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Owen Bargreen

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Eminent cardiologist, Dr. Medaiah Revana founded one of the great Oregon wineries, Alexana, named after his daughter. 

Eminent cardiologist, Dr. Medaiah Revana founded one of the great Oregon wineries, Alexana, named after his daughter. 

Alexana

July 16, 2018

One of the great lineups in Oregon, Alexana was founded many years back by Dr. Madaiah Revana, a famed cardiologist. Named after Dr. Revana’s daughter,  Alexana is a gorgeous winery set in the Red Hills in the center of the Willamette Valley. The expansive winery utilizes both gravity flow and Gold LEED certification. Bryan Weil serves as head winemaker and has greatly impressed with his solid range of new wines. Bryan previously worked at Domaine Serene before heading back to Oregon State University, where in 2008 he graduated with a degree in Enology and Viticulture. Bryan then served as assistant winemaker at Hogue Cellars in Prosser, Washington, prior to being named Alexana winemaker in in 2012.

Bryan has crafted a killer new lineup of wines. Look to his  2016 Alexana ‘Revana Vineyard’ Riesling (WWB, 92) which is one of the top Riesling bottlings out of Oregon that I have sampled this year showing an impressive mouthfeel and ripe fruit flavors. His range of red wines were exceptional. The 2015 Alexana ‘East Blocks Volcanic Soils’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) is a downright stunner, with marvelous tension and mouth-watering acidity to go with the excellent range and earthy tones. Learn more about this exciting winery at http://www.alexanawinery.com Here are the outstanding  new release wines by Alexana. 

Alexana 2018 lineup.jpg

2016 Alexana ‘Revana Vineyard’ Riesling- The 2016 ‘Revana Vineyard’ Riesling by Alexana is sourced from a 3 acre parcel that is partially sheltered by trees. This starts off with bright starfruit and lemongrass aromatics with a touch of green papaya. With just a kiss of sweetness, the tart minerality of this wine shines through as this is beautifully astringent. Green apple and green papaya flavors connect with lemon oil tones. This goes to show that the white wines are just as good from this top Oregon producer. While the wine is probably best in its youth, this has the tension to cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2018-2028- 92

2016 Alexana ‘Terroir Series’ Pinot Gris-  The 2016 Alexana ‘Terroir Series’ Pinot Gris is the follow up to the absolutely outstanding 2015 bottling. Bright starfruit and cantaloupe aromatics hit you immediately. Wonderfully astringent, with less weight than the 2015 bottling, the wine showcases orange zest, honeydew melon and starfruit flavors with a touch of baking spices. Lithe and light on its feet, this outstanding Pinot Gris best enjoyed in its youth. Drink 2018-2022- 91

2015 Alexana ‘Terroir Series’ Chardonnay- Showing off a golden hue, this wine starts off with lovely lemon curd, brioche and kumquat aromatics. The mouthfeel is really nice, as is the astringency at play. Brioche, lemon zest and suggestions of roasted pineapple give this an exotic edge. This is another outstanding effort by Alexana. Drink 2018-2024- 92

2015 Alexana ‘Signature’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Dundee Hills of the Willamette Valley, this wine starts off with cherry cola, bramble and damp earth aromatics, showing nice range. The palate is smooth and seductive, showcasing a nice combination of red and dark fruits with forest floor and peat moss elements. Rich and layered, this will cellar marvelously for another decade or more. This is exactly what you would want in a warm vintage Pinot Noir. Drink 2018-2028- 92

2015 Alexana ‘Single Clone Pommard’ Pinot Noir- The Pommard Clone wine is sourced from Alexana’s estate vineyards. This begins with forest floor and black cherry aromatics. The palate is lush and has a wonderful combination of earthy, fruity and mineral tones. This also will age remarkably well. Drink 2018-2028- 92

2016 Alexana ‘East Blocks Volcanic Soils’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from a site roughly 600 feet in elevation, the ‘East Blocks Volcanic Soils’ Pinot Noir begins with aromatics of dark cherry, roasted figs and a touch of forest floor. The mouthfeel is plush and lovely, as the wine reveals a good combination of red fruits and citrus components that sit alongside a wonderful tension. Lithe and wonderfully light on its feet, the acidity of this wine makes it particularly difficult to not enjoy right now. Drink 2018-2028- 93

2016 Alexana ‘West Blocks Sedimentary Soils’ Pinot Noir- This standout wine starts off with orange zest, cran-pomegranate and red cherry flavors with a touch of damp earth. The mouthfeel and feminine quality of the wine are gorgeous. Red cherry candy, red raspberry cordial, orange rind and forest floor flavors collide and entice the senses. Drink 2018-2028- 93

2016 Alexana ‘Revana Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The Revana Vineyard boasts 18 soil types and 10 different clones of Pinot Noir. Earthy aromatics connect with dark fruits on the nose. The palate is rich as the wine shows off dark cherry, loganberry jam and suggestions of forest floor flavors that connect with the rich mouthfeel. This is another outstanding bottling by Revana that will cellar well for 10-15 years. Drink 2018-2030- 93

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Fantastic photo here of one of Washington's great winemaking talents, Bob Bertheau. 

Fantastic photo here of one of Washington's great winemaking talents, Bob Bertheau. 

Chateau Ste. Michelle

July 12, 2018

How do you produce millions of bottles of wine that are all of high quality? I am always blown away with how Chateau Ste. Michelle continues this trend as they produce a staggering 8 million bottles of Riesling a year — and it is all very well-made. Chateau Ste. Michelle is the oldest winery in Washington state. Originally founded as the American Wine Company, it is also one of the area’s most beautiful wineries, located on 87 acres that was once a rural farm. Many great Washington winemaking talents have come through Chateau Ste. Michellle, from Dan Wampfler to Jason Gorski. Chateau Ste. Michelle owns some of the state’s historic vineyards including the Cold Creek Vineyard which was founded in the 1970s. 

They have utilized the talents of superstar winemaker, Bob Bertheau, for many years. Originally from Seattle, Bob has a MS in enology from the famed program at UC Davis. His new wines are seriously good, showing wonderful range and impressive quality to price ratio. The new 2017 Chateau Ste. Michelle Rose (WWB, 89) was almost instantly sold out. This is just a killer value at around ten dollars and shows wonderful minerality and delicate red fruit flavors. One of the great Riesling bottlings in the state, particularly at this price point, the 2016 Chateau Ste. Michelle ‘Eroica’ Riesling (WWB, 91) is the byproduct of one of the regions great partnerships between Chateau Ste. Michelle and epic winemaker Dr. Ernst Loosen. This is a Riesling to purchase by the case. Learn more about these fantastic new wines at https://www.ste-michelle.com Here are the recent releases by Chateau Ste. Michelle. 

2017 Chateau St. Michelle Rose- The label implies a crisp Rose and that’s what you are delivered. Light red fruit aromatics connect with a zingy acidity that sits through the drinking experience. Seriously good, pair this awesome new Rose release with Kushi oysters. Drink 2018-2022- 89

2017 Chateau Ste. Michelle ‘Midsummer’s White’ White Wine- This enticing white wine is a complex blend of Chenin Blanc, Muscat Canali, Riesling, Gewurtztraminer and Semillon. The nose has candied ginger, white grapefruit and gooseberry aromas. Slightly sweet, with sterling minerality, green apple, gooseberry, teaberry and pink grapefruit flavors combine a beautiful melange. Enjoy while the strong minerality remains. Drink 2018-2022- 91

2015 Chateau Ste. Michelle ‘Canoe Ridge Estate’ Chardonnay- The ‘Canoe Ridge Estate’ Chardonnay starts off with hints of butterscotch, toasty brioche and roasted macadamia nut on the nose. This warm vintage white shows really good mid-palate weight as tree and citrus fruit flavors mingle with creamy overtones. Drink 2018-2024- 90

Chateau Ste. Michelle Eroica Riesling.jpg

2016 Chateau Ste. Michelle ‘Eroica’ Riesling- Made in the Kabinette style, this Riesling begins with aromas of wet stone, Gravenstein apple and kumquat on the nose. In the glass the wine reveals a wonderful tension as green apple, wet stone and white flower flavors all mingle together nicely. The weight and minerality really drive this wine that shows a kiss of sweetness. Drink 2018-2024- 91

2014 Chateau Ste. Michelle ‘Cold Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Planted in the 1970s the Cold Creek Vineyard is a warm site that gained a strong reputation for some of the state’s best Cabernet. Deeply colored and perfumed, this warm vintage wine begins with cigar ash, Hoisin sauce and blackberry cobbler on the nose. The palate has really good weight and a nice sense of place. Blackberry cordial, mocha and tar flavors all combine nicely in the glass. Drink 2018-2028- 92

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Really nice photo of The Johnson Family, proprietors of Purple Star and Muret-Gaston wineries.

Really nice photo of The Johnson Family, proprietors of Purple Star and Muret-Gaston wineries.

Purple Star & Muret-Gaston

July 11, 2018

Boasting an excellent new lineup of Washington wines, Purple Star and Muret-Gaston wineries were started by Kyle and Amy Johnson in 2008. They have a wonderful sense of giving and donate 15% of their wine sales to Children’s Hospital, benefiting those who are in need of uncompensated care. Sourcing from some great Washington vineyards like Weinbau, and Heart of the Hill, these wines are polished and well-structured even in warm vintages. Intriguingly their winery, Muret-Gaston is named after both of their family ancestors, the Murets and Gastons, who were relative neighbors living in adjacent villages in southern France. All the new release wines were seriously good, completing what is a pretty impressive new lineup of limited-production wines. 

Kyle Johnson is a soft-spoken, down to earth guy. Not someone who enjoys the spotlight, Kyle has a great handle on a huge range of varietals in the cellar. Originally from Kennewick, Washington, Kyle has seen the Washington wine industry rapidly develop over the past few decades. Holding a degree from Washington State University, he previously worked for Chateau Ste. Michelle and Olsen Estates prior to starting his own venture. I really enjoyed his 2014 Purple Star Syrah (WWB, 90) which showed wonderful poise and richness from this exciting vintage for red wines. Even better was the 2014 Muret-Gaston Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 92) which was sourced from the Klipsuun Vineyard in Red Mountain and shows wonderfully layered and complex flavors and aromatics. Learn more about these great wineries at http://www.muret-gaston.com and http://www.purplestarwines.com Here are the great new wines by Purple Star and Muret-Gaston. 

Muret-Gaston Chardonnay.jpg

2016 Muret-Gaston Chardonnay- There is a wonderful texture to the wine that adds to the the tree and citrus fruit flavors. With a slightly smoky element, the wine finishes long with vanilla cream. This is a great value out of Red Mountain. Drink 2018-2022- 90

2015 Purple Star Cabernet Sauvignon- Inky in color, this shows a dark fruit bouquet with a touch of sagebrush woven in. Forward in fruit, yet having some good restraint, dark cherry, blackberry and roasted fig flavors connect with the minerality. Drink 2018-2024- 89

2014 Purple Star Syrah- This deeply colored wine was sourced from the Columbia Valley AVA. The nose is really lovely with dark fruits and a touch of milk chocolate creating a lovely bouquet. Decadent and rich, this showcases lovely dark fruits with dark chocolate cake and nutmeg flavors that connect with the good tension. The is really good stuff considering the price. Drink 2018-2024- 90

2015 Muret-Gaston ‘GSM’ Red Wine- The ‘GSM’ is a silky blend of Grenache (41%), Syrah (15%) and Mourvedre (41%). The smoky and meaty elements from the Mourvedre are evident right now, as is the pretty floral edge from the Grenache. This has a great combination of weight, tension and salinity, as this beautiful wine covers a really good range of red and dark fruits with a smoky character from the Mourvedre. Ripe and downright delicious, enjoy this excellent wine in the short-term. Drink 2018-2024- 91

2015 Muret-Gaston Syrah- Soruced from the Edyth Mae Vineyard, in the Yakima Valley, this begins with aromas of Hoisin sauce, blackberry pie and roasted figs. The palate is round and generous revealing wonderful dark fruit flavors that connect with the mineral edge. Drink 2018-2024- 90

2015 Muret-Gaston Petit Verdot- Sourced from the Yakima Valley, this begins with aromas of black olive tapenade, milk chocolate and wild blackberry preserves. The wine unveils downright delicious dark fruit flavors with an herbal edge. Ripe and juicy, this needs a rich ribeye steak. Drink 2018-2024- 91

2014 Muret-Gaston Cabernet Sauviginon- This deep colored warm vintage Cabernet is sourced from the Klipsun Vineyard in the Red Mountain AVA. The highly perfumed nose entices with black cherry compote and sagebrush with milk chocolate. The palate is refined and has a great sense of place. Dark fruits mingle with a touch of red currant, red bell pepper and chocolate cake. An outstanding effort, this great Cabernet will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2018-2028- 92

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It was a truly memorable experience at John Howie Steak as we enjoyed some incredible food and exemplary wine service.

It was a truly memorable experience at John Howie Steak as we enjoyed some incredible food and exemplary wine service.

The John Howie Steak Wine Program

July 10, 2018

One of the great wine lists in the Seattle area that pairs marvelously with melt in your mouth steaks, John Howie Steak is a must stop for wine lovers. John Howie has assembled a superstar lineup of sommeliers that will impress you with their knowledge and service. Having dined here on many occasions, I always have been highly impressed with the consistent quality of wine service at John Howie. It is truly some of the finest wine service in the Pacific Northwest. Chef John Howie has been in the restaurant industry for decades. He notes how important it was to craft a great wine program that exemplifies fantastic service. He explains “When you are in a restaurant like John Howie Steak it is an expectation that you have great wine program. We want our wine service people to be educated and to fully understand how they can bring a great wine experience to our guests and do it in a way that makes the guests comfortable. When  sommelier Erik Liedholm and I got together roughly 17 years ago at Seastar he asked for several things like to use the correct varietal stemware and the correct temperature for the different wines. When we opened John Howie Steak we wanted to improve our wine experience. Our wine director, Chris Lara, is constantly looking for ways to enhance our wine program, make it different and unique and special for our guests. I love that because we do the same thing with the food, the service and so why not do the same thing with the wine?” Sommelier Erik Liedholm, gives his explanation of how he initially derived the John Howie wine program nearly a decade ago. He mentions “When we opened John Howie Steak back in 2009 one of the first parameters for the wine list was – trust. Trust that the ultimate curator of the list (in this case Chris Lara)  will be able to follow the company ‘wine ethos.’ That is, always follow the direction of the cuisine and offer enough depth that guests can splurge but also offer great deals too. Just because a wine is inexpensive, doesn’t mean it is of poor quality. Avoid the ‘record store clerk attitude’ - we are creating wine lists, not dissertations on viticulture, so try not to take yourself too seriously and have fun. We wanted to pepper the list with wines that guests know with wines that reflect your own personality and passion and always, always listen to your guests.” They absolutely have followed this approach  as their list has really good range but also offers standout Washington wines that pair brilliantly with steak such as Leonetti Cellar Merlot or Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Chef John Howie notes the importance of educating wine professionals at a great steakhouse,  which in turn enhances the guest experience. He explains  “What we do here that is different from everyone else is that all servers carry the minimum of level one sommelier certification. I fully believe that we have more level 2 sommeliers than any other restaurant group on the west coast. Sommelier Erik Liedholm, will teach the introductory class to any staff member who wants to learn. We take care of that for them. They don’t have to pay for their certification ands it makes a big difference. You have servers and back servers who can all talk about the wine. I think that shows that we really care about the wine program.” Advanced sommelier and John Howie Steak wine director, Chris Lara, is currently studying for the coveted master somm certification. Chris has some of the best wine service that I have seen, regardless of Michelin star rating. Chris describes his wine service as “Diligently following the Court of Master Sommeliers standards.” The wine list is really awesome, boasting a ton of wonderful Northwest selections.It is one of those lists that you really love taking the time to read. While not enormous, there are thoughtful local selections like the delightful 2017 Gramercy Cellars Rose, the 2014 L’Ecole No. 41 Merlot, 2016 Eyrie Pinot Gris, and a killer glass pour list. Looking to splurge on a first growth Bordeaux or pop a bottle of Krug? John Howie has that as well.

Chris Lara formalized the wine table service in 2016. Chris explained “For me it was a natural this is what the Court teaches and this is what we should do. I wanted it to be formal and that sense of there is no one else in town that will do this exact thing. Canlis has an amazing wine program and have phenomenal service but they rarely bring a table on the side.” Certified sommelier, Chris Arora, offers exemplary wine service. He gives his take on the importance of great wine service and explains “At John Howie we take pride in offering a higher level of service, and education is a large part of being able to achieve that. The difference between guests having a good experience, and a great one, can come from an explanation about what, and why they are enjoying things throughout their evening. The Sommelier team at John Howie continually pushes one another and the entire staff to have a better understanding of the selections we maintain on our list. And the constant rotations of local and international selections that we offer by the glass.”

Recently dining at John Howie Steak I noticed firsthand the impressive wine service while dining. Starting with a glass of John Howie Steak Signature Champagne from house Nomine-Renard, we were led through a wonderful dining experience. Advanced sommelier Chris Lara showed us how to open an older bottle using heated port tongs. This ingenious historic method, resurrected by the superstar sommelier team at Eleven Madison Park in New York roughly five years back, involves placing the red hot metal around the neck, it makes a clean break leaving the cork intact. The method originated in Portugal as an alternative to opening very old bottles of wine with corks that tended to crumble from age. The execution of this method at John Howie Steak is very dramatic added to a fantastic wine and food experience. It truly was a night to remember at John Howie Steak.

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A killer new Seattle wine bar, Claret is a not to be missed experience for their well-curated wine list and great small bites. 

A killer new Seattle wine bar, Claret is a not to be missed experience for their well-curated wine list and great small bites. 

Claret Wine Bar

July 9, 2018

An enticing, modern looking restaurant and wine bar in the Wallingford area, Claret is a great new stop if you are looking for an outstanding range of local and international wines with great casual fare. Dropping in we were immediately met by a certified sommelier, Jessica Gonser, who waited on us during dinner. The bottle list was pretty thoughtful with many world regions well represented, showing a particular nod to local wineries. Chris Horn serves as wine director, having roughly 30 years of restaurant experience. He has previously served as the wine service director at Wild Ginger.

Chris Horn has masterfully assembled a thoughtful, wide-ranging wine list that spans the globe.

Chris Horn has masterfully assembled a thoughtful, wide-ranging wine list that spans the globe.

Chris has amassed a great, highly focused list. Sitting down with him to talk about his creation he mentions “The background is trying to corral the world of wine in one place. You have a lot of freedom to look into the places. With Claret you don’t want it to be Purple Cafe but something great. One of the great experience’s at Purple is not only having the wine pairings but the flights where you can taste wines of the world in context. I wanted to create that experience in a small neighborhood wine bar you can’t have flights. We wanted to craft a more casual experience at Claret.” Chris came up with having two wines side by side, aptly named ‘duos.’ He explained “Duos was the idea that we can up with. Having an Argentinian Malbec against one from Cahors. You can have two different experiences and there is a lot that you can like about those things. We can create a neighborhood wine bar and also not ask the guests to focus and engage. If you are going back and forth between two wines then that makes it a lot easier. It doesn’t require the customer to work for you.” Claret is also working on creating a wholesale program where people can enjoy great wines like Gaja with very reasonable markup. Chris talks about this program, explaining “if we can take a $250.00 dollar bottle and charge them $3.00 an ounce, this can be really good for someone who just learning about wine but also are preparing for the Court of Master Sommeliers. The opportunity to taste Dageaneau is not something that people can always do.” 

Shaela Ward, Claret general manage talks about the wine team at this neighborhood wine bar. She denotes “We are really fortunate of the wine team that we are building here. We want to keep wine approachable and we are exited to talk wine with anyone who wants to chat. Our staff is educated to do a lot of fun comparisons.” She mentioned that she is working on utilizing their space for tasting groups and those studying for their WSET or somm exams. She explains “We are excited about the space and the community that we can bring. It is nice that we have fire pits out there for nighttime and we are ready for summer and Rose on the patio.” Chis Horn talked about the importance of having well-trained sommeliers for the Claret experience. He explains “Three nights a week we have Tyler Alden who is the director of education for thew Heavy Group; He is way smart and is sitting for the master somm exam and he will probably pass that exam test. Tyler has a really personal service style which adds to the patron experience. I am trying to be there as well and will come somm at the restaurant especially on the weekend. I live pretty close to there so it is my neighborhood wine bar as well. We want to always have someone around with the wine knowledge but we want to have someone personable waiting on you.”

Claret Meat and Cheese Plate.jpg

After some challenging choices I decided to start with a glass of the 2015 L’Ecole No. 41 Chardonnay (WWB, 90) which delivers a ton of value for the price. We were all hungry and fortunately opted for the cheese and meat platter which came with delicious honey and fig spread. The sheeps cheese in particular enticed. Claret is one of the few places in Seattle that has famed Nikolaihof wines available by the bottle. That proved to be a wonderful pairing with the meat and cheese plate, as the bright acidity cut nicely through the fatty texture of the rich cheese. The star of the show was definitely the rich liver mousse, delightfully earthy and impossible to resist.

Claret makes an excellent and tangy steak tartare that was wonderfully rich with a very smooth texture. I opted for their burger, which was perfectly cooked at medium rare. Messy but wonderfully rich, this is one of Seattle’s great burgers. We finished our meal off with some blind dessert wines paired by sommelier. One great finish of the night was the 2015 Brian Carter Winery ‘Opulento’ Dessert Wine (WWB, 90) which was a delicious treat to savor. While we did not utilize the outdoor space, next time we will return to sip wines from their well-curated list outside.  If you are looking for a great new spot for a great glass pour list or some excellent small bites, Claret is a must visit in Fremont.

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Linga Franca co-founder and CEO, Larry Stone, MS, is an uber-talented man in wine. The new Lingua Franca releases were truly outstanding across the board.

Linga Franca co-founder and CEO, Larry Stone, MS, is an uber-talented man in wine. The new Lingua Franca releases were truly outstanding across the board.

Interview with Larry Stone, MS, Co-Founder and CEO of Lingua Franca Wines

July 5, 2018

An exceptionally talented man, Larry Stone, MS, is the co-founder and CEO for one of the great Oregon producers of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Lingua Franca. Lingua Franca crafts some absolutely stunning wines that are not to be missed. I was particularly enthralled with his new release wines that were coming from the hot 2015 vintage and showed incredible tension in the glass. As a Master Sommelier, Larry Stone became the first American to win the prestigious Best International Sommelier in French Wines competition in Paris. His career spans 30 years as a restaurateur and sommelier at the Four Seasons, Charlie Trotter’s, and Rubicon Restaurant among others, I recently had the chance to sit down with this very busy man and chat wine. Larry has a wonderful story in wine and I think you will very much enjoy hearing more about his journey. Here is my interview with Larry Stone, MS, owner and winemaker of Lingua Franca.

WWB: Can you talk about the challenges with passing the master sommelier exam? What was the greatest hurdle for you? Do you still actively blind taste wines of the world?

LS: Working sommeliers have the most privileged position in the world to taste hundreds of new wines in a year.  And they also should frequently taste the wines they are serving to make sure that they are showing well and evolving as predicted.  So while I do taste wines blind sometimes, it is nothing in comparison with what I did while actively working in a restaurant.  The challenge in taking the Master sommelier examination was not really knowing what to expect.  We had no road map at all, only the knowledge that we would have three areas of responsibility.  We had no grid!  We didn't have access to anyone who had already taken the exam!  The part I had the most difficulty with was the completely unexpectedly hard service portion.  

WWB: What was it like Opening Rubicon restaurant with celebrity partners such as Robert de Niro and Robin Williams? Can you talk about constructing that exceptional wine list?

LS: Knowing that Robin Williams, Francis Ford Coppola and Robert DeNiro were partners did add to the public perception of glamour of the opening, which actually worked against us in building up expectations too high.  We had a pretty tight budget to work with to open with.  However, Drew Nieporent's team did an excellent job with Rockwell.  The big thrill for me was working with Drew and Daniel Johnnes.  I had very little contact with the celebrity owners until after the opening.  The wine list grew to its strong position over the first two years, especially as the local tech industry started to boom. 

WWB: How did you decide to found Lingua Franca wines?

LS: I helped to start Evening Land already with a guest, Mark Tarlov, in 1996. He only wanted to drink Jayer and Roumier off of the wine list, nearly every evening.  Since he was from NY I asked him to at least try a few West Coast Pinot that would be interesting and he said he didn't think that any place would be able to make wine of the quality of Burgundy.  I mentioned three places, two in California, but told him then that the very best place outside of Burgundy would be the Willamette Valley, especially the Eola-Amity Hills and especially the area near Seven Springs, which consistently made outstanding wines, proven to me in multiple times since the mid-1980s.  I loved Cristom, Bethel Heights and Adelsheim versions of the vineyard.  So when the company was founded, that was one of the three places we leased.  When I visited the vineyard I noticed an identically situated site across the gravel road and thought to myself, that would work just as well!  So without a plan to actually make wine, just to have the privilege and pleasure of developing a vineyard from scratch on an exceptional site, I figured out how to purchase the land and thought the rest would come.  Two years after planting the vineyard things started to fall in place.

WWB: Your new Chardonnay bottling, the 2015 Lingua Franca ‘Bunker Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 94) is an exceptional wine that has remarkable poise and richness. Can you talk about this spectacular new release?

LS: It’s all about the exceptional vineyard site, soils, slope, elevation, sensitive farming and vine age.  The winemaking must be meticulous too!  Thomas Savre is a very dedicated man who is passionate about doing justice to the vineyards we work with. Our selection of all the sites is thoroughly researched and tested and then we only select the finest vineyards to put on our single vineyard selections.  Bunker Hill's 23 year old vines, and rocky Witzel and Nekia soils are excellent for expressing minerality, tension, life.  

WWB: What are some of your favorite wines of the world?

LS: There are so many options today for wine lovers. I have been enjoying Oregon Chardonnay and Pinot Noir so my collection is growing fast in that department.  I still try to buy some good bottles of Burgundy. Then of course there has been a string of outstanding vintages in the Northern Rhone, so I have been buying quite a bit of those. Loire Valley red wines and Muscadet for eating oysters.  Austrian Riesling and some Grüner Veltliner from Wachau, Kracher dessert wines, Likewise Italy, which offers ever greater quality, from Tuscany (I love great estate Chianti Classico), or in Barolo and Barbaresco, Gattinara, Dolcetto, Barbera,  even now in Sicily, like Trinoro Passopisciaro or Terre Nerre and others.  I have a quite a few Napa Valley wines. Napa is undergoing a course correction by making slightly more restrained wines of more classic structure--look at Quintessa and Inglenook, Araujo, Colgin, Lokoya, Dominus.  Lewis Cellars has made quite rich but really fascinating bolder wines, that have structure and age well, too.  I love them as well.   Then there is Diamond Creek and Ridge Montebello, which for decades in blind tastings has been confused with First Growth Bordeaux. I could name dozens of others.  How long do you want a list to be? I cellar quite a diverse group of wines.  I am happy that I have bought and drunk all of these and will continue to do so.

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Carl Bowker is the talented winemaker and co-proprietor at Caliza. 

Carl Bowker is the talented winemaker and co-proprietor at Caliza. 

Caliza

July 3, 2018

Sitting down with Carl Bowker, he talked about his unique winemaking style, showcasing wonderful richness with tension in the bottle. During the Hospice du Rhone festival I was able to spend some time picking his brain and chatting wine. I have seen his winemaking evolve in the past few years to increasing the level of minerality, despite being faced with several uber-hot vintages in Paso Robles which is not an easy feat. He is producing some truly great wines that show a more unique side of the region as these wines provide wonderful intrigue. 

Spanish for “limestone" Caliza has a 20-acre vineyard largely set on limestone soils. The vineyard is predominantly comprised of hillsides with south-facing slopes which leads to maximum sun exposure. Set at 900-1200 feet above sea level in Templeton Gap area, the vineyard faces strong diurnal shifts which creates some nice tension in the wines. It is clear that planting so high has really helped the wines, particularly in the recent hot vintages. 

Founded by Carl and Pam Bowker, Caliza’s vineyard was planted near L’Aventure and Booker which has proven to be a really good investment. Carl Bowker graduated from Napa Valley College’s Viticulture and Enology associate program in 2004. He has emerged as one of the regions great winemakers. Check out the 2017 Caliza ‘Pink’ Rose (WWB, 90) which shows wonderful complexity and range. This is a gorgeous summer sipper. The 2014 Caliza ‘Cohort’ Red Wine (WWB, 93) is a downright stunner, showing wonderful richness, intensity and range. This intense wine will cellar marvelously over the next decade. Learn more about this great Paso Robles winery at https://www.calizawinery.com Here are the excellent new wines by Caliza. 

 

2017 Caliza ‘Pink’ Rose- An intriguing blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Counoise, this starts off with a bouquet of wild strawberry, red cherry candy and a touch of thyme. The palate is rich and shows a good tension with red fruits mingling with citrus rind. This delightful Rose has a marvelous texture and shows good richness. Drink 2018-2022- 90

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2017 Caliza ‘Kissin Cousins’ White Wine- The ‘Kissin Cousins’ is a blend of largely Grenache and Roussanne with a smaller portion Grenache Blanc. Cantaloupe, beeswax and honey mark the nose. The palate is viscous and shows really good richness. Ripe honeydew melon, starfruit and Pink Lady apple flavors persist on the palate. This is truly a standout white blend from Paso. Drink 2018-2024- 92

2014 Caliza ‘Companion’ Red Wine- The ‘Companion’ is one you’d like to have by your side, largely Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. This inky colored wine starts off with creme de cassis, mocha, and tar. The palate shows a good combination of weight and tension, with black fruits parading with dark chocolate shavings and strong minerality. Deep and delicious, this is an outstanding effort by Caliza. Drink 2018-2028- 92

2014 Caliza ‘Cohort’ Red Wine- A glass-staining purple, this wine is largely Petite Syrah and Syrah based. Blue fruits connect with blackberry and milk chocolate on the palate. The silky texture here is really outstanding, as is the deep and layered dark and blue fruit flavors that sit alongside some good tension. Distinctly Paso Robles, this outstanding wine will cellar well over the next decade but is nearly impossible to resist right now. Drink 2018-2028- 93

2014 Caliza ‘Sympatico’ Red Wine- The ‘Sympatico’ is a blend of Tempranillo (76%), Grenache (12%) and Monastrell (12%). Earthy and dark fruit tones dominate the nose. The palate shows really good weight and balance, with roasted fig, milk chocolate covered cherry and allspice flavors wonderfully combining together. As this builds in the glass and gets more air, it becomes even more difficult to put down. This is just an awesome red blend by the talented Carl Bowker. Drink 2018-2028- 93

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Don and Lori Watts serve as Swiftwater Cellars proprietors. They have an outstanding new lineup of wines. 

Don and Lori Watts serve as Swiftwater Cellars proprietors. They have an outstanding new lineup of wines. 

Swiftwater Cellars

July 2, 2018

One of the impressive Washington lineups of red and white wines, Swiftwater Cellars was founded by proprietors Don and Lori Watts who had great success in agriculture before starting their winery. Located in Cle Elum, the winery is set on the Rope Rider Golf Course and is a truly beautiful setting to try their great range of wines. Head winemaker Andrew Wisniewski has more than a decade of winemaking experience prior to joining Swiftwater Cellars. He has worked in New Zealand, Australia and more recently Oregon, where he served as Cellar Master for the Stoller Family Estate.

The new wines were impressive across the board. An outstanding new Riesling release is their 2016 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Riesling (WWB, 91) which shows a wonderful combination of poise and green apple flavors. This is a perfect wine for when temperatures warm up. I was very impressed with the 2015 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Proprietary Red’ Red Wine (WWB, 92) which is an outstanding dense and layered effort that will cellar marvelously over the next decade or so. Learn more about this exciting winery at https://www.swiftwatercellars.com Here are the great new wines by Swiftwater Cellars.

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2016 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Riesling- Petrol and honeysuckle fill the nose alongside some green apple high tones. The minerality here is really nice, as is the tart unripe peach and tart green apple flavors. This is outstanding. Drink 2018-2023- 91

2016 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Proprietary White’ White Wine- This wine is a combination of 100% barrel fermented (45% new French oak) Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. The nose from the toasty oak really delights, alongside marshmallow and grassy tones. The mouthfeel is wonderfully plush, as is the long and inviting, vanilla cream finish. This will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 91

2016 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Zephyr Ridge’ Chardonnay- Aged in 33% new French oak puncheons, this starts off with aromas of brioche, Meyer lemon and Pazzaz apple. Showcasing the classic Washington style of Chardonnay, the wine shows medium weight with mild to moderate oak influence. The balance is really nice here. Drink 2018-20240- 90

2015 Swiftwater Cellars Merlot- Aged for 18 months in 58% new French oak, this begins with aromas of black cherry and black tea. The palate has wonderful dark fruit flavors with good acidity. Rich and delicious, this will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 91

2015 Swiftwater Cellars Malbec- Sourced from the Heart of the Hill Vineyard on Red Mountain, this begins with smoky aromatics with dark cherry cordial and a touch of milk chocolate. The dense mouthfeel entices as the wine unveils cocoa powder, black plum and coffee ground flavors. This is an outstanding effort by winemaker Andrew Wisniewski. Drink 2018-2028- 91

2015 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Proprietary Red’ Red Wine- A blend of Red Mountain (66%), Walla Walla (19%) and Horse Heaven Hills (15%) fruit, this starts off with sagebrush, black tea and blackberry cobbler flavors. There is a really nice sense of balance to this wine, composed of all five Bordeaux varietals. Flavors of black tea, mocha, creme de cassis and sagebrush persist to a long, dark fruit and mineral driven finish. Drink 2018-2028- 92

2015 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Zephyr Ridge’ Cabernet Sauvignon- this wine was aged in 42% new French oak prior to bottling and is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. This has mocha and crushed mint on the nose. This has a velvety mouthfeel with medium weight dark fruit flavors that connect with a good tension. Drink 2018-2028- 91

2015 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Octave Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from a high elevation in the Walla Walla Valley, the Octave Vineyard Cabernet starts off with deep black olive, black tea and blackberry pie aromas. This has wonderful purity of friuit, showing off mocha, anise and boysenberry cordial favors with light tannins toward the back end. Enjoy this fantastic wine over the next decade or so. Drink 2018-2030- 92

2015 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A blend of largely Red Mountain fruit with a touch of Walla Walla mixed in, the ‘Reserve’ has 8% Petit Verdot blended in. Creme de cassis, anise, mocha and sagebrush aromatics fill the glass. The silky mouthfeel is lovely with mocha, anise, creme de cassis and sandalwood flavors. Delicious and rich, this will be a long-ager. Drink 2018-2030- 92

2015 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Boushey Vineyard’ Syrah- This saw 27% new oak for 18 months prior to bottling. This opens with a bouquet of smoked pork shoulder, dark cherry and coffee ground undertones. The palate is both lithe and rich, showing off Hoisin sauce, smoked brisket and dark cherry liquor flavors. This is seriously good wine that is best enjoyed in its youth with all its intensity and range. Drink 2018-2028- 92

2015 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Klipsun Vineyard’ Syrah- Smoke and dark fruits dominate the seductive nose. The mouthfeel and acidity of this wine is outstanding, as the wine showcases smoked brisket, black olive tapenade and black cherry cordial flavors. This has wonderful range here. Drink 2018-2026- 92

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Great photo here of the uber-talented winemaking team of Dan and Amy Wampfler.

Great photo here of the uber-talented winemaking team of Dan and Amy Wampfler.

Abeja

June 29, 2018

One of the standout Walla Walla wineries, Abeja not only has a stunning setting but a wine lineup that is even better than the sweeping views. I’ve enjoyed tasting here for many years and this years lineup rivals the best I’ve had from this estate. Set in the foothills of Walla Walla’s Blue Mountains, Abeja has seven luxury cottages, creeks, and gardens on the 32 acre property. Abeja relies on the winemaking talents of Dan Wampfler and Amy Alvarez-Wampfler. Both Dan and Amy have roughly a combined 30 years of winemaking experience. They work closely together on the wines and craft truly one of the great overall lineups of wine. 

One of the great Chardonnays in Washington, the 2016 Abeja ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay (WWB, 93) has an incredible bouquet and wonderful weight and texture. This outstanding wine will continue to evolve in the cellar. One of the great Washington Merlots that I have tried in the past year, the 2015 Abeja Merlot (WWB, 94) has incredible richness and tension from this warm vintage. This is one for the cellar. Learn more about this outstanding winery at http://www.abeja.net/ Here are the great new wines by Abeja.

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2016 Abeja ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay- This ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay was sourced from the Celilo, Connor Lee, and Mill Creek Estate vineyards. This begins with aromas of poached pear, butter and lemon cream. The palate has wonderful mouthfeel with green apple, poached pear and creme brulee flavors. This is every bit outstanding and will continue to evolve well for years in the cellar. Drink 2018-2028- 93

2016 Abeja ‘Beekeeper’s Blend’ Red Wine-  This primarily Cabernet Sauvignon wine begins with dark fruits and coffee grounds on the nose. The palate mimics the nose with dark fruits shining through and a wonderful tension. This is a really good value Cabernet out of Washington. Drink 2018-2024- 91

2015 Abeja Merlot-Needing more than a two hour decant, this Columbia Valley bottling was sourced from the Sagemoor Farms, Weinbau, Heather Hill, Kiona and Heart of the Hill Vineyards. This begins with aromas of mocha, anise, creme de cassis and sagebrush. The palate has incredible tension and richness with black tea, mocha, creme de cassis and leather flavors that mingle with nice liberality. This Merlot is truly up there with the top bottlings in the state. Drink 2018-2030- 94

2015 Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from the Sagemoor Farms, Bacchus, Weinbau, Heather Hill, Kiona and Destiny Ridge Vineyards, this Cabernet Sauvignon includes 8% Merlot with a touch of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The nose is intoxicating with creme de cassis, Turkish coffee and black tea. The palate is beautifully astringent with light tannins lining dark fruit and chocolate flavors. A show-stopper, this gorgeous effort will cellar marvelously for decades. Be sure to give this a very long decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2018-2035- 94

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Great looking logo for all Ambassador wines. 

Great looking logo for all Ambassador wines. 

Ambassador Wines of Washington

June 28, 2018

Founded in 2004, Ambassador sources from their estate vineyard on Red Mountain. Under the expert eye of Dick Boushey, the Ambassador Vineyard is a warm site planted to a host of varietals, from Grenache to Cabernet Sauvignon. Ambassador has a tasting room in the Woodinville Warehouse District which is a wonderful spot to try their awesome range of wines. Sarah Goedhart serves as Ambassador winemaker. Ambassador also relies on the consulting talents of Tom Rinaldi, formerly with Provenance and Hewitt wineries in Napa.

Ambassador is developing a strong reputation for their sold white wine, not sourced from the Ambassador Vineyard but from another great vineyard in the Yakima Valley. The 2017 Ambassador Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 91) has a marvelous texture and tension. This is a wonderful summer white wine that also carries a very reasonable price tag. I was impressed with the quality of the Grenache fruit from this vineyard and the latest release, the 2015 Ambassador ‘Estate’ Grenache (WWB, 92) has really good range and is unlike any Grenache in the state. Learn more about this great lineup of wines at http://www.ambassadorwinery.com Here are the new wines by Ambassador Wines of Washington

2017 Ambassador Rose- This limited production wine is comprised of both Syrah and Grenache. The highly perfumed nose hits you with guava, rose petals and red raspberry preserves. The weight and astringency here is simply outstanding. Fluid and lifted, the wine nicely combines citrus rind and red fruits alongside good tension. Drink 2018-2022- 90

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2017 Ambassador Sauvignon Blanc- A blend of 78% Sauvignon Blanc and the remainder Semillon, this starts off with a bouquet of honeysuckle and lychee. The palate is ripe and lithe, showing off grapefruit, lychee, kumquat and orange zest flavors. This is seriously good. Drink 2018-2022- 91

2015 Ambassador ‘Estate’ Grenache- One of the intriguing wines made from Washington, the 2013 Ambassador ‘Estate’ Grenache starts off with a bouquet of rose petals, red cherry candy and suggestions of guava puree. The palate has a nice combination of weight and tension, with a silky texture. A touch of blood orange rind towards the back end completes this outstanding wine. Drink 2018-2028- 92

2013 Ambassador ‘Estate’ Syrah- This inky colored Syrah begins with aromas of mill chocolate, blackberry cobbler and suggestions of black tea. The palate is lithe and lush, showing a wonderful minerality. Dark berry and chocolate flavors mingle nicely. Drink 2018-2025- 91

2015 Ambassador ‘Estate’ Merlot- The nose is distinctly milk chocolate with dark berries mingling. The palate has good depth and richness. Creme de cassis, milk chocolate and roasted fig flavors entice. Lightly tannic, this will cellar beautifully over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 91

2015 Ambassador ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This deep colored wine begins with loganberry liquor and milk chocolate on the nose. The palate is rich showing nice cassis, blackberry and mocha flavors. Drink 2018-2026- 90

2015 Ambassador ‘Plentipotentiary’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Merlot and cabernet Franc this begins with aromas of red bell pepper, chocolate and wild blackberry pie. The palate is both rich and lithe, showing dark currant, creme de cassis, coffee ground and blackberry flavors. Lightly tannic and rich, this will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 91

2015 Ambassador ‘Estate’ Petit Verdot- An intriguing blend of 87% Petit Verdot and 13% Grenache, this great wine by Sarah Goedhart starts off with smoke and dried herbs with dark chocolate shavings. White pepper with dark berry flavors entice. Outstanding and truly novel, enjoy this rich and terroir-driven wine over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 92

2015 Ambassador ‘Diplomat’ Red Wine- A blend of largely Cabernet Sauvignon, this begins with aromas of blackberry pie, milk chocolate and baking spices. The palate is silky smooth, delivering blueberry, blackberry and mocha flavors. Downright delicious, this outstanding wine by Sarah Goedhart will cellar well for another decade. Drink 2018-2028- 92

2015 Ambassador ‘Envoy’ Red Wine- The ‘Envoy’ is a blend of 27% Merlot, 21% Petit Verdot, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Malbec, 16% Cabernet Franc and 2% Syrah. This starts off with aromas of dill, red bell pepper, mocha and crushed mint. The palate shows good weight and length with dark cherry, loganberry and coffee ground flavors. Delicious and rich, this will cellar well over the next decade or so. Drink 2018-2028- 91

2015 Ambassador ‘Estate’ Malbec- This inky colored Malbec begins with aromas dark chocolate, roasted fig and hints of white pepper. The terroir is really lovely on the nose. Rich and layered, this has a really good combination of dark and blue fruits with good tension. Drink 2018-2028- 91

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Alex Guarachi is a visionary wine importer that is living the American dream.

Alex Guarachi is a visionary wine importer that is living the American dream.

Guarachi Family Wines

June 27, 2018

Founded by Alex Guarachi, Alex has a great American story. Originally coming to the Unite States from Chile on a soccer scholarship, Alex saw that there was a great market for South American wines in the United States. He began importing wines from Chile and Argentina into the United States, working out of his garage. Needless to say, this success story grew as he created what is now the second largest American importer of Chilean and Argentine wines. After some time Alex realized that he wanted to create his own label of wines and launched Guarachi Family Wines, which focused on high quality Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa and Pinot Noir from Sonoma. 

Alex continues to expand his operation and has acquired several of prestigious estate vineyards including the Meadowrock in the Atlas Peak appellation of Napa Valley and Sun Chase overlooking Gap’s Crown in the Sonoma Coast Petaluma Wind Gap. I recently had the opportunity to try the new release by Guarachi Family Wines and was hugely impressed. The 2014 Guarachi Family Wines Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 93) is a stunning rendition of the richness and terroir that you would expect from a great Napa Cab. This gorgeous wine will cellar marvelously for fifteen plus years. Alex is an inspired story of a hard-worker that has been living the American dream. Learn more about his new brand, Guarachi Family Wines at http://www.guarachifamilywines.com

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2014 Guarachi Family Wines Cabernet Sauvignon- Needing a one hour decant to be fully aroused the ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet shows wonderful dark fruits on the nose with pipe tobacco and leather undertones. The palate shows wonderful richness and tension with creme de cassis, red bell pepper, mocha and anise flavors with a touch of tobacco leaf. Layered and delicious, this outstanding wine will cellar marvelously for the next two decades. Drink 2018-2035- 93

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Great photo here of Delia Viader, who along with her son, Alan Viader, crafts one of the great Napa Valley red wines, the 2015 Viader 'Proprietary Red' Red Wine (WWB, 95) which showcases great poise, richness and Napa terroir (photo by Napa Valley R…

Great photo here of Delia Viader, who along with her son, Alan Viader, crafts one of the great Napa Valley red wines, the 2015 Viader 'Proprietary Red' Red Wine (WWB, 95) which showcases great poise, richness and Napa terroir (photo by Napa Valley Register).

Viader

June 27, 2018

Imagine the pressure of crafting one great Napa wine each year. Now imagine doing that for more than three decades, using entirely estate mountain fruit. Founding winemaker Delia Viader, PhD. has been creating one proprietary wine since 1986. She now combines with her son, Alan, to make this exceptional red wine, entirely sourced from their estate vineyard on Howell Mountain. Growing up, Delia spent many years in Europe, particularly in France. She holds a PhD. which was obtained at Sorbonne University in Paris as well as business degree from University of California, Berkeley. Her business acumen told her to purchase land in Napa Valley during the wine boom of the 1980s and she stated Viader while raising four children on her own. 

Delia was clearly a natural for the wine business, as she remembers her first great Pomerol wine as a teenager. She and her son, Alan, have crafted a remarkable new release with their 2015 Viader ‘Proprietary Red’ Red Wine (WWB, 95), a wine with poise, richness and wonderful Napa terroir. The wine which Delia affectionately calls ‘liquid cashmere’ has a wonderfully smooth mouthfeel and old world elegance. This plush, yet powerful wine will be a remarkable wine for the cellar. Learn more about this storied Napa winery at https://viader.com

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2015 Viader ‘Proprietary Red’ Red Wine- First crafted in 1989, the Viader ‘Proprietary Red’ Red Wine is a Howell Mountain red blend comprised of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon and 31% Cabernet Franc. The mother/son winemaking team of Delia Viader, PhD and Alan Viader have created an awesome new release red wine. Needing roughly two hours in the decanter to be fully awoken, the wine emerges with wonderful earthy terroir with red bell pepper, damp earth, sweet pipe tobacco and leather, all parading with dark and blue fruits on the nose. Silky smooth on the mid-palate, the wine unveils a wonderful sense of place. The tension, weight, mouthfeel and depth here is absolutely lovely. Blueberry compote, wild blackberry preserves, milk chocolate and roasted fig flavors all mingle beautifully in the glass. Lightly tannic, this gorgeous effort will have an exceedingly long life in the cellar. Drink 2019-2040- 95

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Great photo here of one of the great personalities in Washington wine, Trey Busch, in his Ziggy Stardust Block at the Elevation Vineyard. This steep and dramatic site is set on broken basalt which contributes to the stony qualities in the wine.

Great photo here of one of the great personalities in Washington wine, Trey Busch, in his Ziggy Stardust Block at the Elevation Vineyard. This steep and dramatic site is set on broken basalt which contributes to the stony qualities in the wine.

Interview with Trey Busch, Winemaker and Co-Owner of Sleight of Hand Cellars

June 26, 2018

One of the iconic figures in Washington wine, Trey Busch has a longstanding history in the industry. Trey finally was convinced to start his winemaking journey in 2000, moving to Walla Walla and working under the late Eric Dunham of Dunham Cellars. Trey is a delightful guy to spend time with. I recently visited with him at his winery and he is truly producing some of the best wine lineups in the state. He also shares my love for Pearl Jam and great French wines. I think you will very much enjoy hearing his story of wine. Here is my interview with Trey Busch, Winemaker and Co-Owner of Sleight of Hand Cellars.

WWB: How did you decide to star working for Eric Dunham as his assistant in 2000? Can you talk about winemaking techniques or industry secrets that you learned from Eric?

TB: I met Eric Dunham in the late 90’s through my friend and fellow winemaker Jamie Brown (Waters Winery). Jamie and I met when he owned a record store in Seattle. We became friends, and in 97 Jamie closed his store and move back to Walla Walla, where he was born and raised. I went to visit Jamie and through those visits, met Eric. I had already fallen in love with Walla Walla as a town. I was, at the time, a buyer for Nordstrom, and I had a brand new baby girl. I was working way too many hours, missing seeing my baby girl grow up, and dreamed of a way to escape to Walla Walla. Jamie had introduced me to Eric at a dinner party in 1998, and we quickly became friends as well. In the spring of 2000, we were in Walla Walla on another visit, and Eric had us over for dinner. He asked me if I would ever consider moving to Walla Walla, and I told him “Sure, if I had a job. But what would I do in Walla Walla?” He simply replied, “Come and work for me”. I mentioned that I did not know the FIRST thing about the wine business or winemaking. He said, “I can teach you how to make wine. You can help me with sales and marketing”.  And that was it. I asked my wife at the time if she would be willing to uproot our world and move to Walla Walla, and she said yes, so in July of 2000, I quit my corporate gig at Nordstrom, moved to WW, and went to work for Eric and his family.

The one big thing that I definitely took away from working for Eric for 2 years was the “art” of winemaking instead of the “science” of winemaking. Eric always said that you should know enough science to not screw things up. But he was an artist in so many ways, especially with his winemaking. He created wines using a wide array of vineyards, and he treated them like a palate of colors as if he were painting on canvas. By blending multiple vineyards, he could create these incredible layers of flavors, aromas, and textures in his finished wines, something you could not necessarily coax out of a single vineyard wine. That is something that I try to do today at Sleight of Hand. We work with multiple vineyards, and sometimes multiple blocks within a vineyard, to craft equally complex wines.

WWB: How did you decide to take a leap of faith and launch Sleight of Hand Cellars in 2007?

TB: I had been at Basel Cellars for 5 years after starting that project, and felt it was time to start my own project. I loved the wines I was making at Basel but always knew that I was just going to be an employee. I had met Sandy and Jerry Solomon while I was the winemaker at Basel, they loved the wines I was making, and I invited them out to Walla Walla in the fall of 2006. They fell in love with the town just as quickly as I had a decade earlier. I had a business plan already written, and Jerry said that he would look it over for me (he is an attorney with a practice in San Diego). After looking at my business plan, he was walking with Sandy down Palouse Street, and she said “OK, let’s do it. Let’s sell everything and move here”. She had no idea I had given Jerry that business plan for the winery, and I really did not give it to him with the intention of bringing him on as my partner. But he came to me and said he loved the business plan, wanted to be my partner in it, with the one caveat that I teach him how to make wine just like Eric taught me! So we launched the brand in June 2007, and here we are 11 years later!

WWB: What are some of the winemaking challenges when dealing with these recent hot vintages? 

TB: Finding freshness and balance in the wines while getting the fruit flavors that we look for in our wines. We work closely with our growers on yields and canopy management. And we make sure that our picking decisions lean on the earlier side instead of the later side. We will often make multiple passes to get different levels of acidity, flavors, and tannins within one block so we have more tools (colors on the palate) to work with for blending a complex, balanced, and fresh wine.

WWB: Can you talk about one of the stars of your great lineup, the 2015 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychadelic’ Syrah (WWB, 93). How do you capture the incredible range of flavors and aromatics in this sexy wine. 

TB: That is one of our favorite wines to make every year. We love the Rocks District. And we are fortunate to be partners in Stoney Vine Vineyard where the grapes are sourced for the Psychedelic every year. As I mentioned earlier, we rely on multiple picks within a vineyard to capture multiple levels of flavors and aromas, as well as textures. We utilize quite a bit of whole cluster (we foot crush the grapes for stem inclusion, which provides aromatic complexity and tannins). We utilize native fermentation, the yeast that live down in the rocks district are very aggressive, and our fermentations only last about 10-12 days. Once dry, we go to a combination of mostly older barrels and lately, mostly large format barriques (450 and 500L barrels). The wine goes to barrel “dirty” (heavy lees) and is never racked. Other than some small Sulphur additions and topping, we leave this wine alone for 15-16 months before bottling. It is the wine we do the least amount to, yet is always one of the most complex wines in our portfolio. It has all the amazing savory aromatics that we love about the rocks, but a beautiful, floral note not found on wines further east on the rocks. Texturally it is lush, but still with good acidity and freshness. I have found that these wines age surprisingly well.  

WWB: When you are not enjoying Washington wine, what are some of your favorite wines of the world?

TB: Wines from Chablis and the Northern Rhone.

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Les Trouves

June 25, 2018

Translated as ‘the found’ Les Trouves is a brilliant side project winery by superstar winemaker, Chris Peterson and Marty Taucher. This is a negotiant style project that was first started in 2015. The idea is to over-deliver in the bottle in terms of quality to price. While the Avennia wines are remarkable, both Chris and Marty wanted to create wines that afforded every-day consumption. The new wines are both truly outstanding values. The 2016 Les Trouves White Wine (WWB, 91) is a simply outstanding wine for the price, that shows wonderful range and layers. This gorgeous new release will continue to evolve over the next few years but is impossible to resist right now. Learn more about this great project at avennia.com Here are the two great new wines by Les Trouves.

2016 Les Trouves White Wine- 2016 Les Trouves White Wine is a compelling blend of 44% Viognier with 37% Marsanne and 19% Viognier. This golden hued wine starts off with a nose of honeysuckle, white rose and cantaloupe. Fat and round on the mouth, the wine shows a wonderful tension with rich poached pear, starfruit, kiwi and Key lime cream flavors. This dazzling wine is a stellar value. Drink 2018-2022- 91

2016 Les Trouves Red Wine- Straight out of the gate this largely Grenache based red wine exudes class once in the glass. Cigar ash, black cherry compote, and wild thyme aromas impress. The palate shows good freshness and evokes dark and red fruit flavors that sit alongside some nice tension. Bright and nicely balanced, I cannot help thinking how well this would pair with some wold class BBQ. Drink 2018-2024- 90

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Great photo of Lachini Vineyards owners, Ron and Marianne Lachini. 

Great photo of Lachini Vineyards owners, Ron and Marianne Lachini. 

Lachini Vineyards

June 25, 2018

Lachini Vineyards

 

Founded in 2001, Lachini Vineyards was started in the Chehalem Mountains AVA by Ron and Marianne Lachini. Today Lachini produces a wide range of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that show wonderful terroir and poise. Ron Lachini is one of the great personalities in Oregon wine. A down to earth guy, he is passionate about producing great Pinot Noir from his vineyard. Lachini has tasting rooms in both Oregon and Woodinville and it is definitely worth stopping by and checking out this great new lineup.  

Mattieu Gille heads winemaking at Lachini. Gille was born in Burgundy's Nuits St Georges, where his family has been making wine at their estate since the 16th century. Stating in 2014 he joined Lachini and needless to say, he has an excellent handle on PInot Noir and Chardonnay. An outstanding value Pinot Noir, the 2015 The Grape Republic Pinot Noir (WWB, 90) shows wonderful red fruit tones and a silky smooth mouthfeel. This is really an excellent value Oregon Pinot Noir. The 2015 Lachini Vineyards ‘Prima’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) is a downright stunner, showing dazzling minerality with wonderful weight and range. This is one for the cellar. Learn more about this great Oregon winery at https://www.lachinivineyards.com Here are the great new release wines by Lachini Vineyards. 

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2017 Lachini Rose- Beautifully colored, this great Pinot Noir Rose starts off with aromatics of forest floor, peat moss, and red raspberry. The palate is nicely bright with good minerality. Lighter toned red fruits dance with a touch of orange rind on the palate. Drink 2018-2022- 89

2016 Lachini ‘Al di La’ Chardonnay- This golden hued, limited production Chardonnay wine starts off with a bouquet of brioche, banana and bright lemon cream. The palate is both viscous, lithe and rich, showing an exotic edge. Roasted pineapple, Meyer lemon cream and creme brûlée flavors round out this awesome showing. Decadent and ripe, with a touch of cardamom towards the back end, this gorgeous offering will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 93

2015 The Grape Republic Pinot Noir- This translucent colored wine opens with a bright bouquet of red cherry with rose petals and strawberry accents. The palate shows a really nice minerality with red fruits and lighter damp earth tones coming in. Delightful in the glass, the wine is best enjoyed in the short-term while the bright tension lasts. Drink 2018-2022- 90

2016 Lachini ’S’ Pinot Noir- This Chehalem Mountain AVA Pinot Noir begins with aromas of ripe red currant, cran-pomegranate and forest floor. The palate is both rich and mineral-driven, with deep red ands dark fruit flavors parading with lovely earthy tones. Round and juicy, this decadent and well-rounded Pinot Noir will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2018-2030- 92

2016 Lachini ‘Lachini Family Estate’ Pinot Noir- Teaberry and forest floor mark the lovely nose. The palate shows a really nice tension and viscosity with red and dark fruit flavors connecting with the minerals. A true winner with some serious range, this delicious wine is best enjoyed over the next decade or so. Drink 2018-2028- 92

2016 Lachini ‘Cuvee Giselle’ Pinot Noir- Elegant and showing nice richness, the 2016 ‘Cuvee Giselle’ starts off with aromas of red fruits, rose petals and a touch of damp earth. The palate displays a nice range of red fruits and citrus tones with forest floor flavors coming in towards the back end. Drink 2018-2028- 92

2015 Lachini ‘Prima’ Pinot Noir- Sporting a hefty bottle with a metal-embossed label, the ‘Prima’ is a first class wine made by Ronald Lachini. The nose shows ripe blood orange zest, red cherry starburst candy and forest floor accents. The weight and tension in the wine entices, as does the silky mouthfeel. Gobs of red fruits connect with lighter earthy and citrus tones. The long finish lingers. Sexy and downright delicious, the ‘Prima’ will cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2018-2030- 93

2015 La Bestia Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from the Columbia Valley, this opens with cassis, mocha and tar on the nose. The palate shows nice elegance and astringency, with dark fruits connecting with chocolate and sagebrush. This outstanding effort will be best enjoyed over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 91

2015 La Contrada Red Wine- The 2015 La Contrada Red Wine begins with a nice combination of red and dark fruits on the nose. The palate shows a nice purity of fruit with red cherry, wild blackberry cobbler and crushed mint with milk chocolate flavors nicely connecting with minerals. Bright and showing nice tension, this is best enjoyed over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 91

 

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It was a great day tasting the gorgeous new wines at Reynvaan Family Vineyards.

It was a great day tasting the gorgeous new wines at Reynvaan Family Vineyards.

Reynvaan Family Vineyards

June 21, 2018

As a casually-dressed, super low-key and highly personable guy, upon first glance you might not immediately know that Matt Reynvaan is one Washngton’s finest winemakers. Matt crafts some truly dazzling wines for Reynvaan Family Vineyards, one of the top producers of Washington Syrah and white wine. Set high above the town of Walla Walla, Reynvaan has jaw-dropping, panoramic views of the valley. Their wines are even more breathtaking. As a limited production winery, Reynvaan founded two of the great people in Washington wine, Mike and Gale Reynvaan. Their wines are sourced from the Reynvaan’s ‘In The Rocks Vineyard’ and their ‘Foothills in the Sun Vineyard.’ Both of these sites have incredible terroir and impressive aromatic and flavor range. Their ‘In The Rocks Vineyard’ is located next to Cayuse and shares the similar stony and mineral aspects in their wines, while their ‘Foothills In The Sun Vineyard’ shows an intriguing herbal and dark fruit with lighter stone quality. These are some of the finest vineyards in the state. 

My last visit to Reyvaan was in August 2017 where I tried their incredible lineup of red wines. This visit focused on one red wine and two new release white wines. It is hard to describe how stunning the new Reynvaan Viognier is once in the glass. The 2016 Reynvaan ‘In The Rocks’ Viognier (WWB, 95) is the best Viognier from Washington that I have ever tried. Further, this is up there with the best Washington white wine that I have sampled over the past fifteen years of reviewing Washington wines. If you have a chance to purchase this wine, find it, capture it, and buy as much of it as you can. During this impressive tasting I also sampled the best red wine out of Washington that I have tried this year, the 2015 Reynvaan ‘Stonessence’ Syrah (WWB, 97). This wine shows profound flavor and aromatic range. It is nearly impossible to put this down once aroused, as the wine shows dazzling minerality, alongside the cornucopia of fruit and non-fruit flavors. Learn more about this famed winery at https://www.reynvaanfamilyvineyards.com Here are the gorgeous new wines by Reynvaan Family Vineyards.

Reynvaan Lineup June 2018.jpg

2016 Reynvaan ‘In The Rocks’ Viognier- The 2016 Reynvaan 'In The Rocks' Viognier saw extensive barrel age and battonage prior to bottling. The resultant Viognier its truly one of the best white wines that I have ever sampled from Washington. The 2016 Reynvaan Family Vineyards ‘In The Rocks Viognier’ opens with an incredible stony nose with aromas of chamomile, nectarine jelly, white flowers, honeydew melon and wet stone. The palate exudes class with honeydew melon, roasted pineapple, mango and roasted macadamia nut as this shows an exotic edge. The near minute long finish impresses. Only 80 cases of this thrilling wine, so grab this while you can. Drink 2018-2028- 95

2016 Reynvaan Grenache Blanc- This deeply hued wine begins with aromas of honeysuckle, apricot and cantaloupe. The palate has an incredible texture with Pazzaz apple, kiwi, pink grapefruit and roasted pinapple. This has incredible range and the mouthfeel delights. Refreshing, yet rich, this gorgeous wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 94

2015 Reynvaan ‘Stoneessence’ Syrah- The 2015 Reynvaan ‘Stoneessence’ Syrah is one of the great wines of Washington. wine weighs in at 13.6% alcohol which was the lowest percentage of any Reynvaan Syrah made in 2015. This profound wine has an incredibly perfumed nose. Rose petal, blood orange, red cherry candy and smoked brisket notes come to mind. The palate is plush and seductive as the meaty and savory character of the wine really shines through. Mouth-watering acidity fills your mouth as the wine unveils smoked pork shoulder, Hoisin sauce, Mandarin orange zest, Umami and white truffle flavors all marvelously combining. The minute long finish is simply exceptional, as is the dazzling minerality. Drink 2018-2028- 97

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It was a wonderful day trying a complete vertical of the premier Washington wines, the Delmas Syrah. 

It was a wonderful day trying a complete vertical of the premier Washington wines, the Delmas Syrah. 

Delmas Vertical Tasting (2010-2017 vintages)

June 20, 2018

In a short amount of time Delmas has established itself as not only of the premier Washington Syrahs, but truly one of the top Syrah bottlings in North America. I have been overwhelmed with the quality of these wines since I first tasted them roughly five years back. Despite having the obvious pressure of making one wine each year, Delmas has delivered incredible quality and range of aromatics and flavors to its wine every vintage. The quality in the bottle continues to build as this esteemed winery is truly one to watch.

Proprietors Steve and Mary Robertson are some of the great folks in Washington wine. Originally from the Napa Valley area, the Robertsons planted their SJR vineyard more than a decade ago and have cultivated the SJR into one of the top vineyards in the state. Their daughter, Brooke Robertson, expertly manages the SJR Vineyard. With superstar winemaker, Billo Navarane, MW, at the helm, Delmas have reached the upper echelon of Washington wines. 

I recently had the great opportunity to meet with Billo and the Robertsons during a rare Delmas vertical tasting, starting with their first vintage in 2010. I was very intrigued by their individual tasting notes of the wines, and their perspectives of each vintage. Needless to say I was blown away with how these Syrahs were currently showing. One of the great delights was the 2010 Delmas Syrah (WWB, 95) which had marvelous weight and a downright sexy nose that made it nearly impossible to leave the glass. Their success in this generally challenging vintage for Washington wines shows the aging potential (particularly in colder vintages) of these Rocks AVA wines. The 2012 vintage to the new vintage, 2016 shared many common threads. As the level of Viognier increased, the even more gorgeous, lifted, feminine qualities of the wine began to show brightly. While the stony character remained, the increased Viognier really showed how beautifully that varietal grows at the SJR Vineyard. I rated wines from 2012-2016 all 96 points. Not yet released, the 2016 Delmas Syrah (WWB, 96) is one of the best Washington Syrahs that I have sampled in the past year. Incredibly complex, with insane range, weight and tension, this one of a kind wine will cellar well over the next decade. . . but why wait? I also tried the new barrel sample of the 2017 Delmas Syrah (WWB, 96-98) which is a bit tightly wound but will evolve into a profound wine once in the bottle.  It was a truly memorable evening spent with the masterminds behind Delmas — a wine that is a must have for serious collectors of great Washington wine. Learn more about this fantastic winery at https://delmaswines.com Here are my tasting notes from my Delmas vertical tasting.

2010 Delmas Syrah- Co-fermented with 4% Viognier, this stunning wine has 3% Grenache blended in.  I find it remarkable how well this wine is currently showing considering the challenges of the vintage and age of the wine. The 2010 Delmas begins with deep aromas of Hoisin sauce, lavender, bing cherry preserves and smoked meats. The seductive aromatics bring you back to the glass for more. Silky smooth on the mid-palate, the wine reveals a silky mouthfeel and wonderful texture. The combination of citrus rind and red currant really grabs your attention on the palate. Black truffle crudo, Mandarin orange rind, cigar shavings and Hoisin sauce flavors all come together marvelously in the glass. Drink 2018-2028- 95

2011 Delmas Syrah- This was co-fermented with 4% Viognier and has 2% Grenache blended in. The nose here is distinctly feminine with guava, red currant, red cherry preserves and star jasmine with lighter wet stone elements. The floral notes on the nose really shining nicely right now. The wine is delicate and lithe, showing wonderful minerality and a silky texture. Roasted date, red currant jelly and red cherry candy flavors with orange rind mingle nicely. This does not have the weight of the 2010 but possesses a wonderful elegance. Drink 2018-2024- 93

2012 Delmas Syrah- The 2012 Delmas Syrah was co-fermented with a higher percentage of Viognier, 7.5%. This was the first vintage that Delmas did not include any of their estate Grenache. The nose here is downright intoxicating with cassis, Hoisin sauce, wet stone, cigar ash and horse manure. There is an incredible purity of fruit with this wine. The texture is simply stunning as the wine reveals wild blackberry sauce, black raspberry cordial, wet stone, black truffle oil and Umami. This Syrah is simply impossible to put down. There is still a long life for this fantastic Delmas wine but it is nearly impossible to resist right now. Drink 2018-2026- 96

2013 Delmas Syrah-  2013 was the the first vintage  that the Delmas Syrah underwent 50% whole cluster fermentation. The wine was co-fermented with 8.1 % Viognier. This stunning wine has head-turning aromas of horse manure, bacon fat, red cherry cordial, Umami, seaweed and green olive tapenade. The intoxicating range of aromas bring you back to the glass for more. The palate is both rich and lithe, showing off an incredible mouthfeel. Remarkably blueberry compote and creme de cassis flavors invade the mouth, combining with bacon fat, smoked pork shoulder,  blood orange rind, creosote and cigar box flavors. Seductive, intense and literally thrilling right now, this Syrah will age gracefully over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 96

2014 Delmas Syrah-This great Syrah underwent 50% whole cluster fermentation and saw a 8.3% Viognier co-ferment. This was also the first year the Syrah clone 470 was utilized in the blend with the Phelps clone. Intense and powerful on the nose, the Syrah shows an exotic bouquet of Asian spice, Hoisin sauce, horse manure, Umami and green olive tapenade. The aromatic range here is intoxicating. As the wine builds in the glass it is intriguing that the wine reveals subtle hints of lavender since there is an abundance of lavender planted at the SJR Vineyard. The horse manure aspect on the nose is also quite distinctive. The mouthfeel is outstanding and rich, as the wine shows off Hoisin sauce, wild blackberry preserves, peat moss, with a touch of milk chocolate. Showing more of a masculine edge, this hot vintage wine is a complete show-stopper. Drink 2018-2028- 96

2015 Delmas Syrah- Co-fermented with 8.5% Viognier, this is a stunning wine by Delmas. The Syrah opens with an incredible nose of rose petals, red cherry candy, guava puree, and lavender with lighter peat moss and horse manure aromatics playing second fiddle. The palate is lifted, currently showcasing a more feminine portrayal in the glass. Red currant, red cherry, peat moss, black truffle crudo and wet stone flavors all beautifully build after some air. The bright acidity here is at the forefront which is remarkable despite the obvious heat spikes experienced in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA. The high percentage of Viognier gives this amazing wine added lift. This is impossible to resist right now. Drink 2018-2028- 96

2016 Delmas Syrah- Following up the stunning 2015 bottling, the 2016 Delmas Syrah is a  head-turning wine that takes its seat at the high table in Washington Syrah. The Syrah connected with 7.25% Viognier in the co-ferment and saw limited new oak prior to bottling. Straight out of the glass, the wine exudes heady aromas of red currant jelly, cigar ash, blood orange rind, horse manure, crushed wet gravel and Asian spices. This stunning nose brings you back to the glass for more pleasure. The palate is silky smooth and seductive. Cran-pomegranate, Mandarin orange, red cherry candy, peat moss and Umami flavors round out the palate. This has incredible range, precision, purity and focus. A heavyhitter of a wine, this lifted and stunning Syrah by superstar winemaker, Billo Naravane, will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2018-2028- 96

2017 Delmas Syrah (Barrel Sample)- 96-98

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Great photo here of Wayne Bailey, co-founder of Youngsberg Hill. 

Great photo here of Wayne Bailey, co-founder of Youngsberg Hill. 

Youngberg Hill

June 19, 2018

A boutique family owned and operated Oregon winery with a killer lineup, Youngberg Hill was first founded back in 1989. If you have a chance to visit this great winery perched on a hillside, the sweeping views of the Willamette Valley are absolutely breathtaking. The winery focuses on quality, sustainable farming and producing limited production Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. A native Iowan, founder Wayne Bailey grew up on a farm in Oakland, Iowa, and following college served as a consultant for fifteen years in the food and beverage industry. One of his great inspirations included helping Burgundian wineries for three months work on logistics, branding, and marketing. While in France he noted the constant focus on farming and saw how organic farming methods led to outstanding grapes. Finally, in 2003, Wayne took the plunge, purchasing Youngberg Hill and focusing on making high quality McMinnville AVA wines.

The new releases from this estate were really good across the board. The 2015 Youngberg Hill ‘Aspen’ Pinot Gris (WWB, 91) shows a wonderful range of aromatics and flavors, with a silky texture. It is a Gris not to be missed. The Pinot Noir releases by Youngsberg Hill (both WWB, 90) were really good, with great richness, rewarding those who cellar over the next decade. Learn more about this great Oregon winery at https://youngberghill.com Here are the great new wines by Youngsberg Hill. 

2015 Youngberg Hill ‘Aspen’ Pinot Gris- This limited production Pinot Gris, sourced from the McMinnville AVA, begins with a bouquet of lovely bouquet of roasted hazelnut, creme brûlée and bright banana. The mouthfeel is lovely, as the wine shows off Pink Lady apple, macadamia nut and Meyer lemon cream flavors. Enjoy this great wine over the next ten years. Drink 2018-2026- 91

Youngsberg Hill Jordan Pinot.jpg

2014 Youngberg Hill ‘Jordan’ Pinot Noir- Deeply colored, the ‘Jordan’ Pinot Noir is an outstanding new wine by Youngberg Hill. Highly fragrant, the nose reveals a nice array of citrus rind with dark and red fruits. Mineral driven, the wine showcases dark cherry, forest floor and orange rind. Give this a one hour decant prior to enjoying. Drink 2018-2025- 90

2014 Youngberg Hill ‘Natasha’ Pinot Noir- Dark fruits dominate the nose with earthy tones playing second fiddle. Medium bodied, this well-made Pinot Noir has wonderful structure alongside blackberry cobbler, black truffle and forest floor flavors. Drink 2018-2025- 90

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Travis Allen is the founder/winemaker of the outstanding, micro-production winery, Kobayashi. 

Travis Allen is the founder/winemaker of the outstanding, micro-production winery, Kobayashi. 

Kobayashi

June 19, 2018

Travis Allen is one busy man. Balancing jobs as a nurse anesthetist, SIDS researcher and winemaker/father can be difficult. A few years back Travis got the urge to start Kobayashi. He had been working several harvests for Eight Bells winery and realized that some of the Cabernet Franc fruit was not being used from the esteemed ‘David’s Block’ at the Red Willow Vineyard. 

For a little background, the Red Willow Vineyard, first planted in 1973, is located at the far western edge of the Yakima Valley.  Managed by Mike Sauer, much of the plantings were connected to that expressed by the late famed winemaker for Columbia Winery, winemaker David Lake MW. David’s Block is named after David Lake, MW, and has all five Bordeaux varietals planted there. Having tried the Columbia Winery wines back to the late 1990s, these are wines that show finesse and a wonderful purity of fruit.

Travis is able to craft his gorgeous Cabernet Franc in a classic style that is extremely labor intensive — he literally has his entire family helping out with the winemaking process. His new release 2015 Kobayashi Cabernet Franc (WWB, 94) is a downright stunner that is up there with the best Washington Cabernet Franc bottlings. There are only 25 cases of this sumptuous, silky wine made, so try to get your hands on a bottle. Learn more about these exciting wines at http://kobayashiwines.com Here are the outstanding new wines by Kobayashi. 

Kobayashi Logo.png

2017 Kobayashi ‘Boushey Vineyard’ Marsanne (barrel sample)- 92-94

2015 Kobayashi Cabernet Franc- This outstanding new release has a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon blended in sourced from Red Willow Vineyard, the David Lake block. Years ago Red Willow Vineyard Manager, Mike Sauer, planted an experimental block of Bordeaux varietals and this block has three Cabernet Franc clones included. The ‘David’s Block’ Cabernet Franc wine was natively fermented and the wine was hand-destemmed by friends and family and then fermented on neutral oak puncheons. There were no punchdowns or pumpovers as the wine barrels were actually spun instead. The wine was also frequently stirred prior to racking which has obviously brought out the marvelous textural elements to the wine. The wine begins with aromas of anise, creme de cassis, milk chocolate, with pretty rose water aromatics coming into play. The palate shows wonderful richness and a smooth mouthfeel, as the wine unveils ripe dark and red berry flavors with milk chocolate and silky smooth tannins. There is a wonderful seamless quality to this wine as well as an evident purity of fruit. This finishes extremely long with dark fruits and chocolate. Only 25 cases made of this incredible wine. Kudos to the uber-talented Travis Allen. Drink 2018-2028- 94

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Great photo of the fantastic Eight Bells team. 

Great photo of the fantastic Eight Bells team. 

Eight Bells

June 18, 2018

One of the great Seattle urban wineries, Eight Bells is located in the heart of the Roosevelt/Ravenna district in Seattle. A few weeks back I had the opportunity to taste at this very cool urban location and try some of their new release wines. A limited production winery, Eight Bells produces roughly 2000 cases per year. Eight Bells had their first vintage in 2009 and was founded by Tim Bates, Andy Shepherd and Frank Michiels. Tim began making wine in his basement in 1980 with grapes from Sagemoor Farms. Like many who catch the wine bug, this experiment is now something quite serious as all winery owners have completed the WSU viticulture extension program.  Eight Bells sources from some of the state’s great vineyards, including two from the Yakima Valley — the Red Willow Vineyard, located in the far western end of the Yakima Valley, and the Boushey Vineyard, located in Grandview, Washington.

The new release wines were outstanding across the board. A fantastic new Chardonnay, the 2017 Eight Bells Chardonnay (WWB, 91) shows wonderful depth and richness with good tension. Eight Bells also made an outstanding new 2015 Pinot Noir (WWB, 90), sourced from the Methven Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. The best wine I tried during the tasting was the 2014 Eight Bells ‘David’s Block’ Red Wine (WWB, 92) which is a silky blend of Bordeaux varietals that is not to be missed. Learn more about this winery at 8bellswinery.com Here are the new red wine releases by Eight Bells.

Eight Bells Chardonnay logo.jpg

2017 Eight Bells Chardonnay- Sourced from the Boushey Vineyard, they have utilized four clones of Chardonnay for this wine. The wine was largely aged in stainless steel prior to bottling. The nose shows toasty brioche and pear elements with a touch of starfruit. There is a great freshness to the wine as it shows off Japanese pear, vanilla cream and lighter peach flavors. This shows wonderful poise. Drink 2018-2024- 91

2015 Eight Bells Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Methven Vineyard, just south of Dayton in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. The wine is crafted from three clones of Pinot Noir. The wine saw no new oak prior to bottling. This has a pretty red cherry and rose petal nose with a touch of baking spices. There is a light orange rind element on the palate that combines with bright guava puree and strawberry flavors. This is lithe and forward pretty Pinot Noir that has a good freshness. Drink 2018-2024- 90

2015 Eight Bells Sangoivese- This Sangiovese was sourced from the Red Willow Vineyard first planted in 1992. This translucent wine starts off with aromatics of smoke, red cherry and bright strawberry. This has really good minerality, as the wine has a nice salinity and mouthfeel. Red cherry, cranberry and orange zest flavors impress. Drink 2018-2024- 90

2015 Eight Bells Merlot- From a block planted in 1990, this deep colored wine starts off with black raspberry, coffee grounds and black cherry aromatics. The wine has a wonderful mouthfeel and purity of fruit. Red and dark cherry flavors beautifully combine, as this has a Bordelaise feel. Drink 2018-2028- 90

2013 Eight Bells ‘David’s Block’ Red Wine- This wine is a field blend from a one acre block that David Lake originally planted. The final blending is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Malbec, with the remainder Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Carmenere and Petit Verdot. There is a wonderful herbal quality to this wine with sagebrush and pine undertones, connecting with dark fruits on the nose. The mouthfeel is generous as this wine shows a good minerality. Dark cherry preserves, milk chocolate, and sagebrush flavors persist with light tannins on the mid-palate. Drink 2018-2028- 92

2014 Eight Bells ‘David’s Block’ Red WIne- The 2014 ‘David’s Block’ is a field blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon with 22% Malbec and the remainder Carmenere, Petit Verdot and Merlot. This opens up with bright aromas of red cherry, milk chocolate and cassis with black olive. There is a really lovely balance between masculine and feminine here. Showing good weight, dark cherry, roasted figs, and milk echolocate flavors connect with excellent minerality. Drink 2018-2028- 92

2015 Eight Bells Syrah-Released in December 2017, this wine is sourced from the Red Willow Vineyard. This has wonderful earthy tones with dark cherry cordial, crushed mint and sandalwood undertones on the nose. The wine delivers downright delicious flavors of black olive, black tea and boysenberry jam. Balanced and rich, this is an outstanding wine by Eight Bells. Drink 2018-2026- 91

 

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