“These 100% varietal wines really need time” explained Chris Figgins as we tasted his range of Aglianico wines. “And there is good reason why Taurasi Agliancio wines are aged so long” he said. I too highly admire the Aglianico wines of the Taurasi region. These wines can initially be tannic monsters with brooding black fruits, rich herbs and chocolate flavored profiles. For years Figgins dreamed of adding to his portfolio, already having beautiful Sangiovese wines that are the finest in Washington State. Over time Figgins saw the potential to make great Aglianico wines in high elevation vineyards. In fact, it was all the way back in 2006 that he had a conversation with Winebow Italian wine manager and he was blown away with Aglianico wines that he was tasting. Finally in 2010 he took the plunge and planted Aglianico with his first full vintage being from 2013 — which at the time was one of the warmest ever in the Walla Walla Valley.
He saw his Serra Pedace Vineyard as the perfect site for such a varietal — a place which possesses thin soil types with fractured basalt. “This seemed like a natural fit and also Aglianico is late ripening so that was the best site for us because we wanted to make sure that it was ripe” he said. With the warm vintages coming on, he felt that the vines were well suited for this late ripening varietal.
In 2019 there was cooler temperatures which “Was fine because we made it through the frost.” Figggins sees this wine having “great rusticity. Our Sangio doesn’t have that Italian rusticity but I was delighted to see that Aglianico maintains that old world feel. It is pretty consistent that way.” The Leonetti Agliancio is a passion project which is partly aged (33%) in amphorae which Figgins feels not only brings a different texture but different range of flavors to the wine. “We get more pretty florals from the amphorae” Figgins explains.
We spent more than an hour tasting through vintages 2013-2018 of Aglianico. Considering the youth of the vines, we were both blown away with the quality in the first vintage — his 2013. The 2013 Leonetti Aglianico (OB, 95) is a masterclass wine that has softened considerable since release. Right now this has such a beautiful core of black fruits with so many non-fruit nuances. Even better and more brooding is the 2014 Leonetti Aglianico (OB, 96) which is rich and viscous from this warm vintage. The structure and weight of the wine suggests this will go for another fifteen years — or potentially more! Finally, I have no doubt that the best wine I tasted was the 2018 Leonetti Aglianico (OB, 96-98). This is the finest, richest, most beautifully-structured wine out of the tasting. Right now this is a tannic, hedonistic monster of a wine but I can’t wait to see where this beauty goes. Learn more about these incredible wines at leonetticellar.com and here are my reviews of an unforgettable vertical tasting of Leonetti Aglianico.
2013 Leonetti Aglianico- The 2013 Aglianico was stored for 44 months in French oak barrels and neutral oak barrels as well as terra-cotta amphorae. The palate is softy and refined with soft tannins that combine with a massive core of roasted figs, coffee grounds, dusty earth and blackberry cobbler with cremini mushroom shavings. This is really drinking well now as this beauty will go for many years to come. Drink 2023-2035- 95
2014 Leonetti Aglianico- A masterclass coming from this great vintage in Walla Walla the 2014 Aglianico is really deep and penetrating on the nose with a generous core of black and blue fruits. This is seamless on the mid-palate with a smooth texture. This has a fantastic flavor density with roasted figs, mocha, tar and also a truffle edge. Savory and salty, this is absolutely delicious wine to consume now and over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2023-2037- 96
2015 Leonetti Aglianico- Coming from this record warm vintage, the 2015 Aglianico is one marvelous showing from a tough vintage for red wines. Ripe bing cherry, cuban cigar, red rose water, orange rind and shades of salty soils all combine on the palate. Surely living on for another eight plus years, this is really in its sweet spot right now. Drink 2023-2031- 94
2016 Leonetti Aglianico- The 2016 Leonetti Aglianico is a stunning showing that is full-throttle and delicious now. This is jam-packed full of delicious flavors. Tar, huckleberry compote, black licorice and worn leather alongside espresso grounds and refined tannins all combine on the palate. Rich, viscous and deftly structured, this is already drinking beautifully and has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2038- 96
2017 Leonetti Aglianico- The 2017 Aglianico is a stunning showing from this vintage. On the nose this offers creosote and garrigue notes alongside chocolate and coffee ground notes. Vibrant and fresh with loads of mouth-watering acidity, this is drinking really well now and will live on for another fifteen plus years. Give this an hour or two of air if consuming now. Drink 2023-2038- 95
2018 Leonetti Aglianico (96-98)