Domaine Serene Retrospective

As I sat alongside the winemaking team at Domaine Serene, we were all thrilled with what we saw in the glass. ‘Ooohs’ and ‘ahhs’ rang out amongst us all as we revisited some of the great wines made in Oregon spanning many decades. It had been more than a year since I had visited Domaine Serene, last frequenting right before Covid struck. It is hard to believe that more than thirty years ago Domaine Serene was founded by Dundee Hills pioneers Grace and Ken Evenstad, One of the most beautiful wineries in the Pacific Northwest, Domaine Serene is an absolute must visit for any Oregon wine lover. I fondly recall my first visit to Domaine Serene in 2002 and was absolutely blown away not only with the sweeping views of the Willamette Valley but the stunning wines. The consistency in these wines is something I really admire. The wines have some seriously good cellaring potential which is something that I and the entire winemaking team all agreed upon during our visit back into time. 

Tasting through this incredible retrospective I was so impressed by the aging potential of the older wines — both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The 1997 Domaine Serene ‘Cote Sud Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) still has a long way to go in the cellar. This wine shows insanely good range with a light Fino sherry quality. Even better is the sensational 2012 Domaine Serene ‘Etoile Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) which is a silky and shows immense concentration even at nearly ten years of age. I was just blown away with one of the stars of 2012, the Domaine Serene ‘Mark Bradford Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 96) which is really singing with its magnificent texture and dense mouthfeel. This has decades of life ahead of it. Learn more about this famed Oregon estate at http://domaineserene.com/ Here are the incredible new release wines by Domaine Serene.

1997 Domaine Serene ‘Cote Sud Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The wine is remarkably elegant and fresh now at the twenty four year mark. Roasted hazelnuts and brioche tones combine with damp earth and white peach on the palate. Remarkably this shows a light Fino sherry profile. Stunning and gorgeous, with its finesse and beautiful texture, this is just singing now and will cellar well for at least another five years. Drink 2021-2025- 94

2012 Domaine Serene ‘Etoile Vineyard’ Chardonnay-The 2012 ‘Etoile Vineyard’ Chardonnay is a stunning effort that is really hitting its secondary stride right now. The sense of mouthfeel and veil of tension is seriously good. Lemon zest and chalky terroir combine with salted Macadamia nut and shades of vanilla creme brûlée on the palate. The gratifying length adds to the enjoyment. Drink 2021-2033- 95

2011 Domaine Serene ‘Coer Blanc’ White Pinot Noir- Fresh and vibrant now at the ten year mark, the 2011 ‘Coer Blanc’ White Pinot Noir is a beautifully evolved white Pinot Noir. Banana and nutty tones combine with papaya and suggestions of macerated Japanese pear on the nose. The palate is plush and beautifully textured. Layers of buttercream and white peach combine with salty earth and a seamless sense of mouthfeel. The veil of tension really drives this wine. Drink 2021-2031- 95

2012 Domaine Serene ‘Winery Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2012 ‘Winery Hill Vineyard’ is a beautiful, fresh and dense Pinot Noir by Domaine Serene. Once on the nose sour cherry and pomegranate seed tones combine what sandalwood and blood orange zest aromatics. The palate is plush and seamless with a soft texture. Salty undertones and a touch of volcanic earth add to the enjoyment here as this outstanding effort will provide drinking enjoyment for another fifteen years. Drink 2021-2035- 95

2012 Domaine Serene ‘Mark Bradford Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2012 ‘Mark Bradford Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a dense and tightly wound effort that is just singing now at the nine-year mark. Lightly tannic and showing a gratifying sense of weight and mouthfeel, this reveals dark cherry and red raspberry cordial alongside tilled soil and kumquat flavors. This is really just a baby even at nearly ten years old. Drink 2021-2036- 96

2018 Domaine Serene ‘Cellar Society Triple Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 Domaine Serene ‘Cellar Society Triple Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a special, limited production wine made for their top tier wine club. Dense red and dark fruits collide with smoky minerals and shades of blood orange zest on the palate. The sensational sense of texture and bright acidity really drive the core of fruit. Gorgeous now, this has another fifteen plus years to go. Drink 2021-2038- 95

Domaine Drouhin Oregon

It is my pleasure to share one of the bright stars of Oregon. Founded back in in the 1980s, the Domaine Drouhin Oregon was founded by famed Burgundy producer, Domaine Drouhin, headed by Robert Drouhin, who decided to purchase land in the Dundee Hills. What was previously only Christmas trees and wheat, the Drouhin family began planting their first vineyards in Oregon. Robert chose his daughter, Véronique, to serve as DDO winemaker, and her brother Philippe Drouhin took responsibility for viticulture.  In 1988, DDO produced its first vintage, from purchased grapes, and in 1989 built the landmark, four-story gravity flow winery.

I visited the winery several times last year and am always blown away with the sweeping views of the valley. Domaine Drouhin Oregon has been one of my favorite stops since I first visited the Willamette Valley in 2002. My uncle, Dr. Brian Lueth, first introduced me to this estate, with some epic ‘Laurene’ bottling from the 1990s and early 2000s. Needless to say, quality has remained very high at this famed Oregon estate.

Last week I had a glorious visit to the estate on a warm spring day. I was so impressed with the overall quality in the wines. Overall these brought great finesse with a darker fruit profile than many other vintages, capturing the heat of 2018 but showing a good acid backbone. These are big wines meant to age. I adored the 2018 Domaine Drouhin Oregon ‘Laurene’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) which really needs a bit more time in the bottle but shows immense aging potential. I adored the 2018 Domaine Drouhin ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which shows excellent value and is dense and chewy — really benefiting from some air right now. Learn more about this iconic Oregon winery  at http://www.domainedrouhin.com/ Here are the awesome new releases from Domaine Drouhin Oregon. 

2019 Domaine Drouhin ‘Arthur’ Chardonnay- The 2019 ‘Arthur’ saw roughly 15% new oak and this was the first vintage where the entire wine went through malolactic fermentation. Green apple and tangerine peel with stony tones fill the nose. The palate shows off a silky mouthfeel with a grpeatsense of texture. Layers of buttercream and papaya alongside melon and stony undertones all collide on the palate. Drink 2021-2028- 92

2018 Domaine Drouhin Roserock Chardonnay- The 2018 Roserock Chardonnay shows a vibrant sense of salinity with pear and green apple tones alongside baking spices and sourdough bread. Nicely textured and showing a soft mouthfeel, this gorgeous effort will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2021-2029- 93

2019 Domaine Drouhin ‘Edition Limitee’ Chardonnay- The 2019 ‘Edition Limitee’ is a stunning new wine that has incredible density and finesse. On the nose this takes on pear and baking spices alongside buttered brioche and banana tones that all meld in the glass. The palate is dense and plush with a soft texture. This shows a weightless quality that makes this effortlessly glide across the mid-palate. With incredible verve and finesse, this outstanding effort will cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2021-2036- 95

2018 Domaine Drouhin ‘Maigold’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Marigold’ Chardonnay shows flinty undertones on the nose with Japanese pear and kumquat tones. The palate is silky and elegant with a big sense of mouthfeel. Layers of sourdough bread and lemon zest collide with minerals and smoky undertones. This concentrated and dense Chardonnay has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2018 Domaine Drouhin ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir is a stunning effort from this famed estate. Once on the nose this unveils teaberry and orange rind alongside smoke and black tea on the nose. The palate is silky and elegant with a seamless texture. Ripe dark currants collide with wild blackberry, black tea and red raspberry cordial on the palate. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2019 Domaine Drouhin ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir is fresh and pretty effort that is showing brilliantly right now. The palate shows a soft mouthfeel with good elegant and a core of red currant, red cherry and red raspberry flavors alongside silty terroir and a light dusting of salinity. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2019 Domaine Drouhin Roserock Pinot Noir- The 2019 Domaine Drouhin Roserock Pinot Noir shows brilliantly even in its youth. Rich red fruits mingle with smoke and lavender accents on the palate. This finishes long, as this great new Pinot Noir will cellar well for another decade. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2018 Domaine Drouhin ‘Laurene’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Laurene’ is a blockbuster effort that will be released in July 2021. The nose is beautifully evolved with black florals and baking spices alongside shades of black tea and blackberry compote. Silky tannins line the line of silky red and dark fruits with tobacco and tilled salty soils on the palate. This is just an infant but is utterly sensational to enjoy right now. Drink 2021-2040- 95

2018 Domaine Drouhin ‘Zephirine’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Zephrine’ is a stunning new wine from this estate. Teaberry and red rose petals angle with orange rind and mulberry on the nose. The palate is silky and elegant with a seamless texture. Layers of ripe red and dark fruits mingle with minerals, smoke and tobacco leaf on the palate. Drink 2021-2038- 94

2018 Domaine Drouhin ‘Edition Limitee’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Edition Limitee’ Pinot Noir is one of the great wines made this vintage. Cran-orange, teaberry and herbal undertones all mark the nose with shades of peat moss all fill the nose. The palate is seamless and elegant with a gorgeous sense of mouthfeel and texture. Layers of pretty red and dark fruits mingle with minerals, smoke, and menthol undertones on the palate. Drink 2021-2040- 95

2018 Domaine Drouhin ‘Cuvee Louise’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Cuvee Louise’ is a dense and polished effort from 2018. This shows more of a hedonistic edge than the other bottlings, with ripe dark fruits that combine with smoke, damp soils and black truffle on the palate. This shows off incredible length and finesse as this beautiful wine will cellar well for another twenty years. Drink 2021-2039- 94

Quaintrelle

I love the wealth of new wineries in Oregon. An Oregon outpost you may have never heard of, Quaintrelle has its roots from Brick House Vineyards and the talented Doug Tunnell. His niece, Savannah Mills, is making some seriously good wines on her own.  Formerly stuck in her corporate job, she had a yearning to join Oregon’s wine country. After another harvest at Brick House, followed quickly by a harvest in New Zealand her uncle offered me the chance to buy a small amount of fruit from his farm to begin making her wine. 

The wine started with the 2014 vintage, utilizing Dijon 115 and Pommard clones grown according to Demeter BioDynamic standards at Brick House Vineyards. The wine is lighter in style than Brick House wines, showing seriojsluy good finesse and tension. Her wine is a downright steal at 38 bucks. Learn more at https://www.quaintrellewines.com and here is my review of the new Quaintrelle Pinot Noir from the 2018 vintage.

2018 Quaintrelle Pinot Noir- Pretty and highly vibrant with a great veil of tension, the 2018 Quaintrelle Pinot Noir shows off pretty red rose water with orange rind and red cherry candy on the nose. The palate is fresh, vibrant and silky with soft tannins that line the great core of guava, teaberry and red raspberry. Earthy undertones add to the enjoyment here. Drink 2021-2031- 92

Raptor Ridge

As we continue our journey through Oregon Wine Month we share the story of one of the historic Oregon wineries. Raptor Ridge was founded in 1995 and almost immediately gained national acclaim for their Pinot Noirs. Founder and former winemaker, Scott Shull, first started making terroir driven wines in1995. Originally from Missouri, Scott is a self-taught winemaker, having learned by doing, reading, and attending extension service courses on viticulture and enology offered by U.C. Davis and Oregon State University.

The current winemaker, Shannon Gustafson, is originally from Paso Robles, and formerly served as winemaker for Hawks View winery in Oregon prior to coming to Raptor Ridge. I loved her new wines from the 2019 and 2018 vintages. The 2018 Raptor Ridge ‘Gran Moraine’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) is fresh, vibrant and beautifully texture.  Just as good is the 2018 Raptor Ridge ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which shows insanely good range and great terroir from this warm vintage. Learn more about this outstanding Oregon winery at http://www.raptorridgewinery.com Here are the beautiful new releases by Raptor Ridge. 

2019 Raptor Ridge ‘Vineyard Select’ Pinot Gris- Fresh and vibrant with serious tension, the 2019 Raptor Ridge Pinot Gris shows gooseberry and white peach flavors alongside kumquat rind and stony undertones on the palate. This is great stuff for a hot summer day. Drink 2021-2024- 90

2018 Raptor Ridge ‘Gran Moraine’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Gran Moraine’ Chardonnay is a beuaitufllyp textured effort sourced from this esteemed site in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. The palate is ripe and layered, showing good acidity and flavor density. Banana and starfruit flavors brilliantly combine with wild mushroom, Challah bread and Pink Lady apple on the palate. Juicy and rich, yet showing a really good sense of range, this beautiful 2018 Chardonnay will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2019 Raptor Ridge ‘Barrel Select’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Barrel Select’ Pinot Noir comes off a touch leaner than usual with pretty red fruits and rose water tones on the palate, with lighter orange rind undertones. Drink 2021-2025- 89

2018 Raptor Ridge ‘Tuscowallame Estate Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Tuscowallame Estate Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a whole-cluster fermented effort that is dense and flavorful at the three year mark. From tannins hold in place a great core of red and dark fruits with tobacco leaf and tilled soil undertones. Drink 2021-2033- 92

2018 Raptor Ridge ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from this famed location in the Eola-Amity Hills, the 2018 ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir has seriously good range on the nose from cardamom and red currants to peat moss and ripe Bing cherry tones. The palate has firm tannins and bright acidity with dark cherry and orange rind flavors that collide with minerals, smoke and forest floor. Complex and delicious now this has some great aging potential. Drink 2021-2033- 93

Calera

I love producers that share an illustrious history. Calera dates back to the 1970s when their  founder Josh Jensen was exploring Europe, and decided to work a harvest at famed winery Romanée-Conti. Josh was inspired to make great Pinot Noir in California and 1974, he purchased land located on steep slopes of Mount Harlan, a 3,278-foot peak in the Gavilan Mountains that divide Monterey and San Benito counties. Josh founded Calera in 1975 and p[anted his three estate vineyards: Jensen, Reed and Selleck. Josh achieved incredible critical acclaim for his Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines. 

A few years back Calera was sold to the Duckhorn wine group as Josh described Calera as his “life work.” The winery itself is located in Hollister, and boasts sweeping views of the Diablo Mountain Range. Head winemaker Mike Waller previously worked as assistant winemaker at storied property Chalone, before coming to Calera. Mike has served as head winemaker for the past decade. While they may have new winery ownership, the new releases by Mike Waller were gorgeous across the board. I adore the 2018 Calera ‘Central Coast’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) is a downright killer bargain at $30.00. This wine exudes class with balance, weight and salty terroir. I love the 2018 Calera ‘Reed Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which offers good weight but shows almost a warm vintage Oregon take. Learn more about these outstanding new wines at https://www.calerawine.com Here are the great new releases by Calera. 

20018 Calera ‘Central Coast’ Chardonnay- The 2018 Calera ‘Central Coast’ Chardonnay saw only 5% new French oak before bottling, as this is mostly sourced from the Santa Maria Valley and San Benito County. The wine is wonderfully balanced with bright pear and starfruit flavors alongside baking spice dusted Challah bread. Delicious now, this has another ten years to go. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2018 Calera ‘Central Coast’ Pinot Noir- The exceedingly good ‘Central Coast’ Pinot Noir by Calera saw only 10% new French oak before bottling. On the nose teaberry tones combine with red currants, pipe tobacco and salty tilled soils. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a seriously good texture. Layers of red plum and menthol combine with a great core of pomegranate seed and blood orange zest. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2018 Calera ‘de Villiers Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- I adore the new 2018 de Villiers Vineyard’ Pinot Noir which is entirely planted to Calera clone Pinot Noir. Right away the nose takes on a good combination of red and dark fruits that mingle with saline drench citrus fruits on the nose.  dense kirsch tones that combine with sandalwood, orange zest and exotic spices that mingle in the glass. The palate shows good depth, structure and flavor density. Rich boysenberry and orange rind tones mingle with wet rock, tilled soils and suggestions of black truffle on the palate. This finishes exceedingly long. Refined and generous, the 2018 ‘de Villiers Vineyard’ Pinot Noir will cellar well for another fifteen years. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2018 Calera ‘Reed Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from a high elevation site atop Mt. Harlan, the 2018 ‘Reed Vineyard’ reveals a dusting of salty and volcanic earth alongside ripe red cherry and guava tones on the nose. The feeling of weight is seriously good as a great core offered fruits collide with minerals, smoke and pine needles on the palate. This has a very warm vintage Oregon feel — yet is entirely its own. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2018 Calera ‘Jensen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Named after California Pinot Noir icon, Josh Jensen, thisbeuatifulwine shows off peat moss and rich raspberry coulis with red currants and smoky undertones on the nose. Once on the palate the silky texture entices. Seaweed and blood orange zest mingle with rich pomegranate seed and red cherry cordial on the palate. The sense of texture really makes this sing. Great to savor now at the three year mark, the 2018 ‘Jensen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir will provide drinking enjoyment for at least a decade to come. Drink 2021-2035- 94

Signorello Estate

One of the outstanding estates in the Napa Valley, Signorello has a storied past and is making some exceedingly good wines right now. Back in 1977 Ray Signorello purchased 100 acres of land prime for Cabernet Sauvignon with his son, Ray Jr. Their first vintage was 1985 and they have overcome tragedy with the winery being burned down during the California wildfires of 2017. The fires consumed winery production facilities, offices, hospitality space and even Ray Jr’s home. There is now a proposed site on the western hillside of the Silverado Trail which is very exciting.

Since that tragic event the wines have been made at a custom facility and I was massively impressed with what I tasted from the 2018 vintage. Winemaker Priyanka French assumed the role in spring 2019 and has done amazing work with her team. The 2018 Signorello ‘Edge’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 93) is plush and juicy — truly a delight to drink right now. Even better is the sinfully good 2018 Signorello ‘Padrone’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) which has some massive cellaring potential. Learn more about this famed winery at signorelloestate.com and here are my reviews of the beautiful new Signorello wines. 

2019 Signorello ‘Hope’s Cuvee’ Chardonnay- The 2019 ‘Hope’s Cuvee’ takes on a gorgeous plush mouthfeel. Layers of brioche and buttercream combine with banana and minerals on the palate. This is seriously good stuff that will cellar well over the next eight years. Drink 2021-2028- 93

2018 Signorello ‘Edge’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘Edge’ Cabernet Sauvignon has 9% Petite Sirah blended in. The palate is wonderfully complex with sagebrush, menthol, black currants and tar, loaded with minerals and captivating acidity. This finishes very long. Gorgeous now, this has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2035- 93

2018 Signorello ‘Padrone’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘Padrone’ is a sinfully good effort by Signorello. Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (89%), this has small parts Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Merlot blended in. Massively inky once in the glass, and needing an hour in the decanter to be fully aroused, this takes on layers of tar, anise, espresso bean and Black Forest cake on the palate, with great acidity. Deep and concentrated, yet showing some good restraint, this is a sinfully good effort that will provide drinking enjoyment for many decades. Drink 2021-2041- 95

Walla Walla Vintners

It was 2008 and I was back in Walla Walla tasting at Walla Walla Vintners, one of the older places to taste in the valley. At the time there were few guests in this rustic, unpretentious setting. I was really impressed with the overall quality of the red wines, wines that had good structure but also good depth, concentration and varietal typicity. Walla Walla Vintners was the town’s eighth bonded winery. Founded in 1995, the, Scott and Nici Haladay were first introduced to Walla Walla Vintners in 2017. Already familiar with the historic winery, they were excited to get the chance to be the new stewards of the iconic red barn and Cut Bank Estate vineyard as Scott comes from a technology background and Nici is a licensed nurse. 

At the helm is winemaker Derrek Vipond, is a native Washingtonian who started his career at Walla Walla Community College in the Enology and Viticulture program. After completing his education with a degree from Oregon State University in Fermentation Science, Derrek worked several harvests across the globe before eventually moving back to Walla Walla and joining Walla Walla Vintners in January 2019. Their estate vineyard, the ‘Cut Bank Vineyard’ is set in the shadow of the Blue Ridge Mountains. at 1467 ft. along the Mill Creek Valley.

Derek’s new wines were beautiful across the board, including their entry level red wine, the 202- Walla Walla Vintners Rose (OB, 90) which is fresh and vibrant with a soft texture. Even better is they 2018 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 92) as this is a beautiful wine to enjoy now with plenty of richness and will cellar well for at least another decade. Learn more about these great new releases at https://wallawallavintners.com Here are my reviews of the new wines by Walla Walla Vintners. 

2020 Walla Walla Vintners Rose- This shows off nectarine with ripe pear and melon tones. On the nose. The freshness, finesse and soft mouthfeel does its thing marvelously as melon, kiwi and wet stone flavors nicely combine with minerals. The length and texture is great. Drink 2021-2025- 90 

2020 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Columbia Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc- The soft texture is inviting here as white peach, gooseberry and pink grapefruit tones all fill the palate. Fresh and nicely fleshy, enjoy this wine over the next several years. Drink 2021-2025- 90

2020 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Sagemoor Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc- Aged on the lees for six months and receiving some battonage, the 2020 ‘Sagemoor Vineyard’ Sauvignon yields ripe melon and citrus fruits with toasted brioche and baking spice notes on the palate. Drink 2021-2027- 91

2018 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Merlot-Aged for 22 months in 65% new French oak the 2018 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Merlot shows ripe chocolate covered red cherry and cigar box accents aromatically with a good core of dark fruits. The palate is sturdy with good fruit weight and acidity, unveiling ripe blackberry and black plum flavors alongside the air of freshness. This has some good cellaring potential considering the combination of weight and finesse. Drink 2021-2033- 92

2018 Walla Walla ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 Walla Walla ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a beautiful new wine from this house. Dense dark fruits parade with tobacco leaf, mocha and tar on the palate. Fresh and vibrant with a good feeling of weight, this beautiful wine will be best enjoyed over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2021-2033- 92

Betz Family Winery

A few weeks back I had a wonderful stop to Betz Family Winery, hosted by the talented Louis Skinner. Like many winemakers, Louis had a previous career prior to catching the wine bug which in his case was highly contagious. Louis literally read everything he could on wine and got a job working at a wine shop which allowed him to taste wines of the world constantly. He became particularly fond of the wines of Burgundy and then trained under some famed Washington wine icons, Chris Upchurch and Bob Betz, MW, prior to taking over for Betz as head winemaker a few years back. I had the chance to barrel taste with him the 2019 future releases that were stunning across the board.

Betz is now under new ownership and is very focused on producing some of the great wines in the state. I have been massively impressed with the wines produced from the stony terroir of the Walla Walla Rocks AVA, formerly called the ‘Old Stones Vineyard.’ The location is right near the River Rock Vineyard, quite near the highway running through Milton-Freewater. This vineyard was formerly overgrown and not well-kept but is absolutely thriving at this time.

The wine from this vineyard, the 2019 Betz Family Winery ‘Domaine de Pierres’ Syrah (OB, 95) shows gobs of finesse and wonderful stony tones. This is one for any lover of The Rocks District. I was blown away with the 2019 Betz ‘Pere de Familie’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) which is an utterly sensational effort from this somewhat challenging vintage for Bordeaux varietals. Dense and chewy with a soft mouthfeel, this will age beautifully for decades to come. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://www.betzfamilywinery.com Here are the great new wines by Betz Family Winery.

2019 Betz Family Winery ‘Besoleil’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Besoleil’ is a blend of 60% Grenache with 21% Grenache and 16% Counoise with just a splash of Rocks Syrah.The garrigue tones really impress, with shades of orange rind and red cherry candy that all mingle in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant with great acidity and a soft mouthfeel. Layers of very pretty fruit with rose water, blood orange zest and bubblegum flavors with stony undertones and a dusting of white pepper. This is seriously good stuff that has already evolved nicely. Drink 2021-2031- 94

2019 Betz Family Winery ‘Cote Rousse’ Syrah- This is sourced from high-elevation Syrah on the WeatherEye Vineyard. The nose is downright killer with smoky tones alongside bacon fat, blackberry compote and dried herbs with black pepper. The palate has great concentration and mid-palate ripeness with good verve. Creme de violette and anise tones with black olive tapenade combine with salty undertones and a soft texture. The wine finishes long. Outstanding even at the two year mark, this is simply gorgeous stuff that will enjoy a long life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2031- 95

2019 Betz Family Winery ‘La Serenne’ Syrah- sourced from the Boyshey VIneyard, the two lots are neighboring Dick Boushey’s house. Both Joseph Phelps plantings were planted in 1996. Given some whole cluster inclusion this shows off very pretty red fruits alongside smoked meats, green olives and a dusting of white pepper aromatically. The palate is plush showing a silky treater and great sense of mouthfeel. Ripe red cherry and pomegranate seed combine with baking spices and cured salami undertones on the palate. Fresh and vibrant in its youth, this has at least another decade in front of it. Drink 2021-2031- 94

2019 Betz Family Winery ‘Domaine de Pierres’ Syrah- This vineyard has seen serious attention since it was first bought by Betz. Planted to a large amount of Syrah clones, this shows cigar ash, green olive, white pepper, charcuterie and exotic spices. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a silky sense of mouthfeel. Layers of Yakima cherry and red currants mingle with smoked meats, black olive and a dusting of white pepper. This is very refined stuff that is complex yet very light on its feet. The flavor and aromatic range here is really great, as is the long finish. Drink 2021-2028- 95

2019 Betz Family Winery ‘Cote Patriarch’ Syrah- Sourced from the famed Red Willow Vineyard in the Yakima Valley, part of this wine was first planted back in1986. Deep boysenberry cordial and coffee ground tones mingle with black cherry and salted meats on the nose. The palate has great freshness and finesse with a brilliant saline streak. The flavor concentration is outstanding. Decadent in its youth, this will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031- 94

2019 Betz Family Winery ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- This Merlot dominant (51%) wine with smaller parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot shows light white pepper tones alongside a great core of dark fruits, tobacco leaf and chocolate cake on this outstanding nose. The palate is fresh and vibrant with great acidity. Layers of ripe black raspberry and dark kirsch cordial tones are woven together with milk chocolate and hints of green bell pepper on the palate. This shows a nice veil of salinity, adding to the enjoyment. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2019 Betz Family Winery ‘Pere de Familie’ Red WIne- The nose here is quite decadent with espresso bean, blueberry compote and black cherry cordial tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant, showing good mid-palate flavor density. Rich dark fruits collide with minerals, smoke, violets and shades of creme de cassis. Rich and layered, and already quite refined at the two year mark, this beautiful wine has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2038- 95

2019 Betz Family Winery ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Betz has now been sourcing from this wine for many years, as they work with a host of vineyard blocks here. The 2019 edition shows mocha, creosote, blackberry compote and creme de cassis notes all mark the nose. The mouthfeel and freshness of the wine is seriously good, as is the mid-palate sense of weight. Espresso grounds and blueberry cordial mingle with exotic spices, black cherry and shades of scorched earth all artfully combine on the palate. This has plenty of accessibility now and will continue to provide drinking enjoyment for another fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2021-2038- 95

Sodhani Vineyards

Nestled just north of St. Helena, Sodhani Vineyards is a small, family run operation that is set on a 11 acre property which was purchased in 2013. Proprietors Arvind and Beverly Sodhani make a small amount of wine, utilizing the talents of Thomas Rivers Brown. Arvind has been interested in wine since his days studying in London. Over time be became a wine collector and even made his own wine from the famed ‘To Kalon Vineyard’ for several years at a custom crush facility before pulling the trigger on some hallowed land in St. Helena.

This hillside property was first planted back in 2000 and has some prestigious neighbors in Vineyard 29 as well as a Colgin owned vineyard next door. The wine that I tasted was their 2016 ‘Reserve’ which is a barrel selection of their finest lots. I adored the 2016 Sodhani ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 96) which is dense and complex, showing insanely good flavor range at even the five year mark. This beautiful wine will cellar well for decades to come. Learn more about this outstanding winery at sodhanivineyards.com and here is my review of the 2016 Sodhani ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon.  

2016 Sodhani ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The utterly fabulous 2016 ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon by Sodhani is a crazy good new wine by Thomas Rivers Brown. Aged for 20 months in new French oak, this takes on dark currant aromatics woven together with tobacco leaf, blackberry compote and mocha tones that all meld in the glass. The palate is plush, seamless and sinfully good. Rich dark fruits collide with creosote, leather, blueberry cordial and Turkish coffee. Highly complex, delicious and gratifying with its combination of verve and viscosity, this sensational new bottling will provide drinking enjoyment for another twenty years or more. But why wait? Drink 2021-2041- 96

DAMA Wines

Mary Tuuri Derby has a long history in the Washington wine industry. Back in 2000 Mary and her husband Devin Derby got their start in Washington wine by creating famed Spring Valley Vineyard. Devin’s unexpected death in 2004 was a huge shock to Mary’s life and left her wondering how best to support herself and her young son. Collaboration and community made the decision for her when nine Walla Walla wineries got together and donated a large quantity of wine, a “very large barrel of love,” says Mary, that ultimately became the beginnings of DAMA.  

Mary has been partnered at DAMA Wineswoth Judith Shulman over the last ten years. These are beautiful wines that I have particularly enjoyed over the past seven or so vintages. Mary’s wines have good tension and restraint — they are never overblown or over-extracted. She has been doing a fabulous job with her Rose wine over the years. The new 2020 DAMA Rose (OB, 90) is a fresh and vibrant effort made from Cabernet Franc grapes. Even better is the sensational 2018 DAMA ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Syrah (OB, 93) which has plenty of aromatic and flavor range with a seamless texture. Learn more about these fantastic wines at https://damawines.com Here are the great new releases by DAMA.

2019 DAMA Wines Rose- Entirely made from Cabernet Franc grapes, the 2020 DAMA Rose shows bright green apple and kiwi with nectarine flavors, alongside a great veil of minerality. Brighter red fruits and orange rind undertones add to the complexity here, as this delicate and intricate style of Rose would be a marvelous combination with fresh Kusshi oysters. Drink 2021-2024- 90

2019 DAMA Wines ‘GSM’ Red WIne- The 2019 ‘GSM’ combines Grenache (46%) with Syrah (39%) and Mourvedre (15%). Red currants and garrigue tones mingle with sage and red cherry cordial on the nose. The palate is fresh and refined with lighter red fruits with citrus rind, bulls blood and creosote tones. Drink 2021-2029- 91

2018 DAMA Wines ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Syrah- Sourced from this famed side in the Walla Walla Rocks District, the 2018 ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Syrah shows black tea with Umami, beef fat, black licorice candy and black olive tapenade flavors. Medium-bodied and full of finesse, this beautifully textured effort will provide drinking enjoyment over the next eight years. Drink 2021-2029- 93

2018 DAMA Wines ‘Lonesome Spring Vineyard’ Syrah- Lighter in the glass than the ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Syrah, this yields smoky tones that mingle with blackberry compote, tar and baking spices aromatically. The palate has gobs of mouth-watering acidity with medium-bodied dark fruit flavors that come together with shades of salted meats and orange rind undertones. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2017 DAMA Wines ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Merlot- Sourced from this great high elevation site in the Walla Walla Valley, the 2017 ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Merlot reveals a soft texture and light dusting of salinity on the palate. Ripe red cherry and black raspberry flavors mingle with minerals, and cocoa powder undertones on the palate. This beautiful wine has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2035- 91

2017 DAMA Wines ‘XL Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc- I have really admired wines from this newer, high elevation vineyard. The 2018 ‘XL Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc shows pretty dark florals with cigar ash, blackberry compote and shades of dark chocolate cake on this beautiful bouquet. The palate is soft and generous with a silky texture. This comes off as highly elegant and seamless with ripe dark fruits that combine with shades of tobacco leaf, tar and coffee grounds. The pillowy texture and good length add to the enjoyment. Great and highly gratifying to enjoy in its youth, this has at least another decade ahead of it. Drink 2021-2032- 92 

2016 DAMA Wines Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from the Walla Walla Valley, the 2016 DAMA Wines Cabernet Sauvignon has layers of sagebrush and leather that are woven together with blackberry cobbler and tar on the nose. The palate has great elegance and restraint, yet yields a downright voluptuous mouthfeel. Layers of anise, cassis, blackberry compote and espresso bean flavors all collide with minerals on the palate. A joy to savor right now, the 2016 DAMA Wines Cabernet Sauvignon will enjoy another decade or more in the cellar. Drink 2021-2032- 92

Clos Solene

I love the inspired stories of Paso Robles. Such is the case with Clos Solene, a tale of romance and following the heart. Clos Solene is an inspired story fueled by the love of two people who founded this outstanding winery. Guillaume Fabre met the love of his life, Solene Fabre and they both eventually settled in Paso Robles. Fast forward to today, the Fabre Family is now a family of five: Clémentine (their oldest daughter), Jean (their middle son), and Juliette (their youngest daughter). Guillaume has named all his favorite wines after his children – Sweet Clémentine, Cuvée Jean and the arrival of Cuvée Juliette in 2019. After purchasing an estate in 2017, the family lives at the farmhouse on the property, as their boutique winery lies the west side of Paso Robles in the heart of the Willow Creek District.

The new wines were simply outstanding across the board. The 2020 Clos Solene ‘La Rose’ Rose (OB, 92) is fresh and beautifully textured with insanely good range. Even better is the sinfully good 2018 Clos Solene ‘Cuvee Jean’ Syrah (OB, 97) which takes you straight to Cornas with the crazy good aromatics and salty tones Learn more about these beautiful new wines at https://www.clossolene.com Here are the outstanding new release wines by Clos Solene.

2020 Clos Solene ‘La Rose’ Rose- A simply delightful blend of 61% Grenache with 20% Mourvedre, 17% Cinsault and a splash of Syrah, this shows off a beautiful pale hue with a silky texture and vibrant sense of verve. Sour red fruits collide with minerals, honeydew melon,  green papaya and wet stone on the palate. This is very Paso meets Provence. Drink 2021-2027- 92

2020 Clos Solene ‘Hommage Blanc’ White Wine- The 2018 ‘Hommage Blanc’ is a compelling blend of nearly all Roussanne (78%) with smaller portions Viognier and Grenache Blanc. Beautifully textured, this is super refined stuff with gooseberry, lemon zest, cantaloupe and stony undertones. The silky texture and wonderful sense of weight and finesse makes this stunning wine have some cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2028- 93

2018 Clos Solene ‘Harmonie’ Red Wine- The Grenache dominant ‘Harmonie’ has smaller parts Mourvedre and Syrah blended in, as this is very Paso meets CDP. Aromatically the Grenache really dominates with its high-toned red rose peatals, orange rind and red fruits, while smoky undertones also add to the enjoyment. The palate is seamless and beautifully textured, with a great combination of pomegranate seed, Yakima cherry cordial, cigar box, and blood orange zest with salty undertones. Focused and highly poised, with good richness, this outstanding wine is utterly sensational to savor now and will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2033- 95

2018 Clos Solene ‘Hommage A Nos Pairs’ Syrah- Inky and brooding once in the glass, with just a touch of Viognier and Grenache blended in, this Syrah wine saw 23 months of French oak before bottling. The palate is seamless with a massive wall of blackberry and huckleberry fruits, with creosote, black licorice and anise, as well as nectarine undertones from the Viognier. With a light dusting of salinity, this terroir-driven and dense Syrah will cellar well for another fifteen years. Drink 2021-2036- 95

2018 Clos Solene ‘Cuvee Jean’ Syrah- The 2018 ‘Cuvee Jean’ is a blend of nearly all Syrah with 3% Viognier co-fermented. Quite simply, this is one of the great California Syrah wines that I have tasted over the past year. The nose quite simply explodes out of the glass, unveiling deep layers of black olive tapenade, black tea and blackberry cordial, with a light dusting of white pepper encrusted smoked brisket. The palate is seamless and plush, with intense black fruits that collide with smoke, bacon fat and tar, as well as herbs de provence and green peppercorns. If smelled blind, I would go straight to Cornas. Rich and layered, yet showing insanely good tension, viscosity and terroir, this highly collectable wine will surely satisfy any serious collector of Paso Robles Syrah. Drink 2021-2038- 97

2018 Clos Solene ‘Fleur de Solene’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Fleur de Solene’ blends 51% Syrah with 27% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Grenache. The resultant wine is dense and highly perfumed from the Grenache with a silky texture. Red currants and roasted figs mingle with shades of dark chocolate and tobacco leaf on the palate. With good restraint and tension this outstanding and novel blend will cellar well over the next decade or more. Drink 2021-2035- 94

Passing Time

Yesterday I had the chance to taste with two legends in their respective fields — NFL legend Damon Huard and Washington Wine legend, Chris Peterson. Damon and Dan Marino had talking about owning a winery together for many years. They finally got the nerve to start a winery in Damon’s backyard and they have been crafting some seriously good Cabernet wines since their first release with the 2012 vintage. One of the great winemaking talents in the state, Chris Peterson was the first graduate of the Walla Walla Community College’s Enology and Viticulture program and working at DeLille for eight years under legendary winemaker Chris Upchurch. 

I remember being excited when Peterson was hired to be head winemaker at Passing Time as this would be a quite different project than his Avennia wines. The new wines from the 2018 vintage were utterly fantastic across the board. I was enamored by his 2018 Passing Time Chardonnay (OB, 94) which is sourced from some of the great vineyards across Washington and has tremendous texture and length without heavy-handed oak treatment. I was enamored by their 2018 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 96) which is silky and elegant with very refined tannins and beautiful viscosity and length. This, like the other single appellation releases, has some outstanding cellaring potential.  Learn more about this fantastic  boutique winery at http://www.passingtime.com Here is my review of the new Passing Time wines.

2019 Passing Time Chardonnay- Sourced rom 1984 ‘Celilo Vineyard' plantings as well as Connor Lee, Boushey and Kenny Hill vineyards, this was aged for fifteen months in 50% new French oak prior to bottling. Right out of the gate this shows off toasty brioche with pear and marzipan tones all fill the nose. The palate is plush with a soft texture and wonderful brightness. Ripe Japanese pear and lemon zest dusted sourdough bread and a wonderfully long finish. This is incredibly well-balanced stuff that will cellar well over the next decade, picking up nutty and earthy tones as it ages. Drink 2021-2031- 94

2018 Passing Time ‘Columbia Valley’ Red Wine- The2018 ‘Red Wine’ is sourced from a host of great vineyards including Champoux and Wallula, and blends 55% Cabernet Sauvignon with 25% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot that was aged for twenty months in 50% new French oak before bottling. The nose showcases a great core of black and blue fruits with coffee grounds and shades of green bell pepper aromatics that meld in the glass. The palate is silky and harmonious with a great core of blackberry liquor, black cherry compote, tar and anise tones alongside espresso bean undertones. This is drinking beautifully right now. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2018 Passing Time ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A blend of 97% Cabernet Sauvignon (1984 plantings from the Klipsun Vineyard and Red Mountain Vineyard fruit) with just a touch of Bacchus Vineyard Cabernet. Franc, this saw 75% new French oak before bottling. The nose is downright hedonistic yielding rich cassis and creme de violette tones alongs with scorched earth and mocha. The palate is plush with a scintillating texture and gorgeous sense of place. Rich dark and red fruits collide with minerals, smoke and tar undertones. The bright acidity and wonderful sensation of viscosity makes this absolutely sing. Be sure to give this a two hour decant if enjoying win its youth. Drink 2022-2040- 96

2018 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A blockbuster wine, the 2018 ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a downright stunning wine by Passing Time. This is the first time that they have added just a touch of Champoux Vineyard Merlot. Nearly all Cabernet Sauvignon (86%) with smaller parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this shows off huckleberry compote and loganberry liquor on the nose with sagebrush and milk chocolate all combine on the nose. The palate shows great fruit weight and flavor density with a great wall of dark fruits that mingle with espresso bean and sagebrush tones. This is a dense but seamless expression of Cabernet Sauvignon. Still quite restrained and having massive potential, this outstanding wine really needs another year of bottle age before consuming. Drink 2022-2042- 96

2018 Passing Time ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from the Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge Vineyards, this is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that saw 60% new French oak for 21 months before bottling. The nose is downright hedonistic with blueberry compote and mocha tones that combine with shades of tar and dried herbs. Refined tannins line a massive core of black and blue fruits with Turkish coffee and violets on the palate. Muscular and dense, with a massive aging potential, this will live on for decades to come. Drink 2022-2042- 95

2019 Passing Time ‘Block 1311’ Cabernet Sauvignon Barrel Sample (95-97

Piolet Vintners

A Washington winery with a very high ceiling, Piolet is the brainchild of Andy Ferguson, who is a winemaker at Chateau Ste. Michelle. Andy crafts some very limited production bottlings and I have been really impressed with what I have tried so far. His latest set of release are even more outstanding than the last set of wines I tried roughly two years ago. These are wines that are geared towards texture and mouthfeel sourcing from some outstanding vineyard sites including La Reyna Blanca and Stoneridge. It is worth noting that Andy also worked on the ‘Single Barrel Select’ TBA style wine by Chateau Ste. Michelle which is one of the best wines that I have tasted over the past year.

I love the new 2019 Piolet Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 92) which has amazing texture and depth from the oak barrel regimen, yet shows wonderful verve. Look to the truly sensational 2018 Piolet Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 94) which completely overdelivers at under 50 bucks. This finesse driven wine shows good depth and concentration from this outstanding vintage. Learn more at pioletvintners.com Here are the outstanding new wines by Piolet.

2019 Piolet Sauvignon Blanc- This is sourced from a small block in the La Reyna Blanca vineyard which is a high elevation, windswept site that is southern facing. The wine was aged in natural oak and stainless steel prior to bottling. The wine is big and unctuous with grapefruit, lychee and passion fruit with lighter green herbs.. Drink 2021-2027- 92

2020 Piolet Sauvignon Blanc (barrel sample)- 89-91

2018 Piolet Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 Piolet Cabernet Sauvignon (100%) is sourced from the Quintessence and Shaw Vineyards on Red Mountain as well as the Discovery Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. The nose is very pretty with black rose and blackberry compote as well as tar, black licorice and cigar box tones meld in the glass. The palate is silky and elegant with good viscosity and finesse. Layers of black fruits collide with chocolate covered espresso bean, sagebrush and anise tones. The length and generous texture is outstanding. Drink 2021-2038- 94

2018 Piolet Syrah- The 2018 Piolet Syrah is sourced from the famed ‘Stoneridge Vineyard’ as this is entirely Joseph Phelps clone Syrah from this south-facing site in the Royal Slope AVA. The wine his big and bold with good acidity and shows a beautiful texture. Roasted figs and red cherry puree collide with creosote, smoked pork shoulder and soy sauce undertones all impress. Showing good freshness and finesse, this will provide drinking enjoyment over the next decade. Drink 2021-2029- 93

Saint K Wines

I love new winery projects that impress. Such is the case with Saint K Wines, Founder Chris Kiranbay grew up in the Middle East and has a longstanding history in the wine industry. A trip to Napa inspired a move across country to California. Chris worked a harvest there and visited Paso Robles back in 2010. Working in fine dining, as well as a wine brokerage, he began working for Herman Story Wines in 2013, and subsequently began making some of his own wines.

I love the new 2020 Saint K ‘Around the Way’ Rose (OB, 91) which has gorgeous freshness and finesse with seriously good range. Even better is the sinfully good 2019 Saint K ‘Everything Is Under Control’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 93) which like the name states, shows great freshness despite its full-throttle demeanor. Learn more about this fantastic boutique winery at https://www.burkewine.comHere are my reviews of the great new Saint K wines. 

2020 Saint K ‘Around the Way’ Rose- Made from Mourvedre grapes, this shows off a beautiful texture with great lift and vibrant acidity. Soft red fruits collide with rose water, melon and orange rind tones on the palate. This is seriously good, vibrant Rose. Drink 2021-2026- 91

2020 Saint K ‘Flower Bomb’ Malvasia Blanc- Extremely floral, just as the wine suggests, the honeysuckle and ripe peach tones aromatically impress. The palate is beautifully seamless with a silky texture and gobs of melon and citrus fruits that connect w int stony minerals. This will get more earthy with some age as the weight and acidity suggest some cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2019 Saint K ‘Like The Snows of Yesteryear’ Sangiovese- Truly a unique and outstanding Sangiovese wine that is sourced from the White Hawk Vineyard, this shows off roasted fig flavors alongside minerals, tar and shades of menthol on the palate. Firm tannins hold everything in place brilliantly. The bright acidity and citrus rind accents add to the enjoyment here, as this compelling new wine will cellar well over the next eight years. Drink 2021-2029- 93

2019 Saint K ‘Everything Is Under Control’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from the Rangeland Vineyard, this Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in 33% New French oak for 18 months before bottling. It comes up inky in the glass, delivering rich cassis, anise and blackberry compote flavors with tar undertones. Full-throttle and delicious to savor now, with good freshness, this has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2032- 93

Duckhorn

An outstanding Napa house that made their name hedging their bet on top notch Merlot, Dan and Margaret Duckhorn founded Duckhorn Vineyards back in 1976.  What began with a mere 800 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon and 800 cases of Merlot in 1978, Duckhorn now has many arms of their dynasty including a winery in Washington (Canvasback) as well as Goldeneye out of the Anderson Valley, who is steadily producing a gorgeous lineup of Pinot Noirs. Duckhorn relies on seven estate vineyards for their wines and makes some of the most consistent Merlot in Napa Valley.

In early 2014, Renée Ary became the fourth head winemaker for Duckhorn Vineyards winemakers that began with Tom Rinaldi in 1978. Her promotion came after 11 years after serving as both assistant and associate winemaker. Born and raised on the East Coast, Renée moved to California to attend Saint Mary’s College, where she earned a degree in chemistry and art. Fascinated by the intersection between science and an art, winemaking quickly became Renée’s passion, career and way of life. Her first job was working in the lab at Robert Mondavi Winery in Oakville, as she trained under famed winemakers Genevieve Janssens, Steve Leveque and Richard Sowalsky. During that time she took classes in winemaking and viticulture at UC Davis and Napa Valley College.

In August of 2003, Renée joined the Duckhorn Vineyards team under then winemaker, Mark Beringer. Throughout her first decade at Duckhorn Vineyards, Renée learned every detail of production moving from lab manager to enologist to assistant winemaker to associate winemaker in charge of Duckhorn’s Sauvignon Blanc and Monitor Ledge Vineyard wines. Renee has crafted some beautiful wines over the past few years. She has a gorgeous new release white wine, her 2020 Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 90), which has great poise and a touch of buttery tones from the Semillon.  has great balance and a soft, beautiful texture. I was blown away with the 2018 Duckhorn ‘Three Palms Vineyard’ Merlot (OB, 94) which is a show-stopping Merlot that is seamless and beautifully textured. This is one for any serious collector of new world Merlot. Learn more about this famed winery at duckhorn.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Duckhorn. 

2020 Duckhorn ‘Napa Valley’ Sauvingon Blanc- The 2020 ‘Napa Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc is a great blend of 84% Sauvignon Blanc with the remainder Semillon that was aged in mostly stainless steel (8% new French oak) before bottling. The palate is soft and fresh with kiwi, gooseberry and green apple tones alongside shades of toasty brioche. Drink 2021-2025- 90

2019 Duckhorn ‘Napa Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc-The 2019 Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc is all about a great combination of weight and freshness with bright acidity and really good poise. Layers of melon fruits and minerals combine with kiwi and starfruit tones on the palate. Really good now, this would be awesome on a sunny day. Drink 2021-2025- 91

2018 Duckhorn ‘Napa Valley’ Merlot- The 2018 ‘Napa Valley’ Merlot has 16% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in with just a splash of Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Aged for fifteen months in 100% new French oak, this shows off black tea, exotic spices and black currants on the nose with milk chocolate undertones. The palate is silky, elegant and nicely concentrated as rich dark fruits parade with coffee grounds, Earl Grey tea and chocolate cake tones. Gorgeous now, this will continue to evolve well for the next decade or more. Drink 2021-2033- 92

2018 Duckhorn ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 Duckhorn Cabernet Sauvignon has a large portion of Merlot blended in (16%), as this saw 50% new French oak for sixteen months prior to bottling. Sagebrush and thyme fill the nose with cassis, anise and shades of espresso bean. The palate is ripe and generous with silky tannins. Layers of blackberry compote, tar and black licorice all meld together with a good sense of acidity. Drink 2021-2033- 91

2016 Duckhorn Vineyards ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 ‘Howell Mountain;’ Cabernet Sauvignon is another fantastic release from this storied Napa house. On the nose this takes on dark chocolate shavings that combine with anise, damp earth and shades of blackberry pie that all mingle together. The palate has good weight and structure, showing off its boysenberry puree, Turkish coffee, and sweet pipe tobacco flavors. The combination of minerality and viscosity really impresses, as this beautiful wine will cellar well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2021-2035- 93

2018 Duckhorn ‘Three Palms Vineyard’ Merlot- Starting all the way back in 1978 Dan and Margaret Duckhorn decided to craft a single vineyard Merlot sourced from their ‘Three Palms Vineyard’ in Calistoga. A blend of nearly all Merlot with 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and small portions Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec, this shows off rich milk chocolate aromatics, woven together with blueberry pie, and cassis that all take shape in the glass. The palate is silky smooth and viscous with great poise and tension. Black currants dance with black licorice, mocha, tar and tilled soils on the palate. This is exceedingly good Merlot even at the three year mark, as this will provide drinking enjoyment for another fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2021-2038- 94

2017 Duckhorn ‘The Discussion’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘The Discussion’ is a gorgeous blend of near equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with a touch of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc added. This saw 26 months triage in mostly new French oak before bottling. The wine shows good power and density with rich dark fruits that combine with coffee grounds, tar and milk chocolate. Downright delicious to savor now, this has another fifteen years or more to go. Drink 2021-2038- 93

House of Bones

Who doesn’t love a great Washington Chardonnay? Some might see the wine as a bit of a cross between Napa and Oregon with wines that show good fleshy character seemingly regardless of vintage but also show slightly more cooler tones than Napa. House of Bones is a project winery by co-winemakers Sean Boyd and Kevin Masterman who have a passion for Burgundy. Kevin has had incredible opportunities to learn white wine making from top new world producers such as David Ramey, and Walla Walla’s own Griffin Frey and John Abbott. They source from a hallowed site in the Columbia Gorge, which creates wines that have seriously good poise with lovely citrus tones. For many years I have adored wines coming from the famed ‘Celilo Vineyard’ in the Columbia Gorge. I’ve had Woodward Canyon bottlings back to the early 1990s and have been really impressed with how wines from this site cellar.

The 2019 House of Bones ‘Celilo Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) is fresh and highly energetic with gorgeous range. Even better is the sinfully good 2018 House of Bones ‘Celilo Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is deeply concentrated with a wonderful sense of texture and minerality. Learn more about this fantastic project winery at https://www.properwines.com/House-of-Bones

Here are my notes on the the brilliant releases by House of Bones.

2019 House of Bones ‘Celilo Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from this outstanding site, this weighs in at only 13.4% alcohol. The wine is incredibly textured with good length and weight. Layers of lemon oil, wild mushroom and papaya mingle with stony minerals on the palate. Outstanding now, this will provide drinking enjoyment over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2018 House of Bones ‘Celilo Vineyard’ Chardonnay-  Even more deep and concentrated than the 2019 edition, the 2018 House of Bones shows a wonderful sense of body and texture. Lemon oil and cardamom dusted brioche mingle with ripe pineapple and honeydew melon on the palate. The combination of verve, viscosity and minerality is gorgeous here. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2017 House of Bones ‘Celilo Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Silky and elegant, this 2017 Chardonnay is marvelously evolved now at the four year mark. Marzipan, lemon zest and Challah bread tones mingle with starfruit and kiwi on the palate. Deep and rich, with a great acid backbone, this has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2029- 93

Lingua Franca Pinot Noir Vertical Tasting

Talk about starting a winery with a boom. The first time I tried Lingua Franca wines I remember that it was a warm day, plus 90 degrees, in the Willamette Valley. Probably the worst thing to reach for was Pinot Noir but I cracked one of their ‘Avni’ Pinot Noirs and was simply amazed! The last time I saw Lingua Franca founder Larry Stone MS was at the last Wine Spectator event in New York. That was October 2019. The last time I saw Lingua franca winemaker Thomas Savre was at my favorite Champagne bar in Portland. That was December 2019. It has been a while. 

Each bottle was shipped from the winery, ensuring the best provenance. Thomas and I had talked about doing a vertical tasting together, but due to Covid, this was the best option. Over the course of several hours I sat with these wines and was truly blown away with the youthfulness and overall quality and terroir of each warm vintage wine. These were all sourced from the esteemed ‘Lingua Franca Estate’ Vineyard, which is intriguingly set on Jory and Nekkia soils, which in many cases leads to a stony, volcanic profile in the red and white wines. 

2016 was a very warm vintage, as was 2018, while 2017 was slightly cooler but still warm to Oregon standards. 2018 saw the most severe heat spikes despite having a cooler fall which led to wines achieving beautiful freshness and finesse. The 2018 Lingua Franca ‘Lingua Franca Estate’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) just ever so slightly eclipsed the other two bottlings in terms of depth, concentration, range and overall finesse. The plush and rather luxurious texture really added to the enjoyment. For those who have never tired the beautiful wines of Lingua Franca, I highly recommend that you do check out these highly collectible Oregon Pinot Noirs. And for more info go to lingua franca.com. Here are my notes from my incredible Lingua Franca Pinot Noir vertical tasting. 

2016 Lingua Franca ‘Lingua Franca Estate’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 Lingua Franca ‘Lingua Franca Estate’ Pinot Noir is a silky, rich effort from this warm vintage that is already shining very brightly. This was the first vintage of our Estate Pinot Noir sourced from a barrel selection of Pinot Noir from their 66-acre ‘LS Vineyard.’ Aged for twelve months in only 25% new French oak before bottling, this shows off gorgeous red rose petals and exotic spices alongside peat moss and smoldering rocks with a good core of pretty red fruits on the nose. The palate is seamless, round and generous with a great sense of mouthfeel an tension. Rich red currants and Yakima cherry tones mingle with minerals, wet stone and cran-orange flavors. While great now, this has a really long life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2036- 94

2017 Lingua Franca ‘Lingua Franca Estate’ Pinot Noir- Outstanding now at the four year mark, the 2017 Lingua Franca ‘Lingua Franca Estate’ Pinot Noir is sourced from this unique site set on Jory and Nekia soils. Citrus rind, guava and shades of damp earth all fill the nose. The palate its fresh and vibrant with a light dusting of salinity that runs through the core of bright red fruits, alongside kumquat, tilled earth and shades of wild mushroom. The juicy core of red fruits seems to be shining the most brightly and while primary, the secondary notes are really evolving nicely here. While a touch less dense than the ’16, the finesse suggests a really long life. I would anticipate another fifteen years with this beautiful, elegant Pinot Noir. Drink 2021-2036- 94

2018 Lingua Franca ‘Lingua Franca Estate’ Pinot Noir- I adore the depth and concentration of the 2018 Lingua Franca ‘Lingua Franca Estate’ Pinot Noir. Red and dark florals dawn the nose, with volcanic earth, peat moss and a great wall of red and dark fruits all greet you aromatically. The palate is deep, luxurious and beautifully textured. Rich huckleberry and black raspberry flavors mingle with forest floor, stony minerals and blood orange zest, with hints of charcuterie. The salty and savory edge here is really good. Gorgeous even at the three year mark, this will be a twenty year wine. Drink 2021-2028- 95

Sullivan Rutherford Estate

I’ll admit that it is quite a challenge to keep up with every Napa outpost. A winery that has some serious longevity, Sullivan began back in 1972. Jim Sullivan’s interest in wine was ignited in the 1950s with a simple grape arbor given to him and his new bride as a wedding gift and he began to make wine at home before moving his family to Rutherford and establishing Sullivan in 1972. The winery began new ownership in 2018 which involved investing in vineyard programs and plans are underway to build a state-of-the-art winery and hospitality facilities which was all led by entrepreneur Juan Pablo Torres-Padilla. 

The top ‘Founder’s Reserve’ wines from this estate were really impressive, as I tasted vintages 2013-2017. This line was formerly known as ‘James O’ Neil’ and I was quite honestly blown away with the latest 2017 release (OB, 95) which is dense and massive, with great poise. These are wines that are cellaring beautifully and the 2014 Sullivan ‘James O’ Neil Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) is still very youthful and shows an inclusion of blue fruits, adding to the enjoyment. I highly recommend these wines for any Napa lover if you have never had the chance to check them out. Learn more at https://sullivanwine.com Here are my tasting notes from Sullivan 2013-2017 Cabernet Sauvignon wines. 

2017 J.O. Sullivan ‘Founder’s Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from older vines on the property, this reveals graphite with anise and creme de cassis, with suggestions of Turkish coffee aromas that all meld in unison. The palate is deep, concentrated and nicely poised. Intense cassis, anise and black currant jelly flavors collide with loamy soils and chocolate covered espresso bean tones on the palate. This is seriously good stuff that will only get better with some time in the bottle. If enjoying in its youth, be sure to give this beauty a one to two hour decant. Drink 2022-2040- 95

2016 Sullivan ‘James O’ Neil’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from this warm vintage, the 2016 ‘James O’ Neil’ reveals exotic spices woven together with loamy soils, black currants and shades of chocolate cake on the nose. The palate is beautifully textured with great viscosity and tension. Rich dark fruits parade with mocha, tar and anise tones on the palate. With great length, this outstanding wine is just starting to hit its stride. Drink 2021-2038- 95

2015 Sullivan ‘James O’ Neil’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2015 ‘James O’ Neil’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a fantastic effort from this very warm vintage. Once on the nose this takes on mocha, tar and black currant tones that mingle with the damp soil accents. The palate is fresh and vibrant with great acidity. While this might be a touch leaner in terms of mid-palate development, there is plenty of range here, from ripe dark fruits to coffee grounds, scorched earth and menthol undertones. Gorgeous now, this will continue to provide drinking enjoyment for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2033-  93

2014 Sullivan ‘James O’ Neil’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2014 ‘James O’ Neil’ shows off tar and sandalwood tones with a great wall of dark fruits and chocolate that all come together aromatically. The palate is soft and refined with firm tannins. Rich cassis and blueberry compote mingle with leather, damp tilled soil and espresso bean flavors. The wine comes off as quite elegant with good length. The inclusion of blue fruits gives this plenty of exotic appeal, as the 2014 ‘James O’ Neil’ is really hitting its sweet spot. Drink 2021-2035- 95

2013 Sullivan ‘James O’ Neil’ Cabernet Sauvignon-The 2013 ‘James O’ Neil Cabernet Sauvignon by Sullivan reveals anise and dried herbs alongside a great core of dark fruits and coffee grounds on the nose. The palate is soft, round and nicely evolved, showing a light dusting of salinity. Rich cocoa powder and cassis flavors collide with minerals, Turkish coffee and shades of Black Forest cake on the palate. This is quite seamless and polished mid-palate. Great now, this will continue to evolve well for another decade. Drink 2021-2031- 94

King Estate

King EstatAs we march on another great Oregon Wine Month we bring you what is truly one of the west coast’s most beautiful wineries, King Estate. Located in the southern end of the Willamette Valley. King Estate is one of the few wineries in North America (potentially the only one) where more vines of Pinot Gris are grown than any other varietal. There is a reason for this — year after year King Estate delivers two of the best Pinot Gris bottlings for the price in the state, with their entry level wine and their top of the line ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris. I have had every ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris back to 2011 and I have been pretty overwhelmed with the quality in this bottling which shows amazing texture and range. These also age marvelously as I did a retrospective on these wines a few years back and found them to be standout wines in even hot vintages.

Each year I visit the winery and chat with their winemaker, Brett Stone, who has been at the helm since 2011. Brett crafts some beautiful Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir wines. His ‘Willamette Valley’ collection of wines has been synonymous with value. I adore the fresh and vibrant 2019 King Estate Pinot Gris (OB, 90) which has great viscosity and tension. For many years I have admired their ‘Domaine’ series which is a barrel selection and more limited production than their ‘Willamette Valley’ bottlings. One of the outstanding Pinot Gris bottling I have had in the past year, their 2019 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris (OB, 93) has good poise and weight. This really has another ten years in front of it!  Learn more about this famed Oregon estate at https://www.kingestate.com

2016 King Estate ‘Brut Cuvee’ Sparkling Wine- This spent extensive time aging in the bottle, as the 2016 ‘Brut Cuvee’ shows yeasty and sourdough bread tones aromatically with baking spices and lemon zest tones shining together in the glass. The palate shows good freshness with a light dusting of salinity across green apple, green papaya, smoky minerals and shades of  wild mushroom. The length and mouthfeel is really nice here as this great new wine will be best enjoyed over the next eight years. Drink 2020-2028- 91

2019 King Estate ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Gris- Soft and beautifully textured, the 2019 Pinot Gris by King Estate shows gooseberry and kumquat tones alongside pear and shades of beeswax on the palate. The degree of tension and viscosity really makes this wine sing. Drink 2021-2026- 90

2019 King Estate. ‘Paradox’ Pinot Gris- The 2019 ‘Paradox’ is a new bottling that showcases barrel-aged Pinot Gris. It comes off very generous on the palate with ripe peach, Japanese pear and kiwi flavors that mingle with nutty undertones. Drink 2021-2027- 90

2019 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris- The 2019 ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris is a sensational bottling by the talented Brett Stone. The rich mouthfeel and vibrant sense of tension both impress, as layers of gooseberry, kiwi and Macadamia nut with tilled soil tones all brilliantly combine on the palate. Fantastic to enjoy now, this has another decade of life in front of it. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2019 King Estate ‘Oregon’ Sauvignon Blanc- Lemongrass and white grapefruit tones mingle with wet stone and minerals on the palate. Enjoy now. Drink 2021-2024- 88

2019 King Estate ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay- Ripe pear and vanilla cream tones mingle with stony minerals on the palate. A touch lean, this is a fresher style that is best enjoyed over the next several years. Drink 2021-2025- 88

2020 King Estate Rose- The 2020 Rose by King Estate shows soft guava, strawberry, bubblegum and melon tones on the palate with plenty of acidity. The rich sense of texture adds to the enjoyment. Drink 2021-2025- 90

2019 King Estate ‘Inscription’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Inscription’ shows lighter tart red fruits with citrus rind and tobacco tones on the palate. Enjoy now. Drink 2021-2024-  88

2018 King Estate ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir by King Estate shows off damp earth, cranberry and red currants on the nose. The palate is very fresh and vibrant considering the heat of the vintage. Bright red fruits collide with smoke, minerals and peat moss tones on the palate. Drink 2021-2029- 90

Owen Bargreen Concierge Tasting Services

Many years in the making, I wanted to share my exclusive concierge service in which I present some of the great wines of the Pacific Northwest and world in the comforts of your living room. Services can be either through Zoom or an outdoors in-person experience, following Covid-19 guidelines.

I’ll share my thoughts as we taste some of the prized wines of the region together, including those from Cayuse Vineyards, Horsepower Vineyards, Quilceda Creek, Reynvaan, Leonetti Cellar, Domaine Serene, Big Table Farm and many more. Interested in learning more about Champagne and Sparkling Wines? I can help you with that! Want to explore older Oregon wines? I can also do that.

Learn about vintages, varietals or how to taste like a pro, as I offer this exclusive one-on-one experience. Whether it is an afternoon with friends or a corporate tasting experience, I think you will revel in this unique opportunity.

If interested, please email me at owen@owenbargreen.com