As I very slowly moved from one wine to the next, with each sip I thought to myself ‘wow! What a wine!’ This was just a remarkable tasting that I embarked on a few days ago, trying all of the 2018 single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon wines by Leonetti Cellars and famed winemaker Chris Figgins. ‘We have a really great team’ said Chris, when asked about the wines. Humble, thoughtful and soft-spoken, I anticipated such a response from Chris who very carefully crafted each wine to be divergent and unique from one another.
A few years back I was surprised when told that Leonetti was changing their wine program for one of the first times in decades to create their single vineyard wines. When I sat down with Chris and first tried these wines, he was grinning from ear to ear about the end product. Each vineyard in their portfolio has quite different terroir. I loved the salty tones in the 2018 Leonetti Cellar ‘Holy Roller’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 96) which for my palate is the best edition of this wine in terms of flavor density, range and finesse. This beauty is exceedingly good in its youth and unlike the other releases can be enjoyed right now following a long decant. The rest of the single vineyard wines will require some patience just as Leonetti wines always do. I was floored by the 2018 Leonetti Cellar ‘Loess’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 97) which too I find to be the best edition of this wine since it has been made. Again, the flavor density and intensity of the wine is exemplary, as this finishes exceedingly long. Try to resist this beauty for several more years. Learn more about these sensational new wines at leonetticellar.com and here are my tasting notes from the glorious new 2018 Leonetti Cellar single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon wines.
2018 Leonetti Cellar ‘Holy Roller’ Cabernet Sauvignon-The ‘Holy Roller Vineyard’ is set in the Walla Walla Rocks District as vines are set at roughly 950 feet on cobblestones and loam. Salt dusted black fruits mark the nose with shades of sagebrush, leather and dusty soils. The palate is silky and vibrant with a massive amount of salinity and stony character that makes this entirely different than anything you will find in this region. The depth and concentration is seriously good here. Black currants and black cherry compote flavors mingle with chocolate and garrigue notes on the palate. Exceedingly good even now at the three year mark, this will cellar well for at least another fifteen years. Be sure to give this at least two hours in the decanter if enjoying now. Drink 2023-2040- 96
2018 Leonetti Cellar ‘Loess’ Cabernet Sauvignon- As the name suggests, the ‘Loess Vineyard’ is located on the Leonetti Estate and is set on Walla Walla Silt Loam known as Loess soils. Deeply concentrated and intense once in the glass, heady dark fruit aromas greet you with tobacco leaf, milk chocolate covered cherry and shades of tar. The palate is extremely refined and elegant with a massive flavor density and rich texture. While obviously overt and hedonistic, the verve and experience of acidity is really good. Roasted dates, black currants and espresso bean flavors collide with minerals, smoke and fresh sage on the palate. The glorious length adds to the enjoyment, as this exceptional new wine really needs a few more years of bottle age to reach its full potential. Drink 2024-2045- 97
2018 Leonetti Cellar ‘Serra Pedace’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Serra Pedace Vineyard’ is a high elevation site that was named after the Leonetti ancestors Frank and Rose Leonetti’s hometown in Calabria, Italy. Anise, tar and black licorice notes combine with suggestions of black cherry syrup on the nose. The palate shows good freshness and serious flavor density. Creme de cassis and creme de violette flavors meld well with minerals, sweet pipe tobacco, creosote and shades of espresso grounds on the palate. This is a big Cabernet Sauvignon in terms of weight but while extremely generous, the focus and precision in the winemaking is really impressive. This is drinking beautifully even in its youth but try to resist this beauty for at least a few more years if you can. Drink 2024-2045- 98
2018 Leonetti Cellar ‘Mill Creek Upland’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Set in the foothills of the Blue Mountains at roughly 1500 feet, the ‘Mill Creek Upland Vineyard’ is set on Onyx Silt Loam soils and is entirely planted to Bordeaux varietals. Once on the nose this takes on layers of black tea, anise and baking spices woven together with creme de cassis tones and Turkish coffee. The palate is dense and plush, unveiling a downright pillowy texture. Lush dark currants collide with exotic spices, mocha, tar and anise flavors on the palate with freshly tilled soil undertones. Fresh and vibrant, with gobs of acidity and plenty of stuffing, this beautiful wine will provide drinking enjoyment for decades to come. Drink 2024-2045- 97