The pandemic has brought a series of massive challenges to most people. The widespread anxiety that I have seen in my clinical practice has been excruciating to see, as many jobs and even lives have been lost by this horrible disease. I’ve been doing my best to bring the wineries to people through a series of Instagram Live videos and a few weeks back it was a great honor to taste virtually with Jason Haas, General Manager of Tablas Creek . Jason has run a really fantastic and critically acclaimed Tablas Creek blog for many years. He is one of the foremost experts on his family winery, started by his father and California wine icon, Robert Haas, and the famed Perrin family of Chateau Beaucastel. Their first commercial vintage was 1997 and the rest has been history, as Tablas Creek has been one of the storied wineries not only in Paso Robles but in California.
I was first introduced to these wines while I was in graduate school in San Diego in 2003. Pretty soon there was a massive buzz about the Beaucastel influenced Tablas Creek wines as they were met with immediate critical acclaim from both Robert Parker and Wine Spectator. Jason has a great knowledge of the wines and vintages as I tasted with him and we talked about how the vintages were generally very consistent. Admittedly, there were a few surprises from my tasting. I was completely floored by the oldest wines that I tasted, both showing marvelous tertiary tones but in different ways. The 2000 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ Red Wine (WWB, 93) is simply magical at now the twenty year mark. I was surprised how bright this wine is, and while it is best enjoyed over the next several years, the aromatic and flavor range is nothing short of thrilling. Similarly the 2001 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel Blanc’ White Wine (WWB, 93) is still shining brightly. With 44% Roussanne, the nutty and beeswax tones are simply delightful, as the silky smooth mouthfeel delights. I was not surprised by their new release 2017 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine (WWB, 95) which was gorgeous right out of the gate, showing amazing freshness, tension and complexity. This is one for the cellar. Now at the eleven year mark, the 2009 Tablas creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ Red Wine (WWB, 95) is every bit as good as the new release ’17 and I was floored with the degree of acidity and range in this very pretty wine. I can see this beautiful wine cellaring well for at least another ten years.
Needless to say, this was a highly memorable tasting with Jason as we reveled in truly some of the great, age-worthy wines out of Paso Robles. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://tablascreek.com Here are my tasting notes from what was an incredible journey back into time with Tablas Creek.
White Wines:
2001 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel Blanc’ White Wine- A brightly colored blend of 44% Roussanne with 22% Viognier, 18% Grenache Blanc and 16% Marsanne, the nutty and melon aromatics literally fly out of the glass, with shades of lychee and honeysuckle playing second fiddle. The palate is silky smooth, showing an unctuous err, no doubt from the high proportion of Roussanne. Layers of banana, Macadamia nut, cantaloupe and Pink Lady apple collide with minerals, brioche and beeswax tones on the seductive palate. This is silky smooth at this juncture with a decade of life to go. Enjoy this on the warmer side, where the full aromatic and flavor range can be fully on parade. Drink 2020-2028- 93
2016 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit Blanc’ White Wine- Truly one of the outstanding Rhone style wines made in California, the 2016 ‘Espirit Blanc’ is a compelling blend of mainly Roussanne (75%), with smaller portions Grenache Blanc and Picpoul Blanc. Ripe banana and lychee aromatics meld with shades of starfruit, sourdough and saline drenched pear all take shape in the glass. The palate shows not only a wonderful sense of astringency but a silky smooth texture and an exceedingly long finish that lingers long on the tongue. Showing a marvelous combination of weight and acidity, the 2016 ‘Espirit Blanc’ is truly one of a kind wine that has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 95
Red Wines:
2000 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ Red Wine- Taken from an even growing season and still hanging tough, now at the twenty year mark, the 2000 ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ is a gorgeous blend of Mourvedre (35%), Syrah (26%), Grenache (25%) and Counoise (14%). Layers of kirsch cordial and smoky tones collide with baking spices and suggestions of Linzer torte that all meld together on the nose. The palate is silky smooth, offering a silky texture and downright delicious layers of black cherry compote, dried thyme, smoked brisket and black olive tapenade, with damp earth undertones. A complete wine at this stage, enjoy this over the next several years while the core of acidity remains. Drink 2020-2025- 93
2005 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ Red Wine- 2005 was another moderately warm vintage that saw gradual ripening in the vineyards. The 2005 ‘Espirit’ is primarily Mouvedre (44%) with 26% Grenache, 25% Syrah and a touch of Counoise. The ripeness is evident on the nose with rich red and dark fruits that collide with shades of coffee grounds, smoked brisket and green olive tapenade accents. The palate shows a very soft mouthfeel and wonderful length, delivering ripe currants, red cherry candy, bulls blood, and shades of black tea and exotic spices that all meld brilliantly together. The combination of weight and tension makes this really thrive. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 94
2009 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ Red Wine- One of my all-time favorite ‘Espirit’ bottlings, it has been several years since I have visited this beautiful wine. Running into the third consecutive year of regional drought, 2009 saw warm conditions but gradual ripening and lower than normal yields. The 2009 ‘Espirit de Beaucastel’ features mostly Mourvedre, Syrah and Grenache, with just a splash of Counoise. The high-toned perfumed aromatics from the Grenache really add to the enjoyment with potpourri and red rose petals that deftly combine with shades of red currants and red cherry candy alongside dusty terroir notes. The palate is seamless, effortlessly gliding across the mid-palate, delivering gorgeous layers of red fruits, creosote, green olive and baking spices. The extremely good length further accentuates this gorgeous bottling that has at least another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2030- 95
2013 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine- Sourced from another warm and drought vintage in Paso Robles, leading to slightly lower yields but excellent ripening. This wine is also mainly Mourvedre (40%) with smaller portions Syrah (28%), Grenache (22%) and Counoise (10%). Ripe red fruits dominate the nose with layers of bacon fat and green olive tapenade alongside dusty terroir on this evocative bouquet. The palate is layered and shows great acidity and weight, with an exceedingly long finish. Layers of bright red fruits dance with citrus rind, smoked brisket and shades of peat moss. Slightly more on the elegant side and fantastic to savor now, I can imagine this cellaring for a decade or more to come. Drink 2020-2032- 94
2017 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Espirit de Tablas’ Red Wine is another scintillating wine from this storied Paso Robles estate. This was for some a challenging vintage with severe heat spikes in August, which shut down vines in some sections of the region. The nose here is literally thrilling with high-toned red rose petals that collide with shades of guava puree, charcuterie and Black Forest Cake, creating seriously good range aromatically. The palate has wonderful depth and purity of fruit, with an err of elegance. Red cherry candy, guava puree, Mandarin orange rind and bulls blood flavors collide with minerals and smoky undertones on the palate. Only an infant right now, the 2017 ‘Espirit de Tablas’ red wine will be exceedingly long lived. Drink 2020-2035- 95