Many years back I heard from Christophe about his new project, Champagne Christophe Baron (CCB) and I could hardly believe my ears. “We are doing 100% Pinot Meunier” he exclaimed. “And Zero Dosage!” “Wow! Now that is something I have to try!” I chimed back. The magnum only and mailing list-only Champagne Christophe Baron are all zero dosage bottlings that showcase 100% Pinot Meunier. I think you would be hard-pressed to find Pinot Meunier this good in the world. Don’t get me wrong, I love Charles Mignon and MV Krug who do some great PM wines. I just love the density and flavor/aromatic range of this varietal when it is done right.
Maestro Christophe Baron was born into an exceedingly long line of Champagne vignerons, with a history that dates back as far as 1677. He trained in Avize (Champagne) and Beaune before moving to the United States and founding one of North America’s iconic brands, Cayuse Vineyards. Baron’s estate in champagne includes 3 hectares (7.5 acres) surrounding the villages of Charly-sur-Marne, Crouttes-sur-Marne and the hamlet of Porteron, and its vineyard holdings are made up of only very old parcels of Pinot Meunier.
The wines are big and bold with serious weight and underlying finesse. Please don’t consume these in a champagne flute, as they really need a Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc glass, or a Riedel tasting glass. They also need a lot of time when opened and I recommend letting them sit for least 30 minutes prior to consuming. Finally, make sure to not serve these wines cold. They are best served at 42-45 degrees — or warmer!
2018 was sunny and dry in champagne. Many people are thinking that this might be an exceptional vintage that produced a generous crop and a riper, fleshier style of wines. Compared to the 2017s, I think that these are a touch better overall, and more geared towards weight and flavor density instead of linearity. There is little doubt that the new 2018 CCB wines are generous and rich wines that have some seriously good aging potential. For my palate this is the finest overall lineup of CCB that I have tasted since its inception. Here are my reviews of the exceptional 2018 champagnes by Champagne Christophe Baron (mailing list only) and learn more at https://champagnechristophebaron.com/
2018 Champagne Christophe Baron ‘Les Hauts Blanches Vignes’ Champagne- Seriously impressive in this warm vintage, the 2018 Champagne Christophe Baron which was planted back in 1969. This is an intense location with a southwestern exposure and a steep, 19 degree slope, the vineyard sits at 384 feet above sea level. On the nose there are toasty marzipan and nutmeg tones that combine with suggestions of cantaloupe and guava, giving this an exotic edge. The palate is deep and rich with a silky texture and very refined mousse upon entry. Finishing long with bright citrus fruits and copious minerals, this is a dashing, deep Champagne with loads of aging potential. Try to resist this beauty for at least another year. Drink 2024-2038- 97
2017 Champagne Christophe Baron ‘Le Dessus Du Bois Marie’ Champagne- The 100% Pinot Meunier 2018 Champagne Christophe Baron ‘Le Dessus Du Bois Marie’ Champagne shows off a beautiful honey color in the glass. Shades of salted oily Brazil nut, quince, nectarine skin and fresh guava all fill the nose. The palate is big and bold, showing off serious weight from the heat of the vintage. However, this is very seamless champagne that shows both power and beautiful tension. The salty tones, viscosity and underlying finesse really make this check all the boxes. Just wait for the exceedingly long finish in this masterclass by Christophe Baron. Enjoy this beauty now but give it about 30 minutes in the decanter to take in the full flavor and aromatic range. Drink 2023-2039- 97
2018 Champagne Christophe Baron ‘Les Alouettes’ Champagne- Even better than the 2017 bottling, the Brut Nature ‘Les Alouettes’ is less tightly wound than the 2017, showing a touch more flavor density and intensity. Intense ginger and white peach aromas combine with salted mixed nuts and a dusting of peat moss on the nose. The palate is plump and round, as the generous texture really entices. This has both the weight and bright acidity to cellar well for at least another fifteen years — and potentially more. I would consider giving this one more year of bottle time. Drink 2024-2039- 97
2018 Champagne Christophe Baron ‘Les Closeaux’ Champagne- This is a new wine to this portfolio, as the ‘Les Closeaux’ comes from a 1.49 acre parcel located in the town of Crouttes-sur-Marne. Vines from this site were first planted all the way back in 1925. Very dense like the other wines of this lineup, this offers concentrated gooseberry, pear, flint, lemon rind and starfruit flavors alongside pastry crust and cardamom notes on the palate. Full of tension, with serious weight, this beauty is just starting to hit its stride. Initially a bit reticent, give it 20-30 minutes in the decanter if consuming now to indulge in the full range of flavors. Drink 2023-2038- 96