As part of Walla Walla Wine Month we share one of the great historic Washington wineries, Leonetti Cellar was founded by eminent winemaker Gary Figgins in 1977. At the time he was the first Washington winery to by highly acclaimed as his 1978 Cabernet Sauvignon was named top Cabernet of the year by Wine & Spirits magazine. I have been enchanted with the aging potential of these wines over the year.
I have had the pleasure to sample several older Leonetti wines and I can say that these age as well as any Washington producer. More recently I have tried their 2008 Leonetti Merlot which is really only starting to come together with its pillowy mouthfeel. This thing has more than a decade of life ahead of it. The same is true for the thrilling 2012 Leonetti Merlot which is incredibly youthful at the eight year mark. This beauty evolved magically over five plus hours, showing nice cedar and pipe tobacco tones to go alongside with its decadent dark and red fruits with a opulent texture.
I recently had the chance to review the new set of releases by Leonetti and was completely blown away with the quality in the bottle. For those who are a bit less familiar, Leonetti sources from great Walla Walla vineyards including their own Leonetti Old Block, as well as Mill Creek Upland, Loess vineyards and their Holly Roller Vineyard in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA. Their new releases were largely from the warm 2017 vintage — one that was warmer and that generally had consistent, warm weather.
I was absolutely blown away with the 2017 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese (WWB, 95) which rivals anything in North America with its silky texture and impressive range of flavors and aromatics. Even better was the scintillating 2017 Leonetti Cellar‘Reserve’ Red Wine (WWB, 98) which has amazing richness and intensity. This wine is only an infant and really needs a few more years of bottle age. Learn more about these beautiful new release wines at http://leonetticellar.com Here are the impressive new lineup of wines from Leonetti Cellar.
2017 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese- The 2017 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese is a stellar new wine that is amongst the best of its kind in North America. Chris Figgins has proclaimed that this is the best Sangiovese that he has made since the 2005 vintage and I find it hard not agree with that contention. Aged for twenty two months in a combination of new and used French oak, and oval botti, the 2017 Sangiovese needs an hour decant to fully be aroused. After some time in the decanter, the wine slowly unveils layers of sandalwood and tart cherry with sagebrush, cardamom and kumquat aromas that all meld in the glass. The palate is remarkably textured and has tremendous weight and verve. Black Forest Cake flavors take you by surprise, as earthy undertones, and citrus rind accents all round out this expressive palate. Moderately tannic, this simply sumptuous new wine has incredible aging potential and really shouldn’t be touched for at least another two years. This is quite simply a masterpiece by superstar winemaker Chris Figgins. Drink 2022-2040- 95
2018 Leonetti Cellar Merlot- This outstanding 100% Merlot was largely sourced from the Loess Vineyard (66%) with smaller portions from the Mill Creek Upland and their 40-year-old original block at the Leonetti winery. Needing a two hour decant to fully open, the 2018 Leonetti Merlot slowly unveils layers of toasty oak that are woven together with black cherry cordial, sagebrush and milk chocolate tones that all come together in the glass. The silky texture truly impresses, as the wine effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Cocoa powder dusted red cherries greet you, while flavors of underbrush, damp earth and espresso bean all enliven the senses. A complete wine, the 2018 Leonetti Cellar Merlot will enjoy a long life in the cellar. Try to resist this stunning new wine for at least another two years. Drink 2022-2040- 95
2017 Leonetti Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Leonetti Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon is a scintillating new wine from this storied Walla Walla estate. A blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 5% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot this wine was aged for twenty two months in a combination of new French oak barrels, once-filled French oak barrels, and neutral oval botti. Sourced from the Seven Hills, Loess, Holy Roller and Mill Creek Upland vineyards, the Cabernet opens with sandalwood aromatics that mingle with suggestions of dark chocolate covered espresso bean, creosote and wild blackberry cobbler that all take shape in the glass. The seamless texture is truly gorgeous, as layers of black fruits combine with dark chocolate and tar flavors, with nice silty undertones. Vibrant minerality and light tannins frame this expressive new effort. A delight to savor even at this stage, the 2017 Leonetti Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon will enjoy an exceedingly long life ahead of it. If enjoying over the next several years, be sure to give this at least a two hour decant before enjoying. Drink 2022-2040- 96
2014 Leonetti Cellar ‘Serra Pedace Vineyard’ Aglianico- Sourced from the ‘Serra Peace Vineyard’ in the Walla Walla Valley, the 2014 Leonetti Aglianico is a massive, dense beast of a wine that needs a lot of air to be tamed. Needing a two to three hour decant at this frame, the wine slowly unveils layers of coffee grounds and boysenberry preserves that mingle with Earl Grey tea and lighter cocoa powder accents that all mingle in the glass. The palate has silky tannins that line a massive core of dark fruits, sagebrush, Turkish coffee and suggestions of smoked brisket. The flavor range here is sensational. With its bright acidity and deep flavors, the 2014 Leonetti Cellar Aglianico is a truly one of a kind wine that will cellar well for decades to come. Drink 2022-2040- 95
2017 Leonetti Cellar ‘Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2017 Leonetti Cellar ‘Reserve’ Red Wine is a thrilling, dense, monster of a wine from superstar winemaker Chris Figgins. Judging only from the color and the weight of this wine, it is no surprise that there is a massive amount of Petit Verdot blended in as the wine checks in at 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Petit Verdot and 10% Malbec. Needing a two hour decant to be fully expressive, once aroused the ‘Reserve’ slowly unveils layers of dark fruits with green bell pepper, sagebrush and blueberry compote tones that all march together in the glass. The palate is dense, seamless and downright hedonistic. Medium tannins line the core of blueberry pie, mocha, Asian spices and silty undertones with a gorgeous combination of mouthfeel and tension. Truly one of a kind in the state, the 2017 Leonetti ‘Reserve’ will cellar well for decades to come. Try to resist this scintillating new release for at least two to three more years. Drink 2023-2045- 98