Review: The Allison, A Willamette Valley Gem

An incredible spot on a scenic plot of land, The Allison is an amazing destination for anyone tasting in the Willamette Valley. This was the second stay I had at the hotel and they did their best to make it a highly memorable stay.  We were in room 207 which was large and was one of their typical rooms with a small balcony.

The bathroom was expansive and beautifully done with a large tub in the middle of the room. There were not fancy bathroom products as the shampoo, conditioner and shower gel were unmarked — but they all smelled great. They could have probably brought out some marked designer bathroom products considering the price of the room. As an example, Hotel 1000 in Seattle uses top class Le Labo bathroom products. I had a relaxing bath and some relax time.

The decor was functional and nicely done in an upscale cabin motif, using deep wood and stonework finishings. Carpet was relatively thick and while the room had not recently been remodeled, it presented as modern. The room was essentially divided into two main rooms with a large king sized bed and the bathroom area. While it has been more than ten years since the rooms had been remodeled they do not present as outdated. A fancy Nespresso machine made each morning fully caffeinated. There was also a bar with Riedel stems.

For years I have admired the food and wine program at Jory — one of the great in-house restaurants that you will find. I’ve eaten at Jory many times and the food has been consistently good. We had two chances to dine there and I’ll start with brunch. Having two top Oregon bubbles on their list was really awesome. The NV Flaneur and 2019 Collorary Brut Rose were both beautiful foils that my wife and I enjoyed. I ordered a top notch burger with thick bacon. The patty was perfectly cooked and very juicy. Homemade cesar salad was fantastic with freshly made dressing. The burger was on a fresh brioche bun and was topped with homemade aioli which was a must. It is one of the best burgers that I have tasted in the past year.

We dined at Jory Friday night for dinner. It was an early reservation as we were with our infant and they had top notch service throughout. The wine list is expansive and since we were in Oregon tasting many Oregon wines I opted for the 2014 Clos de Papes Blanc which is a benchmark Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc. This one was really singing with its nutty tones and still has so much life to give. We ordered a really good cocktail from the bar, an old-fashioned that was neatly balanced and not too sweet. The bar manager was knowledgeable and kind. Service here is clearly a Vegas-level of quality and effort.  I personally hate when you pay a premium for a hotel room and nobody answers the phone downstairs. I’ve stayed at Four Seasons and Ritz-Carlton where this is the case. Service was consistently great throughout our stay.

My main was world-class steak, Australian Wagyu. The nutty character from the aging of the steak was really extraordinary. This was cooked perfectly rare. The steak sauce was wonderfully rich without overdoing the flavors of the steak. This was an A+ meal that was beautifully cooked and prepared. We opted not to have dessert wine or dessert as the wine I had chosen was so fabulous and we had not finished it

We headed back to the room and put our baby down while enjoying some of the Chateaneuf du Pape on our private balcony overlooking the moon and stars. When it was time for bed, we nestled down into our king sized mattress, and I’m not exaggerating by saying that the bed was one of the highlights of this stay. I enjoyed a world-class sleep on this incredibly comfortable bed that was medium firmness. Pillows also nicely ranged from soft to firm which gives travelers options. My wife continued to comment on our drive home how much she enjoyed the bed that was even nicer than the Westin Heavenly Bed.

Bottom Line:

We had an amazing stay at The Allison. It was so good that we didn’t want to leave. We had a chance to use the gym and pool before our stay was over which was quiet and private. The gym was 5-star quality with heavy weights for large people like myself. Checkout was a breeze as was the complimentary valley. This is a great way to get out of the city as the grounds there are expansive and it is very quiet. We literally did not hear any of the guests while staying, as rooms are well-insulated and very well-constructed. The stay was calm and relaxing. I’m sure a remodel will be eventually in the works but the room was modern and laid out remarkably well as each room comes with either a porch or balcony for some seclusion. Modern touches like a beautiful stand alone bath and fireplace add to the value. This is not a cheap stay as weekend rates were over 700 plus tax but this place is worth a splurge when you consider location and amenities. Room rates are also less expensive during non-weekends. They could probably upgrade their bathroom spa products to a brand that matches the quality of the hotel. I also encountered some internet issues for part of my stay but other than that the room quality, food quality/service at Jory and service experience was nothing short of 5-star. We will definitely be heading back to The Allison, truly the finest stay you will find in the Willamette Valley.

Cote Nicault

Cote Nicault is a story all about winemaker Gilles Nicault, one of Washington’s great winemakers whose family has a history in agriculture dating back to the 1930s in Africa. Growing up Gilles was exposed to the great wines of the Rhone Valley by his father who was an enophile, particularly enjoying the great wines of Chateauneuf du Pape. Gilles became infatuated with those wines as well and made the decision to study winemaking and viticulture at the acclaimed University of Avignon. It was a huge move for Gilles to move to the United States and he landed in Walla Walla back in 1994, working for Woodward Canyon. Studying under the guidance of eminent Washington wine icon Rick Small he knew there was unparalleled potential in Washington wine. Washington wine visionary Allen Shoupe hired him as the first and only winemaker for Long Shadows Vintners in 2003, and for many years he has served as Director of Winemaking and Viticulture there, making some of the finest wines that Washington State has to offer.

Côte Nicault is a limited production, Rhone inspired wine that Gilles makes each year. The wine is all about balance between Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah. It is a very different wine to the Long Shadows ‘Sequel’ — one with more finesse, subtlety and nuance. I absolutely love the new 2019 Côte Nicault Red Wine (OB, 95) which is deep and concentrated with pure dark fruits and herbal accents. This beauty is already nicely evolved. Learn more about these great wine at https://www.cotenicault.com and here is the great new future release by Côte Nicault.

2020 Cote Nicault Red Wine- The 2020 Cote Nicault is a seductive melange of near equal parts Mourvèdre, Syrah and Grenache  — all hailing from the Red Haven Vineyard on Red Mountain. Stored in a combination of new and used French oak and terracotta botti, this offers really good richness and tension. Smoked beef ribs, Hoisin sauce, black currants and garrigue notes all combine with loads of mouth-watering acidity. Coming off clean, this is rich and broad-shouldered wine that is drinking marvelously now. No reason to cellar this beauty. Drink 2024-2030- 96

Col Solare Vertical Tasting

For years I’ve unabashedly been a sucker for one of the finest stops on Red Mountain. Col Solare is one that I have bought extensively for my personal collection. The consistency of the wine is one that my friends and I particularly have admired for now several decades. Col Solare is a historic partnership between the Antinori family and Chateau Ste. Michelle. One of the state’s most beautiful wineries, Col Solare is a must-visit with sweeping views spanning the Columbia Valley. Their first vintage was back in 1995, as Col Solare’s mission has been to amalgamate these two distinct viticultural and winemaking backgrounds to create a fantastic Cabernet Sauvignon-based red wine from choice Red Mountain fruit. I have tasted every vintage of this wine and current winemaker Stephanie Cohen joined me for a very special Zoom tasting and vertical of this amazing wine. Cohen trained under her predecessor, Darell Allwine. Allwine made some incredible wines for years, as did his predecessor, Marcus Notaro. The first wine of the tasting was made by Notaro, the 2009 Col Solare and during that time and they were in the process of finding vineyards from around Red Mountain. Col Solare was  made of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon in 2011 and was entirely Red Mountain fruit driven with the 2012 vintage.

With the 2019 vintage there were many changes in the vineyard to mirror what the Antinoris were doing with their estates. This also came with a heavy shift in price point for the Col Solare, bumped up from $85.00 to $150.00 SRP. Their 2019 was a seriously impressive effort considering the obvious challenges at harvest. “We changed the yields so they are lower and we want intensity of flavor from that change” said winemaker Stephanie Cohen. “Will and Darel did a great job managing the tannins from this vintage” she said. “We did a lot of work blending the wine and we did a lot of zoom blendings because of the Pandemic which made it hard sending samples to Italy. It was a fun process” Cohen said. The wine showed good depth and concentration from this year that was marred by a freeze event in mid-October.

The 2020 wine was the first harvest that Cohen joined the team. “Early April we were in full bud break and we had fabulous growing conditions. Then of course we all know about the smoke event in 2020 but I think that Red Mountain fared well. I am really excited about the wine that we made, still great red fruit but on the palate there is good density.” There were a few lots removed due to smoke impact. “2020 is a big wine and I think that I prefer more elegant wines like the 2019 but with some time the 2020 will get there” said Cohen.

She described 2021 as “hard with the heat of the vintage and it was tough managing tannins. But 2021 is a big wine. 2022 might be more like the 2016 vintage for me” she said. 2022 also marked the first vintage that Cohen was head winemaker. The 2021 Col Solare (OB, 95) is a total masterclass, showing brilliantly now and has gobs of richness and flavor density — really showing off the warmth of this vintage. Learn more about these famed wines at colsolare.com and here are my reviews of this incredible retrospective tasting of Col Solare.

2009 Col Solare Red Wine- The 2009 Col Solare is a stunning, warm vintage wine that combines 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec. This is very mature wine that is drinking in a great spot now. This displays a smooth mouthfeel, with prune and tobacco leaf alongside light tannins, and coffee ground undertones. Drink now. Drink 2024-2028- 92

2014 Col Solare Red Wine- A great wine from this hot vintage, the 2014 Col Solare is soaring in the glass — a silky combination of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 9% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot and the remainder Syrah. The wine shows a velvety texture, offering scorched earth on the nose with pencil lead, dark chocolate shavings and creme de violette. Soft and very approachable now, this is drinking marvelously right now. Drink 2024-2030- 94

2018 Col Solare Red Wine- From my personal collection, the 2018 Col Solare is a flat-out delicious bottling that still has a long life in front of it. On the nose this takes on classic scorched earth tones alongside pipe tobacco leaf, dark chocolate shavings and tar notes. The palate is plush and refined with soft tannins and a generous core of black fruit flavors, with herbal accents. A totally stunning wine, enjoy over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2024-2036- 95

2019 Col Solare Red Wine- What is a fabulous wine made in this cooler vintage, the 2019 Col Solare is nearly all Cabernet Sauvignon with 5% Cabernet Franc blended in. beautiful bouquet takes on layers of tar, black currants, black plum, violets and scorched earth notes. The palate is plush with a seamless texture and shows some lovely weight. Nicely poised, this beautifully perfumed wine is drinking marvelously now. Drink 2023-2035- 94

2020 Col Solare Red Wine- A great wine from a tough vintage, the 100% varietal 2020 Col Solare Red Wine. This comes off round and smooth with good viscosity and underlying verve. Generous black fruits combine with chocolate pie, espresso grounds and shades of black licorice on the palate. This is really well-done. Drink 2024-2032- 93

2021 Col Solare Red Wine- A dense and delicious wine from this warm vintage, the 2021 Col Solare has 5% Cabernet Franc blended in. This wine is nearly all Quintessence Vineyard with the remainder coming from the Col Solare estate vineyard. Very inky at its core, the 2021 opens with a gorgeous bouquet of allspice dusted black currant alongside cassis, Turkish coffee and suggestions of tar. This has incredible poise and concentration, with loamy soil character. This is an absolutely gorgeous wine that is already drinking beautifully. Drink 2024-2040- 95

Long Shadows 'Julia's Dazzle' Rose

Winter means dark days of the Pacific Northwest but when February hits you know you are steadily inching towards spring. Rose season has slowly begun in 2024 which means plenty of bright and tension-filled Rose wines will soon be in our glass. Today we present one of the consistently great Rose wines out of Washington, ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ made by famed producer Long Shadows. Year after year this wine has impressed since its inception and it is my pleasure to be the first wine critic to review this beautiful wine sourced from the Columbia Valley. A week ago I tasted high atop the Seattle skyline at the Smith Tower alongside famed Long Shadows winemaker Gilles Nicault. He was impressed with the freshness and flavor range in this wine. The 2023 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose (OB, 93) is very polished and light on its feet with a beautiful purity of red fruit flavors. This is best tasted at a slightly warmer temperature. At under 20 bucks this is a killer value — the 2023 ‘Dazzle' is truly one of the best value Rose wines Pacific Northwest Rose market. Learn more about these incredible wines at longshadows.com and here is my review of the 2023 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose.

2023 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose- Bone dry, the 2023 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose was stored in stainless steel. This did not see any battonage but based on the mouthfeel you would guess that. Almost all Pinot Gris grapes, this comes from the Gamache, McNary and Hogue Ranch vineyards. Bright strawberry and kiwi notes combine with shades of guava on the nose. The palate is rich and mineral-laden with a very pretty cure of red fruit flavors alongside damp earth and shades of kiwi and cantaloupe on the palate. Beautiful textured, this has impeccable balance with weight, favor range and finesse. Drink 2024-2030- 93

Beautus

This is now the second edition of the Beatus which is one of the most electric new projects that I tasted last year out of the Pacific Northwest. A fantastic story about Todd Alexander making wines from the Southern Rhone, Alexander was enchanted by the terroir of Chateauneuf du Pape and connected with Anne-Charlotte of Chateau de la Font Du Loup to make this very special wine coming from her estate vineyard.

For those less familiar with Chateau de la Font Du Loup, proprietor Anne-Charlotte Mélia Bachas is the fourth generation winemaker in the Mélia family. Soils at this 20 hectare site are quite diverse, having a large portion of sand and also cobblestone material. The stones range considerably in size here, from small pebbles to larger cobblestones.

Alexander made a world-class 2020 bottling and the 2021 wine is every bit as good. The 2021 Beatus Chateauneuf du Pape (OB, 97) is dense and shows a fantastic purity of red fruits. This is hedonistic and highly pleasurable stuff that shows beautiful salty accents and depth. Learn more about these wines at https://beatuswine.com/ and here is my review of the 2021 Beatus Chateauneuf du Pape.

2021 Beatus Chateauneuf du Pape- A total masterclass, the 2021 Beatus was sourced from the Chateau de la Font Du Loup estate vineyard. Dense, heady and really pleasurable in its full-throttle youth, the 2021 Beatus offers ripe red currants, menthol and red rose petals on the nose alongside shades of cardamom. The palate is vibrant and nervy with terrific richness and mouth-watering acidity. Ripe guava flavors mingle well with salty minerals, pomegranate seed and anise notes on the palate. Finishing very long, this is a stunning example of top Chateauneuf du Pape and will cellar well for many years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 97

Soter

It is my pleasure to share one of the longstanding houses in Oregon. A truly great winery founded by Tony and Michelle Soter, the Soter 'Mineral Springs Ranch’ is a 240-acre oak savanna in the center of the Willamette Valley. The vineyard is certified biodynamic and was planted to 15 acres of Pinot Noir in 2002 and 2003, and an additional 15 acres in 2006. Two acres of Chardonnay were included in the 2006 plantings which are used for their sparkling wine production. Small extension blocks have been added over the years to grow their total production to 40 acres.

This is a scenic, expansive property that is a must-visit for any lover of bubbles or Oregon Pinot Noir. Over the years Soter has gained a sterling reputation for producing some of the great sparkling wines of Oregon. It is no question that winemaker Chris Fladwood has a fantastic career in wine. After serving our country in the US Army, Fladwood worked harvests in New Zealand as well as Bordeaux. He became Soter cellar master in 2009 and has worked his way to the winemaker position. I love the new ‘Estates’ releases. Don’t miss out on the stunning 2021 Soter ‘Estates’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which is impeccably balanced, with good richness and bright acidity. Learn more about this famed Oregon producer at http://sotervineyards.com/ Here are the beautiful new wines by Soter Vineyards.

2021 Soter ‘Estates’ Chardonnay- The really good 2021 Soter ‘Estates’ Chardonnay mainly comes from the Eola-Amity Hills estate with smaller parts coming from the Mineral Springs Vineyard. Initially stored for 12 months in oak barrels and 6 months in stainless steel, this was then aged for a year in bottles. Everything is in clockwork balance here, between oak treatment, richness, texture and bright underlying finesse. Once on the mouth this offers chalky soils and diatomaceous earth notes alongside lemon zest, kiwi and ripe brioche tones on the palate. Truly outstanding, savor now and over the next eight to ten years — or potentially more. Drink 2024-2032- 94

2022 Soter ‘Estates’ Pinot Noir- The 2022 Soter ‘Estates’ Pinot Noir was stored in 30% new French oak and was given 25% whole cluster fermentation. This is very juicy and well-structured Pinot Noir, with defined tannins that mingle well with lush red fruits, tobacco leaf, salty soils and shades of stony minerals. Viscous, fleshy and mineral-driven stuff to drink now, enjoy over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2024-2032- 93

Bodega Contador

One of the epic stars of Rioja, Benjamin Romeo worked as winemaker at Artadi between 1985 and 2000, before starting his Contador project. Situated in and around San Vicente de la Sonsierra, Benjamin has 7 hectares, half devoted to La Vina de Andres, and the other half divided between 20 plots averaging 130 square feet with vines up to 100 years old. His wines have gained international acclaim. I would describe his winemaking style as modern, with old world elegance — almost like Opus One which is obviously a new world wine shows refinement and elegance.

Across the board, Romeo hits a home run with his new release wines. A tremendous value Rioja Blanco, the 2021 Bodega Contador ‘Predicator’ Rioja Blanco (OB, 92)  which is rich and viscous stuff, with fantastic flavor range. A very special and novel wine, the 2022 Bodega Contador ‘Que Bonito Cacareaba’ White Wine (OB, 95) is very dense and heady with a fantastic viscosity and mineral backbone.  Learn more about these very special wines at http://bodegacontador.com Here are the fantastic new wines by Bodega Contador.

2022 Bodega Contador ‘Predicator’ Rioja Blanco- The 2022 ‘Predicador’ combines Garnacha Bianco (42%), and Viura (33%) with the remainder Malvasía. This is smooth and silky on the palate, delivering saline drenched melon fruits, tangerine peel and beeswax notes on the palate, with nutty accents. A total gem, this over-delivers for the price. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2021 Bodega Contador ‘Predicator’ Rioja- This great wine is a combination of 96% Tempranillo with a touch of Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo which was aged for 16 months in French oak. This is a really good value, showing rich dark fruits, kumquat zest and chocolate tones on the palate with pipe tobacco, leather and loamy soils. Drink 2024-2032-92

2022 Bodega Contador ‘Que Bonito Cacareaba’ White Wine- The 2022 Bodega Contador ‘Que Bonito Cacareaba’ White Wine is another magical release of this wine, blending 50% Garnacha Blanca, with 34% Viura, and the remainder 16% Malvasía. It is wonderfully refined and viscous. Layers of honeycomb, white peach, starfruit and juicy pear all parade with sourdough bread and pecan accents on the palate. Finishing exceedingly long, this is a total masterpiece by Contador. Drink 2024-2039- 95

Decoy

Wine doesn’t have to be expensive to be good. While my heart might yearn for Chateau Margaux to pair with my BBQ beef ribs, my wallet knows that’s just not an option. One of the great value brands out of California. Decoy wines is the brainchild of Dan and Margaret Duckhorn who created this portfolio of wines to appeal to a wider range of customers. Not everyone can afford 80 dollar Merlot and the Duckhorns sought to place their product for the value-driven grocery store crowd that seeks an outstanding wine for any night of the week. Decoy as a brand began back in 1985 and then much later in 2007 the new label came out as the brand soon expanded to produce Zinfandel as well as a red blend. 2020 brought the Decoy Limited collection of wines which I recently reviewed.

The new 2022 Decoy Chardonnay (OB, 90) is brimming with richness and bright acidity. It is an outstanding value. I really enjoy the ‘Limited’ collection wines. Check out the new 2022 Decoy ‘Sonoma Coast Limited’ Chardonnay (OB, 91) which is very ripe but also shows good nuance from this salty climate. Learn more about these excellent values at decoywines.com and here are my reviews of the new Decoy wines.

2022 Decoy Chardonnay- This very well-priced 2022 Chardonnay shows a smooth mouthfeel with layers of peach and baking spice dusted brioche notes on the palate, with nutty accents. It is a really good value, with solid tension, that is drinking well right now. Drink 2024-2028- 90

2022 Decoy Rose- This 2022 Rose comes off a bit lean and linear with good verve. Faint red fruits mingle with orange peel accents. Drink 2024-2026- 88

2021 Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon offers straightforward black cherry and black raspberry flavors with shades of tar. Drink 2024-2028- 88

2022 Decoy ‘Sonoma Coast Limited’ Chardonnay- A good value, the 2022 Decoy ‘Sonoma Coast Limited’ Chardonnay offers more flavor complexity than the entry level bottling. Lime zest, rock salt and excellent tension all mark this wine that is best consumed now and over the next few years. Drink 2024-2030- 91

2022 Decoy ‘Alexander Valley Limited’ Red Blend A touch sweet, this 2021 Red Blend shows back tea and baking spice flavors alongside straightforward black fruit flavors.  Lacking a bit in flavor density, enjoy now. Drink 2024-2028- 89

2021 Decoy ‘Sonoma Coast Limited’ Pinot Noir Good work in a hot vintage, the 2022 Decoy ‘Sonoma Coast Limited’ Pinot Noir delivers a smooth mouthfeel with cran-cherry, pomegranate seed and copious minerals on the palate. Drink 2024-2028- 90

2000 Argyle 'Spirithouse' Retrospective

Today we present an incredible vintage retrospective from Oregon. Argyle has started re-releasing some of their older wines and with great pleasure I had the chance on revisiting the 2000 vintage — one that I had admittedly not tasted for several years. My friend and college Jason Wehling has a deep collection of older Oregon wines and regularly tastes wines from not only the early 2000s but the 1990s. I admittedly am less familiar with Oregon wines that pre-date 2002.

The millennium vintage was one that was somewhat challenging. Former Argyle winemaker Rollin Soles described the 2000 vintage as “A Grand Prix Race strategy.” He noted that July and August somehow did not have a single day which eclipsed 90 degrees. 2000 began with a warm spring led to good fruit set and largely uniform clusters. Soles explained “We started picking 22 September and crossed the finish line on the 14th of October.” Like many vintages, October also brought some rain and cold conditions at harvest. The Willamette Valley Wine Associated called this a “pretty” vintage that is maybe not the heavyweight of 2002 but eclipsed some from the 1990s. Oregon wine collector and old Oregon wine expert Jason Wehling admitted “for my palate I take 2001 over 2000 but looking at the weather stats these were very similar vintages. Both had about an inch of rain at harvest and 2000 might possess slightly better overall acidity.”

Tasting both of these wines side by side, I was amazed how well both had held. The 2000 Argyle ‘Spirithouse’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) had been recorded and it showed a dizzying flavor range with rocking tertiary notes. Very nutty and earthy, this is right in its sweet spot and was not at all over the hill. Just as good was the incredible 2000 Argyle ‘Spirithouse’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) was massively complex. Also very earthy, there was a great deal of red fruit flavors remaining. Tasting these wines I couldn’t help but appreciate the mind and hands of Oregon wine pioneer Rollin Soles who made these incredible wines that have held for nearly twenty-five years. Cheers to Rollin and all that he has done for Oregon wine. Learn more at argylewinery.com and here are my reviews of the 2000 re-release wines by Argyle.

2000 Argyle ‘Spirithouse’ Chardonnay- The 2000 ‘Spirithouse’ Chardonnay weighs in at 13.5% alcohol as this wine comes from a range of Dijon clonal selections coming from the Spirit Hill Vineyard. This shows amazing flavor complexity, with honey, Pink Lady apple and salted Macadamia nut flavors on the palate, with good tension. With more air shades of mango, peat moss and roasted pineapple enter the arena, as this is drinking marvelously right now. Drink 2024-2030- 94

2000 Argyle ‘Spirithouse’ Pinot Noir- The 2000 ‘Spirithouse’ PINot Noir is a marvelous, historic Oregon bottling that is fully ready to go right now. This still possesses a great mineral edge, laded with stony accents alongside loamy soils, white truffle shavings, red currants, tobacco leaf and shades of iodine on the palate. Hugely complex and neatly textured, displaying plenty of weight and mouth-watering acidity, this is a marvelous achievement that is best enjoyed now and over the next few years. Drink 2024-2029- 94

FIGGINS

Today we share one of the unique wines made in Washington State. The FIGGINS ‘Figlia’ is stunning wine that comes from the high elevation FIGGINS estate vineyard, in the foothills of the Blue Mountains. The wine combines Merlot and Petit Verdot. The star of the show is the Petit Verdot which evokes beautiful herbal and chocolate notes alongside dense dark and blue fruit flavors. This is some of the finest Petit Verdot that you will taste in the Pacific Northwest. The Petit Verdot from this site is truly a monster with massive tannins so the Merlot added really softens this wine. Each wine is stored in a small portion of new oak barrels, as this utilizes mostly neutral oak.

I had the incredible opportunity to taste every vintage of this wine with FIGGINS founder and winemaker Chris Figgins a few months back. I was amazed how well these age. The new release comes from the 2021 vintage which was generous and warm. Red wines from this vintage have been consistently outstanding. I am totally enamored by the 2021 FIGGINS ‘Figlia’ (OB, 97) which was a heady and intense bottling that will easily live on for another twenty years. Learn more about these fantastic wines at figginswine.com. Here are my reviews of the new 2021 FIGGINS ‘Figlia’ wine.

2021 FIGGINS ‘Figlia’ Red Wine- The stunning 2021 ‘Figlia’ is a one of a kind blend of equal parts Merlot and Petit Verdot — both coming from the estate vineyard owned by Chris Figgins. Stored in only 26% new French oak, the ‘Figlia’ is a brooding, inky and beautifully-poised monster of a wine at this moment that really needs an hour or two of air before savoring. Pencil lead, violets, tar, tobacco leaf, heady dark and blue fruits alongside shades of espresso grounds all mark the nose.  The hugely complex nose brings you back to the glass for more indulgence. The palate is elegant and refined, with a smooth texture and beautiful sense of finesse and weight. Everything is in clockwork balance here. Give this another year at least before enjoying — your patience will be rewarded. Drink 2025-2045- 97

WillaKenzie Estate

I fondly recall my first bottling of WillaKenzie Estate. After tasting the incredible 2002 ‘Terres Basses’ I had to go visit for myself. I was in graduate school in 2005 and I descended upon this beautiful winery. A truly unique and scenic vineyard, WillaKenzie produces Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris with small amounts of Pinot Meunier, Gamay Noir and Chardonnay. A few years back the winery built expansive facility, with sweeping views across the Willamette Valley.

Acquired a few years back by Jackson Family, Erik Kramer serves as winemaker, formerly applying his trade at Domaine Serene. The wines he mades are really good. His wines are focused with beautiful mid-palate ripeness and impressive quality across the board. I really enjoyed his 2021 WillaKenzie ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which is beautifully textured, showing good weight from this warm vintage. Learn more about this great producer at willakenziestate.com and here are my reviews of the new wines by WillaKenzie Estate.

2022 WillaKenzie Estate Rose- Bright and loaded with tension the 2022 Rose by winemaker Erik Kramer offers red rose water with orange rind and pretty guava and red raspberry fruit flavors. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next several years to come. Drink 2024-2028- 90

2021 WillaKenzie Estate ‘Estate Cuvee’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 ‘Estate Cuvee’ opens with bright red fruits with a smooth texture and citrus rind accents on the palate. Soft and refined, with a smooth texture and plenty of salty soil accents, this is drinking marvelously now. Drink 2024-2032- 93

Penner-Ash

One of the famed Oregon wineries, Penner-Ash was founded back in 1998 by Lynn and Ron Penner-Ash. Their first vintage was 2005 and they received remarkable success with vintages to follow. Located in the Northern Willamette Valley’s Yamhill-Carlton sub-AVA the pair built their LIVE (Low Input Viticulture & Enology) Certified sustainable gravity-flow winery surrounded by a 15-acre Estate Vineyard. The winery was sold to Jackson Family in 2016 and the impressive quality in the wines remains today.

I have really enjoyed the last few releases of these wines. Don’t miss out on the 2022 Penner-Ash ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay (OB,93) which has great depth and weight, without coming off heavy. I think this one will age gracefully. Learn more about this great story at https://www.pennerash.com and here are my reviews of the new Penner-Ash wines.

2022 Penner-Ash ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay- The outstanding 2022 Penner-Ash ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay is located with rich pear, peach and stony minerals on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, with a gorgeous texture, this is a marvelous bottling that will drink well over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2024-2032- 93

2021 Penner-Ash ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 Penner-Ash ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir is a beautiful warm vintage wine that displays good flavor density and finesse. Layers of rich plum and spice cake combine with red currants and tobacco leaf on the palate. Rich and viscous, enjoy now and over the next ten years to come. This is really serious for an entry-level Pinot. Drink 2024-2034- 93

2021 Penner-Ash ‘Zena Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir-The 2021 Penner-Ash ‘Zena Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir offers loads of stony minerals on the nose alongside rich red fruits, menthol and shades of white pepper. The palate is mineral-laden with loads of freshness and a seamless sense of mouthfeel. Finishing long with rich red fruits, baking spices and salty soils, this is a generous, complex bottling that will cellar well over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2039- 94

Acumen

A story made full-circle, entrepreneur Eric Yuan has his Napa journey complete. Guided by legendary winemaker Phillip Titus and renowned Viticulturist Garrett Buckland, his brand  Acumen Wines has established an estate that features 116 organically certified acres of vines, spread across two vineyards on Napa Valley’s Atlas Peak. The Acumen team makes a small portfolio of estate-grown wines, with a focus on mountain-grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc as well as Sauvignon Blanc.

Winemaker Phillip Tutus describes this region as “remote and extremely difficult to plant.” Acumen acquired its first vineyard on Atlas Peak in 2012. Originally planted in 1992, and featuring 32 acres of vines with a northeast exposure, the Attelas Vineyard was the ‘home vineyard’ of Dr. Jan Krupp, predating his famed Stagecoach Vineyard by three years. In 2014, Acumen expanded its estate program with the acquisition of the Edcora Vineyard, which features 84 acres of vines 350 feet higher up on Atlas Peak.

I adored both of the new release wines by Acumen, both coming from the outstanding 2021 vintage. The 2021 Acumen Wines ‘PEAK’ Cabernet Franc (OB, 95) which is rich and viscous with serious tension and herbal accents.  I absolutely love these new wines and learn more at https://www.acumenwine.com. Here are my reviews of the new Acumen Wines.

2021 Acumen ‘Mountainside’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘Mountainside’ comes mostly from their estate ‘Attelas Vineyard’ which is set at 1300 feet. Inky in the glass, this unveils loads of black currants and blackberry fruit flavors with stony minerals and tar accents on the palate. Refined and generous, with good tension and refined tannins, enjoy now and over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2039- 93

2021 Acumen ‘PEAK’ Cabernet Franc- The 2021 ‘PEAK’ Cabernet Franc is a gorgeous bottling made from famed winemaker Phillip Titus that has smaller parts Cabernet Sauvignon (14%) and Merlot (10%) blended in. This is a stunning wine with plenty of herbal tones on the palate. Rich cassis, red bell pepper, mocha and dark chocolate shavings all fill the palate alongside refined tannins and fantastic weight and tension. This offers some really good value. Drink 2024-2042- 95

Tablas Creek 'Espirit de Tablas' Vertical Tasting

It was 2004 and I was in graduate school in San Diego. I had bought tickets to a wine event and was most excited to taste the wines of Tablas Creek which were gaining international acclaim for their wine quality, blending and attention to detail. If I could go back in time I would never anticipate sitting with Tablas Creek CEO Jason Haas and visiting every four vintages of their ‘Espirit’ back to their first vintage produced in 2000. Tablas Creek was founded all the way back in 1989 as a partnership between the famed Perrin family of Chateau de Beaucastel and the Haas family who founded Vineyard Brands. Originally named ‘Esprit de Beaucastel’ for their partnership with Chateau de Beaucastel, the name was switched more than a decade ago to ‘Espirit de Tablas’ reflecting that this is a tour de force, stand alone wine from Paso Robles. The ‘Espirit’ has become one of the quintessential California Rhone-inspired wines — and wine that consistently over-delivers for the price and deftly captures the art of blending almost unlike any other red wine in its state.

Haas and I were both amazed with how the oldest wine of the tasting held, the 2000 ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ (OB, 93). At twenty-four years of age, this still had good freshness with a smooth mouthfeel and was loaded with tertiary notes with light red fruits. Another wonderful surprise was the 2004 ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ (OB, 96) which was made in a more extracted and generous style, with more new wood, but the wine was holding marvelously. Haas and I both had little doubt that the finest wine of the tasting was the absolutely thrilling 2008 ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ (OB, 98) which was seamless, dense and finesse-driven, as you could see each varietal working in clockwork precision. Despite it being early in the morning I savored several sips of this unforgettable aged California Rhone. This was quite simply an unforgettable tasting that reminds me of the incredible stability of these wines. Learn more about the famed wines of Tablas Creek at https://tablascreek.com/ and here are my reviews from an incredible vertical tasting of ‘Espirit de Tablas’ by Tablas Creek.

2020 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine- The heady and rich 2020 ‘Espirit de Tablas’ is mainly Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah with smaller parts Counoise, Vaccarese and Cinsault. This is already neatly evolved with a smooth texture displaying a dizzying core of dark fruits with tobacco leaf, stony minerals and wild herbs. While enticing now, this will surely live on for another fifteen years. If savoring now be sure to give this about an hour in the decanter. Drink 2024-2039- 95

2016 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine- The outstanding 2016 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine is similarly comprised to the 2020, made with slightly more Syrah. Right away this is very alluring in the glass, offering polished red florals with smoky character alongside dried herbs, Mandarin orange zest and dark currants. The palate is very fresh and refined with a smooth texture. The weight of the wine and chalky mineral notes are really shining. The star of the show seems to be Grenache here with its very pretty character and sweet red fruits. Gorgeous and generous now, this has another fifteen years to go. Drink 2024-2039- 96

2012 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine- The 2012 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine is nicely evolved, offering tertiary notes already with wild mushroom and bright red fruits alongside wet stone and first floor with red flowers. Beautiful and complex with a gorgeous purity of red fruit character, with smoked meats and hints of black truffle this is marvelous to consume now. Enjoy this savory beauty over the next five plus years. Drink 2024-2030- 95

2008 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ Red Wine- The 2008 ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ shows a darker core than the ‘12 and has a slightly larger portion of Syrah blended in. This is a dizzying, highly complex bottling that will sure to satisfy any lover of California Rhones. The balance and combination of red fruit, damp earth, pine needles and chalky souls in simply marvelous. The smoky and savory notes become more evident with more air, with light citrus accents. You can see each varietal working in clockwork precision here with its core a blend of 38% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache, and 26% Syrah. The weight and poise suggests this still has a very long way to go. A total stunner, enjoy over the next ten years. Drink 2024-2034- 98

2004 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ Red Wine- This 2004 ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ has a very high percentage of Mourvèdre blended in as Grenache vines were still very young at Tablas Creek. This year was the third year in a drought cycle but this was a moderately warm year. The balance and poise is beautiful here with good richness and flavor density, showing a core of rich black plum, tangerine zest and ripe boysenberry fruit flavors. This is tannic and muscular 20 year wine is absolutely rocking right now, as the new wood has allowed this to really evolve gracefully. Drink 2024-2032- 96

2000 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ Red Wine- Shockingly good at near 25 years, and still very bright, the 2000 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ combines 35% Mourvèdre and 26% Syrah with the remainder Grenache and Counoise.  It has bright tension remaining with a very pretty core of wild strawberry and guava fruit flavors alongside stony minerals and wild herbs. Consume now. Drink 2024-2028- 93

Hill of Tara

One of the outrageously good producers from Sonoma, Hill of Tara was founded by TOR general manager Danny Fay. For years Fay recognized the potential for growing world-class grapes on Moon Mountain, an AVA. This is an incredibly scenic area that is set at 2,000 feet, towering above the Sonoma Valley. The highest vineyards in the Moon Mountain District American Viticultural Area (AVA) enable clear-day views of San Francisco from 50 miles away, with skyscrapers gleaming in the southern distance. Soil types here are mainly rocky and of volcanic origin, on slopes and ridge tops of the Mayacamas Mountains.

Hill of Tara winery is named after an ancient ceremonial and burial site in Ireland. The hill is known as the inauguration place of the high kings of Ireland and it also appears in Irish mythology. The historic ground has many monuments and earthworks that date all the way back to the Neolithic and Iron Age. Danny Fay honored his Irish lineage by creating this winery that sources from a host of sites on Moon Mountain.

Winemaker Alex Kanzler has worked harvests in Central Otago, New Zealand, Dundee Hills, Oregon and Russian River Valley, CA. He has been mentored by legendary winemakers like Michael Browne, Shane Finley, and Russell Bevan. The wines are absolutely incredible across the board. I am enamored by the 2019 Hill of Tara ‘Chapter II-Ode to Tormey’ Cabernet Franc (OB, 98) which is up there with the finest Cabernet Franc from Sonoma that I have tasted. Generous, broad shouldered, very elegant, displaying a pillowy texture, this will easily be a 20 year wine. Learn more about these incredible wines at https://www.hilloftarawines.com/ and here are my reviews of the new Hill of Tara wines.

2018 Hill of Tara ‘Mountain Cuvee’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Mountain Cuvee’ has a touch more Cabernet Sauvignon (75%) than the 2019 edition. It is marvelous and soft on the mouth, with a silky texture. Layers of boysenberry preserves, mocha and scorched earth all combine with violets on the palate. Finishing long with beautiful length and underlying finesse, this is already beautifully evolved stuff that will live on for another fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2019 Hill of Tara ‘Mountain Cuvee’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Mountain Cuvee’ is composed of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Cabernet Franc. Black currants, tar and black licorice mark the nose with beautiful dark floral notes. The palate is soft, round and concentrated, with chewy tannins that frame a generous core of red and dark fruits alongside chocolate and tobacco leaf notes. Fabulous now, enjoy this beauty over the next fifteen years. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2018 Hill of Tara ‘Chapter 1-Mound of Hostages’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The wow-factor 2018 ‘Chapter 1-Mound of Hostages’ is named after the oldest visible monument on the Hill of Tara. Coming from the Moonridge Vineyard, this Cabernet Sauvignon was harvested in mid-October. The nose is utterly sensational with violet rose petals, black currants, potpourri, espresso grounds and freshly tilled loamy soils. Pillowy and soft, this effortlessly glides throughout the drinking experience. A massive wall of black and blue fruits greets you, alongside graphite, chocolate fudge and damp soil accents on the palate. Seriously good now, this will surely live on for another twenty plus years to come. But why wait? Drink 2024-2044- 98

2019 Hill of Tara ‘Chapter 1-Mound of Hostages’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Picked on a near-identical date to the 2018 bottling, the 2019 Hill of Tara ‘Chapter 1-Mound of Hostages’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an utterly stunning bottling from this outstanding vintage. This is ultra-refined across the mid-palate, with plenty of opulence, weight and underlying finesse. Layers of dark rose petal and espresso grounds combine with loamy soil, and creme de violette on the palate. Finishing very long with dense dark fruits and copious minerals, be sure to give this an hour in the decanter if savoring now. Drink 2024-2045- 98

2018 Hill of Tara ‘Chapter II-Ode to Tormey’ Cabernet Franc- The 2018 ‘Chapter II-Ode to Tormey’ Cabernet Franc is a nod to the last private landholder of the Hill of Tara and he is depicted on this label riding a white horse. The nose is downright electric with bright red florals that march on with menthol, silty soils, creme de cassis and Arabica bean notes. The palate is ultra-refined with fantastic flavor density. Silky smooth on the mouth, with fantastic herbal undertones, there isn’t a wine quite like this in Sonoma. Stunning. Give this several hours in the decanter if enjoying now, as this beauty really built momentum following a three hour decant. Drink 2024-2045- 98

2019 Hill of Tara ‘Chapter II-Ode to Tormey’ Cabernet Franc- The 2019 Hill of Tara ‘Chapter II-Ode to Tormey’ Cabernet Franc is a world-class bottling by winemaker Alex Kanzler that needs a lot of air before enjoying. Wonderfully herbal on the nose this revels in red bell pepper, alongside thyme, blackberry pie and suggestions of dark chocolate shavings. The palate is silky and refined with a seamless texture and fabulous level of freshness. A bit closed now, this can really use another year of bottle age — but it will be exceedingly hard to be patient because it is so good following three hours in the decanter. Drink 2025-2045- 98

Inniskillin

One of the prized Canadian wineries, Inniskillin has clearly played a pioneering role in establishing the Canadian wine industry. On July 31, 1975, its founders made history when they were given the first winery license in Canada since Prohibition. Inniskillin came into prominence on the global stage with its win at the 1991 Vinexpo, in Bordeaux, France, when the Vidal Icewine was awarded the highest Grand Prix d'Honneur, changing the way the world sees Canadian wine. Instrumental in developing Canada's VQA system this house is located amongst lush vineyards adjacent to the Niagara River. It is truly one of the unique visiting experiences in the world, with beautiful views of the Niagara Escarpment.

Today Inniskillin makes a wide range of wines including some world-class dessert wines. I was massively impressed with both new release Icewines that I tasted. The 2021 Inniskillin Riesling Icewine (OB, 95) is big and burly with a whopping 380G/L. Learn more at https://www.inniskillin.com/

2021 Inniskillin Riesling Icewine- This beautiful 2021 Icewine has a whopping 380G/L residual sugar. Papaya and roasted pineapple alongside juicy peach and hints of bananas foster on the palate. The tension of the wine as well as weight really drives things forward. Beautiful now, this will live on for another twenty plus years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2022 Inniskillin Cabernet Franc Icewine- Rich, heady and very dense, the 2022 Inniskillin Cabernet Franc Icewine shows off flavors of cherries jubilee, toffee, butterscotch and hints of red raspberry cordial on the palate. Its full-bodied and decadent stuff that is not for the weary. Drink 2024-2040- 95

Sleight of Hand 'The Psychedelic' Syrah Vertical Tasting

Sitting across from Sleight of Hand winemaker and partner, Trey Busch, we both relished in the moment. “I had never done a vertical going back like this” said Busch who was eager to sink his teeth into these highly complex wines from the Walla Walla Rocks District. One of the iconic wines of the Pacific Northwest, the Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah is an incredible wine that I have loved for more than a decade now. The wine comes from the Stoney Vine Vineyard in the Rocks District, as this site is set on ancient cobblestones. Immediately, Trey and his team wanted to make a wine with minimal intervention from this stony site.

“We have never wanted to use a lot of new wood on the wines. There is no reason to mask the Rocks character and by not using a lot of new oak we can really see the nuances of the wines. Tasting this wine compared to the Funkadelic which is bigger, this wine is made more in a pretty style.” Grapes at this vineyard are picked “earlier and we are more comfortable at 23 Brix but not at 25 Brix which was my style back in the early 2000s.”

In terms of using stem inclusion Busch noted “I had been making Syrah but had never worked with the Rocks before. Rich Funk came to us in 2009 and asked if we would be interested in making Rocks District Syrah and I jumped at the chance. For me when I was thinking of the wines that people admired, it would be ‘What would Christophe [Baron] do?’ And knowing that he’s French, I just assumed he was using stems in his ferments. I’m also a huge fan of the wines from Allemand in Cornas, and those wines see a ton of whole cluster as well.  So we experimented with that first vintage in 2009 and loved what we tasted. When we started making the Psychedelic in 2013, we had a few years of making rocks wines under our belts, and became more and more comfortable with additional stem inclusion. Today we’re around 60-70% whole cluster on the Psychedelic. It increases the structure and mouthfeel on these high pH wines, especially in warmer vintages like 2013-2015, and 2021.”

Tasting through the wines there were several clear highlights. First was the initial wine made from the 2013 vintage — a wine that had tremendous tension despite the heat of the vintage. The 2014 ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah (OB, 95) is a fabulous effort that is very savory and complex. No reason to cellar this beauty. I was enamored by the bigger and more heady 2016 ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah (OB, 96) which is highly complex stuff that is really peaking right now. Equally good was the world-class 2018 ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah (OB, 96) which is a deep and concentrated bottling that will surely live on for another decade. Busch and I concluded our tasting with the stunning 2021 (OB, 96) which is beautifully youthful and vibrant — one with so much potential. This was truly a tasting to remember. Learn more about these incredible wines at https://www.sofhcellars.com/ and here are my reviews of the 2013-2021 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah.

2013 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- The 2013 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah is a 250 case production wine that was 50% whole cluster fermented and saw only 10% new French oak for 11 months before bottling. The palate is very seamless and nicely structured despite the heat of the vintage. The finesse and Umami character really shines in this wine that offers bacon fat, green olives, and white pepper alongside pretty red and dark fruits. Drink 2024-2039- 95

2014 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- Slightly more wine was made in the 2014 vintage (360 cases), as this was stored in 16% new French oak and also saw 50% whole cluster fermentation. Mandarin orange zest alongside green peppercorns, smoked pork shoulder and shades of black rose petals all mark the nose. The palate is deep, voluptuous and very concentrated, with a seamless sense of mouthfeel and texture. This is really in its sweet spot. Drink 2024-2032- 96

2015 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- Coming from this record hot vintage, the 2015 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah is already nicely evolved now at the nine year mark. Hoisin sauce and savory notes mark the nose alongside smoldering stones. The wine is still very fresh. This lacks some of the complexity of the first two wines but is drinking very well now. Drink 2024-2029- 93

2016 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- The heady and rich 2016 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah is a head-turning Syrah that was stored in 25% new French oak before bottling. The nose is absolutely outstanding with beautiful Umami character alongside white pepper dusted bacon, bulls blood, Nori, green peppercorns and suggestions of wild blackberry. The palate is very fresh and refined with a seamless texture, showing glorious length. Rich and viscous with loads of mouth-watering acidity, this is right in its sweet spot. Drink 2024-2032- 96

2017 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- Only 70 cases were made of this gorgeous 2017 Syrah that saw 50% whole cluster fermentation. Oyster sauce, and black truffle shavings mark the nose alongside boysenberry notes and black peppercorns. The palate is soft and refined with bright acidity and loads of exotic spice with enoki mushroom notes. A touch leaner and more linear than the 2016, don’t be afraid to pop the cork on this beauty. Drink 2024-2029- 94

2018 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- From this downright epic vintage, the 2018 2016 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah. 600 cases made of this beautiful wine stored in 23% new French oak prior to bottling. Umami, beef drippings, roasted figs, and smoked brisket notes mark the nose alongside a light dusting of white pepper. The palate is loaded with savory notes, alongside sweet pipe tobacco, boysenberry, black tea and a seamless texture. Showing a fantastic combination of bright acidity, weight and length, this is a total heavyhitter of a wine that is marvelous to enjoy now. Drink 2024-2032- 96

2019 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- The cold vintage 2019 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah is a gorgeous effort that is showing marvelously now at the five year mark. The wine was picked over an entire month. Stored in 33% new French oak, once on the nose this takes on pink peppercorns and red florals combine with red currants and shades of soy sauce. The palate is soft and approachable with beautiful poise, showing great non-fruit character with charcuterie, peppered bacon and green olive tapenade. This is showing marvelous now. Drink 2024-2030- 95

2020 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- The 2020 ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah is a really great wine from a tough vintage. 500 cases were made of this stony and savory wine that was 15% new French oak before bottling. Smoky and savory with a smooth mouthfeel, this is drinking marvelously right now. Black olive notes with creosote, black licorice and peppered bacon all fill the mouth with enjoyment. Drink 2024-2028- 93

2021 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah- A follow up to the really good 2020 edition, the 2021 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah was sourced from the famed Stoney Vine Vineyard in the Walla Walla Rocks District. For my palate this is up there with the 2018 as the finest edition ever made of this wine. Soft, sultry and seamless on the mouth, this greets you with a literal cornucopia of flavors, while maintaining bright underlying finesse. Black olive tapenade, wet gravel, mortadella, black raspberry, black truffle shavings and bulls blood flavors all marvelously combine with blood orange zest accents. This is simply a marvelous, warm vintage wine that is already expressing itself in all its splendor. Drink 2024-2032- 96

2021 Sleight of Hand ‘The Illusionist Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘The Illusionist’ is a refined blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot that was sourced from estate blocks at the Blue Mountain, Red Mountain, and Phinny Hill Vineyards. Stored for 20 months in 60% new French oak, this delivers pure drinking pleasure with its core of cassis and black cherry fruit flavors alongside mocha, tar, pipe tobacco and black licorice flavors. Refined and elegant with its sleek mouthfeel, and great sense of length, enjoy now and over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2038- 94

2021 Sleight of Hand ‘The Archimage Reserve’ Red Wine- The Right Bank-inspired 2021 Sleight of Hand ‘The Archimage Reserve’ Red Wine is a silky blend of 54% Cabernet Franc with the reminder Merlot mostly sourced from the Biurnal Block at the Blue Mountain Vineyard. This is very seamless once on the mouth, with a great sense of texture, weight and bright underlying acidity. Salty accents combine with pure red fruits, menthol, and red bell pepper flavors on the palate. Dense and heady in its youth, give this an hour in the decanter if savoring now. Drink 2024-2040- 94

Doubleback

Following yesterday’s Super Bowl of epic proportions, we bring you a famed range of wines from a former all-pro quarterback. Doubleback was founded by NFL legend, Drew Bledsoe and his wife, Maura. The story completes itself as Drew circled back following his brilliant NFL career. Originally from Walla Walla, he was a star at Walla Walla High School before his illustrious tenure at Washington State University. For many years Drew had visions of starting his own winery for many years and going back to Walla Walla was the perfect choice for him. During his years in the NFL he continued to expand his palate, trying various wines of the world. But there was something special about wines from his home state, as he grew to love the balance of the wines of this region that weren’t old world but also weren’t Napa. It was back in 2007 that Drew returned to Walla Walla to plant his estate vineyard, McQueen on the southern end of the Walla Walla Valley AVA.

It has now been more than fifteen years that Doubleback was born and in 2008 Drew began focusing on using top estate fruit to make incredible Cabernet Sauvignon from the Walla Walla Valley. He needed a top class winemaker and connected with childhood friend and superstar winemaker, Chris Figgins, of Leonetti Cellar, who served as consulting winemaker until Josh McDaniels assumed the role in 2015. Josh is one of the finest talents in the state. The wines that he has made are consistently great, year after year and he has a fantastic winemaking team behind him.

I think for my palate the finest Doubleback Cab that has been yet produced, the 2021 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 97) is a simply marvelous effort that is already drinking beautifully now. I also am enamored by the 2021 Doubleback ‘Reserve’ Red Wine (OB, 99) which is massive and intense, with incredible aging potential.  Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.doubleback.com/ and here are my reviews of the gorgeous new 2024 spring release wines by Doubleback.

2021 Bledsoe Family Winery ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The really good 2021 Bledsoe Family Winery ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes up really inky in the glass. This is concentrated and beautifully textured wine that is standing tall at the entry level. Dark currants, Turkish coffee grounds, tar and shades of garrigue all beautifully meld together on the palate. Full-bodied and shining brightly even at the two year mark, enjoy this beautiful wine for another ten to twelve years — or potentially more. Drink 2024-2035- 93

2022 Doubleback Merlot- Unlike the 2019 bottling, this is not a 100% varietal Doubleback Merlot as this blends in 8% Cabernet Franc. Sourced from the McQueen and Schafer Vineyards, the wine was stored in 60% new French oak for sixteen months before bottling. Right away this offers alluring Morello cherry and Asian spices alongside roasted figs and espresso ground flavors. The palate is soft and refined with a smooth texture and fantastic sense of weight. Mouth-watering acidity greets you, alongside rich dark fruits, with refined tannins and a silky mouthfeel. Finishing long with chocolate, sage and dense dark fruits, this is remarkably evolved considering its youth.  Try to give this an hour of air prior to consuming and enjoy over the next fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2024-2038- 95

2019 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon- A total stunner, the 2021 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon is a ultra-refined blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon with 10% Malbec and smaller portions Merlot and Petit Verdot that was sourced from the McQueen, LaFore, and Schafer vineyards. This was stored in a combination of 74% new French. Oak, Italian concrete and neutral oak barrels before bottling in August 2023. Remarkably perfumed once poured, this offers espresso grounds, tar and sagebrush notes on the nose with suggestions of graphite and freshly tilled loamy soils. The palate is soft and refined with fantastic power and flavor density. Firm tannins frame a gorgeous core of black fruits alongside Turkish coffee, anise and creme de cassis, this is one of the finest editions of this wine ever produced. If savoring in its full-throttle youth, give this an hour or two in the decanter to fully unwind. This total heavyhitter of a wine will easily live on for another twenty years. Drink 2024-2045- 98

2021 Doubleback ‘Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Reserve’ Red Wine is a monumental effort from this great vintage for red wines in Washington State. Aged in all new French oak, this has a large portion of Merlot (14%) blended in, as well as 7% Malbec. Inky in the glass, this is heady and opulent on the mouth, loaded with creme de violette and creosote notes alongside pencil lead, black currant jelly and suggestions of Black Forest cake. Wait for the exceedingly long finish with black and blue fruits and stony minerals. Dazzling in its underlying finesse and flavor density, this flirts with perfection and is truly one of a kind stuff that will age for at least another twenty years to come. Drink 2025-2050- 99

Delas

One of the great houses in the Northern Rhone, Delas was founded back in 1835. Although the Delas family has been making wine since 1835 in the Rhône Valley, it was not until 1924 that they took the current name of the estate. In 1993, the Rouzaud family, owners of Louis Roederer, acquired both Delas Frères and Champagne Deutz. Since 1996, the Rouzaud family has made important investments in the Saint-Jean-de-Muzols production site near Tournon-sur-Rhône. They have revamped their production facility and cellars to make modernizations. Delas now makes a huge range of wines all the way from the Ventoux in southern France, as well as Chateauneuf du Pape but they are best known for their wines from Cote Rotie and Hermitage.

I was massively impressed with their red and white wine releases across the board. Look to their 2017 Delas ‘Chante-Pedrix’ Cornas (OB, 94) which is rich, and dense, loaded with heady dark fruits and non-fruit nuance. Learn more about these incredible wines at https://www.delas.com/en/ and here are my reviews of the exceptional new Delas wines.

2021 Delas ‘Clos Boucher’ Condrieu- Soft and round on the mouth, the 2021 Delas ’Clos Boucher’ Condrieu offers ripe peaches and white grapefruit flavors alongside serious tension and a smooth mouthfeel on the palate. Finishing long with honeysuckle water, passion fruit and shades of lychee, this generous, well-structured bottling is already drinking marvelously Drink 2024-2032- 93

2020 Delas ‘Francois De Tournon’ Saint-Joseph- The 2020 Delas Saint-Joseph "Francois de Tournon" is a blend of grapes from the terroirs of Vion, Saint-Jean de Muzols, Mauves and Tournon. Iron, bulls blood and iodine flavors combine with tart black raspberry and black cherry notes on the palate, with pencil lead undercurrents. Neatly textured, enjoy now and over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2039- 93

2020 Delas ‘Chante-Perdrix’ Cornas- The 2020 Delas ‘Chante-Perdrix’ Cornas is inky in the glass, with fantastic concentration and underlying finesse. A bit tight to get going, this delivers copious dark fruit flavors alongside violets, graphite, tar and creme de cassis notes with dark chocolate shavings on the palate. Fresh and vibrant, this is going to age gracefully. Drink 2024-2039- 94

2020 Delas ‘La Landonne’ Cote-Rotie- Coming from this hallowed site, the 2020 Delas ‘La Landonne’ Cote-Rotie was stored in used French oak for 14 months before bottling. The nose is a literal cornocpiia of aromatics from white pepper dusted bacon to beautiful black rose petals, anise, exotic spices and suggestions of Earl Grey tea alongside dense dark fruits. The palate is plush and soft with serious verve and glorious length. This will easily go for another twenty years to come. Give this total stunner an hour in the decanter if consuming now. Drink 2024-2044- 96

2020 Delas ‘Les Bessards’ Hermitage- The stunning 2020 Delas ‘Les Bessards’ Hermitage is a collection of the oldest sites from the ‘Les Bessards’ as this is limited to a maximum of six thousand bottles each year. This beauty shows off a voluptuous mouthfeel with serious tension and minerality. Layers of boysenberry and coffee grounds ingle well with iodine, wet granite and shades of creme de violette on the palate. Highly enjoyable in its heady youth, give this some time in the decanter if consuming young. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2020 Delas ‘Les Grandes Vignes’ Hermitage- This incredible 2020 Hermitage comes from a plot of land at the top of the Hermitage hillside, set at more than 300 meters. Once on the nose this takes on layers of dark currants and red peppercorns alongside wet stone and suggestions of Asian spices. The palate is soft and refined as soft tannins frame a beautiful core of black fruit flavors alongside black licorice, white pepper and salty minerals. Enjoy this head-turning wine now and over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 95

Sojourn Cellars

One of the great stops in Sonoma, Sojourn Cellars has been creating outstanding Pinot Noir and Chardonnay now for more than two decades. It all dates back to 2001 when two tennis friends–Craig Haserot and Erich Bradley–who shared a passion for two things: great wine and tennis. With Erich’s experience as an Assistant Winemaker at Arrowood Winery, the two developed a plan to produce small bottlings of Cabernet Sauvignon from outstanding vineyard sources. They began with a hundred cases of Cabernet Sauvignon that they sold to our friends and family. Today they produce 21 different wines and have customers worldwide. Last spring I had a chance to taste some older bottlings and was particularly impressed with how well their Chardonnay cellars. Their 2012 Chards were incredible!

The new wines I tasted come from the 2022 vintage which was somewhat tricky to navigate due to intense heat at harvest. These were beautiful wines with serious stuffing and texture. Don’t miss out on the world-class 2022 Sojourn ‘Gap’s Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 96) which is big and burly with serious salty soil character from this amazing site that neighbors the Pacific Ocean. Learn more about these great wines at sojourn cellars.com and here are my reviews of the beautiful new release wines by Sojourn Cellars.

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay- The 2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay comes from several sites in this windswept AVA that neighbors the Pacific Ocean. On the nose this takes on peach and saline drenched pear notes alongside brioche and salted Macadamia nut. The palate is plush and soft with a refined texture, and great sense of elegance. Finishing exceedingly long with vanilla cream and salted melon fruits, this is an outstanding 2022 bottling that will provide drinking enjoyment over the next eight plus years to come. Drink 2024-2032- 94

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The Sangiacomo Vineyard is located in the Sonoma Coast AVA. The palate is soft and rich with great flavor density and weight. Rich Meyer lemon cream combines with toasted hazelnut, buttered French bread and shades of Pink Lady apple on the palate. Rich and polished, this is delicious wine that is already drinking beautifully. Drink 2024-2032- 94

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Petaluma Gap’ Pinot Noir- The 2022 ‘Petaluma Gap’ Pinot Noir comes from a range of sites in this new AVA. Cranberry and cola notes combine on the nose with freshly tilled damp soils. The palate is rich and beautifully ytrxturtd with good weight and underlying verve. A fantastic core of red fruits greet you on the palate, alongside citrus zest, tobacco leaf and shades of wet stone. Bright and fresh, enjoy this lively new Pinot Noir bottling no and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2024-2034- 94

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Nightwing Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Owned by MacRostie, the Nightwing Vineyard is set on a hillside at 1200 feet. This wine is very juicy, round and downright delicious. Cola and cran-orange flavors collide with underbrush and freshly tilled salty soils on the palate. Complex and delicious, this is going to be really popular with any lover of top notch Sonoma Pinot Noir. Great now, enjoy over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2024-2037- 95

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir- This 2022 Pinot Noir comes form the Sonoma Coast AVA. On the nose this exudes class with menthol and red rose petals alongside cran-ornage notes. The palate is soft and rich with a smooth texture. Bright red fruits parade with salty soils and Mandarin orange rind flavors on the palate. Drink 2024-2034- 93

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Rodgers Creek Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2022 ‘Rodgers Creek Vineyard’ sits high on a ridge in the Sonoma Coast AVA. This is rich and viscous Pinot Noir with serious focus and underlying tension. Rich cranberry and wild blackberry fruit flavors mingle well with freshly tilled soils and suggestions of bay leaf on the palate. Finishing long this dense and chewy bottling is already showing beautifully. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Gap’s Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- For years I have admired wines for the famed ‘Gap’s Crown Vineyard’ — a site that straddles the Pacific Ocean. This 2022 edition is arguably the finest Pinot Noir wine that I have tasted from Sojourn. On the nose this shows off salty red fruits alongside sea salt dusted blood orange zest, tobacco and shades of crushed wet rock. The palate is soft and inviting with a smooth texture and a dense core of salty mineral-laden guava, strawberry and red cherry fruit flavors. Quite simply a joy to drink now, enjoy this savory and salty Pinot Noir over the next fifteen years to come. This one literally screams terroir. Drink 2024-2040- 96

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The Sangiacomo Vineyard is a cool, windswept site located in the Sonoma Coast AVA. This is juicy with its pomegranate seed and guava fruit flavors that mingle well with red cherry, kumquat and stony minerals on the palate. Finishing long with red fruits and copious minerals, this is a beautiful new bottling that will cellar well for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2024-2040- 94

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Wohler Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This outstanding 2022 Pinot Noir comes from the Wohler Vineyard which is centered in the middle of the Russian River Valley and set on Goldridge soils. The wine has outstanding finesse with a very juicy core of red fruits that parade with damp soils, cigar box, and shades of wet rock on the palate. Inviting now, this will surely live on for another fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2039- 95

2022 Sojourn Cellars ‘Walala Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This magical new 2022 Pinot Noir bottling comes from this site neighboring the Pacific Ocean. It is very salty and intense with dark raspberry and black cherry flavors that combine with salty soils, wet stone and suggestions of Satsuma orange zest on the palate. Full-bodied, with a great mineral backbone, this is both dense and well-structured wine that will easily live on for another ten plus years. Drink 2024-2039- 95

2021 Sojourn Cellars ‘Stagecoach Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- For years I have admired Cabernets from this high elevation site that overlooks the Napa Valley. The wine is brooding and deep, showing off beautiful black florals in the glass, alongside freshly tilled rocky soils, cigar box, black currants and shades of espresso grounds. The palate is soft and seamless, with serious verve and a pillowy texture. The amalgamation of freshness and weight works beautifully here, as this is already drinking marvelously in its heady youth. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2021 Sojourn Cellars ‘Atlas Peak’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2021 Sojourn Cellars ‘Atlas Peak’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from two sites in this district. It comes off rich and viscous with layers of dark currants, coffee grounds and dark chocolate shavings on the palate, alongside plenty of stony minerals. Finishing long with black fruits and lovely weight, enjoy this outstanding bottling over the next fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2021 Sojourn Cellars ‘Home Ranch Cuvee’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Home Ranch Cuvee’ comes from this southwestern Sonoma County site which was planted by Sojourn founder Craig Haserot in 2002. This is heady and concentrated Sonoma Cabernet with cassis, mocha, tar and shades of violets on the nose. The palate has a smooth mouthfeel, with plenty of tension and finesse alongside the core of black and blue fruits. With more air milk chocolate and espresso ground flavors add to the enjoyment, as this well-structured beauty will cellar well for another twenty years to come — yet is irresistible in its youth. Drink 2024-2040- 94

2021 Sojourn Cellars ‘Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This beautiful wine comes from this Rutherford site that was first planted in 1895 by Mrs. Thomas Rutherford. This 300-acre parcel first purchased by Beaulieu founder Georges de Latour in 1928 and called Beaulieu Vineyard Number 3. Inky in the glass, this offers an opulent texture once on the mouth. Layers of creme de cassis, anise, graphite, creme de violette, tar and allspice dusted black cherry all brilliantly combine on the palate, with loamy soil accents. A joy to drink now in its full-throttle youth, enjoy this brilliant new wine now and over the next twenty plus years to come. Drink 2024-2044- 96