One of my favorite Tuscan houses is Bibi Graetz. I had an unforgettable visit there last year (https://owenbargreen.com/blog/2025/7/7/bibi-graetz). A total renegade in his region, Bibi has transformed the wines made in Tuscany. Since his inaugural release 25 years ago Graetz has become one of Tuscany’s cult winemakers without having any formal training in winemaking. The Testamatta and Colore bottling have made him an international success as these wines have been revered by critics across the globe.
Bibi sources from old vines in Tuscany as well as old vines from the Isola del Giglio which is a remote island that has ancient indigenous vines planted. His wines are crafted from traditional varieties of Sangiovese, Colorino, and Canaiolo for the reds and the indigenous varieties of Ansonica and Vermentino for his whites wines.
2020 was a warm vintage but Bibi did such a great job with these wines. The wine shows warmth of the vintage but also amazing salty tension. This beauty has such a long time to go in the cellar. The 2020 ‘Testamatta’ (OB, 95) is in a glorious place right now. This thing really needed a day of air and I lifted the cork fully after 24 hours to show beautiful florals and concentration. This is one that I picked up to enjoy with friends on my holiday — and the wine continued to delver on the second day. Learn more about this famed winery at http://www.bibigraetz.com and here is my review of the 2020 1.5L of ‘Testamatta.’
2020 Bibi Graetz ‘Testamatta’ [1.5L]- A stunning wine out of magnum, I recently picked up several bottles of the 2020 ‘Testamatta.’ In large format it really needs a day of air to fully be aroused. Red rose petals and potpourri notes combine with sandalwood, amaro and shades of red raspberry puree on the nose. The palate is big, rich and bold with serious texture and salty minerality. A gorgeous wine to enjoy now, this has at least another fifteen years in front of it. Drink 2026-2041- 95