It was a smoke filled voyage down to Medford during our dive into Southern Oregon wines. A region that continues to build momentum, Southern Oregon is divided into two sub AVAs, the Rogue Valley AVA and the Umpqua Valley AVA. Within each sub-AVA there is an exceedingly large range of microclimates where vineyards only a few minutes from each other can have remarkable changes in daytime and nighttime temperatures and soil types. There is essentially no typical soil type in the region, which ranges from red clay to blue clay to gravel and sand. Diurnal shifts in this region can be quite extreme. While some vineyards lie only 60-70 miles from the coast, the rainfall in this large AVA varies quite considerably which impacts the vineyards. Klamath Falls has only nine inches of rain each year, while closer to the coast has 109 inches of rain each year.
There are over 30 different varietals grown here which is quite remarkable. The range of wines is quite astonishing as everything from Pinot Noir to Chardonnay to Syrah is planted. I found that the wines showed a great amount of heterogeneity in terms of quality and flavor/aromatic profiles. For instance, the Syrahs typically did not seem particularly similar in terms of aromatic and flavor profiles. Pinot Noir grown in this region tends to be a bit less structured, offering ripe fruits and wines that are sometimes out of balance. The concern is that when these wines are made with less acidity, they become a bit simplistic and reductive. Similarly, I noticed concerns with having fresh acidity in the wines, yet having the wines hollow out in the mid-palate. That was a theme with many of the thicker skinned red grape varietals in this region — while some wines might have been some good acidity, many of the those wines were lacking in mid-palate richness.
In terms of producers, standing tall is Abacela, who produces an outstanding Rose, their 2017 Abacela Rose (WWB, 90) which is one of the top wines that I sampled from this region, showing wonderful tension and bright red fruits. Look to the 2014 Abacela ‘Reserve’ Tempranillo (WWB, 91) the best wine I have sampled from this region, which shows wonderful viscosity and tension, with dark fruit and earthy tones. Another standout Tempranillo was the 2015 Reustle ‘Reserve’ Tempranillo (WWB, 90) which has wonderful richness and good acidity which makes it difficult to resist right now. Look to Ryan Rose, a Southern Oregon winery that produces an excellent Cabernet Franc wine, the 2015 Ryan Rose Cabernet Franc (WWB, 90) which shows a wonderful rich mouthfeel and deep dark fruit flavors. One of the more intriguing wines that I tried, the 2012 Dancin Vineyards Port (WWB, 90) is made from Pinot Noir grapes and yields copious dark and red fruits with wonderful mouth-watering acidity. Here is a sampling of the recent red and white wines out of Southern Oregon.
Augustino Estate
2015 Augustio Estate ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay- The Augustino Estate was started 18 years ago. The wine was aged in neutral oak for 24 months prior to bottling. This begins with aromas of bright pear and starfruit with a touch of white peach. The palate shows good weight and texture with pear, vanilla cream and a lingering cream driven finish. Drink 2018-2024- 89
2014 Augustino Estate ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Illini Valley, this wine was aged for 24 months in natural oak prior to bottling. Vines for this wine are set on gravel. This shows prune and candied red fruit on the nose. Copious red fruits mark the palate with laugher citrus tones. Drink 2018-2024- 89
Abacela
2017 Abacela Albarino- Goosberry and unripe melon mark the nose with light green apple tones. The palate shows green apple, kumquat and bright acidity, leading to the acid driven finish. Drink 2018-2022- 89
2017 Abacela Rose- Made from Grenache grapes this has watermelon and starfruit that mark the nose. The palate shows a good minerality with a good texture. Mouth watering acidity and red fruits drive the palate. This is extremely refreshing. Drink 2018-2022- 90
2015 Abacela ‘Fiesta’ Tempranillo- Toasty oak and red fruits dominate the nose. There is a soft mouthfeel with blackberry cobbler, mocha and crushed mint flavors that sit alongside some good minerality. Drink 2018-2022- 89
2014 Abacela ‘Reserve’ Tempranillo- Showing a darker hue than the ‘Fiesta’ bottling, this wine begins with lovely herbal and smoky overtones on the nose with dill pickle. The palate has a wonderful motuhfeel, showcasing black tea, blueberry compote, blackberry pie and dark chocolate shavings. Deep and seductive, this is an outstanding effort by Abacela. Drink 2018-2024- 91
Belle Fiore
2017 Belle Fiore Sauvignon Blanc- Right away you notice the citrus elements on the nose with gooseberry and ripe melon. The palate shows good astringency with green apple, kiwi and kumquat flavors that nicely combine. Drink 2018-2022- 86
2016 Belle Fiore ‘Icon’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Ashland area this was aged in 50% new French oak prior to bottling. This begins with aromas reminiscent of black tea and black cherry comoote. The palate mimics the nose with black fruits playing a strong role. This has good weight. Drink 2018-2024- 86
Cooper Ridge
2015 Cooper Ridge Tempranillo- This wine was aged for 23 months in French, American and Hungarian oak prior to bottling. Three is a touch of Merlot and Syrah blended in. The wine starts off with bright aromas of toasty oak and red fruits with a touch of smoke. The palate shows good astringency and texture with red cherry candy, guava, smoke and tobacco leaf flavors that sit alongside some moderate tannins.This is an excellent effort. Drink 2018-2024- 90
2015 Cooper Ridge ‘Reserve’ Tempranillo- The wine is sourced from rather fertile soils on the north part of the Umpqua Valley. This begins with a darker fruit profile than the entry level bottling. This Tempranillo shows a silky texture with moderate tannins and dark fruits with roasted figs. Drink 2018-2024- 90
Dancin Vineyards
2017 Dancin Vineyards ‘Capriccio’ Chardonnay- This wine isa blend of Robert Young 17, Dijon 76 and Went 72 clones which was aged in largely neutral oak prior to bottling. This shows toasty brioche and Pink Lady apple on the nose. The palate shows a nice rich mouthfeel with orange blossom, Gala apple and vanilla cream flavors that sit alongside some good minerality. Drink 2012-2022- 89
2016 Dancin Vineyards Barbera- The nose is reminiscent of blue fruits with a touch of smoke. The palate shows good acidity and bright red fruits with lighter citrus under tones. Drink 2018-2024- 89
2016 Dancin Vineyards ‘Septette’ Pinot Noir- This wine wasted in 29%new French oak for 11 months prior to bottling. Showing a nice translucence this begins with forest floor, wild mushroom and dark raspberry aromatics. The palate is a bit lean showing light to medium bodied red and dark fruits with lighter earthy undertones. Drink 2018-2024- 89
2012 Dancin Vineyards Pinot Noir Port- This wine saw extended barrel age after the neutral spirit was added. Smoky and stewed fruit tones dominate the nose. The palate shows good balance and acidity with a nice combination of dark and red fruits with toffee and cigar ash.Drink 2018-2024- 90
Del Rio Vineyards
2017 Del Rio Vineyards Rose- Made from Grenache grapes, this shows a good acidity with gentle red fruits and a touch of citrus on the palate. This is well-made and comes in a touch sweet towards the back end. Drink 2018-2022- 87
2015 Del Rio Vineyards Syrah- This 100% Syrah bottling shows off an inky color and begins with aromas of smoke and blue fruit on the nose. The palate shows nice blue fruit and good dusty terroir. This forward style Syrah is best enjoyed in the next five to seven years. Drink 2018-2024- 89
Delfino
2017 Delfino Rose- The nose is delicate with white peach and red fruits. This Tempranillo wine shows good astringency and grip on the mid-palate with light red cherry, strawberry and guava flavors. Drink 2018-2022- 89
2016 Delfino Tempranillo- This shows a deep hue with nice red fruits and smoky accents with pork shoulder and sweet pipe tobacco. Weighing in at 14% alcohol this shows a nice viscosity as this forward wine showcases copious dark fruits with milk chcolate. Drink 2018-2024- 88
Giradet
2012 Giradet Tempranillo- The wine was aged for 9 months in barrel. The wine is sourced from Abacela Tempranillo starts that were planted in the 1990s. Smoke, blueberry compote and black tea with Asian spice mark the nose. The earthy tones and acidity guides this wine. Black tea, blackberry cobbler and crushed mint flavors show good range, as the wine finishes with a nice comnbiatinon of minerality and dark fruits. Drink 2018-2024- 90
2013 Giradet Tempranillo- Aged for 30 months in largely neutral French oak, this wine is sourced from vines set on gravely loam soils. The nose takes on more oaky character with mulberry and wild blackberry aromas. The mouthfeel has wonderful softness as the wine reveals black tea, blackberry and coffee ground flavors. While light tannins finish off this wine, it can be cellared for the next five plus years. Drink 2018-2024- 90
Jaxson
2017 Jaxson Viognier- This Rogue River Valley Viognier begins with aromas of tropical fruits with kiwi and lighter melon tones. The palate shows good mid-palate richness with vanilla cream, oranger zest and roasted pineapple that comes in a touch cloying on the mid-palate. Drink 2018-2022- 87
2013 Jaxson Tempranillo- The wine shows some over-ripe red fruits on the nose with earthy and oaky tones. Medium to full bodied, the wine shows gobs of ripe fruits on the palate. Drink 2018-2024- 86
Ledger David
2017 Ledger David Rose- Made from Sangiovese grapes, this begins with lighter aromas of red fruits with a touch of citrus. The palate shows good astringency but the wine struggles with some balance. Drink 2018-2020- 86
2015 Ledger David Cabernet Franc- This deep colored wine begins with aromas of green bell pepper, blackberry compote and black tea. The palate shows. Good acidity and a smooth mouthfeel, revealing dark fruits with a touch of dried herbs and chocolate. This shows good acidity and weight. Drink 2018-2024- 88
Plaisance Ranch
2015 Plaisance Ranch Mourvedre- This begins with aromas of rose water, smoke and black fruits. The palate shows good acidity and elegance with bright red fruits and a touch of smoke. This is a bit lean through the middle but the bright acidity really drives this wine. Drink 2018-2022- 88
2015 Plaisance Ranch Mondeuse- The varietal from Savoire in France, and is in the Syrah family. Dark in the glass, this begins with aromas of smoke and prune that are quite primary. The palate shows bright acidity and medium weight with light tannins towards the back end. Drink 2018-2024- 88
2015 Plaisance Ranch Carmenere- This wine was a challenge for the winemaker to grow properly. This starts off with lighter spicebox aromas with red fruits and an herbal edge. Light to medium bodied, this shows good astringency and tension with dark fruits and a touch of chocolate flavors. Drink 2018-2024- 88
Quady North
2017 Quady North Rose- The Rose is largely Grenache and Syrah, as the wine starts off with aromas of white peach and delicate red fruits on the nose. The palate shows very delicate red fruit flavors with a touch of orange zest. Drink 2018-2020- 85
2017 Quady North ‘Pistoletta’ White Wine- Largely Viognier and Grenache Blanc, this starts off with aromas of citrus blossom and unripe melon. There are delicate tree fruit flavors with a touch of gooseberry. I would prefer a bit more acidity here. Drink 2018-2020- 85
2015 Quady North ‘GSM’ Red Wine- The wine is a blend of 43% Mourvedre with 31% Grenache and 26% Syrah. The wine begins with aromas of smoke and blue fruit with wild blackberry on the nose. The palate shows good acidity and the wine reveals red fruits on the palate with a touch of smoke. Drink 2018-2022- 88
Reustle
2016 Reustle Grenache- This dark colored Grenache has red fruits and rose petals on the nose. The palate shows medium weight with red fruits and prune coming out hot right away. Drink 2018-20922- 88
2015 Reustle Tempranillo- Coming from a warm vintage this wine was aged in both French and American oak prior to bottling. The toasty oak elements are showing nicely with a good combination of red and dark fruits intermingling. The palate shows good tension and viscosity with a really nice mouthfeel. Drink 2018-2024- 89
2015 Reustle ‘Reserve’ Tempranillo- The nose is even more perfumed than the entry level Tempranillo bottling. Prune, toasty oak and black fruits with milk chocolate come together in the lass aromatically. The wine shows a good tension and weigh on the mid-palate with black tea, blackberry pie and mocha flavors that show marvelously. Moderately tannic now, this will cellar well for the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 90
Ryan Rose
2016 Ryan Rose Chardonnay- Sourced from the Chehalem Mountain Vineyard in the Willamette Valley, the wine was aged for 11 months in a combination of new and used oak prior bottling. this starts off with aromas of brioche, roasted hazelnut and vanilla cream. The palate shows nice mid-palate weight. The wine yields bright banana, creme brûlée and vanilla cream flavors. Drink 2018-2024- 90
2015 Ryan Rose Cabernet Franc- Sourced from the Sarah Vineyard in the Applegate Valley the wine was aged in 50% new French oak for 20 months prior to bottling. Dark fruits dominate the nose with lighter damp earth and cigar ash tones coming in. The palate shows good richness and intensity with blackberry jam, cigar box, and blueberry compote. This shows pretty bright acidity considering the obvious heat of the vintage. Drink 2018-2024- 90
Schultz
2016 Schultz ‘Homeward’ Chardonnay- This wine is founded by two Louisiana natives who first planted a small vineyard in the Rogue Valley in 2010. The wine saw native yeast fermentation and was aged in natural oak prior to bottling. This starts off with aromas of pineapple, vanilla creme brûlée and apricot. The palate shows a good tenson and mid-palate weight with vanilla bean, Meyer lemon creme bruulee and Brandy soaked pear flavors. This will cellar well for the next five plus years. Drink 2018-2024- 89
2014 Schultz Merlot- This Applegate Valley AVA wine opens with a bouquet of red cherry, tomato leaf and red bell pepper. The palate shows good poise and medium weight. There is a really nice sense of place and balance to this wine. Drink 2018-2024- 88
Schmidt Family Vineyards
2016 Schmidt Family Vineyards Viognier- This was aged for roughly four months in stainless steel. The wine begins with aromas of gardenia and lychee with roasted pineapple. The palate shows nice brightness with banana, lychee and creme brûlée. Drink 2018-2022- 88
2014 Schmidt Family Syrah- This comes off with lighter smoky and earthy tones with red cherry on the nose. The palate shows good balance as this medium weight wine shows a nice combination of red cherry, wild blackberry and huckleberry. Drink 2018-2022- 88
South Stage
2014 South Stage Pinotage- The nose takes on pruny character with stewed strawberry and figs. The acidity and weight of the wine is really nice, as the wine moves into forward red fruits, particularly guava and strawberry shining the most brightly. Drink 2018-2022- 88
2013 South Stage Cabernet Franc- Dark fruits dominate the nose with lighter earthy aromatics coming in. The palate shows medium concentration with some ripeness issues. Drink 2018-2022- 87
Triple Oak
2015 Triple Oak Tempranillo- This wine, sourced from Tempranillo clone 5, was aged for 12 months in French oak prior to bottling. Oaky on the nose with lighter red fruits, the palate delivers a nice richness and intensity, showing off red fruits that dance with dark fruits and a touch of mill chocolate. Drink 2018-2024- 89
Troon Vineyard
2017 Troon Vineyard ‘Kubli Bench Blanc’ White Wine- This is a blend of Marsanne and Viognier. The wine shows some nice lychee and exotic fruit. The palate shows a good astringency with tree fruits and a touch of bitterness towards the back end. Drink 2018-2022- 88
2017 Troon Vineyard Riesling- This orange wine, sourced from 17 year old Riesling vines, starts off with aromas of gardenia, white peach and white rose. The palate. Shows good weight and astringency revealing a nice combination of tree fruits and citrus rind. Drink 2018-2022- 88
2016 Troon Vineyard ‘Cuvee Cot’ Malbec- The wine has a small amount of Tannat blended in. The wine was aged for 15 months in used oak prior to bottling. Smoke and blue fruits mark the nose with lighter earthy tones. The palate has bight acidity but is quite hollow through the middle. Drink 2018-2022- 87
Warwick
2015 Warwick ‘Reserve’ White Wine- This is a blend of Chardonnay and Viognier which was occasionally stirred the lees. The wine was not racked for one year. The wine shows lychee and apple aromas on the nose. The palate shows a nice mouthfeel and a soft texture. Lychee, lemon creme brûlée and Pink Lady apple flavors mingle with some good acidity. Drink 2018-2022- 89
Weisinger
2015 Weisinger Gewurtztraminer- Weighing in at 7g/l residual, this shows nectarine and Pink Lady apple aromatics once in the glass. The palate has a touch of sweetness but needs acidity to drive through. Drink 2018-2022- 85
2017 Weisinger Sauvignon Blanc- Aged on the lees in neutral oak (60%, the remainder stainless) this begins with toasty oak and tree fruit aromas that build in the glass. The palate shows some delicate tree fruit flavors with a light astringency. Drink 2018-2022- 87
2015 Weisinger Tempranillo- You are greeted with a whiff of American oak on the nose with lighter red fruits. The palate shows good texture but lacks fruit in the mid-palate. Drink 2018-2022- 86
Woolridge Creek
2014 Woolridge Creek Tempranillo- The wine was aged in natural French oak for 18 months (no American oak) prior to bottling. This shows nice smoky and earthy tones on the nose with lighter red fruits. The palate is lithe showing good acidity and intriguing blue fruit undertones on the palate. This finishes with some light tannins. Drink 2018-2022- 88