Calera

Today we share a historic California producer that dates back to the 1970s. In the early 1970s Calera founder Josh Jensen was exploring Europe, and decided to work a harvest at famed winery Romanée-Conti. Josh was inspired to make great Pinot Noir in California and 1974, he purchased land located on steep slopes of Mount Harlan, a 3,278-foot peak in the Gavilan Mountains that divide Monterey and San Benito counties. Josh founded Calera in 1975 and p[anted his three estate vineyards: Jensen, Reed and Selleck.

Josh achieved incredible critical acclaim for his Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines. A few years back Calera was sold to the Duckhorn wine group as Josh noted that Calera was his “life work.” The winery itself is located in Hollister, and boasts sweeping views of the Diablo Mountain Range. Head winemaker Mike Waller previously worked as assistant winemaker at storied property Chalone, before coming to Calera. Mike has served as head winemaker for more than a decade now. I loved the new 2022 Calera ‘Central Coast’ Chardonnay (OB, 91) which is an amazing value. Don’t miss on the 2020 Calera ‘Mills Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is deep, stony and concentrated. Learn more about these outstanding new wines at https://www.calerawine.com Here are the great new releases by Calera.

2022 Calera ‘Central Coast’ Chardonnay- Sourced from Edna Valley vineyards, the 2022 ‘Central Coast’ Chardonnay was stored in only 10% new French oak before bottling. Juicy and soft on the mouth, offering poached pear, hazelnuts and vanilla cream flavors, this is already nicely evolved stuff. Drink 2024-2030- 91

2021 Calera ‘Mt. Harlan’ Chardonnay- A fantastic wine, the 2021 Calera ‘Mt. Harlan’ Chardonnay comes from a site set on limestone soils and set at roughly 2,200 feet elevation. Stored in 30% new French oak for 15 months, this delivers buttered brioche and salted nectarine flavors alongside wonderful flinty accents on the palate from this limestone terroir. Refined and elegant, with a soft mouthfeel, this is drinking marvelously now. Drink 2024-2034- 94

2022 Calera ‘Central Coast’ Pinot Noir- Coming from a range of sub-appellations in the Central Coast AVA, the wine was aged for 10 months in only 10% new French oak prior to bottling. Smooth on the mouth and light on its feet, the Pinot Noir offers lovely salty accents alongside bright Bing cherry, pomegranate seed and Mandarin orange zest flavors. This is already beautifully evolved stuff. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2020 Calera ‘Mills Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- An outstanding wine from a tough vintage, the 2020 Calera ‘Mills Vineyard’ Pinot Noir comes rom this site set at 2,200 feet. Aged for 18 months in 30% new French oak, this delivers beautiful texture and weight once on the palate. Rich red fruits parade with refined tannins, toasty oak and shades of white truffle shavings on the palate. A joy to consume now, savor over the next eight plus years to come. Drink 2024-2032- 94

2020 Calera ‘Ryan Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2020 ‘Ryan Vineyard’ comes from old vine Calera selection Pinot Noir clones. Stored in 30% new French oak for 18 months, this offers a smooth texture with ripe strawberry, Yakima cherry and salty soil flavors on the palate. Really good now, enjoy over the next eight plus years to come. Drink 2024-2032- 94

2020 Calera ‘Jensen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This comes from the limestone based Jensen Vineyard, as the wine underwent 100% whole cluster fermentation prior to being stored in 30% new French oak for 18 months. Tart cranberry, teaberry and dusty soils all mark the nose. The palate is ripe and round with a generous mouthfeel and loads of bright red fruit and citrus zest flavors. A show-stopper in a challenging vintage, hats off to the Calera winemaking team. Drink 2024-2032- 95

2020 Calera ‘Reed Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The Reed Vineyard was planted all the way back in 1975, as these Calera Selection Pinot Noir vines are set on limestone soils. Super smooth and elegant once on the mouth, this offers ripe loganberry flavors that combine with salty soils and shades of juicy Yakima cherry on the palate. Delicious now, this will evolve well over the next seven plus years. Drink 2024-2032- 95

2020 Calera ‘De Villiers Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2020 Calera ‘De Villiers Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was stored for 18 months in mainly neutral oak barrels (70%) prior to bottling. Concentrated red berry flavors mark the palate, with tobacco leaf and stony undertones. Delicious now, this will evolve well over the next seven years to come. Drink 2024-2032- 94

Groth

I have such fond memories tasting at Groth in the outside sun. One of Napa’s historic sites, Groth Vineyards was founded in 1982 by Judy and Dennis Groth. Prior to starting their winery they found financial success while working for Ernst and Young in the South Bay. Dennis became chief financial officer at Atari and in 1981 they both purchased a large 121 acre parcel of land in Oakville back in 1982. These vineyards are on the floor of Napa, right in the prime area for growing beautiful Chardonnay, and Bordeaux varietals. Today, second-generation family member Suzanne Groth leads the business. New winemaker Ted Henry has an impressive resume which includes former stints at jJarvis Estate and Clos du Val.

He has crafted some beautiful wines from tough vintages. I love the new 2021 Groth Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 92)  which is insanely good for the price and offers a lush texture. They did an amazing job crafting their 2020 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 92) which is an amazing accomplishment from 2020. Learn more about this great historic winery at https://www.grothwines.com Here are the fantastic new bottling by Groth. 

2022 Groth ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2022 ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc is a great wine made from a challenging harvest. This comes off big and generous on the palate, with plenty of body. Kiwi and ripe gooseberry flavors combine with stony and salty accents on the palate. The weight and texture really drive this excellent wine. Enjoy now. Drink 2024-2030- 92

2022 Groth ‘Hillview Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2022 Groth ‘Hillview Vineyard’ Chardonnay was aged sur lie in French oak barrels (only 14% new) for eight months before bottling. Rich and polished, the smooth texture entices. Layers of buttercream and cantaloupe combine with Japanese pear and nectarine with stony accents on the palate. Showing nice poise and weight, this is already drinking beautifully. Drink 2024-2030- 92

2020 Groth ‘Oakcross’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Oakcross’ is named after the original name given to the Groth’s Oakville Estate Vineyard when it was planted in 1973. The wine is a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot that was stored in mainly new French oak barrels for 21 months before bottling. Very inky in the glass, this delivers bitter chocolate, blackberry pie, tar and creme de violette flavors on the palate, with firm tannins providing grip. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2020 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon combines 85% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Merlot. Stored in 45% new French oak, this offers silky tannins that frame a core of beautiful black fruits, alongside coffee grounds, creosote and shades of graphite on the palate. This is seriously good considering the challenges faced this vintage. Drink 2024-2032- 92

Open Claim

An amazing, limited production Oregon winery, Open Claim has now for years been making some of the state’s premier Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Started in 2014 by Marnie and Brett Wall, Open Claim creates a bigger style of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that are complete wines with a beginning, middle and end. They use a limited amount of new oak, despite their fleshy character.

A winemaker needing no introduction, Tony Rynders is easily one of the Pacific Northwest’s finest winemakers Formerly with Hogue and Domaine Serene, Tony crafts some incredible wines for his own label, Tendril. He has been the winemaker at Open Claim and is doing an incredible job with this site.

2021 was a seamless vintage throughout Oregon with warm temperatures and limited heat spikes. I adored the new 2021 wines. The 2021 Open Claim ‘Flora’s Veil’ Pinot Noir (OB, 96) is one of the finest Oregon Pinot Noirs that I have tasted in the past year. Deeply concentrated and refined, this will go for two more decades — and is marvelous in its heady, full-throttle youth. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.openclaimvineyards.com/ Here are the brilliant 2021 releases by Open Claim. 

2021 Open Claim ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay- This beautiful 2021 Chardonnay is a stunning effort by winemaker Tony Rynders. Stored for 18 months in 25% new French oak, this utilizes Dijon clonal selection 76 and 95 Chardonnay from the Open Claim Vineyard. Richly colored and perfumed, this is silky and refined on the palate, with good underlying freshness and salty accents. Wet stone, white peach and juicy sweetened gooseberry flavors combine with damp earthy accents on the palate. Drinking marvelously now, enjoy over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2024-2036- 95

2021 Open Claim ‘Flora’s Veil’ Pinot Noir- Deeply colored and perfumed, the 2021 ‘Flora’s Veil’ Pinot Noir is sourced from the tenth year farming this great vineyard set in the Mount Pisgah AVA. Stored for 18 months in 42% new French oak, this reveals marvelous concentration on the palate with a silky mouthfeel. Boysenberry and black cherry fruit flavors mingle well with salty soils, and great length, weight and bright underlying finesse. A total stunner, this is great to savor in its heady youth and will live on for decades to come. Drink 2024-2040- 96

Fidelitas

One of the outstanding houses of Red Mountain and Washington State, Fidelitas was founded by legendary winemaker Charlie Hoppes. Hoppes has served as former head winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle. Prior to working at Chateau Ste. Michelle, he attended the world renowned Viticulture and Enology program at the University of California, Davis and in 1988 he graduated with a degree in Agricultural Science and Management with a special emphasis in Viticulture and Enology. After a brief stint in Walla Walla in 1990 at Waterbrook Winery, he began working with superstar winemaker Mike Januik as a member of the winemaking team at Ste. Michelle in Woodinville. Hoppes had the pleasure of making the first vintages of Col Solare, from 1995-1998. After some time, Hoppes wanted to start his own project. Hoppes finally decided to purchase some land on Red Mountain, founding Fidelitas in 2000 -- and has produced fantastic reds and whites since that time. Fidelitas is known for their red and white Bordeaux blends, as well as their rich Cabernets. 

The Fidelitas wines I tasted were even better than those made in 2020. The 2021 wines are amongst the finest that I have ever tasted from this house.  I adored the the 2021 Fidelitas ’Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 96) which is bold and rich, yet possesses a fantastic freshness and lovely herbal accents. This is going to be better and better with a little age. Learn more about the great Fidelitas lineup at http://www.fidelitaswines.com/ Here are the great new wine releases from Fidelitas.

2021 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Merlot- This is 100% varietal coming from the famed Ciel du Cheval Vineyard. 40% of this wine comes from original plantings (1976). Stored in 40% new French oak, this is soft, round and generous on the mouth, with its plush texture. Layers of rich dark currants combine with red cherry, chocolate, red licorice and shades of sagebrush on the palate. Drink 2024-2040- 94

2021 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine- inspired by the great wines of the Right Bank, this red wine comprised of 50% Merlot, with 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and small parts Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Stored in 58% new French oak this offers beautiful milk chocolate notes from the Merlto alongside green herbs, dark currants and suggestions of middle eastern spices. The palate is marvelously balanced,  as you can see each working piece with the herbal tones, alongside graphite, dark fruits, graphite and tobacco notes. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2021 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Cabernet Franc- The 2021 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Cabernet Franc is an awesome new single varietal wine. Very inky in the glass, this takes on layers of fresh sage, red bell pepper and rich dark fruits with tobacco leaf. This has velvety tannins with refined texture and a seamless drinking experience. Marvelous now, this will live on for at least another fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2041- 95

2021 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2021 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Cabernet Sauvignon  comes from some old vine plantings from this site. A gorgeous, generous effort from this warm vintage, this100% varietal Cabernet displays a refined mouthfeel with velvety tannins on the palate. Rich dark cherry and boysenberry fruit flavors combine with dark chocolate shavings, espresso grounds and pencil lead notes on the palate. Drink 2024-2041- 95

2021 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Petit Verdot- The deeply perfumed and concentrated 2021 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Petit Verdot shows marvelous blue fruits on the nose with dried herbs, and dark chocolate shavings. The palate is incredibly good with a lush mouthfeel, refined tannins and a gorgeous core of blue and black fruits. Chewy and rich, enjoy now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2024-2041- 95

2021 Fidelitas ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Malbec- The 2021 Fidelitas ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Malbec comes from this famous site that has a small amount of Malbec planted. This wine has been made since the 2013 vintage. Mocha, tar and black licorice all mark the nose alongside exotic spices. Seamless and soft on the mouth, with great elegance and bright acidity, this is already drinking marvelously. Drink 2024-2041- 95

2021 Fidelitas ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 Fidelitas ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning wine that is already nicely evolved now at the three year mark. Once on the nose this takes on layers of tobacco leaf and damp soils alongside scorched earth and dense dark fruits. The palate is soft and refined with a seamless texture and wonderful sense of elegance. Concentrated and dense, with bright underlying acidity, this is a stunning new bottling that has richness, poise and wonderful earthy tones. This is going to age gracefully. Drink 2024-2044- 96

2021 Fidelitas ‘Optu’ Red Wine- This is one of the first Fidelitas wines that I tasted back in 2007. This 2021 ‘Optu’ combines 66% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller portions Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Stored in 33% new French oak, this offers black licorice and black tea on the nose alongside anise. The palate is soft and refined with a ripe mouthfeel. The sense of balance is beautiful here. Drink 2024-2040- 94

2020 Fidelitas ‘Blackwood Canyon Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming from this old vineyard first planted back in 1984. Some new American oak was used (24%) as this offers black pepper and coffee grounds alongside creme de cassis. The palate is soft and refined with silky tannins that combine with rich dark fruits alongside black tea and espresso grounds on the palate. Rich and viscous, this is a stunning effort from a tough vintage. Drink 2024-2030- 95

Leonetti Cellar

I have fond memories of tasting with fellow Arsenal supporter Chris Figgins. Figgins loves food and wine and we always manage to get a soccer conversation in — or two. He is finishing his incredible caves project at the FIGGINS estate vineyard which is going to be a sight to be seen and is a lifelong dream for this talented winemaker.

Leonetti has always been a highly traditional winery, making several wines each year and not branching out to new projects. They now have an amazing single vineyard project is a great chance for Chris to enter another element as a winemaker and the end results are extraordinary. He is also making Aglianico now for several years which is one of the unique wines made in our state. This is a tannic, rustic bottling that is a must-try for any lover of Washington wines or Italian wines.

A few days ago I had the chance to open the new lineup of Leonetti wines and I tasted each wine over several days to check on their evolution. A total stunner and unique bottling made in Washington, I love the new 2018 Leonetti Cellar Aglianico (OB, 96) which is amongst the finest wines of its kind that you will taste in North America. In a similar vein, you would be hard-pressed to try a finer Sangiovese bottling than the incredible 2021 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese (OB, 95) which is already beautifully evolved and is a masterful effort. Arguably the finest wine ever made at Leonetti Cellar, the 2021 Leonetti Cellar ‘Reserve’ Red Wine (OB, 99) flirts with perfection in a bottle. A wine with massive cellaring potential this beauty really needs a few more years of bottle age. Learn more about these stunning new wines at http://leonetticellar.com/ Here are my reviews of the beautiful new Leonetti Cellar wines. 

2021 Leonetti Sangiovese- A masterful effort in this slightly cooler vintage, the 2021 Leonetti Sangiovese isa 100% varietal wine that was stored for 22 months in new and once-filled French oak barrels and neutral oval Botti prior to bottling. Sourced from the Holy Roller, Loess, Seven Hills and Mill Creek Upland Vineyards, this opens with a dazzling bouquet of rose petals, old leather and wet rock alongside red currants and shades of menthol. The palate is silky smooth and refined with a seamless texture and weightless profile. Showing good richness from this warm vintage, the 2021 Leonetti Sangiovese is really inviting to consume even now in its bright youth. Give this an hour in the decanter before enjoying. Drink 2024-2039- 95

2022 Leonetti Merlot- The 2022 Leoentti Merlot is a brilliant, cool vintage wine that really needs an hour of air upon opening. Also 100% varietal in this vintage, the Merlot was sourced from the Loess, Mill Creek Upland and Leonetti Old Block Vineyards. Chocolate covered dark cherry and cigar box notes mark the nose alongside Arabica bean and shades of Chinese black tea. The palate is smooth and silky, with excellent concentration. With each sip the pillowy texture caresses you, as this is brimming with rich red licorice, boysenberry, roasted dates, black tea and exotic spice flavors. The sense of balance is exquisite as this fantastic new bottling will show well over the next two decades. An hour of air is going to do this wine wonders. Drink 2024-2044- 95

2021 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon- Delicious, decadent and a world-class effort, the 2021 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon is amongst the finest bottlings of its kind that I can recall over the past twenty years — for my palate rivaling only the 2018. Ironically this 2021, along with the 2018 are both 81% Cabernet Sauvignon. Anise, black currant jelly, wet stone and shades of huckleberry all mark the nose. The palate is refined and seamless throughout the drinking experience. While obviously black fruit-driven, right now the light green herbal tones from the larger portion of the Petit Verdot are beautifully melding together with the core of rich blackberry and black cherry alongside dark chocolate shavings and graphite. Showing a fantastic combination of weight, length and underlying finesse, this beauty will live on for another two plus decades. Just don’t open for at least another year as this stunner showed best on day 2 and 3. Tasted twice with consistent notes. Drink 2025-2050- 97

2021 Leonetti ‘Reserve’ Red Wine- A massive, blockbuster release that delivers an Oscar-worthy performance, the 2021 Leonetti ‘Reserve’ is amongst the finest wines that I have ever tasted from this estate — every bit up there with the scintillating 2018 bottling. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon with 14% Malbec, 7% Petit Verdot and 4% Merlot this exudes class on the nose with black currant cordial, scorched earth, sweet pipe tobacco, fresh sage and suggestions of Black Forest cake. The highly complex and heady aromatics are a joy to take in. The palate is rich and viscous with serious power and fantastic verve. A total heavyhitter, the 2021 ‘Reserve’ is nowhere near ready and will really benefit from another three plus years of bottle age. Please be patient with this incredible wine. Drink 2027-2055- 99

2018 Leonetti Aglianico- This is now the second time that I have tasted this truly novel 2018 Aglianico bottling. There isn’t a wine that is quite like this in North America. 100% varietal, this saw extended age for 44 months in terracotta amphorae, and new and neutral French oak barrels prior to bottling. Coming from the Serra Pedace Vineyard, this offers damp earth, cranberry and red currant notes on the nose with tobacco leaf accents. The palate shows rustic tannins that line a ripe core of red and dark fruit flavors, alongside wintergreen, flint and shades of wild blackberry. Give this outstanding wine another year in the bottle. Drink 2025-2044- 96

Siduri

For years I have loved the inspired wines of Siduri. The original project was founded by Adam Lee and the winery was eventually sold to Jackson Family in 2015. For years Adam crafted incredible wines for his label. Adam spent several years as head winemaker following the sale and Siduri’s current winemaker, Matt Revelette, has now been at the helm for several years. Matt has a great background in wine, formerly working for Sojourn Cellars, Williams Selyem, Kosta Browne, Quintessa, and Mending Wall.

Originally from Kentucky, Matt fell in love with wine from the ground up, explaining “between college semesters I fell in love from the ground up, driving posts and planting vines, training young vines. And the wine tasting, that part came later.” He graduated from college in 2008 and later took an internship at Williams-Selym “And found my home there.” He currently resides in Healdsburg “Which is a nice place to walk to work. Russian River Valley is home, there is no place quite like it.” “Relationships with the farmers have been going on for a long time and that is how we succeed” he said.

I was very impressed with his range of wines from the 2021 vintage. This was a warm vintage that had limited heat spikes and a generally consistent growing season. Check out his 2021 Siduri ‘Seascape’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) which is a marvelous effort from this salty site. Even better is the dazzling 2021 Siduri ‘Garys’ Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 96) which is heady and rich with fantastic underlying tension and gravel notes. Learn more about these great wines at siduri.com and here are my reviews of the new Siduri wines.

2021 Siduri ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir- Very juicy, the 2021 Siduri ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir comes from three sites in the Russian River Valley. Tart cranberry and shades of cola with damp soils all combine on the palate. Nicely textured, with salty undertones, this is already drinking beautifully now. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2021 Siduri ‘Seascape Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Seascape Vineyard’ is near Cobb’s Coastlands property and was first planted back in the early 1990s. Grapes from this site are very late ripening in this damp environment. Clone 777 is mainly planted there as well as Wadenswil 1a. Stored in roughly 30% new French oak this shows beautiful red florals alongside salty damp rock alongside bright red fruits. The palate is deep and concentrated with serious texture and wonderful salty undertones. Bright in terms of pure red fruits, this is drinking marvelously even now. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2021 Siduri ‘Dutton-Perry Ranch’ Pinot Noir- Formerly known as Keefer Ranch Vineyard, the Dutton-Perry Ranch is farmed by the Dutton family. This site is set on Goldridge sandy loam soils. Mostly Dijon clone 114 and given roughly 15% whole cluster fermentation, the 2021 Pinot Noir opens with freshly tilled soils alongside boysenberry fruit aromatics with hints of cardamom. The palate is soft and refined with a silky texture. Cran-cola and orange rind flavors combine with beautiful richness and black rose petal water on the palate. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2021 Siduri ‘Parsons Vineyard’ Pinot Noir-The Parsons Vineyard is farmed by Tom and Kelly Parsons. Siduri has been sourcing from this site since 2007 and the wine has been a vineyard designate since 2009. Made from clones 777, Pommard and 115, this 2021 Pinot Noir offers good richness with damp loamy soils alongside wild blackberry, and sage accents. This is dense and delicious Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Only 250 cases made. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2021 Siduri ‘Barbieri Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 Siduri ‘Barbieri Vineyard’ Pinot Noir comes from a 20 acre site on Olivet Road. Damp earth and bright red fruits mark the nose alongside garrigue and shades of milk chocolate. The palate is soft and inviting with great tension and a great core of red and dark fruits. Bright and rich, this is drinking beautifully right now. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2021 Siduri ‘Sealift Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Located in the Anapolis area, this vineyard is an 180 acre site that has older vines that ripen slowly. Stored in 40% new French oak the 2021 Pinot Noir offers crushed seashells on the nose alongside dense dark fruits and hints of black truffle shavings. This is a big, burly wine that has beautiful body and underlying verve. Finishing long with refined tannins, this dense and chewy Pinot Noir is drinking marvelously right now. Drink 2024-2040- 96

2021 Siduri ‘Van der Kamp Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 Siduri ‘Van der Kamp Vineyard’ Pinot Noir comes from a site that was planted roughly in 1960. These are some of the oldest vines in Sonoma County. This wine comes from newer plantings, as the 25 acre site is set on volcanic loamy soils. This was given less new French oak than other Siduri cru wines (10%). Lovely volcanic soil profile greets you on the palate with an ebullient core of pomegranate seed, red raspberry and cranberry flavors alongside salty and stony accents. Soft and juicy, with a bright core of underlying freshness, enjoy now and over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2039- 95

2021 Siduri ‘Rosella’s Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 Siduri ‘Rosella’s Vineyard’ Pinot Noir comes from a slightly cooler site which has a strong fog influence. Peak daytime temperatures are usually around 1PM. Nothing was picked at this site until October. Gorgeous red florals mark the nose alongside tart red raspberry and kumquat rind accents, with loamy soil tones. The palate is plush with a bright underlying acidity and great sense of texture. Drink 2024-2040- 94

2021 Siduri ‘Garys’ Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This 2021 ‘Gary’s Vineyard’ is sourced from Pisoni clonal selection Pinot Noir vines. The Pinot Noir comes from a rocky site that is roughly one mile from the Rosella’s Vineyard. The dark fruit profile is very evident in this wine. Wild blackberry and black cherry tones mark the nose alongside wet gravel accents. The palate is smooth and soft with a voluptuous  texture. Drink 2024-2040- 96

Seven Hills

I fondly recall visiting one of Walla Walla’s iconic wineries more than 20 years ago. What began all the way back in 1988, Seven Hills Walla Walla mainstay that makes consistently great Rose and well-balanced red wines. I’ve visited this winery many times and have always been impressed with the consistency of their lineup. They’ve had a sterling reputation for Rose wines over the years and I have also bee nreally impressed with their Sauvignon Blanc wines — one that also exudes value

This weekend I had the chance to meet up with winemaker Bobby Richards . A great dude to chat wine with, Bobby is a Pacific Northwest native, originally from Albany, Oregon. It was back in 2009 when he worked a harvest at Benton Lane that he fell in love with both his current wife and the wine industry. Richards worked a harvest at Tranche Cellars before joining Seven Hills as a harvest intern in 2013 and after working his way up — today serving as Winemaker.

I love the new 2023 Seven Hills ‘Columbia Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 92) which is neatly textured and shows wonderful weight. Even better is the sensational 2021 Seven Hills ‘Pentad’ Red Wine (OB, 94) which is nicely structured and shows outstanding weight. Learn more about this historic winery at https://www.sevenhillswinery.com and here are my reviews of the new wines by Seven Hills.

2023 Seven Hills ‘Columbia Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2023 Seven Hills ‘Columbia Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc has a touch of Muscat Canelli blended in. This has just a kiss of sweetness with kiwi and sweet cantaloupe and papaya flavors. This is a killer value. Drink 2024-1030- 92

2021 Seven Hills ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Merlot- The 2021 Seven Hills ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Merlot offers roasted figs and black currants on the nose with chocolate notes. The palate is soft and refined with silky tannins and a fleshy body. Drink 2024-2034- 93

2022 Seven Hills ‘ Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon comes from a range of sifted throughout the Walla Walla Valley. The palate is soft and refined with good structure and length. Rich black fruits mingle well with espresso ground flavors on the palate. Drink 2024-2036- 92

2021 Seven Hills ‘Pentad’ Red Wine- Made from all five grape varietals the 2021 Seven Hills ‘Pentad’ Red Wine is inky in the glass. Green herbs, black currants, anise and blackberry pie notes all combine on the nose. The palate is deep and rich with beautiful structure, weight and length. dense and chewy with refined tannins, this is already drinking beautifully now. Drink 2024-2040- 94

Review: Hotel 1000, Seattle's Boutique 5 Star Hotel

A world-class hotel in downtown Seattle, Hotel 1000 is one of Seattle’s best kept secrets for a great stay. We had a beautiful, thoughtful check-in experience and were greeted with a smile as we were told our junior suite would be on the 6th floor. Room 614 was expansive and beautiful.

My room was large and functional as much as it was beautiful. Carpet was thick and while the room had not recently been remodeled, it was very modern. The room was divided into two main rooms with a large king sized bed and a living room area. I was shocked that it had been more than ten years since the rooms had been remodeled because they were so urbane and well-kept.

This was a very large bedroom area in the room, next to the bathroom.

The bathroom was also great looking with extremely fine products by Le Labo. These are bathroom products that I’d find at the Ritz-Carlton. It was time to unwind with a bath and some relax time. The smells coming from the bathroom products were extraordinarily beautiful.

I can’t remember a Seattle hotel with a fancier bathroom and I loved that it was the centerpiece of the room, with very high-end touches. Each part of the room embodied simple elegance.

I always enjoy a glass of bubbles so we complemented that with a charcuterie board that was absolutely delicious.

Yeah, the charcuterie plate was just that good.

We were excited to dine at the downstairs restaurant, All Water, and savor their oyster hour, which offers oyster specials each day from 3-5PM. We headed down to the bar and I brought some wines to review. Oysters were roughly two dollars each making this quite a find.

The Olympia oysters were sweet and succulent.

At a new restaurant I am included to order a range of foods off the menu. Some might be stars and some not. The meal had many highlights as we tasted through the new releases from Seven Hills Winery. The crab cakes had a ton of crab cooked in with delicious aioli. I love the succulent prawns as well. But the best thing I tasted was hands down their short-rib which was fall off the bone delicious on their entree list. What a find!

We had to save room for a 20 year tawny port and flourless chocolate cake that was not too sweet and was a perfect foil for top port.

Beautiful range of foods at All Water, Hotel 1000’s restaurant.

We were feeling very full and satisfied leaving the restaurant and we headed upstairs to get ready for some rest. I can say that I enjoyed a fantastic sleep on this incredibly comfortable bed that was medium firmness. Pillows also nicely ranged from soft to firm which gives travelers options.

Here is the incredibly comfortable bed.

The next morning I felt highly refreshed as we headed down for some breakfast. I took in a few city views before checkout. This stay had been a really nice recharge from an extremely busy work week — just what I needed. Breakfast was really good and the service outstanding.

As a theme Hotel 1000 service was top notch throughout my stay. I hate when you pay a premium for a hotel room and nobody answers the phone downstairs. I’ve stayed at Four Seasons and Ritz-Carlton where this is the case. Everything about my stay exceeded expectations. I’ve had the opportunity to overnight at Seattle hotels several times over but I think that Hotel 1000 in terms of rooms, amenities, service and overall experience offers one of the finest guest experience — up there with The Thompson. For a boutique hotel, everything in the room made sense. Food quality and service in the restaurant was extraordinarily good. They have a killer happy hour if you are fan of oysters like we are. I can’t recommend this hotel enough to anyone wanting to visit Seattle and take in a full five-star guest experience. I can’t wait until my next stay!

Garden Creek

Today we share one of the outstanding older producers of Sonoma County. Founded by a couple with historic roots in Sonoma, Karin and Justin Warnelius-Miller launched Garden Creek in 2001, deepening their legacy on the Alexander Valley property and crafting and bottling wine at their family estate, which was first planted in 1969 by Justin’s father, James Miller.

Justin’s father, James Miller, purchased the land that is now “Garden Creek” in 1963. He planted the first Vitis Vinifera on the 100-acre property in 1969, being one of the first in the region to put his roots in winegrowing. In 1995, at the age of 19, Justin took the reins from his father to manage the ranch and farm the land. Karin and Justin Warnelius-Miller launched Garden Creek Ranch Vineyards Winery, in the original barn, to begin crafting and bottling wine at their family estate.

The new wines were outstanding, particularly their 2016 Garden Creek ‘Tesserae’ Red Wine (OB, 93) which is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with other Bordeaux varietals blended in. This is beautifully evolved stuff right now. Learn more at https://www.gardencreekvineyards.com/ and here are my reviews of the new Garden Creek wines.

2016 Garden Creek ‘Tesserae’ Red Wine-  This is a very late release of this 2016 Bordeaux-style wine that is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (83%) with the remainder Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. It is marvelous right now in terms of balance. Ripe dark currants and black raspberry flavors mingle well with green herbs, coffee grounds and dark chocolate shavings. Drink 2024-2034- 93

2019 Garden Creek Chardonnay- Sourced from their Alexander Valley estate, the 2019 Garden Creek Chardonnay shows good poise with copious minerals alongside lime zest and crushed wet rock alongside baking spices, and buttered French bread on the palate. Drink 2024-2029- 91

MacRostie Vineyards

Today we share one of the outstanding range of wines of MacRostie Vineyards. As far as wines that you will find at supermarkets go, these exude value year after year. I’ve had several memorable visiting experiences to MacRostie, which was founded by fellow Whitman alum Steve MacRostie. For many years I have loved these wines, particularly the value that their entry level wines bring. Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen has a great history in the wine industry. After attaining her undergraduate degree from the University of Colorado at Boulder she worked in the laboratory of Jackson Family Wines before working at Clos du Bois, Oyster Bay as well as Sonoma-Cutrer. The new wines are all outstanding coming from the 2020 and 2019 vintages.

MacRostie sources from some great vineyards including Dutton Ranch, Sangiacomo, Martinelli and Bacigalupi, and from MacRostie’s Estate Wildcat Mountain Vineyard which was purchased decades back. They have crafted another stunning value, their 2022 Macrostie ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which at 28 bucks retail totally overdelivers for Sonoma Chardonnay.  I also loved the new 2020 MacRostie ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 92) which is lithe and rich with a soft mousse. Learn more about this great Sonoma winery at https://macrostiewinery.com/ Here are the outstanding wines by MacRostie.

2020 MacRostie Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine- This 2020 Sparkling Wine comes from the Kiser Ranch in the Sangiacomo Vineyard. Sourced from the Sangiacomo Family Kiser Ranch this offers a smooth mousse upon the approach. Brioche and toasted hazelnut tones combine with shades of lemon rind and white grapefruit flavors all combine on the palate. This is really fantastic stuff that shows good poise and richness from this difficult vintage. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2022 MacRostie ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay- This 2022 Sonoma Coast bottling comes for the Sangiacomo and Ricci Vineyards in Carneros — and 25 different sites in total. Stored in only 15% new French oak, this is rich and viscous wine that offers a beautiful range of tropical, citrus and melon fruit flavors alongside creme brûlée accents on the palate. Really good, savor this outstanding value now and over the next eight years to come. Over 14 thousand cases produced of this beautiful wine. Drink 2024-2032- 92

2022 MacRostie ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir- Another really good value under 40 bucks, the 2022 MacRostie ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir comes from the Russian River Valley, Petaluma gap and Carneros regions. Cherry cola and pomegranate seed flavors mingle well with salty soils on the palate. Delicious, forward and juicy, enjoy now and over the next eight years to come. Drink 2024-2032- 91

Valdemar Estates

For years the Walla Walla Valley held its breath as one of the giants from Rioja invested in a piece of land near Pepper Bridge. This was going to be the place for what is now without a doubt one of the Pacific Northwest’s most beautiful wineries to visit. I was unquestionably sentimental to this famed Rioja house as the Valdemar wines from the early 2000s that helped awaken me to the incredible range of wines in La Rioja. And the Valdemar Rioja wines continue to overdeliver for the price!

Valdemar is the first non-American owned winery in Washington. With sweeping views across the Walla Walla Valley and gorgeous, modern touches, this is a must visit for wine lovers near and far. CEO Jesús Martínez Bujanda Mora represents the fifth generation of his family’s 130-year-old wine business. A few years back Walla Walla Community College School of Enology and Viticulture graduate Devyani Gupta was named winemaker and viticulturist. Gupta is originally from Portland and is a fellow graduate of Whitman College. During her tenure at Whitman, she worked for Amavi Cellars and in 2016 she completed the enology and viticulture program at Walla Walla Community College. She later worked for FIGGINS and Toil before being hired at Valdemar.

I think she nailed her white wines. The 2022 Valdemar Estates ‘Enter Nosotros’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) is deep and concentrated with a smooth texture and loads of rich citrus and melon fruits. Even better is the 2021 Valdemar Estates ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 93). This is rich and concentrated wine that has great structure and aging potential.   Learn more about this special winery project at https://www.valdemarestates.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Valdemar Estates

2022 Valdemar Estates ‘Columbia Valley’ Roussanne- The 2022 ‘Columbia Valley’ comes from the acclaimed Olsen and Gamache Vineyards. Right away the Roussanne offers lovely melon and nutty tones on the nose alongside stony accents. The palate is bright and seamless with plenty of mouth-watering acidity. The combination of finesse ands weight really move this melon and citrus fruit-driven wine that is already drinking beautifully now. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2022 Valdemar Estates ‘Entre Nosotros’ Chardonnay- The really good 2022 Valdemar Estates ‘Entre Nosotros’ Chardonnay is smooth and sleek on the mouth. Layers of citrus fruits combine with wet stone and shades of green papaya on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, enjoy this outstanding wine now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2021 Valdemar Estates ‘Entre Nosotros’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The warm vintage 2021 Valdemar Estates ‘Entre Nosotros’ Cabernet Sauvignon offers a smooth mouthfeel. It is a touch lean and linear considering the warmth of the vintage. Well-structured, with medium-bodied boysenberry and black cherry fruit flavors with coffee ground notes, enjoy now and over the next seven plus years. Drink 2023-2030- 90

2021 Valdemar Estates ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon is inky in the glass, showing more depth and richness than the ‘Entre Nosotros’ bottling. Layers of tar and graphite collide with salty soils, black currants and espresso grounds on the palate. This is really good right now and will continue to evolve well for another ten plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2020 Valdemar Estates ‘Klipsun Vineyard’ Syrah- This 2020 Syrah offers black currant and creosote notes alongside bitter chocolate on the palate. Nicely poised, enjoy over the next few years. Drink 2023-2028- 90

2021 Valdemar Estates ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah- This warm vintage Syrah offers medium-bodied iodine and black olive flavors alongside loganberry fruits and shades of smoked brisket.  Neatly made with a soft texture, enjoy now and over the next seven years to come. Drink 2023-2030-92

Leonetti Cellar Aglianico Vertical Tasting

“These 100% varietal wines really need time” explained Chris Figgins as we tasted his range of Aglianico wines. “And there is good reason why Taurasi Agliancio wines are aged so long” he said. I too highly admire the Aglianico wines of the Taurasi region. These wines can initially be tannic monsters with brooding black fruits, rich herbs and chocolate flavored profiles. For years Figgins dreamed of adding to his portfolio, already having beautiful Sangiovese wines that are the finest in Washington State. Over time Figgins saw the potential to make great Aglianico wines in high elevation vineyards. In fact, it was all the way back in 2006 that he had a conversation with Winebow Italian wine manager and he was blown away with Aglianico wines that he was tasting. Finally in 2010 he took the plunge and planted Aglianico with his first full vintage being from 2013 — which at the time was one of the warmest ever in the Walla Walla Valley.

He saw his Serra Pedace Vineyard as the perfect site for such a varietal — a place which possesses thin soil types with fractured basalt. “This seemed like a natural fit and also Aglianico is late ripening so that was the best site for us because we wanted to make sure that it was ripe” he said. With the warm vintages coming on, he felt that the vines were well suited for this late ripening varietal.

In 2019 there was cooler temperatures which “Was fine because we made it through the frost.” Figggins sees this wine having “great rusticity. Our Sangio doesn’t have that Italian rusticity but I was delighted to see that Aglianico maintains that old world feel. It is pretty consistent that way.” The Leonetti Agliancio is a passion project which is partly aged (33%) in amphorae which Figgins feels not only brings a different texture but different range of flavors to the wine. “We get more pretty florals from the amphorae” Figgins explains.

We spent more than an hour tasting through vintages 2013-2018 of Aglianico. Considering the youth of the vines, we were both blown away with the quality in the first vintage — his 2013. The 2013 Leonetti Aglianico (OB, 95) is a masterclass wine that has softened considerable since release. Right now this has such a beautiful core of black fruits with so many non-fruit nuances. Even better and more brooding is the 2014 Leonetti Aglianico (OB, 96) which is rich and viscous from this warm vintage. The structure and weight of the wine suggests this will go for another fifteen years — or potentially more! Finally, I have no doubt that the best wine I tasted was the 2018 Leonetti Aglianico (OB, 96-98). This is the finest, richest, most beautifully-structured wine out of the tasting. Right now this is a tannic, hedonistic monster of a wine but I can’t wait to see where this beauty goes. Learn more about these incredible wines at leonetticellar.com and here are my reviews of an unforgettable vertical tasting of Leonetti Aglianico.

2013 Leonetti Aglianico- The 2013 Aglianico was stored for 44 months in French oak barrels and neutral oak barrels as well as terra-cotta amphorae. The palate is softy and refined with soft tannins that combine with a massive core of roasted figs, coffee grounds, dusty earth and blackberry cobbler with cremini mushroom shavings. This is really drinking well now as this beauty will go for many years to come. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2014 Leonetti Aglianico- A masterclass coming from this great vintage in Walla Walla the 2014 Aglianico is really deep and penetrating on the nose with a generous core of black and blue fruits. This is seamless on the mid-palate with a smooth texture. This has a fantastic flavor density with roasted figs, mocha, tar and also a truffle edge. Savory and salty, this is absolutely delicious wine to consume now and over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2023-2037- 96

2015 Leonetti Aglianico- Coming from this record warm vintage, the 2015 Aglianico is one marvelous showing from a tough vintage for red wines. Ripe bing cherry, cuban cigar, red rose water, orange rind and shades of salty soils all combine on the palate. Surely living on for another eight plus years, this is really in its sweet spot right now. Drink 2023-2031- 94

2016 Leonetti Aglianico- The 2016 Leonetti Aglianico is a stunning showing that is full-throttle and delicious now. This is jam-packed full of delicious flavors. Tar, huckleberry compote, black licorice and worn leather alongside espresso grounds and refined tannins all combine on the palate. Rich, viscous and deftly structured, this is already drinking beautifully and has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2038- 96

2017 Leonetti Aglianico- The 2017 Aglianico is a stunning showing from this vintage. On the nose this offers creosote and garrigue notes alongside chocolate and coffee ground notes. Vibrant and fresh with loads of mouth-watering acidity, this is drinking really well now and will live on for another fifteen plus years. Give this an hour or two of air if consuming now. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2018 Leonetti Aglianico (96-98)

Beaulieu Vineyard

Back more than twenty years ago I tried my first BV wine. It was a Georges de Latour that I will never forget from the epic 1996 vintage. Everyone in wine will remember their first Georges de Latour. A famed and historic Napa estate, Beaulieu Vineyard began in 1900, when Georges de Latour's wife, Fernande, first laid eyes on the land that would become their original Rutherford vineyard — and she named it "beau lieu," or "beautiful place." De Latour saw the potential of the land and sold his thriving cream of tartar business, purchasing the four-acre ranch and later founding Beaulieu Vineyard.  I have long enjoyed visiting the BV Reserve Room — one of the great locations to try some of the best wines in Napa. I’ve admired these wines back to the early and mid-1990s as I’ve found them to age remarkably well. Particularly the 1995 and 1996 ‘Georges de Latour’ are iconic, age worthy Napa wines.  At the helm is Trevor Durling, who took over a few years back for legendary winemaker Jeffrey Stambor. Originally from Sonoma County, Trevor has a degree in viticulture and enology from the esteemed University of California, Davis.

I love the 2019 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Rutherford Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 94) which is dense and chewy with serious texture.  I love the price point here. We love the gorgeous 2020 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Georges de Latour’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) which has massive cellaring potential and will reward for many decades to come. Elegant and rich, this is nothing short of a sensational new release. Learn more about these beautiful new wines at https://www.bvwines.com Here are the new releases by BV.

2020 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon offers straightforward dark currant, kirsch and blackberry flavors alongside coffee grounds and bright acidity on the palate. Medium-bodied, enjoy now. Drink 2024-2029- 90

2019 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Rutherford Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2019 ‘Rutherford Reserve’ by Beaulieu Vineyard is a outstanding blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and 5% Malbec that was stored for 21 months in all new French oak before bottling. Alluring aromatics greet you with fresh sage, dark rose petals and potpourri alongside shades of Turkish coffee grounds. The palate reveals a smooth texture, with serious weight and great underlying verve. Bright with mouth-watering acidity, this is concentrated, broad-shouldered Cabernet that will cellar well for another fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2024-2040- 94

2020 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Georges de Latour’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 ‘George de Latour’ is an outstanding wine made in a really tough vintage by BV winemaker Trevor Durling. Right away this offers enticing aromatics of cigar ash, black currants, espresso grounds and shades of blackberry compote. The palate has great structure and finesse. Medium to full-bodied, this entices with a deep core of black fruits that collide with violets, graphite, and loamy soils. Coming off very clean, it will be really interesting to see how this beauty evolves. For my palate, no reason to cellar this right now as it is really hitting its stride especially after 30 minutes of air. Savor now and over the next ten years. Drink 2024-2034- 95

Interview with Fiona Mak, Founder and Winemaker of Smak Wines

One of the truly unique wineries of the Pacific Northwest, Smak Wines focuses on a range of Rose wines based on the time of year. Founder and winemaker Fiona Mak is a graduate of Syracuse University’s hospitality management program. Originally from Hong Kong, Mak had a formidable career in the restaurant industry, making a host of great spots like Morimoto in Philadelphia, Haru Sushi in New York, and Quality Meats, in Manhattan. Mak is also a certified sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers. In 2013 she traveled across country to begin her wine education at the Walla Walla Community College Enology and Viticulture program. Fiona is so incredibly talented and it has been such a pleasure getting to know her over the years. I think you will really enjoy hearing her story in wine. Here is my exclusive interview with Fiona Mak, founder and winemaker at Smak Wines.

OB: How did you decide to become a winemaker? 

FM: I was a restaurant manager and sommelier in New York City for a steakhouse before fully entering into the wine industry. Being in the NYC restaurant scene has taught me a lot about the world of wine. I was lucky enough to have the support of my company to study for Sommelier certification exams, and the exposure of fine wines definitely accelerated and solidified my path towards wine. At one point I felt a little stuck, as I was a double minority (Asian, Woman) working in a white male dominated field. My friend Maryam Ahmed told me she was coming to Walla Walla and enrolled in the local Community College Enology & Viticulture program, I decided to go together with her as it would be a great way to round out my wine education by fully immersing myself in wine production. I came to Walla Walla 10 years ago and have never looked back. 

OB: What are some of the challenges Asian-Americans face culturally with not only being in the wine industry but becoming a winemaker and having their own wine business?

FM: I was fortunate that my father loved wine when I was growing up and loved to share his knowledge and thoughts about them since I was very young. Wine was pretty much an intrinsic part of my lifestyle but it wasn't true for everyone. Most of my friends back in Hong Kong actually don't drink, and their parents didn't have a habit of drinking either.  Wine in general isn't an innate part of a typical Asian lifestyle as a lot of Asian countries produce their own alcoholic beverages - Baiju (Chinese white wine), Japanese Sake, Korean Soju etc. Beer is also very common in the culture as it is more affordable and relates to a lot of social events and goes well with Asian cuisines. Growing up in Hong Kong I was raised in a unique position where there are a lot of expats, and a blend of many East and West cultures. People were slowly introduced to wine, from appreciation to the collective value of cellaring fine wine. I think it's rather hard to imagine yourself as a winemaker when you grow up in Asia, as it's such a foreign concept. However for Asian-Americans born and raised here in the United States, it may not be that far out of reach, but still uncommon. You will have to have some kind of wine background or interest first. My parents, like a lot of Asian parents, had hoped that I would either follow their footsteps and work in finance, or hold a "stable" job like a doctor or a lawyer. In the beginning they really didn't like me stepping outside of the "cookie mold" of college degree > climbing the corporate ladder > married with kids. The challenge is to receive support for stepping outside the stereotype and starting your own business, in a field they may not understand but I guess that's true to any young business owner in any field. The challenge that I have faced was not for my race but for my gender. I think there are many challenges women still face in the wine industry, as women are constantly undermined, belittled and overlooked. The journey to starting a winery was long and hard and you'll have to do a lot of the work yourself but whenever I was stuck I had a lot of mentors to turn to - JF Pellet (Pepperbridge), John Abbott (Devona) , Ali Mayfield (Milbrandt) and JJ Menozzi (Aluvé) are just some of the great support I have received when I was starting the paperwork for the winery. I am blessed to be among such supportive comrades who are not afraid of sharing what and who they know to make sure you're successful. 

OB: Talk about the spirit of Smak Wines, wines that I have now enjoyed for many years.  What is the motivation behind your brand?

FM: The motivation of SMAK was born in France where I spent a lot of time with my family. I saw first hand the French mentality of associating sunshine with Rosé. It didn’t matter whether it was hot or cold, at the beach or in the snow. I think the US marketing on Rosé, reducing an entire category of wine to one season is to limit creativity and consumer choices. It's like the restaurant industry telling people to only eat beef in Spring. It's absurd. 

We are a Rosé exclusive winery from the beginning, for several reasons:

• Walla Walla summers are hot with many 100F+ days, which make people crave something light, refreshing and cold to drink.

• Rosé are extremely versatile, they can be made from any red skinned grape, which WA state grows a variety of in very high quality

• Coming from a food and wine background, Rosé are great food wines as they often have high natural acidity 

• I wanted to bring the French Rosé mentality into our lifestyle, and make wine drinking a lifestyle.

• I also wanted to bring the fun factor of wine back, to remind people to not over complicate the enjoyment of wine.

With all of these reasons in mind, coupled with our Seasonal lifestyle in Walla Walla, I have created seasonal Rosé named after the seasons where the wines themselves emulate the season. I am further developing a new Abstract series, an experimental series of Rosé, so that I can keep exploring and produce more Rosé from the various varieties of grapes we grow in the WA state. 

OB: There are so few Asian-American women winemakers not only in the Pacific Northwest but the world of wine. What can we do to help this issue evolve and improve?

FM: I think we have to address the discrepancy for women holding executive positions in our industry in regard to race. Our state has the majority of small boutique wineries that are often owned by one person, a husband and wife team or family. Mid to large size wineries in our state often have no internal structure to promote within. To suggest some solutions to this problem first we need to demand equal pay for men and women in our industry. We need to question - are we supporting the diversity in wine, and the people who are doing something different? Are we doing our best to boost those around us, highlighting other women or minority owned businesses in or relating to our industry?  Are we fostering the successes and career development of women? Are we advocating for groups like Diversity in Wine Leadership Forum and the Alliance of Women in Washington Wine (many people think this group is just for women but what they need are support and advocates from all genders)? We need stronger industry-wide DEI programs from our State Wine Commission, regional wine alliances and corporations. At the regional and local level we need better workforce training programs for existing employees such as wine appreciation, AVA history, WSET certifications.  I strongly believe in investing in one’s employee through personal enrichment and fair compensation. Lastly, can we change our perspective to make wine more approachable through our language - can we translate our tasting notes? Can we write different tasting notes for the same wine for different cultures? Can we give our consumers the confidence to buy wine over other alcoholic beverages through effective marketing, appropriate pricing, and consumer education?

Alpha Omega

One of the beautiful Napa estates, Alpha Omega crafts a range of fantastic wines from sites throughout the Napa Valley. Founded back in in 2006, Alpha Omega is a gorgeous, family-owned property that relies on the talented hands of winemaker Matt Brain, who has a master's degree in biosciences and a background in process engineering. He also earned a winemaking degree from UC Davis and held winemaker titles at prominent California wineries and winemaker/lecturer positions with Enology and Viticulture programs at both Cal Poly and Fresno State universities.

I love the 2020 Alpha Omega Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is rich and viscous, coming off very clean from this tough vintage. Without a doubt the best wine that I tasted was the incredible 2019 Alpha Omega ‘ERA’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 99) which is one of the great Cabernet wines from Napa that I have tasted in the past year. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.aowinery.com Here are my reviews of the gorgeous new wines by Alpha Omega.

2020 Alpha Omega ‘1155’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 1155’ Sauvignon Blanc’ has 2% Semillon blended in. This is a gorgeous effort that shows pink grapefruit blossom and orange rind on the nose alongside Japanese pear. The palate is fresh and refined with a smooth texture and good weight. Stored in oak barrels (acacia wood), as well as some new French oak barrels. Drink 2024-2030- 92

2020 Alpha Omega Chardonnay- The outstanding 2020 Alpha Omega Chardonnay was stored in 35% new French oak before bottling. The wine mostly comes from Carneros as well as Mt. Veeder. This comes off rich and beautifully textured from this challenging vintage. Ripe pear and butterscotch notes combine with shades of melon and baking spices on the palate. Seamless and soft, this is a gorgeous effort in 2020. Drink 2024-2030- 93

2021 Alpha Omega ‘Reserve’ Rose- Bright and nicely textured, the 2021 Alpha Omega ‘Reserve’ Rose has all five Bordeaux varietals blended in. Stored in acacia wood, right away this offers bright cranberry and orange flavors alongside flinty accents and plenty of lip-smacking acidity on the palate. Round and rich, this is drinking beautifully now at the three year mark. Drink 2024-2029- 92

2021 Alpha Omega Cabernet Franc- This 2021 Cabernet Franc is a big and rich style of this varietal that is showing marvelously now. Blended with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, on the nose this takes on red bell pepper alongside espresso grounds, this is neatly textured with a smooth sense of mouthfeel throughout the drinking experience. Drink 2024-2036- 93

2018 Alpha Omega Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2018 Alpha Omega Cabernet Sauvignon comes from 14 regions in the Napa Valley. This version has a touch of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot blended in and was stored in 75% new French oak before bottling. Aromas of black currants and anis combine with tar and mocha. The palate is soft and refined with silky tannins that mingle well with a rich core of black fruit flavors. Drink 2024-2036- 93

2019 Alpha Omega ‘Era’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A stunning wine from a great vintage, the 2019 Alpha Omega ‘Era’ Cabernet Sauvignon has 5% Cabernet Franc and a touch of Petit Verdot and Malbec blended in. This is a barrel select wine that was stored in 70% new French oak before bottling. This has a high percentage of To Kalon fruit blended in. This has an insanely polished texture with serious verve and refined tannins. Black licorice and creme de violette, alongside stony and loamy soils alongside a wonderful sense of viscosity. Drink 2025-2050- 99

TOR

One of the giants of the Napa Valley, TOR was founded by former Beringer Vice President, Tor Kenward. Tor is famously one of the architects of Beringer’s famed ‘Private Reserve’ Cabernet and Chardonnay program which became some of the most famous wines of their kind.  Tor also has a new book out that is a truly outstanding read for any lover of Napa Valley wine. TOR is most famous for their inky, concentrated Cabernets but they also make some of the finest Chardonnay in the valley. Winemaker Jeff Ames crafts his Cabernet bottlings to be burly and bold, yet maintaining beautiful structure and flavor range. They are wines that are not to be missed by Napa Cabernet lovers.

TOR’s 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon wines are absolutely stunning across the board. The 2021 TOR ‘Vine Hill Ranch’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 99) is a wine that flirts with perfection, displaying a dizzying combination of weight, finesse and flavor range. This is a must-purchase for any serious collector of Napa Cabernet. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://torwines.com Here are the exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon releases by TOR.

2021 TOR ‘Vine Hill Ranch’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘Vine Hill Ranch’ by TOR comes from this famed spot in the Oakville AVA, as this site neighbors the wooded hills of the Mayacama Mountain Range. This bottling comes from blocks 4, 7, and 3 and was stored in 80% new French oak prior to bottling. Exotic spices mark the nose alongside creme de violette, mocha, tar and black licorice. The palate is seamless and beautifully concentrated, with its stony soil character, as every working piece moves in seamless unison. A total stunner from this enticing vintage, savor this beauty now and over the next twenty five years — or potentially more. Drink 2024-2049- 99

2021 TOR ‘Vaca Ridge Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The Vaca Ridge Vineyard’ is a new vineyard designated wine by TOR. This site is planted on stone ridges in the Vaca Mountains that overlook Napa Valley and Lake Hennessey. The wine shows beautiful poise and concentration from this warm vintage. Creme de cassis, loganberry compote, and espresso grounds with stony accents mark the palate alongside shades of dark chocolate shavings. This seriously good bottling will enjoy at least another twenty years of life ahead of it. Drink 2024-2044- 96

2021 TOR ‘Oakville’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The sensational ‘Oakville’ comes from some famed sites in the Oakville AVA including the Tench Vineyard. Very brooding in the glass, this displays incredible aromatics with black tea, exotic spices, blackberries, anise, red bell pepper and shades of freshly tilled loamy soils. The palate is concentrated and comes off very seamless with incredible elegance throughout the drinking experience. This is amongst the finest entry level Napa Cabernets that you will find in the valley as it will easily cellar for another fifteen years but will also reward early drinking. Drink 2023-2040- 95

Liberty Lake

Today we share one of the great boutique spots on Red Mountain. For many years now Liberty Lake has been producing some excellent wines from the Red Mountain AVA. The tasting room originally opened its doors in 2007 with the release of its 2005 vintage produced by original owners Doug and Shelly Smith. Mark and Sarah Lathrop took over the operation in January 2016 with the intent of focusing on full-bodied red wines.

The owners met back in 2005 at Eastern Washington University’s MBA program and they both found a love of wine together. The new wines were very good from the 2020 vintage. They come off clean and bright from this challenging year. The wines are also exceedingly well-priced and exude value. Check out the awesome new 2020 Tahija Sangiovese (OB, 91) which is an awesome wine made by Liberty Lake Cellars that has bright red fruits with a smooth mouthfeel. Even more impressive is the 2020 Liberty Lake Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 92) which is dense and chewy coming from the Scooteney Flats Vineyard.  Learn more about this exciting winery at http://www.libertylakewinecellars.com Here are the new wines by Liberty Lake.

2020 Tahija Sangiovese- Coming from the Candy Mountain Vineyard, this 2020 Sangiovese offers a soft mouthfeel with excellent texture. Layers of cranberry and orange peel combine with shades of white pepper and wet stone alongside sour cherry on the palate.This comes off clean, as this is best enjoyed over the next seven years to come. Drink 2024-2031- 91

2020 Liberty Lake Cabernet Franc- The 2020 Cabernet Franc has 15% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. This is a strong showing in a tough vintage. Stored in 57% new French oak, this offers good weight with boysenberry and tar flavors alongside black tea and exotic spices on the palate. Study and soft on the mouth, enjoy this delicious and generous wine now and over the next seven years to come. Drink 2024-2031- 92

2020 Liberty Lake Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 Liberty Lake Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from the Sooteney Flats Vineyard in the Red Mountain AVA. This limited production wine (182 cases) was stored in nearly all (87%) new French oak before bottling. This comes off round and generous on the mouth, showing tobacco leaf, scorched earth, milk chocolate and rich dark fruit flavors. This is really good stuff. Drink 2024-2031- 92

Benza

A newer spot in the Willamette Valley, Benza is a 25 year old hilltop estate in the Laurelwood District AVA of the Willamette Valley. They produce estate Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Rose of Pinot Noir and traditional method sparkling brut. Located 35 minutes from Portland, they are now making a wine from the Walla Walla Rocks District as well that is fantastic.

This is the first time that I tasted the lineup of Benza wines. Located in the new Laurelwood District, the estate vineyard is set on deep Laurelwood soils on top of volcanic Jory soil. I loved the new 2022 Benza ‘Rocks District of Milton-Freewater’ Syrah (OB, 93) which has beautiful umami notes alongside fantastic flavor range. Learn more at https://www.benza.com/ and here are my reviews of the new wines by Benza.

2019 Benza ‘Brut Cremant of Oregon’ Sparkling Wine- The brilliant 2019 Benza ‘Brut Cremant of Oregon’ Sparkling Wine is a delicious new wine made in this slightly cooler year. Granny Smith apple and pear with sour starfruit notes all combine with nutty accents on the palate. Tart and showing a good level of both astringency and richness, this would be a magical pairing for sushi. Only 80 cases made. Drink 2024-2031- 91

2022 Benza ‘Block 2 Reserve’ Pinot Gris- The 2022 ‘Block 2 Reserve’ is a rich and nicely textured new wine that is already showing beautifully. On the nose this shows salted Marcona almond and shades of citrus rind alongside starfruit and Bartlett pear. The palate is soft and inviting with a smooth texture. Enjoy this great new Gris now and over the next few years. Drink 2024-2029- 91

2022 Benza ‘Rocks District of Milton-Freewater’ Syrah- The really good 2022 Benza ‘Rocks District of Milton-Freewater’ Syrah shows a smooth texture with umami and smoldering stone flavors alongside wild blackberry and shades of green olive tapenade. Complex and delicious, enjoy now and over the next six years to come. Drink 2024-2030- 93

Mark Ryan

A pillar of consistency out of Woodinviille, Mark Ryan was founded by Mark Ryan McNeilly who has been a visionary in the Washington wine scene. I loved visiting their Woodinville outpost back when I was tasting wines more informally some fifteen years ago. The winery is just so much fun to visit, with their rock and roll theme — you would be hard pressed to not enjoy a glass of wine there. Mark has an incredible story, founding his namesake winery back in 1999. He was mostly self-taught as a winemaker and has been creating some consistently good wines since that time.

I love the new wines by them, as Mark Ryan crafts wines from some of the outstanding vineyards in the state. Don’t miss out on the 2022 Mark Ryan ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is a knockout combination of texture, weight and underlying finesse. Even better is the 2021 Mark Ryan ‘Dead Horse’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 94) which is already drinking beautifully now. Learn more about this outstanding Washington winery at markryanwinery.com Here are my reviews of the great new wines by Mark Ryan.

2022 Mark Ryan ‘Flowerhead’ Rose- Made from a combination of 60% Sangiovese 32% Syrah and 8% Grenache grapes, the 2022 Flowerhead shows off delicate Yakima cherry and red raspberry flavors that ming well with stony minerals and earthy undertone on the palate. Neatly textured, enjoy this great value now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2022 Mark Ryan ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This really good 2022 Chardonnay comes from the Olsen Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. It was stored in mainly concrete edges and new French oak before bottling. First made back in 2013, this new edition shows off bright lemon rind and brioche notes on the nose alongside shades of banana. The palate is soft and inviting with a silky texture and beautiful sense of length. Refined and glorious in its weight and length, this is drinking beautifully right now. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Megan Anne ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- This beautiful new wine comes from the Lazy River and Freedom Hill Vineyards. Stored in 30% new French oak for 18 months, this offers a smooth texture with medium bodied pomegranate, red currant and orange rind flavors that combine with salty soils on the palate. Smooth and soft, this is already drinking nicely now at the near three year mark. Drink 2023-2031- 91

2021 Mark Ryan ‘Wild Eyed’ Syrah- Coming from the Red Mountain AVA, the 2021 ‘Wild Eyed’ Syrah has 4% Grenache blended in. Inky in the glass, this revels its rich creosote and espresso ground flavors, alongside iodine, creme de violette and black currant flavors. Complex and really delicious, showing good underlying verve and a smooth texture, enjoy now and over the next eight to ten years. This is already drinking beautifully now. Drink 2023-2031- 94

2021 Mark Ryan ‘Monkey Wrench’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Monkey Wrench’ is a blend of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) with 30% Merlot and the remainder Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It shows juicy dark fruit flavors that mingle well with creosote, garrigue and shades of coffee grounds on the palate. Neatly textured and balanced, this is already nicely evolved stuff that is drinking beautifully right now. Drink 2023-2030- 91

2021 Mark Ryan ‘Little Sister’ Merlot- The outstanding 2021 ‘Little Sister’ was stored for 21 months in 60% new French oak and comes from the Red Willow and Quintessence Vineyards. On the nose this takes on layers of dark currants and sweet pipe tobacco alongside espresso grounds and scorched earth notes. The palate is soft and seamless with a great sense of verve and texture. Drinking nicely now, this will continue to evolve for at least another ten plus years to come. Drink 2023-2035- 93

2021 Mark Ryan ‘Long Haul’ Red Wine- The 2021 ‘Long Haul’ is a Merlot dominant wine (72%) with small portions Cabernet Franc (17%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) and a touch of Petit Verdot blended in. The twenty third edition of this wine, it was stored in a smaller portion of new wood (35%) this comes across marvelously juicy with pure red fruits. With more air shades of menthol, damp soils and Arabica bean flavors all meld nicely together in the core. Great to savor now, this will live on for another eight to ten years of peak enjoyment. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2021 Mark Ryan ‘The Dissident’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 Mark Ryan ‘The Dissident’ Cabernet Sauvignon also has 10% Merlot blended in with small parts Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Stored in 37% new French oak for 18 months this offers a refined mouthfeel and texture on the approach. Layers of toasty oak, bright Bing cherry and wild blackberry combine with espresso grounds and sagebrush accents on the palate. Ripe and bold with good depth and bright underlying acidity, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next ten to twelve years. Drink 2023-2035- 93

2021 Mark Ryan ‘Dead Horse’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2021 ‘Dead Horse’ is nearly all Cabernet Sauvignon (91%) with small parts Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot — all hailing from Red Mountain. Inky in the glass, this delivers heady dark currant cordial flavors alongside a smooth texture and rich boysenberry and Turkish coffee flavors. It is soft and refined, with excellent weight and length. Fantastic to savor now, enjoy this beauty over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2023-2038- 94

Beaux Frères

Today we share the world class wines of the Ribbon Ridge AVA, Beaux Frères was founded by Michael Etzel more than twenty years ago. While on vacation in 1986 Michael came across an 88 acre pig farm and after some consideration he decided to purchase the land with his brother in law, Robert Parker — and the rest became Oregon wine history. Michael focused on his job as vineyard manager by planting Pinot Noir in the Ribbon Ridge AVA and while planting his vineyard he interned at Ponzi Winery. It was all the way back in1990, that Michael harvested his first estate fruit and sold the grapes winemakers Ken Wright and Dick Ponzi. Michael came to see that there was something exceptional about fruit from his vineyard and began making focused, mineral-driven Pinot Noirs from this special site. The wines were subsequently reviewed with incredible acclaim. I love these wines as they embody such beautiful purity of fruit. The wines cellar incredibly well as I have had the chance to taste these back 20 years and it is just remarkable how well they perform with some cellaring.

The 2021 Beaux Frères ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) is a total knockout wine that made its way on my 2023 Top 100. This is elegant, concentrated Pinot noir that has a long life ahead of it. Even better is the thrilling 2021 Beaux Freres ‘The Beaux Freres Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 98) which is one of the finest Oregon wines I have tasted in this last year. Quite literally a slumbering giant,  this has world-class richness, verve and texture. Learn more about this famed winery at beauxfreres.com and here is my review of the new Beaux Freres wines.

2021 Beaux Frères ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay- The stunning 2021 Beaux Frères ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay comes from two early ripening sites on Parrett Mountain, Star Mooring and Doration. Showing a rich, golden hue in the glass, toasted hazelnuts with ripe cantaloupe, Japanese pear and salty soils with ripe peach all mark the nose. The palate is silky smooth and inviting with a seamless sense of texture. The richness here is really stunning, as the underlying finesse and structure melds well with the rich orchard and citrus fruit flavors. Enjoy now and over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2024-2035- 95

2021 Beaux Frères ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The elegant, seamless and captivating 2021 ‘Willmette Valley’ Pinot Noir is another stunning edition of this wine by Beaux Freres. Once on the nose the class red rose petal character shines through alongside cigar box, red currants and shades of orange peel. Lithe and polished, with a silky mouthfeel, this shows a great combination of nerve and weight. This is quite primary on the palate right now but will gain considerably complexity while this ages gracefully over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2038- 95

2021 Beaux Frères ‘Sequitur Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 Beaux Frères ‘Sequitur Vineyard’ comes from this site that was planted back in 2012 by Carey Critchlow and Michael Etzel. This 12 acre location is planted to 17 separate Pinot Noir clones. Very dark in the glass, this offers potpourri and red rose petal notes on the nose alongside freshly tilled loamy soils, tobacco leaf, and boysenberry puree. Pillowy and soft with tremendous concentration and verve, this is a dazzling, rich wine that is already drinking beautifully at the three year mark. This will easily be a 20 year wine. Drink 2024-2044- 97

2021 Beaux Frères ‘The Beaux Freres Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Another wine with serious aging potential, the fabulous and flamboyant 2021 Beaux Frères ‘The Beaux Freres Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a totally stunning wine from this warm vintage. Also very dark in the glass, this reveals rich wild blackberry and black cherry notes on the nose with stony soils, cigar box and shades of milk chocolate. The palate is plush as silky tannins frame this gorgeous core of black fruit flavors alongside crushed mint, cardamom dusted red raspberry and rich fig notes. Big and bold, this has incredible richness yet comes across weightless on the mid-palate. Give this an hour of air if enjoying now, as this beauty will live on for easily another twenty years to come. This is one of the great wines of Oregon that I’ve had the pleasure of tasting in the past year. Drink 2025-2045- 98