Leonetti Cellar Aglianico Vertical Tasting

“These 100% varietal wines really need time” explained Chris Figgins as we tasted his range of Aglianico wines. “And there is good reason why Taurasi Agliancio wines are aged so long” he said. I too highly admire the Aglianico wines of the Taurasi region. These wines can initially be tannic monsters with brooding black fruits, rich herbs and chocolate flavored profiles. For years Figgins dreamed of adding to his portfolio, already having beautiful Sangiovese wines that are the finest in Washington State. Over time Figgins saw the potential to make great Aglianico wines in high elevation vineyards. In fact, it was all the way back in 2006 that he had a conversation with Winebow Italian wine manager and he was blown away with Aglianico wines that he was tasting. Finally in 2010 he took the plunge and planted Aglianico with his first full vintage being from 2013 — which at the time was one of the warmest ever in the Walla Walla Valley.

He saw his Serra Pedace Vineyard as the perfect site for such a varietal — a place which possesses thin soil types with fractured basalt. “This seemed like a natural fit and also Aglianico is late ripening so that was the best site for us because we wanted to make sure that it was ripe” he said. With the warm vintages coming on, he felt that the vines were well suited for this late ripening varietal.

In 2019 there was cooler temperatures which “Was fine because we made it through the frost.” Figggins sees this wine having “great rusticity. Our Sangio doesn’t have that Italian rusticity but I was delighted to see that Aglianico maintains that old world feel. It is pretty consistent that way.” The Leonetti Agliancio is a passion project which is partly aged (33%) in amphorae which Figgins feels not only brings a different texture but different range of flavors to the wine. “We get more pretty florals from the amphorae” Figgins explains.

We spent more than an hour tasting through vintages 2013-2018 of Aglianico. Considering the youth of the vines, we were both blown away with the quality in the first vintage — his 2013. The 2013 Leonetti Aglianico (OB, 95) is a masterclass wine that has softened considerable since release. Right now this has such a beautiful core of black fruits with so many non-fruit nuances. Even better and more brooding is the 2014 Leonetti Aglianico (OB, 96) which is rich and viscous from this warm vintage. The structure and weight of the wine suggests this will go for another fifteen years — or potentially more! Finally, I have no doubt that the best wine I tasted was the 2018 Leonetti Aglianico (OB, 96-98). This is the finest, richest, most beautifully-structured wine out of the tasting. Right now this is a tannic, hedonistic monster of a wine but I can’t wait to see where this beauty goes. Learn more about these incredible wines at leonetticellar.com and here are my reviews of an unforgettable vertical tasting of Leonetti Aglianico.

2013 Leonetti Aglianico- The 2013 Aglianico was stored for 44 months in French oak barrels and neutral oak barrels as well as terra-cotta amphorae. The palate is softy and refined with soft tannins that combine with a massive core of roasted figs, coffee grounds, dusty earth and blackberry cobbler with cremini mushroom shavings. This is really drinking well now as this beauty will go for many years to come. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2014 Leonetti Aglianico- A masterclass coming from this great vintage in Walla Walla the 2014 Aglianico is really deep and penetrating on the nose with a generous core of black and blue fruits. This is seamless on the mid-palate with a smooth texture. This has a fantastic flavor density with roasted figs, mocha, tar and also a truffle edge. Savory and salty, this is absolutely delicious wine to consume now and over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2023-2037- 96

2015 Leonetti Aglianico- Coming from this record warm vintage, the 2015 Aglianico is one marvelous showing from a tough vintage for red wines. Ripe bing cherry, cuban cigar, red rose water, orange rind and shades of salty soils all combine on the palate. Surely living on for another eight plus years, this is really in its sweet spot right now. Drink 2023-2031- 94

2016 Leonetti Aglianico- The 2016 Leonetti Aglianico is a stunning showing that is full-throttle and delicious now. This is jam-packed full of delicious flavors. Tar, huckleberry compote, black licorice and worn leather alongside espresso grounds and refined tannins all combine on the palate. Rich, viscous and deftly structured, this is already drinking beautifully and has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2038- 96

2017 Leonetti Aglianico- The 2017 Aglianico is a stunning showing from this vintage. On the nose this offers creosote and garrigue notes alongside chocolate and coffee ground notes. Vibrant and fresh with loads of mouth-watering acidity, this is drinking really well now and will live on for another fifteen plus years. Give this an hour or two of air if consuming now. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2018 Leonetti Aglianico (96-98)

Beaulieu Vineyard

Back more than twenty years ago I tried my first BV wine. It was a Georges de Latour that I will never forget from the epic 1996 vintage. Everyone in wine will remember their first Georges de Latour. A famed and historic Napa estate, Beaulieu Vineyard began in 1900, when Georges de Latour's wife, Fernande, first laid eyes on the land that would become their original Rutherford vineyard — and she named it "beau lieu," or "beautiful place." De Latour saw the potential of the land and sold his thriving cream of tartar business, purchasing the four-acre ranch and later founding Beaulieu Vineyard.  I have long enjoyed visiting the BV Reserve Room — one of the great locations to try some of the best wines in Napa. I’ve admired these wines back to the early and mid-1990s as I’ve found them to age remarkably well. Particularly the 1995 and 1996 ‘Georges de Latour’ are iconic, age worthy Napa wines.  At the helm is Trevor Durling, who took over a few years back for legendary winemaker Jeffrey Stambor. Originally from Sonoma County, Trevor has a degree in viticulture and enology from the esteemed University of California, Davis.

I love the 2019 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Rutherford Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 94) which is dense and chewy with serious texture.  I love the price point here. We love the gorgeous 2020 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Georges de Latour’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) which has massive cellaring potential and will reward for many decades to come. Elegant and rich, this is nothing short of a sensational new release. Learn more about these beautiful new wines at https://www.bvwines.com Here are the new releases by BV.

2020 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon offers straightforward dark currant, kirsch and blackberry flavors alongside coffee grounds and bright acidity on the palate. Medium-bodied, enjoy now. Drink 2024-2029- 90

2019 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Rutherford Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2019 ‘Rutherford Reserve’ by Beaulieu Vineyard is a outstanding blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and 5% Malbec that was stored for 21 months in all new French oak before bottling. Alluring aromatics greet you with fresh sage, dark rose petals and potpourri alongside shades of Turkish coffee grounds. The palate reveals a smooth texture, with serious weight and great underlying verve. Bright with mouth-watering acidity, this is concentrated, broad-shouldered Cabernet that will cellar well for another fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 94

2020 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Georges de Latour’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 ‘George de Latour’ is an outstanding wine made in a really tough vintage by BV winemaker Trevor Durling. Right away this offers enticing aromatics of cigar ash, black currants, espresso grounds and shades of blackberry compote. The palate has great structure and finesse. Medium to full-bodied, this entices with a deep core of black fruits that collide with violets, graphite, and loamy soils. Coming off very clean, it will be really interesting to see how this beauty evolves. For my palate, no reason to cellar this right now as it is really hitting its stride especially after 30 minutes of air. Savor now and over the next ten years. Drink 2024-2034- 95

Interview with Fiona Mak, Founder and Winemaker of Smak Wines

One of the truly unique wineries of the Pacific Northwest, Smak Wines focuses on a range of Rose wines based on the time of year. Founder and winemaker Fiona Mak is a graduate of Syracuse University’s hospitality management program. Originally from Hong Kong, Mak had a formidable career in the restaurant industry, making a host of great spots like Morimoto in Philadelphia, Haru Sushi in New York, and Quality Meats, in Manhattan. Mak is also a certified sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers. In 2013 she traveled across country to begin her wine education at the Walla Walla Community College Enology and Viticulture program. Fiona is so incredibly talented and it has been such a pleasure getting to know her over the years. I think you will really enjoy hearing her story in wine. Here is my exclusive interview with Fiona Mak, founder and winemaker at Smak Wines.

OB: How did you decide to become a winemaker? 

FM: I was a restaurant manager and sommelier in New York City for a steakhouse before fully entering into the wine industry. Being in the NYC restaurant scene has taught me a lot about the world of wine. I was lucky enough to have the support of my company to study for Sommelier certification exams, and the exposure of fine wines definitely accelerated and solidified my path towards wine. At one point I felt a little stuck, as I was a double minority (Asian, Woman) working in a white male dominated field. My friend Maryam Ahmed told me she was coming to Walla Walla and enrolled in the local Community College Enology & Viticulture program, I decided to go together with her as it would be a great way to round out my wine education by fully immersing myself in wine production. I came to Walla Walla 10 years ago and have never looked back. 

OB: What are some of the challenges Asian-Americans face culturally with not only being in the wine industry but becoming a winemaker and having their own wine business?

FM: I was fortunate that my father loved wine when I was growing up and loved to share his knowledge and thoughts about them since I was very young. Wine was pretty much an intrinsic part of my lifestyle but it wasn't true for everyone. Most of my friends back in Hong Kong actually don't drink, and their parents didn't have a habit of drinking either.  Wine in general isn't an innate part of a typical Asian lifestyle as a lot of Asian countries produce their own alcoholic beverages - Baiju (Chinese white wine), Japanese Sake, Korean Soju etc. Beer is also very common in the culture as it is more affordable and relates to a lot of social events and goes well with Asian cuisines. Growing up in Hong Kong I was raised in a unique position where there are a lot of expats, and a blend of many East and West cultures. People were slowly introduced to wine, from appreciation to the collective value of cellaring fine wine. I think it's rather hard to imagine yourself as a winemaker when you grow up in Asia, as it's such a foreign concept. However for Asian-Americans born and raised here in the United States, it may not be that far out of reach, but still uncommon. You will have to have some kind of wine background or interest first. My parents, like a lot of Asian parents, had hoped that I would either follow their footsteps and work in finance, or hold a "stable" job like a doctor or a lawyer. In the beginning they really didn't like me stepping outside of the "cookie mold" of college degree > climbing the corporate ladder > married with kids. The challenge is to receive support for stepping outside the stereotype and starting your own business, in a field they may not understand but I guess that's true to any young business owner in any field. The challenge that I have faced was not for my race but for my gender. I think there are many challenges women still face in the wine industry, as women are constantly undermined, belittled and overlooked. The journey to starting a winery was long and hard and you'll have to do a lot of the work yourself but whenever I was stuck I had a lot of mentors to turn to - JF Pellet (Pepperbridge), John Abbott (Devona) , Ali Mayfield (Milbrandt) and JJ Menozzi (Aluvé) are just some of the great support I have received when I was starting the paperwork for the winery. I am blessed to be among such supportive comrades who are not afraid of sharing what and who they know to make sure you're successful. 

OB: Talk about the spirit of Smak Wines, wines that I have now enjoyed for many years.  What is the motivation behind your brand?

FM: The motivation of SMAK was born in France where I spent a lot of time with my family. I saw first hand the French mentality of associating sunshine with Rosé. It didn’t matter whether it was hot or cold, at the beach or in the snow. I think the US marketing on Rosé, reducing an entire category of wine to one season is to limit creativity and consumer choices. It's like the restaurant industry telling people to only eat beef in Spring. It's absurd. 

We are a Rosé exclusive winery from the beginning, for several reasons:

• Walla Walla summers are hot with many 100F+ days, which make people crave something light, refreshing and cold to drink.

• Rosé are extremely versatile, they can be made from any red skinned grape, which WA state grows a variety of in very high quality

• Coming from a food and wine background, Rosé are great food wines as they often have high natural acidity 

• I wanted to bring the French Rosé mentality into our lifestyle, and make wine drinking a lifestyle.

• I also wanted to bring the fun factor of wine back, to remind people to not over complicate the enjoyment of wine.

With all of these reasons in mind, coupled with our Seasonal lifestyle in Walla Walla, I have created seasonal Rosé named after the seasons where the wines themselves emulate the season. I am further developing a new Abstract series, an experimental series of Rosé, so that I can keep exploring and produce more Rosé from the various varieties of grapes we grow in the WA state. 

OB: There are so few Asian-American women winemakers not only in the Pacific Northwest but the world of wine. What can we do to help this issue evolve and improve?

FM: I think we have to address the discrepancy for women holding executive positions in our industry in regard to race. Our state has the majority of small boutique wineries that are often owned by one person, a husband and wife team or family. Mid to large size wineries in our state often have no internal structure to promote within. To suggest some solutions to this problem first we need to demand equal pay for men and women in our industry. We need to question - are we supporting the diversity in wine, and the people who are doing something different? Are we doing our best to boost those around us, highlighting other women or minority owned businesses in or relating to our industry?  Are we fostering the successes and career development of women? Are we advocating for groups like Diversity in Wine Leadership Forum and the Alliance of Women in Washington Wine (many people think this group is just for women but what they need are support and advocates from all genders)? We need stronger industry-wide DEI programs from our State Wine Commission, regional wine alliances and corporations. At the regional and local level we need better workforce training programs for existing employees such as wine appreciation, AVA history, WSET certifications.  I strongly believe in investing in one’s employee through personal enrichment and fair compensation. Lastly, can we change our perspective to make wine more approachable through our language - can we translate our tasting notes? Can we write different tasting notes for the same wine for different cultures? Can we give our consumers the confidence to buy wine over other alcoholic beverages through effective marketing, appropriate pricing, and consumer education?

Alpha Omega

One of the beautiful Napa estates, Alpha Omega crafts a range of fantastic wines from sites throughout the Napa Valley. Founded back in in 2006, Alpha Omega is a gorgeous, family-owned property that relies on the talented hands of winemaker Matt Brain, who has a master's degree in biosciences and a background in process engineering. He also earned a winemaking degree from UC Davis and held winemaker titles at prominent California wineries and winemaker/lecturer positions with Enology and Viticulture programs at both Cal Poly and Fresno State universities.

I love the 2020 Alpha Omega Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is rich and viscous, coming off very clean from this tough vintage. Without a doubt the best wine that I tasted was the incredible 2019 Alpha Omega ‘ERA’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 99) which is one of the great Cabernet wines from Napa that I have tasted in the past year. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.aowinery.com Here are my reviews of the gorgeous new wines by Alpha Omega.

2020 Alpha Omega ‘1155’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 1155’ Sauvignon Blanc’ has 2% Semillon blended in. This is a gorgeous effort that shows pink grapefruit blossom and orange rind on the nose alongside Japanese pear. The palate is fresh and refined with a smooth texture and good weight. Stored in oak barrels (acacia wood), as well as some new French oak barrels. Drink 2024-2030- 92

2020 Alpha Omega Chardonnay- The outstanding 2020 Alpha Omega Chardonnay was stored in 35% new French oak before bottling. The wine mostly comes from Carneros as well as Mt. Veeder. This comes off rich and beautifully textured from this challenging vintage. Ripe pear and butterscotch notes combine with shades of melon and baking spices on the palate. Seamless and soft, this is a gorgeous effort in 2020. Drink 2024-2030- 93

2021 Alpha Omega ‘Reserve’ Rose- Bright and nicely textured, the 2021 Alpha Omega ‘Reserve’ Rose has all five Bordeaux varietals blended in. Stored in acacia wood, right away this offers bright cranberry and orange flavors alongside flinty accents and plenty of lip-smacking acidity on the palate. Round and rich, this is drinking beautifully now at the three year mark. Drink 2024-2029- 92

2021 Alpha Omega Cabernet Franc- This 2021 Cabernet Franc is a big and rich style of this varietal that is showing marvelously now. Blended with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, on the nose this takes on red bell pepper alongside espresso grounds, this is neatly textured with a smooth sense of mouthfeel throughout the drinking experience. Drink 2024-2036- 93

2018 Alpha Omega Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2018 Alpha Omega Cabernet Sauvignon comes from 14 regions in the Napa Valley. This version has a touch of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot blended in and was stored in 75% new French oak before bottling. Aromas of black currants and anis combine with tar and mocha. The palate is soft and refined with silky tannins that mingle well with a rich core of black fruit flavors. Drink 2024-2036- 93

2019 Alpha Omega ‘Era’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A stunning wine from a great vintage, the 2019 Alpha Omega ‘Era’ Cabernet Sauvignon has 5% Cabernet Franc and a touch of Petit Verdot and Malbec blended in. This is a barrel select wine that was stored in 70% new French oak before bottling. This has a high percentage of To Kalon fruit blended in. This has an insanely polished texture with serious verve and refined tannins. Black licorice and creme de violette, alongside stony and loamy soils alongside a wonderful sense of viscosity. Drink 2025-2050- 99

TOR

One of the giants of the Napa Valley, TOR was founded by former Beringer Vice President, Tor Kenward. Tor is famously one of the architects of Beringer’s famed ‘Private Reserve’ Cabernet and Chardonnay program which became some of the most famous wines of their kind.  Tor also has a new book out that is a truly outstanding read for any lover of Napa Valley wine. TOR is most famous for their inky, concentrated Cabernets but they also make some of the finest Chardonnay in the valley. Winemaker Jeff Ames crafts his Cabernet bottlings to be burly and bold, yet maintaining beautiful structure and flavor range. They are wines that are not to be missed by Napa Cabernet lovers.

TOR’s 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon wines are absolutely stunning across the board. The 2021 TOR ‘Vine Hill Ranch’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 99) is a wine that flirts with perfection, displaying a dizzying combination of weight, finesse and flavor range. This is a must-purchase for any serious collector of Napa Cabernet. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://torwines.com Here are the exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon releases by TOR.

2021 TOR ‘Vine Hill Ranch’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘Vine Hill Ranch’ by TOR comes from this famed spot in the Oakville AVA, as this site neighbors the wooded hills of the Mayacama Mountain Range. This bottling comes from blocks 4, 7, and 3 and was stored in 80% new French oak prior to bottling. Exotic spices mark the nose alongside creme de violette, mocha, tar and black licorice. The palate is seamless and beautifully concentrated, with its stony soil character, as every working piece moves in seamless unison. A total stunner from this enticing vintage, savor this beauty now and over the next twenty five years — or potentially more. Drink 2024-2049- 99

2021 TOR ‘Vaca Ridge Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The Vaca Ridge Vineyard’ is a new vineyard designated wine by TOR. This site is planted on stone ridges in the Vaca Mountains that overlook Napa Valley and Lake Hennessey. The wine shows beautiful poise and concentration from this warm vintage. Creme de cassis, loganberry compote, and espresso grounds with stony accents mark the palate alongside shades of dark chocolate shavings. This seriously good bottling will enjoy at least another twenty years of life ahead of it. Drink 2024-2044- 96

2021 TOR ‘Oakville’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The sensational ‘Oakville’ comes from some famed sites in the Oakville AVA including the Tench Vineyard. Very brooding in the glass, this displays incredible aromatics with black tea, exotic spices, blackberries, anise, red bell pepper and shades of freshly tilled loamy soils. The palate is concentrated and comes off very seamless with incredible elegance throughout the drinking experience. This is amongst the finest entry level Napa Cabernets that you will find in the valley as it will easily cellar for another fifteen years but will also reward early drinking. Drink 2023-2040- 95

Liberty Lake

Today we share one of the great boutique spots on Red Mountain. For many years now Liberty Lake has been producing some excellent wines from the Red Mountain AVA. The tasting room originally opened its doors in 2007 with the release of its 2005 vintage produced by original owners Doug and Shelly Smith. Mark and Sarah Lathrop took over the operation in January 2016 with the intent of focusing on full-bodied red wines.

The owners met back in 2005 at Eastern Washington University’s MBA program and they both found a love of wine together. The new wines were very good from the 2020 vintage. They come off clean and bright from this challenging year. The wines are also exceedingly well-priced and exude value. Check out the awesome new 2020 Tahija Sangiovese (OB, 91) which is an awesome wine made by Liberty Lake Cellars that has bright red fruits with a smooth mouthfeel. Even more impressive is the 2020 Liberty Lake Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 92) which is dense and chewy coming from the Scooteney Flats Vineyard.  Learn more about this exciting winery at http://www.libertylakewinecellars.com Here are the new wines by Liberty Lake.

2020 Tahija Sangiovese- Coming from the Candy Mountain Vineyard, this 2020 Sangiovese offers a soft mouthfeel with excellent texture. Layers of cranberry and orange peel combine with shades of white pepper and wet stone alongside sour cherry on the palate.This comes off clean, as this is best enjoyed over the next seven years to come. Drink 2024-2031- 91

2020 Liberty Lake Cabernet Franc- The 2020 Cabernet Franc has 15% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. This is a strong showing in a tough vintage. Stored in 57% new French oak, this offers good weight with boysenberry and tar flavors alongside black tea and exotic spices on the palate. Study and soft on the mouth, enjoy this delicious and generous wine now and over the next seven years to come. Drink 2024-2031- 92

2020 Liberty Lake Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 Liberty Lake Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from the Sooteney Flats Vineyard in the Red Mountain AVA. This limited production wine (182 cases) was stored in nearly all (87%) new French oak before bottling. This comes off round and generous on the mouth, showing tobacco leaf, scorched earth, milk chocolate and rich dark fruit flavors. This is really good stuff. Drink 2024-2031- 92

Benza

A newer spot in the Willamette Valley, Benza is a 25 year old hilltop estate in the Laurelwood District AVA of the Willamette Valley. They produce estate Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Rose of Pinot Noir and traditional method sparkling brut. Located 35 minutes from Portland, they are now making a wine from the Walla Walla Rocks District as well that is fantastic.

This is the first time that I tasted the lineup of Benza wines. Located in the new Laurelwood District, the estate vineyard is set on deep Laurelwood soils on top of volcanic Jory soil. I loved the new 2022 Benza ‘Rocks District of Milton-Freewater’ Syrah (OB, 93) which has beautiful umami notes alongside fantastic flavor range. Learn more at https://www.benza.com/ and here are my reviews of the new wines by Benza.

2019 Benza ‘Brut Cremant of Oregon’ Sparkling Wine- The brilliant 2019 Benza ‘Brut Cremant of Oregon’ Sparkling Wine is a delicious new wine made in this slightly cooler year. Granny Smith apple and pear with sour starfruit notes all combine with nutty accents on the palate. Tart and showing a good level of both astringency and richness, this would be a magical pairing for sushi. Only 80 cases made. Drink 2024-2031- 91

2022 Benza ‘Block 2 Reserve’ Pinot Gris- The 2022 ‘Block 2 Reserve’ is a rich and nicely textured new wine that is already showing beautifully. On the nose this shows salted Marcona almond and shades of citrus rind alongside starfruit and Bartlett pear. The palate is soft and inviting with a smooth texture. Enjoy this great new Gris now and over the next few years. Drink 2024-2029- 91

2022 Benza ‘Rocks District of Milton-Freewater’ Syrah- The really good 2022 Benza ‘Rocks District of Milton-Freewater’ Syrah shows a smooth texture with umami and smoldering stone flavors alongside wild blackberry and shades of green olive tapenade. Complex and delicious, enjoy now and over the next six years to come. Drink 2024-2030- 93

Mark Ryan

A pillar of consistency out of Woodinviille, Mark Ryan was founded by Mark Ryan McNeilly who has been a visionary in the Washington wine scene. I loved visiting their Woodinville outpost back when I was tasting wines more informally some fifteen years ago. The winery is just so much fun to visit, with their rock and roll theme — you would be hard pressed to not enjoy a glass of wine there. Mark has an incredible story, founding his namesake winery back in 1999. He was mostly self-taught as a winemaker and has been creating some consistently good wines since that time.

I love the new wines by them, as Mark Ryan crafts wines from some of the outstanding vineyards in the state. Don’t miss out on the 2022 Mark Ryan ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is a knockout combination of texture, weight and underlying finesse. Even better is the 2021 Mark Ryan ‘Dead Horse’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 94) which is already drinking beautifully now. Learn more about this outstanding Washington winery at markryanwinery.com Here are my reviews of the great new wines by Mark Ryan.

2022 Mark Ryan ‘Flowerhead’ Rose- Made from a combination of 60% Sangiovese 32% Syrah and 8% Grenache grapes, the 2022 Flowerhead shows off delicate Yakima cherry and red raspberry flavors that ming well with stony minerals and earthy undertone on the palate. Neatly textured, enjoy this great value now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2022 Mark Ryan ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This really good 2022 Chardonnay comes from the Olsen Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. It was stored in mainly concrete edges and new French oak before bottling. First made back in 2013, this new edition shows off bright lemon rind and brioche notes on the nose alongside shades of banana. The palate is soft and inviting with a silky texture and beautiful sense of length. Refined and glorious in its weight and length, this is drinking beautifully right now. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Megan Anne ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- This beautiful new wine comes from the Lazy River and Freedom Hill Vineyards. Stored in 30% new French oak for 18 months, this offers a smooth texture with medium bodied pomegranate, red currant and orange rind flavors that combine with salty soils on the palate. Smooth and soft, this is already drinking nicely now at the near three year mark. Drink 2023-2031- 91

2021 Mark Ryan ‘Wild Eyed’ Syrah- Coming from the Red Mountain AVA, the 2021 ‘Wild Eyed’ Syrah has 4% Grenache blended in. Inky in the glass, this revels its rich creosote and espresso ground flavors, alongside iodine, creme de violette and black currant flavors. Complex and really delicious, showing good underlying verve and a smooth texture, enjoy now and over the next eight to ten years. This is already drinking beautifully now. Drink 2023-2031- 94

2021 Mark Ryan ‘Monkey Wrench’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Monkey Wrench’ is a blend of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) with 30% Merlot and the remainder Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It shows juicy dark fruit flavors that mingle well with creosote, garrigue and shades of coffee grounds on the palate. Neatly textured and balanced, this is already nicely evolved stuff that is drinking beautifully right now. Drink 2023-2030- 91

2021 Mark Ryan ‘Little Sister’ Merlot- The outstanding 2021 ‘Little Sister’ was stored for 21 months in 60% new French oak and comes from the Red Willow and Quintessence Vineyards. On the nose this takes on layers of dark currants and sweet pipe tobacco alongside espresso grounds and scorched earth notes. The palate is soft and seamless with a great sense of verve and texture. Drinking nicely now, this will continue to evolve for at least another ten plus years to come. Drink 2023-2035- 93

2021 Mark Ryan ‘Long Haul’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Long Haul’ is a Merlot dominant wine (72%) with small portions Cabernet Franc (17%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) and a touch of Petit Verdot blended in. The twenty third edition of this wine, it was stored in a smaller portion of new wood (35%) this comes across marvelously juicy with pure red fruits. With more air shades of menthol, damp soils and Arabica bean flavors all meld nicely together in the core. Great to savor now, this will live on for another eight to ten years of peak enjoyment. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2021 Mark Ryan ‘The Dissident’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 Mark Ryan ‘The Dissident’ Cabernet Sauvignon also has 10% Merlot blended in with small parts Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Stored in 37% new French oak for 18 months this offers a refined mouthfeel and texture on the approach. Layers of toasty oak, bright Bing cherry and wild blackberry combine with espresso grounds and sagebrush accents on the palate. Ripe and bold with good depth and bright underlying acidity, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next ten to twelve years. Drink 2023-2035- 93

2021 Mark Ryan ‘Dead Horse’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2021 ‘Dead Horse’ is nearly all Cabernet Sauvignon (91%) with small parts Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot — all hailing from Red Mountain. Inky in the glass, this delivers heady dark currant cordial flavors alongside a smooth texture and rich boysenberry and Turkish coffee flavors. It is soft and refined, with excellent weight and length. Fantastic to savor now, enjoy this beauty over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2023-2038- 94

Beaux Frères

Today we share the world class wines of the Ribbon Ridge AVA, Beaux Frères was founded by Michael Etzel more than twenty years ago. While on vacation in 1986 Michael came across an 88 acre pig farm and after some consideration he decided to purchase the land with his brother in law, Robert Parker — and the rest became Oregon wine history. Michael focused on his job as vineyard manager by planting Pinot Noir in the Ribbon Ridge AVA and while planting his vineyard he interned at Ponzi Winery. It was all the way back in1990, that Michael harvested his first estate fruit and sold the grapes winemakers Ken Wright and Dick Ponzi. Michael came to see that there was something exceptional about fruit from his vineyard and began making focused, mineral-driven Pinot Noirs from this special site. The wines were subsequently reviewed with incredible acclaim. I love these wines as they embody such beautiful purity of fruit. The wines cellar incredibly well as I have had the chance to taste these back 20 years and it is just remarkable how well they perform with some cellaring.

The 2021 Beaux Frères ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) is a total knockout wine that made its way on my 2023 Top 100. This is elegant, concentrated Pinot noir that has a long life ahead of it. Even better is the thrilling 2021 Beaux Freres ‘The Beaux Freres Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 98) which is one of the finest Oregon wines I have tasted in this last year. Quite literally a slumbering giant,  this has world-class richness, verve and texture. Learn more about this famed winery at beauxfreres.com and here is my review of the new Beaux Freres wines.

2021 Beaux Frères ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay- The stunning 2021 Beaux Frères ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay comes from two early ripening sites on Parrett Mountain, Star Mooring and Doration. Showing a rich, golden hue in the glass, toasted hazelnuts with ripe cantaloupe, Japanese pear and salty soils with ripe peach all mark the nose. The palate is silky smooth and inviting with a seamless sense of texture. The richness here is really stunning, as the underlying finesse and structure melds well with the rich orchard and citrus fruit flavors. Enjoy now and over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2024-2035- 95

2021 Beaux Frères ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The elegant, seamless and captivating 2021 ‘Willmette Valley’ Pinot Noir is another stunning edition of this wine by Beaux Freres. Once on the nose the class red rose petal character shines through alongside cigar box, red currants and shades of orange peel. Lithe and polished, with a silky mouthfeel, this shows a great combination of nerve and weight. This is quite primary on the palate right now but will gain considerably complexity while this ages gracefully over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2038- 95

2021 Beaux Frères ‘Sequitur Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 Beaux Frères ‘Sequitur Vineyard’ comes from this site that was planted back in 2012 by Carey Critchlow and Michael Etzel. This 12 acre location is planted to 17 separate Pinot Noir clones. Very dark in the glass, this offers potpourri and red rose petal notes on the nose alongside freshly tilled loamy soils, tobacco leaf, and boysenberry puree. Pillowy and soft with tremendous concentration and verve, this is a dazzling, rich wine that is already drinking beautifully at the three year mark. This will easily be a 20 year wine. Drink 2024-2044- 97

2021 Beaux Frères ‘The Beaux Freres Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Another wine with serious aging potential, the fabulous and flamboyant 2021 Beaux Frères ‘The Beaux Freres Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a totally stunning wine from this warm vintage. Also very dark in the glass, this reveals rich wild blackberry and black cherry notes on the nose with stony soils, cigar box and shades of milk chocolate. The palate is plush as silky tannins frame this gorgeous core of black fruit flavors alongside crushed mint, cardamom dusted red raspberry and rich fig notes. Big and bold, this has incredible richness yet comes across weightless on the mid-palate. Give this an hour of air if enjoying now, as this beauty will live on for easily another twenty years to come. This is one of the great wines of Oregon that I’ve had the pleasure of tasting in the past year. Drink 2025-2045- 98

Why You Should Decant Champagne

Should you or should you not decant champagne? Well, the answer is. . . it depends. Certainly there can be some downsides to decanting champagne. By utilizing a decanter, this may force the wine to lose a small portion of its effervescence, depending on the wine. For those who love the invigorating spritz of a champagne, the loss of some bubbles might not be an enticing experience.

Still, if you decant a youthful champagne very slowly in a narrow carafe you should not lose a considerable amount of effervescence if it is left for 20-30 minutes. I think that with any champagne decant it is imperative to taste wine every several minutes, making sure effervescence is not lost. A major proponent of decanting youthful champagnes, Champagne Billecart-Salmon CEO Mathieu Roland-Billecart explains that “it may be helpful to decant young champagnes or those with a more reductive taste profile to be able to give them a fuller expression with the benefit of oxidation.” Mr. Billecart continues “It is not a must in all circumstances and it very much depends on the profile of the cuvées and one’s personal taste. If you wish to decant, it is best to use a rather narrow carafe with a tight neck to reduce the loss of bubbles.”

I’ve experimented with decanting his 2008 Bllecart-Salmon ‘Cuvee Nicolas-Franciois’ which is one of their top wines that is produced from Grands Crus Vineyards in the Côte des Blancs (Chardonnay) and the Montagne de Reims (Pinot Noir). The 2008 vintage (current release) of this champagne is a slumbering giant upon opening and really needs a lot of air. Using a narrow decanter can greatly improve the flavor and aromatic range of this wine. The decant opens the wine to show its dense fruit and non-fruit flavors brilliantly. I have experimented extensively with using wide and narrow decanters and I certainly agree with Roland-Billecart’s contention that a narrow decanter can do wonders to youthful champagne, helping it blossom into the technicolor butterfly that it is.

There was a major point of contention in my recent New Years post on the 2014 Cristal as I shared a photo with a wide decanter. I am not a proponent of using a wide decanter but in this case I was with a friend who did not have a narrow one — and I tasted the wine every five minutes to check on how it was progressing and levels of effervescence. From my viewpoint a short decant of the 2014 Cristal is imperative. I’ve had this wine three times in the past month from my personal collection and have experimented with length of decant, decanter type etc. From these three separate tastings of the wine, there is absolutely no doubt that the flavor and aromatic density as well as flavor and aromatic complexity improves considerably after a 20-30 minute decant. For me the the question now becomes how can you not decant 2014 Cristal? The wine is reticent and is massively tight upon opening and needs about an hour or more of air without a decant. If I am seated at a restaurant, I quite simply do not have the ability to let the wine sit for an hour or more — unless I am doing a lengthy dinner at a two or three Michelin star restaurant. You do not drink Cristal merely to indulge in its effervescence — you drink Cristal to indulge in its sinfully good range of flavors and aromatics.

Earlier in the year I tried the 2014 Cristal side by side with the new 2015 release [Spring 2023]. The 2015 is also a big and dense edition of this wine but it really benefited from a lot of air and a short decant as well. The decant allowed the wine to fully express itself with its deep orchard fruit flavors and salted nut tones. My feeling is the 2015 Cristal, like the 2014, will continue to benefit from a short decant for several years, unless you set aside several hours to sit with the wine.

I think the question becomes not only whether a decant is necessitated but also what kind of stemware can help the opening up process of such a wine. For me when tasting a top youthful champagne it is imperative to utilize a champagne glass with a large bowl or taste with a white wine glass used for Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc.

Tasting the new 2015 vintage of Cristal, it benefited greatly from a decant. This comes from a hot and dry growing season, as Roederer chef de cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon has marvelously captured the warmth of this vintage. Upon opening the 2015 Cristal is very tight and vibrant — hugely mineral-laden once released. Given 30 minutes in the decanter, it really started to become aroused and more opulent in terms of bright citrus and orchard fruit flavors. Over time the generous mouthfeel is really extraordinary and if you pop and pour this champagne you quite simply won’t have a chance to take in this experience. This bigger style of champagne really needs a white wine glass or larger stem that gives it proper air. For Vigneron Christophe Baron, he finds that proper stemware is absolutely necessary for his bigger style of champagne. He prefers to open his champagne and enjoy without a decant using white wine glasses — letting air allow the champagne to evolve. If you love utilizing a champagne flute, Riedel makes champagne glass just for Dom Perignon that are wide and help the wine naturally aerate. I also love their Fatto A Mano champagne glass that is both functional and beautiful.

Oregon bubbles master and microbiologist Rollin Soles first started making sparkling wines more than 20 years ago. He put Argyle on the national map with those outstanding sparkling wines and has been more recently been crafting some of the finest sparkling wines in North America at his ROCO winery. Years ago Rollin was surprised how effective a short decant was with Dom Perignon. He explained “I made a claim to a great Sommelier in NYC that Dom Perignon was not all its reputed to be.  He proceeded to show me not just one but TWO (Brut and Brut Rosè) Champagnes that he’d decanted into chilled carafes. The wines were spectacular! I guessed they were anything but Dom Perignon. I found that decanting is a great way to enjoy great sparkling wines especially if you serve with the carafe cold.”

Certainly some bottles of Dom Perignon do not really need a decant. This is true with older wines and I certainly found this to be the case with the latest editions of ‘P2.’ Tasting the 2004 ‘P2’ this was a remarkable wine right out of the gate and the same was true with an older ‘P2’ from the epic 2000 vintage. The 2000 was astonishingly good and continued to evolve over the first hour with air, immediately gratifying with its truffle, melon, fig and citrus fruit notes.

Washington sparkling wine producer Chris Sherry of Elentone agrees that a short decant can enhance a youthful wine. “I think people sometimes forget sparkling wine is wine and therefore comes with many of the same traits” he explains. “Some sparkling wines can be made in a reductive manner or other way which means they might need decanting, particularly when young.”

One of my favorite wines of the world is the ‘Grand Siecle’ by Laurent-Perrier. Over the past year I have tasted roughly a dozen bottles of Laurent-Perrier ‘Grand Siecle’ editions 25 and 26. The 25 has a base from the 2008 vintage and is still extremely tightly wound from this beautiful vintage, needing about 20 minutes in the decanter to be fully aroused. Standing alone without a decant, I’ve found that it needs more than an hour of air right now and greatly benefits from a 30 minute decant in a narrow carafe. The same is true with the incredible ‘Grand Siecle’ 26 ed. This wine if standing alone requires more than an hour to be fully expressive aromatically and flavors wise. However, after 30 minutes in the decanter it is  really showing beautiful flavor and aromatic range.

Many restaurants are open to decanting champagne. During my last several visits to Bourbon Steak Seattle (which recently closed) their wine director, Jonathan Valencia, decanted Krug Grand Cuvee ed.170, 2012 and 2013 Dom Perignon and 2014 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs. Top winemakers that enjoy champagne also are known decant their vintage champagnes. I recently enjoyed the 2014 Cristal and Laurent-Perrier ‘Grand Siecle’ No. 26 which were both decanted together with a famed Washington winemaker over the Christmas holiday.

The sommelier community is generally open to decanting champagnes depending on the right wine. Master Sommelier Nick Davis admits that his “feelings regarding decanting are varied, and never follow a strict rule.” He noted “For all wines, decanting can offer numerous benefits.” He continues “Specifically on the topic of Champagne, decanting can be useful for raising the temperature of the wine, removing the bubbles, and potentially enhancing the aromatic possibilities of the wine. Oxidative styles such as those by Jacques Selosse and Frédéric Savart are better suited to be served from the bottle, in contrast to more-reductive cuvées like those by Ruinart, Salon, and Pierre Gimonnet. Many wine drinkers will find dismay with a loss of bubbly effervescence, so the technique of decanting Champagne is best employed when permission is granted by the guest.” Master Sommelier Davis agreed that a proper decanter is imperative in this case. “Narrow-gauge decanters such as the Riedel Amadeo or Zalto Carafe are useful in controlling the loss of gas, while still encouraging the benefits of some added air and increased temperature.” Finally Davis states “I approach decanting the decision on a bottle-by-bottle basis, and not with any automatic rules or guidelines. A useful tip is to take a small taste of the wine when it is new and fresh from the bottle, to estimate if decanting for aromatics will even be necessary. Should the wine feel shut-down, shy, or overly reductive in flavor, then some extra air is in order.”

Advanced sommelier and former wine director at Bourbon Steak Seattle, Paul Swanson, believes that decanting champagne depends on the right wine and the right situation. “Any true wine connoisseur’s goal is to maximize how well a wine can show once that cork is popped” he said. “A younger wine that just aged anaerobically and/or underwent autolysis for years can benefit from a brief decant to allow oxygen contact to the wine to maximize its showing potential. This can enhance aromatics and overall enjoyment, especially if the wine is consumed rather quickly or shared with a larger group of individuals.” Similar to Master Sommelier Davis, Swanson finds that a decant also depends on the winemaking, noting “Seeing that the wine underwent secondary fermentation and many years of lees aging in the bottle, it can hold its bubbles and effervescence much more than a sparkling wine that was forced carbonated or has gone through the brief Charmat Method. You can have a wine with trapped Sulfides or reductive elements that can benefit from a brief aeration. Champagne aged under brand new oak or many, many years of lees contact welcomes air contact.”

In short, I’m a firm believer in decanting youthful champagnes based on my experience of experimenting with decant and non-decant with many of the world’s top bottlings. This is contention I make based on my individual experience, theory and palate, but much of the sommelier and winemaking community also agrees that decanting a youthful champagne can be really important for the wine to show best in terms of flavors and aromatics. Try it for yourself with a youthful champagne and I think you will be impressed with how the decant enhances your wine experience.

Amos Rome

A really exciting newer house in Chelan County, Amos Rome relies on two vineyards for their wines. They have an estate site which is planned to a wide range of varietals including Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon. They also utilize their High Blossom Vineyard located three miles from the tasting room and is set at 2000 feet. The location is planted to Riesling (planted in 2003), Grüner Veltliner (planted in 2019), and a block of Tempranillo & Albariño (planted in 2021).

Owners Travis and Brianna Clark run the winery, while Travis makes the wine, having formerly interned at JM Cellars. He has completed a WSU Viticulture Certificate program. The new wines were really good across the board. I love the 2022 Amos Rome ‘High Blossom’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 91) which is bright and beautifully textured - made from Riesling grapes. The best wine I tasted was the 2021 Amos Rome ‘Concrete’ Malbec (OB, 92) which is dense and chewy with some good aging potential. Learn more at https://www.amosrome.com/ and here are my reviews of the new Amos Rome wines.

2021 Amos Rome ‘Block ’98’ Sparkling Wine- Made from mostly Pinot Noir grapes (72%), this offers a soft mousse with juicy starfruit and brioche notes on the palate with Pazzaz apple and shades of candied ginger. The soft mousse adds to the refinement as this is best enjoyed now and over the next several years to come. Drink 2024-2030- 91

2022 Amos Rome ‘High Blossom’ Sparkling Wine- This Riesling sparkling wine was given one year of lees aging before disgorgement. Pretty and bright, this revels in its sweet peach and pear flavors. Drink now. Drink 2024-2027- 90

2022 Amos Rome ‘Dionne’s Vineyard’ Chenin Blanc- Kiwi and pear notes mark the palate in this juicy Chenin Blanc. Dry and neatly textured, enjoy now and over the next few years while the beautiful tension remains intact. Drink 2024-2027- 90

2021 Amos Rome Tempranillo- Coming from the Lake Chelan AVA, this offers juicy red fruit flavors with tobacco leaf and a smooth texture on the palate. Citrus rind notes round out this well-made wine that has some good aging potential. Drink 2024-2031- 91

2020 Amos Rome Merlot- The 2020 Amos Rome Merlot comes from their estate vineyard from a block that neighbors their tasting room. This is juicy and rich Merlot that offers black cherry compote, espresso grounds and black tea flavors alongside well-defined tannins. Delicious now, consume over the next few years. Drink 2024-2029- 91

2021 Amos Rome ‘Concrete’ Malbec- This 2021 Malbec was stored in concrete tanks before bottling. On the nose this takes on layers of black florals that mingle well with juicy blackberry and black cherry notes. The palate is soft and refined with a wonderful sense of texture and elegance once on the mouth. Seamless and delicious, enjoy this outstanding bottling now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2024-2034- 92

Dusted Valley

Today we share with you one of the great consistent producers of red and white wines. Over time I have noticed a level of consistency that has been made with these wines. These are wines that embody richness, mouthfeel, texture and good underlying acidity. Do not let the screw cap enclosure trick you — these are very serious wines that age gracefully, as I have recently had wines from 2015 and 2017 that were cellaring beautifully from my personal collection.

Dusted Valley was founded by the Johnson and Braunel families who are originally from Wisconsin and have strong backgrounds in farming. They source from some of the great vineyards in Washington, including the Olsen Vineyard and Stoney Vine Vineyard. Don’t miss out on the new sparkling wine by them, the 2020 ‘Falx’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 92) which has good verve and a smooth mousse. I love the 2022 Dusted Valley ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is a standout Chard from what I think is going to be a serious vintage for white wines in Washington State. Learn more about these beautiful new wines at https://www.dustedvalley.com Here are my reviews of the great new wines by Dusted Valley.

2020 Dusted Valley ‘Falx’ Sparkling Wine- This Blanc de Noirs bottling comes rom the Breezy Slope Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley. A labor of love, this was stored on the lees for 10 months before tirage and then aged an additional 22 months on yeast before hand disgorging and bottling. A pretty light salmon color, this delivers tart red fruit flavors with hints of yellow plum and cardamom dusted brioche. Salty and really refined, enjoy this beautiful sparkling wine now and over the next ten years. Drink 2023-2033- 92

2022 Boomtown Chardonnay- The 2022 Boomtown Chardonnay delivers for the price. Juicy pear and apple flavors mingle well with cantaloupe and copious minerals on the palate. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2026- 90

2022 Dusted Valley ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The opulent and neatly textured 2022 Dusted Valley ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Chardonnay is another outstanding edition of this wine. It comes off ripe and fat on the mouth, with bright underlying acidity. Layers of beeswax and honeydew melon combine with green apple, baking spice laced brioche and hints of papaya on the palate. Complex and delicious, with fantastic underlying verve, enjoy this beauty now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2022 Dusted Valley ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc- This 2022 Sauvignon Blanc comes from this Yakima Valley, slightly cooler location that sits at an elevation of 880-1,350 feet. Stored in oak barrels, this was obviously given some battonage based on the really good mouthfeel. Nutmeg dusted pie crust, almondine and shades of green melon all combine with Meyer lemon zest and nutty accents on the palate. Really good, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next five plus years. Don’t serve this beauty too cold to take in the outstanding range of flavors. Drink 2023-2029- 92

2021 Boomtown Merlot- This 2021 Columbia Valley Merlot delivers red cherry and cocoa powder laced red cherry aromas alongside shades of underbrush. The palate is plush and smooth, with no rough edges. Straightforward and juicy red and dark fruit flavors mingle with mierals and a neatly done texture on the palate. Sturdy, showing good weight, enjoy this outstanding value now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2021 Boomtown Cabernet Sauvignon- The really good 2021 Boomtown Cabernet Sauvignon offers bright black currant blackberry flavors alongside a smooth mouthfeel on the palate. Fruit-forward, yet nicely structured, enjoy this medium-bodied wine now. Drink 2023-2029- 90

2021 Boomtown Syrah- Dark in the glass, the 2021 Boomtown Syrah shows off violets and lavender on the palate alongside rich dark chocolate flavors. Showing good richness, length and finesse, this really good stuff for the price. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2021 Dusted Valley ‘Wallywood’ Red Wine- Coming from the Stone Tree Vineyard in the Wahluke Slope AVA, the wine combines 84% Mourvédre, with 11% Syrah, and 5% Grenache. It displays beautiful purity of red fruits once on the mouth. Layers of tobacco leaf and stony accents combine with milk chocolate flavors. Really good now, enjoy this beautiful GSM inspired wine now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2020 Dusted Valley ‘BFM’ Merlot- Coming entirely from their estate Southward Vineyard, the 2020 ‘BFM’ is soft and round on the mouth, with generous black fruit and cocoa nib flavors alongside shades of coffee grounds and refined tannins. This has a large portion of Cabernet Sauvignon (18%) blended in which is really providing good structure right now. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2021 Dusted Valley ‘Squirrel Tooth Alice’ Red Wine- A combination of 88% Grenache with the remainder Syrah. Coming from the Stone Tree Vineyard this displays plenty of juicy red fruit character alongside Mandarin orange rind, pipe tobacco and dusty soil flavors. Showing good poise and weight, this is drinking beautifully right now. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Dusted Valley ‘Barrel Thief’ Primitivo- Heady and rich, this 2021 Zinfandel was sourced from the famed Stone Tree Vineyard in the Wahluke Slope AVA. They have blended in a large portion of Petite Sirah from this site. It is very nicely structured, with good weight and opulence once on the mouth. Layers of tobacco leaf and tar combine with boysenberry cordial and shades of mocha on the palate. This is already shining brightly and will go for another eight plus years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Dusted Valley ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This outstanding 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon has a touch of Petit Verdot (4%) blended in. Anise, dark currants and tar with tobacco leaf aromatics all fill the glass. The palate is superb, showing wonderful refinement, texture and weight, showing off the potential for great red wines made in this warm vintage. Bravo! Drink 2024-2034- 93

2021 Dusted Valley ‘Sohthwind Estate Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc- This 2021 Cabernet Franc was sourced from the Southwind Estate Vineyard and then was stored in 35% new French oak before bottling. Dried herbs and dark cherry notes mark the nose alongside red rose petals and suggestions of chocolate. The palate is soft and refined with great concentration and lovely loamy soil tones, with a rich core of dark fruits and red florals. Fantastic now, enjoy this well-structured and complex bottling for at least another decade. Drink 2024-2036- 93

2021 Dusted Valley ‘Southwind Estate Vineyard’ Malbec- This 2021 Estate Malbec bottling was stored in only 38% new French oak before bottling. Blended with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and a dash of Petit Verdot, this shows off its inky core in the glass, revealing rich dark chocolate shavings and Turkish coffee with suggestions of creme de violette on the palate. The non-fruit flavors are really rocking right now. Drink 2024-2034- 93

2021 Dusted Valley ‘Ranchis’ Syrah- The 2021 ‘Ranchis’ comes from the Breezy Slope Vineyard. This fantastic new Syrah offers iron, bulls blood and rich red currant cordial flavors alongside toasty oak and dusty soils on the palate. Soft and elegant on the mouth, this is drinking marvelously even now at the three year mark. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2021 Dusted Valley ‘Stained Tooth’ Syrah- The 2021 ‘Stained Tooth’ Syrah comes from the Southwind, Stoney Vine and Stone Tree Vineyards. Stored in only 17% new French oak, this offers lovely briny and salty tones from the Rocks fruit, melding well with Linzer torte, crushed wet rock, violets and suggestions of black pepper dusted bacon. Complex and delicious, this has fantastic flavor and aromatics range. Drink 2024-2032- 93

2021 Dusted Valley ‘Tall Tales’ Syrah- The 2021 ‘Tall Tales’ comes from the famed Stoney Vine Vineyard in the Walla Walla Rocks District. Stored in only neutral oak puncheons, this opens with aromas of iodine, charcuterie and dark currants that parade with coffee grounds and green olive tapenade notes. The palate is silky smooth throughout the drinking experience, as the salty and stony accents really shine. No need to cellar this beauty. Drink 2024-2030- 94

Passing Time

Happy National Championship day Dawg fans! Today we share one of the jewels of Washington State. Passing Time was founded by NFL legends Dan Marino and Damon Huard, utilizing the talents of famed winemaker Chris Peterson. The wines have been amazing since their first 2012 vintage. Chris Peterson was the first graduate of the Walla Walla Community College’s Enology and Viticulture program and working at DeLille for eight years under legendary winemaker Chris Upchurch. He makes wines that are very well-structured and are built for aging. These are big and bold wines that age so well.

2021 has been as consistent as it comes for red wines in Washington. It is a hot vintage but one that not only has very good concentrated fruit and non-fruit flavors but one that has impressive underlying finesse —certainly better acidity than the extremely hot 2015 vintage. In some ways this year is reminiscent of 2018 in its overall consistency.

The best wine that I tasted is a very special bottling from the Wallula Vineyard. The 2021 Passing Time ‘Block 1311’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 99) flirts with perfection. Dense and chewy with a pillowy mouthfeel, this is a must-buy for any serious lover of Washington Cabernet.  Learn more about this fantastic  boutique winery at http://www.passingtime.com Here is my reviews of the new Passing Time wines. And GO DAWGS!

2022 Passing Time ‘Columbia Valley’ Chardonnay- The 2022 ‘Columbia Valley’ by Passing Time comes from some pretty esteemed sites including Connor Lee and Celilo Vineyards. The wine is seamless and soft on the mouth with incredible elegance and great underlying verve. Brioche and creme brûlée notes combine with marzipan and shades of Meyer lemon curd. Showing a fabulous combination of finesse and texture, with outstanding length, this full-bodied beauty is one of the great Chardonnays made in Washington State. Enjoy now and at least for another eight to ten years. Drink 2023-2031-95

2021 Passing Time ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Merlot- 100% varietal and coming from this famed site in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, the outstanding 2021 Passing Time ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Merlot offers steak tartare, black cherry compote and mocha tones on the nose with freshly tilled soils. The palate is soft and seamless with a generous mouthfeel and glorious sense of length. Finishing long with dense black and red fruits alongside stony minerals and loamy soils, this stunning new Merlot is already drinking beautifully at the three year mark. Enjoy now and over the next fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2021 Passing Time ‘Columbia Valley’ Red Wine- The 2021 Passing Time ‘Columbia Valley’ Red Wine is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (76%, mostly from Andrews Vineyard) with 14% Merlot and the remainder Cabernet Franc both sourced from the Champoux Vineyard. The palate is soft and refined with a silky texture and beautiful elegance. Rich dark fruits parade with chocolate cake, Asian spices and shades of nutmeg with coffee grounds on the palate. Rich and bold, with a smooth texture, enjoy now and over the next eight plus years to come. Drink 2024-2032- 93

2021 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This 2021 ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ bottling mainly comes from the Discovery and Wallula Vineyards. Nearly all Cabernet Sauvignon (88%), the total heavyhitter of a wine opens with dense black floral tones that parade with espresso grounds, tar, tobacco leaf and shades of sagebrush that all take shape in the glass. The palate is seamless and very inviting with a smooth texture and fantastic flavor density. Black and blue fruits greet you alongside creme de violette, cassis and Turkish coffee notes, with underbrush accents. A joy to consume now, enjoy now and over the next twenty years to come. Drink 2024-2044- 97

2021 Passing Time ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon has a small portion of Cabernet Franc blended in, as this mainly comes from the Klipsun, Heart of the Hill and Red Mountain Vineyards. Stored in 80% new French oak, the wine opens with a beautiful bouquet of violets, scorched earth, smoked brisket and suggestions of black olive tapenade. The palate is plush and round with a generous mouthfeel. The combination of viscosity and underlying verve really makes this tick, as this beautiful wine is already singing at the three year mark. Drink 2024-2044- 96

2021 Passing Time ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 Passing Time ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon was mostly sourced from the Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills Vineyard. Stored in 60% new French oak, this offers beautiful dried herbs on the nose with black rose petals, graphite and anise notes alongside blackberry pie. The palate is smooth and viscous with a seamless texture. Dense and chewy, this is both hedonistic in its dark fruit profile yet walks the tightrope with fantastic verve and elegance. This borders perfection in a bottle. Drink 2024-2044- 98

2021 Passing Time ‘Block 1311’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Block 1311’ is named after Dan Marino and Damon Huard’s jersey numbers, as this wine was entirely sourced for the Wallula Vineyard which neighbors the Columbia River. Pillowy and soft, this is seamless stunning wine that is meant to be enjoyed with friends and family. Creme de violette, asphalt, cassis, Arabica bean and blueberry compote flavors all magically combine with stony and salty soil components. Texturally downright ethereal, this beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon will deliver drinking enjoyment for another twenty years. But why wait? Drink 2024-2048- 99

Beringer

For years I have loved the historic wineries of the Napa Valley. Beringer is one of the oldest on the west coast, dating all the way back back to the 1860s. I first tasted at Beringer over twenty years ago and it is always a welcome experience to come back to this expansive spot in St. Helena. I have very fond memories of older bottles of their ‘Private Reserve’ Chardonnay as these are some of the most age worthy Chardonnays you will find in Napa. Winemaker Ryan Rech came to Napa more than a decade ago, where he led winemaking for the relaunch of the Souverain wines crafted in the historic Asti winery, and later, working alongside famed Chateau St. Jean winemaker Margo Van Staaveren. In 2016, Ryan joined Beringer Vineyards as Luxury Red Winemaker and crafted wines from the Knight’s Valley estate. He was appointed Sr. Winemaker and General Manager in 2017 and elevated to Chief Winemaker in 2021, following the line of Mark Beringer, the great-grandson of Beringer Vineyards’ founding brother Jacob Beringer

Do not miss out on the incredible new 2021 ‘Private Reserve’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) which is one of the great Chardonnays from the region that I have tasted in the past year. Another sensational value buy is the 2019 Beringer ‘Knights Valley Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 94) which is dense and chewy with a seamless mouthfeel. Learn more about these awesome wines at beringer.com Here are the awesome new premium wines by Beringer Vineyards.

2021 Beringer ‘Private Reserve’ Chardonnay- The 2021 Beringer ‘Private Reserve’ Chardonnay is sourced from the Gamble Ranch Vineyard, as this 2021 Chardonnay shows really good opulence once on the mouth. Layers of butterscotch and toasted almond combine with baking spice dusted pie crust and lemon cream flavors on the palate. Rich and decadent, don’t serve too warm to take in the gorgeous range of flavors. This beauty will easily live on for another decade. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2020 Beringer ‘Knights Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon shows well with plenty of juicy blackberry and black cherry notes alongside refined tannins on the palate. Drink 2024-2030- 90

2019 Beringer ‘Knights Valley Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2019 Beringer ‘Knights Valley Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon is inky in the glass, showing dark currants and pencil lead notes alongside boysenberry fruits. The palate is plush and soft with a refined texture and great sense of weight. This is quite simply a fabulous wine for the price. Drink 2024-2034- 94

2020 Beringer ‘Private Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 Beringer ‘Private Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an outstanding new bottling that comes from this challenging vintage in the Napa Valley.  The wine mainly comes from Oakville’s Borrow Pit Vineyard (49%) as well as Mt. Veeder’s Lampyridae Vineyard (47%).This 100% varietal wine that was stored for 20 months in new French oak (65% new). It comes off rich and refined with big tannins that frame a big core of blackberry, black cherry and black tea flavors. Generous and delicious, consume now and over the next eight plus years to come. Drink 2024-2032- 94

Liminal

Today we share one of the top producers of red wine in the Pacific Northwest. Liminal has taken the wine community by storm since its inception. All wines are sourced from the famed WeatherEye Vineyard (https://www.weathereyevineyard.com) which is set on a windswept ridgeline of Red Mountain in Washington State and is planted to 30 acres of Rhône, Bordeaux, and Spanish varieties. There is nothing like this in the state. The vineyard ranges from 950’ to 1410’ of elevation, and has extreme slopes and soils ranging from dune sand to fractured bedrock basalt. Ryan Johnson serves as vineyard manager, having previously managed the esteemed Ciel du Cheval Vineyard for 15 years. Ryan farms this vineyard meticulously and wines from this site have a very wild appearance from the sagebrush, rabbitbrush and yarrow as well as many other native plants that can be found amongst the vines.

The wines captivate the senses with the wild character from the underbrush and surrounding plants. I was enamored by the fall releases and the spring 2024 releases are nothing short of world-class. One of the outstanding Washington wines that I have tasted in the past year, the 2021 Liminal ‘Block 47’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 98) is burly and bold with a terrific feeling of tension with every sip. This is simply irresistible wine that will surely captivate you with its stunning power and precision. Learn more at https://www.liminalwine.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Liminal Wines.

2021 Liminal ‘Block 16’ Syrah- Coming from the WeatherEye Vineyard, this 2021 Syrah stands very inky once in the glass. The aromatic density is flat out fabulous with yarrow, black rose petals, smoked brisket and shades of creme de violette. The palate is deep and concentrated with serious verve and viscosity. A total joy to consume now, this should live on for another fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2039- 96

2021 Liminal ‘The Mountain Tower’ Red WIne- A new wine to the Liminal lineup, the 2021 ‘The Mountain Tower’ is a Cabernet Franc dominant wine (52%) with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and the reminder Merlot. The result is totally head-turning with a seamless texture and refined tannins that line a massive wall of black fruit flavors alongside Turkish coffee grounds and bitter dark chocolate shavings with herbal accents. Complex and delicious, this is drinking marvelously now and will live on for another twenty years. Drink 2024-2044- 96

2021 Liminal ‘Block 47’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Seriously good even now, the 2021 Liminal ‘Block 47’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a masterpiece made by winemaker Chris Peterson. On the nos this exudes class with outstanding aromatic complexity. Violets, sagebrush, loamy soils, espresso grounds and blueberry compote all mark the nose. The palate is big and burly with serious weight and underlying finesse. Loads of mouth-watering acidity greet you, as this is loaded with a opulent core of black and blue fruits, with graphite and Arabica bean flavors. A total stunner, give this about 30 minutes in the decanter if consuming now. Drink 2024-2046- 98

In Memoriam: Constance Savage, Former COO of L'Ecole No. 41

It brings me great sadness to share the passing of Connie (Constance) Savage-Frokic. Constance was a cherished friend, an astute business woman, a devoted wife and loving mother. She understood the strategic workings of the wine industry and cherished the relationships that she developed with all of you. Hired in 2018, I was fortunate to know Constance with her role as Chief Operating Officer at L’Ecole No. 41. Prior to that job Constance worked for Kobrand, being in charge of some of the finest wine brands of the world.

I had many phone calls and emails with Constance as well as some precious time tasting together. She had a tremendous palate, having tasted the finest wines of the world — many times over! She loved her top Italian wines in particular, having tasted vertical that would blow your mind. She had a kindness and presence that I will not soon forget.

Constance was a devoted mother and loved spending time at home with her family and particularly enjoyed gardening. The wine community welcomes you to attend her celebration of life in in Walla Walla on February 4th at L’Ecole’s Schoolhouse in Lowden, WA.

Please keep Connie’s family, husband Leopold, daughter Eleonora, son Luka, daughter Emilia, her parents, Thomas and Coleen Savage, her brother and his wife, Cory and Shelly Savage, her sister, Christa Mesz, and her husband, Bryan, as well as her sister, Carla Bleil in your hearts and prayers during this difficult time. May Constance’s memory be a blessing to all who knew her.

Cameron Parry Joins J. Bookwalter as Director of Winemaking and Viticulture

Today we have some big news out of the Tri-Cities. Cameron Parry has been hired as Director of Winemaking and Viticulture. Parry joins the winery’s senior leadership team and will oversee all grape growing and winemaking activities for the 50,000-case, Richland-based winery. He also will have a hand in winery operations and the company’s go-to-market strategies.

For years I have admired the wines that he made for Groth, one of Napa’s gems. The wines were well-structured and rich, as Cameron made an incredible range of wines from deep and inky Cabernet to bright and beautifully textured Sauvignon Blanc. Prior to that he was making beautiful wines for Chateau Montelena. Wishing Cameron the best and congratulations to J. Bookwalter for hiring one of the Pacific Northwest’s great winemaking talents.

Mt. Brave

Napa Valley is producing some of North America’s best Cabernet Franc — wines that deserve their place on the world stage. A winery that has truly beautiful and novel terroir, Mt. Brave pays homage to a the pioneering spirit of those who settled the rugged terrain of Mt. Veeder during the 1800s.

The majestic Mt. Brave Vineyard is a high elevation site that is set on gravelly loam with large rocks throughout. This is very labor intensive land to farm and the wines from this site show incredible density of fruit but also wonderful, earthy terroir. The elevation also adds to the freshness in the core of the wine.

For years I have admired the wines by Chris Carpenter who is one of Napa’s great maestros of red wine. Chris has crafted another stunning release, this coming from the 2019 vintage. The 2019 Mt. Brave ‘Mt. Veeder’ Cabernet Franc (OB, 96) shows serious concentration and verve with amazing flavor range. Find out more about this famed winery at mtbravewines.com Here is my review of the 2019 Mt. Brave Cabernet Franc.

2019 Mt. Brave Cabernet Franc- The 2019 Mt. Brave Cabernet Franc is a stunning new wine by Chris Carpenter. Very inky in the glass, this 100% varietal wine offers insanely good aromatic range from mulberry to huckleberry compote, espresso grounds, wet stone and shades of black licorice. The palate is soft and refined with a great underlying verve and beautiful texture. This is just sensational wine that is drinking beautifully now at the near four year mark. Tasted twice with consistent notes. Drink 2023-2040- 96

Ramey

It isn’t easy passing the torch to the new generation. One of the most celebrated winemakers in the United States, David Ramey and his wife Carla Ramey are proprietors of Ramey Wine Cellars, producer of some of the best Chardonnay on this planet. David and Carla have been together for 30 years and have helped transform the California wine scene. In 2022 David was given an lifetime achievement award from Sonoma County Vintners for his contributions to the industry. For many years he has crafted wines from some of the great vineyards in Sonoma, including the Hyde and Ritche Vineyards. The wines all have a beginning, middle and an end, and show beautiful harmony and depth. Over the years David has moved from natural corks to DIAM and also has dialed back the oak treatment in the wines, now at roughly 20-25%.

I’ve tasted several times with David and have seen how incredible these wines are with age. I have some of these wines in my personal cellar as well which is always fun to revisit and see how they are cellaring. We met less than a year ago and with a gleam in his wife he talked about his children, Claire and Alan Ramey and their contributions to the winery. Claire and Alan have assumed ownership of the winery and estate vineyard, Westside Farms.

The new wines were gorgeous across the board. I was amazed by the 2021 Ramey ‘Rochioli Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 96) which is amongst the finest wines of this kind that I have tasted from Ramey. Deep and rich, with tropical fruit notes, this could easily be a 15-20 year wine. Even better was the sinfully good 2017 Ramey ‘Pedregal Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 97) which is impeccably balanced and has beautiful herbal notes from the Petite Verdot. Sturdy and built like a brick house, this Cabernet is already shining brightly now. Learn more about these incredible wines at  http://www.rameywine.com Here are the great new releases by Ramey.

2021 Ramey ‘Woolsey Road Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Dense on the palate, the Woolsey Road Vineyard’ comes form a site that is located immediately south from the Martinelli winery. This 2021 Chardonnay was planted by the Martinellis for David Ramey back in the mid-2000s. This Wente Clonal selection Chardonnay was stored in 24% new French oak for 20 months before bottling. Big on the mouth, this offers ripe banana and suggestions of papaya flavors, with strong flinty underpinnings. Finishing exceedingly long, enjoy this beauty now and over the next decade. Drink 2022-2034- 95

2021 Ramey ‘Ritchie Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Talk about a world-class Chardonnay, the 2021 Ramey ‘Ritche Vineyard’ Chardonnay is a stunning bottling coming from the Russian River Valley. This location is planted to Old Wente selection, with a few scattered Musqué selection vines planted in 1972. The nose shows beautiful range from nutty and earthy tones alongside toasty oak, pastry crust, with cinnamon and cardamom notes. The palate has great weight and verve, laden with Meyer lemon zest, baking spice laced brioche, roasted pineapple and hazelnut flavors. Be sure to serve this on the warmer side to take in the thrilling flavor and aromatic range. Drink 2023-2036- 96

2021 Ramey ‘Woolsey Road’ Chardonnay- The 2021 Ramey ‘Woolsey Road’ Chardonnay is a stunning new wine by winemaker Claire Ramey. This wine comes from this site which is owned by the Martinelli family and was planted to our specifications in 2007. Stored for 20 months in 20% new French oak, this offers a soft mouthfeel with a vibrant underlying tension once on the mouth. Layers of beeswax and wild mushroom combine with rich melon fruits, with hints of marzipan and starfruit on the palate. Showing excellent weight and flavor density, this is really singing even so young. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2021 Ramey ‘Rochioli Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Coming from this Russian River site planted by Tom Rochioli, the 2021 Ramey ‘Rochioli Vineyard’ Chardonnay is comprised of 82% Mid-40 block vines and 18% River block vines. It is dazzling on the mouth, with serious verve as this effortlessly glides throughout the drinking experience. Ripe banana and pineapple flavors offer an exotic edge, with nutmeg drenched French bread and Macadamia nut flavors add to the balance. Big and rich with plenty of depth, this is drinking great now at the two year mark. Drink 2023-2036- 96

2021 Ramey ‘Westside Farms’ Chardonnay- The outstanding 2021 Ramey ‘Westside Farms’ Chardonnay (Clone 4) comes from this 75-acre ranch on Westside Road, has been in use as farmland since the middle 1800s. The Chardonnay was harvested and then cellared for 18 months in concrete eggs before bottling. The aromatics are beautiful with lemon curd, vanilla cream and shades of kumquat zest alongside brioche tones. The palate is soft and seamless with serious length and a dazzling underlying freshness. Finishing long with cream and copious minerals, this scintillating wine will easily go for another twelve plus years in the cellar. Drink 2023-2035- 96

2018 Ramey ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir- This 2019 ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir mostly comes from the Shiloh Glen and 25% Dutton Goff Vineyards.Given 25% whole cluster fermentation, the wine was stored in 45% new French oak for 18 months before bottling. The palate is rich and viscous with great underlying tension, displaying bright cranberry, Bing cherry, and red raspberry fruit flavors alongside shades of cola, sassafras and freshly tilled salty soils. Complex and delicious, with great energy, this will be a long-ager. Drink 2023-2037- 94

2020 Ramey ‘Sonoma Coast’ Syrah- Entirely sourced from the Cole Creek Vineyard, the 2020 Ramey ‘Sonoma Coast’ Syrah comes from this location set on Felta clay loam, with some sections reaching up to 90% rock. It is rich and nicely textured once on the mouth, with creme de violette, asphalt, black currants and black cherry cordial flavors alongside a good underlying verve. Really good now, enjoy over the next seven plus years to come. Drink 2023-2030- 94

2017 Ramey ‘Rodgers Creek Vineyard’ Syrah- The outstanding 2017 Ramey ‘Rodgers Creek Vineyard’ Syrah comes from this location set on old, rocky volcanic soils that were planted to Syrah Clones 877 and 470, with three rows of Viognier. The Syrah has a large portion (12%) of Viognier blended in, and was 25% whole cluster fermented as this opens with heady aromatics of smoked pork shoulder, garrigue, white pepper dusted bacon and bright red fruits. The palate is seamless and neatly textured with great balance and high-tones from the Viognier. Showing good length and viscosity, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next twelve years to come. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2019 Ramey ‘Claret’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Claret’ by Ramey comes from the North Coast AVA. The wine combines mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (65%) with 10% Syrah, 9% Malbec, 8% Petit Verdot, and smaller portions Merlot, and Cabernet Franc.Stored in 20% new French & American oak barrels prior to bottling. The wine shows Earl Grey tea and juicy dark fruits that mingle well with the soft mouthfeel and chocolate with coffee ground nuances. Medium-bodied, showing good balance, enjoy now and over the next ten years to come. Drink 2023-2033- 92

2018 Ramey ‘Template’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Template’ is a Merlot-dominant ode to the wines of the Right Bank of Bordeaux. Mostly sourced from the Mt. Veeder AVA, this wine combines Merlot (68%) with 26% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. This is rich and neatly textured stuff once on the mouth. Tar and espresso ground flavors combine with anise, black currants, and shades of Black Forest Cake on the palate. Delicious and nicely balanced, with good weight and structure, this beauty will go on to cellar well for another fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2018 Ramey ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The fantastic 2018 Ramey ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon was mostly sourced from the Oak Knoll and Oakville AVAs. This has 7% Petit Verdot, 2% Merlot, and 2% Cab Franc blended in. Dark in the glass, the wine delivers a smooth texture upon entry. Layers of rich dark fruits parade with violets, tar, espresso grinds and shades of dark chocolate shavings. Really good now, watch this beauty evolve over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2035- 93

2017 Ramey ‘Pedregal Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A joy to consume right now, the pulsating 2017 Ramey ‘Pedregal Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a world-class bottling from this Healdsburg house. The wine comes from this small, hillside vineyard in the Oakville AVA and has 15% Petit Verdot blended in. It is incredibly well-balanced, as you can really take in the lush herbal tones from the Petit Verdot. Rich mocha and tar flavors combine with creme de cassis, exotic spices and shades of wet gravel on the palate. A total masterclass, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next twenty plus years and give it an hour in the decanter before consuming. Drink 2023-2043- 97

AniChe Cellars

Today we share one of the outstanding outposts in the Columbia Gorge AVA. A small family winery AniChe focuses on varietal blends that include rarely planted Italian varietals like Dolcetto, Barbera and Zinfandel (Primativo). The wines all have good richness and a really good tension that runs through their veins. I have been so impressed with these wines since I first tasted them nearly a decade ago. They are now making some killer bubbles as well that are a must-taste.

Anais Mera, and Rachael Horn make some beautiful wines together. They have crafted some beautiful new wines which were seriously good across the board. I loved the new 2020 AniChe ‘Titania’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 91) which is 100% Marsanne and is truly one of its kind. A standout white wine, the 2022 AniChe Cellars ‘No. 5’ White Wine (OB, 92) which is one of the really electric Bordeaux inspired white wines that I have tasted this year from Washington. Learn more about this exciting small Washington winery at http://anichecellars.com/ and here are my reviews of the new AniChe Cellars wines.

2020 AniChe Cellars ‘Titania’ Sparkling Wine- This 100% Marsanne sparkling wine has to be the only one of its kind in Washington State. This spent 20 months en tirage, as this shows a touch of sweetness on the palate. Yellow plum and brioche notes combine with quince and shades of Japanese pear on the palate. Don’t serve too cold to enjoy the great range here. Enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2022 AniChe Cellars ‘Puck’ Sparkling Wine- The Charmat method produced 2022 ‘Puck’ combines 75% Pinot Gris and the remainder Riesling. This is wonderfully salty with pear and kiwi notes alongside saline drenched peach flavors and French bread accents. With light stony accents, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2028- 90

2022 AniChe Cellars ‘Serafina’ Riesling- The 2022 ‘Serafina’ comes from the Hecate’s Key Vineyard in the Columbia Gorge AVA. It has a smooth texture, loaded with kiwi, Gravenstein apple, Brie cheese and wet stony accents on the palate. Enjoy this now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2028- 90

2022 AniChe Cellars ‘The Fool’ Gruner Veltliner- The 2022 ‘The Fool’ weights in at under 12% alcohol and also hails from the Columbia Gorge AVA. This is bright with plenty of mouth-watering acidity once on the entry. Layers of green papaya and gooseberry combine with hints of nectarine and wet gravel notes on the palate. Neatly textured, this is really going to rock with Thai food. Drink 2023-2030- 91

2022 AniChe Cellars ‘The Devil’ Gruner Veltliner- The 2022 ‘The Devil’ comes from the Hecate's Key Estate Vineyard and was picked midway through harvest. This has outstanding texture with a great sense of weight — yet comes off as very weightless. Kiwi, mango and Japanese pear flavors mingle with cashew crusted brioche bread notes on the palate. Don’t drink too cold to take in the outstanding flavor range. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2022 AniChe Cellars ‘The World’ Gruner Veltliner- The 2022 ‘The World’ was picked later in the season, also coming from the Hecate’s Key Estate Vineyard. It has a touch of sweetness and shows beautiful concentration, with walnut, buttered French bread, and Pizzaz apple flavors that mingle well with honeydew melon. Rich and dense, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next seven years to come. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2022 AniChe Cellars ‘No.5’ Chardonnay- The ‘No.5’ was fermented in clay amphorae and Italian cocciopresto. Coming from the their estate Hecate’s Key, this is very well-balanced, with a seamless texture and great sense of freshness. Buttered French bread flavors combine with shades of red delicious apple, kumquat zest, wet stone and suggestions of beeswax with marzipan accents. Complex and delicious, enjoy now and over the next five to seven years to come. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2021 AniChe Cellars ‘Three Witches’ Red Wine- The ‘Three Witches’ is a super unique blend of Carignan, Counoise and Mourvèdre from the Columbia Valley AVA. The end product is very juicy and delicious, delivering bright strawberry, guava zest, orange peel and red raspberry flavors alongside garriague and damp soil notes on the palate. Neatly textured and showing good freshness, this is drinking beautifully right now. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2021 AniChe Cellars ‘Arachne’ Nebbiolo- The 100% Nebbiolo ‘Arachne’ hails from the Red Mountain AVA. Soot and scorched earth notes combine with bright red fruits, and suggestions of garrigue on the nose. The palate is soft and refined with a smooth texture and great underlying freshness. Rich red fruit flavors parade with copious minerals and mouth-watering acidity on the palate. Totally novel and delicious, this is one of the most eye-catching red wines I have tasted from Washington this year. What a beauty! Drink 2023-2030- 93

2019 AniChe Cellars ‘Goat Boy’ Red Wine- A Bordeaux-inspired blend coming from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, the wine is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with smaller parts Malbec and Cabernet Franc. It has beautiful red florals, showing cocoa powder dusted red cherry flavors alongside freshly tilled soils, dark currants and tobacco leaf flavors. Really singing now at the four year mark, this beautiful red blend will hold on for another eight to ten years at least. Drink 2023-2031- 93