Tablas Creek

One of the premier wineries in Paso Robles, Tablas Creek started as an iconic partnership between Chateau Beaucastel and Robert Haas, owner of their United States importer, Vineyard Brands. Last year I was fortunate enough to undertake what was nothing short of a spectacular tasting of their famed Southern Rhone style red wine, the ‘Espirit de Tablas.’ I was struck by the incredible aging potential of these wines. 

It is hard to believe that this winery began all the way back in 1990 when Beaucastel proprietors Jean-Pierre and François Perrin and Robert Haas found a former alfalfa farm that is set on limestone soils in the Adelaida Hills. From the beginning they focused on Rhône-style wines made organically. The first plantings took place in1994 and the first Tablas Creek Vineyard wines produced in 1997. The winery has been an incredible success since that time, reaching worldwide acclaim particularly for their Rhone style red and white blends.

I loved the new 2020 Tablas Creek ‘Patelin de Tablas’ Rose (OB, 90) which is such a fantastic deal with the complexity gained at this price point. One of the great California Rose wines I have had this year, the 2020 Tablas Creek ‘Dianthus’ Rose (OB, 92) is dense and chewy with awesome range and a seriously good texture. This is a Rose to buy by the case. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://tablascreek.com Here are the outstanding new wines by Tablas Creek. 

2020 Tablas Creek ‘Patelin de Tablas’ Rose- A blend of mainly Grenache (75%) with small parts Mourvedre and Coinoise, this shows off pretty red rose petals alongside damp earth and ripe red fruits with a silky mouthfeel. Enjoy this great value now. Drink 2021-2024- 90

2020 Tablas Creek ‘Dianthus’ Rose- The 2020 ‘Dianthus’ blends 48% Mourvedre with 37%Grenache and the remainder Counoise. Weighing in at 14% alcohol, this shows off ripe red currants alongside wet stone, blood orange zest and shades of red cherry Starburst candy on the nose. The palate is plush and beautifully textured with great weight and minerality. Intense strawberry and cranberry flavors mingle with minerals, smoke and a great saline streak on the palate. Beautiful now, this has another seven years to go. Drink 2021-2028- 92

2020 Tablas Creek Vermentino- The 2020 Vermentino by Tablas Creek shows off green bell pepper with gooseberry and wet stone on the nose. The palate is fresh, vibrant and beautifully textured. Wet stone and vanilla cream combine with green papaya, mango, and Gravenstein apple with cantaloupe undertones. Complex and delicious, this vibrant and rich wine will entice for another seven years but I would suggest enjoying young while the great vein of tension runs through. Drink 2021-2026- 93

2019 Tablas Creek Roussanne- The 2019 Rousanne by Tablas Creek shows off a downright incredible bouquet with honeysuckle alongside ripe melon tones and wet stone that all sing in unison. The palate is soft and seamless with a silky texture and incredible length. Vanilla cream, wet stone, honeydew melon and pink grapefruit oil all impress on the palate. This has a long way to go. Drink 2021-2033- 94

2019 Tablas Creek ‘Patelin de Tablas’ Red Wine- A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, and Counoise, this shows a dusting of white pepper with smoked brisket and ripe red currants on the palate. Soft and round on the mouth, with plenty of tart red fruits, enjoy over the next five to seven years.Drink 2021-2027- 90

2019 Tablas Creek ‘Cotes de Tablas’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Cotes de Tablas’ blends 44% Grenache with 30% Syrah and smaller parts Counoise and Mourvedre. The wine is all about balance with plenty of finesse and a great combination of red and dark fruits. White pepper dusted bacon, wild mushroom and fresh sage all marvelously combine on the palate. Beautiful now, this will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031- 92

Valo Cellars

A winery that has impressed with their new releases, Valo Cellars is the brainchild of Matias Kusulas and Michael Ruhland. Matias has formerly been production winemaker at M& L Productions and has been Viticulturist for Lawrence Vineyards since 2017. Hailing from Chile, Kusulas has masters degrees in enology and viticulture from both Bordeaux and Montpelier. Kusulas has worked a range of jobs spanning the globe including stints in New Zealand and Chateauneuf-Du-Pape. Matias works with Taylor Ramsey on the project, as Taylor was formerly assistant winemaker at Sleight of Hand in Walla Walla.

I really enjoyed these wines across the board. Their great entry level Chardonnay, the 2019 Valo (OB, 90 hails from the Connor Lee Vineyard and has really nice length. Even better is their 2018 Valo Cellars ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay (OB, 91) which is sourced from the Lawrence Vineyard and shows a beautiful texture. I adored the 2018 Valo Cellars ‘Intemporal’ Red Wine (OB, 92) which is dense and chewy with some good cellaring potential. Learn more about these excellent new wines at valocellars.com and here are my tasting notes from the new Valo Cellars wines.

2019 Valo Cellars Chardonnay- Sourced from the esteemed ‘Connor Lee Vineyard’ this was age for 12 months in new and used French oak puncheons prior to bottling. The wine is soft and delivers a rich sense of mouthfeel with sweetened orchard fruit flavors alongside good acidity and good length. Drink 2021-2027- 90

2018 Valo Cellars ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Reserve’ is sourced from the ‘Lawrence Vineyard’ in the newly minted Royal Slope AVA. The palate is very fresh and focused with melon, green apple and vanilla cream flavors. Drink 2021-2027- 91

2018 Valo Cellars Merlot- Sourced from the ‘Lawrence Vineyard’ the 2018 Merlot has sagebrush and chocolate aromas with wild blackberry and suggestions of baking spices aromatically. The palate unveils a polished texture with intense dark fruits, pipe tobacco and chocolate fudge flavors. Beautiful now, this has another eight to ten years ahead of it. Drink 2021-2029- 91

2018 Valo Cellars Malbec Syrah- Sourced from the ‘Lawrence Vineyard’ this deeply colored wine shows off black tea, blackberry compote, graphite, chocolate cake and herbal undertones aromatically. The palate is downright gratifying with its dense mouthfeel and ripe dark fruits and chocolate tones. Full-bodied, this has another ten years to go. Drink 2021-2029- 91

2018 Valo Cellars ‘Intemporal’ Red Wine- Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon from the Solaksen Vineyard, this shows mocha, tar and rich dark fruits on the palate with chocolate and sagebrush undertones. Full-bodied and delicious to enjoy now, the ‘Intemporal’ has some good cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2018 Valo Celars Cabernet Sauvignon- Ripe and soft on the mouth, the 2018 Valo Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon has fresh sage and black currant flavors alongside sweetened blackberry and tar undertones on the palate. Rich and showing a good core of dark fruits, this excellent new bottling has another decade of life to go. Drink 2021-2029- 91

2018 Valo Cellars ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon impresses its its very soft mouthfeel and soft tannins that hold in place a great core of dark fruits with tobacco and milk chocolate flavors. Full-bodied and delicious in its youth, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2018 Valo Cellars ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Franc- The 2018 ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Franc was sourced from the ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ in the Columbia Valley. You’re greeted to a soft mouthfeel with ripe dark currants and dark cherry flavors with underbrush accents on the palate. Slightly sweet, this has another eight to ten years to go. Drink 2021-2029- 91

Leonetti Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Single Vineyard Wines

As I very slowly moved from one wine to the next, with each sip I thought to myself ‘wow! What a wine!’ This was just a remarkable tasting that I embarked on a few days ago, trying all of the 2018 single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon wines by Leonetti Cellars and famed winemaker Chris Figgins. ‘We have a really great team’ said Chris, when asked about the wines. Humble, thoughtful and soft-spoken, I anticipated such a response from Chris who very carefully crafted each wine to be divergent and unique from one another.

A few years back I was surprised when told that Leonetti was changing their wine program for one of the first times in decades to create their single vineyard wines. When I sat down with Chris and first tried these wines, he was grinning from ear to ear about the end product. Each vineyard in their portfolio has quite different terroir. I loved the salty tones in the 2018 Leonetti Cellar ‘Holy Roller’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 96) which for my palate is the best edition of this wine in terms of flavor density, range and finesse. This beauty is exceedingly good in its youth and unlike the other releases can be enjoyed right now following a long decant. The rest of the single vineyard wines will require some patience just as Leonetti wines always do. I was floored by the 2018 Leonetti Cellar ‘Loess’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 97) which too I find to be the best edition of this wine since it has been made. Again, the flavor density and intensity of the wine is exemplary, as this finishes exceedingly long. Try to resist this beauty for several more years. Learn more about these sensational new wines at leonetticellar.com and here are my tasting notes from the glorious new 2018 Leonetti Cellar single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon wines. 

2018 Leonetti Cellar ‘Holy Roller’ Cabernet Sauvignon-The ‘Holy Roller Vineyard’ is set in the Walla Walla Rocks District as vines are set at roughly 950 feet on cobblestones and loam. Salt dusted black fruits mark the nose with shades of sagebrush, leather and dusty soils. The palate is silky and vibrant with a massive amount of salinity and stony character that makes this entirely different than anything you will find in this region. The depth and concentration is seriously good here. Black currants and black cherry compote flavors mingle with chocolate and garrigue notes on the palate. Exceedingly good even now at the three year mark, this will cellar well for at least another fifteen years. Be sure to give this at least two hours in the decanter if enjoying now. Drink 2023-2040- 96

2018 Leonetti Cellar ‘Loess’ Cabernet Sauvignon- As the name suggests, the ‘Loess Vineyard’ is located on the Leonetti Estate and is set on Walla Walla Silt Loam known as Loess soils. Deeply concentrated and intense once in the glass, heady dark fruit aromas greet you with tobacco leaf, milk chocolate covered cherry and shades of tar. The palate is extremely refined and elegant with a massive flavor density and rich texture. While obviously overt and hedonistic, the verve and experience of acidity is really good. Roasted dates, black currants and espresso bean flavors collide with minerals, smoke and fresh sage on the palate. The glorious length adds to the enjoyment, as this exceptional new wine really needs a few more years of bottle age to reach its full potential. Drink 2024-2045- 97

2018 Leonetti Cellar ‘Serra Pedace’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Serra Pedace Vineyard’ is a high elevation site that was named after the Leonetti ancestors Frank and Rose Leonetti’s hometown in Calabria, Italy. Anise, tar and black licorice notes combine with suggestions of black cherry syrup on the nose. The palate shows good freshness and serious flavor density. Creme de cassis and creme de violette flavors meld well with minerals, sweet pipe tobacco, creosote and shades of espresso grounds on the palate. This is a big Cabernet Sauvignon in terms of weight but while extremely generous, the focus and precision in the winemaking is really impressive. This is drinking beautifully even in its youth but try to resist this beauty for at least a few more years if you can. Drink 2024-2045- 98

2018 Leonetti Cellar ‘Mill Creek Upland’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Set in the foothills of the Blue Mountains at roughly 1500 feet, the ‘Mill Creek Upland Vineyard’ is set on Onyx Silt Loam soils and is entirely planted to Bordeaux varietals. Once on the nose this takes on layers of black tea, anise and baking spices woven together with creme de cassis tones and Turkish coffee. The palate is dense and plush, unveiling a downright pillowy texture. Lush dark currants collide with exotic spices, mocha, tar and anise flavors on the palate with freshly tilled soil undertones. Fresh and vibrant, with gobs of acidity and plenty of stuffing, this beautiful wine will provide drinking enjoyment for decades to come. Drink 2024-2045- 97

Domaine Carneros

It was a hot summer day amongst the pandemic crazy smoky backdrop and my wife and I sat outside at Domaine Carneros, one of the most beautiful spots in Napa. As we tasted through the lineup we couldn’t help but be impressed with .the overall quality in the lineup and beautiful finesse and mousse in each wine. Domaine Carneros towers over the valley, showcasing sweeping views of the Napa Valley. Claude Taittinger of famed Champagne house Taittinger, began his search for a good spot to make California Sparkling Wine in the late 1970s. Finally in 1987 he selected a 138-acre parcel in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley. 

Last year Domaine Carneros has a new CEO, Remi Cohen who in 2015 was named to Wine Enthusiast’s 40 under 40 recognition as a tastemaker and influencer in the Napa Valley. Napa pioneer Eileen Crane has been crafting sensational, age-worthy sparkling wines in the Napa Valley for over 30 years. These are wines that age brilliantly as in the past year I have tried more than ten year old bottles of her ‘Le Reve’ which is one of the premier sparkling wines that you will find in North America.

I adored the new 2016 Domaine Carneros ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 93) which is dense and soft with a silky mousse and mouthfeel. Just as good is the sterling and crisp 2016 Domaine Carneros ‘Ultra’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 93) which is fresh and vibrant with its green apple and salty undertones. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://www.domainecarneros.com Here are the new sparkling wines by Domaine Carneros

2016 Domaine Carneros ‘Estate Brut Cuvee’ Sparkling Wine- The 2016 ‘Estate Brut Cuvee’ reveals toasty brioche notes with apricot and pink grapefruit on the nose. The silky mousse is lovely here as layers of toasted Macadamia nut, green apple, baking spice infused sourdough bread and earthy undertones brilliantly combine on the palate. Drink 2021-2027- 92

2016 Domaine Carneros ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine- This is a limited production bottling that has a good portion (17%) of Pinot Gris blended in. Given just .9% dosage the wine shows a hauntingly good nose with yeasty tones alongside Gravenstein apple, lemon rind and shades of pink grapefruit blossom. The palate shows a very refined mousse which makes this glide across the drinking experience. Loads of citrus fruits collide with minerals and bright acidity with saline drenched green melon fruits on the palate. Seriously good now, this has the weight and freshness to provide drinking enjoyment over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2016 Domaine Carneros ‘Ultra Brut’ Sparkling Wine- A blend of near equal parts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this was given just a touch of dosage (.5%). The nose shows biscuit and wet slate tones alongside kumquat and French bread aromatics. The viscosity here is really good as layers of lemon drop, brioche, and salted cashew meld with minerals and the silky mousse on the palate. This is really refined stuff that has another decade or more ahead of it. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2017 Domaine Carneros Rose Sparkling Wine- Crafted by leaving the Pinot Noir on the skins for three days following harvest, this blends 59% Pinot Noir with the remainder Chardonnay. Ripe red cherry and red raspberry flavors combine with minerals, wet stone and salty undertones on the palate. The soft mouthfeel and rich mousse add to the enjoyment. Quite simply, this brilliant stuff to savor now and is better served at a warmer temperature to showcase its full range of flavors. Drink 2021-2027- 92

2018 Domaine Carneros ‘Le Ciel Serein’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Le Ciel Serein’ was planted between 2002 and 2004, as this site has diverse soils and rolling hills. The soft mouthfeel and wonderful sense of salinity here both entice, as flavors of guava, red cherry puree, pomegranate seed and tilled salty soils all brilliantly combine on the palate. Rich and viscous, with good acidity, this will continue to provide drinking enjoyment for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2018 Domaine Carneros ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 Domaine Carneros ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir spent ten months in French oak before bottling and encompasses a range of Pinot Noir clones. The palate delivers juicy red fruits and comes off full-bodied with cola, orange rind and sassafras undertones. With good acidity, this will hold another decade or more. Drink 2021-2031- 92

Larkmead

I have long admired the wines from Larkmead Vineyards. One of the historic Napa estates, founded in 1895, Larkmead Vineyards have gained an international reputation for their world class Cabernet Sauvignon wines. Their estate vineyard is located between Selby Creek and the Napa River at the conjunction point of two colluvial fans that extend from the Mayacamas and the Vaca mountain ranges. Vines are set on an ancient gravel riverbed gravel which lies directly beneath the topsoil. 

Winemaker Dan Petroski is one Napa’s great winemakers. I adored what he has accomplished with the 2018 vintage across the board. Born in Brooklyn, Dan attended Columbia University and then completed NYU business school before moving into marketing, finance and advertising at Time Inc. and Sports Illustrated. His interest in wine moved him to Sicily, as caught the wine bug and later migrated to the Napa Valley, devoting himself into learning the art and science of winemaking.

I absolutely love the new 2018 Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) which is dense and concentrated with some incredible cellaring potential. Even better is the downright scintillating 2018 Larkmead ‘Solari’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 97) which really needs a little bottle age and air if opening now. This is a massive wine that shows incredible complexity and length. Learn more about this storied Napa estate at https://larkmead.com Here is the beautiful new 2018 wines by Larkmead Vineyards.

2018 Larkmead ‘Firebelle’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Firebelle’ is a gorgeous blend of nearly all Merlot (75%) with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon. The bouquet shows off cocoa powder dusted red cherry with tobacco leaf and sage undertones. The soft mouthfeel and good sense of texture adds to the enjoyment as kirsch cordial and mocha combine with shades of eucalyptus on the palate. With very elegant tannins this plush and refined Merlot blend will continue to provide drinking enjoyment for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2021-2036- 94

2018 Larkmead ‘LMV Salon’ Red Wine- The 2018 Larkmead ‘LMV Salon’ is a stunning new bottling by Dan Petroski. The right bank inspired blend of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon with the reminader Cabernet Franc saw 20 months of mostly new oak (69%) before bottling. Once on the nose this takes on lovely red bell pepper aromatics from the Cabernet Franc, alongside menthol, red currants and cigar box, adding to the great range. The palate is plush, as the seamless texture guides this highly refined wine. The weightless feeling mid-palate is really extraordinary here, as this unique Napa blend will cellar well for another fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2021-2039- 96

2018 Larkmead Cabernet Sauvignon- Deep, concentrated and brooding once in the glass, the 2018 Larkmead Cabernet Sauvignon is a sensational showing from this esteemed vintage in the Napa Valley. Rich anise and Black Forest cake aromas fill the nose, alongside graphite and tar undercurrents. The pillowy texture entices. Ripe dark currants collide with smoky minerals, tobacco leaf, dark chocolate shavings and espresso bean flavors. Complex, and rich, yet highly elegant, this beautiful wine has another twenty years ahead of it. If enjoying now give this at least a two hour decant. Drink 2022-2039- 95

2018 Larkmead ‘Solari’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 Larkmead ‘Solari’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning new barrel select wine. The nose is gratifying and shows really good range from pipe tobacco and leather to Turkish coffee, boysenberry cordial and smoky undertones. The palate is intense and shows a massive wall of dark fruits with graphite, espresso bean, dark chocolate cake and a light dusting of salinity. Sinfully good in its youth, give this at least a few more years for everything to fully come together. Drink 2023-2042-97

Cairdeas

One of the great stops in Lake Chelan, Cairdeas is an ancient Gaelic word meaning friendship, goodwill or alliance. Founded by Charlie and Lacey Lybecker in 2009, Cairdeas is named after Charlie’s Irish heritage, Lacey’s goodwill (that is how we met), the alliance we have made with each other and those in our industry, and the friendships we have made along the way. The winery sources from some great sites throughout Washington including the acclaimed ‘Boushey Vineyard’ in the Yakima Valley and the ‘Lawrence Vineyard’ in the new Royal Slope AVA.

The winery is perched atop the lake with stunning views of Lake Chelan and the surrounding valley. I loved the new 2018 Cairdeas ‘Caislean an Papa’ Red Wine (OB, 92) which is a beautiful CDP style wine that is smoky and savory with a great texture. Just as good is the 2018 Cairdeas ‘Consonance’ Red Wine (OB, 92) which has a soft texture and tons of blue fruits. Learn more about this excellent Chelan outpost at https://cairdeaswinery.com/winery/about-us/ and here are my reviews of the new Cairdeas wines. 

2020 Cairdeas Rose- Fresh and lively, with good verve, this new Rose delivers straightforward ripe red fruits with stony minerals and good earthy undertones. Very lively, enjoy over the next few years. Drink 2021-2023- 89

2018 Cairdeas ‘Caislean an Papa’ Red Wine- A CDP inspired blend from the Boushey Vineyard, this shows off nice smoky aromatics alongside black tea, red currants and white pepper dusted bacon on this fantastic bouquet. The palate is soft, pretty and beautifully textured. Red and dark fruits parade with smoked brisket and scorched earth tones, with a hint of wintergreen. Gorgeous now, this will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2018 Cairdeas ‘Tri’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Tri’ red wine (68% Syrah) shows off black tea, exotic spices, blackberry compote, smoked pork shoulder and black olive tapenade notes on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with plenty of finesse and a good core of dark fruits with the smoky, damp earth and herbal undertones. Drink 2021-2029- 91

2018 Cairdeas ‘Consonance’ Red Wine- Utlizing a large portion of Petit Sirah (60%), this brooding wine shows off gobs of blue fruits with a pillowy texture and chocolate undertones. Hedonistic, yet showing good restraint and finesse, this is gorgeous, one of a kind wine to enjoy over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2027- 92

FIGGINS

Today it is my pleasure to share one of the storied houses in Washington, based in Walla Walla. Figgins is magic project formed by Walla Walla native, Chris Figgins — truly one of the great talents of the Pacific Northwest. What was originally a wheat farm, the 32 acre Figgins Estate Vineyard was first planted in 2004 and plays host to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Originally Figgins Estate only made two wines each year, a Riesling and a Red Blend and more recently they have started to produce a wine made of Merlot and Petit Verdot, their ‘Figlia’ which is a beautiful tribute to Chris’s two daughters. The Figgins Estate is quite simply producing some of the best Petit Verdot if not THE best Petit Verdot in the Pacific Northwest.

The Figgins Red Wine is always a proprietary blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. It is a wine of serious cellaring potential akin to the Leonetti wines that Chris has been so famous for. I have been marvelously impressed with how older vintages of this wine has showed. In the past year I have tried both the 2012 and 2013 — both of which were slightly austere upon release and absolutely glorious now. These examples show that the Figgins Red Wine has some incredible aging potential that rivals Leonetti bottlings. 

I was enamored by the new release, the 2018 Figgins Red. Wine (OB, 97) which is the best Figgins red wine that I have ever tasted. Harmonious and highly evocative (particularly with the herbal edge and chocolate tones from the Petit Verdot), this is a masterpiece from Chris Figgins where you can see every working part of the orchestra playing in unison together.  Learn more about these incredible wines at http://www.figginswine.com Here are my notes of the 2018 Figgins Red Wine. 

2018 FIGGINS Red Wine- This is now the second time that I’ve had the pleasure to taste the utterly glorious 2018 FIGGINS Red Wine, a blending masterpiece by Chris Figgins and his winemaking team. This thing is massive monster of a wine that really needs several hours of air to get going. But once tamed, aromatics literally explode out of the glass, unveiling dark currants, roasted figs, black rose petals and creosote tones with shades of green bell pepper from the Petit Verdot blended in. The palate is pillowy and opulent once on the mouth. Layers of creme de cassis, anise, violets, dark cherry cordial, graphite and espresso bean with green bell pepper undertones all brilliantly combine with a vibrant sense of tension. Firm tannins hold everything in place. While this is extraordinary to savor upon release, try your best to resist this beautiful wine for at least a few more years. Drink 2025-2050- 97

Devium Vertical Tasting

As our summer turns up the heat, I wanted to share one of the outstanding boutique wineries in Walla Walla, now complete their their own tasting room in the airport district of Walla Walla. Keith Johnson of Sleight of Hand fame started his own project winery a few years back by utilizing a great fruit source, the ‘French Creek Vineyard.’ This is a south-facing site that has some relatively old vines and is planted to a range of varietals, from Chardonnay to high density plantings of Rhone red grapes such as Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre. Set on silt loam soils, the site is located high atop the Yakima River and lies at the edge of canyon allowing for great air drainage especially during spring frosts. 

Before we tasted the red wines, we ran through his lineup of Devium sparkling wines which is a Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs from the famed Cello Vineyard. These wines were spectacular and will be released later. The wine has a silky mousse and a wonderful sense of tension. This is highly fresh Chardonnay sparkling wine that are going to age brilliantly.

As for the vertical I saw a common vein of salty soils and great terroir in each of the wines. he ‘French Creek Vineyard’ Red Wines all really impressed. Their 2015 wine was really impressive and is showing brilliantly even with the heat spikes that occurred which made it more difficult to construct wines with freshness, good flavor density and flavor range. The 2018 Devim Red Wine was really young and fresh but had such a vibrant sense of acidity. More evolved was the beautiful 2017 Devium Red Wine which weighs in at less than 13% alcohol and shows really good flavor and aromatic range, almost Burgundian in the wine’s approach with its incredible finesse and construction. Keith has asked me not to score these wines but for my palate, each oft these showed beautifully. Learn more at deviumwine.com Here are my tasting notes from a glorious vertical tasting. 

2015 Devium ‘French Creek Vineyard’ Red Wine- The wine is nearly all Mourvedre (90%) with a touch of Syrah and Grenache Blanc. Stony accents come together with red cherry preserves, hoisin sauce and charcuterie. This is delicious wine that is truly unique. This shows good flavor density and range considering the heat of the vintage. 

2016 Devium ‘French Creek Vineyard’ Red Wine-The 2016 blends 76% Mourvedre with the remainder Syrah and a touch of Grenache Blanc. The wine comes off quite peppercorn driven with a heavy dose of white pepper. The wine is considerably more youthful than the 2015, showing great verve. Layers of wild blackberry and smoked brisket combine with orange rind 

2017 Devium ‘French Creek Vineyard’ Red Wine- 81% Mourvedre with 18% Syrah and a smash of Grenache Blanc, the wine weighs in at only 12.7% alcohol. This was picked extremely late. Peppered bacon falls on the nose with violets, orange blossom and pretty red fruits. The palate is soft and fresh, highly linear. Layers of huckleberry with green olives combine with salted Parma ham, giving this a very savory edge. 

2018 Devium ‘French Creek Vineyard’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘French Creek Vineyard’ Red Wine is a beautiful, finesse-driven wine. The palate is very saline-driven with a savory edge. Black olive tapenade and salted meats combine with a great core of dark fruits. This is just an infant. 

2019 Devium ‘French Creek Vineyard’ Red Wine- The 2019 Devium ‘French Creek Vineyard’ blends 70%Mourvedre with 28% Syrah and a dollop of Grenache Blanc. The flavor range here is outstanding from black fruits to Parma ham, black olives and shades of smoky, smoldering stones. 

Upsidedown Wine

Seth Kitzke has slowly become one of the great young talents in Washington wine. Due to the pandemic, I had last met with Seth at my 2020 Washington Wine Blog event more than a year ago. This time we were tasting together at his exciting new production facility outside of Richland, Washington. 

A few years back Seth and his wife, Audrey founded Upsidedown Wine, a winery that contributes to several great causes. The winery gives back through every bottle of their wine sold. If you order direct or join their wine club, 20% of the proceeds go to support these non-profit charity organizations including the Young & Brave organization. This is for a seriously good cause. Seth has now been in the industry for many years, having studied wine under Regina Daigneault, and previously working with Brennon Leighton at K Vitners/Charles Smith Wines as well as Brian Carter Cellars with Brian Carter.

Seth has a love for texture in his wines. The wines he crafts have really good mouthfeel and finesse. A killer value is his 2020 Upsidedown Wine Rescue Rose (OB, 91) which was one of the top wines on my 2021 Pacific Northwest Rose Report. I loved his F@*#!! ‘Birds + Things + Flowers’ Syrah (OB, 92) which is a sensational value and shows great finesse and range. Do not miss out on the deeply concentrated 2018 Upsidedown Wine ‘Lalonde’ Red Wine (OB, 94) which is a limited production, seamless wine that is more full-throttle off of Red Mountain. Learn more about this great winery at http://drinkupsidedownwine.com Here are the excellent new wines by Seth Kizke and by Upsidedown Wine and Kitzke Family Wines. 

2020 Upsidedown Wine ‘Rescue’ Rose- The ‘Rescue’ Rose saw a touch of puncheon fermentation as this was largely aged in stainless steel. Right away the wine shows pretty white rose petals with white peach, red raspberry and stony undertones on the nose. The palate is fresh and vibrant with great acidity. Layers of pretty red fruits collide with minerals, citrus rind and wet stone accents on the palate. Drink 2021-2025- 91

2020 Cluster F@*#!! ‘Sans Soufre’ Grenache- The 2020 ‘Sans Soufre’ Grenache shows wet stone and pretty red fruits with kumquat zest on the nose. Fresh and vibrant this has a very pretty red fruit profile with wet stone and orange rind accents that connect with guava, red raspberry and red flowers. Drink 2021-2023- 90

2020 Cluster F@*#!!  Grenache- The 2020 2020 Cluster F@*#!! Grenache is sourced from the northern part of the Columbia Valley, as this yields super fresh and crunchy red fruits that combine with volcanic stones, making this a very stony profile. With great finesse, this is best enjoyed over the next several years. Drink 2021-2025- 91

2019 Cluster F@*#!! ‘Birds + Things + Flowers’ Syrah- This northern Columbia Valley Syrah has 5% Viognier co-fermented in. Right away this shows off wet stone and smoky tines with pretty dark rose florals that all meld in the glass. The palate is plush and wonderfully smoky. Layers of black tea and smoked brisket with lush dark fruits and a good sense of minerality. Drink 2021-2027- 92

2018 Upsidedown Wine ‘Gold Drop’ Malbec- Sourced from the ‘Dead Poplar Vineyard’ this shows off dark flowers with chocolate and blueberry compote aromatics. The palate is plush with great flavor density. Black and blue fruits with stony minerals, white pepper and really good length. This is seriously good Malbec that is built to age. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2018 Upsidedown Wine ‘Cross Block’ Mourvedre- The 2018 ‘Cross Block’ Mourvedre is sourced from the ‘Coyote Canyon Vineyard’ in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The palate is fresh and super savory with salted meats, black olives, red cherry candy, red florals and shades of lavender. Complex, novel and highly delicious, this beautiful wine will be best enjoyed over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2018 Upsidedown Wine ‘Lalonde’ Red Wine- This is a field blend from the Red Heaven Vineyard’ which is mostly Grenache and Syrah that went through 100% whole cluster fermentation. This was then aged in puncheons for 30 months before bottling. The nose is really pretty showing red florals from the Grenache alongside red currants, strawberry and smoky tones on this evocative bouquet. The palate shows good flavor density with mostly red fruits with smoked pork shoulder, charcuterie and finishing extremely long. The combination of sweet, sour and salty components really make this sing. Drink 2021-2031- 94

2018 Upsidedown Wine ‘Artist Series’ Syrah- Sourced from the ‘Candy Ridge Vineyard’ the 2018 ‘Artist Series’ as this underwent 100% whole cluster fermentation and was aged in new oak puncheon before bottling. Once on the palate this shows off pretty red rose petals with smoked brisket and black olives with salty undertones on the palate. The wine has marvelous length and tension with a silky mouthfeel. Drink 2021-2031-93

2018 The Devil Is A Liar Red Wine- A blend of Grenache, Syrah and a touch of Grenache Blanc all sourced from the WeatherEye Vineyard, this shows a very pretty red fruit profile with crushed wildflowers, orange rind, wet stone and underbrush and a beautiful sense of texture. A light dusting of salinity adds to the enjoyment as this shows incredible finesse throughout the drinking experience. Gorgeous now, this is best enjoyed over the next eight years while the wonderful freshness remains. Drink 2021-2029- 94

2019 The Devil Is A Liar Grenache (BARREL SAMPLE 93-95)

2018 Kitzke ‘Janaina Reserve’ Red Wine- A Super Tuscan style wine utilizing 75% Sangiovese with smaller parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and CabernetFranc, the ‘Janaina Reserve’ shows off rich red and dark fruits alongside toffee and salty undertones. Drink 2021-2033- 92

2018 Kitzke Cabernet Franc- Right away this shows off nice sagebrush and black tea aromatics that all take place in the glass. Rich dark fruits collide with dark chocolate and sagebrush with salty undertones all impress on the palate. Drink 2021-2033- 92

2018 Kitzke ‘Old Vine Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Old Vine Reserve’ Red Wine shows dense dark and blue fruits alongside black tea, anise and cassis flavors. The light dusting of salinity and good length really entice as this has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2033- 92

2018 Kitzke Petit Verdot- Inky once in the glass, the wine shows off black tea, blackberry cobbler, mocha and espresso bean flavors with milk chocolate undertones. Stony and fresh with salty undertones, this is dense and plush Petit Verdot that will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2033- 92

Fidelitas

Fidelitas 

One of the longtime producers on Red Mountain, I want to say that my father and I were some of the first visitors to his modern tasting facility that he launched on Red Mountain.Tasting with Charlie and his son, Will, I noticed the attention to detail and consistency over each wine. Charlie Hoppes served as former head winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle. Prior to working at Chateau Ste. Michelle, he attended the world renowned Viticulture and Enology program at the University of California, Davis and in 1988 he graduated with a degree in Agricultural Science and Management with a special emphasis in Viticulture and Enology. After a brief stint in Walla Walla in 1990 at Waterbrook Winery, he began working with superstar winemaker Mike Januik as a member of the winemaking team at Ste. Michelle in Woodinville. In 1993, he became the Head Red Winemaker and managed Ste. Michelle’s newest facility at the time, Canoe Ridge near Paterson, Washington. Hoppes had the pleasure of making the first vintages of Col Solare, from 1995-1998. After some time, Hoppes wanted to start his own project. Hoppes finally decided to purchase some land on Red Mountain, founding Fidelitas in 2000 -- and has produced fantastic reds and whites since that time. Fidelitas is known for their red and white Bordeaux blends, as well as their rich Cabernets. 

I was highly impressed with their range of new release wines. A wine that continues to impress each year is their 2019 Fidelitas ’4040 Red Wine’ (OB, 92) which has plenty of flavor density and chocolate tones. I absolutely love the 2018 Fidenitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Malbec (OB, 95) which is one of the great Malbec wines that you will find in the state. This is dense and chewy but also weightless and shows a seamless texture.  Learn more about the great Fidelitas lineup at http://www.fidelitaswines.com/ Here are the great new wine releases from Fidelitas.

2019 Fidelitas ‘4040’ Red Wine- A blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (63%) this shows forward and juicy red and dark fruits with tobacco and chocolate undertones. With good freshness and weight, this has another decade ahead of it. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2018 Fidelitas ‘Old Vines’ Merlot- Sourced from the first plantings from the Ciel du Cheval and Kiona Vineyards, the nose takes on red cherry candy and cassis tones alongside sagebrush and milk chocolate undertones on the nose. The palate is silky and elegant with a great sense of texture. Ripe red and dark fruits collide with tobacco leaf and milk chocolate covered raspberry. Drink 2021-2033- 94

2018 Fidelitas ‘Blackwood Canyon’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from this older site on Red Mountain first planted in 1984, the 2018 ‘Blackwood Canyon’ Cabernet Sauvignon opens with kirsch notes alongside smoke, scorched earth and black tea aromatic notes. The palate is soft and smooth with silky and refined tannins. Herbal undertones mark the core of bright dark fruits alongside dark chocolate shavings on the palate. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2018 Fidelitas ‘Estate’ Malbec- The 2018 ‘Estate’ Malbec is the first of its kind from this estate vineyard that was planted back in 2015. Blackberry cobbler and blueberry pie combine with coffee ground and violet aromatics. The palate is plush and soft, delivering good flavor density and freshness. Black and blue fruits collide with smoke, minerals and menthol undertones on the palate. This is drinking beautifully right now and has another fifteen years to go. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2018 Fidelitas ‘Estate’ Red Wine- The Cabernet Sauvignon dominant ‘Estate’ Red Wine blends a large amount of Petit Verdot (35%) with smaller parts Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. The Petit Verdot jumps out of the glass with its green bell pepper notes alongside a dusting of white pepper and a massive wall of dark fruits with dark floral undertones. The palate is dense and plush but the harmonious effect each working part really makes this sing. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2018 Fidelitas ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Entirely clone 2 and 6 Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2018 ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows off exotic spices and toasty oak on the nose with nutty undertones and a massive wall of dark fruits. The palate is dense and silky with great viscosity and tension. Blackberry compote, mocha, tar and herbal undertones all collide on the palate. Gorgeous and focused now, this has another twenty years to go. Drink 2021-2040- 94

2018 Fidelitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Merlot- The 2018 ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Merlot shows off rich cassis and dark cherry aromatics alongside exotic spices. The palate is soft and plush with chewy tannins. Layers of dense dark fruits mingle with tar, minerals and milk chocolate on the palate. Silky and refined tannins, as well as marvelous length, add to the enjoyment. Drink 2021-2038- 94

2018 Fidelitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Malbec- Dense and hedonistic, the 2018 Fidelitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Malbec is quite simply an astoundingly good rendition of Red Mountain Malbec. Right away this shows off a massive core of dark and blue fruits on the palate with copious minerals and beautiful balance. Full-bodied and heady, yet still showing a weightless quality, this is glorious wine that has another two decades to go. Drink 2021-2040- 95

2018 Fidelitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Red Wine- Equal parts Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc (31% each) mark this beautiful new release from the Quintessence Vineyard. Herbal undertones combine with tar, dark currants and tobacco leaf on the nose. The palate is plush and soft with beautiful balance. Layers of red and dark fruits mingle with chocolate, scorched earth and lighter green bell pepper tones on the palate. Drink 2021-2038- 94

2018 Fidelitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Fidelitas has been making this wine since 2012. This saw 28 months in 82% new French oak before bottling. The palate is plush and dense with intense exotic spices and black tea notes alongside blackberry cobbler, cassis and tar notes on the palate. The length, flavor density and elegance of the wine is sensational. Try to give this another year of bottle age if you can. Drink 2022-2040- 95

2018 Fidelitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard Clone 169’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘Clone 169’ unveils a gorgeous nose of dark currants alongside tar, tobacco leaf and nutty undertones. The palate is very polished and soft with a beautiful sense of texture. The weightless quality of the wine is really impressive as a massive wall of dark fruits greet you alongside scorched earth, toasty oak and very refined tannins. Glorious now, this has decades of life to go. Drink 2022-2040- 95

Gorman Winery and Ashan Cellars

A longstanding Woodinville winery, Gorman is founded by Chris Gorman who began his winery shortly after graduating from college in 1991. Before starting he spent 3 years working for a small Italian importer which carefully trained his palate. During that time Chris traveled extensively in the wine areas of Italy, Spain and Germany and finally started his winery in 2002. The winery has been a small operation, crafting consistently good wines from the Columbia Valley. Currently producing roughly 8,000 cases a year Chris focuses on the terroir from Red Mountain and works with great vineyards such as Kiona, Shaw and many others. They also make an excellent Chardonnay called their ‘Big Sissy.’

Speaking of Chardonnay, I have long admired his Ashan Cellars project which crafts limited production Chardonnays that showcase some of the state’s top vineyards. All three Ashan releases from the Cold Creek, Connor Lee and Celilo Vineyards are sensational across the board and are meant for serious lovers of not only Washington white wine but Sonoma and Napa Chardonnay.

Learn more about these outstanding wines at gormanwinery.com. Here are the great new wines by Chris Gorman and his Gorman Winery and Ashan Cellars. 

Gorman

2019 Gorman ‘The Devil You Don’t Know’ Red Wine- A Columbia Valley blend of 55% Syrah and 41% Grenache with 4% Mourvedre this opens with garrigue notes alongside bacon fat and  huckleberry preserves on the nose. The palate is plush, soft and generous with a pillowy mouthfeel. Dense dark fruits parade with chocolate and dried herbal undertones on the palate. Drink 2021-2028- 92 

2019 Gorman ‘The Devil You Know’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘The Devil You Know’ is a proprietary blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot that was aged in French oak for 18 months prior to bottling. The wine is fresh and soft, delivering ripe blackberry, roasted fig and coffee ground flavors with nice green bell pepper undertones coming from the Petit Verdot. Drink 2021-2029- 91

2019 Gorman ‘Old Scatch’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 Gorman ‘Old Scratch’ is a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine sourced from Red Mountain. Inky dark in the glass, this evokes graphite, scorched earth and intense dark fruits aromatically. The palate shows a velvety texture with black currants and tilled soils that march on with minerals and smoky undertones. This is really good stuff for the price. Drink 2021-2033- 92

Ashan

2019 Ashan ‘Celilo Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from this famed high elevation site in the Underwood Mountain region, the wine shows off saline drenched pear and toasted almond notes alongside shades of honeydew melon. The palate is plush and beautifully textured, creating a seamless effect throughout the drinking experience. Wait for the exceedingly good and long finish as this beauty has some cellaring power. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2019 Ashan ‘Cold Creek Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The ‘Cold Creek VIneyard’ grows literally everything from Cabernet and Merlot to Chardonnay — however, the site has gained a really strong reputation for Chardonnay over the past decade or so. With a plump mouthfeel, seamless texture and great fruit weight, the wine shows off Golden Delicious apple, vanilla creme brulee, and nutmeg infused Challah bread flavors, finishing very long. This is very Washington meets Sonoma. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2019 Ashan ‘Connor Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Over the years the ‘Connor Lee Vineyard’ has become one of Washington’s premier sites for Chardonnay. Suggestions of smoke and ripe nectarine come together with baked apple and salted brioche on the nose. The palate is dense and shows great viscosity and tension, reveling in orchard and citrus fruits with vanilla cream tones. Drink 2021-2031- 93

Grapes of Spain

Founded back in 2001, Grapes of Spain, Inc. imports wines exclusively from Spain and currently represents 36 producers with a portfolio of 90+ wines from all corners of Spain. All of the wines are new to the U.S. market and are from family winegrowers and that focus only on high quality and limited production. 

Aurelio Cabestrero, owner, is originally from Madrid, Spain. He worked at Madrid's Cafe de Oriente Restaurant for three years before coming to the US to work as Sommelier for Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC. He worked at Taberna del Alabardero for three years and also worked as Sommelier at Marcel's in Washington DC before pursuing his passion to import Spanish wines 

Aurelio has also won the Ruinart 1993 prize as the Best Sommelier in Spain, Best young Sommelier in 1994 by Wine and Gastronomic Magazine and came in second place at the National Sopexa Competition of French Wines and Spirits 1994. He is also founding member of Madrid Association of Sommeliers.

I’ve been tasting through Aurelio’s portfolio for many years. For a killer value, the 2020 Mar de Vinas Albarino (OB, 90) impresses with its brilliant salinity and freshness. I also really enjoyed a fantastic Rueda, the 2019 Isaac Fernandez ‘Egeo’ (OB, 91) that has great nutty tones with a polished texture. For the collectors, check out the equally good 2017 and 2018 Bodegas San Roman Toro (both OB, 95) which are incredible examples of a dense, earthy Toro wine. Learn more at grapesofspain.com and here are my notes on the new wines by Grapes of Spain. 

2020 Adegas Gran Vinum ‘Esencia Divina’ Albarino- This Rias Baixas Albarino shows melon and green papaya notes alongside shades of green apple and bright acidity. Enjoy this outstanding value with shellfish. Drink 2021-2024- 90

2020 Adegas Gran Vinum ‘Nessa’ Albarino- A touch leaner than the ‘Esencia Divina’ the wine shows gooseberry and unripe melon with good freshness. Enjoy in the short-term. Drink 2021-2024- 88

2020 Adegas Gran Vinum ‘Gran Vinum’ Albarino- The stony tones and bright acidity of the wine really entice, as layers of lemon rind and cantaloupe mingle with baking spices and a touch of French bread all entice. The soft mouthfeel adds to the enjoyment. Drink 2021-2025- 91

2020 Mar de Vinas Albarino- Sourced from the Val do Salnes region of Rias Baixas, this shows off peach and gooseberry on the nose with saline drenched pear. The palate shows a silky texture with green papaya, green apple and a bright sense of salinity, with mouth-watering acidity. Drink 2021-2025- 90

2014 Vina Otano ‘Gran Reserva’ Rioja Blanco- The 2014 Vina Otano ‘Gran Reserva’ Rioja Blanco was aged for 36 months in mostly French oak (85%) before bottling. Just a touch of Garnacha Blanco (5%) blended into Viura, all sourced from very old vines, this shows off a plump mouthfeel with layers of buttercream, salted Marcona almond, white peach and an exceedingly long finish. This is exceedingly good for the price as this outstanding ‘Gran Reserva’ has another fifteen years in front of it. Drink 2021-2035- 93

2020 Vina Otano Rose- Sourced from Garnacha vines, this shows pretty red cherry and red raspberry notes with melon and minerals on the palate. Drink 2021-2024- 88

2020 Bodegas Casa La Rad ‘Solarce’ Rose- Soft, with good finesse, the ‘Solarce’ is an awesome value that has a light dusting of salinity that runs through its core. Layers of red raspberry and pomegranate seed mingle with minerals and smoky undertones on the palate. Drink 2021-2025- 90

2019 Bodegas Arrocal Ribera del Duero- Forward and juicy dark fruits with tobacco leaf mark the nose. The palate is fresh with a nice texture. Layers of roasted figs and blackberry complement the good level of acidity here. Drink 2021-2025- 90

2018 Bodegas Arrocal ‘Seleccion’ Ribera del Duero- Aged for eighteen months in oak, this shows off ripe red cherry with black currants and coffee ground undertones. The palate is dense and rich with good finesse. Layers of ripe dark fruits collide with smoke and chocolate tones. Try to give this another year in the cellar before enjoying. Drink 2023-2035- 92

2016 Bodegas Arrocal ‘Angel’ Ribera del Duero- The 2016 ‘Angel’ was aged for 20 months in French oak before bottling. Toasted dates, chocolate covered espresso bean and tar all fill the nose. The palate shows a soft mouthfeel creating a pillowy effect. A deep combination of red and dark fruits collide with tobacco leaf, chocolate, and leather all combine on the palate. With good finesse and weight, this beautiful wine has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2038- 93

2020 Isaac Fernandez ‘Egeo’ Rueda- Made from 100% Verdejo grapes, the ‘Egeo’ entices with its soft mouthfeel. Ripe necatarine, Japanese pear, wet stone, baking spices and shades of Macadamia nut and lemon zest dusted sourdough bread all entice on the palate. A serious value, with a great combination of acidity and salinity, enjoy this fantastic Rueda over the next five years. Drink 2021-2026- 91

2020 Isaac Fernandez ‘Bovale’ Rose- Sourced rom the Utel-Requena D.O.P. this Bobal based Rose shows light red fruits that dance with tiled soils and salty undertones. Drink 2021-2024- 88 

2019 Isaac Fernandez ‘Rios de Tinta’ Ribera del Duero- the ‘Rios de Tinta’ shows forward red and dark fruits with menthol and sage undertones. Fresh and medium-bodied, enjoy this effort over the next five plus years. Drink 2021-2026- 90

2019 Isaac Fernandez ‘Finca la Mata’ Ribera del Duero- This Crianza style saw eight months of oak aging prior to bottling. Damp earth and peat moss alongside chocolate and coffee ground flavors greet you with huckleberry tones. Drink 2021-2027- 90

2017 Elias Mora ‘Descarte’ Toro- Sourced from 40 year old vines, this smells rich of tobacco, dusty soils and chocolate once on the nose. The palate is fresh and vibrant with great acidity. Ripe dark currants mingle with blackberry and dark chocolate shavings on the palate. Drink 2021-2028- 91

2018 Elias Mora ‘Vinas’ Toro- Aged for six months in American oak, the ‘Vinas’ exudes a fresh and vibrant style of Toro touches on toasty oak that wraps around smoky minerals, sage, black currants and chocolate covered Arabica bean flavors. Dense and chewy, with firm tannins, this has another decade or more to go. Drink 2021-2031- 91

2017 Elias Mora ‘Crianza’ toro- Sourced from 50 year old vines, the 2017 ‘Crianza’ this was aged for 12 months in 50% new American oak before bottling. Deep dark fruits mingle with cchoalate covered red cherry, black tea, toasty oak and exotic spices on the palate. Drink 2021-2033- 92

2015 Elias Mora ‘Gran’ Toro- Deeply hued and sourced from 80 year old vines in the Senda del Lobo Vineyard, the ‘Gran’ Toro exudes class with its pillowy texture. A massive wall of red and dark fruits collide with espresso bean, huckleberry compote, leather and tilled soils on the palate. The length and generous mouthfeel add to the enjoyment here, as this has another two decades of life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2038- 94

2018 Bodega San Roman ‘Prima’ Toro- The 2018 ‘Prima’ exudes class with its generous mouthfeel, toasty oak and dark fruit, espressos bean and chocolate flavors. Fresh with good viscosity, this has another ten years ahead of it. This is seriously good value. Drink 2021-2031- 90

2017 Bodegas San Roman Toro- The 2017 Bodegas San Roman is a monumental effort that is sourced from o60-100 year old vines set on sand, clay and gravel. Aged for 24 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels, this shows toasty oak with ripe blueberry, loamy soils, black tea, Asian spices and dark chocolate covered huckleberry aromas. The palate is pillowy and seamless, with a great beam of salinity and marvelous length. Deft and light ion its feet despite its massive core of black and blue fruits, this glorious wine has twenty years or more to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2040- 95

2018 Bodegas San Roman Toro- The 2018 Bodegas San Roman Toro comes off slightly more dense and hedonistic than the 2017 release — but every bit as good. Sourced from very old ungrafted vines, the Toro shows off serious aromatic range from graphite and tilled soils to blackberry cordial, mocha, creosote and Turkish coffee tones that sing in unison. The palate is silky and extremely elegant with a great viscosity and tension. Layers of intense cassis, ripe figs and blueberry compote combine with smoky minerals, leather, coffee grounds and tar with a dusting of salinity. The long finish lingers. Exceedingly good even at the three year mark, this is one for the cellar. Be sure to give this at least a two hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2021-2040- 95

Adelsheim

Today we share one of the historic estates in Oregon that is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. It is just remarkable that this Chehalem Mountain estate was founded back in 1971. Visionary David Adelsheim had previously worked in Beaune as well as The Eyrie Vineyards before starting his own winery in Oregon. Having spent time in Burgundy, he saw the potential for producing Pinot Noir in Oregon. Today Adelsheim now owns nearly 200 acres of land, with 180 acres of vineyards as they produce a brilliant range of wines — from Rose to stony Pinot Noir. Vineyard sites range from high elevation to low elevation, as well as volcanic and sedimentary soils. 

I’ve had the chance to visit with their talented head winemaker, Gina Hennen, several times, who has been at the Adelsheim helm for more than ten years. Gina previously worked as semiconductor engineer for seven years in both Oregon and Dublin, Ireland. A former graduate of Reed College, Gina knew that her roots were in the Pacific Northwest and found her calling in winemaking.

I adored the new wines and was very impressed with her 2019 Adelshieim ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay (OB, 91) which is downright awesome stuff for the price. Even better is the rich and viscous 2017 Adelsheim ‘Staking Claim’ Chardonnay (OB, 93). I was really impressed by her 2018 Adelsheim ‘Ribbon Springs Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which is very pretty with its ripe red fruits and earthy tones. Learn more about these beautiful new releases at http://www.adelsheim.com Here are the excellent new release wines by Adelsheim. 

2019 Adelsheim ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay- Right away a whiff of nectarine peel with baking spices entices as sourdough bread undertones add to the intrigue. The palate is soft and fresh with good density and finesse. Layers of lemon zest and French bread combine with nutty undertones on the palate. Drink 2021-2026- 91

2018 Adelshiem ‘Ribbon Springs Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Located in the Ribbon Ridge AVA, this site is the largest of Adelsheim’s estate vineyards. Ripe apricot tones mingle with starfruit and suggestions of peat moss and salted almond on the nose. The palate is plenty of finesse and weight with Meyer lemon zest dusted sourdough bread and plenty of salty and savory tones with excellent length. Glorious now, this has another eight to ten years of life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2018 Adelsheim ‘Staking Claim’ Chardonnay- Sourced from the Chehalem Mountains AVA, the 2018 ‘Staking Claim’ shows intense honeysuckle notes aromatically with ginger, baking spices and suggestions of Japanese pear. The palate is soft and refined with good length and viscosity. Layers of ripe citrus fruits collide with salted pear, minerals and smoky undertones. This is highly refined stuff that has another ten years to go. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2019 Adelsheim ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir is a beautiful effort from this storied estate. Once on the nose this takes on layers of tart red fruits and citrus rind undertones alongside smoky and salty accents. The palate is soft, displaying lighter to medium-bodied red cherry and pomegranate seed flavors alongside shades of blood orange zest and salty tilled soils. While obviously not a dense wine, this has gobs of finesse and shows really good value in what was a for many a challenging vintage for Oregon Pinot Noir.Drink 2021-2027- 91

2018 Adelsheim ‘Calkins Lane Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Calkins Lane Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was aged in 31% new French oak barrels for ten months before bottling in August 2019. The wine is comprised of mostly Dijon clones 667 and 115 with a touch of clone 777. Rich dark fruits and exotic spices mark the nose alongside shades of Shitake mushroom and pine needles. The palate is dense and plush with great tension and flavor density. Ripe dark fruits collide with red currants, orange rind and earthy undertones. Very refined even at the three year mark, this has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2038- 93

2018 Adelsheim ‘Ribbon Springs Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Ribbon Springs Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a fantastic new effort that collects momentum with its combination of weight and verve. Showing a much more red fruit profile than the ‘Calkins Lane’ bottling, the wine unveils salty red fruits alongside kumquat zest, smoke and shades of cardamom on the palate. This is really elegant Pinot Noir that beautifully showcases the AVA. Drink 2021-2038- 93

2016 Adelsheim ‘Breaking Ground’ Pinot Noir- Considerably older than the other single vineyard Pinot Noirs, this 2016 bottling was aged for only eleven months in 29% French oak barrels but has seen extensive time in the bottle. Sourced from a range of soil types, the wine shows off pretty red florals and red currants alongside peat moss and wild mushroom accents on the nose. The palate is beautifully textured with a great combination of red and dark fruits. The impressive length really adds to the enjoyment here. Drink 2021-2038- 94

Goodfellow Family Wines

Marcus Goodfellow of Goodfellow Family Cellars crafts some really outstanding wines. These are wines that have great terroir but also depth and richness even in challenging vintages. What was initially founded in 2002 as Matello Winery, Goodfellow sources from some great vineyards in the Willamette Valley including the Durant Vineyard in the Dundee Hills AVA. Marcus Goodfellow, grew up on a Douglas Fir tree farm in Oregon and worked his first harvest at Evesham Wood in 2002. He had a wonderful wine mentor in famed Cristom winemaker, Steve Doerner, as his attention to detail is apparent in the glass. The wines are also all exceedingly well-priced.

2019 was not the easiest vintage with major challenges at harvest. I loved Marcus’s new Chardonnay bottlings. An awesome wine for the price, the 2019 Goodfellow ‘Whistling Ridge’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which is jam packed full of acidity and shows brilliant saliniity.  I loved what he did with the 2019 Goodfellow ‘Durant Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which might not be as intensely concentrated than the 2018 edition but has insanely good length, finesse and range. Do not miss out on these new gorgeous Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines by Goodfellow. Learn more about these beautiful new releases at https://goodfellowfamilycellars.com Here are the great new wines by Goodfellow. 

2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Whistling Ridge’ Pinot Gris- The sour green apple tones and freshness of the wine offers plenty of appeal as salty and nutty undertones all come together really well on the palate. What a killer foil for shellfish here. Drink 2021-2024- 91

2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Whistling Ridge’ Chardonnay- The 2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Whistling Ridge’ Chardonnay shows bright green apple and lemon zest flavors alongside a bright beam of tension and saline undertones. Really good right now, this has another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Richard’s Cuvee’ Chardonnay- Sourced from the ‘Whistling Ridge Vineyard’ in the Ribbon Ridge AVA, the wine showcases hazelnut and lime zest aromas alongside sourdough bread and flinty undertones that all take shape in the glass. The palate reveals an insanely good texture with loads of minerals and lemon oil flavors alongside salted French bread and shades of Macadamia nut and mango on the palate. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Ripe melon and orchard fruits combine with wet stone and wild mushroom aromas. The palate is beautifully textured with great finesse and a light dusting of salinity. Delightful even at the two year mark, this has another decade or more to go considering its weight and bright sense of acidity. While really intense with its citrus fruits, the wine shows wonderful balance and weight. Drink 2021-2033- 93 

2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Durant Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Showing a Chablis-like brightness, the 2019 ‘Durant Vineyard’ exhibits lemon oil and honeysuckle water tones alongside green melon and Pink Lady apple on the palate. Lighter cream and flinty tones add to the enjoyment here. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Pumphouse Block’ Pinot Noir-The 2019 ‘Pumphouse Block’ Pinot Noir is sourced from the famed ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard.’ The nose screams terroir with salty and smoky tones alongside ripe redcurrant and tobacco accents. The palate might not have the density of other vintages but has plenty of tart red fruits alongside salty tilled earth, orange zest, wild mushroom and a light dusting of white pepper. This tastes a bit like a top Volnay. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Fir Crest Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Set in the Coast Range, the ‘Fir Crest Vineyard’ is a dry-farmed and remote site in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. The palate is very refined and elegant with dense red fruits that combine with smoke, pine needles, blood orange zest and salty undertones. With a silky mouthfeel and great length, this has another fifteen years to go. Drink 2021-2036- 93

2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Heritage No. 16’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Heritage No. 16’ was sourced from the ‘Lewman Vineyard’ located in the western portion of the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. Once on the nose this takes on beautiful red rose petals and cran-orange aromas alongside salty undertones. The palate is soft and round with a generous mouthfeel and gobs of mouth-watering acidity. Layers of very pure red fruits collide with white truffle, charcuterie, peat moss and a light dusting of salt and white pepper. Seriously refined, this beautiful wine will cellar well for another fifteen years. Drink 2021-2036- 93

2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Durant’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Durant Vineyard’ is a famed site atop the Dundee Hills. Lavender with a great combination of red and dark fruits mark the nose with earthy undertones. The palate is plush and soft with pomegranate seed and red cherry combining with smoldering stones, orange zest and shades of black truffle. Complex and delicious, this has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2038- 93

2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Oracle’ Pinot Noir-The 2019 ‘Oracle Vineyard’ is set at more than 6500 feet in the Dundee Hills. The nose is gorgeous with cinnamon and clove infused red and dark fruits alongside shades of salted wild mushroom. The palate is dense and chewy with a great veil of salinity and tension that runs through the core of red and dark fruits. This is really impressive stuff even in its youth. Drink 2021-2038- 94

2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘House Block’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘House Block’ shows off pretty red florals alongside savory and salty tones aromatically. The palate is very soft and refined, as this elegant wine unveils very pretty rose water, red currant, red cherry and guava fruit flavors, with salty and damp earth undertones. Very delicate on the mid-palate, this dazzles with its mouthfeel and bright sense of acidity. Complex and delicious even at the two year mark, enjoy this beauty over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2021-2035- 93

2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Long Acre’ Pinot Noir- The translucent colored ‘Long Acre’ Pinot Noir is a limited production bottling from this dry-farmed site in the Ribbon Ridge AVA. The palate is soft and refined with a great veil of tension. Very delicate red fruits collide with minerals, wet stone and kumquat zest accents. The marvelous length adds to the drinking enjoyment here. Drink 2021-2036- 93

Diamond Creek

A famed Napa house that needs little introduction, Diamond Creek was purchased by Louis Roederer in 2020 in a very exciting development. It will be really interesting to see how that influences production. What began back in  1967 with the purchased of land, The Brounsteins created both the first single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon wine as well as the first $100 bottle of wine from Napa. What was quite novel for the period of time, the Brounsteins created three different wines to show each individual soil type in the vineyard which were all produced separately. 

Wines are crafted in an almost anti-Napa approach, looking for good richness but a focus on terroir, rather than fruit qualities. Wines from this estate show remarkable non-fruit character and I have certainly enjoyed many of these in my collection over the years. The new wines exude class across the board. Coming from the electric 2018 vintage, I was enamored by the 2018 Diamond Creek ‘Volcanic Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 96) which is dense and shows plenty of loamy terroir notes alongside intense non-fruit character. All three of these releases are simply electric. Learn more about this famed estate at https://www.diamondcreekvineyards.com and here are my notes on the new 2018 Diamond Creek releases. 

2018 Diamond Creek ‘Volcanic Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A killer blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12.5% Merlot, 8.7% Malbec and 2.8% Petit Verdot, the 2018 ‘Volcanic Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows off a gorgeous bouquet after some air. The loamy terroir tones impress alongside dark currant cordial, mocha and tar notes that all meld in the glass. The palate is soft, elegant and highly refined. Rich dark fruits parade with chocolate covered espresso bean, tilled soils and shades of creosote on the palate. Really just an infant now, this rich and finesse-driven Cabernet Sauvignon has decades of life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2040- 96

2018 Diamond Creek ‘Gravelly Meadow’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘Gravelly Meadow’ Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from a cooler microclimate on the Diamond Creek estate, set on pebbly, porous brown soils. Ripe blackberries and black cherry tones combine with espresso bean, and damp earthy tones on the nose. The palate is layered and voluptuous with incredible tension and flavor density. Rich dark fruits collide with Turkish coffee, blueberry cordial and graphite on the palate. This truly extraordinary, well-balanced and dense effort will have a very long life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2040- 96

2018 Diamond Creek ‘Red Rock Terrace’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The Diamond Creek ‘Red Rock Terrace’ is a sensational effort form the 2018 vintage. A blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 4.5% Malbec and 4.5% Petit Verdot, this shows off exotic spices woven together with ripe black plum, cassis and coffee grounds on this gorgeous bouquet. The palate shows off a silky texture with plenty of dense dark fruits that mingle with milk chocolate, tar and anise tones on the palate. Gorgeous now to savor, this has another fifteen plus years to go. Drink 2022-2038- 95

Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Vertical Tasting

Before I was formally reviewing wines, I saw great value in Washington wines. Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ has been a pillar of value since I first tasted this wine back in 2002. I have always been impressed with wineries that offer their products at very reasonable prices, regardless of financial conditions. While some have consistently raised their prices, Dunham Cellars has kept their prices very moderate over the past fifteen years, giving consumers a very polished product at a reasonable price.

For years I purchased the ‘Trutina’ for my personal collection as I always felt this wine over-delivered on quality for the price. Friends and I will fondly recall regularly tasting the 2006 and 2007 ‘Trutina’ wines which were outstanding upon release. About a week ago I was handed the opportunity to revisit every vintage of Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ with their general manager John Blair and their winemaker Rob Campisi. We all took a very deliberate approach as we moved from wine to wine.

The biggest surprise by far was how the first three wines showed. Vintages 1998-2000 were seriously good, with the 1999 Dunham Cellars (Trey Marie) ‘Trutina’ (OB, 91) shining the most brightly now at the twenty-two year mark. I was really impressed with the 2002 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ (OB, 92) which has plenty of dense dark fruits and good richness. I love wines from 2002 and this wine was aging gracefully and still had another five plus years left. One surprise was the 2008 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ (OB, 92) which was made with a very large portion of Syrah blended in but had great finesse and salty undertones. No doubt another surprise was the 2010 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ (OB, 92) which is still humming away while some other wines from this vintage seem to be already at peak or past their prime. One of the best wines I had from the tasting is the 2016 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ (OB, 93) which is vibrant now at the five year mark. I love the moving parts of this wine, showing earthy tones that combine with the rich dark fruits and soft mouthfeel. 

This was just an extraordinary way to go back in time and recall some of the great value red wines made in their time. Learn more about ‘Trutina’ or other Dunham wines at dunhamcellars.com and here are my tasting notes from every vintage of Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina.’

1998 Dunham Cellars (Trey Marie) ’Trutina’ Red Wine-Dark peat most with tobacco tones alongside lighter fruits mark the nose. The palate is fresh and linear as the light red fruits make this really sing. This is beautifully evolved wine. Drink 2021-2025- 90

1999 Dunham Cellars (Trey Marie) ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- Fresh and focused, this 1999 is very youthful with still maintaining a core of dark fruits. Alight dusting of salinity ages to the enjoyment. Drink 2021-2025- 91

2000 Dunham Cellars (Trey Marie) ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- Considering the challenges faced in the vintage, thesis a pretty impressive showing with light saline tones alongside red currants, bandaid, cedar, cigar box, and peat moss undertones. This is impressive stuff. Drink 2021-2024- 90

2001 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red WIne- This is somewhat disjointed but shows a rich core of dark fruits with chocolate tones. Drink 2021-2024- 88

2002 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- The nose here is decadent with ripe figs, chocolate and tobacco alongside blackberry compote. The palate is full-bodied and decadent with great balance and acidity. This is just beautiful stuff right now. Drink 2021-2026- 92

2003 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- The 2003 ‘Trutina’ is a glorious showing with intense chocolate and cassis notes alongside espresso bean. The sense of salinity is great here. Drink 2021-2026- 92

2004 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- A large portion of Merlot (59%) as this shows off rich dark currants and dark kirsch notes with sweet pipe tobacco and chocolate tones all impress. Drink 2021-2024- 90

2005 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- Equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (41% each), the 2005 shows a beautiful bouquet with cocoa powder and anise on the nose. The palate is fresh, salty and savory with lighter red fruits that dance with minerals. This is saline-infused, delicious wine that is still full of life. Drink 2021-2027-91

2006 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine-The 2006 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine is showing nicely right now. Soft and round, this shows a nice mouthfeel with black currants and blackberry compote flavors. A touch straightforward, yet very tasty this won’t improve but is gorgeous right now. Drink 2021-2026- 91

2007 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- The 2007 ‘Trutina’ is soft and a touch lean with blackberry and coffee ground flavors. Drink now. Drink 2021-2025- 90

2008 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- this has equal parts of Cabernet and Syrah blended in (42% each). The Syrah is really shining here with chocolate, sagebrush and coffee ground aromatics that all take shape in the glass. The palate is soft and salty with a great savory edge. Black currants combine with salted meats, menthol, leather, blackberry compote and really good finesse. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2009 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- The 2009 ‘Trutina’ shows good fresh sage and underbrush notes on the nose alongside wild blackberry and peat moss aromas. The palate is finesse-driven with blackberry, black cherry and sage tones. This still has a long way to go. Drink 2021-2027- 91

2010 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- This colder vintage wine has a good amount of Merlot blended in (63%). Mostly Lewis Vineyard fruit, this really smells Merlot dominant with chocolate covered cherry, coffee grounds and sagebrush. This shows good flavor density and weight considering the vintage. This is very Washington meets St. Estefe. Drink 2021-2027- 92

2011 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- The 2011 really shows the coolness of the vintage. A touch lean and linear, this shows lighter dark fruits with coffee ground flavors. Drink 2021-2023- 89

2012 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- The 2012 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine is a glorious wine. The wine shows good flavor density with cassis, anise, black currants and black florals. The almost weightless quality mid-palate really makes this sing. This is very pretty stuff that is truly in balance and has a longways to go. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2013 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- The 2013 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine is a sensational effort at the eight year mark. Tar, tobacco and black currants meld with dark chocolate covered red cherry on the palate. Black tea and stony accents all impress and add to the enjoyment, with good length. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2014 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- Large parts Merlot (44%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (37%) this shows amazing balance with a great core of roasted figs, espresso bean and dark currant jelly. The wine shows good weight and finesse, as this beautiful wine is just starting to hit is stride. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2015 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- 54% Cabernet with smaller parts Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, the 2015 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine shows off ripe dark currants with mocha and tar tones. This shows good finesse but shows less flavor density than the 2014. Drink 2021-2028- 91

2016 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- Sagebrush with dark currants, espresso bean and milk chocolate tones all take shape in the glass. Dense and chewy, with a great sense of mouthfeel, this is beautiful wine right now. This has at least another ten years to go. Drink 2021-2031- 93

Corliss Estate

Located right as you enter the downtown area of Walla Walla, Corliss is an ultra-premium producer of red and white wines founded in 1999 by Michael and Lori Corliss. Over the years Mike Corliss has bought vineyard land throughout the state, including more holdings on Red Mountain. Corliss has been met with some serious critical acclaim since their first release in 2008. I love how these wines age, as I’ve had the chance to try their 2006 and 2008 red wines over the past year and I can absolutely say that they are still alive and kicking even now at fifteen years.

As times evolve Corliss is now producing nearly 100% estate fruit sourced other than a touch of Syrah being sourced from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard in the Royal Slope AVA. For the 2017 vintage they aged their Bordeaux wines for a touch less to keep more freshness in the wines. The winemaking team has mentioned that they have been working hard to make the Syrah more divergent from the Bordeaux style wines. I adored the 2017 Corliss Estate Syrah (OB, 95) which is dense and brooding with silky tannins and a soft and generous mouthfeel. Even better is the incredible 2017 Corliss Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 97) which is seamless, silky wine that has decades of life in front of it. Learn more about these incredible wines at corlissestate.com and here are my notes on the pre-release 2017s by Corliss. 

2017 Corliss Estate Syrah- The 2017 Corliss Estate Syrah is a dense and exotic wine that benefits from some air in the decanter. Once aroused this evokes pretty red and black florals alongside smoked brisket with white pepper dusted bacon and blackberry pie as well as black cherry cordial aromas that all meld in the glass. The palate is dense and chewy with great viscosity. With a few hours of air this becomes even more dense and decadent with massive blue and black fruits alongside creosote, minerals and black olives. This is sinfully good even in its youth but try to resist this slumbering giant for another year or two. Drink 2022-2037- 95

2017 Corliss Estate Red Wine-While the 2016 Red Wine was a Cabernet Franc dominant blend, the 2017 is a 100% Red Mountain AVA wine that is Cabernet Sauvignon dominant. However, the Cabernet Franc shows its stride here particularly with the herbal aromatics adding to the complexity as creme de violette, anise, cassis aromas mingle with shades of red bell pepper, mocha and tar accents on this highly evocative bouquet. The palate is pillowy and downright weightless with a gorgeous combination of black and blue fruits alongside graphite, stony minerals and firm tannins. This is very seamless and precise wine throughout the drinking experience. Try to give this sleeping beauty at least another two years before consuming. Drink 2023-2044- 96

2017 Corliss Estate Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Corliss Cabernet Sauvignon is an extraordinary wine that is a hedonistic monster right now. Comprised of100% estate fruit from Red Mountain, this shows amazing aromatic range from scorched earth to black tea and exotic spices alongside blackberry cobbler and dark chocolate covered espresso bean. The palate is weightless and seamless  with glorious length and downright sensational flavor density. Firm tannins hold everything beautifully in place. This just exceptional wine that will cellar well for many decades to come. Drink 2024-2045- 97

Reynvaan 2019 Viognier

Tasting with Matt Reynvaan last week I couldn’t overcome my excitement for his new wine. “This might just be the best white wine you have ever made,” I commented. As I tasted the 2019 ‘In The Rocks’ Viognier, I was stuck by not only the viscosity and tension of the wine but beautiful length and harmonious bent the wine takes you through. It is seamless, elegant wine that literally screams terroir.

It is no surprise that Matt crafts some of the best white wines in the Pacific Northwest. He has some serious pedigree, having helped make wines at Chateau Haut Smith-Lafitte — producer of some of the finest Bordeaux blanc on this planet. A limited production winery founded by Mike and Gale Reynvaan, Reynvaan Family Vineyards focuses on producing wines from their estate vineyards, both in the Walla Walla Rocks region and their ‘Foothills Vineyard’ set at roughly 1600 feet near their family home in the Bluewood Mountains. Matt Reynvaan, is making some of the best wines in Washington state. I am enamored by what he produces from these two outstanding vineyards. For years I have been massively struck by his ‘Foothills Reserve’ Syrah which is a wine unlike any other in North America. As I have stated before, wines from both vineyards show terroir, purity, elegance and range that rivals anything in North America.

2019 was generally a kind vintage for white wines, devoid of any major heat spikes and a relatively even growing season until a freeze rocked much of Washington in early to mid-October. Matt had mentioned that his wines had been picked before the freeze, so that did not impact his wines.I was blown away with the two new white wines that he has produced both from the 2019 vintage. They’re both exquisite and each their own. The 2019 Reynvaan ‘In The Rocks’ Viognier (OB, 96) shows a stony edge and is silky, elegant and downright seamless. The 2019 Reynvaan ‘Foothills In The Sun Vineyard’ Viognier (OB, 95) is less stony and all about opulence with a silky texture and a finish that lasts forever. Put both of these bottlings up against the best of their kind in North America. Learn more about these amazing wines at https://www.reynvaanfamilyvineyards.com Here the exciting 2019 Viognier wines by Reynvaan Family Vineyards 

2019 Reynvaan ‘In The Rocks’ Viognier- Stony, savory, salty and downright profound, the 2019 ‘In The Rocks’ Viognier is a masterful effort by Matt Reyvaan. Right away a whiff of wet stone aromas catch your attention as saline drenched pear, apricot, banana and shades of nectarine all meld in the glass. The palate is soft and seamless, as the wine effortlessly glides throughout the drinking experience. This actually comes off more Corton-Charlemagne than Condriueu, with the lower oak influence but still showing plenty of weight and gobs of finesse alongside kumquat rind, orange zest, honeydew melon and wet slate flavors. This is up there with any of the best white wines of the Pacific Northwest that I have tasted in the past year and is drinking marvelously even at the two year mark. Be sure to give this an hour of air and please serve at a warmer temperature for the wine to show its massive range of aromatics and flavors. Drink 2021-2029- 96

2019 Reynvaan ‘Foothills In The Sun Vineyard’ Viognier- A touch more unctuous and rich than the ‘In The Rocks’ bottling, the ‘Foothills In The Sun’ Viognier is a sensational new wine that is done slightly riper than its stony nephew. Once on the nose this takes on apricot jelly and white peach tones alongside shades of star jasmine and starfruit with salted Macadamia nut undertones. The palate is silky and elegant with a beautiful sense of texture and weight. Starfruit, buttercream and wet stone flavors combine with minerals, Bartlett pear and suggestions of baking spice dusted Challah bread on the palate. Be sure to give this an hour of air if enjoying now, as this also shows considerably better warmed up a bit in the glass. Drink 2021-2028- 95

Devona

I’ll fully admit that I have missed out on the glorious wines of Devona for several years. What began back in college at Oregon State University several decades ago, Devona is the brainchild of John and Molly Abbott who formerly founded famed Walla Walla house Abeja. Before starting his own winery John worked for famed sites including Pine Ridge as well as Acacia where he was exposed to making world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. He spent ten years with Canoe Ridge Vineyard and 13 years with Abeja, before founding Devona. 

Devona sources from a host of fantastic sites throughout the Pacific Northwest. While at Abeja, John had a national reputation for crafting world-class Chardonnay. His new releases from the 2018 vintages were both stellar across the board. I particularly adored his 2018 Devona ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which was texturally downright pillowy and showed great weight and range. Just as good is his sensational new 2017 Devona ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Merlot (OB, 94) which has a glorious combo of dark fruit and non-fruit character. This is a lineup that is not to be missed by any serious collector of Oregon and Washington wines. Learn more about this fantastic brand of wines at http://www.devona.net and here are my tasting notes on the glorious new Devona wines. 

2018 Devona ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Aged 25% new French oak, the 2018 Devona ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’Chardonnay shows off rich poached pear with a silky texture and wet stone character the palate. This finishes exceedingly long, as this brilliant wine is dense and polished now and has a really long way to go. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2018 Devona ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay is sourced from two great sites: Celilo and White Salmon Vineyards. The nose is super refined with ripe Japanese pear and white peach notes. Thee palate is plush and generous with ripe baking spice drenched pear and apple flavors alongside citrus rind and wet stone undertones. The finesse here considering the vintage is glorious. This is exceedingly refined stuff that is dense and has some great cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2031- 94

2018 Devona ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2015 ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir  is mostly Pommard clone wine which was roughly 25% new oak aged. Ripe dark currants collide with stony minerals and peat moss on the nose. The palate is rich and viscous with plenty of stuffing. Layers of toasty oak collide with minerals, damp earth and wild blackberry on the palate. Lithe and bright, this has fifteen years in front of it. Drink 2021-2036- 93

2018 Devona ‘Mount Richmond Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from this vineyard which is the Elk Cove estate vineyard, this showoff with huckleberry notes alongside dried herbs and serious heft with good tension. This is a downright massive wine that shows brilliantly now but is really just an infant in the bottle. Give this a two hour decant if enjoying young. Drink 2022-2040- 94

2017 Devona ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Merlot- The 2017 ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Merlot shows ripe chocolate covered cherry with sagebrush and smoky undertones on the nose. The palate is dense and shows rich dark fruits alongside, dark chocolate covered espresso bean and toasty oak on the palate. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2016 Devona ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This great Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in 85% new French oak before bottling. The wine shows a massive wall of dark fruits that collide with Turkish coffee, creme de violette and salty undertones. This is highly refined and novel Cabernet Sauvignon that is built to age. Balance, with great flavor density, this older Cabernet Sauvignon beautifully showcases the character of this famed site in the Horse Heaven Hills. Drink 2021-2040- 95

2016 Devona ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from 1972 Cabernet Sauvignon plantings that provide very small berries, this wine evokes tar, sweet pipe tobacco, sagebrush and dark cherry cordial flavors alongside a vibrant sense of minerality and firm tannins. This really packs a punch. Gorgeous now, this really has another twenty years in front of it. Drink 2021-2040- 95

2015 Devona ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This was John Abbot’s inaugural Cabernet Sauvignon release. Once on the nose this takes on sagebrush, tar and tobacco alongside a great core of dark fruits. This is dense and layered but maybe lacking a touch of complexity as the 2016 but still evokes a great core of dark fruits and coffee ground flavors. Considering the heat of the vintage this is a really good effort that has another decade to go. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2017 Devona ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon-This inky Red Mountain bottling moves to tar and scorched earth tones on the nose with espresso bean aromatics that all meld in the glass. The palate has a massive flavor density with intense black and blue fruits alongside Turkish coffee, tar and menthol undertones. This is hedonistic, yet well-structured  Cabernet Sauvignon that is drinking beautiful now and has a long way to go. Drink 2021-2042- 95

Miraval

Miraval

As we slowly defrost from not only spring but the Covid-19 pandemic, we bring you one of the iconic Rose wines from Provence. A marvelous combination of Hollywood drama and great wine, Miraval, a 1,200 acre estate in Provence, was founded by acting icons Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. Married at Miraval, Pitt and Jolie prior to their split lived there since 2008. The property boasts pine forests, olive groves, terraced hillsides, working vineyards, a private lake  as well as a moat. Much of the chateau dates back to 17th century, including 35 rooms in the main house as well as several tenant residences.The estate also contains remains of a Romanesque chapel, as well as the famed vineyard from which the Miraval Rose comes from. The recording studio at Miraval has housed some famous musicians including personal favorites Sting and The Cranberries (R.I.P. Dolores O’ Riordan). 

 Purchased in 2012 for an estimated $60 million, records indicate that in 1252 philosopher and theologian Saint Thomas Aquinas visited the Miraval estate. The vineyard itself is very large, Jean-Pierre and Francois Perrin are the iconic vintners behind this great Rose wine that produce white and rose wine from the 500 hectare property.  They produce a ton of Rose (roughly 200,000 bottles) and despite the quantity of wine produced, the quality of the wine has been apparently throughout the past five vintages. The latest vintage Rose, comes from the year of the Pitt/Jolie split and it is not clear who will own Miraval going forward. The 2020 Miraval Rose (OB, 92) might be the best edition of this wine. It is beautifully textured from the partial battonage and truly captures the art of blending. Learn more about Miraval at http://miraval-provence.com/en/ Here is the new Miraval Rose review.

2020 Miraval ‘Studio’ Rose- The 2020 ‘Studio’ is a blend of Cinsault, Grenache, Rolle and Tibouren. Wild mushroom combines with watermelon and smoky minerals on the nose. The palate is soft and beautifully textured. Layers of very delicate red fruits combine with peat moss and citrus rind tones on the palate. This is really good stuff for the price. Drink 2021-2025- 90

2020 Miraval Rose- The 2020 Miraval Rose blends Cinsault, Grenache and Rolle vines from this esteemed site set on clay & limestone at an average of 350 meters. 5% of this wine was aged in French oak and was given battonage. The resultant wine is truly outstanding particularly at a warmer temperature. Gooseberry and pomegranate seed flavors collide with minerals, tilled soils and pretty rose water and red cherry candy notes. Drink 2021-2027- 92