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Owen Bargreen

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Great photo of Gilles Nicault and his Cote Nicault.

Cote Nicault

March 30, 2023

Cote Nicault is a story about Gilles Nicault, one of Washington’s great winemakers. His family has a history in agriculture dating back to the 1930s in Africa. Growing up Gilles was exposed to the great wines of the Rhone Valley by his father who was an enophile.

Gilles eventually decided to study winemaking and viticulture at the acclaimed University of Avignon. It was a huge move for Gilles to move to the United States and he landed in Walla Walla back in 1994, working for Woodward Canyon. Working there he realized that wines from Washington State rivaled anything in the world. He was then the first winemaker for Long Shadows Vintners in 2003, and for many years he has served as Director of Winemaking and Viticulture there.

Côte Nicault is a Rhone inspired wine that Gilles makes each year. The wine is all about balance between Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah. It is a very different wine to the Long Shadows ‘Sequel’ — one with more finesse, subtlety and nuance. I absolutely love the new 2019 Côte Nicault Red Wine (OB, 95) which is deep and concentrated with pure dark fruits and herbal accents. This beauty is already nicely evolved. Learn more about these great wine at https://www.cotenicault.com and here is the great new future release by Côte Nicault.

2019 Côte Nicault Red Wine- The 2019 Côte Nicault is a downright killer wine from this slightly cooler vintage in the Columbia Valley. The Côte Nicault blends Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah and comes off quite spicy on the nose, with white pepper dusted bacon, red currants, tobacco leaf and shades of black licorice. The palate is rich and concentrated with a great mineral backbone that holds everything together nicely. A generous combination of red and dark fruits greet you, with garrigue and blood orange zest notes, as this beauty is already singing at the four year mark. Enjoy now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2035- 95

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Here are the gorgeous new wines by Massican.

Massican

March 30, 2023

Today we share one of the most intriguing brands of the Napa Valley. It is hard to believe that Massican was founded all the way back in 2009. The brand is the brainchild of innovator and winemaker Dan Petroski, who sought to make old-world inspired white wines in the Napa Valley where Cabernet is unabashedly king. These wines continue to be affordably priced, where entry level Chardonnays in Napa command 100 dollars and sometimes more. For years Dan made world-class wines at Larkmead which rivaled some of the finest wines of the region — at a fraction of the price of cult competitors. For those who love high-acid white wines with texture, these are definitely for you. Dan has performed well regardless of vintage and even made world-class wines with the 2020 vintage.

Look to the gorgeous 2022 Massican ‘Annia’ White Wine (OB, 94) which uniquely combines Tocai Fruliano, Ribolla Gialla and Chardonnay. I don’t think you will find anything quite like this in the world. Learn more about these novel, one of a kind wines at massican.com Here are my reviews of the gorgeous new Massican wines.

2022 Massican Sauvignon Blanc- Sourced from both Sonoma and Napa, the 2022 Massican Sauvignon Blanc offers lemongrass, pink grapefruit blossom and shades of cantaloupe on the nose. The palate is very fresh and lithe with a polished texture and marvelous sense of weight. The underlying tension and loads of mouth-watering acidity created from the citrus fruits really make this wine sing. Enjoy now and over the next seven plus years. Drink 2023-2030- 94

2022 Massican ‘Gemina’ White Wine- The 2022 ‘Gemina’ is a unique blend of 62% Greco with the remainder Falanghina. The name is inspired by an ancient varietal that dates back to the first century AD, called Aminea Gemina. Ripe pear, vanilla cream and shades of lychee mark the nose, with nutty undertones. The palate shows lovely weight and a downright oily texture. Layers of pretty lemon oil and melon fruits collide with suggestions of baking spices on the palate. Drink 2023-2030- 94

2022 Massican ‘Annia’ White WIne- The 2022 ‘Annia’ is one of the unique white wines made in Napa. A blend of Ribolla Galla, Tocai Friulano and Chardonnay, this delivers a silky smooth texture once on the mouth. Full-bodied, yet very lithe and polished, ripe banana and peach pit combine with salted Macadamia nut on the palate. Complex and novel, this is a delight to enjoy now and over the next seven plus years. Drink 2023-2030- 94

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Matthias Pippig has crafted another incredible set of new wines by Sanguis.

Sanguis

March 29, 2023

One of the truly great wineries in the Santa Barbara area, Sanguis is the brainchild of winemaker Matthias Pippig. For years I have admired these wines that tend to literally scream terroir. The wines are made with great concentration and underlying verve. Speaking with Matthias over Zoom, we tasted each of his new wines. In terms of vintages, Matthias loved the wines made in 2019. “2019 was definitely a conducive vintage for us” he said.  “I keep notes but I like to remember things that stuck out. 2019 didn’t have anything like that and to me those are the great vintages because the one things that wines want are the consistency. The heat beating can be an issue with beating the prettiness out of the grapes. Everything shuts down with that.”

He continued “We work with vineyards now where we don’t have huge pressure to pick before we really want to. I like to pick on the early side so that we have alcohol levels that are in the low 14s. But when we made Syrah from places like Happy Canyon or Ballard Canyon it gets really hot there and there are times when we need to pick. We grow Syrah mostly in the Santa Rita Hills now and also at the base of Ballard Canyon now and we don’t have that pressure for the most part.”

Pippig did not notice any smoke influence in his 2020 wines. I certainly did not notice any in the scintillating 2020 Sanguis ‘Insouciance’ Rose (OB, 95) which is essentially masquerading as a red wine. It is dense, chewy and one of a kind that I think you will admire. One of the great Santa Barbara County Chrdonnays that I have tasted in the past year is the 2019 Sanguis ‘Loner the Golden Hour’ Chardonnay (OB, 96) which shows insane salty terror and a minute long finish.  Even better was the incredible 2019 Sanguis ‘1/1’ Grenache (OB, 97) which offers everything you want in a Grenache from this region. Very salty, savory and jam-packed full of bright fruits, this is a very geeky but also very delicious rendition of this varietal. Learn more about these incredible wines at sanguiswine.com and here are my reviews of the new wines by Sanguis.

2019 Sanguis ‘Loner the Golden Hour’ Chardonnaay- Sourced from the John Sebastiano vineyard, the wine utilizes one Wente clone block at the top of the hill at one thousand feet, as well as a block utilizing clone 76. This was stored in neutral oak puncheons before bottling, as the wine shows some very good cellaring potential. The mesmerizing aromatics bring you back to the glass, arousing the senses with honeysuckle, white peach, wet stone, and Pazazz apple. The palate is very focused and concentrated with unbelievably good length. Wait for the minute long finish. Drink 2023-2032- 96

2019 Sanguis ‘Handful of Ghosts’ White Wine- The ‘Handful of Ghosts’ is a hauntingly good proprietary blend of Chardonnay, Roussanne and Viognier that was stored in seasoned oak and stainless steel for 25 months prior to bottling. Cantaloupe, marzipan and cardamom notes all fill the nose. The palate is rich and viscous with a seamless texture and gobs of underlying finesse, with salty undercurrents. Quite honestly a joy to consume right now, give this an hour in the decanter if you want to open in its heady youth. Drink 2023-2036- 95

2019 Sanguis ‘Lady, Birds & Boy’ White Wine- A blend of Roussanne, Marsanne and Malvasia Bianca, the ‘Lady, Birds & Boy’ is a stunning new bottling that is highly fragrant and intense. Gorgeous aromas of honeysuckle flower from the Malvasia shine on the nose alongside ripe nectarine and baking spice dusted pear tones. The palate is all-consuming and evolves with gorgeous melon, citrus and tropical fruit flavors. Wait for the near minute-long cream and mineral-laden finish. I’m pretty sure that you won’t taste anything quite like this. A truly one of a kind blend, be sure to give this beauty an hour of air before consuming. Drink 2023-2036- 95

2020 Sanguis ‘Insouciance’ Rose- The heady and hefty 2020 Rose by Sanguis is now the tenth edition of this wine. A literal cornucopia of aromas greet you from wild mushroom and peat moss tones alongside ripe Yakima cherry and green melon notes. The palate shows off a velvety texture, with serious length and weight. This might come off as big and bold for a Rose, yet the bright finesse and seamless experience throughout the mid-palate. Juicy and also quite fragrant, this is drinking marvelously now and will live on for another eight to ten years. Drink 2023-2031- 95

2019 Sanguis ‘1/1’ Grenache- The outstanding ‘1/1’ Grenache is very translucent in the glass. Coming from the Watch Hill Vineyard, this Grenache was co-fermented with 50% whole cluster inclusion and small portions of Roussanne and Syrah, stored in a seasoned 400L puncheon for 27 months before bottling. The wine comes off very Pinotesque and very sexy, with red rose water, blood orange zest, guava and copious minerals, with salty soils on the palate. World-class, with its smooth texture and delightful drinkability, this stunning new Grenache will live on for at least another decade. But why wait? Drink 2023-2031- 97

2019 Sanguis ‘1/1’ Syrah- Inky dark in the glass, the ‘1/1’ Syrah is sourced from the famed John Sebastiano Vineyard which is a very windy site which is mostly planted to Pinot Noir, Grenache, Syrah and Chardonnay. This site is planted to own-rooted Estrella-Syrah vines, as the wine was 50% whole-cluster fermented on native yeasts with large portion (9%) of Viognier. Downright voluptuous on the mouth, this reveals in its flavor range from smoked brisket and black licorice candy to dark chocolate shavings, honeysuckle water, sweet pipe tobacco and shades of blackberry pie. Delicious and heady, yet maintaining a bright acid backbone, coming off very weightless, enjoy this stunning bottling now and over the next ten years. Drink 2023-2033- 96

2019 Sanguis ‘Verve’ Red Wine- Always one of the truly unique wines that I taste each year, the 2019 ‘Verve’ blends Grenache, Syrah and Roussanne. Stored in a combination of used l 400 and 500L barrels for 24 months, this beautiful wine opens with a bright bouquet of garrigue with wet stone, Christmas spices, white pepper and copious dark fruits. Despite being translucent in the glass, the palate is plush and soft, with a generous mouthfeel and beautiful length. Finishing long with red fruits and minerals, this is a stunning wine to consume now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2019 Sanguis ‘Optimist’ Red Wine- A blend of Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Roussanne and Viognier, this was stored in nearly all neutral oak puncheons prior to bottling. The nose smells wonderfully smoky from the Syrah, with white pepper dusted brisket, black florals and blackberry compote tones that combine with white flowers and green bell pepper adding to the complexity. The palate is silky and dense with great finesse and length. A rich core of red and dark fruits greet you with chocolate, garrigue and lighter citrus blossom tones. Drink 2023-2038- 96

2019 Sanguis ‘The Modern’ Red Wine- The captivating ‘The Modern’ is always released in the Fall and is mostly Syrah blended with small parts Viognier and Petit Verdot. This saw no new oak and shows off dried sage and green bell pepper notes on the nose with baking spices and suggestions of dark chocolate shavings. The palate is very soft and refined with silky tannins that frame a core of gorgeous red and dark fruits, with lemongrass and Satsuma orange zest accents. This blend is absolutely singing now and enjoy over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2035-95

2019 Sanguis ‘Bossman’ Syrah- Deeply colored in the glass, the highly perfumed 2019 Sanguis ‘Bossman’ Syrah is another stunning release by Matthias Pippig. Smoked beef ribs and green peppercorns march on with menthol and violets. The palate is wonderfully concentrated, with bright acidity that brings you back to the glass for more enjoyment. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2019 Sanguis ‘The Highlands’ Red Wine- Mostly Cabernet Franc with smaller parts Grenache and Petit Verdot, the wine was stored in neutral puncheons before bottling. The aromatic range is seriously good from green bell pepper and salty soils to black currants and red and dark florals. The salinity is astonishingly good and runs through the core of rich dark fruits with espresso bean and a lingering finish. Drink 2023-2038- 96

2018 Sanguis ‘Songs Without Words’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The gorgeous 2019 ‘Songs Without Words’ comes from 20+ year old Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the Santa Ynez Valley. A silky blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon with roughly 10% Petit Verdot this spent three years in seasoned oak barrels before bottling.  The wine is wonderfully herbal and very old-world on the nose, with sage and red bell pepper alongside red currants and freshly tilled loamy soils. The palate comes of fresh and vibrant, showing considerably younger than its five years of age. Soft, round and generous on the mouth, this very savory bottling will be sure to satisfy over the next decade or more. Drink 2023-2035- 95

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The 2020 Cayuse Vineyards ‘God Only Knows’ Grenache (OB, 99) is a monumental effort from this challenging vintage.

Cayuse Vineyards

March 28, 2023

I will fully admit to being a full-fledged terroir junkie. There is just something about novel terroir that I find to be so invigorating. Cayuse Vineyards is a story about terroir.  Christophe Baron was raised in Champagne and was was the youngest heir of the famed Champagne house, Baron Albert. His ancestors had worked the land at Baron Albert since 1677. As a young boy Christophe worked harvests and eventually studied viticulture in Burgundy and Champagne. After some travels he was drawn to the Willamette Valley, and was set on making great Pinot Noir. One day he was outside of Walla Walla and saw terroir inspired by the stony galets of Chateauneuf du Pape. We are all thankful that he decided to plant his vineyard back in 1997 and the rest has been history. Christophe has had unparalleled success in the Walla Walla Valley since that time, crafting stony wines that show an incredible combination of tension, range and terroir.

Usually I sit with Christophe and Bionic Wines director of winemaking, Elizabeth Bourcier, to taste their wines.  This year I took my time with the wines in my home over many hours. 2020 was a vintage that was marred by the smoke events during harvest. Prior to that it was a fantastic growing season and another warm vintage that did not have major heat spikes. I am enamored by the wines that I tasted by Cayuse in the 2020 vintage. His new Rose, coming from 2021, the 2021 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Edith’ Rose (OB, 94) is amongst the finest Rose wines in North America. I was blown away with the  2020 Cayuse Vineyards ‘God Only Knows’ Red Wine (OB, 99) which is a one of a kind Grenache that is very Chateau Rayas in dazzling minerality and texture, as well as sumptuous flavor range. Similarly good was the 2020 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Bionic Frog’ Syrah (OB, 98) which is dense and chewy with serious stuffing. Learn more about these incredible future release wines at https://cayusevineyards.com Here are the incredible wines by Cayuse Vineyards (release fall 2023).

2021 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Cailloux Vineyard’ Viognier- Each year Cayuse Vineyards makes a very small amount of 100% Viognier from the Cailloux Vineyard set outside the town of Milton-Freewater, Oregon. This 2021 rendition was aged in a combination of concrete and stainless steel before prior to bottling, as the wine exudes class with its concentration and underlying finesse. This shows considerably better warmed up a bit, as layers of nutmeg dusted cantaloupe, juicy nectarine, starfruit, papaya and wet rock all give this incredible flavor complexity. This finishes very long with a touch of vanilla cream and stony minerals. Gorgeous to consume in its youth, this will cellar well for another five plus years. Drink 2023-2029- 95

2021 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Edith’ Rose- This beautiful and bright, the 2021 ‘Edith’ comes from the Armada Vineyard which was planted back in 2001. Stored for 10 months in a combination of stainless steel and concrete, this takes on a very soft mouthfeel with loads of mouth-watering acidity. Layers of red raspberry and Yakima cherry with white peach collide with stony undercurrents on the palate. I think you would be hard-pressed to find a more refined version of Grenache Rose anywhere in the Pacific Northwest. Lithe and polished, yet quite generous, enjoy this beautiful 100% Grenache Rose now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2023-2028- 94

2020 Cayuse Vineyards ‘God Only Knows’ Red Wine- Translucent in its core, the Grenache-dominant 2020 ‘God Only Knows’ Red Wine has a small amount of Syrah blended in. Sourced from the Armada Vineyard which was first planted back in 2001, this was stored in neutral oak for 21 months and weighs in at a mere 13.7% alcohol. The palate is exceedingly fresh, showing a sterling veil of tension on the mouth. Very pretty guava and cran-cherry fruit flavors combine with Hoisin sauce, tobacco leaf, wet rock and charcuterie board, with blood orange zest accents. This is incredibly clean wine considering the conditions at harvest. Generous and done in a slightly richer style than the 2019, this beauty is best enjoyed now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2028- 99

2020 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Flying Pig’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Flying Pig’ is a follow up to the truly outstanding 2019 edition. This version blends 46% Cabernet Franc with 37% Merlot and the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon. Stored for 19 months in 30% new oak, this offer gorgeous red bell pepper, red currants and menthol notes on the palate with stony and savory accents truly rocking. Very refined, with good tension and flavor density, this is beautiful wine to savor now. Drink 2023-2028- 95

2020 Cayuse Vineyards ‘The Lovers’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘The Lovers’ combines 85% Cabernet Sauvignon the remainder Syrah. It is doing its Provencale inspiration right, with dried herbs, dark currants, blackberries and salted meats that meld together aromatically. The palate comes off very fresh and clean, with a smooth mouthfeel and wonderful concentration. Lightly stony and showing plenty of richness with oyster sauce, beef drippings and hints of orange peel, this is complex, delicious Cabernet Sauvignon that is best consumed now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2029- 95

2020 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Camaspelo’ Red Wine- The outstanding 2020 ‘Camaspelo’ is a gorgeous proprietary blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with small parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc with a douse ofTempranillo. This is steady right out of the gate with tar, tobacco leaf, black currents, anise and shades of soy sauce on the palate. The salty and stony elements are really outstanding, as is the mouth-watering acidity that coats the palate. Enjoy now and over the next several years to come. Drink 2023-2028- 95

2020 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Widowmaker En Chamberlin Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A beautiful wine that is truly one of a kind, the 2020 ‘Widowmaker’ is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from this stony terroir littered with gallets. Once on the nose this takes on rich kirsch and blackberry tones alongside citrus blossom, and suggestions of tar. The palate is lithe and polished with a seamless texture. Once on the mouth this seems to effortlessly glide throughout the drinking experience, as the combination of weight and underlying finesse really makes this sing. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2028- 95

2020 Cayuse ‘Cailloux Vineyard’ Syrah- The ebullient 2020 ‘Cailloux Vineyard’ is the only Syrah that has a small portion (5%) of Viognier co-fermented. Densely colored in the glass, this reveals high tones of honeysuckle and pink grapefruit blossom that only the Viognier can deliver, alongside peppered bacon and salted coppa. The palate is very fresh and concentrated, with wonderful wet stone character and underlying finesse alongside the salty accents. Finishing long with bright guava, Mandarin orange zest and wet grave, this is be a knockout wine that is already beautifully evolved now at the three year mark. Drink 2023-2029- 96

2020 Cayuse Vineyards ‘En Cerise Vineyard’ Syrah- A stunning wine from a tough vintage, the 2020 ’En Cerise Vineyard’ Syrah is drinking beautifully right now. Red currants, copious minerals, kumquat zest, Nori and pulled pork flavors combine with stony accents on the palate. Finishing long with bright red fruits and citrus accents, this comes off very clean, with no rough edges. Enjoy now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2023-2028- 95

2020 Cayuse Vineyards ‘En Chamberlin Vineyard’ Syrah- The Cayuse ‘En Chamberlin Syrah’ was first produced back in 2002 when I was a college senior at Whitman College. Right now the nose is absolutely popping with bright re cherry and red raspberry, garrigue and stony notes alongside shades of charcuterie. The palate comes off very polished and viscous with serious verve and a gorgeous core of red and dark fruits. With more air this becomes more stony and savory, with salted green olive and white pepper notes as this beauty is going to gratify now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2028- 96

2020 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Bionic Frog’ Syrah- Another standout wine by Cayuse Vineyards, the 2020 ‘Bionic Frog’ Syrah was stored in 20% new large format French oak before bottling. You have to love the seamless texture of this wine. Deep dark fig, black currant and black raspberry flavors combine with shades of sweet pipe tobacco and wet stone on the palate. Finishing very long wth dense dark cherry flavors, wet rock and minerals, this is a stunning wine that is up there with the finest made this vintage. Drink 2023-2029- 98

2020 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Armada Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2020 ‘Armada Vineyard’ Syrah is a total stunner from this vintage. Dense and heady, with serious aromatic range, this reveals tar and graphite ones alongside pine needles, salted charcuterie, ripe red raspberry and shades of seaweed. The palate is plush and refined with silky tannins and wonderful viscosity. A great core of red and dark fruits greet you with the stony and salty notes ever present. Finishing very long, enjoy this outstanding Syrah now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2023-2028- 96

MV Cayuse Vineyards ‘6,042’ Grenache- A brand new magnum only wine composed from mostly the 2013 vintage (56%) as well as the 2014 (24%) and 2015 vintage (20%), this absolutely explodes out of the glass with sensational aromatics. Red rose petals, cigar ash, salmonberry compote and suggestions of charcuterie with green olive tapenade, this this insanely good aromatic range. The palate is incredibly fresh and focused, with great viscosity and underlying tension. Soft, pillowy and very refined, this is outrageously good right now. Drink now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2029- 97

2014 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Wallah Wallah Special #7 Cabernet Franc (1.5L)- Even better than the 2015, and also nicely matured now at the nine year mark, the 2014 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Wallah Wallah Special #7 Cabernet Franc is brimming with tension once on the mouth. Beautifully textured, with good depth and concentration, this moves into rich red and dark fruit flavors with seaweed, salty wet gallets, salted and white pepper dusted parma ham and shades of anise. Hugely complex and very novel, enjoy this beauty now and over the next five plus years. No need to wait on this! Drink 2023-2028- 96

2015 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Wallah Wallah Special #9 Cabernet Franc (1.5L)- Released in 2023, the 2015 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Wallah Wallah Special #9 Cabernet Franc offers hoisin sauce, fresh sage, white pepper and plenty of wet stony character on the nose. The palate is soft and inviting with very pure red fruits that mingle well with soy sauce, bulls blood, cherry tomato and Satsuma orange zest. Mature and full-bodied with a generous texture, this is beautiful wine to enjoy now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2029- 95

2020 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Wallah Wallah Special #14 Syrah (1.5L)- As always, this magnum-only Syrah is sourced from a range of Christophe Baron’s vineyards which he and director of winemaking Elizabeth Bourcier select together. I can assure you that the 2020 edition is every bit as good as the captivating 2019. This comes off very clean and aromatically gratifying with bacon fat and garrigue notes alongside shades of violets, green peppercorns and shades of iodine on the nose. The palate is plush, refined and comes off very clean with a gorgeous core of huckleberry and wild blackberry fruits that mingle well with the stony and savory elements of the Syrah. This is quite simply a masterclass considering the challenges of the vintage. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 97

2020 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Impulsive’ Tempranillo- The sensational 2020 ‘Impulsivo’ is a powerful wine from a tough vintage. On the nose this shows dried herbs and freshly tilled rocky soils alongside black plum and baking spices. The palate is deep and concentrated, yet maintains beautiful freshness and a strong douse of salinity. Complex, novel, enjoy this one of a kind Tempranillo now and over the next six years. Drink 2023-2029- 96

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Here are the gorgeous new range of wines by Big Table Farm.

Big Table Farm

March 27, 2023

Another year, another beautiful set of releases by Big Table Farm. A pillar of consistency in the Willamette Valley, Big Table Farm was founded by Clare Carver and Brian Marcy — two of the nicest people you will meet in the industry. Marcy has a longstanding history in the wine industry, formerly serving as winemaker for Neyers prior to moving north and settling in the Willamette Valley.These are wines that age brilliantly and are known for great texture and beautiful pure red and dark fruits, with loads of nuance. I can’t wait to try the wines from their new estate plantings someday.

The new wines come mainly from the 2021 vintage and they did a glorious job managing this warm vintage. I love the new 2021 Big Table Farm ‘Willamete Valley’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is a knockout wine for the price. Deep and concentrated, with wonderful underlying tension, this is one to buy by the case. Learn more about Big Table Farm at http://www.bigtablefarm.com/ Here are the fantastic new release wines by Big Table Farm.

2021 Big Table Farm ‘The Wild Bee’ Chardonnay- The very bright and nicely textured 2021 Big Table Farm ‘The Wild Bee’ Chardonnay comes from a host of sites sprinkled throughout the Willamette Valley. Shades of cantaloupe mark the nose alongside baking spices, brioche and suggestions of white peach. The palate is very soft with bright underlying acidity and lovely nutty accents. A total home-run this vintage, enjoy this outstanding value now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2023-2031-93

2021 Big Table Farm ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- This 2021 edition of the ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir is another killer value by Big Table Farm — and may be the finest rendition of this wine to date. On the nose this takes on layers of guava and citrus fruits alongside cardamon and light loamy soils. The palate is silky smooth and nicely concentrated, with bright underlying finesse. Everything is in tremendous balance here and showing some salty undercurrents, this is delicious, generous Pinot Noir to devour now and over the next eight plus years. This is one to buy by the case. Drink 2023-2031- 94

2021 Big Table Farm ‘Pelos-Sandberg Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- For years I have admired wines from this site which is located in the Eola-Amity Hills. Big Table Farm began sourcing from this site back in 2010. This is concentrated, juicy Pinot Noir that is jam-packed full of dense red fruits, with cinnamon sticks, blood orange zest and freshly tilled salty soil accents. Beautifully textured, with a smooth mouthfeel, this is delicious Pinot Noir to enjoy now and over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2020 Big Table Farm ‘The Funk Estate Vineyard’ Syrah- It has now been roughly five years since Big Table Farm has been sourcing from this outstanding Oregon Vineyard, located in the Rocks District of Milton-Freewater. The 2020 ‘The Funk Estate Vineyard’ Syrah shows great poise with creme de violette, wet rock, black currants and shades of creosote on the palate. Full-bodied, this is beautiful stuff to consume now. Drink 2023-2027- 93

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Great photo here of Dan and Amy Wampfler who craft some sensational wines for Abeja.

Abeja

March 24, 2023

As I approached the long, winding road, I saw the beautiful vineyards creating a panoramic effect. Abeja is one of the most beautiful sites you will see in the Walla Walla Valley. Co-winemaker Dan Wampfler greeted me, as we walked into their brand new production facility that is a sight to be seen. Brand new tanks and fresh concrete was everywhere and the smells of new French oak permeated throughout the building.

For years I have admired the wines by Abeja who have consistently produced some of the finest wines of the Walla Walla Valley. Wines were first made by illustrious winemaker John Abbott, and Abeja is set in the foothills of Walla Walla’s Blue Mountains. Abeja has eight luxury cottages, with a large farmhouse, creeks, and gardens on the 38 acre property. Abeja relies on the winemaking talents of Dan Wampfler and Amy Alvarez-Wampfler. Both Dan and Amy have more than 30 years of combined winemaking experience. They work closely together on the wines and craft truly one of the great overall lineups of wine. There is little doubt that the Abeja Chardonnay has been one of the benchmarks for Washington State.

One of the best editions of this wine that I have tasted over the past decade, the 2021 Abeja Chardonnay (OB, 94) is rich with outstanding flavor complexity and great underlying tension. Do not miss out on the gorgeous 2020 Abeja Merlot (OB, 94) which is also very dense and layered, showing a very soft texture. Learn more about this outstanding winery at http://www.abeja.net/ Here are the great new wines by Abeja.

2021 Abeja Chardonnay- Coming from the Cello, Connor Lee and Abeja Estate Vineyards, this outstanding Chardonnay was aged for ten months in only 14% new French oak barrels before bottling. This has the very classic Abeja texture, as the mouthfeel and viscosity comes off very gratifying —as does the level of mouth-watering acidity. Layers of banana cream, roasted pineapple, and Macadamia nut with salty and silty undercurrents all wonderfully collide in unison on the palate. A joy to drink now, this has some cellaring potential, as this will pick up earthy and nutty notes as it ages. Drink 2023-2030- 94

2020 Abeja Merlot- For years Abeja has made a very strong reputation for Merlot wines. This edition has just a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon blended in and is sourced from the Abeja Estate, Mill Creek and Sagemoor Farms properties. Silky and pillowy on the mouth, this unveils chocolate covered red raspberry, sagebrush and loamy soil notes on the palate, with scorched earthy accents. With good viscosity and verve, this is fantastic stuff to consume now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 94

2020 Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon comes from a range of sites throughout the Columbia Valley and blends 79% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller parts Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The herbal notes are wonderful on the palate, with violets, cracked white pepper, green herbs and rabbit brush accents. Heady dark fruits mingle well with copious minerals, and dark chocolate cake flavors. Really good now, enjoy this over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 94

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Here is the incredible new 2021 Passing Time Chardonnay.

Passing Time

March 23, 2023

Friends, I think most of us are in love with a great pro football story. Passing Time was founded by NFL legends Dan Marino and Damon Huard, utilizing the talents of famed winemaker Chris Peterson. The wines have been amazing since their first 2012 vintage. Chris Peterson was the first graduate of the Walla Walla Community College’s Enology and Viticulture program and working at DeLille for eight years under legendary winemaker Chris Upchurch. He makes wines that are very well-structured and are built for aging. I love the bold style that he utilizes with these wines, which show great acidity and aging potential. Trust me, these age so gracefully.

2020 as a vintage has been very inconsistent. It is a producer vintage and the new wines by Passing Time beautifully illustrate why this vintage is one to buy if you look carefully. I love the new 2020 Passing Time ‘Columbia Valley’ Red Wine (OB, 93) which shows good flavor range and bright acidity. No reason to cellar this one. Even better is the incredible new 2021 Passing Time Chardonnay (OB, 95) which is very dense and shows nice underlying poise with a silky smooth texture. This is quite simply one of the finest Washington Chardonnays that I have tasted over the past year. Learn more about this fantastic  boutique winery at http://www.passingtime.com Here is my review of the new Passing Time wines.

2021 Passing Time ‘Columbia Valley’ Chardonnay- Brimming with intensity and weight, the 2021 ‘Columbia Valley’ by Passing Time is an incredible effort in this warm vintage. Mostly sourced from the Bacchus Vineyard (75%) as well as the Boushey Vineyard (25%), the wine was stored in only 15% new French oak before bottling. A bright golden hue greets you in the glass, with a silky mouthfeel. Toasty brioche, lemon zest, nectarine, roasted pineapple and shades of cardamom dusted starfruit all wonderfully combine on the palate. Don’t serve this beauty too warm so you can take in the scintillating range of flavors. This is a knockout wine in 2021. Drink 2023-2031- 94

2020 Passing Time ‘Columbia Valley’ Red Wine- Dense, chewy and loaded with rich black fruit flavors, the 2020 ‘Columbia Valley’ Red Wine by Passing Time is a serious value from this challenging vintage. Mostly coming from the Discovery, Klipsun and Seven Hills Vineyards, this nearly all Cabernet Sauvignon wine (7% Merlot blended in) displays mocha, tar and violets on the nose with shades of menthol. The palate is smooth and medium to full-bodied with a soft texture. Copious minerals combine with the deep core of dark fruits and hints of creosote. Really good now, this will continue to evolve over the next five plus years. No reason to wait! Drink 2023-2028- 93

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Great photo of famed actor Kyle MacLachlan and his wine.

Pursued By Bear

March 23, 2023

Today we share the wines from one of Washington’s most famous actors, Kyle MacLachlan. Originally from Yakima, MacLachlan probably best known for his major role in the hit ‘90s drama, Twin Peaks which also returned to television several years back. For many years now MacLachlan relies on the talented hands of Dan Wampfler to craft his wines. I have had many vintages of these limited production wines and the latest releases are as good as any. Both releases come from the somewhat challenging 2019 vintage for reds in Washington. Only limited production, MacLachlan produces a limited amount of Cabernet and Syrah each year, as well as a killer Rose called ‘Blushing Bear.’ Dan sources from a range of great sources throughout the Columbia Valley. For anyone who is a fan of the outstanding Abeja wines, I think you will be enamored by Pursued By Bear. I am really excited to check out the new tasting room in Walla Walla which opened back in January.

I think the new 2019 Pursued By Bear ‘Baby Bear’ Syrah (OB, 94) is a total knockout with great viscosity and verve, showing some good aging potential. This one is everything you want in Columbia Valley Syrah. Learn more about this awesome project out of Washington at http://www.pursuedbybearwine.com/ Here are the great new wines by actor Kyle MacLachlan and his winery, Pursued By Bear.

2019 Pursued By Bear Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming from a range of sites in the Columbia Valley, the Cabernet Sauvignon has a touch of Merlot and Cabernet Franc blended in. Stored for 22 months in French oak, this offers alluring aromas of red cherry, sandalwood and shades of wild blackberry, with a kiss of milk chocolate. The palate is soft and refined with silky tannins that line a core of black fruits, with sweet pipe tobacco and chocolate spice cake. Really good now, enjoy over the next fifteen years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2019 Pursued By Bear ‘Baby Bear’ Syrah- The 2019 ‘Baby Bear’ comes from the Lewis and Phinny Hill Vineyards, as this was stored in French oak for 34 months prior to bottling. The wonderful blue fruits and flinty tones from the Lewis Vineyard fruit is shining brightly right now. Full-bodied and powerful, with refined tannins and a silky mouthfeel, this is glorious wine to consume now and over the next twelve years. Drink 2023-2035- 94

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We present the beautiful 2018 wines by Champagne Christophe Baron.

Champagne Christophe Baron

March 22, 2023

Many years back I heard from Christophe about his new project, Champagne Christophe Baron (CCB) and I could hardly believe my ears. “We are doing 100% Pinot Meunier” he exclaimed. “And Zero Dosage!” “Wow! Now that is something I have to try!” I chimed back. The magnum only and mailing list-only Champagne Christophe Baron are all zero dosage bottlings that showcase 100% Pinot Meunier. I think you would be hard-pressed to find Pinot Meunier this good in the world. Don’t get me wrong, I love Charles Mignon and MV Krug who do some great PM wines. I just love the density and flavor/aromatic range of this varietal when it is done right.

Maestro Christophe Baron was born into an exceedingly long line of Champagne vignerons, with a history that dates back as far as 1677. He trained in Avize (Champagne) and Beaune before moving to the United States and founding one of North America’s iconic brands, Cayuse Vineyards. Baron’s estate in champagne includes 3 hectares (7.5 acres) surrounding the villages of Charly-sur-Marne, Crouttes-sur-Marne and the hamlet of Porteron, and its vineyard holdings are made up of only very old parcels of Pinot Meunier.

The wines are big and bold with serious weight and underlying finesse. Please don’t consume these in a champagne flute, as they really need a Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc glass, or a Riedel tasting glass. They also need a lot of time when opened and I recommend letting them sit for least 30 minutes prior to consuming. Finally, make sure to not serve these wines cold. They are best served at 42-45 degrees — or warmer!

2018 was sunny and dry in champagne. Many people are thinking that this might be an exceptional vintage that produced a generous crop and a riper, fleshier style of wines. Compared to the 2017s, I think that these are a touch better overall, and more geared towards weight and flavor density instead of linearity. There is little doubt that the new 2018 CCB wines are generous and rich wines that have some seriously good aging potential. For my palate this is the finest overall lineup of CCB that I have tasted since its inception. Here are my reviews of the exceptional 2018 champagnes by Champagne Christophe Baron (mailing list only) and learn more at https://champagnechristophebaron.com/

2018 Champagne Christophe Baron ‘Les Hauts Blanches Vignes’ Champagne- Seriously impressive in this warm vintage, the 2018 Champagne Christophe Baron which was planted back in 1969. This is an intense location with a southwestern exposure and a steep, 19 degree slope, the vineyard sits at 384 feet above sea level. On the nose there are toasty marzipan and nutmeg tones that combine with suggestions of cantaloupe and guava, giving this an exotic edge. The palate is deep and rich with a silky texture and very refined mousse upon entry. Finishing long with bright citrus fruits and copious minerals, this is a dashing, deep Champagne with loads of aging potential. Try to resist this beauty for at least another year. Drink 2024-2038- 97

2017 Champagne Christophe Baron ‘Le Dessus Du Bois Marie’ Champagne- The 100% Pinot Meunier 2018 Champagne Christophe Baron ‘Le Dessus Du Bois Marie’ Champagne shows off a beautiful honey color in the glass. Shades of salted oily Brazil nut, quince, nectarine skin and fresh guava all fill the nose. The palate is big and bold, showing off serious weight from the heat of the vintage.  However, this is very seamless champagne that shows both power and beautiful tension. The salty tones, viscosity and underlying finesse really make this check all the boxes. Just wait for the exceedingly long finish in this masterclass by Christophe Baron. Enjoy this beauty now but give it about 30 minutes in the decanter to take in the full flavor and aromatic range. Drink 2023-2039- 97

2018 Champagne Christophe Baron ‘Les Alouettes’ Champagne- Even better than the 2017 bottling, the Brut Nature ‘Les Alouettes’ is less tightly wound than the 2017, showing a touch more flavor density and intensity. Intense ginger and white peach aromas combine with salted mixed nuts and a dusting of peat moss on the nose. The palate is plump and round, as the generous texture really entices. This has both the weight and bright acidity to cellar well for at least another fifteen years — and potentially more. I would consider giving this one more year of bottle time. Drink 2024-2039- 97

2018 Champagne Christophe Baron ‘Les Closeaux’ Champagne- This is a new wine to this portfolio, as the ‘Les Closeaux’ comes from a 1.49 acre parcel located in the town of Crouttes-sur-Marne. Vines from this site were first planted all the way back in 1925. Very dense like the other wines of this lineup, this offers concentrated gooseberry, pear, flint, lemon rind and starfruit flavors alongside pastry crust and cardamom notes on the palate. Full of tension, with serious weight, this beauty is just starting to hit its stride. Initially a bit reticent, give it 20-30 minutes in the decanter if consuming now to indulge in the full range of flavors. Drink 2023-2038- 96

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Here are the beautiful new wines by Covale Cellars.

Covale Cellars

March 22, 2023

A winery focusing on the Quintessence Vineyard on Red Mountain, Covale Cellars is a brand new outpost founded by former Quilceda Creek assistant winemaker Marv Crum and his wife, Susan. Following a short retirement, Marv returned to winemaking back in 2017 after a close group of friends encouraged him to make a barrel of Cabernet Sauvignon.  

Grapes were fermented in fruit bins, in their garage and then aged in new French Oak barrels. The resultant wine was extremely well-made considering the challenges of the 2020 vintage. Both of these wines are immediately gratifying and should be consumed over the next few years. They are rich, viscous wines that beautifully showcase this site on Red Mountain. Learn more at https://www.covalecellars.wine/ and here are my reviews of the new 2020 Covale Cellars wines.

2020 Covale Cellars Cabernet Franc- This outstanding Cabernet Franc comes from the Quintessence Vineyard on Red Mountain. The wine has only 3% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in, as it offers ripe black plum, cigar box, dark currants, creosote and creme de violette notes on the palate. This is very refined wine, with soft tannins, that is drinking beautifully right now. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2020 Covale Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming from Red Mountain, the 2020 Covale Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon has 3% Cabernet Franc blended in. Inky in the glass, this unveils heady black cherry cordial, black licorice, tar and garrigue notes on the palate. The bright acidity and viscosity of the wine really drive this, as this is already beautifully evolved. Drink 2023-2027- 92

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Here are some of the beautiful older wines I tasted at Sojourn Cellars.

Sojourn Cellars Retrospective

March 22, 2023

Sonoma wines just age so gracefully. Sitting across Sojourn director of winemaking Erich Bradley we talked about the vintages and the wines that he presented me. “I think that 2014 was a super vintage” he said. Wafts of truffle lined this beautiful Pinot Noir that was still remarkably fresh and elegant.

Sojourn Cellars has been crafting outstanding Pinot Noir and Chardonnay now for more than two decades. It all dates back to 2001 when two tennis friends–Craig Haserot and Erich Bradley–who shared a passion for two things: great wine and tennis. With Erich’s experience as an Assistant Winemaker at Arrowood Winery, the two developed a plan to produce small bottlings of Cabernet Sauvignon from outstanding vineyard sources. They began with a hundred cases of Cabernet Sauvignon that they sold to friends and family. Today they produce 21 different wines and have customers worldwide. Randy Bennett serves as winemaker and general manager.

I was surprised how well these Chardonnay wines cellared. Now at over a decade old, the 2012 Sojourn ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) remains very vibrant and fresh with a silky texture and great sense of weight. I adored the 2014 Sojourn ‘Gap’s Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is deep and concentrated with plenty of salty character from this incredible vineyard in the Sonoma Coast. Learn more about these great wines at sojourncellars.com and here are my reviews of the older wines poured to me at Sojourn Cellars.

NV Sojourn Sparkling Wine- This is a limited production wine that is made from Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. This is a zero dosage wine that offers brioche and saline drenched pear on the nose with hints of cashew nut. The palate shows good weight with wonderful structure and copious minerals. Drink 2023-2029- 92

2012 Sojourn ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This is beautifully evolved Chardonnay showing honeysuckle and nutmeg dusted brioche notes alongside roasted pineapple tones. This is wonderfully fresh with ripe peach, Marcona almond and juicy Japanese pear notes with serious viscosity and length. The silky mouthfeel makes this even more enticing. Drink 2023-2029- 94

2013 Sojourn ‘Durell Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This wine comes from this storied Sonoma site and comes off very nutty and stony on the nose. Salted Macadamia nut alongside peat moss, nectarine and lemon rind with vanilla cream notes come together on the palate. Showing serious length, this is beautiful, refined Chardonnay that will cellar well for another five years. Drink 2023-2029- 94

2014 Sojourn ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2014 Sojourn ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a treat to enjoy right now. Red rose petals come together with Marello cherry, ripe pomegranate seed and shades of orange rind. The heady aromatics bring you back to the glass for more enjoyment. The palate is plush and soft with a silky texture and no rough edges. This will easily go for another decade. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2014 Sojourn ‘Gap’s Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- An outstanding wine from this warm vintage, the 2014 Sojourn ‘Gap’s Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir, comes from this storied Sonoma Coast site which neighbors the Pacific Ocean. The wine is very rich and salty with incredible tension and very pure red fruit flavors. Citrus rind and shades of white truffle combine with the salty red fruits, as this is a stunning wine that is just hitting its stride. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2021 Sojourn ‘UV Lucky Well Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This comes from a site in the Sonoma Coast that is at the top of the Coastal Range. Aged in 50% new French oak, vines were planted back in 2008. This comes off very perfumed with red rose petals alongside ripe strawberry and salted orange rind. The palate is deep and concentrated with loads of crunchy and salty red fruits that combine with Mandarin orange zest and serious length. Beautiful and pure, this is a beautiful new Pinot Noir that will cellar well for decades to come. Drink 2023-2038- 94

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Alison Frichtl has crafted some incredible new Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs for WALT.

WALT

March 16, 2023

For years I have admired one of the outstanding producers of Sonoma Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. WALT was named after Kathryn Hall's parents, Bob and Dolores Walt who were originally vintners and were  a source of daily inspiration for her. Today WALT Wines sources from some Pacific Coast's most distinctive vineyards from Sonoma to Oregon. For those who love Pinot Noir, this is a rare chance to try an incredible range of wines that showcase these incredible vineyards. I love loved these wines since their inception.

Yesterday I had the opportunity to taste with WALT winemaker Alison Frichtl who has been with the company for fifteen years, starting as an enologist. She and vice president of winemaking Megan Gunderson have worked closely together for years. One site to continue to watch is big and bold Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from their estate vineyard, Bob’s Ranch, which is located in the Petaluma Wind Gap near Sebastapol. I have been really impressed over the years with the quality of the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from this vineyard.

Do not miss out on the 2021 WALT ‘Bob’s Ranch’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) which is deep and concentrated, with serious underlying acidity and marvelous weight. This is a perfect wine for any lover of great Sonoma Chardonnay. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://www.waltwines.com Here are the beautiful new wines by WALT.

2021 WALT ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay- The 2021 WALT ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay (30% new French oak) comes together with ripe mango, banana, lemon cream. white peach and copious salty minerals on the palate. The long finish lingers marvelously on the tongue, as this beauty is best best enjoyed over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 WALT ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Chardonnay- WALT has been working with this site for more than a decade, as they source from three parcels in the vineyard. Each lot is picked separately and then blended back together. This comes off very salty and savory with salted Marcona almond, toasted brioche bread, and roasted pineapple notes on the palate. Drink 2023-2035- 94

2021 WALT ‘Bob’s Ranch’ Chardonnay- This wine comes from a cooler site that sees a lot of fog during harvest. Stored in 35% new French oak, this offers serious weight and great underlying finesse. Cantaloupe and lemon curd flavors combine with shades of Japanese pear and nutty undertones. Gorgeous to consume now, this will only get better with age. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2021 WALT ‘La Brisa’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 ‘La Brisa’ Pinot Noir is a gorgeous offering that blends a range of vineyards from the Sonoma Coast AVA. Very juicy with pomegranate seed, kumquat zest, freshly tiled salty soils and shades of red rose water, this is delicious, bright and concentrated Pinot Noir that is drinking beautifully right now. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 WALT ‘Shea Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This wine comes from this famed Willamette Valley site. Ripe red rose petals combine with peat moss, red currants and shades of bergamot on the nose. The palate is lithe and polished with a silky texture. Showing beautiful tart red fruits, this is outstanding Pinot Noir that has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2036- 94

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Here is the utterly sensational 2020 Hors Categorie Syrah.

Hors Categorie

March 15, 2023

Hors Catégorie

It is my pleasure to introduce you to one of the unique wines of the world. Roughly translated to ‘beyond categorization’ Hors Catégorie is a pure expression of terroir in a bottle. Sourced from a very hilly, 2 acre vineyard hidden in the foothills of the Blue Mountains, the Hors Catégorie Vineyard is a sight to be seen. This vineyard is so steep that you struggle to climb it. The last time there I was sweating running up the hill with Christophe. The views from the top are unbelievably beautiful.  The vineyard has incredibly tight spacing and Syrah clusters are cropped at less than a ton an acre. The terroir is largely stony with thick broken basalt sprinkled everywhere. When you are there you can truly feel the struggle of the vines in this stony terroir.

I have tasted their new release from 2020 and was absolutely mesmerized. The richness and tension, alongside the stony tones just can’t be beat. This 2020 Hors Catégorie Syrah (OB, 100) is a perfect wine from a very challenging vintage. Very clean and smooth with incredible flavor density and flavor range, this is one for any collector of Pacific Northwest wine. Having tried all the ‘La La’ wines many times, this 2020 will stand tall amongst the finest Syrahs of the Northern Rhone. Learn more about this marvelous Syrah at https://horscategorievineyards.com/horscategorievineyards/ Here is the new review for the incredible 2020 Hors Catégorie Syrah. 

2020 Hors Catégorie Syrah- A completely different animal than the 2019, the 2020 Hors Categorie Syrah is a more fleshy style than the incredibly bright 2019. It is quite simply a perfect wine that will go down as one of the great wines made in a challenging vintage. The nose takes on insanely good aromatic range from pork rillettes to lavender alongside boysenberry jam and shades of creosote and black olive tapenade. Once on the mouth the seamless texture really entices.  Layers of wet gravel and tar, alongside menthol, black pepper dusted bacon, iodine and blood orange zest all magically combine to complete something that is totally different than anything made in the Pacific Northwest. Cheers to Bionic Wines director of winemaking, Elizabeth Bourcier, on this incredible effort that seems to get more and more intoxicating with every sip. Like most outstanding wines made in this vintage, there is really no reason to cellar. Drink 2023-2030- 100

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Beautiful wines by Tulpen Cellars.

Tulpen Cellars

March 9, 2023

An outstanding boutique producer of Washington Cabernet Sauvignon, Tulpen is a brand created by winemaker and vineyard manager, Ken Hart. Ken serves as General Manager of Appellation Management Group (AMG) as AMG develops and manages vineyards within the Walla Walla Valley — including vineyards for a’Maurice, Dunham Cellars along with another 10 properties.

Wines by Tulpen are unabashedly bold and full-bodied. They’ve developed quite a cult following in the Pacific Northwest and the latest set of wines come from the outstanding 2018 vintage. These are some of the best Tulpen wines that I have ever had. Do not miss out on the scintillating 2018 Tulpen ‘Yellowbird Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 94) which is dense and powerful with a great acid backbone. Learn more about these electric wines at https://tulpencellars.com/ and here are my reviews of the new Tulpen wines.

2018 Tulpen ‘Tokar Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The  2018 Tulpen ‘Tokar Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon offers cedar and black currants that combine with milk chocolate notes on the nose. The palate has good freshness and verve, with bright acidity and firm tannins that hold in place a deep core of black fruits and scorched earth accents. Drink 2022-2035- 92

2018 Tulpen ‘Los Oidos Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Beautiful to enjoy now, the 2018 Tulpen ‘Los Oidos Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon offers pencil lead and blackberry pie notes that combine with anise and violets on the nose. The palate is complex and delicious with dusty soils and leather notes that combine with the fantastic acidity and bright black fruit flavors. Drink 2022-2035- 93

2018 Tulpen ‘Yellowbird Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘Yellowbird Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a beautiful Walla Walla Valley expression of this varietal. Once on the nose this takes on beautiful black florals with loamy soils, cigar box and black cherry compote that all take shape in the glass. The palate is deep and concentrated, with firm tannins and a great veil of tension. Highly enjoyable now, consume this beauty over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 94

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Here are the glorious new releases by White Walnut.

White Walnut

March 7, 2023

Today we present one of the electric new brands out of Oregon. White Walnut is the brainchild of the former winemaker and general manager of Archery Summit, Chris Mazepink, who purchased land in the Dundee Hills back in 2013. Chris sensed the potential of the property as it is located adjacent to the vineyards of legendary Oregon wineries Domaine Drouhin and Archery Summit. Chris and his sons, Archer and Charles, cleared the land, by hand, in the summer of 2014 and then planted it to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in 2015 and 2016. They preserved the remaining walnut trees on the property that continue to produce fruit and are now well over 70 years old, standing stoic amongst the vines. A smaller site at less than seven planted acres, Chris sees incredible potential for Chardonnay in the Dundee Hills. I have really been impressed with these wines since their inception and then ew releases from 2021 were truly amazing.

Do not miss out on the incredible 2021 White Walnut ‘North Block’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) which is vibrant with its tension and also very soft with glorious length. delivers really good range and a silky mouthfeel. Even better is the sensational 2021 White Walnut ‘Amphorae’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which shows immense texture and is very gratifying on the mouth, with serious viscosity and underlying acidity. Learn more about this outstanding new winery at https://www.whitewalnutestate.com Here are the great new wines by White Walnut.

2021 White Walnut ‘Dundee Hills Estate Grown’ Chardonnay- The gorgeous 2018 ‘Dundee Hills Estate Grown’ Chardonnay is a joy to consume right now. Immediately gratifying on the mouth, this offers whipping cream, honeydew melon and a soft mouthfeel upon approach. Medium to full-bodied, this is highly seamless Chardonnay that shows a light dusting of salinity and rocky undertones to add complexity. Great to consume now, enjoy over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2021 White Walnut ‘Worden Hill Road’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Worden Hill Road’ Chardonnay is a stunning, limited production Chardonnay that has some great cellaring potential. Once on the nose this takes on layers of citrus rind, creme caramel, roasted pineapple and suggestion of wet stone. The palate is fat and unctiuous, showing the heat of the vintage — yet maintaining a bright underlying acidity. Rich and layered, with tropical, melon and citrus fruits, do not serve too warm to enjoy the full gamut of complexity. Only 75 cases produced so get this while you can. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2021 White Walnut ‘North Block’ Chardonnay-  The 2021 White Walnut ‘North Block’ Chardonnay comes from this site high atop the Dundee Hills AVA. The nose shows off bright Bartlett pear, cardamom dusted cantaloupe, rock salt encrusted Challah bread and suggestions of stony minerals. The palate is utterly seamless and very soft, as this glides throughout the drinking experience. Deeply concentrated, with its lovely salinity and underlying finesse, this is a stunning new bottling by winemaker Chris Mazepink. Enjoy now and over the next twelve years to come. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2021 White Walnut ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir is a gorgeous warm vintage effort from White Walnut. This is loaded with guava, wild strawberry, and red cherry fruits alongside silty soils and suggestions of baking spices on the palate. Lithe and very polished, with a soft mouthfeel, enjoy now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 92

2021 White Walnut ‘Amphora’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Amphora’ as the name suggests, saw extended time aged in these clay vessels before bottling. The nose is fresh with beautiful red rose petals that mingle with mulberry and pink grapefruit blossom notes. Extremely soft on the mouth, the weightless effect mid-palate is quite dazzling. You are greeted to this pillowy texture and great core of freshly picked guava and red raspberry fruits which makes this particularly difficult to put down. This is already nicely evolved at the two year mark and savor this beauty now and over the next twelve years. Drink 2023-2035- 94

2021 White Walnut ‘Estate South Blocks’ Pinot Noir- The really good 2021 White Walnut ‘Estate South Blocks’ Pinot Noir comes from this site high atop the Dundee Hills. This bottling is wonderfully stony on the mouth, with loads of minerality and tension. A great melange of red and dark fruits collide with Middle Eastern spices, toasted hazelnut and shades of damp earth. Very soft and refined throughout the drinking experience, consume this gem now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2035- 94

2021 White Walnut ‘Worden Hill Road’ Pinot Noir-  Deep, dense and downright delicious, the 2021‘Worden Hill Road’ Pinot Noir displays a wonderful whiff of smoldering stones and cardamom spice on the nose with suggestions of peat moss and marionberry preserves. The palate is silky and elegant with a soft texture. Very pretty red and dark fruits mingle well with copious minerals and stony undertones on the palate. While great to consume now, this has at least another decade in front of it. Drink 2023-2035- 93

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Great photo here of Duckhorn winemaker Renee Ary.

Duckhorn Vineyards

March 7, 2023

One of the only Napa houses that hedged their bet on crafting beautiful Merlot, Dan and Margaret Duckhorn founded Duckhorn Vineyards back in 1976.  What began with a mere 800 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon and 800 cases of Merlot in 1978, Duckhorn now has many arms of their dynasty including a winery in Washington (Canvasback) as well as Goldeneye out of the Anderson Valley, who is steadily producing a gorgeous lineup of Pinot Noirs. Duckhorn relies on seven estate vineyards for their wines and makes some of the most consistent Merlot in Napa Valley.

It was back in 2014 that Renée Ary became the fourth head winemaker for Duckhorn Vineyards winemakers that began with Tom Rinaldi in 1978. Her promotion came after 11 years after serving as both assistant and associate winemaker. Born and raised on the East Coast, Renée moved to California to attend Saint Mary’s College, where she earned a degree in chemistry and art. Renee formerly worked in the lab at Robert Mondavi Winery in Oakville, as she trained under famed winemakers Genevieve Janssens, Steve Leveque and Richard Sowalsky. During that time she took classes in winemaking and viticulture at UC Davis and Napa Valley College.

In August of 2003, Renée joined the Duckhorn Vineyards team under then winemaker, Mark Beringer. Throughout her first decade at Duckhorn Vineyards, Renée learned every detail of production moving from lab manager to enologist to assistant winemaker to associate winemaker in charge of Duckhorn’s Sauvignon Blanc and Monitor Ledge Vineyard wines. I have been so impressed with the consistency of her wines. I am really impressed with their 2020 Duckhorn Vineyards Merlot (OB, 91) which is a great wine made in an incredibly challenging vintage. Learn more about this famed winery at duckhorn.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Duckhorn.

2021 Duckhorn ‘North Coast’ Sauvignon Blanc- For this vintage Duckhorn Vineyards winemaker Renee Ary has blended in 7% Semillon as the wine was aged for five months Sur lie in only 8% new French oak prior to bottling. Soft and very approachable on the mouth, this delvers ripe pear and honeydew melon tones alongside shades of cardamom dusted starfruit on the palate. Drink 2022-2028- 91

2020 Duckhorn Vineyards ‘Napa Valley’ Merlot- The 2020 Duckhorn Merlot combines 80% Merlot wth the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon (17%), and a touch of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The nose shows bright red florals alongside ripe dark fruits and a touch of chocolate. The palate shows bitter chocolate alongside boysenberry, black tea and firm tannins. This is quite honestly a remarkably achievement considering the challenges of the vintage. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2018 Duckhorn Vineyards ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon has 8% Merlot blended in. Aged for 24 months in French oak, this offers black tea, wild blackberry, cocoa powder and tobacco leaf on the palate. Finishing long, this is delicious, generous wine to consume over the next decade. Drink 2023-2035- 93

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Great photo of this beautiful chateau, Chateau de Pez.

Chateau de Pez

March 7, 2023

A historic site in Saint Estephe, Château de Pez is one of the oldest vineyards of the appellation. Created in 1452, it had numerous owners before being bought back in 1995 for the Maison de Champagne Louis Roederer. The site is across the road from Chateau Calon-Segur as its 38-hectare property is set on diverse terroirs of limestone, marnous sands and gravel giving depth and richness to its wines.

Over the years I have admired these wines for producing good values that are considerably lower priced but similar quality to the neighboring properties. Their ‘Grand Vin’ spends one year in barrel, and then the wine is fined using fresh egg whites, with no filtration. It is then aged in wood (40% new oak) for 12 to 16 months. Winemaker and general manager Nicolas Glumineau was born in 1974 and has been living in Bordeaux for over 25 years. He studied at the University of Oenology in Bordeaux and he serves as winemaker and general manager at Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande as well. His new grand vin, the 2020 Chateau de Pez (OB, 93) is deep and complex with silky tannins and good viscosity. Learn more about this outstanding winery at https://mmdusa.net/portfolio/chateau-de-pez and here are my reviews of the new Chateau de Pez wines.

2020 Chateau de Pez- The 2020 Chateau de Pez exudes class with its deep core in the glass. Ripe dark currants melange with dark chocolate and mocha tones with kirsch cordial on the palate. Very soft, with silky tannins, this is rich and layered stuff that will drink well for decades to come. Drink 2024-2040- 93

2019 Chateau de Pez ‘2nd’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘2nd’ by Chateau de Pez is a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot with a whopping 12% Petit Verdot. It is nicely tannic once on the mouth with a smooth mouthfeel. Layers of green bell pepper and dark chocolate shavings emerge from the Petit Verdot, alongside boysenberry cordial, pencil lead and espresso grounds. This is really good stuff to consume now and over the next decade. Give this an hour in the decanter before enjoying. Drink 2023-2033- 91

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Here are the brilliant aged Chardonnays by Dutton-Goldfield.

Dutton-Goldfield Chardonnay Retrospective

March 6, 2023

I am a total sucker for world-class aged Chardonnay. For years I have admired the aging potential of great Chardonnay from Sonoma. Wines from Dutton-Goldfield age so well and I have fondly revisited many of their ‘Dutton Ranch’ Chardonnays from the 2004 and 2005 vintage. Sadly I have consumed all of those remaining wines.

Dutton Ranch is a huge property in Sonoma County. Since the 1880’s, members of the Dutton family have been working the land in Sonoma County. Today, the fourth, fifth and sixth generations of the family are farming approximately 1,400 acres of sustainable winegrapes and organic apples in the Russian River Valley, Green Valley, and Sonoma coast appellations.

I recently had the chance to revisit some older wines by Dutton-Goldfield and the Dutton Ranch from the 2015 and 2017 vintages. The 2015 in particular was honeyed and nutty — hugely complex stuff that is really peaking right now. I love the 2017 release as well which is a treat to visit and still comes off very bright and mineral-driven. Learn more about these outstanding Chardonnays at duttongoldfield.com and here are my reviews of the Dutton-Goldfield Chardonnays.

2020 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch’ Chardonnay- Coming from this large estate in Sonoma County, I have long admired these wines going back fifteen years. This 2020 edition offers bright underlying acidity with poached pear, vanilla cream and suggestions of butterscotch with baking spice dusted brioche. Complex and delicious, this will live on for another eight plus years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2017 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Rued Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The ‘Rued Vineyard’ is located in the scenic Green Valley of Sonoma County and was first planted to Warren Dutton back in 1969. Rich, layered and impeccably balanced, this 2017 Chardonnay offers mascarpone cream, French bread and creme brullee flavors alongside shades of roasted pineapple. This is seriously good now and still has a ways to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2031- 94

2015 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch/Rued Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The outstanding 2015 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch/Rued Vineyard’ Chardonnay shows how well these beautiful wines can age. A brilliant caramel in the glass, this shows lemon zest with kumquat crusted creme brûlée tones alongside shades of mango, cashew nut, wild mushroom and copious minerals. This is really at its peak. Drink 2023-2028- 93

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Here are the outstanding new wines by Joseph Perrier.

Joseph Perrier

March 6, 2023

Last winter I had one of the years great visits to Joseph Perrier. A house with incredible history, Champagne Joseph Perrier dates back to the early 19th century. It was back in 1825 in Châlons-en-Champagne that the house was founded on a town that was formerly vineyards. The house is now in its sixth generation of ownership and leadership, run by Jean-Claude and Benjamin Fourmon. This house is probably is best known for its Brut Royal, a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. The company also produces a beautiful Blanc de Blancs, and an outstanding Blanc de Noirs. Their tete de cuvee, the ‘La Cote A Bras’ comes from a small parcel of Pinot Noir vines and is made every vintage!

Joseph Perrier is the only winery still headquartered in Châlons-en-Champagne and the house manages 22 hectares of vineyards in Cumières and Hautvillers. In Joseph Perrier’s cellar in Chlons, a former chalk quarry which dates all the way back to the Gallo-Roman period. The house has a beautiful chateau where I met with Benjamin Fourmon as we tasted through his beautiful range of wines. This past weekend I had the pleasure of revisiting these wines and the consistency was really outstanding. I love the new NV Joseph Perrier ‘Brut Nature’ Champagne (OB, 93) which is very nuanced and would be a downright killer match for sushi. I was enamored by the intense and powerful 2014 Joseph Perrier ‘La Cote A Bras’ Champagne (OB, 95) which is dense and really needs an hour of air before consuming. Learn more about this beautiful house in Champagne at josephperrier.com and here are my reviews of the outstanding new wines by Joseph Perrier.

NV Joseph Perrier ‘Cuvee Royale’ Brut Champagne- The NV ‘Cuvee Royale’ includes 20% reserve wines and is a blend of near equal parts Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay as this was disgorged in October 2022. This was given 7 G/L dosage, this offers alluring French bread and pink grapefruit blossom tones on the nose alongside green apple and stony undercurrents. Fantastic now, enjoy over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2029- 91

NV Joseph Perrier ‘Brut Rose’ Champagne- The NV ‘Brut Rose’ is mainly Chardonnay (65%) with the remainder Pinot Noir and and Pinot Meunier. Beautiful ripe red fruits alongside kumquat zest and baking spices on the palate. Bright red cherry and cranberry fruits combine with blood orange zest notes on the palate. Very delicate. Drink now.. Drink 2023-2028- 91

NV Joseph Perrier ‘Brut Nature’ Champagne- This’Brut Nature’ has a base wine from the 2016 vintage, including 15% reserve wines.. It is mostly Chardonnay (62%) with smaller parts Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Aged for 60 months on the lees, this shows pastry crust notes alongside sour apple, and shades of ginger dusted green papaya. This would be a flat out fabulous wine for top class sushi. Very delicate, yet showing a good veil of viscosity, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2014 Joseph Perrier  ‘Tout de Blanc’ Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Champagne- The marvelous, magnum only ‘Tout de Blanc’ Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Champagne comes from the 2014 vintage. Coming from a small selection of Chouilly, Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Cumières et Epernay sourced Chardonnay grapes, this received 4G/L dosage and was stored in bottle for five years before disgorgement in May 2019. Very refined bubbles immediately greet you. This is just so well-balanced, with copious minerals with lemon oil, kumquat zest, and baked Challah bread, this has glorious viscosity, finesse and length. Do not serve too warm. Only 1500 bottles produced. Drink 2023-2036- 95

2014 Joseph Perrier ‘La Cote A Bras’ Champagne- This 100% Pinot Noir Brut Nature ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Champagne was first produced with the 2006 vintage. This single plot, Cumieres- based Champagne comes from vines which were planted more than forty years ago. This is a dense and rich wine, with sterling minerality. Lime zest, wet stone and sourdough bread tones combine with shades of quince and wild mushroom on the palate. Give this a lot of time to evolve, as this is best decanted now and will cellar well for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2037- 95

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Here is the gorgeous new ‘Batar’ by Querciabella.

Querciabella

March 6, 2023

One of the fine houses based in Tuscany, Querciabella produces a gorgeous range of wines everywhere from Maremma to Chianti. The name Querciabella means ‘beautiful oak’ as the estate dates back to 1988 when Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni, an investor and entrepreneur, converted the family estate to organic viticulture in 1988, making Querciabella one of the first wineries in Italy to employ this practice. Under his leadership, Querciabella became known as one of Italy’s most well-known producers in this region. What was now a single hectare is now 100 hectares for their estate.

The winery produces a range of wines from their ‘Batar’ which is an extraordinary white wine blending Chardonnay and Pinot Blanco, to their incredible Chianti Riserva, which was first made in 2011 and sees extended barrel age. The new ‘Batar’ (OB, 95) is an extraordinary bottling that is silky and incredibly viscous with beautiful length. I adored the new 2019 Querciabella ‘Palafreno’ IGT Toscana (OB, 93) which is mostly Merlot- based and shows a pillowy texture. I think that this is going to satisfy any lover of unique Merlots of the world. Learn more about this famed Italian estate at https://querciabella.com and here are my notes from the gorgeous Querciabella releases.

2021 Agricola Querciabella ‘Mongrana’ White WIne- This is now the second edition of their new Vermentino-based Tuscan white wine which was sourced from Maremma and has a touch of Viognier blended in. This comes off bright and also very soft on the mouth, with honeysuckle water, ripe candatlope and suggestions of white peach on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2020 Agricola Querciabella ‘Batar’ White WIne- This wine was first made back in 1988, as the 2020 ‘Batar’ blends Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay. This was barrel-fermented in French oak for nine months before bottling. The wine comes off heady and intense with bright pear and starfruit notes alongside roasted hazelnuts and shades of baking spice dusted brioche. The palate is lithe and polished with a seamless texture. Very seamless throughout the drinking experience, coming off almost weightless, this is quite simply a joy to drink even so young. Savor this beauty now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2020 Agricola Querciabella ‘Mongrana’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Mongrana’ is forward and juicy in its ripe blackberry and black cherry flavors with soft tannins. Medium-bodied, and brimming with bright acidity, enjoy now with a boar ragu pasta. Drink 2023-2029- 90

2019 Argicola Querciabella ‘Palafreno’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Palafreno’ is a Merlot-based wine from their estate vineyards located in Greve in Chianti. This comes off very plush and refined with silky tannins that combine with ripe red cherry, red raspberry and cocoa powder flavors alongside fine grained tannins and dusty soil notes. Enjoy now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2020 Agricola Querciabella ‘Querciabella’ Chianti Classico- A bright and lively Chianti Classico, the 2020 ‘Querciabella’ shows a soft mouthfeel with teaberry, tart cranberry, and citrus rind accents on the palate. Very vibrant and refined, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 91

2019 Agricola Querciabella ‘Querciabella Riserva’ Chianti Classico- The 2019 ‘Riserva’ by Querciabella is a truly fantastic bottling that needs a lot of air right now. A whiff of black truffle shavings greets you on the nose, with dusty soils, tart raspberry and shades of walnut all combine aromatically. The palate is plush and refined with long tannins that line a rich core of red and dark fruits. Be sure to give this beauty a two hour decant if consuming now. Drink 2023-2038- 93

2018 Agricola Querciabella ‘Camartina’ Red Wine- The brilliant 2018 Agricola Querciabella ‘Camartina’ Red Wine is a dazzling melange of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese that was sourced from vineyards in Chianti Classico. Very soft on the mouth, this delivers a seamless texture. Layers of red raspberry puree, freshly tilled stony soils, leather and crushed mint all combine on the palate. Quite literally a joy to consume now, this will cellar well over the next fifteen plus years. Give this an hour or two of air before enjoying. Drink 2024-2039- 95

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