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Owen Bargreen

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Here are the world-class new wines by Cliff Lede.

Cliff Lede

September 28, 2023

An amazing success story out of Canada, Cliff Lede grew up involved with his family’s successful construction business. He first visited Napa during a business venture in the 1990s. Lede was already a collector of top Bordeaux, and he was immediately drawn to the incredible landscapes and wine culture of Napa. He saw the great potential in the Stags Leap District and founded Cliff Lede Vineyards. One year later, the southwest facing hillside just above the Silverado Trail which became his Poetry Vineyard. Wines from this vineyard are some of the finest that I taste in the Napa Valley.

I have loved these wines for more than a decade. A really great new release that shows outstanding value under 35 bucks, the 2022 Cliff Lede ‘Napa Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 93) is texturally beautiful from the Semillon blended in. I just adored their 2019. Cliff Lede ‘Poetry’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 99) which borders on perfection. Silky and rich, this is a sensational new wine. which is incredibly soft and has insanely good length. The core of blue and dark fruits is so impressive here. I love the new 2018 Cliff Lede ‘To Kalon Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 98) which deftly showcases this world class vineyard. This Cabernet will surely live on for decades to come. These are just sensational new wines for any serious collector of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Learn more about this outstanding producer at https://cliffledevineyards.com/ Here are the beautiful new wines by Cliff Lede.

2022 Cliff Lede ‘Napa Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc-The delicious 2022 Cliff Lede ‘Napa Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc has some Semillon blended in from their estate vineyards in Calistoga. The smooth texture is really outstanding as nutmeg drenched pear, brioche and shades of papaya all come together neatly on the palate. Finishing long, this is a beautiful wine that is showing great in its youth. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2021 Cliff Lede ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 Cliff Lede ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon is soft and supple once on the mouth, showing some refined tannins. Layers of tar and tobacco leaf combine with mocha, dark currants and suggestions of graphite on the palate. Really good, enjoy this beauty now and over the next ten years to come. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2021 Cliff Lede ‘Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This brilliant new bottling comes from the famed ‘Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard’ was bought purchased from Beaulieu Vineyard in 1993. Napa icon Hamilton Crabb first planted the vineyard in 1868, and it was then replanted in 1994 to multiple clones of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, as the site shows tight vine spacing and a more modern trellising system. The wine comes off as impeccably balanced, with plenty of loamy soil character. Blackberry pie, creosote and anise tones combine with suggestions of espresso grounds on the palate. Finishing very long, this is already head-turning wine that needs about an hour in the decanter prior to savoring. Drink 2024-2042- 97

2021 Cliff Lede ‘Poetry’ Red Wine-One of the unique sites in the Napa Valley, the Poetry Vineyard was designed by David Abreu and is set on a steep west-facing hillside. This 2021 wine is nearly all Cabernet Sauvignon (89%) with the remainder Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The green herbal notes from the Petit Verdot are sensational right now as creme de cassis and violets combine with pencil lead, and Turkish coffee notes on the nose. The palate is weightless with a seamless texture and beautiful verve. Every working part is moving seamlessly here. Finishing very long with black currants, refined tannins and a graphite edge, this beautiful wine will easily live on for another twenty years. Drink 2024-2044- 99

2021 Cliff Lede ‘Rhythm’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The sensational 2021 ‘Rhythm’ was entirely sourced from the Cliff Lede Estate Vineyards in the Stags Leap District. Inky in the glass, this shows concentrated black and blue fruit flavors alongside tar, Arabica bean grounds and suggestions of creosote. Finishing long with good concentration and finesse, this beauty will easily live on for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2024-2040- 96

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Sensational Palmes d’Or wines by Nicolas Feuillatte

Nicolas Feuillatte

September 27, 2023

One of the great value champagnes in the United States market, today we share what is the most popular selling brand in France and third largest globally. It is incredible that roughly 24 million bottles are made by Feuillatte with 10 million under their name. Nicolas Feuillatte was born in Paris in 1926 into a family of wine and spirits importer-negociants. After the Second World War, he decided moved overseas and in 1960 became the USA's leading importer of African coffee. He later went on to invest in the vineyards of Champagne and the first grapes are sold to negociants. In 1976, he created and produced the eponymous champagne for a close circle of "American friends". Its commercial success is immediate. He sold his brand in 1986 to the Centre-Vinicole de la Champagne. Today Nicolas Feuilette is imported to the United States by Chateau Ste. Michelle Estates.

By far one of the most popular Champagne brands in the United States, you can find Feuilette Brut anywhere from a posh wine shop to a local supermarket. They make a range of entry level, vintage and tete de cuvee wines. Their top wine the ‘Palmes d’Or’ spends ten years on the lees and is a special wine made from top vineyards.

Cellar master Guillaume Roffiaen has been at the helm at Nicolas Feuilette since 2014, formerly being at Champagne Drappier. Roffiaen Roffiaen studyed agricultural engineering and agribusiness at the Institut Superieur d’Agriculture in Lille and then oenology in Reims, where he gained a national diploma in winemaking. His new wines are gorgeous across the board. I loved the 2015 Nicolas Feuilatte ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Champagne (OB, 93) which is big and bold, with loads of citrus oil flavors and a soft texture. Evne better is the incredible new 2008 Nicolas Feuilatte ‘Palmes d’Or’ Champagne (OB, 95) which is a total stunner to consume now. Right at peak, this will easily go for another ten years but is irresistible to savor right now. Learn more about this famed house at https://www.nicolas-feuillatte.com and here are my reviews of the great new Nicolas Feuilatte wines.

NV Nicolas Feuilatte ‘Reserve’ Champagne- One of the most popular champagnes in the United States, and a fantastic aperitif, the NV Nicolas Feuilatte ‘Reserve’ Champagne shows off plenty of freshness on the palate with green apple, white peach and pastry crust tones. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2027- 90

NV Nicolas Feuilatte Rose Champagne- Really delicious to enjoy now, the NV Nicolas Feuillatte Rose Champagne displays good tension with plenty of crunchy cranberry and red raspberry flavors, with lemon zest accents. This is great stuff to drink now and over the next five years. Drink 2023-2026- 91

2015 Nicolas Feuilatte ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Champagne- This is now the second time that I have had the chance to taste the beautiful 2015 Feuilatte ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Champagne. This sat on the lees for five years before disgorgement. Shades of citrus rind, cardamom and pastry crust all combine on the nose. The palate shows a soft mousse and beautiful weight and length from this warm vintage. Enjoy now and over the next seven plus years to come. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2008 Nicolas Feuilatte ‘Palmes d’Or Champagne- This is now the third chance I have had to review the beautiful 2008 Nicolas Feuilatte ‘Palmes d’Or Champagne which comes from this outstanding vintage.  The wine combines equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and was stored on the lees for a whopping ten years before bottling.  Right away the secondary notes are rocking with wild mushroom and forest floor accents that combine with a beautiful bouquet of melon rind, lychee and kumquat zest. The palate is round and generous with fantastic weight and finesse. Finishing very long, with its silky mousse, this is drinking beautifully right now. Drink 2023-2034- 95

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Pictured is the world-class winemaking team for Tenor Wines.

Tenor

September 27, 2023

There was immediately a captive audience for one of the biggest events in Pacific Northwest wine back in 2021. News spread that the winemaking team from Quilceda Creek was going to join Matthews and Tenor. This was huge news and the Northwest wine scene eagerly awaited to see their hands in the Matthews and Tenor programs. It is hard to believe that it has now been more than two years since they have been hired —an all-star team of Alex Stewart, Hal Iverson and Jesse Schmidt.

Tasting yesterday with Alex and Hal, they shared their thoughts on the new Tenor wines. “These are a bigger style for us” said Hal. “And we don’t like lean wines” Alex explained. “I’m not a huge fan of lean Cab either” I explained. For years I have reviewed wines highly based on novelty and typicity. Does a Washington Cab taste like a Washington Cab? Is there something special about the wine? I take my knowledge of benchmark wines of the world whenever I taste new wines.

Tasting through the Tenor wines I felt that each was made with very special intention. Are they full-throttle? Absolutely. Are they delicious? Absolutely. While deep and rich, each bottling possesses an excellent underlying poise. There is no doubt that these are the finest Tenor wines that I have tasted. I am honored to be the first wine critic to taste these wines, which were tasted twice over several hours.

I adore the 2021 Tenor Chardonnay (OB, 95) which is very Kongsgaard meets Washington. I don’t know a Chardonnay lover that will not adore this wine. The finest Washington Pinot Noir made yet, the 2021 Tenor Pinot Noir (OB, 95) is rich and layered with a Sonomaesque flavor profile. This beauty is going to really impress you. Learn more about these great new wines at tenorwines.com. Here are the beautiful new releases by Tenor.

2021 Tenor Sauvignon Blanc- The 2021 Tenor Sauvignon Blanc comes from the La Renya, Bacchus and Connor Lee Vineyards. Aged in 80% new French oak he wine saw extended lees contact, as this shows off cantaloupe and papaya aromatics that combine with Brazil nut and shades of sweetened gooseberry. The palate is rich and concentrated with good underlying tension and saline drenched nectarine and green apple flavors. Finishing long this is a beautiful expression of Washington Sauvignon Blanc. Drink 2023-2031- 94

2022 Tenor Sauvignon Blanc- The 2022 Tenor Sauvignon Blanc is a seamless wine made by the new Tenor winemaking team. Coming from this slightly cooler vintage, this saw a touch more cigar barrel aging. Coming from the Spice Cabinet and Olsen Vineyards, this offers lychee and pineapple notes alongside dense pear and stony undercurrents. The palate is rich and layered with a soft mouthfeel and glorious sense of length. Delicious even its youth, this beauty will show well for another eight to ten years. Drink 2023-2031- 95

2021 Tenor Chardonnay- The 2021 Tenor Chardonnay comes from a combination of sites including Connor Lee, Solaksen and La Reyna Blanca Vineyards. The resultant bottling is a total stunner, being very Kongsgaard meets Washington. Baking spice dusted Japanese pear with creme brûlée, honeydew melon and shades of sweetened gooseberry all mark the nose. The palate is rich and dense with incredible texture and weight — yet not coming off at all heavy. Big and bold, with bright underlying acidity, this is a joy to consume right now. Drink 2023-2031- 95

2021 Tenor Pinot Noir- The 2021 Tenor Pinot Noir comes mainly from the Connor Lee Vineyard which produces berries with think skins. Stored in 90% new French oak barrels with varying format size, this offers generous black and red fruits on the nose with toasty oak, and suggestions of violet rose petals. The palate is plush and concentrated with a seamless texture. Showing good weight and underlying verve, this is quite simply the fines Washington State Pinot Noir that has been produced. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2021 Tenor Grenache- The 2021 Tenor Grenache was sourced from the Thunderstone and Corfu Crossing Vineyards in the Royal Slope AVA. The nose comes off very pretty with potpourri aromatics, followed by guava puree, orange blossom and suggestions of ripe Yakima cherry. The palate is soft and refined with a smooth texture, as this glides throughout the drinking experience. While stored in 100% new French oak, this does not display major oak influence. Finishing long, showing mouth-watering acidity with pretty red fruits and exotic spices, this beauty is absolutely singing now. Drink 2023-2035- 96

2021 Tenor Syrah- The 2021 Tenor Syrah was mainly sourced from Scarline Vineyard, with the remainder from the Stoneridge Vineyard. Stored in 100% new French oak, the wine was almost entirely de-stemmed during the fermentation process (roughly 10% whole cluster fermented). The aromas of green olives, and black currants grip you alongside violet rose petals and dense dark fruits. The palate is extremely concentrated with outstanding flavor density and serious complexity. Bulls blood and black olives combine with dense blackberry and black currant flavors, with salty undertones. Drinking beautifully now, enjoy this beauty over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2023-2035- 96

2021 Tenor Merlot- The 2021 Tenor Merlot is a rich and deep bottling that is amongst the finest renditions in the state. Right away the wine is very alluring with its high-toned red florals that mingle well with cigar box, and concentrated dark fruits with chocolate tones. The palate displays some glorious concentration with refined tannins that frame a heady core of huckleberry and black currant fruits, with graphite and espresso ground notes on the palate. This is already a beautiful wine to consume now. Drink 2023-2038- 96

2021 Tenor Cabernet Franc- The 2021 Cabernet Franc is one of the finest wines of its kind that I have tasted over the past year. It shows a high-end Napa level of concentration with lovely nuance. Once on the mouth this displays lovely weight with a pillowy texture and strong underlying finesse. Freshly roasted coffee bean flavors mingle well with sagebrush, boysenberry fruits and hints of red bell pepper. This is highly refined Cabernet Franc that will continue to provide drinking enjoyment over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 96

2021 Tenor Cabernet Sauvignon- The brilliant 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is the finest wine in the Tenor collection of wines. Coming from the Wallula Gap, Canyons, Quintessence, and Stoneridge Vineyards, this comes off deep and voluptuous once on the mouth, as layered tannins combine with a seamless texture. Bright underlying acidity combines with the core of blueberry compote, creosote, creme de violette, Turkish coffee, crushed mint and graphite notes on the palate. Extremely complex and novel, this is a stunning new wine that really needs about two hours in the decanter before consuming. Drink 2024-2040- 97

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Great photo here of Jesse Lange, behind his beautiful new array of 2022 Chardonnays.

Lange

September 26, 2023

Sitting across from Jesse and Don Lange, you could just feel the sense of history in the building. “This is where we used to hold tastings” said Don. Years before they built their state of the art tasting facility I fondly recall visiting the expansive Lange property roughly twenty years ago for the first time. I was captivated by the sweeping views of the valley from this site.

It was back in 1987 that Don Lange, took a chance by acquiring a large chunk of land that had sweeping views of the Willamette Valley. Don made the wines for many years and over time his son Jesse transitioned into their head winemaker, taking over for his father. During my recent visit we would taste through the recently bottled 2022 wines. 2022 was a cooler year that had a very moderate growing season but a warm fall that led to late-ripening. Jesse spoke with glee about 2022. “We were so thrilled with the way that these turned out, the fall literally saved the vintage” he said. The 2022 wines by Lange are extremely well-made but also have a very classic feel, a slight departure from warm vintages like 2021.

I adored the 2022 Lange ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which is a wine that is already drinking beautifully and has a ton of aging potential. Even better is the stunning 2022 Lange ‘Estate’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) which is deep and concentrated with fantastic flavor density already. This beauty will go for another fifteen plus years. Learn more about this outstanding Oregon winery at https://www.langewinery.com/ Here are the great new wines by Lange Estate

2022 Lange ‘Classique’ Chardonnay- The 2022  Dijon clonal selection ‘Classique’ Chardonnay was stored in 15% new French oak before bottling. This shows good ripeness and tension with nectarine and Pink Lady apple flavors that combine with juicy starfruit and baking spices. Drink 2023-2031- 91

2022 Lange ‘Three Hills Cuvee’ Chardonnay- The 2022 ‘Three Hills Cuvee’ is an outstanding showing that mainly was sourced from the Estate, Freedom Hill and Durant Vineyards, the wine was stored in 20% concrete eggs before bottling. Rich and layered, this is delicious wine that has fantastic underlying finesse and mouth-watering acidity. Rich citrus oil flavors combine with pastry crust and shades of allspice on the palate. Drink 2023-2033- 92

2022 Lange ‘Estate’ Chardonnay- A totally stunning wine, the 2022 ‘Estate’ Chardonnay is a dense and delicious bottling that is already showing beautifully. Once on the nose this shows off lime zest alongside diatomaceous earth, white rose, toasted walnut and suggestions of pie crust. The soft texture entices, as this shows beautiful length and underlying verve. You’re going to love how this is already evolved. Drink 2023-2037- 95

2022 Lange ‘Freedom Hill’ Chardonnay- Set on this site that has vines on Bellpine Soils, this was stored in 40% new French oak. Chardonnay vines were planted all the way back in 1998. This is heady and delicious stuff that is absolutely delicious to enjoy right now. Nicely textured and rich, with its core of melon and citrus fruits, this is decadent wine that is already beautifully evolved. Drink 2023-2037- 94

2022 Lange ‘Classique’ Pinot Noir- The 2022 ‘Classique’ comes from a range of sites including the Estate and Freedom Hill Vineyards. This offers macerated strawberry notes that combine with balsamic vinegar, cedar, and pretty red florals. Fresh and nicely textured, with good weight, this is delicious Pinot Noir that is already nicely evolved. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2022 Lange ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2022 Lange ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir is nicely textured and weighted even so young. A pure core of red fruits greets you with stony soils, Mandarin orange zest and shades of baking spices. Complex and delicious, this is drinking beautifully right now. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2022 Lange ‘Three Hills Cuvee’ Pinot Noir- The 2022 ‘Three Hills Cuvee’ is an outstanding bottling from this late harvest year. The wine comes off very fresh and fragrant with pomegranate seed, Yakima cherry, kumquat zest, sweet raspberry and suggestions of baking spices on the palate. Drink 2023-2032- 92

2022 Lange ‘Lucky River Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This comes from a new property acquired by the Lange family in January 2022. The wine shows beautiful purity of fruit with guava, red currants and cedar notes alongside gorgeous red rose florals. This is very Barolo meets Willamette Valley with its high tones. Drink 2023-2037- 94

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Here is the beautiful range of wines by L’Ecole No. 41.

L'Ecole No. 41

September 25, 2023

One of the outstanding places in Walla Walla to taste wine, I fondly recall rolling through the double doors of L’Ecole No. 41 for the first time.  walking through their big set of double doors and tasting their beautiful range of wines. For several years now winemaker Marcus Rafanelli has been crafting a beautiful range of wines. Last summer I had a chance to taste with him and GM Marty Clubb who shared some really cool older wines. The wines are very well balanced and show remarkably consistency across the lineup. I regularly recommend to people that they will likely really love the range of wines that L’Ecole producers, whether they are a white or red wine lover.

I love the new wines by L’Ecole. Don’t miss out on the 2022 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Evergreen Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which has plenty of freshness and mouth-watering acidity. The best wine I tasted and one of the finest I have ever had from L’Ecole is their 2020 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Cellar Selection Ferguson Vineyard’ Red Wine (OB, 96) which is a complete stunner and shows massive cellaring potential with its very stony profile. I am really excited where this winery is headed. Learn more about this outstanding winery at http://lecole.com/ Here are the great new wines by L’Ecole No. 41.

2022 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Columbia Valley’ Chardonnay- Consistently one of the great value Chardonnays of the Pacific Northwest, the 2022 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Columbia Valley’ Chardonnay was sourced from the Schmitt, Evergreen, Stillwater Creek, Coyote Canyon, and Oasis Vineyards. Ripe and fat on the mouth, this delivers heady banana, Pink Lady apple and starfruit flavors alongside baking spices and a bright sense of tension. Really good now, enjoy this sensational value over the next five to seven years to come. Drink 2023-2029- 92

2022 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Evergreen Vineyard’ Chardonnay- For years the Evergreen Vineyard in the Ancient Lakes AVA has been one of the premier sites for Chardonnay in the state. This version is chalk-filled with finesse, as green apple, papaya and stony minerals all greet you on the palate, with a seamless mouthfeel. Really good now, this has both the tension and weight to cellar well for another seven plus years. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2022 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Columbia Valley’ Semillon- The seriously good 2022 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Columbia Valley’ Semillon was stored in mostly neural oak barrels and was given constant battonage before bottling. The wine is beautifully textured, with good weight and bright underlying acidity. Beeswax and cantaloupe flavors combine with shades of green papaya and juicy pear on the palate. Stony undercurrents add to the intrigue as this is best enjoyed now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2027- 92

2022 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Old Vines Upland Vineyard’ Chenin Blanc- Coming from vines planted in the late 1970s Upland Vineyards is farmed by the Newhouse family. This edition of this wine is very rich and viscous with great underlying finesse. Honey and rich melon flavors combine with Pazzaz apple, white peach and stony undertones. Enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next seven years to come. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2022 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Luminesce Seven Hills Vineyard’ White Wine- The 2022 ‘Luminesce’ combines Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc from the acclaimed Seven Hills Vineyards, set on the foothills of the Bluewood Mountains. Stored in only 15% new oak barrels, this offers a soft texture with layers of Granny Smith apple, mango and honeysuckle water alongside banana, baking spices and suggestions of shortbread on the palate. Complex and delicious to consume now, this beauty has some solid aging potential. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2020 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Apogee’ Red Wine- The ‘Apogee’ has been made by L’Ecole since 1993. This edition combines 56% Cabernet Sauvignon with 28% Merlot and smaller parts Malbec and Cabernet Franc.Stored in 40% new French oak for 22 months, this offers tar, tobacco leaf and red bell pepper notes on the nose with blackberry pie. The palate is fresh and lithe with a polished texture. Showing good weight, this offers nice pencil lead and espresso ground flavors alongside a dense core of dark fruits. A beautiful wine made in a tough vintage, savor this now and over the next seven years to come. Give this an hour or two in the decanter if enjoy in its youth. Drink 2023-2030- 95

2020 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Perigee’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Perigee’ was entirely sourced from the Seven Hills Vineyard. Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (54%) with 24% Merlot and the remainder Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Malbec, this was stored in 40% new French oak barrels before bottling. Sandalwood notes combine with Asian spice and rich dark currants with dark chocolate shavings on the nose. The palate is fresh and rich with great tension and flavor density. Just like the 2020 ‘Apogee’ this beautiful Bordeaux style wine really needs about two hours in the decanter to fully get going. Drink 2023-2030- 95

2020 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Cellar Selection Ferguson Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- 2020 marked the 40th anniversary for L’Ecole No. 41, as this head-turning Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from the Estate Ferguson Vineyard, named after winery founders Baker and Jean Ferguson. The vineyard is one of the great sites in Washington with 30 planted acres, having vines uniquely set on broken basalt rock (from 15 million year old lava flows) with a thin layer of loess soil on top. This commemorative wine is arguably the finest wine I have ever tasted from this estate. Stored in 40% new French oak barrels for 22 months before bottling, the wine comes off initially very wound up and nervy, as this really needs about two hours in the decanter to fully evolve. Crushed wet rock combines with violets, tar, anise and shades of creme de cassis all brilliantly meld together on the nose. The palate is rich and vicious with a sensational sense of tension, weight, length and rocky undertones. The terroir here is nothing short of world-class. Like all wines I taste from this challenging vintage, I recommend drinking over the next five to seven years. Give this beauty at least an hour in the decanter if savoring in its heady youth. Kudos to head winemaker Marcus Rafanelli on this crowning achievement. Drink 2023-2031- 96

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Here is the outstanding new 2021 Dossier Cabernet Sauvignon.

Dossier

September 25, 2023

My ears picked up several years back when talking with Dossier co-founder Tim Lenihan. “Sidney and I have been thinking of starting a winery” he said. I thought to myself that this project would have massive potential. This brand has quite frankly taken the Washington wine scene by storm since its inception.

Dossier holds incredible events at top spots in Seattle like The Nest rooftop bar at the Thompson Hotel. It took some time but former NFL star Sidney Rice and businessman and fellow Whitman grad Tim Lenihan finally got the nerve to start their own winery. They are also working on a brand new and modern tasting room in Walla Walla that I am really excited to check out. Look for that spot to open in a month or so. It has been more than a decade since I have enjoyed the great wines made by master of wine, Billo Naravane. Naravane makes the beautiful wines of Rasa Vineyards. Each bottling has incredible intension and attention to detail. Longtime Washington wine industry veteran Brandon Kubrock serves as general manager, formerly owning his own Ardor Cellars label.

Naravane has his best releases yet for fall 2022. The 2021 Dossier Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 96) is best wine from this house that I have tasted yet. Sultry and rich with layers of head dark fruits, this beauty will live on for another two decades. Learn more about this exciting new project at dossierwine.com and here are my reviews of the new Dossier wines.

2022 Dossier Sauvignon Blanc- The 2022 Dossier Sauvignon Blanc was stored in a combination of new and used French oak, stainless steel and concrete eggs.This saw monthly battonage which heavily contributed to the outstanding mouthfeel. Mostly coming from the Connor Lee Vineyard, this offers nutmeg dusted brioche tones alongside banana, and lime zest. The palate is round and generous with a silky mouthfeel and loads of mouth-watering acidity. Drink 2023-2039-93

2021 Dossier Red Blend- A downright killer value, the 2021 Red Blend combines 36% Cabernet Sauvignon with 25% Merlot with the remainder Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Stored in 40% new French oak barrels, this offers tobacco leaf, red bell pepper, anise and black currant flavors that combine with hints of espresso grounds. Very approachable and soft on the mouth, with a generous mouthfeel, this is gorgeous stuff that is already drinking beautifully now. Drink 2023-2035- 94

2021 Dossier ‘Flagship’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 Dossier ‘Flagship’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning wine that mostly comes from the Ciel du Cheval and Summit View vineyards. Stored in 60% new French oak for 22 months, this offers incredibly complex aromatics of espresso grounds, mocha, tar and Asian spices with creme de violette. The palate is tannic and massive, showing very broad shoulders, with Turkish coffee and scorched earthy notes alongside a massive core of black and blue fruit flavors. Totally stunning and delicious, this has some serious aging potential, as this will easily be a 20 year wine. Drink 2024-2040- 96

2021 Dossier ‘Flagship Index’ Red Wine- The ‘Flagship Index’ is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with smaller portions Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc that was stored in 65% new French oak for 21 months before bottle. The nose is incredibly complex with anise and black currant notes alongside milk chocolate notes. The palate is soft and ripe with silky tannins that combine with the gorgeous core of black forest cake, coffee grounds, graphite and sandalwood notes. Powerful and showing good verve, this beauty will cellar well for another twenty years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 95

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Here is the brilliant new 2021 ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir by Argyle.

Argyle 'Nuthouse' Pinot Noir Vertical Tasting

September 21, 2023

Back in the early 2000s I first visited Argyle. The winery was getting some exceptional scores by Wine Spectator’s Oregon Critic, Harvey Steinman, and I had to check the wines out for myself. My first visit was in 2002 when they had a very small, rustic tasting room that looks nothing like the huge, modern facility that they have today. Tastings were held at their ‘Nuthouse’ outpost where people would have a chance to taste a range of their wines, including their top ‘Nuthouse’ bottlings.

I joined their wine club because I quickly became enamored by the wines. Rollin Soles was making some of the most electric Pinot Noir and sparkling wines that you would find in North America. Wines were well-balanced, with moderate oak and plenty of decadent red fruit flavors. As I was in grad school in San Diego, I shared these wines with my friends in my tasting group and they all agreed how incredible the top Argyle wines were.

Fast forward twenty plus years later I again descended on the Willamette Valley and had an early morning visit to Argyle with winemaker Nate Klostermann. He graciously shared a range of ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noirs that reminded me of the wines that I tasted when I was a wine club member. This was an incredible treat for me as these wines held remarkably well despite some being nearly twenty years of age.

Case in point, the 2005 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) has a long way to go still. Ripe and fleshy with remarkable flavor complexity and a smooth mouthfeel, this beauty is right in its sweet spot. A wine with serious potential is the gorgeous 2021 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) which has massive potential and is still exceedingly primary. I can’t wait to revisit this beauty in about eight years, as it will live on for another fifteen plus. Learn more about these outstanding wines at argylewinery.com and here are my tasting notes from a sensational tasting of Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir.

2021 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 ‘Nuthouse’ is a totally stunning new wine by winemaker Nate Klostermann that is mainly sourced from the Lone Star Vineyard. Showing a deep hue in the glass, this offers lavender and red currant tones on the nose alongside clay soils and shades of strawberry Starburst candy. Broad-shouldered and beautifully textured, with serious weight and fantastic underlying finesse, this is a delicious and complex new bottling that has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2040- 95

2015 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir- Entirely sourced from the Lone Star Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills, the 2015 ‘Nuthouse’ is showing a dazzling bouquet right now. Exotic spices and beautiful red florals combine with salty soils, dense red fruits and Linzer torte notes. The palate is dense and heady with chewy and salty red fruit flavors alongside wild mushroom and peat moss notes. A total stunner, with a seamless mouthfeel and bright underlying acidity, this is a beautiful showing now at the eight year mark. Drink 2023-2031- 95

2013 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir- The stunning 2013 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir comes from this challenging vintage which was marred by torrential rains at harvest. This bottling comes from the Lone Star vineyard as this was picked before the rains. This comes off considerably leaner than the first two wines, this is very delicate, showing nice secondary notes of forest floor and pine needles. This is a really strong wine considering the vintage. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2008 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir- Coming from this well-balanced vintage, the 2008 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir is a really great wine made from this great vintage. Fresh and vibrant this displays light tannins that frame a beautiful core of dark fruits with black truffle and peat moss tones with shades of Christmas spice. This is right in its sweet spot now as this beauty still has a long way to go. Drink 2023-2031- 95

2005 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir- The brilliant 2005 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir is a total joy to drink right now. This is showing beautiful savory tones with a pretty core of red fruits alongside white truffle shavings, pomegranate seed, freshly tilled soils and shades of dried herbs. This is absolutely delicious stuff that has stood the test of time. Drink 2023-2030- 95

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Here are the stunning Chardonnays from the 2016, 2018, 2018 and 2021 vintages by Smith-Madrone.

Smith-Madrone Chardonnay Vertical Tasting

September 21, 2023

A winery that keeps under the radar, Smith-Madrone has been dry-farming on Spring Mountain since 1971. It was this high-elevation site set on Aiken Stoney Clay loam that drew the Smiths to this region. They saw the potential for Cabernet Sauvignon here but also Riesling and Chardonnay. For my palate the Smith-Madrone Chardonnay has been a pillar of consistency.

It is the diligence of Stuart Smith that led to such great wines as he chose specific slopes with different exposures for specific varietals when planting the vineyards: eastern exposure for Riesling, southern and western exposures across flat stretches for the Cabernet Sauvignon and the coolest north-facing slopes for the Chardonnay. The estate is a 200 acre ranch, partly planted as vineyard over a century ago. California black bears and other wildlife once thrived here as did 120-year-old Picholine olive trees which frame a path and view down to the floor of the Napa Valley. This is an incredible hillside property that is an absolute gem to visit. Wines are made in a balanced style, with good ripeness but also excellent freshness.

I recently had the chance to review the Chardonnays from this site as a special vertical tasting. I’ve really enjoyed these releases but I was curious how they aged. The way that the wines are made with serious texture, weight and bright acidly, make Chardonnay from this site particularly age-worthy.

Right now definitely peaking, the 2016 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay (OB, 93) is soft and generous, slowly getting into nutty and earthy tones. Just as good was the incredible 2018 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is even richer and more viscous, as this beauty will go for another eight plus years. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://www.smithmadrone.com Here are my reviews of the beautiful Chardonnays by Smith-Madrone.

2016 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay- It is such a pleasure revisiting this warm vintage beauty, the 2016 Chardonnay by Smith-Madrone. Vines for this wine are set on Aiken Stoney Clay loam, part of the Aiken, Kidd, Forward complex of soils which are volcanic-based and well-drained. Aged for nine months in 80% new French oak, this offers complex aromas of toasted hazelnuts alongside brioche and hints of bananas foster, giving us plenty of allure. The palate is wonderfully concentrated and very smooth, as this glides throughout the drinking experience offering buttercream, Meyer lemon zest, mango and roasted pineapple notes alongside nutty and flinty undertones. Equally complex and delicious, this is a stunning wine that is right at its peak. Drink 2023-2029- 93

2018 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay- The 2018 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay is a gorgeous offering that looks bright and bold in the glass. This standout Chardonnay saw considerably less new French oak (55%) than the ’16 bottling. It offers very bright acidity with loads of mouth-watering acidity once on the mouth. Layers of peach and lime zest combine with suggestions of vanilla cream, baking spice dusted pear and salted Macadamia nut all enter the fold. Full-bodied, neatly textured and full of tension, this has a long way to go still in the cellar. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2019 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay- The new Fall 2023 release for this winery comes from the 2019 vintage which saw relatively even warmth throughout the growing season. Dry-farmed vines for this wine come from the Spring Mountain District as this is a fantastic new bottling made by winemaker Charles Smith. The nose is really fantastic with toasty oak alongside Marcona almond, nectarine, marzipan and shades of Pazzaz apple. The palate is soft and decadent with a great underlying verve. Layers of buttercream alongside copious minerals, kumquat rind and Brazil nut all combine on the palate. Well-balanced and showing a soft mouthfeel, with a lengthy finish, enjoy this beauty now and over the next eight years to come. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay- The very pretty and future release 2021 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay is a wine with some great potential. Right now things are in impeccable balance. On the nose this shows off lime blossom notes alongside wet stone, papaya and suggestions of cardamom spice. The right amount of melon and citrus fruits greet you on the palate, with great nerve and a very long finish. Really just an infant now, with its stony accents, this needs a year or two in the bottle to fully unveil itself. Drink 2024-2033- 93

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Here are the outstanding 2020 wines by Cadence.

Cadence

September 21, 2023

Today we share a Washington wine icon. Now in their 25th year, Ben Smith (http://owenbargreen.com/benjamin-smith-cadence) together with his wife Gaye McNutt have been making exceptional, cellar-worthy bottlings from some of the state’s great sites. These wines age so gracefully and I had a chance to taste older vintages with both Gaye and Ben in the spring, proving more evidence how these wines are so stable and delicious after many years in the cellar. It has now been more than a decade that they planted their own vineyard on Red Mountain, the Cara Mia Vineyard, where most of their wines come from. I’ve enjoyed tasting these wines at the ten year mark where they seem to start collecting secondary characteristics.

Just as I enjoyed the 2019 wines from a tough vintage, this new set of releases come from the even tougher 2020 vintage. These are wines that you can buy with confidence as they all come off clean. As with any wines that I review from 2020, they are wines to be enjoyed now.

I think that you would be hard pressed to find a better value than the 2021 Cadence ‘Coda’ Red Wine (OB, 92) which shows good richness and flavor range. I adored the 2020 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine (OB, 95) which is a remarkable achievement in this vintage and definitely is one of the standout wines produced. Learn more about this great winery at cadencewinery.com  and here are my reviews of the the beautiful new wines by Cadence.

2021 Cadence ‘Coda’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Coda’ combines nearly all Cabernet Franc and Merlot with small parts Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon. This shows pretty red florals from the Cabernet Franc. Garrigue and red bell pepper combines with wild blackberry and hints of wild mushroom on the nose. The palate is silky and smooth with a terrific mouthfeel. Very ripe for this winery, this is downright delicious juice that is best consumed now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2020 Cadence ‘Cara Mia Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 ‘Cara Mia Vineyard’ is a truly great wine from a tough vintage. 100% varietal, this displays good purity and balance, with a seamless texture. Layers of juicy red fruits brighten this wine, with scorched earth, boysenberry and dark chocolate shaving flavors. Seriously delicious, and well-structure, this clearly has the weight and finesse to go on for another decade. But why wait? This is a perfect example of trusting your producer in a hard vintage. Drink 2023-2029- 94

2020 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Camerata’ is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (67%) with the remainder Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The nose shows off red bell pepper tones alongside anise, black currants and shades of sandalwood. The palate is soft, refined and generous with plenty of richness and underlying finesse. Coming off clean with a beautiful range of black fruit flavors alongside graphite, dried herbs and refined tannins, this is a world-class wine made in a tough vintage. Like any great wine made in this vintage, no reason to cellar. Drink 2023-2031- 95

2020 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- A consistently fantastic wine in the Cadence lineup, the 2020 ‘Bel Canto’ is a Right Bank inspired blend of 73% Cabernet Franc with the remainder Merlot. Chocolate cake and shades of pencil lead all fill the nose with purple red petals and shades of lilac. The palate is fresh and viscous with lovely herbal undertones and fantastic finesse. Tar and black licorice notes mark the palate alongside a core of beautiful red fruits and tobacco leaf. This is quite simply a joy to drink right now, as this is best enjoyed over the next seven plus years. Drink 2023-2030- 95

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Great photo of Cherie and Philippe Melka, proprietors of Melka Estates.

Melka Estates

September 20, 2023

I obviously have a thing for great California wines. One of the fantastic boutique producers out of Napa, Melka Estates relies on the talents of Philippe and Cherie Melka. Melka Estates is a limited production winery that sources from some amazing sites including La Mekerra in Sonoma and Jumping Goat in Napa Valley. They also make a world-class Syrah from Paso Robles. A man needing no introduction, Philippe Melka is a Bordeaux native that has a master’s degree in enology. He has a long resume, with previous stops at Château Haut Brion, as well as Dominus Estate and various stints in Australia and even Chateau Petrus. He has been in Napa on a full time basis since 1994 and has served as consulting winemaker at some of the great wineries in Napa, Sonoma and Washington State. There is little doubt that he is truly one of the great consulting winemakers in the world. Philippe partners with his wife, Cherie, to craft the wines. She also has a highly impressive resume with previous stops Ridge Vineyards prior to starting Melka Estates. She handles all business decisions for Melka as well as helps with the blending. Having tasted with Cherie on several occasions, she has an incredible knowledge of Napa and the surrounding areas to craft wines with terroir and serious texture.

The Melkas hold their wines back considerably more than most Napa houses. The wines I tasted were from the 2018 and 2019 vintages. One of the great new world Sauvignon Blanc wines that I have tasted in the past year, the 2018 Melka Estates ‘La Mekerra Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 96) is a red wine lover’s rendition of this varietal. Big, bold and seamless with serious texture and flavor complexity, this is a total stunner that is a must-purchase for any lover of Sav Blanc. Even better is the incredible 2018 Melka Estates ‘Metisse’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 97) which comes from the Martinez Vineyard in the Napa Valley. Bold and brooding, with serious refinement and concentration, this beauty is absolutely a joy to consume right now in its heady youth. I think you will really be impressed with these new wines. Learn more at https://www.melkaestates.com Here are my reviews of the new Melka Estates wines. 

2018 Melka Estates ‘La Mekerra Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc- This beautiful wine is a barrel selection wine using several clonal selections of Sauvignon Blanc that saw some battonage. This bottling is wonderfully textured with serious weight and tension. Gooseberry and bright green apple combine with suggestions of baking spice dusted brioche notes combine on the palate. Stored in roughly 60% new French oak (cigar barrels), this finishes very long. Enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 96

2019 Melka Estates ‘Majestique’ Syrah- This inky colored Syrah comes form the famed Paderewski Vineyard which is farmed by Epoch. The wine displays a dazzling array of flavors from black olive tapenade, smoked brisket, violets, creme de cassis and shades of tar. The wine effortlessly glides throughout the drinking experience. Concentrated and weightless, this is delicious wine that is best consumed now and over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 96

2019 Melka Estates ‘CJ’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 ‘CJ’ is named after the Melka’s children, as this has been produced since 1996. Cabernet Sauvignon dominant with small parts Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, that comes from a host of vineyards throughout the Napa Valley. Immediately gratifying on the palate, this shows beautiful concentration and structure, with a smooth texture. Enjoy this now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2018 Melka Estates ‘Metisse’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The stunning 2018 Melka Estates ‘Metisse’ comes from the Martinez Vineyard in the Napa Valley. A combination of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon with 23% Cabernet Franc and the remainder Petit Verdot, this delivers serious concentration and verve, with a silky mouthfeel and beautiful dark florals on the nose. The herbal and structure from the Petit Verdot is shining through. Creme de violette, mocha, anise and green herbs combine with massive blue fruit flavors. This is going to be at least a twenty year wine. Drink 2023-2043- 97

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Here is one of the thrilling 2018 Chardonnays by Big Table Farm.

Big Table Farm Chardonnay Retrospective

September 19, 2023

For years I have admired the wines of Big Table Farm, a boutique winery started by Clare Carver and Brian Marcy. Year after year they produce a rocking set of releases. They even did a fantastic job navigating the conditions of 2020. Many of you know that I am crazy for top Oregon Chardonnay. People are stuck in the sand if they do not admire the top Chardonnay bottlings that Oregon offers. These wines at their best show serious tension with beautiful fruit and non-fruit profiles and a lengthy finish.

Winemaker Brian Marcy knows a thing or two about Chardonnay. Prior to his time at Big Table Farm he was making some beautiful Chardonnay wines in Napa for Neyers. These wines showed good balance despite the heat of each vintage. The same is true with his approach to Chardonnay in Oregon. The wines are highly age worthy and show beautiful fruit flavors, with good tension and length. Oregon Chardonnay at its best ages gracefully.

Over the past few months I have had a chance to reach into my cellar and taste through some of the older Chardonnay bottlings by Big Table Farm. These are wines that are aging gracefully and will easily sit for ten plus years. I particularly loved the 2018 Big Table Farm ‘Eola-Amity Hills’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which is big and bold, showing great weight and good underlying tension, with a near minute-long finish. Without further adieu here are my notes from some cellar selections — beautiful Chardonnays by Big Table Farm. Learn more about Big Table Farm at http://www.bigtablefarm.com/

2019 Big Table Farm ‘The Wild Bee’ Chardonnay- The 2019 ‘The Wild Bee’ is at a really nice spot right now. It is full of verve and comes off very differently than the ’18 bottling. Full of nerve, this shows fantastic underlying acidity and salty tones alongside bright pear, sweetened peach and shades of wet stone with pastry crust notes on the palate. Showing good length this beauty has another eight plus years to go. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2018 Big Table Farm ‘Eola-Amity Hills’ Chardonnay- I am enamored with where the 2018 ‘Eola-Amity Hills’ Chardonnay is drinking right now. It is big, bold and layered, yet does not come off at all heavy. Showing the richness from this warm vintage, the soft texture really entices, as does the marvelous length of the wine. Baked apple and starfruit notes combine with vanilla cream, nutmeg dusted brioche and shades of flint on the palate. The near minute-long finish is a real show-stopper. Drink 2023-2031- 94

2018 Big Table Farm ‘Yamhill-Carlton’ Chardonnay- Slightly less bold but every bit as delicious as the 2018 ‘Eola-Amity Hills’ bottling, the 2018 Big Table Farm ‘Yamhill-Carlton’ Chardonnay is just a joy to consume now at the five year mark. Once on the nose this takes on juicy nectarine tones alongside baking spices, lime blossom and suggestions of wild mushroom. The palate also shows light earthy notes of white truffle that combine with its rich core citrus and orchard fruits. Enjoy now and over the next five to seven years to come. Drink 2023-2030- 94

2017 Big Table Farm ‘The Wild Bee’ Chardonnay- Lemon rind notes combine with shades of marzipan and nutty accents on the nose to this fantastic 2017 Chardonnay. Softly textured, and showing good nerve, with mouth-watering acidity, this glides throughout the drinking experience delivering stony nuances that mingle well with the smooth mouthfeel. Finishing long with kumquat zest and copious minerals, this beauty is drinking marvelously now and will easily last another eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

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Woodward Canyon produces a very diverse lineup of outstanding Washington wines that I have now tasted for over two decades.

Woodward Canyon

September 19, 2023

It is always a pleasure visiting the wines of Woodward Canyon. These are wines that are complete, with a beginning, middle and an end. I’ve enjoyed these for decades and I had a chance to sit down with second generation vintner, Sager Small and talk about his new wines. Tasting with Sager Small he shared his thoughts about the 2021 and 2022 vintages. “2021 was really warm and it was that heat dome year. You turn the heat up that year but 2022 was more in line with historical temperatures. Like this year, 2023, it steadily goes up and then it peaks and then comes down. I prefer this year and 2022 because you hit the high point and then it is even. A bit early to call this vintage but you have ripening that is even.” He admitted that he is very bullish on the new vintage, stating that what has been harvested looks fantastic so far.

He stated “The heat can do strange things to vines and makes it difficult in years like 2021. High heat events just keep the vines at stasis and try to keep the vines alive. I think that those things can make less than ideal wines. But we are in a windier site which contributes to smaller berry size and that shifts the ratio from skin to fruit and concentration wise you get a bit more Merlot from our Merlots because of our site.”

We tasted through his 2022 white wines, which he was really proud of. “These are balanced wines which I really enjoy” he stated. “We are obviously not doing Loire, which I love” he said “but this Sauvignon Blanc has that feel” he explained. As I tasted the 2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 92) I loved the grassy notes in the wine that showed also a smooth mouthfeel. This is one of the great Sauvignon Blanc wines made in Washington. Even better was his fantastic 2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which is one of the finest wines of its kind in the state. This beauty is sure to satisfy any lover of Pacific Northwest Chardonnay. Learn more about these fantastic new wines at woodwardcanyon.com and here are my reviews of the beautiful new wines by Woodward Canyon.

2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc is a gorgeous effort that shows plenty of intensity and bright underlying acidity. This was native-fermented in stainless steel and then aged in neutral oak before bottling. At this site they have both Loire and Bordeaux clonal selection Sauvignon Blanc vines. Gooseberry, lime zest, damp freshly cut grass and green papaya flavors combine with wet stone and serious texture on the palate. Drink 2023-2029- 92

2022 Woodward Canyon ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay- The 2022 ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay comes from Wente clone estate plantings that date back to 1977. Stored in 20% new French oak, this is another seriously good Woodward Chardonnay bottling from this slightly cooler vintage. Juicy nectarine, vanilla cream, roasted pineapple and shades of Macadamia nut all emerge on the palate, with great underlying finesse. Extremely well-balanced, this is a joy to consume right now. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2021 Woodward Canyon ‘Mourvedre-Grenache-Syrah’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Mourvedre-Grenache-Syrah’ combines 50% Syrah with equal parts Mourvèdre and Grenache that was sourced from their estate vineyard. Stored in a small portion of new oak barrels, this offers white pepper dusted bacon, black olives, blackberry and shades of creosote on the nose. This is wonderfully balanced with good poise. Every working part here is moving in unison. Only 201 cases made. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2021 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Merlot- The 2021 ‘Merlot’ was stored in 40% new French  oak befrore bottling. 100% varietal, this offers a smooth texture with red bell pepper, milk chocolate, anise and shades of black licorice on the palate. Salty and savory, with a soft mouthfeel, this is absolutely delicious right now. Drink 2023-2036- 94

2021 Woodward Canyon ‘Artist Series #30’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A pleasure to drink right now,  the 2021 Woodward Canyon ‘Artist Series #30’ Cabernet Sauvignon was stored in 60% new French oak before bottling. Nearly all Cabernet Sauvignon (87%) this was mostly sourced from the Weinbau Vineyard. A plush layer of toasty oak greets you on the mid-palate, with good underlying verve. Rich mocha and creme de cassis flavors mingle well with Turkish coffee accents and dusty tannins on the palate. Drink 2023-2037- 93

2021 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Cabernet Franc- Stored in 30% new French oak, this was native-fermented as this comes from a range of estate blocks. Gorgeous red bell pepper, green peppercorns, anise and violets come into play on the nose. Seamless and soft with great richness and a fantastic core of black fruit flavors, this is elegant, well-balanced Cabernet Franc that will surely live on for another fifteen plus years to come. This might be the finest edition of this wine that I have tasted. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2021 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate Reserve’ Red WIne- The ‘Estate Reserve’ is sourced from what the winemaking team feels is the best lots from the year. The blend is 38% Cabernet Sauvignon with 27% Cabernet Franc and the remainder Malbec, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Highly perfumed with beautiful red florals, this leads with serious tension and a smooth mouthfeel. Layers of espresso grinds and dark currants combine with tar and anise notes. Simply gorgeous, this has both the finesse and weight to cellar well for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2021 Woodward Canyon ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘Old Vines’ is a stunning new wine by winemaker Kevin Mott. Refined tannins frame a gorgeous wall of black and blue fruit flavors with Arabica bean, sandalwood and notes of scorched earth. Showing serious length, weight and verve, enjoy this beauty now and over the next twenty years. Drink 2023-2040- 96

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Great photo of the late Long Shadows founder Allen Shoup.

Long Shadows

September 18, 2023

It is always a pleasure chatting with Long Shadows winemaker Gilles Nicault. He has been crafting some of the finest wines in Washington State now for many years. He’s witnessed many winemaking challenges, with the cold weather of 2011 and also some difficulties with 2019. That vintage was not easy with the freeze events in early October. Nicault remarked “We were so fortunate that we were a bit late going in terms of growing season and no heat spikes, a perfect growing season and September in 2019 was really beautiful” said Gilles. “In early October we had harvested and the freeze came when we were done. A few blocks we were not harvested yet but that was it.” Gilles noted “We did not have ripeness issues in 2019. Only with the Mourvèdre in 2019 for the Cote Nicault because I had to do a very firm selection of that. I took the best of the best.” Tasting through several of the 2019 wines that he made, there was plenty of dense dark fruit flavors. These are standout wines from this vintage.

We chatted about vintages to come, which excites Nicault particularly about the potential of red and white wines made in 2022.“ We only had one pick in October and I was worried about the vintage and then it started warming which helped so much, I had never seen such a beautiful fall. Instead of being rainy or cold at night it was just perfect weather for us and the fruit continued to hang and we had beautiful fruit” he said.

Long Shadows was formerly built on partnerships with other wineries but now Nicault is making all of the wines. “We have a great relationship with our growers and I think that shows in the wines” he said. The quality in the glass shows, as he has crafted another sensational range of wines for the Long Shadows program. We would also be remiss without sending out a tribute to the late Washington wine pioneer Allen Shoup. Shoup is a founding father of the Washington wine industry. He spent 20 years building Château Ste. Michelle and its affiliate wineries, serving as the company's CEO for 17 of those years before establishing Long Shadows in 2002. He had an incredible vision for Long Shadows and built a world-class wine brand from the ground up.

I adored the new 2022 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling (OB, 94) which is arguably the finest Riesling made in Washington. This shows gobs of finesse with a silky texture and just the slightest semblance of sweetness. Don’t miss out on the 2019 Long Shadows ‘Pirouette’ Red Wine (OB, 96) which utilizes five Bordeaux varietals and displays both elegance and richness with fantastic underlying tension. Learn more about these famed wines at longshadows.com and here are my reviews of the beautiful new Long Shadows wines.

2022 Long Shadows ‘Cymbal’ Sauvignon Blanc- Stored in stainless steel, concrete tanks, and French oak barrels, the 2022 ‘Cymbal’ comes from 1972 Sauvignon Blanc plantings from Bacchus Vineyard, as well as some from Boushey and Gamache Vineyard. This shows incredible texture and sense of weight with bright acidity with gooseberry and melon tones, as well as baking spices and Pink Lady apple flavors. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2022 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling- The 2022 ‘Poet’s Leap’ mainly comes from the Gamache Vineyard with vines that were planted in the 1980s. This wine was originally made in conjunction with German producer Armand Diehl. Only 1 G/L sugar, this Trocken style has fantastic tension with petrol, lemon/lime zest, juicy white peach, wet stone and shades of Gravenstein apple. Nicely textured, this is gorgeous stuff that is amongst the finest made in Washington State. Drink 2023-2030- 94

2021 Long Shadows ‘Dance’ Chardonnay-  The outstanding 2021 ‘Dance’ Chardonnay is mostly sourced from the Gamache, Boushey and French Creek Vineyards. Stored in cement eggs as well as neutral and new French oak barrels, this is a stunning new wine that did not undergo full malolactic fermentation. Right away toasty oak and melon tones fill the nose alongside lemon zest and shades of creme brûlée. The palate is silky smooth and refined with incredible elegance and richness. Finishing extremely long, with good freshness, this is delicious Chardonnay to savor now and over the next ten years to come. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2019 Long Shadows ‘Sequel’ Syrah- This 100% varietal ‘Sequel’ underweight 33% whole cluster fermentation and was stored in 65% new French oak for 18 months before bottling. The nose shows a dusting of white pepper with smoked meats, Kalamata olives, bacon fat and shades of boysenberry cordial. This shows great freshness and stuffing with very dense and hedonistic black fruit flavors alongside savory and salty notes. Finishing long, this is gorgeous Syrah that will live on for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2019 Long Shadows ‘Pedestal’ Merlot- The 2019 ‘Pedestal’ Merlot was stored in 80% new French oak for 22 months before bottling. Black Forest Cake and espresso grounds fill the nose alongside sandalwood tones. Silky on the mouth and showing refined tannins, this packs a punch despite the coolness of the vintage. The oak caresses the palate as the wine revels in its dense cassis, tar and black cherry cordial flavors alongside dark chocolate shavings. This has some terrific aging potential and give this an hour in the decanter if enjoying now. Drink 2023-2040- 95

2019 Long Shadows ‘Pirouette’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The brilliant 2019 Long Shadows ‘Pirouette’ Red Wine combines 56% Cabernet Sauvignon 33% Merlot and the reminder Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The wine was stored in 75% new French oak before bottling. Very pure dark fruits combine dark chocolate shavings, green herbs, anise and creme de cassis. The palate is dense and chewy with refined tannins that frame a massive core of black and blue fruit flavors. Everything is wonderfully in balance here. Kudos to Gilles Nicault who has crafted another masterpiece in a difficult vintage for Bordeaux varietals. Drink 2023-2040- 96

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Here are some of the great new wines by Moonbase Cellars.

Moonbase Cellars

September 17, 2023

I always get geared up when I am sent brand new wines from a brand new winery. Laine Pauk and Drew Pauk recently founded Moonbase Cellars to produce a range of red wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. This Walla Walla winery largely sources from Rocks District sites.

Originally from St. Louis, Laine and Drew each pursued careers in their respective fields – Drew in business management, Laine as a pharmacist. As time went on, they developed a passion for wine that took them to famous vineyards both at home and abroad. Drew obtained multiple wine certifications, including Certified Specialist in Wine (CSW) and Certified Wine Educator (CWE) from the Society of Wine Educators, and Certified Sommelier (CS) from the Guild of Master Sommeliers. They first visited Eastern Washington in 2016 and were enamored by the land. One year later they moved to Walla Walla and founded Moonbase in 2019. Drew worked with and learned winemaking via WWCC Enology and Viticulture program along with many vintages at Saviah learning from Richard Funk.  Richard sells a range of estate fruit to Drew for his wines.

The new wines were outstanding across the board. I love the new 2021 Moonbase ‘The LGM’ Red Wine (OB, 93) which is fresh and shows good concentration with great flavor range. The best wine I tasted was the incredible 2021 Moonbase ‘The Funk Vineyard’ Syrah (OB, 94) which beautifully showcases this very special vineyard in the Rocks District. Check out more at moonbasecellars.com and here are my reviews of the new wines from Moonbase Cellars.

 

2021 Moonbase Viognier- Coming form the esteemed Les Collines Vineyard, this comes off very smooth and soft on the mouth, this delivers plenty of texture and weight, with outstanding length. Crushed wet rock tones combine with cantaloupe, nectarine skin and shades of key lime on the palate. Well-balanced and elegant, this is drinking beautifully in its heady youth. Drink 2023-2029- 92

2021 Moon Lapse Red Wine- The 2021 Moon Lapse offers a smooth texture with ripe red currants, black olives, and blackberry flavors on the palate, with flinty undertones. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 90

2021 Moonbase Mourvedre- Th 2021 Moonbase Mourvedrewas sourced from the famed Ciel du Cheval Vineyard on Red Mountain. This is smoky and soft, with a generous mouthfeel and plenty of texture alongside mouth-watering acidity. Red raspberry and black plum flavors mingle well with scorched earth, tar and smoked meats on the palate. Only 71 cases made. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2021 Moonbase ‘The LGM’ Red Wine- This GSM inspired blend comes from very different sites — the Riviere Galet, Les Collines and Ciel du Cheval Vineyards. Stored in neutral oak barrels, the rocking stony character really shines here, as wet stone and Yakima cherry fruits combine with bacon fat, dried herbs and shades of creosote all parade on the palate. This is seriously good, as you can see each varietal working in unison like a Swiss-made watch. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Moonbase ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2021 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah was stored for 18 months in al neutral oak prior to bottling. This is dusty, earthy and concentrated Syrah that beautifully showcases this site. Dried sage and thyme combine with suggestions of wet stone, anise and cassis flavors. Very complex and delicious to consume now, enjoy over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Moonbase ‘River Rock Vineyard’ Syrah- Coming from this site in the Walla Walla Rocks District, the 2021 ‘River Rock Vineyard’ Syrah offers Umami and green olives on the palate that collide with wet gravel, juicy blackberry and shades of tar. Smooth and round on the mouth, this is really nicely evolved already. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Moonbase ‘Funk Vineyard’ Syrah- The acclaimed ‘Funk Vineyard’ was planted and created by iconic winemaker Richard Funk of Saviah. This 2021 Syrah from the Rocks District is very salty and savory with a smooth mouthfeel and loads of mouth-watering acidity, this is an outstanding example from this site. Nori and rich dark fruit flavors combine with milk chocolate, smoked brisket and shades of smoldering stones on the palate. A total knockout, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next eight plus years to come. Drink 2023-2031- 94

2021 Moonbase ‘Riviere Galet Vineyard’ Tempranillo- Only 78 cases made of this awesome new 2021Tempranillo that was sourced from the Walla Walla Rocks District. Hoisin sauce, worn leather and smoked meats all brilliantly combine with a silky texture on the palate. Very stony and savory, with loads of mouth-watering acidity, enjoy this beauty now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Moonbase ‘Max Q’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Max Q’ red wine combines Cabernet Sauvignon (50%) with equal parts Merlot and Syrah. Smooth and silky on the mouth, this delivers rich dark fruit flavors with chocolate, coffee grounds, seaweed and suggestions of baking spices on the palate. Showing good length and depth, this is beautifully done stuff that will drink well for another eight plus years to come. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Moonbase Merlot- The 2021 Moonbase Merlot comes from the Winesap Vineyard which is located in the Walla Walla Rocks District. Nicely balanced and poised, this shows off a smooth texture. Layers of boysenberry and roasted fig fruits combine with salty and stony accents on the palate. The flavor density is seriously good, as this is best consumed now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Moonbase Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2021 Moonbase Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from the Seven Hills Vineyard. Nicely structured, this offers medium-bodied dark fruit flavors alongside good tension and length. Nicely done, this is already well-evolved stuff to savor now and over the next eight years to come. Drink 2023-2031- 92

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It is going to be an unforgettable dinner with Bionic Wines and vigneron Christophe Baron on Thursday September 21st at Lark Seattle.

Lark Celebrates 20 Years With Bionic Wines

September 11, 2023

Celebrating nearly twenty years of business, Lark has been one of the jewels of the Pacific Northwest. To celebrate 20 years Chef John Sundstrom’s brings a special wine dinner series to Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood.
Bionic Wines and vigneron Christophe Baron will be hosting a very rare dinner on Thursday September 21st. The wines will be paired with a special meal by former Lark chef Joseph Margate. I can't wait for this special occasion. For more info check out https://www.opentable.com/booking/experiences-availability?experienceId=196614&restref=144256&rid=144256&utm_campaign=shared&utm_medium=referral&utm_source=external

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Great new bubbles by Tirriddis.

Tirriddis

September 11, 2023

I love discovering new wine brands of the Pacific Northwest. Only a couple of years ago Tirriddis began as a project with three friends —Andrew Gerow, Matthew Doutney, and Gabriel Crowell — who were all completing their degree in Viticulture & Enology at WSU Tri-Cities. The name, Tirriddis, derives from Tirage, Riddle, and Disgorge - the three steps to naturally produce sparkling wines. Focused solely on this traditional method, they use unique "non-traditional" styles to emphasize Washington's world class growing environment.

They have done a really nice job with their new range of wines. I love the NV Tirriddis ‘Washington Blend’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 90) which is a kitchen sink blend that is seriously good for the price. Learn more at https://www.tirriddis.com and here are my reviews of the new Tirriddis wines.

NV Tirrisdis ‘Blanc de Gris’ Sparkling Wine- This 100% Columbia Valley Pinot Gris sparkling wine by Tirriddis shows a soft mouthfeel upon approach. This is very well-balanced in terms of ripe fruit flavors and dosage. Honey and marzipan notes collide with bright cantaloupe and baked pear tones on the palate. The wine nicely showcases some of the hallmark characters of Washington Pinot Gris with the melon and pear tones.  Finishing long with minerals, this is a great effort that is already nicely evolved. Enjoy now and over the next five years. Drink 2022-2027- 90

NV Tirriddis ‘Barrel Fermented Blanc de Blanc’ Sparkling Wine- Made from 100% Chardonnay which was mostly sourced from the Rattlesnake Hills AVA, this was given 4.0G/L dosage and was stored in oak barrels before disgorgement. The palate is soft and inviting with a smooth texture. Very fresh with yellow plum, Bergamot and wild mushroom tones, alongside lemon zest accents, this is complex and delicious BDB that is best enjoyed now and over the next five to seven years. Drink 2022-2027- 91

NV Tirriddis ‘Yakima Valley’ Sparkling Wine- The really good NV Tirriddis ‘Yakima Valley’ Sparkling Wine shows marzipan and cardamom dusted brioche tones on the nose, with suggestions of white peach. The palate is soft and inviting with copious minerals alongside shades of wet stone and rich orchard fruits. Enjoy now and over the next five to seven years. Drink 2022-2027- 91

NV Tirriddis ‘Washington Blend’ Sparkling Wine- The kitchen sink ‘Washington Blend’ by Tirriddis is a one of a kind combination of 47% Chardonnay, 12% Riesling, and 12% Merlot, with smaller portions Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Pinot Grigio, and Viognier. Juicy green apple and kumquat flavors combine with suggestions of nectarine and wet stone. This is really good for 24 bucks. Drink 2022-2026- 90

NV Tirriddis ‘Blanc de Blanc No. 2’ Sparkling Wine- This 100% Chardonnay rendition comes from the Yakima Valley. It is very yeasty on the nose with brioche bread and suggestions of baking spices alongside Japanese pear. The palate shows racy acidity and good finesse, with a soft mousse. Lemon oil and sourdough bread flavors dominate, as this is best enjoyed now and over the next five years. Try this with fresh Kusshi oysters. Drink 2022-2027- 912

NV Tirriddis ‘House Rose Rendition No. 1’ Rose Sparkling Wine- Very soft bubbles frame a core of guava and strawberry fruit flavors with salted cantaloupe accents. Soft on the mouth, this is really nicely done. Drink 2023-2029- 90

NV Tirriddis ‘House Gris Rendition No. 1’ Sparkling Wine- This is soft and vibrant on the mouth, coming off very linear considering the varietal. Lemon/lime flavors combine with ripe nectarine and shades of kiwi on the palate. Drink this well-balanced sparkling wine now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2028- 90

NV Tirriddis ‘Barrel Fermented Blanc de Blanc Rendition No. 3’ Sparkling Wine- All Chardonnay, this delivers lemon zest and toasty oak flavors alongside a soft mousse and shades of cardamom laced pear on the palate. This is really tasty stuff to savor over the next five plus years to come. Drink 2023-2029- 91

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It was a sensational day tasting the scintillating lineup of 2021 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

Quilceda Creek

September 8, 2023

One of the shining stars of world wine, Quilceda Creek is arguably the Pacific Northwest’s most famous wine brand. It had been roughly a year since I sat beside and tasted with Paul Golitzin, one of North America’s great winemakers. I’ve tasted every vintage of Quilceda Creek and this new edition of wines are the finest overall lineup I have ever had.

For decades my family have been members at the winery, affording me the opportunity to visit these wines back in my early 20s, long before I was taking tasting notes on wines. Paul has been spending a great deal of focus on his Mach One, Champoux and Galitzine Vineyards which are producing sensational grape clusters that I saw firsthand during the past several harvests. Paul got his start in wine when he was very young, and was particularly inspired following a trip to France at age 15. Mentored by his father Alex Golitzin and his great Uncle Andre Tchelistcheff, Paul took what he had learned and developed his own style that has been the most consistently great Cabernet Sauvignon in Washington State.

Yesterday I was honored to the first wine critic to try the new 2021 Quilceda Creek wines. I tasted the wines at the winery and also later that night at home. The 2021 Quilceda Creek ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 100) is a wine that embodies perfection. This wine will go down with the 2018 as the finest ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernets that have ever been made. This is seamless, silky Washington Cabernet Sauvignon that does not get any better than this. Just as good is the more heady and hedonistic 2021 Quilceda Creek ‘Galitzine Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 100) which will easily be a 20 year wine. This massive beast really needs another year in the cellar but will appeal to literally every lover of world-class Cabernet Sauvignon. Learn more about these incredible wines at quilcedacreek.com and here are my reviews of the sensational 2021 pre-release Cabernet Sauvignon wines by Quilceda Creek.

2021 Quilceda Creek ‘CVR’ Red Wine- Arguably the finest ’CVR’ yet produced, this 2021 edition is composed of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon with 5% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot and the remainder Cabernet Franc — which is a departure from the 2020 vintage which was nearly all Cabernet. The wine spent 20 months in 50% new French oak before bottling. This displays intriguing herbal notes from the Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc. This displays more aromatic layers than the 2020 bottling. The texture is really outstanding as this is silky smooth throughout the drinking experience. Layers of mocha, tar and anise collide with copious minerals and great tension considering the warmth of the vintage. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2021 Quilceda Creek ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘Columbia Valley’ mainly comes from the Champoux Vineyard (90%) with the remainder coming from the Mach One Vineyard. A range of Cabernet Sauvignon clones are blended into this wine that spent 20 months in all new French oak before bottling. The aromatics really pop here with violets alongside potpourri and Turkish coffee, sandalwood, allspice dusted dates and shades of black licorice. The palate is generous, weightless and very generous as this is a total show stopper. Concentrated blue and black fruits with walnut, with creme de violette all brilliantly combine with the elegant mid-palate mouthfeel. Finishing extremely long, this is nothing short of perfection in a bottle. I don’t say this lightly but this is arguably the finest ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon that I have ever tasted. Give this three hours or more in the decanter if enjoying now. Drink 2024-2044- 100

2021 Quilceda Creek ‘Palengat’ Caberent Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘Palengat’ comes from the Mach One Vineyard which utilizes Clone 685 Cabernet Sauvignon. Stored in all new French oak for 20 months, this offers insane power and aromatic range on the nose. Iodine and creme de cassis tones combine with espresso grounds, purple rose petals, scorched earth and tobacco leaf notes. The palate is plush and loaded with black and blue fruit flavors. Showing its seamless mouthfeel, the wine effortless glides throughout the drinking experience. Weightless, yet showing serious force, with bright underlying tension, enjoy this beauty now and over the next twenty years to come. Give this at least three hours in the decanter if savoring in its heady youth. Drink 2024-2044- 100

2021 Quilceda Creek ‘Tchelistcheff’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘Tchelistcheff’ is a tribute to after Paul Golitzin’s uncle, Andre Tchelistcheff, who was a United States wine icon. Stored in all new French oak barrels, this wine comes from the Mach One Vineyard and utilizes Clonal 412 selections. The nose is incredibly complex with anise and black currant jelly alongside Arabica bean and suggestions of creosote. The palate is plush, soft and very refined with silky tannins that frame a core of deeply concentrated black fruits. With more air cedar, sweet pipe tobacco and suggestions of toasted hazelnut and salty accents all add to the enjoyment. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next twenty years to come. Drink 2024-2044- 99

2021 Quilceda Creek ‘Galitzine’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A total stunner, the 100% varietal 2021 Quilceda Creek ‘Galitzine’ Cabernet Sauvignon utilizes Clonal 8 selection and was stored in all new French oak before bottling. On the nose this takes on heady dark rose petal notes alongside tar, black licorice and smoldering stones. The palate is very dense and layered with fabulous concentration and underlying freshness. Huckleberry, dark chocolate shavings, pencil lead and shades of anise with glorious length greets you on the palate. This will easily be a 20 plus year wine. Enjoy this total heavyhitter now and over the next twenty years to come. Drink 2024-2044- 100

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Great photo of new Delmas Director of Winemaking, Brooke Delmas Robertson.

Delmas

September 7, 2023

A brand that has created one of the finest, most singular wines you can taste in the Pacific Northwest, Delmas was a vision of crafting world-class Syrah from the cobblestones of Milton-Freewater. It was more than a decade ago they founded the meticulously farmed SJR Vineyard. It is a thriving site that is a must see for anyone crazy about wines from this region. Sitting with Delmas founder Steve Robertson and new director of winemaking Brooke Robertson, they talked about the warm, 2021 vintage. “This vintage was a challenge” said Brooke. “It was extraordinarily hot and we had low yields. Every other shoot just didn’t produce a cluster so we had like one cluster a shoot and there was only 55 cases made because of that.”

Both Brooke and Steve were excited that their first pick of the harvest was scheduled for this Friday. They spoke with glee about the pending harvest “as we have the perfect storm with the weather” said Steve. Brooke as a new mother has been working hard to maintain her work/life balance. “Trying to find that balance between the fun that you want to have with her and the work that needs to be done can be difficult” she said.

Viognier was a bit of an enigma for the Robertsons when they first planted the varietal in their stony vineyard. However, over time Brooke described the farming techniques which have changed to their benefit. “We have been farming Viognier differently. We had to change that into a double guyot cane situation where we are getting more balance there. Viognier is such a dramatic variety and it is all over the place, sending shoots all over the place. It is weird but it works here in the vineyard and getting to the cane pruned system allows this to be more stable. That allows for the production of the clusters to be more prolific and in balance.” She continued “We can get to a regular level of production so we know that it is not a question any more. We know how many buds that we are setting and that also allows for a speediness of ripeness. Things ripen faster and we don’t have to water as much.”

Syrah was easier to cope with in 2021, other than “Yields being way down” said Brooke. “We had a warm Autumn which allowed the flavors to really develop nicely” she said. “We were able to pick a bit early and achieved rich flavors from this vintage.” Regarding the 2021 Syrah “We knew early in barrel that the Syrah was in a great place” Steve said.

The new wines from the 2021 vintage are outrageously good. They have crafted arguably the finest Delmas Syrah that I have ever tasted. The 2021 Delmas Syrah (OB, 97) is a complete stunner with a dizzying bouquet that yields an utterly sensational range of aromatics. This is a must-purchase for any lover of the Walla Walla Rocks District. Learn more at delmaswines.com and here are my reviews of the new 2021 Delmas future release wines.

2021 Delmas ‘SJR Vineyard’ Viognier- A standout white wine in this vintage, the 2021 Delmas ‘SJR Vineyard’ Viognier spent six hours on the skins and then was stored in puncheons with continuous battonage. This was bottled in December 2022. Right away a whiff of fresh honeysuckle vines brings you in, as white peach, passion fruit and shades of star jasmine all combine in this highly fragrant bouquet. The palate is rich, viscous and simply irresistible. Fat on the mouth, this takes on an unctuous texture. Showing glorious length and viscosity, this is fantastic stuff to savor at a slightly warmer temperature — so don’t serve too cold! Drink 2023-2036- 96

2021 Delmas ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah- The stunning 2021 Delmas ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah is another sensational effort from this famed outpost in the Walla Walla Rocks District of Milton-Freewater. Coming from this site that is set on large cobblestones. Umami, green olive tapenade and Hoisin sauce as well as Asian spices mark the nose alongside boysenberry and tar notes. This shows a fantastic underlying finesse with a silky smooth mouthfeel and loads of depth, concentration and mouth-watering acidity. Finishing extremely long, this just might be the best Delmas Syrah ever made. Drink 2023-2032- 97

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This vertical tasting of ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay shows that Oregon Chardonnay can age gracefully for decades.

Argyle 'Nuthouse' Chardonnay Vertical Tasting

September 6, 2023

I am a huge champion of Oregon Chardonnay. And I love all styles that the top producers make (limited oak, heavier on oak) because the styles bring so much diversity to the game. Those not on the Oregon Chardonnay Train might have their head in the sand. The quality of Oregon Chardonnay just continues to improve as more and more producers move into the arena. We have to thank the original producers of top Chardonnay like Argyle, Domaine Serene, Bergstrom, Evening Land and Walter Scott for that.

Each year Oregon holds a ‘Chardonnay Celebration’ that is a must for any Chardonnay nut. I won’t forget the dosage trials that Argyle winemaker Nate Klostermann guided us on roughly a year ago. One of the bubbles masters of Oregon, Nate has also quietly been making some of the great Chardonnays in the state under the Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ label. For years I was buying these wines before I was reviewing wines professionally. The ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay typically comes from the Lone Star and Spirit Hill Vineyards. Oak is moderate on these wines, usually around 30-40%. Texturally these wines are very gratifying and they just seem to age gracefully regardless of vintage. Case in point is the 2007 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) which is obviously a better vintage for Chardonnay than Pinot Noir, but vines still struggled with achieving phenolic ripeness in the valley. Such was not the case for this wine, as there was plenty of rich fruit flavors with plenty of nerve. The new wine, the 2021 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) is just as good with sensational tension and texture. This will easily go for another ten plus years. Think Oregon Chardonnay can’t age? Think again! This is a beautiful example of how Oregon Chardonnay, like Sonoma or Napa Chardonnay, can achieve greatness through tertiary notes as they evolve in the cellar. Learn more about these outstanding wines at argylewinery.com and here are my tasting notes from a sensational tasting of Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay.

Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay

2021 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay- This 2021 ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay was largely sourced from the Lone Star Vineyard with some coming from the Spirit Hill Vineyard. Aged in roughly 20% new French oak, this is beautifully crafted wine with serious richness and underlying tension with salty. Ripe orchard and citrus fruits collide with toasted Macadamia nut notes. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2017 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay- The 2017 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay is a gorgeous showing from this slightly cooler vintage. Ripe peach and pear notes combine with salted praline and shades of brioche on the palate. Finishing long with good weight and tension, this beauty is singing right now. Drink 2023-2032- 94

2015 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay- Already beautifully evolved, the 2015 ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay is an incredible wine from a great vintage that come from the Lone Star Vineyard. The texture and sense of weight here is flat out fabulous. Juicy apple and pear flavors combine with saline drenched lemon and nutmeg dusted brioche flavors. This is just incredible to enjoy right now. Drink 2023-2031- 95

2009 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay- This wine combines Knudsen, Lone Star and Stoller Vineyards. This is very nicely evolved on the nose with nutmeg and allspice notes alongside pastry crust, nectarine and shades of lemon zest. Soft and round with a smooth texture, this is drinking beautifully right now. Drink 2023-2028- 93

2007 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay- Coming from this slightly cooler vintage, 2007 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Chardonnay is an incredible wine that shows serious weight and underlying verve. Dense lemon oil, white peach and pie crust flavors combine with shades of roasted pineapple. Drink 2023-2031- 95

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It was a sensational tasting at Domaine Serene as they have produced the finest wine that I have tasted in the past year from the Willamette Valley — their 2018 ‘Monogram’ Pinot Noir.

Domaine Serene

September 6, 2023

You don’t forget your first visit to Domaine Serene. Mine came back in 2002 There might have been many changes since then but the quality in the glass has remained paramount since this Dundee Hills winery was founded in the 1990s. I have enjoyed many of these wines in my personal collection over the years as they age so gracefully.

Last week I had the chance to visit the property and sit down with the winemaking team. The new wines were just sensational — some of the finest you will find in Oregon. This is the standard set by Dundee Hills pioneers Grace and Ken Evenstad.

I always tell people that Domaine Serene is a must visit for wine enthusiasts as it is definitely one of the most beautiful you will find in the Pacific Northwest.

Before coming to Domaine Serene, winemaker Michael Fay made brilliant Pinot Noirs at Goldeneye. Michael has done a great job with his new release wines. Don’t miss out on the Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve M.V. 5’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 95) which is clearly one of the finest, most refined sparkling wines you will taste in Oregon. This has a very Krug-like texture and flavor profile.  But the best wine I tasted, and the finest wine I have tasted from Oregon this year was the 2018 Domaine Serene ‘Monogram’ Pinot Noir (OB, 99) which will rival anything in its region. Texturally this is ethereal and pillowy. Dense and layered with a cornucopia of dark fruit and non-fruit flavors, this has some sensational aging potential. Huge congrats to the winemaking team in crafting this bottling which is clearly the finest ‘Monogram’ yet produced. Learn more about this famed Oregon estate at http://domaineserene.com/ Here are the incredible new release wines by Domaine Serene.

Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Dundee Hills Brut M.V. 5 Sparkling Wine- This is now the 5th edition of this beautiful wine. This was aged on the lees for three years and then spent eight months in the barrel and was given 8G/L dosage. Roughly equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this offers a silky mousse with plenty of lemon oil and oyster shell flavors alongside hazelnuts and shades of white truffle. This is very Oregon meets Krug and will go neck and neck from anything in this region. Enjoy over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 95

Domaine Serene ‘Fleur de Vie’ Dundee Hils Demi-Sec M.V. 4 Sparkling Wine- The really good Domaine Serene ‘Fleur de Vie’ Dundee Hils Demi-Sec M.V. 4 Sparkling Wine is one of the great wines of its kind. The wine offers loads of mouth-watering acidity with a touch of sweetness with ripe nectarine, mango and Pink Lady apple flavors alongside the beautiful tension. 28G/L dosage. Drink 2023-2032- 93

2021 Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Chardonnay- The 2021 Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Chardonnay is a blockbuster effort from this warm vintage as 40% of this wine was sourced from the Triple Crown Vineyard. The nose is outstanding with toasted walnut, white peach, wets stone and shades of lemon rind. This is very ripe and heady with an outstanding texture and sense of weight. This beauty will easily go for another ten plus years — and is already providing some serious drinking enjoyment. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2021 Domaine Serene ‘Clos de Lune’ Chardonnay- This comes from the two vineyard blocks that are clone 548 Chardonnay. This site is known for citrus and spice. The wine is oily and unctuous, as this is a full-bodied beauty. Nutty and stony tones combine with shades of nectarine, lemon zest and brioche tones. Finishing exceedingly long this is one of the great ‘Clos de Lune’ bottling that I have tasted. Enjoy now and over the next twelve plus years to come. Drink 2023-2037- 96

2021 Domaine Serene ‘Triple Crown Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2021 Domaine Serene ‘Triple Crown Vineyard’ Chardonnay is a stunning effort from this warm vintage. Showing great weight and underlying verve, this offers a seamless texture as this glides throughout the drinking experience. Pear and green apple flavors mark the palate, alongside toasted oak, roasted pineapple and shades of vanilla cream. Finishing exceedingly long this is a polished, rich effort that will drink well for another fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2023-2038- 96

2021 Domaine Serene ‘Cote Sud Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The gorgeous 2021 Domaine Serene ‘Cote Sud Vineyard’ Chardonnay is another complex and delicious wine from this famed Dundee Hills estate. This site was first planted back in 1991 as the wine revels in its core of nectarine and oyster shell tones that combine with wet stone and papaya flavors. The palate is plush and soft with a refined texture and beautiful length. This is a complete wine that is already very nicely evolved. Drink 2023-2038- 96

2021 Domaine Serene ‘Etoile Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This comes from the western side of the Dundee Hills property which is a western facing site that is typically picked the latest of the single vineyard locations which was planted back in 1999. The nose is heady and intense with lemon oil, white truffle, roasted Macadamia nut and sides of Gravenstein apple. Rich and intense with a soft mouthfeel and glorious length, this is beautiful wine that is drinking beautiful even at the two year mark Drink 2023-2038- 96

2020 Chevalier de la Cree ‘Cote de Beaune’ Pinot Noir- This 2020 ‘Cote de Beaune’ is a negotiant wine that comes from several regions in the Cote de Beaune. This is round and generous with wet stone and a rich core of red fruits that combine with citrus rind and shades of anise. While initially a bit reticent, with great finesse, this will easily go for another ten plus years. Drink 2023-2037- 92

2021 Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Pinot Noir- The brilliant 2021 Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Pinot Noir will be released in March 2023. This is incredibly harmonious stuff wth serious depth, concentration and nuance. Black truffle shavings combine with red currants, kumquat zest and boysenberry with shades of Umami on the palate. Finishing long, with a seamless texture, and fantastic weight, this is already beautifully evolved stuff that has a long way in the cellar to go. Drink 2023-2039- 95

2006 Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Pinot Noir- The 2006 ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Pinot Noir comes from this warm vintage that saw a range of challenges. Pomegranate seed and wild mushroom combine with peat moss and satsuma orange zest on the palate. With bright acidity and great weight, this will cellar well for another five to seven years. Drink 2023-2029- 95

2019 Domaine Serene ‘Mark Bradford Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The stunning 2019 Domaine Serene ‘Mark Bradford Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is named after the Evenstad’s son, as this western-facing site, planted in 1991, is located on the western side of the estate. This Wadenswil and Pommard clone Pinot Noir offers serious texture and richness with tobacco leaf, red currants, pomegranate seed and shades of white pepper on the palate. Finishing long this is gorgeous Pinot Noir that is already drinking beautifully. Considering the challenges of the vintage, this is a stunning new Pinot Noir that will go for potentially another twenty years. Drink 2023-2040- 96

2020 Maison Evenstad ‘Volnay Les Brouillards’ Pinot Noir- The 2020 ‘Volnay Les Brouillards’ is a wine comes from a foggy site, set on limestone soils. Cranberry with wild mushroom, peat moss and blackberries all combine on the palate, showing gravel undertones. Very heady with soft tannins, this is beautiful, well-structured wine that will easily go for twenty years. Drink 2023-2042- 94

2018 Domaine Serene ‘Monogram’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Monogram’ is a stunning bottling that flirts with perfection as this is a knockout blend of Pinot Noir from the Grace, Mark Bradford and Cote Sud Vineyards. Stored in 70% new French oak, the 2018 ‘Monogram’ deftly embodies this warm vintage. Once on the nose this takes on roasted date, huckleberry, red rose water, peat moss, and shades of blood orange zest. The palate is soft and round with serious power and weight. Finishing extremely long, with ripe black fruits, this is an absolutely stunning wine that is quite simply the finest wine from the Willamette Valley that I have tasted this past year. Drink 2023-2043- 99

2020 Domaine Serene ‘Grand Cheval’ Oregon Red Wine- The 2020 Domaine Serene ‘Grand Cheval’ comes from the Seven Hills Vineyard and includes Pinot Noir from the estate vineyard. Very juicy with bright acidity, this offers blackberry and black plum notes alongside salty accents and shades of smoked meats on the palate. A touch more linear than the ’18 and ’19 editions of this wine, the 2020 is ready to go now. Drink 2023-2029- 93

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June 2, 2026
Cuvaison
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Baer
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June 1, 2026
Rasa Vineyards
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Dusted Valley
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Dunham Cellars
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May 27, 2026
Nysa Vineyard
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May 25, 2026
Hambledon
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Duckhorn Vineyards
May 25, 2026
May 25, 2026
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Force Majeure
May 25, 2026
May 25, 2026
May 22, 2026
Spottswoode
May 22, 2026
May 22, 2026
May 20, 2026
Champagne Billecart-Salmon
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May 12, 2026
2026 Paso Robles Report
May 12, 2026
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May 10, 2026
Rhys Vineyard
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Massican
May 10, 2026
May 10, 2026
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Chappellet
May 10, 2026
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Appassionata
May 10, 2026
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