Delas

Today I had a very instructive experience tasting through the Delas wines with their winemaker over Zoom. One of the great houses in the Northern Rhone, Delas was founded back in 1835. Although the Delas family has been making wine since 1835 in the Rhône Valley, it was not until 1924 that they took the current name of the estate. In 1993, the Rouzaud family, owners of Louis Roederer, acquired both Delas Frères and Champagne Deutz. Since 1996, the Rouzaud family has made important investments in the Saint-Jean-de-Muzols production site near Tournon-sur-Rhône. They have revamped their production facility and cellars to make some important modernizations. 

Delas now makes a huge range of wines all the way from the Ventoux in southern France, as well as Chateauneuf du Pape but they are best known for their wines from Cote Rotie and Hermitage. I was massively impressed with their red and white wine releases across the board. Look to their 2017 Delas Hermitage Domaine des Tourelles (OB, 94) which is rich, unctuous and downright delicious with good freshness and some seriously good aging potential. I loved the new 2017 Delas Cote-Rotie La Landonne (OB, 96) which comes from some hallowed ground and is seamless and elegant with a silky mouthfeel. 

2017 Delas Hermitage Domaine des Tourelles- A blend of 90% Marsanne with the remainder Roussanne, this saw roughly nine months of barrel aging with battonage. The texture is gorgeous here with ripe peach and starfruit tones with a silky sense of mouthfeel and good freshness. Drink 2021-2033- 94

2016 Delas Condrieu La Galopine- The 2016 Delas Condrieu La Galopine is a stunning wine that was sourced from four communes in Condrieu. The wine shows great finesse and is downright unctuous on the tongue. Layers of buttercream and stony minerals are woven together with ripe Bartlett pear and shades of banana that gives this plenty of exotic appeal. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2017 Delas Condrieu Clos Boucher- The 2017 Delas Condrieu Clos Boucher is sourced from a single vineyard adjacent to Chateau Grillet. Aged for six months on the lees, this provides ripe pineapple, white peach and shades of nutmeg and toasted Macadamia nut on this gorgeous bouquet. The freshness and sense of finesse as well as dense mouthfeel here really impresses. Drink 2021-2035- 95

2015 Delas Crozes Hermitage Domaine des Grand Chemins- Already quite evolved this shows dark currents and graphite tones alongside shades of iron and bulls blood. Enjoy over the next several years. Drink 2021-2026- 90

2015 Delas Crozes Hermitage Le Clos- The 2015 Le Clos shows beautiful black florals with wild blackberry and soy sauce tones aromatically. The palate is fresh with plenty of finesse. Soft tannins line the beautifully pure dark fruits that mingle with stony terroir. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2017 Delas Cote-Rotie Seigneur de Maugiron- The 2017 Cote-Rotie Seigneur de Maugiron is a combination of fruit sourced from the Cote Brune and Cote Blonde vineyards. The gorgeous aromatics impresss with layers of rich red and dark fruits with citrus rind and iodine tones. The freshness and finesse of the wine is outstanding, as is the great sense of length. Firm tannins hood together a great core of red and dark fruits with charcuterie and black tea tones on the palate. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2017 Delas Cote-Rotie La Landonne- Delas has four acres of land in this hallowed site. This saw 16 months of French oak aging (25% new) prior to bottling. Quite closed aromatically, this really needs an hour of air to get going. The palate is extremely refined with black raspberry and blackberry cordial flavors alongside coffee grounds and graphite tones with amazing verve. This has a long way to go. Drink 2021-2038- 96

2017 Delas Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes-The 2017 Delas Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes is an awesome showing sourced from this south facing site in Hermitage. Gorgeous violets with black currants and smoky tones fill the nose. The palate is rich, concentrated and beautifully structured with a soft texture. Elegant with great length this is already showing beautifully now. Drink 2021-2038- 95

2017 Delas Hermitage Lea Bessards- The 2017 Delas Hermitage Lea Bessards is sourced from a single vineyard first planted in 1990. Ripe cassis and sour black Cherry tones mingle with exotic spices and stony undertones on the palate. Generous and rich with outstanding length, this has a long way to go. Drink 2021-2035- 94

White Walnut Estate

“We are really excited what we see from 2020, especially our Chardonnay” Chris Mazepink exclaimed during our phone call yesterday. A really exciting new project out of Oregon, White Walnut is the brainchild of the former winemaker and general manager of Archery Summit, Chris Mazepink, who purchased land in the Dundee Hills back in 2013. Chris sensed the potential of the property as it is located adjacent to the vineyards of legendary Oregon wineries Domaine Drouhin and Archery Summit. Chris and his sons, Archer and Charles, cleared the land, by hand, in the summer of 2014 and then planted it to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in 2015 and 2016. They preserved the remaining walnut trees on the property that continue to produce fruit and are now well over 70 years old, standing stoic amongst the vines. 

A smaller site at less than seven planted acres, Chris sees incredible potential for Chardonnay in the Dundee Hills. “I think the wines that the critics actually like more is Chardonnay and I see that potential here” he explained. 

I think the new wines he has crafted are really gorgeous across the board. Sensational for an entry level bottling, the 2018 White Walnut 'Dundee Hills’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) delivers really good range and a silky mouthfeel. Even better is the sensational 2019 White Walnut ‘Worden Hill’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which is dense and showing beautiful red and dark fruits with good freshness. Learn more about this outstanding new winery at https://www.whitewalnutestate.com Here are the great new wines by White Walnut. 

2018 White Walnut ‘Dundee Hills’ Chardonnay- Golden once the glass, the 2018 ‘Dundee Hills’ Chardonnay shows a very soft texture with layers of buttercream and banana alongside Meyer lemon zest and melon tones on the palate. The combination of mouthfeel and tension here is really good. This shows considerable better warmed up, as the 2018 ‘Dundee Hills’ Chardonnay is best enjoyed over the next six to eight years. Drink 2021-2027- 92

2018 White Walnut ‘Worden Hill Road’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Worden Hill Road’ Chardonnay is a limited production bottling that opens with nice aromatic range from salted Macadamia nut to pear and citrus rind tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is very refined and the rich mouthfeel really enhances the drinking experience. With great persistence and length, this outstanding new Chardonnay will cellar well over the next eight plus years. Drink 2021-2029- 93

2019 White Walnut ‘North Block’ Chardonnay- A light whiff of volcanic earth really entices here as layers of orchard and citrus. fruits combine with vanilla cream tones on the nose. A light dusting of salinity adds to the affair here with layers of buttercream and lemon zest mingle with baking spice infused Challah bread on the palate. This is seriously good stuff that has both the bright acidity and stuffing top cellar for another ten years. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2019 White Walnut ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir shows lovely range on the nose from volcanic earth to red currants and peat moss tones. The palate reveals a beautiful purity of red fruits, ranging from guava and strawberry to red cherry and pomegranate seed. The volcanic terroir here is simply outstanding, as this beautiful wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2019 White Walnut ‘Worden Hill Road’ Pinot Noir-  The gorgeous 2019 ‘Worden Hill Road’ Pinot Noir shows off that great volcanic terroir with salted red fruit aromatics and pine needles that all mingle in the glass. The palate is big and downright voluptuous with its deep core of red and dark fruits with white truffle and forest floor undertones. Downright delicious to savor in its youth, this beautiful wine has a long road ahead of it. Drink 2021-2033- 93

Sin Banderas

As we continue to roll on through Washington Wine Month, we wanted to share one of the excellent boutique wineries that our state offers out of the Yakima Valley. Sin Banderas was founded by four friends from different parts of the world. They all met in Yakima while working together at Owen Roe.The wine is made at the Owen Roe custom crush facility. Sin Banderas winemaker Jacki Evans is originally from Texas and studied Biology at the University of Texas in Austin. She has over 10 years of winemaking experience with 15 harvests around the world, including Napa Valley of California, Willamette Valley of Oregon, the Great Southern of Western Australia, Barossa Valley of South Australia, Burgenland, Austria, and Marlborough, New Zealand.  She's been in the Yakima Valley of Washington State making wine with Owen Roe Winery since the 2013 vintage. 

The new wines by Sin Banderas was very good, coming from the latest 2020 vintage. I adored her 2020 Sin Banderas Riesling (OB, 91) which has gobs of freshness and finesse with a silky texture, Learn more about this new wine project at https://www.sinbanderaswines.com Here is my review of the Sin Banderas wines. 

2020 Sin Banderas Riesling-  Made in the Kabinette style, this outstanding new Riesling shows not only good depth and freshness but outstanding range. Orange blossoms, kiwi, melon and wet stone tones all brilliantly combine on the palate. Drink 2021-2026- 91

2020 Sin Banderas Rose- This light pink shaded Rose shows good astringency and a soft texture. Very delicate red fruits mingle with red rose water and shades of Japanese pear on the palate. Drink 2021-2024- 89

L’Ecole No 41

These are exciting times at one of Washington’s historic wineries. A new winemaker, Marcus Rafanelli, has recently been hired, as L’Ecole continues to make some of the best value red and white wines in the state. I have been tasting at this winery since 2002. For many years I have been massively impressed the quality that they can offer in the glass. Marty Clubb, one of the greats in Walla Walla wine, helped build this brand into a national and international pillar of balanced and well-priced Washington wines. Today you can see these outstanding values in supermarket shelfs across the country, flying the Washington wine flag very high.

The third winery in Walla Walla, L’Ecole No. 41 the winery invested in their Walla Walla Estate Ferguson and Seven Hills Vineyards, now utilizing 100% sustainable farming practices. Somewhat recently they purchased a parcel of land that is a high elevation site named after L’Ecole founders Jean and Baker Ferguson. This 42-acre Estate vineyard is set on thin loess soil overlying fractured basalt — a truly unique soil type for the valley. Wines from this site embody a wonderfully stony undertone.

I recently had the chance to taste the new wine from this special site, the 2018 L’Ecole No 41 ‘Ferguson Estate’ Red Wine (OB, 95) which just might be the finest wine from this special location made yet. The wine is dense and chewy, downright massive, and hard some incredible cellaring potential and nuance.  This is a great purchase for any serious collector of Washington wine. Learn more about L’Ecole and their awesome new set of wines at https://www.lecole.com/ Here are my reviews of the new L’Ecole wines. 

2020 L’Ecole No 41 Rose- This Grenache based Rose shows off pretty orange blossom tones aromatically, alongside kiwi and strawberry tones that all entice. The palate is fresh and slightly sweet with lots of finesse and a lingering finish. This is seriously good stuff that will be best enjoyed while the vibrant core of acidity remains. Drink 2021-2025- 91

2018 L’Ecole No 41 ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Syrah- Smoky, savory and delicious, the 2018 ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Syrah shows off plenty of smoked meats with blackberry compote, black olives, tar and garrigue tones on the palate. Full-bodied and glorious in its hedonistic youth, this outstanding new Syrah will cellar well over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2021-2029- 93

2018 L’Ecole No 41 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Merlot- The 2018 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Merlot is an awesome wine by L’Ecole. Ripe black plum and chocolate covered dark kirsch aromas with baking spices all meld in the glass. The palate is refined and elegant with a terrific mouthfeel and outstanding length. Rich dark fruits collide with minerals, smoke and chocolate cake notes on the palate. Outstanding in its youth, this has a long way to go. Drink 2021-2035- 93

2018 L’Ecole No 41 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A glorious 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, you are immediately struck by the rich sagebrush and anise tones on the nose, with a great wall of dark fruits holding everything in place. The palate is very smooth with refined tannins that mingle with black raspberry cordial, cigar box, black currants and chocolate covered espresso bean flavors. The long finish lingers. Terrific to enjoy now, this beautiful wine will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another decade. Drink 2022-2037- 93

2018 L’Ecole No 41 ‘Ferguson Vineyard’ Red Wine- The 2018 L’Ecole No 41 ‘Ferguson Vineyard’ Red Wine is a compelling blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon with 24% Merlot and smaller parts Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot sourced from this high elevation site in the Walla Walla Valley. Once on the nose this takes on layers of creme de cassis and creosote tones that mingle with exotic spices on this fantastic bouquet. The palate is soft and refined, with good richness and a wonderful veil of tension and salinity. Intense dark fruits mingle with minerals, cigar ash and Turkish coffee tones on the palate, with firm tannins holding everything well in place. Exceedingly good even in its youth, try to hold off enjoying this beautiful wine for at least another two years. Drink 2024-2040- 95

Mollydooker

It was spring 2020 and I sat across from Luke Marquis for a really exciting Instagram Live interview. Wines in hand, we tasted together and he shared the incredible story that is Mollydooker. I recall the massive, tidal wave level of buzz that traveled around when Mollydooker was first formed back in 2005. These wines were immediately met with critical praise but I hadn’t had the chance to try them quite yet. 

In a very short amount of time Sarah and Sparky Marquis created one of the iconic wine brands of Australia. Their first wine, the 2006 ‘Carnival of Love’ Shiraz was immediately awarded 99 points by Robert Parker and was sold out in five days. The following year, their Velvet Glove Shiraz became their fifth wine to be awarded 99 points by The Wine Advocate and the Carnival of Love has since been listed in Wine Spectator’s ‘Top Ten wines in the World’ three times. This is just an unprecedented amount of success for a new winery.

I was first introduced to these wines in their 2007 vintage as word traveled very quickly to the United States. The combination of weight and acidity in the wines was quite thrilling. I was also enticed with the consistency of their wines, regardless of vintage. For instance, 2011 was a highly challenging vintage in South Australia and the wines made by Mollydooker that vintage were some of the finest produced in the region. In 2017 Sarah took sole control of the winery and now has her son, Luke, the ‘Blue Eyed Boy’ is involved in the winery as well as he leads global sales. I sat down with Sarah a few years ago for an exciting interview.

I adored the new Mollydooker lineup. Don’t miss out on the thrilling 2018 Mollydooker ‘Carnival of Love’ Shiraz (OB, 95) which is hedonistic and intense, yet shows bright acidity and wonderful viscosity.  Even better is the iconic 2018 Mollydooker ‘Velvet Glove’ Shiraz (OB, 98) which is a wine that flirts with perfection and is a magical bottling with a seamless texture that makes this effortlessly glide. What strikes me most about this wine is not only the feeling of weight but the nuance that the wine offers despite being massively dense. Learn more about this inspired Australian winery at https://www.mollydookerwines.com.au/ Here are the beautiful new wines by Mollydooker.

2019 Mollydooker ’The Boxer’ Shiraz- The 2018 ‘The Boxer’ is an outstanding release by Mollydooker. They wine offers plenty of rich red and dark fruits alongside tar and scorched earth tones on the palate. Full-bodied and delicious to savor now, this outstanding effort will provide drinking enjoyment for the next seven plus years. Drink 2021-2028- 91

2019 Mollydooker ‘The Maitre D’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 ‘The Maitre D’ shows plenty of rich dark fruits with tobacco and milk chocolate tones on the nose. The palate is fresh a nd silky with layers of roasted dates, menthol, milk chocolate covered dark cherry and shades of espresso bean. Delicious now, enjoy this great new Cabernet Sauvignon over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2028- 91

2019 Mollydooker ‘Two Left Feet’ Red WIne- The 2019 ‘Two Left Feet’ Red Wine is a great blend of 69% Shiraz, 16% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine was aged in almost all American oak (44% new) before bottling, weighing in at 16% alcohol. The wine shows toasty oak alongside dark kirsch and black currants that all mingle in the glass. The palate is fresh and beautifully textured. Layers of ripe dark currants and roasted figs mingle with milk chocolate all combine on the palate. This is seriously good stuff for the price. Drink 2021-2026- 91

2018 Mollydooker ‘Carnival of Love’ Shiraz- The 2018 ‘Carnival of Love’ is a sensational release by Mollydooker. Aged in 100% new French oak, this shows off toasty oak with creme de cassis, black olive tapenade, white pepper and smoked brisket tones that all come together in the glass. The palate is rich and viscous with an incredible harmonious quality and great veil of tension. The voluptuous texture really impresses as a massive core of dark fruits (roasted figs, boysenberry syrup, black currant jelly) all mingle with coffee grounds and shades of dark chocolate cake on the palate. Sensational now, this has at least another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2033- 95

2018 Mollydooker ‘The Velvet Glove’ Shiraz- The 2018 Mollydooker ‘The Velvet Glove’ Shiraz is a utterly sensational bottling that rivals any wine of its kind. Aged in all new American oak, this shows a gorgeous bouquet from blueberry pie to espresso grounds, graphite and toasty oak tones that all impress. The palate is deep and utterly seamless. A massive core of blue and dark fruits collide with white pepper, minerals, firm tannins and a light dusting of salinity. While obviously big, this has a weightless quality and wonderful verve. Wonderful to enjoy now, this outstanding Shiraz will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another fifteen years. But why wait? Drink 2021-2038- 98

Julia’s Dazzle

I love a wine that is wonderfully complex but also very easy to drink. Years ago Long Shadows had the terrific idea to craft their Rose wine from outstanding Pinot Gris grapes at The Benches Vineyard. This created a style of wine that had a sensational texture and wonderful melon and pretty, delicate red fruits.

For many years the Long Shadows Julia’s Dazzle has been one of the most consistently great Rose wines out of Washington. This is Rose that has plenty of stuffing but always maintains a wonderful sense of verve — great for when the weather warms up.

I was very honored to be the first wine critic to try the 2020 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose (OB, 91) which is a downright awesome Rose bottling that continues the line of remarkable consistency not only for this brand but superstar winemaker Gilles Nicault. Cheers to warmer days ahead! Learn more at longshadows.com

Here is my review of the 2020 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose.

2020 Long Shadows 'Julia’s Dazzle' Rose- The 2020 Julia’s Dazzle Rose is another impressive bottling by famed winemaker Giles Nicault. This 2020 Rose is 100% Pinot Gris sourced from the the Yakima Valley that was whole cluster pressed. Right away this shows peach and orange rind tones alongside wet stone, strawberry and shades of wild mushroom on the nose. The palate is beautifully textured with a great sense of weight and finesse. Kiwi and Mandarin orange rind flavors collide with minerals, wet stone and guava tones all artfully combine on the palate. Fresh and lithe, this has some nice medium-term cellaring potential. This is very nuanced stuff. Drink 2021-2025- 91

Kerloo Cellars

Sitting across from Ryan Crane, he had no qualms about his honest response to my question about the 2020 vintage. “2020 was tough with some smoke and freeze issues but we were really happy with the wines” he said. I have been consistently impressed with Ryan’s winemaking which has beautifully evolved since he began many years back. His boutique style of winemaking involves crafting very precise, small production, single vineyard bottlings that have an err of the old world. 

Years back Ryan got his start at Animale Cellars in Seattle, and then later trained under Marie-Eve Gilla at Forgeron Cellars while completing his degree in Enology and Viticulture at Walla Walla Community College. These are wines that show great finesse with rich fruit flavors and wonderful terroir. Ryan has a deft touch for Rose and white wines.I adored his 2020 Kerloo  Cellars ‘Lonesome Springs Vineyard’ Rose (OB, 92) which is very geeky stuff, perfect for the somm crowd. This is highly nuanced Rose. As I wrote last year and even more this vintage this single vineyard bottling is very Bandol meets Washington. A downright killer value is his 2020 SoDo Cellars ‘Love Birds’ Rose (OB,  90) which is fresh and vibrant with beautiful acidity and soft red fruit flavors. At a mere 15 bucks you would be hard pressed to find another Rose that delivers this quality at this price. A tour de force, the 2019 Kerloo Cellars ‘Rockgarden Vineyard’ Syrah (OB, 95) is pure Rocks with incredible finesse and really good nuance. Don’t miss out on this silky, beautifully layered Syrah. Learn more about this great SoDo winery at www.kerloocellars.com. Here are the great new releases by the talented Ryan Crane and his Kerloo Cellars.

2020 Kerloo Cellars ‘Lonesome Springs Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc- This is the first 100% concrete aged Sauvignon blanc that Ryan Crane has made. Sourced from the Lonesome Springs Vineyard, this shows bright gooseberry and kiwi aromatic tones alongside white rose blossoms. The lovely wet stone character makes this particularly novel. The combination of mouth-watering acidity, finish and mouthfeel is really outstanding here. Drink this beautiful wine over the next few years Drink 2021-2025- 92

2020 Kerloo Cellars ‘Blue Mountain Vineyard’ Grenache Blanc- This Grenache Blanc wine was given 4 months of battonage and was 100 neutral barrel aged 6 months before bottling. Lemongrass and cantaloupe tones mingle with lighter nutty tones. The mouthfeel and wonderful sense of verve is outstanding here. Green papaya and lemon rind tones mingle with shades of Marcona almond on the palate. This is outstanding stuff that will be best enjoyed over the next several years. Drink 2021-2025- 91

2020 Kerloo Cellars ’Lonesome Springs. Vineyard’ Rose- The 2018 ‘Lonesome Springs Vineyard’ Rose is 60% Mourvedre with the remainder Grenache all sourced from the Lonesome Springs Vineyard. This was entirely aged in concrete and was left on the lees before a clean racking prior to bottling. This vintage contains slightly more Mourvedre and shows a nice aromatic range from pretty red fruits to kiwi and melon tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is silky smooth with a marvelous sense of texture. This is really highly nuanced Rose with the wet stone and orange rind character alongside the lighter melon and strawberry tones. This has outstanding length, providing the resounding crecendo. Drink 2021-2026- 92

2020 SoDo Cellars ‘Love Birds’ Rose- The 2020 ‘Love Birds’ Rose is a serious value in Washington Rose. Pretty nectarine and Yakima cherry tones alongside guava and wet stone undertones all mark the nose. The palate shows just a hint of residual sugar alongside amazing freshness and bright red fruits with melon tones. This is amazing juice for the price. Drink 2021-2024- 90

2019 Kerloo Cellars ‘The Queen’ Red Wine- A blend of near equal parts Mourvedre and Grenache, this saw 100% neural barrel fermentation before bottling. Pretty red fruits mark then nose with the creosote and smoked meats and a dusting of white pepper. The palate is super fresh and vibrant with layers of pretty red fruits that mingle with black licorice, bubblegum and smoked pork shoulder wit salty tones. This finishes long. Drink 2021-2028- 92

2019 Kerloo Cellars ‘Rockgarden Estate’ Syrah- This is really unique wine made by Ryan Crane who was approached by Nina Buty to purchase a small amount of Syrah and Mourvedre (still in barrel). Right away this is pure Rocks with wet stone, green peppercorn, charcuterie and horse manure tones alongside green olive tapenade and Only two neutral puncheons made.The palate has incredible freshness and tension with a wonderful sense of mouthfeel. This is generous but also very seamless. Rich dark fruits collide with smoky and salty tones on the palate with seaweed, blood orange zest and wet stone. This is complex and delicious Syrah that will cellar well for another eight years. Drink 2021-2029- 95

Dunham Cellars

It was 2002 and I was a Whitman College senior. One of the cool things was to visit some of the local wineries and learn more about wine. I fondly recall my stops to Dunham Cellars which was one of the friendliest places to taste good wine. Truly one of the storied houses in Walla Walla, Dunham Cellars was founded by the Dunham family in 1995. Over the years I have found that Dunham crafts some of the most consistently good overall lineups in the state. Dunham relies on the talented hands of winemaker Rob Campisi, who was formerly assistant winemaker at Dunham. Rob trained under eminent Washington winemaker, Dan Wampfler and he crafts quite a wide range of wines including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Trutina (Bordeaux style blend), Three Legged Red (red table wine) and the "Shirley Mays" Chardonnay, a dedication to Eric's grandmother.  

I love the new 2020 Dunham Cellars Rose (OB, 91) made from Cabernet Franc grapes as this shows a very soft. texture. Even better and a great value is the compelling 2018 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine (OB, 92) which is amazing for the price. I would say that one of the great Merlot wines I have tasted from Washington over the past year, the 2016 Dunham Cellars ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Merlot (OB, 95) is dense, chewy and has a seamless character. This is a winery only bottling that is utterly sensational. Learn more about these beautiful wines at dunhamcellars.com Here are the great new wines by Dunham Cellars.

2020 Dunham Cellars Rose- Dunham has been making this Cabernet Franc Rose since 2015. This is their first year sourcing from the Gamache Vineyard. Aged in stainless steel, this shows pretty red rose petals and white peach tones aromatically alongside shades of wet stone. The bright acidity is impressive, as is the sense of mouthfeel.  Ripe guava and melon tones mingle with wet stone and tons of lip-smacking acidity. Drink 2021-2026- 91

2018 Dunham Cellars ‘Shirley Mays’ Chardonnay- Dunham first made this wine in 2007. A combination of Kenny Hill and Lewis Vineyard fruit,  and revealing a beautiful golden hue, this shows off toasted Macadamia nut with banana and Pink Lady apple tones that all meld in the glass. The freshness and viscosity here is really good as layers of buttercream and ripe pear mingle with minerals and shades of creme brullee all impress. This finishes very long with cream and minerals. Gorgeous now, this has some good aging potential. Drink 2021-2028- 93

2018 Dunham Cellars ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Riesling- The 2018 Dunham Cellars checks in at 18G/L residual sugar, as this wine has been made since 2007. Fresh and vibrant, this shows a soft texture, unveiling wet stone, sweetened Granny Smith apple, and lemon/lime tones. Beautiful now, this really has some good cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2028- 92

2018 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Trutina’ is a blend of 52% Merlot which is higher than most vintages, with 36% Cabernet Sauvignon and small parts Petit Verdot and Malbec. Toasty oak and tar combine with shades of dark chocolate shavings and mocha tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is soft, round and generous with a great sense of mouthfeel. Layers of dark fruits combine with coffee grounds, milk chocolate and minerals. Beautiful now to enjoy, this will cellar well for another decade. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2017 Dunham Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Dunham Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning new bottling by the talented Dunham winemaking team. Ripe red cherry and dark currants mingle with sagebrush, and tar tones that all takes ape in the glass. The palate is chewy and plush, showing a silky mouthfeel and wonderful sense of texture. Ripe cassis and anise with tobacco leaf tone single with minerals, dark chocolate covered cherry,  graphite and smoky undertones. This has some great aging potential. Drink 2021-2035- 93

2016 Dunham Cellars ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Merlot- The 2016 Dunham Cellars ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Merlot is a stunning, singular bottling that has everything you want in a great Washington Merlot. Tons of plush dark fruits with pipe tobacco and milk chocolate covered coffee bean all combine brilliantly on the nose. The palate is soft and super refined. Layers of rich toffee and roasted dates, black cherry cough syrup and shades of coffee grounds all brilliantly combine on the palate. Full-bodied, rich and decadent, this outstanding Merlot will provide drinking enjoyment for the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2021-2036- 95

2018 Dunham Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah- I am totally blown away with the 2018 Dunham Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah which is just sinfully good for the price. The nose on this wine is just intoxicating. Gobs of smoked meats mingle with milk chocolate, dried herbs and shades of iron on this evocative bouquet. The palate is fresh yet silky smooth, with a great sense of viscosity. Layers of cassis, boysenberry cordial, smoked brisket, bulls blood and hints of Mandarin orange rind all impress. Gorgeous now, this stunning effort will. Provide drinking enjoyment for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2017 Dunham Cellars ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2017 ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Syrah is a stunning new bottling showing gobs of terroir. The smoky and savory aromatics really entice. Fresh and vibrant with great acuity this shows off layers of smoked meats and black olive tapenade with rich dark fruits on the palate. Showing good richness and acidity this has some great cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2035- 95

Toil Oregon

Chris Figgins spoke without hesitation, “We are really excited about our new Oregon property.” Figgins was literally thrilled when he purchased a parcel of land in the Willamette Valley, coming full-circle on wines that he has adored for years. It has now taken several years for the vineyard to produce fruit. Originally launched back in 2012, Toil Oregon started with a production of 200 cases then in 2016 Chris planted his estate vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. His first wine fully from his estate vineyard was the 2019 Rose.

I’ve said several times that the Toil wines have increased in quality over the years. One thing I have been so impressed with is the consistency of the wines, particularly the novelty of his Rose wine. Chris’s Rose wines are very serious. These are stand-alone wines that liken the nuance of Domaine Ott, Domaine Tempier and other great Provencale bottlings that show not only ripe red fruits but gorgeous non-fruit tones and vibrant acidity.

I was completely enamored with his 2020 Toil Oregon Rose (OB, 93) which is incredible good and shows remarkable nuance, with vibrant acidity, wonderful tension and bright red fruits. His 2019 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir (OB, 93) is a stunning wine made from a challenging vintage for Pinot Noir. Learn more about this great winery at toiloregon.com Here are the brilliant new wines by Toil Oregon. 

2020 Toil Oregon Rose- Year after year, Toil Oregon continue to produce a really serious Rose, with an electric color and fabulous aromatic and flavor range. This 2020 edition shows lovely earthy tones alongside Yakima cherry, white peach and shades of guava puree that all dazzle in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant but also beautifully textured. Ripe red fruits collide with smoke, kumquat zest, peat moss and wild mushroom on the palate. The flavor range is nothing short of outstanding. The gratifying length adds to the enjoyment, as this beautiful wine will cellar well over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2027- 93

2019 Toil Oregon Chardonnay- Aged for ten months in 16% new French oak, this beautiful new Chardonnay shows ripe melon with toasted hazelnut and lemon zest dusted brioche tones that build in the glass. The polished texture adds to the enjoyment, as does the exceedingly long finish. Gratifying with its viscosity and crisp acidity, this outstanding new wines will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2019 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir- Earthy, rich and utterly beautiful to savor now, the 2019 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir is a resounding success in this somewhat challenging vintage for red wines. A whiff of black truffle shavings catches your eye, as layers of ripe loganberry and peat moss tones all come together nicely. The palate shows a soft sense of mouthfeel, as minerals collide with shades of smoke and a great core of red and dark fruits. This finishes long with black fruits and minerals. Great to enjoy now, this has at least another ten years ahead of it, picking up earthy tones as it cellars. Drink 2021-2033- 93

Audeant

A relatively new winery out of Oregon, Audeant utilizes the talents of Andrew Reichers, who formerly applied his trade at famed Antica Terra. As I was last year when I first tried these wines, I was massively impressed with the degree of tension, richness and terroir that I noticed in the glass. Originally from Eugene, Oregon, he has a long-standing history in the wine industry, originally starting his career with helping with wine production in Santa Barbara at a bulk wine facility. Andrew was the first employee at Sanguis under epic winemaker Matthias Pippig and has also spent time in New Zealand, at Burn Cottage, and in Burgundy in the Haute Cote working for Claire Naudin at Domaine Naudin Ferrand. More recently Andrew has served for five years as the assistant winemaker at Antica Terra and Lillian with Maggie Harrison prior to joining and founding Audeant Wines with Proprietor, Teal Walker, in 2016. Andrew has an awesome resume in wine. 

I adored the new 2019 Audeant Rose (OB, 92) which is fresh and vibrant, with a gorgeous texture.I was so impressed with the deeply satisfying 2018 Audreant ‘Nysa Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which has great salty terroir and smoky tones with dark fruit tones. This is clearly a winery to watch. Learn more about this exciting new winery at https://www.audeant.com Here are the beautiful new wine releases by Audeant. 

2019 Audeant Rose- Made from Pinot Noir grapes, this electric Rose shows wild strawberry and melon tones aromatically alongside shades of forest floor. The palate shows plenty of rich texture and vibrant acidity, as well as wonderful length. Pretty red fruits melange with red rose water and shades of orange rind on the palate. Great to savor now, this has some cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2026- 92

2018 Audeant ‘Seven Springs Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from this famed spot in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, the wine shows toasted brioche and hazelnut tones alongside Meyer lemon zest and shades of baking spice dusted cantaloupe on the nose. The palate shows vibrant acidity and a soft texture, with outstanding length. Layers of buttercream and minerals, alongside Marcona almond and honeydew melon all impress. With plenty of lip-smacking acidity and weight, this has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2018 Audeant ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 Audeant ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir is a stunning new entry level bottling by the talented Andrew Reichers. The combination of finesse and weight here really entices as ripe dark fruits mingle with orange rind, tobacco leaf and pine needles. Firm tannins hold everything in place. Great to savor now, this has some excellent cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2018 Audeant ‘Nysa Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- I have long enjoyed wines from the ‘Nysa Vineyard’ and this is a terrific new 2018 bottling. Smoky undertones entice with ripe dark cherry and roasted fig tones with damp earthy accents on this evocative nose. The palate is highly fresh and packs a punch with its deep core of dark fruits. Milk chocolate and peat moss tones add to the enjoyment. Great to enjoy right now, this has another decade or more ahead of it. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2018 Audeant ‘Luminous Hills Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2018 ‘Luminous Hills Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is another outstanding wine by Audeant. Ripe red currants mingle with smoke, menthol and shades of teaberry on the nose. The palate is very fresh with gobs of finesse. Gratifying red and dark fruits collide with minerals,  peat moss and saline drenched damp earth. The terroir here is seriously good. Drink 2021-2033- 93

Parabellum

A truly super set of second wines, Parabellum is an incredible wine project by Force Majeure that captures the art of blending. A man needing no introduction, Todd Alexander came to Force Majeure Vineyards from Bryant Family Wines, crafting some of the premier Cabernet Sauvignon in the Napa Valley. I have been consistently impressed with the level of tension alongside deep dark fruit flavors and texture that Todd has been able to yield in these second wines.

I can see that in the past decade the Force Majeure Vineyard is continuing to develop into one of the most impressive on Red Mountain. This diverse site has eight distinct soil types that are divided into small “micro-blocks,” as this steep vineyard ranges in elevation from 960 to 1,230 feet. The rocky upper-slope with shallow soil is well suited to Syrah and Grenache, while the lower blocks of the vineyard are comprised of deep, well-drained Warden soils, where Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc thrive.

I recently had the chance to check out the 2018 wines by Parabellum and they were gorgeous across the board. The 2018 Parabellum ‘Alluvio’ Red Wine (OB, 93) is an ode to the great wines of the Right Bank of Bordeaux, with a higher level of mouthfeel and viscosity. I also adored the 2018 Parabellum ‘Coulee’ Red Wine (OB, 93) which is also beautifully textured and has outstanding dark fruit flavors. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/wp/wines/parabellum/ Here are the great new wines by Parabellum.

2018 Parabellum ‘Coulee’ Red Wine- A blend 90% Syrah and the remainder Mourvedre, this densely colored wine shows layers of black currants and blackberry compote with shade of tar and black licorice on the palate. Dense, chewy and layered, this is thrilling and forward stuff to enjoy in its youth but will provide drinking enjoyment for another eight to ten years. Drink 2020-2028- 93

2018 Parabellum ‘Alluvio’ Red Wine- This great Right Bank style wine shows plenty of mid-palate ripeness and packs a punch. Ripe dark currants mingle with roasted dates, espresso bean and lighter dark and red floral tones on the palate. Full-bodied, showing a good air of viscosity and tension, the 2018 ‘Alluvio’ is ready to dance now and should cellar well over the next seven to nine years. Drink 2021-2028- 93

Januik and Novelty Hill

Sitting across from Andrew Januik, I was not surprised with his grin, looking very content as we tasted through the wines. A few weeks back I had the pleasure in tasting with one of the outstanding young winemaking talents in Washington State. Andrew Januik learned from one of the best, Mike Januik, who was formerly head winemaker at Chateau Ste. Michelle and Col Solare before starting his own winery. Mike is a master of crafting great wines from literally any varietal. For years I have admired his Chardonnay wines that show insanely good aging potential — even from hot sites like the Cold Creek Vineyard. These guys are also crafting some of the greatest values wines in the state.

One of my all-time favorite wineries to taste at, Januik/Novelty Hill is a must visit for anyone checking out the Woodinville wine scene. The winery is modern and spacious, with one of the area’s top outdoor spaces. If you have never been to Januik/Novelty Hill, then you are in for a treat.

While the space is gorgeous, the wines are even better. I love the 2019 Januik ‘Sagemoor’ Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 91) which a great core of freshness with great melon tones. I was really impressed by the 2018 Januik ‘Stillwater Vineyard’ Viognier (OB, 92) which has great verve and a soft texture, with outstanding length. The red wines from Januik and Novelty Hill were really impressive across the board. One great value is their 2018 Novely Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Malbec (OB, 93) which completely overdelivers for the price.  Learn more about these great wines at https://www.noveltyhilljanuik.com Here are the outstanding new wines by Januik and Novelty Hill.

2019 Januik ‘Sagemoor Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc- Tones of lychee and gooseberry with Japanese pear all fill the nose. The palate is plush with a soft texture and layers of melon, pear and starfruit flavors, with a good sense of minerality. Enjoy over the next several years while the great sense of freshness is intact. Drink 2020-2024- 91

2019 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Viognier- This beautiful new Viognier has 6% Roussanne blended in, as the wine delivers lots of honeysuckle, Bartlett pear and green papaya tones on the nose. The texture here is insanely good, as is the wonderful sense of length. Drink 2021-2026- 92

2019 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Roussanne- The nose here is seriously good with ripe peach and lychee tones that mingle with shades of wet stone on the nose. The freshness and texture here really entice as Japanese pear, nectarine and nutty and damp earth undertones. Outstanding to enjoy now, enjoy over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2026- 92

2019 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Novelty Hill has been sourcing wines from this great, cooler site for Chardonnay since 2002. A large clonal selection here, this was aged in 33% new French oak prior to bottling. Buttercream and Macadamia nut tones mingle with wet stone and Pink Lady apple on this fantastic bouquet. The mouthfeel and length are outstanding, as is the wonderful mouth-watering acidity here. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next seven to ten years. Drink 2021-2028- 92

2018 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Grenache- The 2018 ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Grenache is another outstanding bottling by the talented Andrew Januik. Pretty red florals mingle with Mandarin orange rind and guava puree on this exotic bouquet. The mouthfeel here is outstanding as this beautiful wine delivers plenty of bright red fruits with tobacco leaf and blood orange zest undertones. Drink 2021-2028- 92

2018 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Malbec- The 2018 ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Malbec overdelivers, as does much of this lineup. The nose is gorgeous with espresso bean, dark chocolate shavings and blueberry compote with violet undertones. Soft, round and generous, this delivers gobs of dark and blue fruits with espresso bean tones. The long finish lingers. This is just killer for being under 30 bucks. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2018 Novelty Hill ‘Il Corvo’ Red Wine- This is the first edition of this wine that is Cabernet Sauvignon dominant red blend with smaller parts Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The nose delivers plenty of spicy dark fruits alongside graphite and tar tones. The freshness here is really good as the blackberry, scorched earth and graphite tones all impress, with lighter tobacco leaf tones. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2018 Novelty Hill ‘Oxbow’ Red Wine- A blend of Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah, the 2018 ‘Oxbow’ shows dried herbs and smoky undertones alongside a rich core of blackberry and huckleberry tones on the nose. The palate is fresh with wonderful finesse and a greta mid-palate sense of weight. This seamless wine that delivers plenty of dried herbs,  mulberry and dark fruit tones is absolutely singing now as thawing will provide plenty of drinking enjoyment over the next eight tot en years. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2018 Januik ‘Weinbau Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc- The 2018 Januik ‘Weinbau Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc is a gorgeous effort from this exciting vintage. Bell pepper tones with mocha and anise mark the nose. The palate shows similar traits with a great core of dark fruits and chocolate fudge alongside bell pepper. The seamless texture adds to the enjoyment. Drink 2021-2033-93

2018 Januik ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 Januik ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an awesome wine by the talented Andrew Januik. Once on the mouth the freshness and finesse beautifully compliments the core of espresso grounds, huckleberry pie and shades of Black Forest cake that all delightfully come together on the palate. This is really tough to beat at this price point. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2018 Januik ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a really great showing that also has some outstanding aging potential.  Scorched earth, tobacco leaf, blackberry compote and tar with black licorice all imposes on the palate. This is seriously good stuff. Drink 2021-2037- 93

2018 Januik ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvinvon- The 2018 ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an awesome wine that shows plenty of power and viscosity with a great veil of tension. Right away you are impressed with the massive core of dark fruits with tobacco, milk chocolate and scorched earth tones on the palate. Drink 2021-2038- 94

2018 Januik ‘Ciel du Cheval Vineyard’ Syrah- I adored the 2018 ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Syrah. You have to love the smoky tones on the nose with salted meats and black olive tapenade. The palate shows really great flavor density and weight with light tannins and smoked meats alongside black olive and blackberry compote. This is downright delicious wine that shows a great acid backbone. Drink 2021-2033- 94

Liberty Lake Cellars

As we roll on through Washington Wine Month we bring you a winery you may have never heard of producing some really good wines from the Red Mountain AVA. The tasting room originally opened its doors in 2007 with the release of its 2005 vintage produced by original owners Doug and Shelly Smith. Mark and Sarah Lathrop took over the operation in January 2016 with the intent of making the same big bold reds. 

The owners met back in 2005 at Eastern Washington University’s MBA program and they both found a love of wine together. Fast forward 10 years they ended up purchasing Liberty Lake Cellars together. I really enjoyed the new wines across the board, including the 2018 Liberty Lake Cellars Tempranillo (OB, 90) which is big and bold for the varietal. Also impressive is the 2018 Liberty Lake Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 91) which is dense and has ripe dark fruit flavors alongside good freshness. Learn more about this exciting winery at http://www.libertylakewinecellars.com Here are the new wines by Liberty Lake. 

2018 Liberty Lake Cellars Tempranillo- Sourced from the ‘Red Heaven Vineyard’ on Red Mountain, this shows nice toasty oak tones that mingle with blackberry, sagebrush and milk chocolate flavors on the palate. Forward with its style of juicy dark fruits, this is downright delicious stuff that is drinking beautifully even at the three year mark. Drink 2021-2026-  90

2018 Liberty Lake Cellars ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Carmenere- I have had very few Carmenere bottling from this vineyard, but this edition really impresses, as this is pure Washington Carmenere. The whiff of bell pepper on the nose invites you, as the wine takes on a nice sense of texture. I love the varietal typicality here as rich dark fruits parade with red bell pepper, sagebrush and dark chocolate shavings. Delicious to savor now, this has another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2030- 92

2018 Liberty Lake Cellars Cabernet Franc- The 2018 Liberty Lake Cabernet Franc is another seriously good bottling. Taking on a soft mouthfeel, the ‘Scoony Flats Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc shows rich cassis and dark chocolate tones alongside damp soil and dried herbs on the palate. Full-bodied and delicious, with good structure and weight, this will deliver drinking enjoyment for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2033- 91

2018 Liberty Lake Cabernet Sauvignon- Rich, viscous, and showing good intensity, the 2018. Liberty Lake Cabernet Sauvignon is a strong showing from this great vintage on Red Mountain.  Macerated cherry and roasted figs collide with minerals, coffee grounds and chocolate cake flavors on the palate. Delightful to savor in its youth, this will drink well for another decade or more. Drink 2021-2033- 91

2018 Liberty Lake ‘The Golden Ticket’ Red Wine- A Reserve bottling by them which is mainly Cabernet Franc and Merlot (27% each), with smaller portions Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Carmenere and Petit Verdot, this shows off tar and black licorice tones alongside good acidity and firm tannins that hold everything in place. Rich and decadent, this will cellar well over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2021-2033- 91

2018 Liberty Lake ‘Reserve’ Syrah- The 2018 Liberty Lake ‘Reserve’ Syrah shows forward and juicy dark fruits with creosote and bacon fat undertones. Full-bodied and delicious now, enjoy over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2027- 90

Chateau d’Issan Vertical Tasting

One of the storied houses in Margaux, Chateau d’Issan remarkably dates back to a property fortress in the seigneury of La Mothe-Cantenac back in the 12th century. Sadly the building was demolished five hundred years later by Baron d’Essenault when he inherited the estate. The Baron had the present property built, which today still has some beautiful medieval features, such as its imposing gateway, its towers and its moat, relics of its former defenses. A wall built in 1644 still surrounds the vineyard. The chateau is lived in today, having undergone several phases of renovation. In 1970, after the Cruse family undertook refurbishment work, the chateau was included on the French complementary list of historical buildings. The chateau name dates back to the Essenault family, who ended up renaming it, contracting their name to “Issan” and thus Château d’Issan was born.

The property has been a 3rd Grand Cru Classe since the 1855 classification. During the period between the two World Wars, the estate was unfortunately left to deteriorate, but was reawakened by the Cruse family, owners since 1945. Under the management of Lionel Cruse, the chateau has been restored, the installations modified and the vineyard replanted. Since 1998 Lionel’s son Emmanuel Cruse has been making significant investments in the vines and cellars. The property spans 67 total hectares including 52 hectares (109 acres) in Margaux, 5 hectares (7.5 acres) in Haut-Médoc and 10 hectares (24.5 acres) in Bordeaux Supérieur. Soils are well-draining gravel and 15-metre (50-foot) high alluvial hills, rounded by erosion. 

I will fully admit that these wines were seriously impressive across the board. One of the major surprises was how good the 2012 Chateau d’Issan (OB, 93) showed throughout the night. This was a rich, round and generous wine that still had bright acidity and some really nice cellaring potential. Vintages 2014-2016 were utterly killer wines that really need some more time in the cellar to fully come together but they all have incredible cellaring potential. I was blown away with the 2010 Chateau d’Issan (OB, 96) which is really coming into its own now at the eleven year mark. If enjoying now, give this a two to three hour decant. Here are my notes of the incredible wines from Chateau d’Issan. 

2010 Chateau d’Issan Bordeaux- The 2010 Chateau d’Issan Bordeaux shows off lovely sage and thyme aromatics with shades of dark currants and graphite tones that all meld in the glass. The palate is fleshy and downright fantastic, bordering on liquid silk. Rich dark fruits march on with dark chocolate shavings, black truffle, and great verve. Medium to full-bodied, and showing a sensational texfture, this harmonious bottling will provide drinking enjoyment for many decades to come. Drink 2021-2040- 96

2011 Chateau d’Issan Bordeaux- The 2011 Chateau d’Issan is a glowing wine from what was a challenging vintage in Bordeaux. On the nose this takes on more fresh herbs with red bell pepper, anise and shades of wet asphalt. The palate is fresh and vibrant with great acidity. Medium-bodied with great finesse, this doesn’t have the weight of the 2010 but has some really nice aging potential. Drink 2021-2038- 91

2012 Chateau d’Issan Bordeaux-The. 2012 d’Issan’ shows ripe cassis and anise tones alongside baking spices and roasted date tones that all impress. The palate is beautifully textured with great verve and poise. Layers of ripe dark fruit parade with creosote, tobacco leaf, dark chocolate shavings and hints of espresso bean on the palate. This shows great length and has some seriously good cellaring potential now. Drink 2021-2035- 93

2014 Chateau d’Issan Bordeaux- The 2014 d’Issan is a formidable wine that has some massive cellaring potential. The downright intoxicating bouquet impresses with great range from red bell pepper to anise and baking spices alongside red currant jelly. The palate is super fresh and vibrant with a seamless texture. The length also impresses. This is really vibrant and youthful but needs some time to fully develop in the cellar. Drink 2024-2045- 94

2015 Chateau d’Issan Bordeaux- The 2015 d’Issan’ is a stunning new bottling from this storied estate. This 70th edition bottling shows a nice core of dark fruits with tobacco leaf, cedar and espresso bean. The palate is seamless but also really gratifying. Mocha, tar, anise, and dried sage all impress on the palate. This is decadent wine but also had a great acid and tannic backing. Drink 2023-2055- 95

2016 Chateau d’Issan Bordeaux- The 2016 d’Issan is a magical effort from his historic vintage. Comprised of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon and 36% Merlot, the wine was stored in 50% new and 50% one-year-old French oak for 18 months prior to bottling. On the nose this shows damp leather and wet gravel tones alongside a rich core of cassis and wild blackberry. The palate is fresh and vibrant — full of life. Layers of dark currants and tilled soils are woven together with espresso grounds and toasty wood tones on the palate. The length here is extraordinary. Try not to touch this beautiful wine for at least a few more years. Drink 2025-2050- 95

Basel Cellars

A winery with a longstanding history in the Walla Walla Valley,  Basel Cellars dates back to 2002 which ironically was the year I graduated from Whitman College. Local grape grower Greg Basel purchased the Estate House and the surrounding 85 acre Double River Ranch. Most of the unique custom features from the original house remain, including a gated entrance with grand driveway under a turreted bridge, 70,000 gallon pool with 2,048 square foot detached private cabana, and one-of-a-kind wood and stonework throughout the property. At this site, Mr. Basel saw two vital components to create an estate winery.

The rich soil and the hilltop position between Yellowhawk Creek and the Walla Walla River made for the perfect vineyard site. The second component was a man-made, 9600sq. ft., temperature controlled, subterranean structure (now referred to as "The Batcave") which had previously housed a car collection. The underground space was as perfect for winemaking  akin to the caves of France. The winery has a new ownership which includes Chad Mackay, founder of  El Gaucho hospitality and Dan Thiessen, managing partner of the  Walla Walla Steak Company and Crossbuck Brewing. 

It was many years ago that I first visited this property outside the town of Walla Walla. Now at the helm is winemaker Dirk Brink who is originally from South Africa. His new wines were really nice. I enjoyed the 2019 Basel Cellars Chenin Blanc (OB, 90) which shows of a silky texture and has good ripeness and acidity. Evne better is the 2016 Basel Cellars ‘Merriment’ Red Wine (OB, 91) which is a great warm vintage effort that is drinking marvelously now at the five year mark.  Learn more at https://www.baselcellars.com Here are my notes on the new wines by Basel Cellars.

2019 Basel Cellars Chenin Blanc- Sourced from old vines, this leans towards texture and delivers plenty of ripe orchard fruits alongside lemongrass and nutty undertones. Drink 2021-2025- 90

2015 Basel Cellars ‘Inspired’ Red Wine- A right bank inspired wine comprised of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, the ‘Inspired’ shows black tea and exotic spices woven together with red cherry candy and red bell pepper undertones on the palate. Nicely balanced, enjoy this over the next five years. Drink 2021-2026- 90

2016 Basel Cellars ‘Merriment’ Red Wine- The ‘Merriment’ delivers well-balanced cassis and dark currant flavors alongside shades of wild blackberry, milk chocolate  and tobacco leaf on the palate. This is right in its sweet spot. Drink 2021-2026- 91

Sequitur

When Mike Etzel crafts a new wine, the wine world eagerly waits in anticipation. The co-founder of Beaux Freres back in the late 1980s, Mike has more recently passed on the BF winemaking duties to his son, Mikie. Mike wanted to develop an adjacent property which is adjacent to his famed ‘Upper Terrace Vineyard’ and started planting Sequitur in 2010. Various clonal selections (Wädenswil, Coury, Swan, Calera, Eyrie, Mt. Eden, Rochioli, and Martin Ray) here are tightly spaced, as this biodynamically farmed vineyard is a truly unique site with large Fir trees that line the property. 

I was blown away with the new 2018 Sequitur ‘The Jack’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) which is silky and rich, named after Mike’s beloved grandson. This glorious wine has a long life ahead of it. Learn more about these special wines at https://www.sequiturwine.com Here is the glorious new release Piinot Noir by Sequitur. 

2018 Sequitur ‘The Jack’ Pinot Noir- Named after Michael Etzel’s beloved grandson, this outstanding 2018 Sequitur Pinot Noir is a resounding success from this warm vintage in Oregon. The nose is deeply perfumed with guava and dark cherry tones alongside peat moss, Mandarin orange rind and Umami tones that all meld in the glass. The palate is seamlessly textured with great poise and length. Layers of tart red fruits mingle with smoky minerals, pine needles and shades of kumquat rind on the palate. Simply gorgeous now with its very pretty and pure red fruit profile, this beautiful Ribbon Ridge AVA Pinot Noir will have some great cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2035- 95

Va Piano

Sitting across from Justin Wylie, I saw an air of confidence from him. ‘I think you are gonna really enjoy the ‘18s’ he said with with a grin. As I tasted through the new lineup, I thought to myself that these just might be the best Va Piano wines that I’ve ever had — or at least on-par with their great 2012s. 

One of the great wineries on the south side of the Walla Walla Valley, Va Piano, or ‘go quietly’ in Italian, was started by Walla Walla native Justin Wylie. Va Piano has the luxury of sourcing from some of the top vineyards in the state including the DuBrul, Stoney Vine, and Les Collines Vineyards. Justin’s first first commercial crush in the fall of 2003 and soon later Va Piano was born. He has seen the valley grow and his winery production has expanded considerably as well.

Justin is down to earth and a downright awesome guy to chat wine with. I loved his 2018 vintage wines which have great depth and concentration, with firm tannins and good poise. An outstanding wine for the price, the 2018 Va Piano ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 92) has wonderful richness and a silky mouthfeel. This is seriously good stuff for the price. I adored the 2018 Va Piano ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Syrah (OB, 94) which is pure Walla Walla Rocks AVA. Stony and really savory,  this is one for any serious collector of Washington Syrah. Learn more about these fantastic wines at http://www.vapianovineyards.com Here are the great new release wines by Va Piano. 

2018 Va Piano ‘The Ox’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Forward, juicy and delicious, the 2018 ‘The Ox’ delivers plenty of rich dark fruits with chocolate and tobacco undertones. Drink 2021-2025- 90 

2018 Va Piano ‘The Ox’ Sauvignon Blanc- Gooseberry and honeydew melon mark the nose. The palate shows a soft texture with white grapefruit, unripe melon and gooseberry tones. Drink 2021-2023- 88 

2018 Va Piano ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Dense and loaded with dark fruits on the nose, the 2018 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows a soft mouthfeel with plenty of freshness and verve. Ripe dark currants march on with sweet pipe tobacco, mocha and tar tones on the palate. Great to savor now, this has some good cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2018 Va Piano ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah- Smoky, savory and downright delicious, this Syrah shows rich cassis and  blackberry compote flavors, alongside smoked meats and shades of green olive on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2021-2029- 91

2018 Va Piano ‘Uniti’ Red Wine- A blend of 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc,  with the remainder Merlot and Malbec, the 2018 ‘Uniti’ shows gorgeous Asian spices on the nose with red bell pepper, creme de violette and sagebrush tones on the nose. The palate is seamless, showing off a downright sumptuous texture. With great length and verve, this outstanding new Bordeaux style wine will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2035- 93

2018 Va Piano ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Merlot- This beautifully textured Merlot shows sandalwood with rich dark fruits, coffee grounds and pipe tobacco tones on the palate. This shows lots of finesse and length, as the 2018 Va Piano Merlot will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031- 91

2017 Va Piano ‘LImited Edition’ Petite Sirah- The 2017 Va Piano ‘Limited Edition’ Petite Sirah is one of the great wines of its kind in the state. Deep chocolate and blueberry coulis tones mingle with graphite, and Turkish coffee tones on the palate. Gorgeous now, this has some great cellaring potential ahead of it. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2018 Va Piano ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2018 ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Syrah is a masterpiece by the talented Justin Wylie. Right away the green olive tones impress alongside charcuterie, blackberries and shades of orange rind with bulls blood on the nose. The palate is silky and elegant with ripe red fruits that dance with wet stone, Umami, blood orange zest and green olives. Complex and delicious now, enjoy this fantastic single vineyard bottling over the next seven years. Drink 2021-2028- 94

2018 Va Piano ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ Syrah- Ripe, focused and wonderfully textured, the 2018 ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ Syrah shows dried herbs with ripe dark currants and brisket tones. This is very classic Les Collines aromatically. The palate has a touch of wet stone with a good core of dark fruits and tobacco alongside. Fresh herbs. Drink 2021-2028- 92

2018 Va Piano ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Syrah- Ripe dark currants and smoky tones mark the nose. The palate shows plenty of finesse with a light dusting of white pepper and salinity that holds everything in check. A great core of dark fruits greet you with sagebrush and crushed mint undertones. Truly outstanding, this terroir-driven and elegant Syrah will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another eight years. Drink 2021-2029- 93

2018 Va Piano ‘Rosebud Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- An awesome new bottling, the 2018 ‘Rosebud Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows off its inky color in the glass. Creme de violette, mocha and tar tones all impress on the palate. Firm tannins hold everything in place. With great length, this has a long life ahead of it with its great core of dark fruits and superb minerality. Drink 2021-2035- 93

2018 Va Piano ‘DuBrul Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Downright massively inky in the glass, this superb new bottling from one of the state’s best vineyards for Cabernet Sauvignon shows baking spices, anise, scorched earth, dark currant cordial and shades of tar with exotic spices on this downright scintillating nose. The palate is heady, beautifully concentrated, yet has a great air of restraint. The seamless texture glides throughout the drinking experience. This is nothing short of a masterpiece by the talented Justin Wylie that will continue to evolve well for many decades to come. Drink 2021-2040- 95

Airfield Estates

A few days ago I was on the phone with Marcus Miller, winemaker at Airfield Estates. We began talking about his penchant for making top class dessert wines and I mentioned to him that I had a bottle of his 2013 ‘Late Harvest’ Riesling. I simply had to open it on the call and boy was I massively impressed. This wine was fresh and vibrant, marvelously textured with gorgeous peach, apricot and candied ginger tones. It isn’t easy to make a great dessert wine but Marcus definitely brings a deft hand with these wines. 

As we begin Washington Wine Month, we bring you a fantastic producer of everything from Viognier to Syrah to dessert wine. Airfield Estates is one of the older wineries in the Yakima Valley, located in Prosser. The Miller family has a longstanding history in the valley, as in 1951 H. Lloyd Miller became the chairman of the Roza Irrigation Canal Board, and began farming on his property, Airport Ranch, where the winery now sits. His son, Don, took over the estate, planing a range of crops including asparagus, alfalfa, potatoes, onions, oats, hogs, cattle, mint, and sugar beets. In 1968, Don planted Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and Cabernet Sauvignon marking the early beginnings of the Airfield Estate vineyard. Don’s son, Mike Miller, gradually transitioned our farm into what it is today which consists of 830 acres of wine grapes and 350 acres of Concord juice grapes. In 2005, Mike founded Airfield Estates Winery, and he brought his son, Marcus, and daughter, Lori, on board to help manage the daily operations. 

Marcus Miller has served as winemaker for Airfield Estates for many years. He is a fantastic, down to earth guy. He is producing some excellent wines that ‘fly’ under the radar. Marcus has previously interned at Canoe Ridge in Walla Walla, also worked as a winemaker at Tsillan Cellars in Chelan. His new release wines were really good across the board. Check out the beautiful 2019 Airfield Estates Chardonnay (OB, 90) which is a killer bargain and has great range with a long finish. This wine shows good richness and wonderful herbal tones. I really enjoyed the 2018 Airfield Estates ‘Reserve’ Syrah (OB, 92) which has gorgeous terroir here with the smoky and meaty character alongside a great core of dark fruits. This one is sure to please any lover of Washington Syrah. Learn about this great historic Yakima Valley winery at http://www.airfieldwines.com Here are the great new wines by Airfield Estates.

2020 Airfield Estates Sauvignon Blanc- Airfield Estates has remarkably been growing Sauvignon Blanc on their estate vineyard for 40 years. This shows lovely unripe melon and starfruit tones with hints of gooseberry and Jalepeno pepper on the palate. Showing good freshness, enjoy in the short-term. Drink 2021-2024- 89

2019 Airfield Estates Chardonnay- The 2019 Airfield Estates Chardonnay saw a combination of stainless steel and French oak barrel fermentation before bottling. The resulting wine shows a soft texture and great sense of mouthfeel, with ripe orchard fruits and banana tones that all lead to a long and gratifying finish. Drink 2021-2025- 90

2019 Airfield Estates ‘Donald D. Miller’ Chardonnay- A limited production, roughly 200 case bottling, the 2019 ‘Donald D. Miller’ was stored in largely new French oak (85%) prior to bottling. The wine is beautifully textured while showing good freshness and bright acidity. Sourdough bread and lemon zest tones collide with minerals, smoke and flinty undertones. A great wine to enjoy now, with serious length, the 2019 ‘Donald D. Miller’ will cellar well over the next eight plus years. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2018 Airfield Estates ‘Hellcat’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Hellcat’ blends Tempranillo (68%) with Syrah (32%). The palate shows a silky texture with rich red and dark fruits, with tobacco leaf, leather and milk chocolate tones. Delicious to savor now, enjoy this great effort over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2026- 90

2018 Lone Birch Syrah- The 2018 Lone Birch Syrah delivers some serious bang for your buck. Smoke and menthol tones fill the nose alongside cassis tones. The palate has good freshness and mid-palate ripeness with dark fruits and tobacco tones alongside smoky undertones. Drink 2021-2025- 89

2018 Airfield Estates ‘Mustang’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Mustang’ is a Rhone style blend of 64% Syrah with the remainder Grenache and Mourvedre. The wine is geared towards freshness but comes off a touch linear with pretty red fruits, green peppercorns and smoky undertones stealing the show. Drink 2021-2025- 89

2018 Airfield Estates ‘Reserve’ Syrah- Given a 2% Viognier co-ferment, the 2018 ‘Reserve’ Syrah is an awesome new wine by the talented team of Marcus Miller and Travis Maple. The nose shows gobs of smoked meats with lavender, white pepper and sage undertones alongside a core of rich dark fruits. The palate is plush, showing a soft texture and wonderful sense of depth and concentration. Bulls blood, blackberry cordial, mocha, tar and smoked brisket tones all wonderfully collide on the palate, with a good acid backbone. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next decade. Drink 2021-2030- 92

2018 Airfield Estates ‘Michael L. Miller’ Red Wine- This Rhone inspired wine blends 53% Syrah with 33% Grenache and 14% Mourvedre and is a tribute to Michael L. Miller who founded Airfield Estates. The nose entices with dried garrigue tones alongside smoked pork shoulder, venison blood and black currants that all march in unison. The palate is very fresh, focused and pure, with a soft mouthfeel and wonderful length. This has a great air of elegance and refinement with a seamless texture and a core of dark fruits and creosote, woven together with black pepper and smoky tones. Gorgeous to enjoy right now, this has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2032- 93

2018 Airfield Estates Cabernet Sauvignon- This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine was aged for nineteen months in 43% new French oak prior to bottling. Done in the fresher style, showing medium-bodied dark fruits and chocolate fudge flavors, this is best enjoyed over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2026- 89

2018 Airfield Estates ‘Runway’ Red Wine- A right bank style wine comprised of 55% Merlot with the remainder Cabernet Franc, the 2018 ‘Runway’ shows rich cassis and mocha tones, with cocoa powder dusted black cherry and pipe tobacco accents on the palate. Full-bodied and showing plenty of bright acidity, this has some really nice aging potential. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2018 Airfield Estates ‘H. Lloyd Miller’ Red Wine- A Cabernet Sauvignon dominant wine, the ‘H. Lloyd Miller’ Red Wine is a homage to Marcus Miller’s great-grandfather, a pioneer of the Yakima Valley, who founded their family farm in the early 1900’s and helped create the Roza Irrigation Canal, which supplies water to 72,000 acres of farmland in the Yakima Valley.  Once on the nose this takes on cassis and anise tones alongside sagebrush, huckleberry jelly and shades of Turkish coffee that all take shape in the glass. The palate is soft and elegant with a silky mouthfeel. Rich dark fruits parade with shades of blueberry, espresso bean and dried herbs. This is seriously good even at the three year mark, as the 2018 ‘H. Lloyd Miller’ Red Wine will cellar well for a decade or more to come. Drink 2021-2035- 93

2019 Airfield Estates ‘Late Harvest’ Riesling- Over the past decade or so, Airfield Estates has gained a sterling reputation for their dessert style wines. A recent phone call with Marcus Miller sparked me to uncork a 2013 ‘Late Harvest’ bottling that was still fresh and vibrant. The 2019 Airfield Estates ‘Late Harvest’ Riesling shows pretty honeysuckle and white peach aromatics alongside shades of candied ginger and kumquat tones. The palate is dense and viscous, giving an off an unctuous character. Layers of ripe peach and candied Mandarin orange oil with apricot jelly and stony minerals fill the palate. This is seriously good stuff now that will cellar for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2035- 93

Long Shadows

More than a decade ago I loved frequenting the Long Shadows tasting room in Woodinville. The project was still relatively young and somewhat under the radar, as I always wanted to be tasting new vintages and seeing some of the most exciting wines that our state has to offer. As we continue our Washington Wine Month, we bring you one of the outstanding producers in our state, Long Shadows. Long Shadows has made their name by crafting outstanding red wines with a superstar cast of winemaking talent that spans the globe. Gilles Nicault serves as Long Shadows head winemaker. A downright awesome guy to chat wine with, Gilles was formerly at Woodward Canyon and is one of the brightest talents in the state. One thing I have found with these wines over the years is how brilliantly they can cellar. Over the past year I’ve had the chance to consume wines from the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages and the wines are still youthful and really singing even at more than ten years of age. I have been really impressed particularly how their ‘Pedestal’ Merlot ages. Made by Michel Rolland, a few months back I adored their 2008 ‘Pedestal’ Merlot (OB, 95) which still has great acidity and borders liquid silk. 

The new releases by Long Shadows were seriously good across the board. Long Shadows produces one of the great Riesling wines in Washington and their 2019 Long Shadows Poet’s Leap Riesling (OB, 93) is dense and fresh with incredible length. The texture here is just insanely good. I adored the new 2017 Long Shadows ‘Pedestal’ Merlot (OB, 95) which has amazing concentration and poise,  with great non-fruit flavors like coffee and tea tones. Learn more about this amazing winery at http://www.longshadows.com/ Here are the amazing new release wines from Long Shadows.

2019 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling- The 2019 ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling is another sensational effort that is truly one of the great wines of its kind made in Washington. Given 1.1% G/L, this shows petrol and wet stones mingle with Japanese pear and gooseberry tones on the nose. The palate is fresh and beautifully textured with outstanding length. Orange blossom water, Sprite and sweetened cantaloupe flavors alongside crushed wet rock tones all impress on the nose. The verve, weight and length of the wine is really outstanding. Drink 2021-2029- 93

2017 Long Shadows ‘Pedestal’ Merlot- The 2017 Long Shadows ‘Pedestal’ Merlot is a scintillating new release that is already beautifully evolved once in the glass. Made my famed oenologist Michel Rolland, they have blended 82% Merlot with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Petit Verdot. Rich dark fruit aromatics impress, alongside mocha, tar and purple rose petals. The palate is round and downright voluptuous with a massive core of espresso bean and black cherry compote, alongside black tea and exotic spices on the palate. Full-bodied and showing a downright opulent texture, this beautiful wine will cellar well for at least another fifteen years. Drink 2021-2038- 95

2017 Long Shadows ‘Chester Kidder’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Chester Kidder’ is almost entirely sourced from the newly formed Candy Mountain AVA. A blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon with 26% Syrah and the remainder Petit Verdot. The wine shows espresso bean and red cherry candy tones alongside tobacco leaf, with black tea and exotic spices that all take shape in the glass. The palate is super fresh and vibrant with firm tannins that hold together milk chocolate covered espresso bean, tar, dark currants, boysenberry pie and menthol tones. The weight and length is outstanding a s the 2017 ‘Chester. Kidder’ will provide drinking enjoyment for several decades to come. Drink 2021-2038-  95

2019 Long Shadows ‘Botrytis’ Riesling- The 2019 ‘Botrytis’ Riesling is only the second time that Giles Nicault has made this wine over the past decade. Sourced from ’The Benches Vineyard’ this 13% residual sugar, Auslese style Riesling shows honeysuckle and orange marmalade tones woven together with candied ginger and apricot tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is very fresh and refined with Golden Delicious apple, sweetened papaya, with white raisin. The length and generous texture really add to the enjoyment as this beautiful new wine will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2035- 94

Auction of Washington Wines Private Barrel Auction Virtual Winemaker Series

Friends, please join me in the new Auction of Washington Wines Virtual Winemaker series that begins today, March 2nd and 4th to hear about these exclusive wines that will be up for bid in the Private Barrel Auction, held April 19-20. This week we’re featuring:

@jbookwalterwines

@baerwinery

@dunhamcellars

@doublebackwine

@laurenashtoncellars

@cotebonneville

Register here for March 2: https://auctionofwawines.org/private-barrel-auction-virtual-tasting-series-1/ Register here for March 4: https://auctionofwawines.org/virtual-tasting-series-2-private-barrel-auction/ Presented by @winebow

Thanks to our sponsors: @northwestfcs and @wa_state_wine