It was 2004 and I was in graduate school in San Diego. I had bought tickets to a wine event and was most excited to taste the wines of Tablas Creek which were gaining international acclaim for their wine quality, blending and attention to detail. If I could go back in time I would never anticipate sitting with Tablas Creek CEO Jason Haas and visiting every four vintages of their ‘Espirit’ back to their first vintage produced in 2000. Tablas Creek was founded all the way back in 1989 as a partnership between the famed Perrin family of Chateau de Beaucastel and the Haas family who founded Vineyard Brands. Originally named ‘Esprit de Beaucastel’ for their partnership with Chateau de Beaucastel, the name was switched more than a decade ago to ‘Espirit de Tablas’ reflecting that this is a tour de force, stand alone wine from Paso Robles. The ‘Espirit’ has become one of the quintessential California Rhone-inspired wines — and wine that consistently over-delivers for the price and deftly captures the art of blending almost unlike any other red wine in its state.
Haas and I were both amazed with how the oldest wine of the tasting held, the 2000 ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ (OB, 93). At twenty-four years of age, this still had good freshness with a smooth mouthfeel and was loaded with tertiary notes with light red fruits. Another wonderful surprise was the 2004 ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ (OB, 96) which was made in a more extracted and generous style, with more new wood, but the wine was holding marvelously. Haas and I both had little doubt that the finest wine of the tasting was the absolutely thrilling 2008 ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ (OB, 98) which was seamless, dense and finesse-driven, as you could see each varietal working in clockwork precision. Despite it being early in the morning I savored several sips of this unforgettable aged California Rhone. This was quite simply an unforgettable tasting that reminds me of the incredible stability of these wines. Learn more about the famed wines of Tablas Creek at https://tablascreek.com/ and here are my reviews from an incredible vertical tasting of ‘Espirit de Tablas’ by Tablas Creek.
2020 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine- The heady and rich 2020 ‘Espirit de Tablas’ is mainly Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah with smaller parts Counoise, Vaccarese and Cinsault. This is already neatly evolved with a smooth texture displaying a dizzying core of dark fruits with tobacco leaf, stony minerals and wild herbs. While enticing now, this will surely live on for another fifteen years. If savoring now be sure to give this about an hour in the decanter. Drink 2024-2039- 95
2016 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine- The outstanding 2016 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine is similarly comprised to the 2020, made with slightly more Syrah. Right away this is very alluring in the glass, offering polished red florals with smoky character alongside dried herbs, Mandarin orange zest and dark currants. The palate is very fresh and refined with a smooth texture. The weight of the wine and chalky mineral notes are really shining. The star of the show seems to be Grenache here with its very pretty character and sweet red fruits. Gorgeous and generous now, this has another fifteen years to go. Drink 2024-2039- 96
2012 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine- The 2012 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine is nicely evolved, offering tertiary notes already with wild mushroom and bright red fruits alongside wet stone and first floor with red flowers. Beautiful and complex with a gorgeous purity of red fruit character, with smoked meats and hints of black truffle this is marvelous to consume now. Enjoy this savory beauty over the next five plus years. Drink 2024-2030- 95
2008 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ Red Wine- The 2008 ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ shows a darker core than the ‘12 and has a slightly larger portion of Syrah blended in. This is a dizzying, highly complex bottling that will sure to satisfy any lover of California Rhones. The balance and combination of red fruit, damp earth, pine needles and chalky souls in simply marvelous. The smoky and savory notes become more evident with more air, with light citrus accents. You can see each varietal working in clockwork precision here with its core a blend of 38% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache, and 26% Syrah. The weight and poise suggests this still has a very long way to go. A total stunner, enjoy over the next ten years. Drink 2024-2034- 98
2004 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ Red Wine- This 2004 ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ has a very high percentage of Mourvèdre blended in as Grenache vines were still very young at Tablas Creek. This year was the third year in a drought cycle but this was a moderately warm year. The balance and poise is beautiful here with good richness and flavor density, showing a core of rich black plum, tangerine zest and ripe boysenberry fruit flavors. This is tannic and muscular 20 year wine is absolutely rocking right now, as the new wood has allowed this to really evolve gracefully. Drink 2024-2032- 96
2000 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ Red Wine- Shockingly good at near 25 years, and still very bright, the 2000 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ combines 35% Mourvèdre and 26% Syrah with the remainder Grenache and Counoise. It has bright tension remaining with a very pretty core of wild strawberry and guava fruit flavors alongside stony minerals and wild herbs. Consume now. Drink 2024-2028- 93