It is not everyday that you take a ferry to visit one of the state’s top wineries. Yesterday I hopped aboard a ferry departing for Vashon Island to visit with one of Washington’s great winemaking talents. Andrew Will is one of Washington’s historic houses founded by Chris Carmada in 1989 that has consistently produced wines that stand the test of time. I’ve tasted several Andrew Will wines blind that were more than twenty years old and I incorrectly guessed that they were more in the ten year range in terms of aging. These are wines that are sensational when they are released but they have consistently good cellaring potential.
Andrew Will was named his winery for Chris’s nephew Andrew and son Will, who now serves as head winemaker. Andrew Will is located on Vashon Island not far from Seattle. Chris started his winery by sourcing from two great vineyards in Washington, the Champoux and Ciel du Cheval Vineyards. Today they source all of their grapes from their Two Blondes Vineyard as well as those two historic vineyards.
It has been a pleasure getting to know Will Carmada who is great winemaker just like his father. Intelligent and down to earth Will is making some world class wines. Will loves wine as a study, constantly learning about new wines of the world and actively involved in his tasting groups.
Will has crafted a beautiful Bordeaux style white wine, his 2019 Andrew Will ‘Cuvee Lucia’ White Wine (OB, 93) which is amongst the best of its kind in the state with its aromatic and flavor range as well as poise and seamless texture. I am crazy for the 2016 Andrew Will ‘Two Blondes Vineyard’ Red Wine (OB, 95) which is soft, round and shows very pretty red fruits with light tannins. This wine has massive aging potential, as does the majestic 2016 Andrew Will ‘Sorella’ Red Wine (OB, 96) which is amongst the best Cabernet Sauvignon wines I have tried this year. Dense and chewy, yet lithe and light on its feet, this absolute gem will cellar well for many decades — possibly 25-30 years! Learn more about these stunning wines at http://www.andrewwill.com/home/ Here are the beautiful new release wines by Andrew Will.
2019 Andrew Will ‘Cuvee Lucia’ White Wine- A sensational effort, the 2019 ‘Cuvee Lucia’ is one of the great white Bordeaux style wines made in Washington. On the nose tones of lychee and banana combine with beeswax and melon undertones on this complex bouquet. The palate has a downright awesome combination of finesse and richness. Layers of beeswax and Japanese apple combine with macadamia nut and cantaloupe all combine with minerals and brioche tones on the palate. A complete wine, this gorgeous new Bordeaux style white wine will cellar well over the next decade, picking up nutty and earthy tones as it ages gracefully. Drink 2020-2028- 93
2019 involuntary Commitment Red Wine- A blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2019 Involuntary Commitment shows rich red cherry and red raspberry tones alongside shades of creosote and milk chocolate with red bell pepper on the palate. Showing good length and persistence, with light tannins, this outstanding value will cellar well over the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2025- 91
2017 Andrew Will ‘Two Blondes Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Two Blondes Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a killer value from this warm vintage. Soft once on the mouth, this shows beautiful purity of fruit with its red cherry, red raspberry and mocha tones alongside a bright veil of tension. Salty undertones and shades of scorched earth complete this outstanding new bottling. This is very pretty Cabernet Sauvignon that serves as a great foil to the rest of the lineup and literally screams terroir. Great to enjoy in its youth, this outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well over the next decade or more. Drink 2020-2033- 93
2017 Andrew Will ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Andrew Will ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an outstanding wine from this great vintage on Red Mountain. Once on the nose this takes on layers of cassis and anise that combine with tar and blackberry compote that all take shape in the glass. The palate is plush, showing a great combination of viscosity and tension. Layers of black currants dance with mocha, tar, anise and dried sage on the palate. Sensational to enjoy now, this beautiful new Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2020-2035- 93
2016 Andrew Will ‘Two Blondes Vineyard’ Red Wine- A knockout wine, the 2016 ‘Two Blondes Vineyard’ Red Wine is a stunning blend of 60% Merlot with equal parts Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Malbec. Once on the nose this takes on cocoa powder dusted red cherry and garrigue tones that mingle with black raspberry cordial and shades of sagebrush that all dance in the glass. The palate is soft and seamless, effortlessly gliding across the drinking experience. Layers of cassis, pipe tobacco, milk chocolate, red cherry cordial and bell pepper undertones all meld in the glass. Outstanding in its youth, this fantastic new wine will cellar well for another fifteen years. Drink 2020-2035- 95
2016 Andrew Will ‘Ciel du Cheval Vineyard’ Red Wine- The 2016 ‘Ciel du Cheval Vineyard’ Red Wine is a killer right bank style blend of 57% Merlot and 43% Cabernet Franc. Turkish coffee with anise, creme de cassis and sagebrush undertones march in unison in the glass. The palate is plush, showing a silky mouthfeel and great veil of tension that runs through the core of dark currants, dark chocolate shavings, graphite, sweet pipe tobacco and coffee ground flavors. The combination of verve, richness and length is really gratifying here. Lightly tannic, this beautiful wine needs a two hour decant if enjoying in its youth and will cellar well over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2020-2035- 94
2016 Andrew Will ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Red Wine- Andrew Will has been sourcing from this famed site in the Horse Heaven Hills for decades now. A blend of 50% Merlot with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and the remainder Cabernet Franc. A whiff of creme de cassis comes on immediately with Turkish coffee, violets, anise and sagebrush tones with tar all meld in the glass. The palate is rich and decadent, with layers of anise, creme de cassis, creosote, and chocolate covered espresso bean with blueberry compote, making this not only highly complex but really novel. Lightly tannic, with a great core of finesse throughout the drinking experience, the 2016 ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Red Wine is sinfully good in its youth and will provide drinking enjoyment for another two decades to come. Give this at least two hours in the decanter if enjoying in its nascency. Drink 2020-2038- 95
2016 Andrew Will ‘Sorella’ Red Wine- Sourced from the famed ‘Champoux Vineyard’ in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, the ‘Sorella’ is a barrel selection wine made by superstar winemaker Will Carmada. Nearly all Cabernet Sauvignon (80%) with small portions Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this shows off mocha, tar, creme de cassis and shades of black cherry cordial that all meld in the glass. The palate is elegant and rich, showing a great combination of viscosity, tension and range. Dark chocolate covered espresso bean flavors with blueberry pie, anise, sagebrush and shades of fresh dark currants all meld in the glass. Complex and hedonistic yet showing a wonderful err of elegance, this classy effort will provide drinking enjoyment for decades to come. If enjoying in its youth, be sure to give this a three plus hour decant. Drink 2020-2040- 96
2017 Andrew Will ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Petit Verdot- Inky in the glass, this outstanding Petit Verdot shows anise, green bell pepper, creme de cassis and shades of tar that all mingle in the glass. Firm tannins line the core of dark fruits with espresso bean and dark chocolate shavings, with shades of blackberry cordial on the palate. Complex and delicious, this exceptional 100% Petit Verdot is one of the great wines of its kind. Give this a two hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2020-2032- 93