As temperatures start to drop and football blares in the backgrounds, fall means a shift from white wine and rose to reds. Merlot is experiencing a solid comeback post-Sideways. It was 2004 and I was sitting at a great restaurant in Seattle when my father ordered a 2000 Leonetti Merlot. As a graduate student I was slowly advancing my wine education and I was struck by the pillowy texture of this incredible wine. I won’t soon forget that seminal moment of exploring top notch Washington Merlot.
This report highlights some of the great Merlot wines produced in Washington. Merlot is one of the great varietals that the state produces and it can certainly be argued that Merlot is what Washington does best. For me, I think the AVAs produce quite divergent wines. Merlot from Yakima Valley is typically higher-toned with bright red cherry tones, lacking the black, even blue fruit that you can see on Red Mountain and certainly lacking the scorched earth, tar or even creosote tones.
Over the past year I have had the chance to taste some of the greats from Washington. I adore the 2016 Long Shadows ‘Pedestal’ Merlot (OB, 96) which is dense, layered and has massive cellaring potential. One of the great Leonetti Merlots that I have tried, the 2018 Leonetti Merlot (OB, 95) is really just an infant now and needs a few more years of bottle age. Conversely the 2017 Abeja ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot (OB, 94) is silky and expressive right out of the gate, showing great structure, mid-palate weight and smooth tannins. I both the 2015 Andrew Will ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine (OB, 94) and the 2017 Avennia ‘Valery’ Red Wine (OB, 94) for different reasons, the Andrew Will being inky brooding and more non-fruit note driven and the Avennia being quite pretty and floral with deep tones coming into play mid-palate. Also don’t miss on outrageously good new Merlots by Doubleback (OB, 94) and Passing Time (OB, 94) with NFL legends connecting with superstar winemakers on both projects.
The pandemic has brought plenty of stress and confusion but based on the quality of Merlot wines that Washington currently offers, you can be sure to have a great glass as we move into cooler temperatures and socially distance at home.
A’MAURICE CELLARS
2017 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Night Owl’ Red Wine- The a’Maurice 2017 Night Owl is a blend of 56% Merlot with 21% Cabernet Franc, 16% Petit Verdot and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon. The herbal, red bell pepper and deep, concentrated dark fruits from the Petit Verdot really make this blend work, as softer layers of chocolate and black cherry cordial from the Merlot also add to the enjoyment. These working pieces are moving hand in hand. If enjoying in its youth, give the 2017 ‘Night Owl; a long decant. Drink 2020-2035- 93
ABEJA
2017 Abeja ‘Columbia Valley' Merlot- Sourced from a host of great vineyards this wine was aged in 48% new oak for nineteen months prior to bottling in May 2019. The tones of red bell pepper and milk chocolate covered Bing cherry sing with tobacco and sandalwood accents on this fantastic nose. The palate is silky smooth and remarkably textured, as this seamless wine effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Layers of red and dark fruits combine with coffee grounds and chocolate tones with sagebrush accents on the palate. Gorgeous to enjoy in its youth, the 2017 ‘Columbia Valley' Merlot is a spectacular wine by a very talented winemaking team at Abeja. Be sure to give this a one hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2020-2035- 94
ANDREW WILL
2015 Andrew Will ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine- One of the famed sites in Washington, the Ciel du Cheval Vineyard is located in the Red Mountain AVA. A blend of mainly Merlot (63%) with 37% Cabernet Franc, this shows layers of blackberries and black currants that dance with suggestions of dark chocolate shavings and sagebrush that all take shape in the glass. The palate is soft, round and generous, showing gorgeous creme de cassis, mocha, tar and blackberry cobbler flavors, alongside a bright sense of minerality. This is seriously good considering the heat spikes incurred at this location in 2015. Simply put, the wine is downright awesome now and will evolve well for another ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2035- 94
AVENNIA
2017 Avennia ‘Valery’ Red Wine- A gorgeous Right Bank style blend of 86% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Franc, the 2017 ‘Valery’ opens with a highly perfumed bouquet of red currants and Black Forest Cake with a light dusting of white pepper and espresso bean that all come together in the glass. The palate is not only silky smooth but shows great elegance, finesse and viscosity. The weight of the wine really provides a layer of hedonistic enjoyment as bright Bing cherry and mocha flavors come together with shades of sandalwood, exotic spices and black tea on the palate. Fresh and vibrant, yet having great richness, this beautiful wine will enjoy a long life ahead of it. Try to give this a two hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2020-2038- 94
BAER WINERY
2016 Baer ‘Star’ Merlot- This great 100% Merlot wine was entirely sourced from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard. Not really needing a decant at tall, the ‘Star; is soft, round and generous, as the Merlot yields a silky, pillowy mouthfeel that entices. A light dusting of salinity falls upon a deep core of red fruits with milk chocolate and sagebrush undertones. Outstanding in its youth, the highly elegant 2016 ‘Star’ will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2032- 93
BETZ FAMILY WINERY
2018 Betz Family Winery ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Clos de Betz’ is a compelling blend of 55% Merlot with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and the remainder Petit Verdot. The wine shows nice herbal tones on the nose with the core of dark fruits, coffee grounds and chocolate. The texture is soft and seamless with bright acidity that really entices. Layers of dark fruits and Turkish coffee line the palate, with marvelous length and a great feeling of tension. This is seriously good for the price. Drink 2020-2033- 93
DAMA WINES
2017 DAMA Wines Merlot- The 2017 DAMA Wines Merlot was sourced from the esteemed ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ in the Walla Walla Valley. The nose is classic Walla Walla Merlot with its sagebrush and red currant tones that mingle with ripe blackberry and coffee ground tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate has a kiss of sweetness that connects with copious minerals and ripe red and dark fruits, with tobacco leaf and milk chocolate undertones. This is seriously good now, as the 2017 DAMA Wines Merlot will provide drinking enjoyment for the next decade or more. Drink 2020-2030- 91
DELILLE CELLARS
2017 DeLille Cellars ‘D2’ Red Wine- The awesome 2017 ‘D2’ delivers copious red and dark fruits with chocolate and sagebrush tones on the palate. Plush texturally and full-bodied, this shows even more opulence and mouthfeel after an hour of air. Great to enjoy right now, this outstanding effort will be best enjoyed over the next eight years. Drink 2020-2028- 92
DOUBLEBACK
2018 Doubleback Merlot- This is the inaugural vintage of this wine that adds a layer of spice to the beautiful Doubleback lineup. Needing an hour decant to fully evolve, once aroused this shows layers of cassis and mocha, with tar and underbrush on this beautiful nose. The palate is dense, plush and polished, with a great sense of viscosity and acidity. Layers of blackberries and tar are woven together with sagebrush, dark chocolate shavings and graphite flavors. Intense and rich, with a Pomerol like balance, this great new Merlot will enjoy a long life ahead of it. Try to resist this beautiful wine for another year or so. Drink 2021-2038- 94
DUNHAM CELLARS
2016 Dunham Cellars Merlot- Sourced from the Walla Walla Valley, the 2016 Merlot is a wine club only wine that has beautiful, silky tannins. Layers of blackberry compote and black cherry cordial combine with shades of milk chocolate and coffee grounds. This is seriously good stuff that has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2032- 92
EFESTĒ
2018 EFESTĒ ‘Upright’ Merlot- The ‘Upright’ Merlot was sourced from the ‘Taylor Mag Vineyard’ on Red Mountain. Once on the nose this takes on ripe red cherry cordial, woven together with creosote, coffee grounds and shades of milk chocolate that all take shape in the glass. The palate is dense and chewy with gorgeous red and dark fruits with dark chocolate shavings, mocha and creosote tones. Delicious to savor right now in its glorious youth, this beautiful Merlot has at least another decade ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 93
GRAMERCY CELLARS
2017 Gramercy Cellars ‘Gramercy Estate’ Red Wine- This is the second edition of this wine which was sourced from mostly the JB George Vineyard as well as the Octave Vineyard. Aged for twenty two months in 40% new French oak, the nose leads with toasty oak that gently wraps around blackberry compote, coffee grounds, graphite and dark currants. The palate is silky smooth, giving off an err of opulence with its wonderfully plush texture. The length of the wine really entices, finishing exceedingly long with black fruits, sagebrush and minerals. A long ager, this has another fifteen years or more ahead of it. Drink 2020-2035- 93
KONTOS CELLARS
2017 Kontos Cellars Merlot- The nose is quite decadent with ripe dark currants that mingle with cigar box, red cherry cordial and shades of black tea and exotic spices on this great bouquet. The palate has a soft mouthfeel and great length with rich dark fruits that mingle with minerals and smoky undertones. This is sturdy Merlot that should cellar well for another ten plus years. Drink 2020-2030- 92
L’ECOLE NO. 41
2017 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Merlot- The 2017 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Merlot is sourced in equal parts from the Seven Hills Vineyard and Ferguson Vineyard. Needing an hour in the decanter to be fully aroused, once awoken you experience dark currants and sandalwood aromatics, woven together with with shades of milk chocolate and roasted figs. The palate is fresh and vibrant with intense tannins that collide with the core of dark fruits, espresso bean and violets on the palate. With incredible tension and solid viscosity, this sturdy Merlot will enjoy a long life in the cellar. Drink 2022-2035- 93
LEONETTI CELLAR
2018 Leonetti Cellar Merlot- This outstanding 100% Merlot was largely sourced from the Loess Vineyard (66%) with smaller portions from the Mill Creek Upland and their 40-year-old original block at the Leonetti winery. Needing a two hour decant to fully open, the 2018 Leonetti Merlot slowly unveils layers of toasty oak that are woven together with black cherry cordial, sagebrush and milk chocolate tones that all come together in the glass. The silky texture truly impresses, as the wine effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Cocoa powder dusted red cherries greet you, while flavors of underbrush, damp earth and espresso bean all enliven the senses. A complete wine, the 2018 Leonetti Cellar Merlot will enjoy a long life in the cellar. Try to resist this stunning new wine for at least another two years. Drink 2022-2040- 95
LONG SHADOWS
2016 Long Shadows ‘Pedestal’ Red Wine- The 2016 ‘Pedestal’ is a monumental effort from this famed Walla Walla house. A blend of 75% Merlot with 21% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot, this was aged in 85% new French oak barrels for 22 months before bottling. The nose is hedonistic and gratifying with layers of toasty oak that wrap around the core of kirsch cordial, chocolate covered espresso bean and tobacco leaf tones that all meld in the glass. The mouthfeel is both pillowy and voluptuous as this effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Chocolate covered cherries, pipe tobacco and Turkish coffee flavors mingle with garrigue and creosote undertones on this complex palate. The generous length adds to the enjoyment. While enchanting to savor in its youth, the 2016 Long Shadows ‘Pedestal’ has another two decades of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2038- 96
MARK RYAN
2018 Mark Ryan ‘Little Sister’ Merlot- Entirely sourced from Red Mountain, this beautiful new wine shows ripe red cherry dusted with cocoa powder and shades of black tea, anise and sagebrush tones that all mingle together. The palate is vibrant showing great weight and freshness. Layers of ripe dark fruits meld with chocolate, sagebrush and earthy undertones of the wine. Ripe and downright delicious to savor in its youth, this beautiful wine has another decade or more of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 93
MATTHEWS
2017 Matthews ‘Reserve’ Merlot- The 2017 Matthews ‘Reserve’ Merlot shows off its deep hue in the glass, delivering Black Forest Cake and sagebrush tones that combine with black licorice and graphite tones that all meld in the glass. The palate is silky smooth, showing a great sense of freshness and verve. Medium to full-bodied dark fruits mingle with minerals, sagebrush, coffee grounds and chocolate tones alongside fine grained tannins on the palate. This has a long way to go. Drink 2020-2035- 93
NORTHSTAR
2016 Northstar ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot- I’ve been enjoying this bottling since the 2002 vintage and the 2016 edition by the talented David Merfeld really impresses with its silky texture, polished tannins and depth.This edition has a whopping 24% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. Coming off soft, round and generous, a light dusting of salinity falls on the core of red and dark fruits with shades of garrigue, tar and mocha that meld together on the palate. Complex and delicious to enjoy in its youth, this has some nice potential for the cellar. Drink 2020-2032- 92
PASSING TIME
2018 Passing Time ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Merlot- The 2018 Passing Time ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Merlot beautifully showcases this outstanding site and vintage. Once on the nose the bouquet of ripe chocolate covered dark kirsch tones combining with sandalwood, sagebrush and hints of cassis all meld seamlessly in the glass. Once on the mouth there is a sensational purity of fruit and sense of elegance, as this effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Deep dark fruits are woven together with tobacco leaf, dark currants and graphite tones on the palate. Fantastic now, the 2018 ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Merlot will provide drinking enjoyment for decades to come. Drink 2020-2036- 94
PEPPER BRIDGE
2016 Pepper Bridge Merlot- The 2016 Pepper Bridge Merlot was largely sourced from the Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge Vineyards as well as the Octave Vineyard. Aged in 58% new French oak before bottling, this opens with ripe red fruits that dance with shades of clove, and milk chocolate that all mingle in the glass. The palate has good freshness and density with plush red and dark fruits that mingle with the bright sense of minerality. Delightful now and showing good restraint considering the heat of the vintage, the 2016 Pepper Bridge Merlot will cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2035- 92
SEVEN HILLS
2017 Seven Hills ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Merlot- The 2017 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Merlot shows rich layers of toasty oak that wrap around a deep core of dark fruits and chocolate that all take shape in the glass. Medium to full-bodied blackberry and sagebrush flavors collide with minerals and suggestions of mocha. This is really good in its youth and will evolve well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2029- 91
SLEIGHT OF HAND
2016 Sleight of Hand ‘The Archimage Reserve’ Red Wine- The ‘Archimage Reserve’ is a gorgeous blend of Cabernet Franc (50%) and Merlot (47%) with just a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon. Toasty oak wraps around a deep core of dark fruits on the nose. The soft texture is seriously good as deep chocolate covered dark cherry and mocha flavors meld with the tar and sagebrush undertones. Delightful in its youth, this will provide drinking enjoyment for the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2019-2032- 93
SPRING VALLEY
2016 Spring Valley ‘Uriah’ Red Wine- The ‘Uriah’ is named after Uriah Corkrum who was born in Walla Walla on June 1, 1866, and began successfully farming on his own during the 1880s. The wine is a fantastic blend of 59% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot, 1% Malbec that was aged in 100% French oak (25% new) prior to bottling. The red bell pepper and sagebrush tones entice and meld with the shades of black licorice, exotic spices and deep dark fruits that all collide in the glass. The palate shows a soft texture ands silky mouthfeel, delivering rich dark fruits with milk chocolate covered espresso bean and herbal undertones. Wonderful in its youth, the ‘Uriah’ will provide drinking enjoyment for the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2020-2035- 94
UPCHURCH VINEYARD
2016 Upchurch Vineyard ‘Counterpart’ Red Wine- A compelling blend of 65% Merlot with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon, the ‘Counterpart’ opens with a bouquet of toasty oak with red bell pepper, red cherry preserves and shades of mocha aromas that fill the glass. Silky smooth on the mouth, the wine shows really good elegance. Black and red fruit flavors dance with a great sense of minerality. A long-ager, this will continue to evolve for the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2019-2033- 93
WOODWARD CANYON
2018 Woodward Canyon ‘Estate’ Merlot- Sourced from both an older (23 year old) and newer block, the Merlot shows black cherry and black currants that mingle with Asian spices and pipe tobacco on the nose. The palate is soft, round and generous with a silky mouthfeel. Layers of kirsch cordial and allspice connect with chocolate and black plum on the palate. Downright delicious even at this juncture, this beautiful wine has at least another decade of aging to go. Drink 2020-2032- 92