I’ll fully admit that I have missed out on the glorious wines of Devona for several years. What began back in college at Oregon State University several decades ago, Devona is the brainchild of John and Molly Abbott who formerly founded famed Walla Walla house Abeja. Before starting his own winery John worked for famed sites including Pine Ridge as well as Acacia where he was exposed to making world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. He spent ten years with Canoe Ridge Vineyard and 13 years with Abeja, before founding Devona.
Devona sources from a host of fantastic sites throughout the Pacific Northwest. While at Abeja, John had a national reputation for crafting world-class Chardonnay. His new releases from the 2018 vintages were both stellar across the board. I particularly adored his 2018 Devona ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which was texturally downright pillowy and showed great weight and range. Just as good is his sensational new 2017 Devona ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Merlot (OB, 94) which has a glorious combo of dark fruit and non-fruit character. This is a lineup that is not to be missed by any serious collector of Oregon and Washington wines. Learn more about this fantastic brand of wines at http://www.devona.net and here are my tasting notes on the glorious new Devona wines.
2018 Devona ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Aged 25% new French oak, the 2018 Devona ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’Chardonnay shows off rich poached pear with a silky texture and wet stone character the palate. This finishes exceedingly long, as this brilliant wine is dense and polished now and has a really long way to go. Drink 2021-2033- 93
2018 Devona ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay is sourced from two great sites: Celilo and White Salmon Vineyards. The nose is super refined with ripe Japanese pear and white peach notes. Thee palate is plush and generous with ripe baking spice drenched pear and apple flavors alongside citrus rind and wet stone undertones. The finesse here considering the vintage is glorious. This is exceedingly refined stuff that is dense and has some great cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2031- 94
2018 Devona ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2015 ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is mostly Pommard clone wine which was roughly 25% new oak aged. Ripe dark currants collide with stony minerals and peat moss on the nose. The palate is rich and viscous with plenty of stuffing. Layers of toasty oak collide with minerals, damp earth and wild blackberry on the palate. Lithe and bright, this has fifteen years in front of it. Drink 2021-2036- 93
2018 Devona ‘Mount Richmond Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from this vineyard which is the Elk Cove estate vineyard, this showoff with huckleberry notes alongside dried herbs and serious heft with good tension. This is a downright massive wine that shows brilliantly now but is really just an infant in the bottle. Give this a two hour decant if enjoying young. Drink 2022-2040- 94
2017 Devona ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Merlot- The 2017 ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Merlot shows ripe chocolate covered cherry with sagebrush and smoky undertones on the nose. The palate is dense and shows rich dark fruits alongside, dark chocolate covered espresso bean and toasty oak on the palate. Drink 2021-2035- 94
2016 Devona ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This great Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in 85% new French oak before bottling. The wine shows a massive wall of dark fruits that collide with Turkish coffee, creme de violette and salty undertones. This is highly refined and novel Cabernet Sauvignon that is built to age. Balance, with great flavor density, this older Cabernet Sauvignon beautifully showcases the character of this famed site in the Horse Heaven Hills. Drink 2021-2040- 95
2016 Devona ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from 1972 Cabernet Sauvignon plantings that provide very small berries, this wine evokes tar, sweet pipe tobacco, sagebrush and dark cherry cordial flavors alongside a vibrant sense of minerality and firm tannins. This really packs a punch. Gorgeous now, this really has another twenty years in front of it. Drink 2021-2040- 95
2015 Devona ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This was John Abbot’s inaugural Cabernet Sauvignon release. Once on the nose this takes on sagebrush, tar and tobacco alongside a great core of dark fruits. This is dense and layered but maybe lacking a touch of complexity as the 2016 but still evokes a great core of dark fruits and coffee ground flavors. Considering the heat of the vintage this is a really good effort that has another decade to go. Drink 2021-2031- 92
2017 Devona ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon-This inky Red Mountain bottling moves to tar and scorched earth tones on the nose with espresso bean aromatics that all meld in the glass. The palate has a massive flavor density with intense black and blue fruits alongside Turkish coffee, tar and menthol undertones. This is hedonistic, yet well-structured Cabernet Sauvignon that is drinking beautiful now and has a long way to go. Drink 2021-2042- 95