olives District. Marvelous black olive and black tea aromas combine with bacon fat and shades of black currants on the nose. The palate is plush and rich as this is a sensational effort despite the challenges of this vintage. Drink 2024-2032- 94

2019 Foxen ‘Tinaquaic VIneyard’ Syrah- The beautiful and unique 2019 Foxen ‘Tinaquaic VIneyard’ Syrah was mostly sourced from the Bajita Block of this vineyard which utilizes Syrah Clone 470. Inky in the glass, this reveals beautiful smoky and stony tones on the nose with Hoisin sauce, smoked brisket and wild blackberry puree flavors, with salty accents. This is going to cellar really well. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2019 Foxen ‘Tinaquaic Vineyard- Old Vines Heritage Collection’ Syrah- This wine is sourced from old vine plantings of Syrah that date back to 1989. Stored for 18 months in Hungarian neutral oak puncheons, this opens with iodine, tar, tobacco leaf and espresso ground flavors that mingle well with shades of creme de violette with a dusting of white pepper. This is sensational stuff. Drink 2024-2040- 95

Melville

Today we showcase one of the stars of Santa Barbara wine. I have been amazed by the quality of the wines and the QPR produced by this house for more than two decades. Chad Melville has now been at the winemaking helm for many years. A viticulturist at heart, Melville trained under eminent winemaker Greg Brewer for many years.

Chad has been crafting some absolutely stunning wines and has created his unique winemaking style. I absolutely love the saline-driven terroir that he is able to mold into his wines. He knows this site so well, his family’s 82 acre property that produces marvelous, saline-drenched wines with beautiful texture and poise.

It was back in 1996 when the Melville vineyard was first planted by Chad’s father Ron Melville and his brothers. The vineyard was planted to 14 different clones of Pinot Noir and 4 different clones of Chardonnay, as well as Syrah and Viognier. The new releases by Chad Melville were simply gorgeous across the board, none more so than the 2022 Melville Rose (OB, 91) which has beautiful earthy nuance and bright red fruits. I love the new 2022 Melville ‘Estate’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is such a bargain at this price it is a must purchase by the case. Learn more about this outstanding producer of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah at http://melvillewinery.com Here are the gorgeous new wines by Melville. 

2022 Melville Rose- This 2022 Grenache Rose comes from the Melville estate vineyard. This is a highly complex rose bottling that really needs to be served at a warmer temperature. Guava and red raspberry fruits combine with freshly tilled soils and wild mushroom with salty minerals undercurrents on the palate. The terroir exuded is outstanding. Drink 2024-2030- 92

2022 Melville ‘Estate’ Chardonnay Fresh, lithe and polished on the mouth, the 2022 ‘Estate’ Chardonnay is another killer value made by winemaker and owner Chad Melville. Bananas and poached pear flavors combine with shades of marzipan and copious minerals on the palate. Finishing long with wet stone and rich pastry crust flavors, this is a dazzling effort that is already nicely evolved. Drink 2024-2033-93

2022 Melville ‘Estate Clone 76 Inox’ Chardonnay- The brilliant 2022 Melville ‘Estate Clone 76 Inox’ Chardonnay comes from this famed salty location in the Santa Rita Hills. This is seamless on the mouth, with layers of lime zest and pear alongside white peach and salty accents with shades of wet stone. Delicious to enjoy now, savor this over the next ten years to come. Drink 2024-2024- 94

2022 Melville ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- Juicy and polished, the 2022 Melville ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir is a brilliant value from this killer Santa Rita Hills outpost. On the nose this shows bright Bing cherry and white tea notes alongside salty orange peel. The palate is soft and refined with an elegant texture and bright underlying tension. Rich and layered, enjoy now and over the next ten years to come. Drink 2024-2034- 93

2022 Melville ‘Sandy’s Block’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Sandy’s Block’ comes from a block named after Chad’s beloved Aunt Sandy, this block is situated on the east side of our estate, to the north of the winery. The resultant wine is chalk-filled with salty character and tension, with ripe loganberry and yakima cherry flavors that collide with the salty minerals. Gorgeous in its heady youth, enjoy now and over the next fifteen yeas to come. Drink 2024-2039- 95

2022 Melville ‘Terraces’ Pinot Noir- The 2022 ‘Terraces’ is a thrilling new bottling by Melville. This location is set on Clay-rich loam and calcareous shale with vines aged 25 years of age.The wine offers a marvelous purity of red fruits with juicy guava and pomegranate that mingle well with lush honeydew melon and stony accents. A joy to consume now, savor this beauty over the next fifteen years. Drink 2024-2039- 95

2022 Melville ‘Anna’s Block’ Pinot Noir- The 2022 ‘Anna’s Block’ comes from a southern slope of the vineyard that was planted back in 2001. Translucent in the glass, this 2022 Pinot Noir offers a brilliant core of bright red fruits alongside salty soils, fig and shades of kumquat zest. This is really drinking beautifully now and has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2024-2039- 95

2022 Melville ‘Block M’ Pinot Noir- The 2022 ‘Block M’ is a killer new bottling by Chad Melville. Once on the nose this takes on layers of dense red fruits that collide with wet stone, salted peach and shades of red licorice candy. The palate is beautifully concentrated, with a smoky accent alongside rich and salty red fruits. Polished with its smooth texture, this is drinking beautifully already. Drink 2024-2039- 96

2022 Melville ‘Estate’ Syrah- Unique and novel, the 2022 Melville ‘Estate’ Syrah is a neatly-textured, medium-bodied wine that literally screams terroir. White pepper dusted bacon, Mandarin orange zest, Linzer torte and shades of pomegranate seed all brilliantly combine on the palate. Great to savor now, this has some really good aging potential. Drink 2024-2032- 94

Calera

Today we share a historic California producer that dates back to the 1970s. In the early 1970s Calera founder Josh Jensen was exploring Europe, and decided to work a harvest at famed winery Romanée-Conti. Josh was inspired to make great Pinot Noir in California and 1974, he purchased land located on steep slopes of Mount Harlan, a 3,278-foot peak in the Gavilan Mountains that divide Monterey and San Benito counties. Josh founded Calera in 1975 and p[anted his three estate vineyards: Jensen, Reed and Selleck.

Josh achieved incredible critical acclaim for his Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines. A few years back Calera was sold to the Duckhorn wine group as Josh noted that Calera was his “life work.” The winery itself is located in Hollister, and boasts sweeping views of the Diablo Mountain Range. Head winemaker Mike Waller previously worked as assistant winemaker at storied property Chalone, before coming to Calera. Mike has served as head winemaker for more than a decade now. I loved the new 2022 Calera ‘Central Coast’ Chardonnay (OB, 91) which is an amazing value. Don’t miss on the 2020 Calera ‘Mills Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is deep, stony and concentrated. Learn more about these outstanding new wines at https://www.calerawine.com Here are the great new releases by Calera.

2022 Calera ‘Central Coast’ Chardonnay- Sourced from Edna Valley vineyards, the 2022 ‘Central Coast’ Chardonnay was stored in only 10% new French oak before bottling. Juicy and soft on the mouth, offering poached pear, hazelnuts and vanilla cream flavors, this is already nicely evolved stuff. Drink 2024-2030- 91

2021 Calera ‘Mt. Harlan’ Chardonnay- A fantastic wine, the 2021 Calera ‘Mt. Harlan’ Chardonnay comes from a site set on limestone soils and set at roughly 2,200 feet elevation. Stored in 30% new French oak for 15 months, this delivers buttered brioche and salted nectarine flavors alongside wonderful flinty accents on the palate from this limestone terroir. Refined and elegant, with a soft mouthfeel, this is drinking marvelously now. Drink 2024-2034- 94

2022 Calera ‘Central Coast’ Pinot Noir- Coming from a range of sub-appellations in the Central Coast AVA, the wine was aged for 10 months in only 10% new French oak prior to bottling. Smooth on the mouth and light on its feet, the Pinot Noir offers lovely salty accents alongside bright Bing cherry, pomegranate seed and Mandarin orange zest flavors. This is already beautifully evolved stuff. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2020 Calera ‘Mills Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- An outstanding wine from a tough vintage, the 2020 Calera ‘Mills Vineyard’ Pinot Noir comes rom this site set at 2,200 feet. Aged for 18 months in 30% new French oak, this delivers beautiful texture and weight once on the palate. Rich red fruits parade with refined tannins, toasty oak and shades of white truffle shavings on the palate. A joy to consume now, savor over the next eight plus years to come. Drink 2024-2032- 94

2020 Calera ‘Ryan Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2020 ‘Ryan Vineyard’ comes from old vine Calera selection Pinot Noir clones. Stored in 30% new French oak for 18 months, this offers a smooth texture with ripe strawberry, Yakima cherry and salty soil flavors on the palate. Really good now, enjoy over the next eight plus years to come. Drink 2024-2032- 94

2020 Calera ‘Jensen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This comes from the limestone based Jensen Vineyard, as the wine underwent 100% whole cluster fermentation prior to being stored in 30% new French oak for 18 months. Tart cranberry, teaberry and dusty soils all mark the nose. The palate is ripe and round with a generous mouthfeel and loads of bright red fruit and citrus zest flavors. A show-stopper in a challenging vintage, hats off to the Calera winemaking team. Drink 2024-2032- 95

2020 Calera ‘Reed Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The Reed Vineyard was planted all the way back in 1975, as these Calera Selection Pinot Noir vines are set on limestone soils. Super smooth and elegant once on the mouth, this offers ripe loganberry flavors that combine with salty soils and shades of juicy Yakima cherry on the palate. Delicious now, this will evolve well over the next seven plus years. Drink 2024-2032- 95

2020 Calera ‘De Villiers Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2020 Calera ‘De Villiers Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was stored for 18 months in mainly neutral oak barrels (70%) prior to bottling. Concentrated red berry flavors mark the palate, with tobacco leaf and stony undertones. Delicious now, this will evolve well over the next seven years to come. Drink 2024-2032- 94

Groth

I have such fond memories tasting at Groth in the outside sun. One of Napa’s historic sites, Groth Vineyards was founded in 1982 by Judy and Dennis Groth. Prior to starting their winery they found financial success while working for Ernst and Young in the South Bay. Dennis became chief financial officer at Atari and in 1981 they both purchased a large 121 acre parcel of land in Oakville back in 1982. These vineyards are on the floor of Napa, right in the prime area for growing beautiful Chardonnay, and Bordeaux varietals. Today, second-generation family member Suzanne Groth leads the business. New winemaker Ted Henry has an impressive resume which includes former stints at jJarvis Estate and Clos du Val.

He has crafted some beautiful wines from tough vintages. I love the new 2021 Groth Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 92)  which is insanely good for the price and offers a lush texture. They did an amazing job crafting their 2020 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 92) which is an amazing accomplishment from 2020. Learn more about this great historic winery at https://www.grothwines.com Here are the fantastic new bottling by Groth. 

2022 Groth ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2022 ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc is a great wine made from a challenging harvest. This comes off big and generous on the palate, with plenty of body. Kiwi and ripe gooseberry flavors combine with stony and salty accents on the palate. The weight and texture really drive this excellent wine. Enjoy now. Drink 2024-2030- 92

2022 Groth ‘Hillview Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2022 Groth ‘Hillview Vineyard’ Chardonnay was aged sur lie in French oak barrels (only 14% new) for eight months before bottling. Rich and polished, the smooth texture entices. Layers of buttercream and cantaloupe combine with Japanese pear and nectarine with stony accents on the palate. Showing nice poise and weight, this is already drinking beautifully. Drink 2024-2030- 92

2020 Groth ‘Oakcross’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Oakcross’ is named after the original name given to the Groth’s Oakville Estate Vineyard when it was planted in 1973. The wine is a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot that was stored in mainly new French oak barrels for 21 months before bottling. Very inky in the glass, this delivers bitter chocolate, blackberry pie, tar and creme de violette flavors on the palate, with firm tannins providing grip. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2020 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon combines 85% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Merlot. Stored in 45% new French oak, this offers silky tannins that frame a core of beautiful black fruits, alongside coffee grounds, creosote and shades of graphite on the palate. This is seriously good considering the challenges faced this vintage. Drink 2024-2032- 92

Open Claim

An amazing, limited production Oregon winery, Open Claim has now for years been making some of the state’s premier Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Started in 2014 by Marnie and Brett Wall, Open Claim creates a bigger style of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that are complete wines with a beginning, middle and end. They use a limited amount of new oak, despite their fleshy character.

A winemaker needing no introduction, Tony Rynders is easily one of the Pacific Northwest’s finest winemakers Formerly with Hogue and Domaine Serene, Tony crafts some incredible wines for his own label, Tendril. He has been the winemaker at Open Claim and is doing an incredible job with this site.

2021 was a seamless vintage throughout Oregon with warm temperatures and limited heat spikes. I adored the new 2021 wines. The 2021 Open Claim ‘Flora’s Veil’ Pinot Noir (OB, 96) is one of the finest Oregon Pinot Noirs that I have tasted in the past year. Deeply concentrated and refined, this will go for two more decades — and is marvelous in its heady, full-throttle youth. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.openclaimvineyards.com/ Here are the brilliant 2021 releases by Open Claim. 

2021 Open Claim ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay- This beautiful 2021 Chardonnay is a stunning effort by winemaker Tony Rynders. Stored for 18 months in 25% new French oak, this utilizes Dijon clonal selection 76 and 95 Chardonnay from the Open Claim Vineyard. Richly colored and perfumed, this is silky and refined on the palate, with good underlying freshness and salty accents. Wet stone, white peach and juicy sweetened gooseberry flavors combine with damp earthy accents on the palate. Drinking marvelously now, enjoy over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2024-2036- 95

2021 Open Claim ‘Flora’s Veil’ Pinot Noir- Deeply colored and perfumed, the 2021 ‘Flora’s Veil’ Pinot Noir is sourced from the tenth year farming this great vineyard set in the Mount Pisgah AVA. Stored for 18 months in 42% new French oak, this reveals marvelous concentration on the palate with a silky mouthfeel. Boysenberry and black cherry fruit flavors mingle well with salty soils, and great length, weight and bright underlying finesse. A total stunner, this is great to savor in its heady youth and will live on for decades to come. Drink 2024-2040- 96

Fidelitas

One of the outstanding houses of Red Mountain and Washington State, Fidelitas was founded by legendary winemaker Charlie Hoppes. Hoppes has served as former head winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle. Prior to working at Chateau Ste. Michelle, he attended the world renowned Viticulture and Enology program at the University of California, Davis and in 1988 he graduated with a degree in Agricultural Science and Management with a special emphasis in Viticulture and Enology. After a brief stint in Walla Walla in 1990 at Waterbrook Winery, he began working with superstar winemaker Mike Januik as a member of the winemaking team at Ste. Michelle in Woodinville. Hoppes had the pleasure of making the first vintages of Col Solare, from 1995-1998. After some time, Hoppes wanted to start his own project. Hoppes finally decided to purchase some land on Red Mountain, founding Fidelitas in 2000 -- and has produced fantastic reds and whites since that time. Fidelitas is known for their red and white Bordeaux blends, as well as their rich Cabernets. 

The Fidelitas wines I tasted were even better than those made in 2020. The 2021 wines are amongst the finest that I have ever tasted from this house.  I adored the the 2021 Fidelitas ’Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 96) which is bold and rich, yet possesses a fantastic freshness and lovely herbal accents. This is going to be better and better with a little age. Learn more about the great Fidelitas lineup at http://www.fidelitaswines.com/ Here are the great new wine releases from Fidelitas.

2021 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Merlot- This is 100% varietal coming from the famed Ciel du Cheval Vineyard. 40% of this wine comes from original plantings (1976). Stored in 40% new French oak, this is soft, round and generous on the mouth, with its plush texture. Layers of rich dark currants combine with red cherry, chocolate, red licorice and shades of sagebrush on the palate. Drink 2024-2040- 94

2021 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine- inspired by the great wines of the Right Bank, this red wine comprised of 50% Merlot, with 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and small parts Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Stored in 58% new French oak this offers beautiful milk chocolate notes from the Merlto alongside green herbs, dark currants and suggestions of middle eastern spices. The palate is marvelously balanced,  as you can see each working piece with the herbal tones, alongside graphite, dark fruits, graphite and tobacco notes. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2021 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Cabernet Franc- The 2021 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Cabernet Franc is an awesome new single varietal wine. Very inky in the glass, this takes on layers of fresh sage, red bell pepper and rich dark fruits with tobacco leaf. This has velvety tannins with refined texture and a seamless drinking experience. Marvelous now, this will live on for at least another fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2041- 95

2021 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2021 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Cabernet Sauvignon  comes from some old vine plantings from this site. A gorgeous, generous effort from this warm vintage, this100% varietal Cabernet displays a refined mouthfeel with velvety tannins on the palate. Rich dark cherry and boysenberry fruit flavors combine with dark chocolate shavings, espresso grounds and pencil lead notes on the palate. Drink 2024-2041- 95

2021 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Petit Verdot- The deeply perfumed and concentrated 2021 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Petit Verdot shows marvelous blue fruits on the nose with dried herbs, and dark chocolate shavings. The palate is incredibly good with a lush mouthfeel, refined tannins and a gorgeous core of blue and black fruits. Chewy and rich, enjoy now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2024-2041- 95

2021 Fidelitas ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Malbec- The 2021 Fidelitas ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Malbec comes from this famous site that has a small amount of Malbec planted. This wine has been made since the 2013 vintage. Mocha, tar and black licorice all mark the nose alongside exotic spices. Seamless and soft on the mouth, with great elegance and bright acidity, this is already drinking marvelously. Drink 2024-2041- 95

2021 Fidelitas ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 Fidelitas ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning wine that is already nicely evolved now at the three year mark. Once on the nose this takes on layers of tobacco leaf and damp soils alongside scorched earth and dense dark fruits. The palate is soft and refined with a seamless texture and wonderful sense of elegance. Concentrated and dense, with bright underlying acidity, this is a stunning new bottling that has richness, poise and wonderful earthy tones. This is going to age gracefully. Drink 2024-2044- 96

2021 Fidelitas ‘Optu’ Red Wine- This is one of the first Fidelitas wines that I tasted back in 2007. This 2021 ‘Optu’ combines 66% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller portions Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Stored in 33% new French oak, this offers black licorice and black tea on the nose alongside anise. The palate is soft and refined with a ripe mouthfeel. The sense of balance is beautiful here. Drink 2024-2040- 94

2020 Fidelitas ‘Blackwood Canyon Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming from this old vineyard first planted back in 1984. Some new American oak was used (24%) as this offers black pepper and coffee grounds alongside creme de cassis. The palate is soft and refined with silky tannins that combine with rich dark fruits alongside black tea and espresso grounds on the palate. Rich and viscous, this is a stunning effort from a tough vintage. Drink 2024-2030- 95

Leonetti Cellar

I have fond memories of tasting with fellow Arsenal supporter Chris Figgins. Figgins loves food and wine and we always manage to get a soccer conversation in — or two. He is finishing his incredible caves project at the FIGGINS estate vineyard which is going to be a sight to be seen and is a lifelong dream for this talented winemaker.

Leonetti has always been a highly traditional winery, making several wines each year and not branching out to new projects. They now have an amazing single vineyard project is a great chance for Chris to enter another element as a winemaker and the end results are extraordinary. He is also making Aglianico now for several years which is one of the unique wines made in our state. This is a tannic, rustic bottling that is a must-try for any lover of Washington wines or Italian wines.

A few days ago I had the chance to open the new lineup of Leonetti wines and I tasted each wine over several days to check on their evolution. A total stunner and unique bottling made in Washington, I love the new 2018 Leonetti Cellar Aglianico (OB, 96) which is amongst the finest wines of its kind that you will taste in North America. In a similar vein, you would be hard-pressed to try a finer Sangiovese bottling than the incredible 2021 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese (OB, 95) which is already beautifully evolved and is a masterful effort. Arguably the finest wine ever made at Leonetti Cellar, the 2021 Leonetti Cellar ‘Reserve’ Red Wine (OB, 99) flirts with perfection in a bottle. A wine with massive cellaring potential this beauty really needs a few more years of bottle age. Learn more about these stunning new wines at http://leonetticellar.com/ Here are my reviews of the beautiful new Leonetti Cellar wines. 

2021 Leonetti Sangiovese- A masterful effort in this slightly cooler vintage, the 2021 Leonetti Sangiovese isa 100% varietal wine that was stored for 22 months in new and once-filled French oak barrels and neutral oval Botti prior to bottling. Sourced from the Holy Roller, Loess, Seven Hills and Mill Creek Upland Vineyards, this opens with a dazzling bouquet of rose petals, old leather and wet rock alongside red currants and shades of menthol. The palate is silky smooth and refined with a seamless texture and weightless profile. Showing good richness from this warm vintage, the 2021 Leonetti Sangiovese is really inviting to consume even now in its bright youth. Give this an hour in the decanter before enjoying. Drink 2024-2039- 95

2022 Leonetti Merlot- The 2022 Leoentti Merlot is a brilliant, cool vintage wine that really needs an hour of air upon opening. Also 100% varietal in this vintage, the Merlot was sourced from the Loess, Mill Creek Upland and Leonetti Old Block Vineyards. Chocolate covered dark cherry and cigar box notes mark the nose alongside Arabica bean and shades of Chinese black tea. The palate is smooth and silky, with excellent concentration. With each sip the pillowy texture caresses you, as this is brimming with rich red licorice, boysenberry, roasted dates, black tea and exotic spice flavors. The sense of balance is exquisite as this fantastic new bottling will show well over the next two decades. An hour of air is going to do this wine wonders. Drink 2024-2044- 95

2021 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon- Delicious, decadent and a world-class effort, the 2021 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon is amongst the finest bottlings of its kind that I can recall over the past twenty years — for my palate rivaling only the 2018. Ironically this 2021, along with the 2018 are both 81% Cabernet Sauvignon. Anise, black currant jelly, wet stone and shades of huckleberry all mark the nose. The palate is refined and seamless throughout the drinking experience. While obviously black fruit-driven, right now the light green herbal tones from the larger portion of the Petit Verdot are beautifully melding together with the core of rich blackberry and black cherry alongside dark chocolate shavings and graphite. Showing a fantastic combination of weight, length and underlying finesse, this beauty will live on for another two plus decades. Just don’t open for at least another year as this stunner showed best on day 2 and 3. Tasted twice with consistent notes. Drink 2025-2050- 97

2021 Leonetti ‘Reserve’ Red Wine- A massive, blockbuster release that delivers an Oscar-worthy performance, the 2021 Leonetti ‘Reserve’ is amongst the finest wines that I have ever tasted from this estate — every bit up there with the scintillating 2018 bottling. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon with 14% Malbec, 7% Petit Verdot and 4% Merlot this exudes class on the nose with black currant cordial, scorched earth, sweet pipe tobacco, fresh sage and suggestions of Black Forest cake. The highly complex and heady aromatics are a joy to take in. The palate is rich and viscous with serious power and fantastic verve. A total heavyhitter, the 2021 ‘Reserve’ is nowhere near ready and will really benefit from another three plus years of bottle age. Please be patient with this incredible wine. Drink 2027-2055- 99

2018 Leonetti Aglianico- This is now the second time that I have tasted this truly novel 2018 Aglianico bottling. There isn’t a wine that is quite like this in North America. 100% varietal, this saw extended age for 44 months in terracotta amphorae, and new and neutral French oak barrels prior to bottling. Coming from the Serra Pedace Vineyard, this offers damp earth, cranberry and red currant notes on the nose with tobacco leaf accents. The palate shows rustic tannins that line a ripe core of red and dark fruit flavors, alongside wintergreen, flint and shades of wild blackberry. Give this outstanding wine another year in the bottle. Drink 2025-2044- 96