Cellar Selection: 2014 Bodega LAN 'A Mano' Rioja

CeToday we share one of the jewels of Spain.  A great winery to visit in La Rioja, Bodegas LAN was founded in 1972. LAN is an acronym based on the initials of each of the three provinces that form the D.O.Ca. Rioja: Logroño (currently part of La Rioja), Alava and Navarra. Their oak program is particularly interesting as French, American, Russian and hybrid barrels (American staves and French oak heads built in the same barrel) are utilized in the blending. Bodegas LAN’s estate Viña Lanciano Vineyard parallels the Ebro river and is set on 72 hectares. Having visited the property a few years back it is hard to describe the beauty of the land. Grapes for their premium bottlings, the Viña Lanciano, the LAN A Mano and the Culmen. The vineyard has 24 plots, and is planted to Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Graciano and Garnacha vines, aged on average up to 60 years. During harvest grapes are hand-harvested and once in the winery, bunches and grains are individually selected by hand prior to fermentation.

Their top wine is the ‘A Mano’ which is a barrel selection wine that is powerful and dense. It is an unabashedly modern style of Rioja. I love the 2014 ‘A Mano’ (OB, 95) which is dense and chewy with gobs of dense dark fruits. Learn more about Bodegas LAN at http://www.bodegaslan.com Here is my review of the Bodegas LAN ‘A Mano’ from 2014.

2014 Bodega LAN ‘A Mano’ Rioja- The 2014 ‘A Mano’ is a masterpiece from this challenging vintage in La Rioja. Now at the ten year mark this beauty is right at its peak — and still has a long way to go. A lush mouthfeel and beautiful tension greets you upon entry, showing dense boysenberry and black currant fruit flavors, with hints of menthol and milk chocolate. Broad-shouldered and generous, consume this beauty over the next ten plus years. Drink 2024-2034- 95

Clarice Wine Company

Today we share the brilliant wines of Adam Lee and Clarice Wine Company. Adam Lee has been making Pinot Noir for 25 years from Oregon to the Santa Rita Hills. A unique winery project, Clarice Wine Company has a membership of over 600 people. As part of their community members have the chance to interact with each other, sharing wine opinions and wine list guidance, as well as recommendations for wine travel, restaurants, hotels, events and more.

Lee caught the wine bug while in Texas working in wine sales in the 1990s. Fast forward to 1994 he and his wife  founded Siduri which became one of the state’s top producers of Pinot Noir. Their brand grew from 107 cases in 1994 to 25,000 cases in 2015 when they sold to Jackson Family Wines.

Clarice Wine Company is named after Lee’s grandmother who was his closest friend growing up. The wines are sourced from top sites in the Santa Lucia Highlands. Check out the world-class 2023 Clarice Wine Company ‘Rosella’s Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 96) which is dense and salty with serious underlying tension. Learn more about this outstanding wine project at https://claricewinecompany.com/ and here are my reviews of the new wines by Clarice and winemaker Adam Lee.

2023 Clarice Wine Company ‘Santa Lucia Highlands’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 ‘Santa Lucia Highlands’ comes from the famed Rosella’s and Gary’s Vineyards, as this was stored in mainly neutral oak barrels before bottling. Deeply colored in the glass, this delivers red florals alongside damp soils, black cherry compote and shades of cloves on the nose. The palate is fresh with serious verve that combines with the rich mouthfeel. A generous and layered Pinot Noir, enjoy this beauty now and over the next ten years. Drink 2024-2034- 94

2023 Clarice Wine Company ‘Rosella’s Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The astonishingly good 2023 Clarice Wine Company ‘Rosella’s Vineyard’ Pinot Noir comes from this 50 acre site set on the benchlands of the Santa Lucia Mountain Range. Owners Gary and Rosella Franscioni planted the vineyard in 1996. This is concentrated and flavorful Pinot Noir that is delightful to consume in its tension-laden youth. Cola and red currants combine with shades of red licorice and sandy soils on the nose. The palate is big and rich with serious verve. A delight to savor now, enjoy over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2024-2038- 96

2023 Clarice Wine Company ‘Gary’s Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 Clarice Wine Company ‘Gary’s Vineyard’ Pinot Noir comes from this  nearly 30 year old, 50+ acre vineyard that was named after partners Gary Franscioni and Gary Pisoni. Deeply fragrant, this shows off lavender and loganberry notes on the nose alongside shades of diatomaceous soils. The palate is soft and refined with a silky texture and generous core of red and black fruits. Salty and very savory, this is a world-class Pinot Noir that is built to age. Drink 2024-2038- 96

Moret-Brealynn

Today we share the great new wines of Moret-Brealynn. This is a new brand which was founded back in 2021. Moret Brealynn is a California born Mexican-American who started in hospitality at the tasting rooms of Silver Oak Cellars and Twomey. She then took a marketing position at Kosta Browne where she organized all winemaker and principal involvement in national and local events. She spent the next five years at HALL Family Wines and managed the Hall's book, A Perfect Score. Morét managed multiple departments and companies to propel the book to the New York Times Bestsellers List (#11, so good it got number one twice) along with 40+ events for the book tour. Through that role, she formed a strong connection with Vintner Kathryn Walt Hall and at the end of the project, became Kathryn's Executive Assistant. Morét became the Happy Hour Show Producer for the company's multiple social channels. This role expanded to being able to meet and work with A-List talent from Tina Fey, the cast of Schitt's Creek, Julia Louis-Dreyfus, Martin Short, countless athletes, musicians, and other inspiring individuals. In that group, Morét met Adam Lee, co-founder of Siduri Wines and owner and winemaker for Clarice and Beau Marchais. Adam was impressed with the professionalism and organization of the show and after further discussions, Morét joined him as his General Manager. Morét's exposure to the production side of the wine industry grew and her passion for making her own wine.

Through Adam, Morét met Jim Pratt, who manages vineyards around Sonoma County, including Lakeview Vineyard in Russian River Valley. Jim offered her the opportunity to source four tons of Pinot Noir for her first vintage in 2021. Morét Brealynn now produces Pinot Noir from this vineyard, along with two Appellation Pinot Noirs. Morét is also a Board Member of Wine Women, a non profit focused on connecting women in the wine industry. Her new wines were really good. I love the 2023 Moret-Brealynn ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir (OB, 92) which is fresh with plenty of texture. Learn more at https://moretbrealynnwines.com/morét-brealynn and here are my reviews of the new Moret-Brealynn wines.

2023 Moret-Brealynn ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from this site that neighbors the Pacific Ocean, the 2023 ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir opens with a bouquet of salty red fruits and orange rind alongside bergamot and white truffle shavings. The palate is fresh and delicious with a smooth texture. Generous and wonderfully salty, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2023 Moret-Brealynn ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir- Packed full of flavor, the 2023 Moret-Brealynn ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir offers juicy cranberry and cola notes on the palate with allspice and dried herbal accents. Medium to full-bodied and full of life, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2024-2032- 91

2023 Moret-Brealynn ‘Lakeview Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 ‘Lakeview Vineyard’ comes from two different clonal selections, as this underwent a small portion of whole cluster fermentation before bottling. Rich and generous on the mouth, this offers black cherry and black raspberry flavors with freshly tilled salty soils on the palate. Delicious and showing a soft texture and good underlying finesse, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2024-2032- 92

Lachini

Today we share the great wines of Lachini. It was 2001 when Ron and Marianne Lachini decided to take the plunge and locate in the Chehalem Mountains AVA to showcase wines from this special, terroir-driven location. Lachini produces a wide range of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that show wonderful terroir and poise. Ron Lachini is one of the great personalities in Oregon wine. A down to earth guy, he is passionate about producing great Pinot Noir from his vineyard. Lachini has tasting rooms in both Oregon and Woodinville. The wines that they have made from Washington are also seriously good.

At the helm is winemaker Florent Merlier who joined Lachini in 2022. I adored the 2021 Lachini Vineyards ‘Prima’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) which is a world-class wine from this warm vintage. Learn more about this great Oregon winery at https://www.lachinivineyards.com Here are the great new release wines by Lachini Vineyards.

2019 Lachini Brut Rose Sparkling Wine- The 2019 Brut Rose has the faintest salmon hue. A soft mousse and effervescence, this leads with pastry crust and banana with macadamia nut notes on the nose alongside shades of red raspberry. The palate is big and round with a generous mouthfeel and beautiful sense of tension. Salty and delicious, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2024-2032- 93

2023 Lachini ‘Estate’ Chardonnay- Coming from their estate vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains, the 2023 Chardonnay offers poached pear and shades of ripe pineapple on the nose with vanilla cream. The palate is soft and elegant with a smooth texture and good sense of minerality. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2024-2031- 92

2022 Lachini ‘Cuvee Giselle’ Pinot Noir- The excellent 2022 ‘Cuvee Giselle’ was sourced from the Chehalem Mountain AVA. This comes off soft and generous with rich Bing cherry and red raspberry flavors that combine with salty minerals, orange peel and suggestions of fresh sage. Delicious now, enjoy over the next eight plus years to come. Drink 2024-2034- 93

2023 Lachini ‘Le Sorelilni’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 Lachini ‘Le Sorelilni’ Pinot Noir is sourced from Swan, Wadenswil and Dijon clonal selections throughout the Willamette Valley. Stored in 60% new French oak, this offers a generous mouthfeel. Loaded with bright red fruits, tobacco leaf and salty minerals, this is a beautiful and bright, mineral-driven Pinot Noir that will satisfy for at least another decade. Drink 2024-2034- 93

2022 Lachini ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir-  A gorgeous follow up to the dazzling 2021, the 2022  'Estate’ Pinot Noir combines Pommard, Wädenswil, Dijon 113, 114, 115, 667, 777 and a 'suitcase clone' (L.T.)  This is lithe and polished stuff with a smooth mouthfeel. Generous red fruits mingle well with orange zest and shades of black truffle. The salty soil nuance adds to the enjoyment as this outstanding bottling is best consumed now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2024-2036- 94

2023 Lachini  ‘La Cruz Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 ‘La Cruz’ Pinot Nor comes from this site in the Sonoma Coast AVA that neighbors the Pacific Ocean. Salty pomegranate seed and kumquat zest flavors combine with crushed wet rock and shades of Yakima cherry on the palate. Rich and delicious, enjoy now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2024-2034- 93

2021 Lachini ‘Prima’ Pinot Noir- A limited production bottling, the 2021 ‘Prima’ is a world-class bottling that is up there with the finest wines made from this estate. The Pinot Noir combines Dijon clone 115, Dijon clone 116, Pommard clone and Waidenswil selections. This is bold and seamless wine that offers a great core of black and red fruits, with volcanic earth and gobs of salty character. Full-bodied, beautifully speaking to the vintage, with herbal undertones, enjoy now and over the next fifteen years. Drink 2024-2039- 95

2022 Lachini ‘La Bestia’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Made from vines sourced from the Quintessence, Red Willow and Boushey Vineyards, this was stored in a combination of American and French oak before bottling. This is deep and concentrated stuff with dark licorice, black currants, and shades of Black Forest cake flavors. Showing good tension and a smooth mouthfeel, with pencil lead accents, enjoy now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2024-2039- 93

2022 Lachini ‘La Contrada’ Red Wine- The 2022 ‘La Contrada’ combines 50% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder equal parts Merlot and Malbec. This is big and bold stuff with a terrific sense of richness, tension and flavor density. Rich dark fruits parade with shades of dark chocolate shavings and creme de violette with tar accents. Full-bodied, this is absolutely ready to be enjoyed now. Drink 2024-2036- 93

Colene Clemens

In his youth Joe Stark had ambitions of someday owning his own business. He worked in his father's small cabinet shop and learned about business from his father. In 1980 his wife Vicki and he were able to fulfill his dream by founding Colene Clemens, named after Vicki’s mother. Colene Clemens was created right in their own backyard, as their property had the correct aspect (south facing), elevations (350ft to 650 ft) and an array of high quality, proven Pinot Noir soils to start their winery.

Winemaker Steve Goff is originally from Philadelphia and moved to San Francisco. Steve became fascinated with winemaking, eventually graduating from the Enology and Viticulture program at Fresno State University and he worked his way to the position of Assistant Winemaker at Beaux Frères. After working six vintages at Beaux Frères, he joined Joe and Vicki Stark in 2008 as the Winemaker and Vineyard Manager for Colene Clemens. Steve’s new wines from the 2021vintage are really outstanding across the board. I love the new 2021 Colene Clemens ‘Margo’ Pinot Noir (OB, 92) which is a killer value with plenty of depth. Even better is the fantastic 2021 Colene Clemens ‘Adriane’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which shows outstanding flavor range right now. Learn more about these outstanding wines at coleneclemens.com and here are my reviews of the new wines by Colene Clemens and winemaker Steve Goff.

2021 Colene Clemens ‘Margo’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2021 ‘Margo’ offers dense red raspberry and ash notes alongside black tea and shades of Linzer torte. The palate is soft and refined with a silky texture and good sense of length. Medium to full-bodied, enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2024-2034- 92

2021 Colene Clemens ‘Victoria’ Pinot Noir-The 2021 ‘Victoria’ is a gorgeous bottling that is drinking beautifully right now. Kirsch and black raspberry notes combine with salty and stony accents on the nose. The palate is soft and initing with a smooth mouthfeel. Showing beautifully right now, enjoy over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2024-2034- 93

2021 Colene Clemens ‘Adriane’ Pinot Noir-Coming form the Chehalem Mountains AVA, the 2021 Colene Clemens ‘Adriane’ Pinot Noir shows beautiful depth, tension and richness from this warm vintage. Wet stone and damp earthy accents mark this wine that shows a gorgeous core of red and black fruit flavors with excellent verve.Drink 2024-2034- 93

2022 Colene Clemens ‘Dopp Creek’ Pinot Noir- A stunning wine from their Chehalem Mountains estate, the 2022 ‘Dopp Creek’ offers pretty red rose petals that mingle well with allspice dusted red cherry and pomegranate seed notes. The palate is soft and inviting with good verve and a smooth texture. Finishing long with copious minerals and rich red fruits with orange peel, this is a beautiful effort that is drinking marvelously right now. Drink 2024-2036- 93

Chateau Pichon Baron

Today we share one of the outstanding houses on the Left Bank. Château Pichon Longueville Baron was classified as one of fifteen Deuxièmes Crus (Second Growths) in the original 1855 Bordeaux wine classification. Pichon Baron was once part of a larger estate, owned by Pierre de Rauzan and alongside Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. The estate was then divided in 1850 into the two current Pichon estates. While quality remained not as strong as its neighbor, a big change came in 1987 when the estate was bought by a French insurance company AXA which transformed the quality of the wines. Jean-Michel Causes of Chateau Lynch-Bages became the winery administrator which greatly improved quality of this historic estate.

The winery has 73 hectares which are largely planted to Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot (40%) with smaller portions Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot with average vine age at 30 years. The vineyard is situated at the southern end of the commune of Pauillac near border with the Saint-Julien-Beychevelle appellation. Current winemaker, Alexandra Lebossé, joined Château Pichon Baron in 1999 as assistant technical director and then cellar master since 2007, she became winemaker in 2017.

I have been enchanted by these wines, particularly those from the mid-90s and on. I love where the 2016 Chateau Pichon Baron (OB, 96) is at right now. This beauty has at least 20 years of life left. Check out the  2023 Chateau Pichon Baron ‘Les Griffons de Pichon Baron’ Grand Vin Sec White Wine (OB, 92) which is a beautiful Bordeaux blanc with a smooth mouthfeel and great underling tension. Learn more about this famed chateau at https://www.pichonbaron.com Here are my reviews of the recently Chateau Pichon Baron wines.

2023 Chateau Pichon Baron ‘Les Griffons de Pichon Baron, Grand Vin Sec White wine- This is a new wine by Pichon Baron that is 100% Semillon coming from estate vines set on a limestone bedrock. It is smooth and elegant on the mouth with gooseberry, toasted hazelnut and cantaloupe flavors alongside a soft texture. Inviting and round, with good underlying tension, enjoy now and over the next seven years. Drink 2024-2031- 92

2016 Chateau Pichon Baron- The 2016 Chateau Pichon Baron is composed of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Merlot. Green herbs combine with black currants, black raspberry and stony soils on the palate. The tannins have softened since I have last tasted this beauty. Medium to full-bodied and impeccably balanced, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next twenty years. Give this at least an hour of air if enjoying now. Drink 2025-2045- 96

Orin Swift

Today we present the bolder side of California wine. It all started back in 1995 when on a lark, David Swift Phinney took a friend up on an offer and went to Florence, Italy to spend a semester “studying”. During that time, he was introduced to wine, and he later landed a job at Robert Mondavi Winery in 1997 as a temporary harvest worker. In 1998 he founded Orin Swift Cellars; Orin is his father’s middle name and Swift is his mother’s maiden name. Starting with two tons of Zinfandel and not much else, David spent the next decade making wine for others as well as himself and grew the company into a multinational brand. The winery also has a great tasting room in downtown Napa where you can try his brilliant range of wines.

The wines have been consistently good regardless of vintage. I love the evocative labelling and adored the 2022 Orin Swift ‘Eight Years in the Desert’ Red Wine (OB, 94) is a gorgeous Zinfandel based that is drinking beautifully now. An amazing wine, the 2022 Orin Swift ‘Abstract’ Red Wine (OB, 94) is dense and powerful with good tension from this warm vintage. Learn more about these great, intense wines at http://www.orinswift.com. Here are some of the gorgeous release wines by Orin Swift.

2022 Orin Swift ‘Abstract’ Red Wine- The 2022 ‘Abstract’ is a blockbuster blend of Grenache, Petite Sirah and Syrah that was stored in 31% new French oak before bottling. Inky in the glass, this delivers tar, black currants and juicy black plum on the nose with shades of milk chocolate. The palate is viscous and delicious with a smooth texture and wonderful sense of verve. Rich and layered, enjoy this decadent bottling now and over the next ten years. Drink 2024-2034- 94

2022 Orin Swift ‘Eight Years In the Desert’ Zinfandel- A great Zinfandel, the 2022 Orin Swift ‘Eight Years In the Desert’ was stored in 32% new French oak for six months prior to bottling. This wine is named for the transaction of ‘The Prisoner’ which stated that for eight years in the early 2010s, Orin Swift Cellars was barred from making any Zinfandel wines. This edition has some Petite Sirah, Syrah blended in. Inky in the glass, this delivers  good flavor density with dark chocolate shavings, graphite, bramble and shades of black licorice on the palate. Dense and decadent, enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2024-2034- 94

2022 Orin Swift ‘Papillon’ Red Wine- A delicious wine to enjoy now, the 2022 ‘Pappillon’ is a proprietary blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller parts Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Stored for 13 months in 40% new French oak before bottling, this offers red bell pepper and black licorice on the nose alongside sandalwood and shades of creme de cassis. The palate is soft and inviting with a smooth texture. Loaded with dense dark fruit flavors, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2024-2032- 93

2022 Orin Swift ‘Palermo’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2022 ‘Palermo’ was stored in 32% new French oak for 12 months prior to bottling. Chocolate and roasted dates fill the palate alongside baking spices and shades of sweet pipe tobacco. Rich and loaded with ripe dark fruits, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2022 Orin Swift ‘Mercury Head’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2022 ‘Mercury Head’ is a delicious wine that was stored for 13 months in French Oak, 60% new, before bottling. This is a barrel select wine that winemaker David Phinney chooses to be the finest representation of Napa Valley Cabernet that he has in the cellar. This is beautifully performed on the nose with black florals that parade with chocolate, Cuban cigar and shades of black currant jelly. The palate is soft and inviting with a smooth texture and dense mouthfeel. Fabulous now, enjoy over the next ten plus years. Drink 2024-2036- 95

Woodward Canyon

One of the all-time greats out of Walla Walla, this spring I had the chance to sit down with second generation vintner, Sager Small and taste many of the old vintage wines. This was a spectacular tasting I will not forget — and I even tasted their first vintage. Sager described the 2022 vintage as being “more in line with historical temperatures. It steadily goes up and then it peaks and then comes down.” I tasted a range of new wines in their latest releases from ’21 and ’22. I was pleasantly surprised with what I tried from ’22 which were wines with plenty of richness and depth. Some producers struggled with producing depth in their ’22 wines but that was not the case with these.

I very much enjoyed their 2022 white wines and the new ’23 Chardonnay is a slightly richer style for them but on par in quality to their ’22 Chard. The 2023 Woodward Canyon Chardonnay (OB, 94) has beautiful richness and texture. It is definitely not best served cold. I really enjoyed the 2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Cabernet Franc (OB, 95) which is one of the finest wines of its kind that I have tasted this year. Learn more about these fantastic new wines at woodwardcanyon.com and here are my reviews of the beautiful new wines by Woodward Canyon.

2023 Woodward Canyon Chardonnay- The 2023 Chardonnay is a deep and concentrated effort that was stored in a small amount of new French oak prior to bottling. Juicy nectarine and vanilla cream all mark the palate alongside shades of toasted brioche and salty nuances. Full-bodied, this is definitely best-served at a warmer temperature to take on the downright unctuous texture. Enjoy now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2024-2032- 94

2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Barbera- The 2022 ‘Estate’ Barbera is a lithe and juicy effort hat was aged for 21 months before bottling. It is brimming with bright red fruits with orange rind and tobacco leaf notes on the palate. Really well-done, this could be the best edition of this wine that I have ever tried. Enjoy this medium-bodied bottling now and over the next eight years. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah- The 2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah was stored in in combination of French and Hungarian oak before bottling. It is rich and viscous with a neat texture. Milk chocolate flavors combine with sweet pipe tobacco, black currants and black olive tapenade on the palate. The balance between poise, richness and fruit/non-fruit flavors is seriously fabulous. Very delicious now, watch this beauty evolve over the next ten years. Drink 2024-2034- 94

2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Grenache/Mourvedre/Syrah/Malbec’ Red Wine- The 2022 Grenache/Mourvedre/Syrah/Malbec’ Red Wine is a one of a kind offering that is already nicely evolved. Baking spices and black tea with cocoa powder all mark the nose alongside shades of black licorice and wintergreen. The palate is big and bold with a juicy core of black and red fruits alongside thyme, chocolate and hints of scorched earth. Medium to full-bodied with good texture and verve, enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2024-2034- 93

2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Merlot- The 2022 ‘Estate’ Merlot was stored in 40% new French  oak prior to bottling. It is a knockout wine showing beautiful depth and concentration. Milk chocolate dusted black cherry and red raspberry combine with garrigue notes on the palate, alongside sandy soils. Beautifully poised and balanced, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next fifteen years. This is every bit as good as the 2021 edition. Drink 2024-2039- 94

2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Artist Series #31’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A gorgeous wine, the 2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Artist Series #31’ Cabernet Sauvignon dawns the work of Mary Crane Nutter, as this was stored in 60% new French and Hungarian oak before bottling. Black currants and black tea mark the palate alongside toasty oak, espresso grounds and shades of black licorice candy. Full-bodied and filled with mouth-watering acidity, this is already beautifully evolved stuff that will cellar well for another ten plus years to come. Drink 2024-2039- 94

2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate Clone 4’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2022 ‘Estate Clone 4’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from a site planted back in 2003, located on a south-facing slope of the vineyard. The location is set on loess soils and silts. Red bell pepper and fresh thyme hit the nose alongside allspice and shades of creme de cassis. The palate is laden with finesse and richness, showing excellent verve and texture. A total stunner, enjoy this outstanding bottling now and over the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2024-2040- 96

2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate Clone 191’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The brilliant 2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate Clone 191’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from a northern block of the estate vineyard. Stored in 60% new French and Hungarian oak, this offers fresh herbs and blackberry compote on the nose with shades of creosote and Black Forest cake. The palate is fresh and polished, just slightly more reticent than the ‘Clone 4’ but showing some great aging potential with its poise and body. Try to hold this beauty for another year. Drink 2025-2040- 95

2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Cabernet Franc- The 2022 ‘Estate’ Cabernet Franc was stored in mainly neutral oak barrels. It opens with white peppercorn and shades of black licorice and bay leaf, with orange bell pepper notes. Very herbal and tension-laden, the plush texture really adds to the enjoyment here. On par with the world-class 2021 edition, this is a stunning rendition of Washington Cabernet Franc that will easily age for another fifteen years. Drink 2024-2039- 95

2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2022 ‘Estate Reserve’ unlike the 2021 edition is nearly all Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), utilizing five Bordeaux varietals. It is rich, viscous and beautifully textured stuff that is drinking marvelously right now. A massive wall of dark fruits greet you alongside graphite, loamy soils, sweet pipe tobacco and shades of dried herbs. Full-bodied and delicious, enjoy now and over the next fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2024-2039- 95

2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Old Vines Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The sensational 2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Old Vines Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from estate blocks that were planted in the early 90s. This is deep, rich and filled with mouth-coating acidity. A great core of black and blue fruits collide with pencil lead and Earl Grey tea notes. Not fully developed — but showing some incredible potential — let this rest for at least another year. Drink 2026-2042- 96

2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2022 ‘Old Vines’ is another fabulous edition of this wine and comes from vines that average for years old. Asian spices and black tea mark the nose alongside wild huckleberry and shades of red bell pepper giving this a light herbal edge. The palate is full-bodied and filled with nerve and weight. Give this beauty another year to settle. Drink 2025-2040- 95

Cadence

For more than 25 years Ben Smith (http://owenbargreen.com/benjamin-smith-cadence) together with his wife Gaye McNutt have been making exceptional bottlings from some of the state’s great sites. I have seen the aging potential in Cadence wines, several times tasting wines that are 20 years or more of age. These are some of the most age worthy wines in Washington. Years back Cadence planted an estate vineyard on Red Mountain, the Cara Mia Vineyard, where most of their wines come from.

Cadence has a knack for producing great wines in tough vintages such as 2019 and 2020 vintages. I adored the new 2021 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine (OB, 97) which is amongst the finest that I have tasted from this house. This beautifully balanced wine is a total stunner. Learn more about this great winery at cadencewinery.com  and here are my reviews of the the beautiful new wines by Cadence.

2021 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Camerata’ combines 80% Cabernet Sauvignon with equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc from the Cara Mia Vineyard on Red Mountain. This is wonderfully herbal and soft with garrgiue notes alongside red bell pepper, tar, mocha and allspice notes. Medium to full-bodied with beautiful freshness and great loamy soil accents, enjoy over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2021 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Bel Canto’ combines nearly all Cabernet Franc (89%) with 8% Merlot and the remainder Petit Verdot. The noise is delightfully Bordelaise wth Right-bank inspired wet gravel with red bell pepper alongside boysenberry compote and shades of coffee grounds. Everything is in clockwork balance in terms of weight, acidity and finish. For my palate, this is truly one of the great ‘Bel Canto’ wines ever produced. Enjoy now and over the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2024-2044- 97

2023 Cadence ‘Coccinelle Bis Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2023 ‘Coccinelle Bis Vineyard’ Syrah is a limited production (70 cases) bottling that was stored for 11 months in French oak prior to bottling. This wine was sourced from a new site owned by Christophe Baron who stated in a generous move that ‘all the profits must go to charity, mostly to the Walla Walla Food Bank.’ The tension here is world-class as smoldering stone and iodine notes combine with umami, charcuterie and milk chocolate combine with wild blackberry notes. The level of mouth-watering acidity here is stunning. Kudos to Ben Smith and the Cadence team for producing a world-class wine that is absolutely going to dazzle you. No need to cellar this mineral-laden beauty. Drink 2024-2031- 96

2017 Bordeaux Retrospective: Rising Above the Shadows

Some vintages might not be flashy but still catch your eye. I am always reminded of the great Bordeaux wines made in 2001 — a vintage initially panned which followed the stunning 2000 year. The same is true with 2014, sandwiched between the downright awful 2013 vintage and the stunning 2015 vintage. 2017 weather-wise did not start out well in Bordeaux. Frost set in, negatively impacting a relatively warm winter. Spring saw some warmer temperatures leading to an early bud-break but a later April frost led to some crop damage. Then in May and June it warmed up for some hot weather while things later cooled off in July and August leading to some damp weather in September. This led to an early pick for many producers.

2017s have lower alcohols than the 2016s and 2018s which are known around the wine world to be deeply concentrated vintages. The 2017 wines are generally more classic, although they generally show plenty of stuffing and mid-palate depth and ripeness. For my palate 2017 stands clearly in front of 2013, 2012 and 2011 in terms of overall quality. I think the wines are a step behind 2016 and 2018 — but not by a large margin. The wines are beautiful in terms of florals and nuance. I love the 2018 Bordeaux wines but they are sometimes not as aromatically expressive as the 2017s. 2017 wines have great cellaring potential, only slightly behind those made in ’16 and ’18.

In 2017 the top houses made great wines. Both the 2017 Chateau Latour (OB, 99) and the  2017 Mouton-Rothschild (OB, 99) flirt with perfection for different reasons. They are stunning wines that are well-priced compared to other vintages. I found a few wines where I thought that the house should have performed a bit better.  I was amazed by the 2017 Chateau Palmer (OB, 97) and the 2017 Cos d’Estournel (OB, 97) which were slight steps behind the first growths, but absolutely not far removed. Certainly these do not embody the power of ’18 but there is really good depth of flavor and beautiful finesse. 2017s are elegant wines right now that are slowly coming into their own. While 2017 remains in the shadows of 2016 and ’18, there are many wines from this vintage that should not be overlooked. Here are my reviews of the brilliant left bank wines from 2017.

2017 Chateau Latour- A stunning wine from this vintage, the 2017 Chateau Latour is one of the great wines made this year. Needing more than a five hour decant, this is an elegant Latour, much more reminiscent of the 2010 than the 2009. The gorgeous red florals greet you immediately alongside wet gravel and rich dark fruits. The palate yields red bell pepper and creme de cassis notes that combine with shades of pencil lead as well as huckleberry compote. Impeccably balanced and still somewhat backwards, with refined tannins, give this a few more years of cellaring before enjoying. Drink 2026-2056- 99

2017 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild- A total knockout from the vintage, the 2017 Chateau Mouton-Rothcshild flirts with perfection, needing more than five hours in the decanter to get going. Once aroused this offers violets and scorched earth alongside red bell pepper, anise and creme de cassis notes. The palate is soft and seamless with a glorious texture and great sense of underlying tension. Full-bodied and rich, enjoy now and over the next twenty five plus years. Drink 2025-2050- 99

2017 Chateau Palmer- A glorious wine, the 2017 Chateau Palmer is a heavyhitter that has a long way to go in the cellar. Dense creme de violette, anise, dark chocolate shavings and dark cherry flavors combine with silky tannins and copious stony minerals. This is seamless throughout the drinking experience. Enjoy now and over the next twenty plus years. Drink 2024-2044- 97

2017 Chateau Cos d’ Estournel- The remarkable 2017 Cos d’ Estournel is a stunning combination of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Merlot with a dash of both Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Stored in 60% new French oak right away this allures with beautiful violet rose petals, Turkish coffee, and Cuban cigar with wet gravel on the nose alongside a pretty core of black fruits. Full-bodied and beautifully balanced, enjoy this seamless bottling now and over the next twenty years to come. Drink 2024-2044- 97

2017 Chateau Pontet-Canet- The 2017 Pontet-Canet is a world-class wine that is seamless, well-balanced and silky on the mouth. A blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, with smaller parts Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this shows off mocha, tar, allspice dusted blackberry and dark currants all combine on the palate, with espresso grounds and wet gravel notes. Medium to full-bodied, enjoy this outstanding wine now and over the next twenty years. Drink 2024-2044- 96

2017 Chateau Leoville-Barton- The 2017 Leoville-Barton is a silky and delicious new bottling that is showing really well at the seven year mark. Medium-bodied and soft, with silky tannins, this shows off blackberry compote and Arabica bean and dark chocolate shavings. Generous and very fresh, enjoy this refined bottling now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2017 Chateau Giscours- The 2017 Giscours combines 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. This rendition is a delicious wine that is showing brilliantly now. Cassis, tar, mocha and pencil shavings all mark the nose. The palate is plush with good depth and concentration. Alluring with its exotic spice notes, enjoy now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2017 Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion- The 2017 Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion is a gorgeous combination of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Right away this delivers sagebrush and red bell pepper on the nose alongside graphite and shades of boysenberry compote. The palate is plush and deeply concentrated with seriously good weight and tension. Refined tannins line this beautiful wine that is showing brilliantly now. Drink 2024-2040- 94

2017 Chateau Phelan Segur- Very heady and dense in the glass, the 2017 Phelan-Segur really needs a three hour decant if consumed now. Pencil lead and anise mingle well with creme de cassis notes on the nose. The palate is medium to full-bodied and loaded with tension, gravel soils and dense dark fruits. Texturally very beautiful now, and still quite primary, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 94

2017 Chateau Rauzan-Segla- This 2017 Rauzan-Segla is a great showing in this vintage. Fresh herbs and green bell pepper mark the nose alongside coffee grounds and shades of black licorice. The palate is medium-bodied and fresh, with beautiful black florals and a great core of black fruits, nestled alongside beautiful freshness producing mouth-watering acidity. Drink 2024-2040- 94

2017 Domaine de Chevalier- An inky core, the 2017 Domaine de Chevalier is round and generous on the mouth with a silky mouthfeel and refined tannins. Walnut and black currants combine with espresso grounds and shades of cassis on the palate. Drink 2024-2040- 94

Horsepower Vineyards

One of the famed producers of the Pacific Northwest, Horsepower Vineyards was founded by famed vigneron Christophe Baron. Growing up in France, Baron and his family had a special affinity for animals, as draft horses worked the Champagne vineyards that he and his family resided over. Today we see that childhood inspiration which that led to creating one of the most coveted lineup of wines in the Pacific Northwest, Horsepower Vineyards. In his Walla Walla AVA vineyards his horses help cultivate vineyards ranging from 3,555 to 4,840 vines per acre with as little as 3' x 3' spacing—planted 1 vine per stake, or “sur echalas” in French. Year after year these are some of the finest wines of the Walla Walla AVA. The tightly spaced Sur Echalas Vineyard produces wines that show incredible underlying tension. They have been stunning wines regardless of vintage — wines that shine even in the most challenging of conditions.

Bionic Wines Director of Winemaking Elizabeth Bourcier is a world-class talent in West Coast wine. Bourcier studied under Christophe and has been producing sensational wines for many years now. She did an amazing job with the challenging 2020 vintage and knocked it out of the park in ’21. The 2022 wines are amazing. They show slightly brighter acidity and less weight than the ‘21s but still offer plenty of stuffing. They remind me a bit of the ‘17s in terms of underling finesse. The wines can benefit from a short 20 or 30 minute decant but are also astonishingly good right out of the bottle in their tension-filled essence. As with the ‘21s, I see absolutely no reason to cellar these, as the wines are currently showing marvelously

It is very rare for me to rate a wine at 100 but I scored three of these wines at 100 points. The 2022 Horsepower ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache (OB, 100) is every bit as good as the 2021. It shows scintillating flavor and aromatic range that is quite simply otherworldly. Learn more about about these monumental wines at https://horsepowervineyards.com/horsepowervineyards/ Here are my reviews of the new 2022 releases by Horsepower Vineyards.

2022 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache- Translucent in the glass, the 2022 ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ is sourced from this tightly-spaced location laden with cobblestones just outside the town of Milton-Freewater. Aromatically enchanting, this yields beautiful red rose petals with Asian spices, prosciutto ham, Nori and shades of smoldering stones with bacon grease accents. The palate is impeccably balanced, round and generous, with serious underlying tension that will make your mouth water. Showing great depth and a delightfully long finish, enjoy this novel, one of a kind wine now and over the next eight years. Drink 2024-2032- 100

2022 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Fiddleneck Vineyard’ Grenache- A wonderful foil to the ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache, the 2022 ‘Fiddleneck Vineyard’ Grenache shows very different flavor and aromatic profiles — yet is clearly equal in overall quality. This Grenache was sourced from this stony site first planted back in 2015. Exuding class, this delivers a Chateau Rayas quality to this wine in terms of its purity of red fruits. The nose takes on hauntingly good range, offering pomegranate seed, kelp and blood orange zest tones alongside wet rock and hints of beef drippings. The aromatic range is mind-bending. The palate is liquid silk in its red fruit purity, showing dizzying underlying finesse and a generous mouthfeel. A total stunner, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next eight years to come. Drink 2024-2032- 100

2022 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Syrah- A world-class Syrah, the 2022 ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ is without a doubt one of the finest wines I have tasted over the past year. A stunning achievement by Horsepower Vineyards Director of Winemaking, Elizabeth Bourcier, this takes the lead with black truffle shavings and oyster sauce notes on the nose alongside cured meats, coffee grounds and wet stone accents. This has excellent power considering the coolness of the vintage, but the mouth-watering acidity really holds things neatly in place. The palate is plush and beautifully textured, showing beautiful weight and verve. Seamless throughout the drinking experience, with a gracious core of black and red fruits, alongside the salty and stony nuances, this is delicious, beautifully-textured Syrah that will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2024-2034- 100

2022 Horsepower Vineyards ‘High Contrast Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2022 Horsepower Vineyards ‘High Contrast Vineyard’ Syrah is sourced from vines set on a combination of ancient cobblestones and silty loam soils. Stored for 15 months in all neutral oak barrels, this opens with suggestions of black tea, Mandarin orange zest and exotic spices alongside beef brisket, Kalamata olive, charcuterie and smoldering stones. The palate is plush and soft with a pillowy texture and beautiful underlying acidity. Salty and savory, enjoy this beauty now and over the next eight years. Drink 2024-2032- 98

2022 Horsepower Vineyards ‘The Tribe Vineyard’ Syrah- An amazing edition of this wine, the 2022 Horsepower Vineyards ‘The Tribe Vineyard’ Syrah comes from this stony location outside of the town of Milton-Freewater. Hoisin sauce and BBQ beef rib aromatics parade with shades of lavender, bay leaf and rich boysenberry fruits on the nose. The palate is polished and soft with a seamless texture and excellent sense of weight despite the coolness of the vintage. Concentrated and intense, enjoy this heady version of ‘The Tribe’ now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2024-2032- 98

Champagne Christophe Baron

Today we share the brilliant wines of Champagne Christophe Baron. Pinot Meunier is typically a blending agent in Champagne, as there are few top bottlings that utilize this varietal. We have seen Krug can use roughly 33% Pinot Meunier in their ‘Grand Cuvee’ blend. Billecart-Salmon also makes a delicious 100% Pinot Meunier Champagne. Definitely one of the top Pinot Meunier champagnes that you all find in the world, the magnum only and mailing list-only Champagne Christophe Baron are all zero dosage bottlings that showcase 100% Pinot Meunier. These wines have improved over the years.

Christophe Baron was born into an exceedingly long line of Champagne vignerons, with a history that dates back as far as 1677. He trained in Avize (Champagne) and Beaune before moving to the United States and founding one of North America’s iconic brands, Cayuse Vineyards. Baron’s estate in champagne includes 3 hectares (7.5 acres) surrounding the villages of Charly-sur-Marne, Crouttes-sur-Marne and the hamlet of Porteron, and its vineyard holdings are made up of only very old parcels of Pinot Meunier.

These are dense Champagnes that are generally a bigger style. They are best consumed in a Riedel Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc glass, or a Riedel tasting glass. They also need a lot of time when opened and I recommend letting them sit for least 30 minutes prior to consuming. Finally, make sure to not serve these wines cold. They are best served at 42-45 degrees — or warmer! I personally think these wines really hit their sweet spot when they are quite on the warm side, where you can full evoke the full range of flavors and aromatics.

2020 was slightly cooler than the very warm 2019. 2020 completes the third warm vintage in a row for champagne. I think you are going to love the CCB wines from this vintage which will be released to their mailing list in one year. Here are my reviews of the stunning 2020 champagnes by Champagne Christophe Baron (mailing list only) and learn more at https://champagnechristophebaron.com/

2020 Champagne Christophe Baron ‘Les Hauts Blanches Vignes’ Champagne- A stunning wine, the 2020 Champagne Christophe Baron ‘Les Hauts Blanches Vignes’ was sourced from Pinot Meunier vines that were planted back in 1969. Coming from this steep, southwestern facing location, this is loaded with rich melon and citrus fruits alongside delicate cranberry and salty minerals on the palate. Full-bodied with plenty of tension, this beautiful wine can benefit from another year or two in the bottle. Drink 2026-2039- 96

2020 Champagne Christophe Baron ‘Le Dessus Du Bois Marie’ Champagne- Dawning a beautiful light pink hue, the dense 2020 Champagne Christophe Baron ‘Le Dessus Du Bois Marie’ Champagne is a beautiful wine that is fresh and bold, with a refined mousse and loads of minerality. Fat and round on the mouth, this offers tangerine peel and lemon zest flavors with quince dusted Challah bread, ginger and notes of baking spices. Very fresh, focused and finesse-driven, try to resist this beauty for another year. Drink 2025-2039- 96

2020 Champagne Christophe Baron ‘Les Alouettes’ Champagne- The dense and delicious 2020 Champagne Christophe Baron ‘Les Alouettes’ comes from this site set at nearly 500 feet. This site is southeastern facing and is located in the town of Charly-sur- Marne. Baked apple and pear notes combine with salted cashew nut and shades of Yakima cherry on the nose. The palate is big and dense with great underlying finesse. Salty and chalky mineral-driven, enjoy now and over the next fifteen years. Drink 2024-2039- 96

2020 Champagne Christophe Baron ‘Les Closeaux’ Champagne- This is the third rendition of the ‘Les Closeaux’ which is sourced from a tiny site set at 269 feet elevation, neighboring the town of Crouttes-sur-Marne. A brilliant salmon color with a silky mousse upon entry, this offers ginger and Macadamia nut on the nose alongside red raspberry and shades of toasted brioche. The palate is extremely mineral-laden with less weight than the 2019 edition — but boasting more mouth-watering acidity. This performs quite a bit better at a warmer temperature, using a Riedel Riesling stem. Enjoy this impossible to resist Champagne now and over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2039- 96

Long Shadows

One of the state’s great winemakers, Gilles Nicault knows what to do during tough vintages. Already been through 2011 and 2019 as well as 2015, Nicault has produced a range of standout wines from the 2020 vintage. There is little doubt that the 2020s by Long Shadows completes one of the finest overall lineups of the vintage. Visionary and Washington wine pioneer Allen Shoup founded Long Shadows after spending 20 years building Château Ste. Michelle and its affiliate wineries into a world wine power. All Long Shadows wines are now made by Nicault.

I adored the new 2023 Long Shadows ‘Cymbal’ Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 94) which is arguably the finest Sauvignon Blanc made in the Pacific Northwest. Even better is the sinfully good 2021 Long Shadows ‘Feather’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 96) — a heroic effort from a warm. vintage. Cheers to Nicault and his hard work. Learn more about these famed wines at longshadows.com and here are my reviews of the beautiful new Long Shadows and Nine Hats wines.

2023 Long Shadows ‘Cymbal’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2023 Long Shadows ‘Cymbal’ Sauvignon Blanc was stored in 25% new French oak and is sourced from four separate sites— the McNary, Gamache, Boushey  and Bacchus Vineyards. This has a magical push-pull in terms of weight and vibrancy. Beautifully-textured, this offers kumquat rind and Japanese pear flavors that mingle well with green papaya, freshly cut grass and cloves. A joy to consume, don’t serve this beauty too cold. The best yet of this edition by winemaker Gilles Nicault. Drink 2024-2034- 94

2022 Long Shadows ‘Dance’ Chardonnay- The 2022 ‘Dance’ is another stunning rendition of this wine that is becoming one of the great Chardonnay bottlings made in Washington. This is also one to serve on the warmer side, as this was stored on the lees for 17 months before bottling. Coming from the French Creek and Boushey Vineyards, this delivers a smooth mouthfeel, with great underlying verve. Buttered brioche and banana notes combine with suggestions of Meyer lemon cream, cardamom and almond paste. Very complex in its nutty, tropical and citrus notes, enjoy now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2024-2032- 94

2020 Long Shadows ‘Sequel’ Syrah- The gorgeous 2020 ‘Sequel’ was stored in mainly new French oak barrels (65% new) for 18 months before bottling. Sourced from three separate vineyards in the Columba Valley this is a really nice edition of this wine despite the obvious challenges at harvest. Asphalt and bacon fat mark the nose alongside shades of black olive tapenade and rich figs, as this offers really good aromatic complexity. The palate is plush and dense as silky tannins frame a brilliant core of dark fruits, alongside cocoa nib and espresso ground accents. Complex and delicious, this is a resounding success in 2020. No reason to cellar this beauty. Drink 2024-2030-95

2020 Long Shadows ‘Pedestal’ Merlot- The 2020 ‘Pedestal’ combines 84% Merlot with 14% Cabernet Sauvignon and the remainder Petit Verdot. Stored for 22 months in nearly all new French oak, this Merlot opens with beautiful dark florals on the nose alongside Turkish coffee grounds, with shades of wild blackberry compote. The palate is soft and refined with a smooth mouthfeel and good sense of weight. Enjoy this outstanding wine now and over the next few years. Drink 2024-2030- 95

2020 Long Shadows ‘Pirouette’ Red Wine- Consistently one of the great red blends in Washington State, the 2020 ‘Pirouette’ combines 66% Cabernet Sauvignon with 30% Merlot and small portions Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Aged in mainly new French oak barrels, this offers alluring Asian spices on the nose alongside suggestions of tar, cuban cigar and shades of black licorice. The palate is elegant and generous, showing soft tannins that frame a glorious core of black fruits, with shades of Black Forest Cake. A great wine to consume now, enjoy over the next few years. Drink 2024-2030- 95

2021 Long Shadows ‘Feather’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A standout wine from a tough vintage, the 2021 ‘Feather’ comes from primarily the Weinbau and Dionysus Vineyards in the White Bluffs AVA, as well as a handful of sites in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. Pencil lead and cedar wood mark the nose alongside hints of white pepper dusted chocolate and creme de cassis. This comes off exceedingly elegant and seamless throughput the drinking experience, as the oak treatment caresses the mid-palate. Like all great wines from this vintage, enjoy now in its heady youth. Drink 2024-2030- 96

Merryvale

One of the great wineries to visit in Napa, Merryvale’s historic building was the first winery built in the Napa Valley after the repeal of Prohibition in 1933 and has become a favorite destination for visitors to the valley. This is a beautiful wine country setting, surrounded by French oak barrels and casks. I’ve enjoyed visiting this beautiful property many times and the surrounding serene vineyards. The property is owned by the Schlatter family. They have been making their ‘Profile’ red blend for many years and this years edition for my palate was the finest one yet!

Winemaker Andrew Wright has crafted a beautiful range of wines. I love the new 2022 ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which is rich and viscous showing off the warmth of the vintage. Learn more at https://www.merryvale.com and here are the beautiful new wines by Merryvale.

2022 Merryvale ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay- The 2022 ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay underwent full malolactic fermentation, minimal stirring and sur lie aging for 10 months in 30% new French oak before bottling, Juicy peach and brioche notes mark the palate alongside vanilla cream, baking spices and shades of poached pear. Delicious now, and showing good salty nuance from this region, enjoy over the next six plus years. Drink 2024-2030- 92

2022 Merryvale ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir- The 2022 Merryvale ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir is drinking beautifully right now. Rich red cherry, cola and strawberry notes combine with shades of salty soils on the palate. Medium to full-bodied and soft on the mouth, enjoy now and over the next six to eight years. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2019 Merryvale ‘Profile’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Profile’ is a striking blend of almost all Cabernet Sauvignon with just a kiss of Cabernet Franc blended in. The wine was stored for 20 months in 80% new French oak before bottling. Brooding in the glass, this slowly unveils aromatics of pencil lead, creme de cassis, mocha, and scorched earth notes. The palate is refined and ultra-smooth, as this is utterly seamless throughout the drinking experience. Loaded with concentrated black and blue fruit flavors, with graphite and stony accents, this far and away the finest wine I have tasted from this estate. Drink 2024-2044- 96

Spring Valley

A Walla Walla icon, Spring Valley Vineyards is located on old Walla Walla farm land that dates all the way back to the 1880s. It was roughly 100 years later that Shari and Dean Derby planted vines on the land and made their first vintage in 1999. The Derbys’ son Devin Corkrum Derby served as winemaker until his passing in 2004. He made some beautiful wines that I enjoyed very much.

Devin’s assistant and friend Serge Laville took over as winemaker and has been crafting some beautiful wines for many years. Their new winemaker is Kate Derby, a sixth-generation family farmer and winemaker who has taken the helm Spring Valley Vineyard. She has worked at Spring Valley Vineyard for much of her life. Growing up she spent summers hoeing the vineyard rows with her grandfather and racking wine with Spring Valley’s first winemaker, her uncle Devin Derby. After receiving her bachelor’s degree, she began her full time career with Spring Valley in the tasting room, then on the road representing the brand across the country and finally joining the winemaking team in 2011. I love the 2021 Spring Valley ‘Fredrick’ Red Wine (OB, 93) which is full-bodied and deep with a pillowy texture. Even better is the fabulous 2021 Spring Valley ‘Uriah’ Red Wine (OB, 94) which unlike the last edition focuses only on Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Learn more about these outstanding wines at springvalleyvineyard.com

Here are my reviews of the fantastic new Spring Valley wines.

2021 Spring Valley Vineyards ‘Frederick’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Frederick’ is a gorgeous proprietary blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. It is medium to full-bodied and shows wonderful balance. Rich dark chocolate shavings and blackberry compote flavors combine with black tea and Asian spices. Enjoy this beautifully balanced wine now and over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2024-2036- 93

2021 Spring Valley Vineyards ‘Uriah’ Red Wine- The 2021 Spring Valley Vineyards ‘Uriah’ is a a stunning blend of 54% Merlot and 46% Cabernet Franc. Unlike the last wine there is no Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. Generous and sturdy, this displays good tension alongside red bell pepper, mocha, anise and shades of tar with cassis accents. Full-bodied and very delicious, enjoy now and over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2024-2036- 94

2021 Spring Valley Vineyards ‘Katherine Corkrum’ Cabernet Franc- This beautiful 2021 Cabernet Franc is named after Katherine Williams who was born in Wales and then later came all the way to Walla Walla, marrying Uriah Corkrum. This is a world-class bvbottling that is notches ahead of the 2019 edition. Orange bell pepper with blackberry compote, Black Forest cake and shades of black licorice all combine on the palate. Beautifully textured with good weight and underlying acidity, enjoy now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2024-2034- 94

2021 Spring Valley Vineyards ‘Nina Lee’ Syrah- The 2021 ‘Nina Lee’ is named after a famous Pacific Northwest dancer that performed in the roaring twenties. Aged for 30 months in French 500 Liter puncheons and stainless steel, this is inky in the glass, delivering white pepper dusted brisket, anise, and Hoisin sauce on the nose alongside shades of roasted duck. The palate is plush and soft with serious texture and refined tannins. A glorious core of black fruits greet you as this generous wine is drinking beautifully right now. Also notches above the 201 edition. Drink 2024-2034- 94

AniChe Cellars

It is my pleasure to share one of the brilliant and novel producers of the Columbia Gorge AVA. A great family-run business, AniChe focuses on varietal blends that include rarely planted Italian varietals like Dolcetto, Barbera and Zinfandel (Primativo). For about a decade I have been tasting these wines. They have become more and more consistent. The novelty remains but the overall quality has improved. This is a stinking, unusually beautiful lineup of Washington wine. Taste through this lineup and it will open your eyes to something new.

Anais Mera, and Rachael Horn make some beautiful wines together. They have crafted some beautiful new wines which were seriously good across the board. I loved the new 2021 AniChe ‘Titania’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 91) which is 100% Marsanne and is truly one of its kind. A standout white wine, the 2023 AniChe Cellars ‘No. 5’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which is vibrant and fresh with a beautiful texture.  Learn more about this exciting small Washington winery at http://anichecellars.com/ and here are my reviews of the new AniChe Cellars wines.

2021 AniChe Cellars ‘Titania’ Sparkling Wine- The 2021 ‘Titania’ is a 100% Marsanne sparkling wine that was aged 20 months en tirage prior to disgorgement. Very round and generous on the mouth, you need to be enjoying this at a warmer temperature. This is really novel stuff in its flavor range from yellow plum to quince alongside baked apples. Delicious now, enjoy over the next few years. Drink 2024-2028- 91

2023 AniChe Cellars ‘Puck’ Sparkling Wine- The 2023 Puck’ combines equal parts Riesling and Pinot Gris. Like the 2022 edition, this is wonderfully salty and stony, with saline drenched nectarine and Pink Lady apple flavors, alongside wet slate. Yeasty and showing plenty of body, this is clearly one of the finest Washington Pet Nets I have tasted in the past year. Drink 2024-2030- 91

2020 AniChe ‘Oberon’ Sparkling Wine- The really good 2020 ‘Oberon’ offers plenty of rich melon and orchard fruit flavors alongside a soft mouthfeel and pretty mousse on the palate, showing salty nuances. Medium-bodied and smooth, enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2024-2030- 91

2023 AniChe Cellars ‘Serafina’ Riesling- The 2023 ‘Serafina’ was sourced from the Hecate’s Key Vineyard in the Columbia Gorge AVA.. It is delightful to consume in its mineral-laden youth. Beautifully textured stuff with Key lime, orange peel, and bergamot notes alongside wet stone, enjoy now and over the next six years. Drink 2024-2030- 91

2023 AniChe Cellars ‘The Devil’ Gruner Veltliner- The outstanding 2023 ‘The Devil’ is generous and rich on the mouth, delivering green papaya and kiwi flavors alongside cantaloupe and wet stone on the palate. Medium-bodied with good verve, enjoy this beauty now and over the next seven years. Drink 2024-2031- 92

2023 AniChe Cellars ‘No.5’ White Wine- The 2023 ‘No.5’ was fermented in clay amphorae and Italian cocciopresto. The Chardonnay was sourced from their home vineyard in the Columba Gorge AVA and opens with juicy nectarine, and kiwi alongside brioche bread. The palate is lithe with serious tension and salty minerals. A lengthy finish greets you, laden with minerals and vanilla cream. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next seven years. Drink 2024-2031- 92

2022 AniChe Cellars ‘Orlando’ Tempranillo- Nearly all Tempranillo with a splash of Grenache coming from the Ziegler Vineyard, this delivers tobacco, red currants and wet stone on the palate alongside a soft mouthfeel. The oak treatment really beautifully caresses the fruit. Medium to full-bodied, this is very Washington meets Ribera. Enjoy now and over the next eight years. Well-done! Drink 2024-2032- 92

2021 AniChe Cellars ‘Moth Love’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Moth Love’ combines mainly Grenache (50%) wth equal parts Syrah and Mourvèdre. Translucent in the glass, this delivers tobacco leaf notes on the nose alongside tar and black truffle alongside shades of red currants. The palate is soft and generous with rich fruits and a smooth mouthfeel. Delicious now, enjoy over the next six to eight years. Drink 2024-2031- 92

2021 AniChe Cellars ‘Barbariccia’ Sangiovese- The 2021 ‘Barbariccia’ is nearly all Sangiovese with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. It is nicely textured stuff, loaded with bright red fruits with menthol and orange peel notes. Delicious now, enjoy over the next eight years to come. Drink 2024-2031-91

2020 AniChe Cellars ‘Goat Boy’ Red Wine- Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (66%), the 2020 ‘Goat Boy’ has smaller portions Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Merlot blended in. Coming from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, this offers juicy black plum with asphalt, black currants and shades of dark chocolate shavings on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, enjoy now. Drink 2024-2030- 91

Northstar

Today we share one of the Pacific Northwest’s finest producers of Merlot. For more than twenty years Washington Merlot became a household wine, whether it was the killer value Columbia Crest ‘Grand Estates’ or more upscale Northstar bottlings. For years I have admired the wines by Northstar — a winery who certainly helped place Washington State Merlot on the national stage.

Northstar Merlot has been a pillar of consistency over the years. Even in challenging vintages like 2010 and 2011, Northstar has made brilliant wines. I love the 2021 Northstar ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot (OB, 92) which is a killer wine for the price. Learn more about these great wines at northstarwinery.com and here are my reviews of the latest releases by Northstar.

2021 Northstar ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot- A beautiful value the 2021 Northstar Merlot delivers a soft mouthfeel with black cherry and chocolate cake flavors that mingle well with shades of black licorice on the palate. Full of flavor, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2021 Northstar ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The delicious 2021 Northstar ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon offers loganberry and wild blackberry flavors that collide with dark chocolate shavings and espresso ground on the palate. Ripe and delicious, with a smooth texture, enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2024-2034- 92

2021 Northstar ‘Dionysus Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming from this site planted in the 1980s, the  ‘Dionysus Vineyard’ offers loamy soils and garrigue notes on the nose alongside graphite and shades of black licorice. The palate is soft and refined with a silky texture and great sense of length. Great to consume now, watch this evolve over the next ten plus years. Drink 2024-2036- 94

2021 Northstar ‘Walla Walla Red Blend’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Walla Walla Red Blend’ is a soft and refined mouth that is seamless once on the mouth. Cuban cigar and anise notes combine with dense dark fruits, chocolate and espresso grounds. Really well-done, enjoy over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2024-2034- 93

2021 Northstar ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon offers sagebrush and black cherry flavors with black licorice on the palate. Medium to full-bodied with soft tannins, enjoy now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2024-2034- 93

Domaine Carneros

One of my favorite California wineries to visit and a winery with unbridled beauty outside of the town of Napa, Domaine Carneros is perched on a hill overlooking the scenic Napa Valley. My wife and I recently visited this house and we adore the experience of tasting top sparkling wines with incredibly thoughtful food pairings on a terrace with sweeping views of the valley. You have to be there to experience this!

The ouse dates back to the 1970s as Claude Taittinger, of famed Champagne house Taittinger, began his search for a good spot to make California Sparkling Wine. Finally in 1987 he selected a 138-acre parcel in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley. The spot he selected is truly unique, as it has a massive maritime influence being perched near the bay. The vineyard is quite windy and produces highly concentrated berries that are very small in size. 2022 was not an easy vintage for Pinot Noir but this cooler, windy site seemed like it was less-affected by the severe heat spike that hit harvest. The new wines were well-structured and also very dense — not jammy.

Remi Cohen serves as CEO and the wines have been really focused in the last few years. I think these are the best red wines that they have made at this house. I adored the 2022 Domaine Carneros ‘The Famous Gate’ (OB, 94) which is a refined and beautifully textured pinot Noir that is exceedingly delicious to consume now. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://www.domainecarneros.com Here are the new sparkling wines by Domaine Carneros

2022 Domaine Carneros ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir offers red currant and red raspberry notes alongside garrigue accents on the palate. Soft, round and showing good freshness considering the heat spikes at harvest, this is a beautiful bottling that is best consumed now and over the next few years. Drink 2024-2030- 92

2022 Domaine Carneros ‘The Famous Gate’ Pinot Noir- The beautiful 2022 Domaine Carneros ‘The Famous Gate’ Pinot Noir was aged for 16 months on the lees before bottling. Coming from their estate vineyard in the Carneros region, this delivers teaberry and red raspberry notes alongside shades of lavender and thyme on the nose. The palate is big, bold and beautifully textured, showing beautiful weight and texture. Delicious now, enjoy over the next ten years. Drink 2024-2034- 94

2022 Domaine Carneros ‘Le Ciel Serein’ Pinot Noir- The 2022 ‘Le Ciel Serein’ is a site known as ‘Bliss Hill’ and was the background for Microsoft Windows XP. The Pinot Noir from this site was planted to a range of clones between 2002 and 2004. The palate is loaded with salty black cherry and cola notes alongside shades of provencal herbs and salty minerals. Fresh and lithe, with a core of medium-bodied dark fruits, enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2024-2034- 93

Cellar Selection: 2017 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon

For those with their hands in the sand, Doubleback was founded by NFL legend Drew Bledsoe. Bledsoe has been in the limelight in the past year, helping participate in the Roast of Tom Brady   (which was a huge hit this year on Netflix). A fellow Barolo enthusiast, Bledsoe has a great palate and is a great dude to chat wine with.

Doubleback winery relies in the winemaking talents of former Leonetti Cellar assistant Josh McDaniels. He is easily one of the Pacific Northwest’s best winemakers. The wine I tasted from my cellar was the 2017 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon. 2017 was a good vintage for red wines, sandwiched between two great vintages. There were some smoke issues with some reds in 2017 but this wine was not impacted. The wine is brooding, intense and is very driven by non-fruit flavors. It is a stunner, one that has a really long life ahead of it. Learn more about the wines at doubleback.com and here is my review of the 2017 Doubleback.

2017 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Doubleback is a show-stopping wine that has really come into its own in terms of drinkability. The wine was initially quite reticent and even now it benefits from 30 minutes of air. It is alive and thriving with lovely tar and tobacco leaf notes on the palate alongside dark chocolate shavings and a graphite edge. Full-bodied and beautifully textured, this will easily live on for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2024-2040- 95

Dutton-Goldfield

Today we share one of the greats out of Sonoma County. I have enjoyed Dutton-Goldfield wines from my personal collection for many years. They make a brilliant range including Riesling and even Pinot Blanc to Syrah. For years I have enjoyed visiting this top notch producer located in the Russian River Valley. Dutton Goldfield dates back to 1998 when colleagues Steve Dutton and Dan Goldfield decided to start a winery together. Steve Dutton is a 5th generation farmer while Dan has a background in chemistry and later completed the illustrious UC Davis program in winemaking. Dan previously worked at Robert Mondavi Winery and even made wine in Portugal for two years before coming back to California and starting Dutton-Goldfield

I adored the 2022 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Rued Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is dense and rich from this warm vintage. I was also so impressed with the 2022 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Emerald Ridge Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) coming from the Green Valley and is loaded with fantastic flavor range. Learn more about Dutton Goldfield at http://www.duttongoldfield.com. Here are the great new releases from Dutton Goldfield.

2022 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch’ Chardonnay- This beautiful wine comes from a range of sites in the Russian River Valley.  Rich butterscotch flavors combine with white peach and juicy Japanese apple, with salty nuances on the palate. Soft and generous, enjoy now and over the next five to seven years. Drink 2024-2031- 92

2022 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Rued Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The ‘Rued Vineyard’ is set in the Green Valley and is planted to Old Wente selection Chardonnay. Stored in all French oak (44% new) this offers good weight and length, with a soft mouthfeel. Banana and ripe pineapple give this a tropical edge alongside shades of pie crust and cloves. Really enjoyable now, savor this over the next seven years. Drink 2024-2031- 93

2022 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch’ Pinot Noir- A really good warm vintage wine, the 2022 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch’ Pinot Noir offers concentrated cola and black raspberry flavors on the palate with citrus rind nuance and salty soils. Medium to full-bodied and delicious, enjoy now and over the next five to seven years. Drink 2024-2031- 92

2022 Dutton-Goldfield ‘5 Wells Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 5 Wells Vineyard is a cooler site in the Russian River Valley, set on well-drained Goldridge Sandy Loam soils. Stored n 40% new French oak for 17 months before bottling, this delivers beautiful red florals on the nose alongside orange peel and cinnamon stick notes. The palate is juicy and ripe, laded with guava and wild strawberry fruit flavors. Enjoy this delicate and delicious Pinot Noir now and over the next eight years. Drink 2024-2032- 93

2022 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Angel Camp Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2022 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Angel Camp Vineyard’ Pinot Noir comes from this 10 acre site in the Anderson Valleyowned by Brian Zalaznick. It is wonderfully salty and earthy, with salted wet stone nuance on the palate, followed by wild blackberry and black cherry notes. Medium-bodied and already nicely evolved, enjoy over the next eight years. Drink 2024-2032- 93

2022 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Emerald Ridge Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The Emerald Ridge Vineyard is an east-facing site in the Green Valley, set on Goldridge soils. The Pinot Noir was stored in French oak barrels for 17 months (50% new) before bottling. Soft on the mouth, this is loaded with rich guava and red cherry fruit flavors, alongside shades of dark truffle and cola. Complex and delicious, enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2024-2034- 94

2022 Dutton-Goldfield ‘McDougall Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2022 ‘McDougall Vineyard’ is a windy site located in the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA. This location is set at 1,100 feet and has a strong influence from the Pacific Ocean. Stored in 50% new French oak, this is a total stunner, showing the salty/briny character of the region, yet is highly poised and concentrated. Tart red and dark fruits parade with mandarin orange zest and salty minerals on the palate. A truly great wine, enjoy over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2039- 95