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Owen Bargreen

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Killer new wines by Giovanni Manzone.

Giovanni Manzone

January 20, 2022

I have long admired the wines from Barolo. One of the region’s outstanding producers, Giovanni Manzoni was founded back in 1925 when Giovanni Manzone purchased 'Ciabot del Preve' (the Parish Priest house) and he started the winemaking in Monforte d’Alba. During the years the Manzone family purchased important vineyards on the historic hill of ‘Castelletto’ and ‘Gramolere’ two top crus in  Monforte d'Alba. In the last several years Mauro (2005) and Mirella Manzone (2012) joined their father Giovanni in the management of the winery. Mauro and Mirella are graduates from the famed Oenology School of Alba. Manzone estate is located in Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, in the southeastern portion of the Langhe hills. Manzone owns 8.5 hectares (about 20 acres) of vineyards and uses estate-grown grapes only. The entire production is roughly 45,000 bottles per year.

I love the Manzone wines and have bought many of these wines over the years, particularly the well-priced ‘Bricat’ which consistently over-delivers for the price. I absolutely loved the 2016 Giovanni Manzone ‘Bricat’ Barolo (OB, 93) which has a striking ability to please right now with its plush texture and beautiful core of red fruits. Learn more about this famed Barolo estate at http://www.manzonegiovanni.com Here are notes from the outstanding new wines by Manzone.



2017 Giovanni Manzone ‘Le Ciliegie’ Barbara D’Alba- The 2019 ‘Le Ciliegie’ Barbera is a beautiful wine that was aged for 16 months in large puncheons prior to bottling. The beautiful bouquet really impresses with red rose petals, wintergreen and tangerine peel tones that combine with loamy soils on the nose. The palate is very fresh and shows good astringency as layers of delicate red fruits collide with lemon rind, white rose water and copious minerals. Nicely textured, and very nervy, with a long finish, this comes off a bit tightly wound and can benefit from a one hour decant if enjoying in its vibrant youth. Drink 2022-2030- 90


2019 Giovanni Manzone ‘Le Ciliegie’ Dolcetto D’Alba- The youthful 2019 Giovanni Manzone ‘Le Ciliegie’ Dolcetto D’Alba unveils a soft and inviting mouthfeel with layers of red currants, toasted hazelnuts and green peppercorns alongside citrus embers on the palate. Filled with minerality and a polished mouthfeel, this beautiful Dolcetto is sure to impress for at least another decade. Drink 2022-2033- 91


2019 Giovanni Manzone ‘Il Crutin’ Nebbiolo- The 2019 ‘Il Crutin’ is a beautiful wine even at the two year mark. Red florals and Satsuma orange rind combine with ripe red cherry and guava tones aromatically. The palate is very fresh and polished, with refined tannins that frame a core of bright red fruits and stony minerals. This drinks better after a one hour decant. Drink 2022-2029- 90


2016 Giovanni Manzone ‘Gramolere’ Barolo- The polished and dense 2017 Giovanni Manzone ‘Gramolere’ Barolo already shows beautifully following a one hour decant. Bright red rose petals and cranberry tones deftly combine with leather and suggestions of Asian spices on the nose. The palate is soft and round, yielding a generous sense of mouthfeel, as well as beautiful length. After more air the core of beautiful red fruits combine with silky tannins and tobacco leaf flavors. Really good even now, this wine surely has another fifteen years in front of it — and potentially more.  Drink 2022-2035- 92


2016 Giovanni Manzone ‘Bricat’ Barolo- Delicious to consume right now in its heady youth, the outstanding  2016 ‘Bricat’ is intense Barolo that will have a long life ahead of it. White truffle shavings, red currants, pipe tobacco and intense red fruit flavors all deftly combine on the palate. With more air the wine gains more non-fruit complexity with freshly tilled soils, sour red fruits and copious minerals coming through, with grippy tannins. Finishing very long, this is exceedingly gratifying wine to consume now, as this bigger style of Barolo will carry one for another fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2022-2038- 93


2016 Giovanni Manzone ‘Castelletto’ Barolo- Also highly compelling to consume even in its heady youth, the rich and layered 2016 Giovanni Manzone ‘Castelletto’ Barolo is a mesmerizing wine to consume, as this is now the second opportunity I have had to taste this beautiful wine over the past year. Right now at six year mark the wine displays a dazzling array of bright red fruits alongside serious tension and a soft mouthfeel. On the intense and hedonistic side, this finishes very long with red cherry candy and guava notes alongside citrus ember and stony undertones. Brilliant to consume now, be sure to give this an hour in the decanter if enjoying in its full-throttle youth. Drink 2022-2038- 93



← Andrew RichLaurent Perrier 'Grand Siècle' Champagne →
 

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