I am always on the lookout for great new wineries. A relatively new project by sommelier Cole Sisson, The Orcas Project takes the Long Shadows Vintners model of using great Pacific Northwest winemakers to craft unique, terroir-driven bottlings spanning Oregon and Washington.
Sitting down with Cole at his brilliant and cozy Orcas Island wine shop, Doe Bay Wine Company, he shared some of his wine journey that has now gone full circle. Growing up on Orcas Island, Cole who returned home after fifteen years to realize his dream, with an incredible wine shop and awesome winery project. An advanced sommelier, many years back I recall meeting Cole for the first time during a glorious meal at famed Las Vegas outpost Michael Mina. Cole was a somm at RN74 Seattle before becoming wine director at Michael Mina at the Bellagio Resort in Las Vegas. Cole has even sat for the Master Sommelier Exam. His Orcas Project wines are geared towards acidity and terroir and labels are crafted from local Orcas Island artists.
I really enjoyed these wines across the board. The 2019 The Orcas Project Rose (WWB, 90) has incredible tension and wonderful texture with layers of sour red fruits and sterling minerality. I am not going to lie that I’m enchanted with the 2019 The Orcas Project Grenache Blanc (WWB, 92) which is one of the best of its kind in the state, crafted by the talented Morgan Lee of Two Vintners fame. Learn more about this fantastic winery project at https://www.theorcasproject.com Here are the great new wines by The Orcas Project.
2017 The Orcas Project ‘Willamette Valley Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine- The 2017 The Orcas Project ‘Willamette Valley’ Sparkling Wine is an outstanding wine that shows great astringency and poise. Sourced from the ‘Chalice Vineyard’ is the southern part of the Willamette Valley, this is crafted by winemaker Aaron Lieberman. Bright lemon zest with minerals, damp earth and shades of aged gouda, this has terrific range and a great sense of tension. Layered and vibrant, enjoy this great fresh style of Oregon sparkling wine over the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2027- 90
2019 The Orcas Project Rose- Made by Aaron Lieberman, this Pinot Noir Rose is sourced from the Chalice Vineyard in the Willamette Valley. Right away you notice the guava and bright Bing cherry on the nose with peat moss undertones that all mingle in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a great sense of texture. Lemon rind and sour red fruits dance with minerals and suggestions of forest floor on the palate. The length is really good, as is the mouth-watering acidity. Fresh, lively and tart, yet soft on the mouth, this is a great foil for fresh shellfish. Drink 2020-2025- 90
2019 The Orcas Project Albarino- Not typically a varietal grown in Washington, the 2019 The Orcas Project Albarino is sourced from the Dutchmen Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. The texture is immediately rewarding as the layers of gooseberry, starfruit and banana all come together marvelously in the glass, with smoky mineral accents. Exceedingly good to enjoy in its youth, the 2019 The Orcas Project Albarino will provide drinking enjoyment over the next five to seven years. Grab some fresh Kusshi oysters and run with this. Drink 2020-2025- 91
2019 The Orcas Project Grenache Blanc- The 2019 The Orcas Project Grenache Blanc is mainly sourced from the Boushey Vineyard (78%) with a small portion from the Weather Eye Vineyard (19%) and a has dollop of Roussanne added (3%). Straw aromatic tones with honeydew melon and shades of baking spices and damp earth all mingle in the glass. The palate shows great freshness and tension with layers of melon fruits with Gala apple, kiwi and copious minerals, with flinty undertones. The combination of tension, finesse and richness is seriously good. Drink 2020-2025- 92
2017 The Orcas Project ‘Snipes Mountain’ Graciano- Sourced from the esteemed ‘Upland Vineyard’ this Graciano shows wonderfully briny tones on the nose with the core of bright red fruits with citrus rind and bacon fat tones on the nose. The palate is soft, with great length. Layers of ripe figs dance with red cherry preserves and red raspberry cordial, with smoky and herbal undertones. This is seriously good stuff for the price, as the ‘Upland Vineyard’ Graciano will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another eight to ten years. Drink 2020-2028- 91
2016 The Orcas Project ‘Red Willow Vineyard’ Merlot- One of the great sites in the Yakima Valley, the famed ‘Red Willow Vineyard’ grows great Bordeaux varietals as well as Syrah. This Merlot shows light toasty oak tones alongside shades of wild blackberry compote and coffee grounds with light sage undertones on the nose. The palate is silky smooth, showing great balance and a seamless factor mid-palate. Medium-bodied, with light tannins that line the core of dark fruits, tobacco leaf and milk chocolate flavors, this is a gorgeous effort that will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2032- 92
2018 The Orcas Project Syrah- This Yakima Valley bottling smells Syrah immediately with its smoky tones and shades of milk chocolate with creosote and dried sage on the nose. Once on the mouth you are drawn to the elegance of the wine, as the silky smooth texture effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Layers of smoked meats, violets, coffee grounds and blackberry compote with minerals all collide on the palate. The length provides the wonderful ending as this gorgeous wine will cellar well over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2020-2028- 92